ss427 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Nice work! Are you planning on using a stock grand prix shifter setup? I ask because you have a Lumina/cutlass shift lever assembly which is different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 whats different? also if you know where do I mount the clutch safety switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Â only shot I have on hand of the clutch switch mounted. you should be able to see where the sound insulation is partially precut for removal in that area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 do you think I really need it though? I was just going to slice the wires together so I can bypass it but Ive heard that sometimes the idle between shifts can get screwed up by not having it there like the ecm needs to know when your releasing the load on the motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 do you think I really need it though? I was just going to slice the wires together so I can bypass it but Ive heard that sometimes the idle between shifts can get screwed up by not having it there like the ecm needs to know when your releasing the load on the motor  The ECM knows nothing of the status of that switch. The only wiring through that switch goes to the starter and the ignition switch.  See my wiring guide: (4th gray cell down) http://www.gtsdurango.net/?p=w&w=getragwiring Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ss427 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Jarek the difference is that the Lumina/Cutlass is a blade style lever in which the knob slides onto and is held in place by a T15? set screw. The GP lever is a threaded round bar which enabled Pontiac to use the universal threaded 5 speed knob from the other Pontiac models. I see now you have stuff from a Z34. Your Lumina boot will work in the Pontiac console plate, but you will only be able to put a Pontiac knob on with a Pontiac lever unit. Somebody on here might have an extra one lying around if that's the direction you want to go. Â As for the clutch switch, the safety switch is a good thing to have on there. It gives the pedal something to bottom out on. Also, with it hooked up you won't have to worry about accidentally starting the car in gear. I think the switch you are thinking of is the clutch anticipation switch, which is a plunger style and is depressed when pressure is let off the pedal. It mounts to the pedal support. I think it's supposed to keep the RPM's up in between shifts to eliminate "clutch bump" from the RPM's dropping lower than the optimal rev match speed for a particular gear. This switch might also be part of the circuitry that operates the shift light in the dash, but I don't have my FSM handy. Â Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 ok that makes sense. Im probably going to keep the z34 shifter for now because it will get my running. If I have to I can always weld a tube onto the shaft so I can change the knob. My other car has the safety switch bypassed as I dont like it. If that anticipation switch is still available I might look more into that as it looks like it might be necessary for driving. Thanks for your help. Im going to put some more pics up when the interior is pretty close to being done. I still have to glass the pod on to the a pillar and tinker more with the center consol. For some reason the front of the consol doesn't have a mounting location so it twists. It almost looks like the front of the consol used the auto shifter assembly as a mount. Â Â -Jarek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 The Shift light in the dash is supposed to just be based off engine rpms/load. Â The plunger switch under the dash on that hits the clutch pedal is for shutting off cruise control when the clutch is depressed. That's it. The only wires through that go straight into the cruise module under the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 The Shift light in the dash is supposed to just be based off engine rpms/load. Â mostly RPM and TPS, but barometric correction is also taken into account, as is coolant temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ss427 Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Sounds like you're missing the 5 speed front console bracket..number 21 in this image. Â Tony, you're right 88-91 used a two wire switch solely for cruise, but in 92 they switched to a 4-wire setup. They also came out with a service kit in 92 to correct the "clutch bump" customers were experiencing in 1991 LQ1 5 speeds. It consisted of a 4 wire plug to replace the two wire, and that is what I was thinking of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 well when i 5 speed'ed my TGP i somehow used the auto bracket to hold down the center console.. I dont remember what i did as it was 1 year ago but it does work.. maybe flipping it or turning it around i cant remember Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GutlessSupreme Posted April 14, 2010 Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Tony, you're right 88-91 used a two wire switch solely for cruise, but in 92 they switched to a 4-wire setup. They also came out with a service kit in 92 to correct the "clutch bump" customers were experiencing in 1991 LQ1 5 speeds. It consisted of a 4 wire plug to replace the two wire, and that is what I was thinking of. Â my mistake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted April 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 Cant figure out what this is too... Does anyone have any idea? Â I tried to get the best pic I could my problem is where those 2 wire connectors and that rusty bracket go.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White93z34 Posted April 28, 2010 Report Share Posted April 28, 2010 the black one for something in the ashtray?? Â and the white looks to be for the factory amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted June 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 (edited) http://s877.photobucket.com/albums/ab334/Hachi85/Radical%20Revs%201989%20Grand%20Prix%20turbo%205%20speed%20swap/ Â Edited June 15, 2010 by Mach 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Night Fury Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 HOt!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 nice! is that paint or powdercoat on the plenum and valve cover? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94GPGTP Posted June 15, 2010 Report Share Posted June 15, 2010 jarek, coming along rell well.. l like the upgrades your doing and add on's.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 (edited) thanks!  I used the metalcast paint from autozone. had to sand it down pretty fine so it gave the anodized effect.  updated photobucket with new pics of ported and polished cylinder heads  pics are not in order but show before and after port and polish Edited June 16, 2010 by Mach 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted June 16, 2010 Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 i did mine on my own a couple times, but ended up having to do it every year. so i had action powder coating off rt. 110 do mine. they did a polish and clear powdercoat. a few months later it oxidized through the powdercoat so i took it back. they did it over again and it's still bubbling through. pisses me right off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted June 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2010 huh well Im going to have to check them out. I guess we'll see how long it lasts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick Posted June 17, 2010 Report Share Posted June 17, 2010 Don't put clear over the powdercoat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
intern8tion9l Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 it was clear powdercoat. they gave me some crap about the quality of the metal. i won'tbe going back to them, total waste of $300 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Powered Posted June 18, 2010 Report Share Posted June 18, 2010 why any finish is needed over cast aluminum is beyond me. Â I thought it was supposed to be bare. but then again, didn't the quad 4 have a factory clear on the intake? I remember trying to wire wheel this one that was super corroded under the clear where moisture got under it and turned the metal white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach 5 Posted June 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2010 ok well I guess I wont go there... I havent had any problems with this paint before and for $5 and a $3 pack of sandpaper it beats the cost of powdercoating although the finish is generally nicer with the powdercoating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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