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  1. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  2. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  3. looking for the getrag 5 speed tranny for a 3.4 DOHC. Wanting to put one in my 95 olds cutty vert. My auto trans fading and really want a 5-speed
  4. I've got a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with an L67. I have cooling fans from a 2000 GTP on it; however, I'm a bit baffled about the way they operate. Both fans run on the low-speed setting. On the high speed setting, only the fan on the passenger's side runs. Is this correct? I checked the voltage on the driver's side fan motor, and it drops to 0 when on the high speed setting. It seems like both fans should run on the high speed setting to me (although I do not know the way the system works). I have had cooling problems with this thing since I put it together last August. It stays cool as long as it's not idling still for >20-30 min. I just replaced the original 3.1 radiator with a radiator with 3 additional rows (when counting vertically). The core of my original radiator was 34 rows tall, while the newly installed one was 37. The radiator shop I purchased the radiator from claims that these 3 additional rows provide the same cooling efficiency with the stock 5/8 inch core width as a radiator with the stock number of vertical rows (34) with a 1 inch core width. This new radiator did help the problem, but I would still rather have both fans running on the high speed setting. That would ameliorate it completely I think. Have you guys with stock early 2000s GTPs observed the way the fans work? Thanks, Andy
  5. I have an LQ1 out of a 92 Z34 5 speed which I will be taking to the scrap yard sometime this week. If anybody wants anything off of it let me know. Selling stuff cheap.
  6. So this door handle chromer in the Citation X-11 group on Facebook (not much further explanation needed really...) is telling me that there were 12 TGPs actually sold in Canada and they were available through 1991 instead of the GTP. Mind you, this is the same guy that says the THM-125 3 speed used in the Grand Prix was fully electronic. Also, the Corsica came with 5x115 hubs in front and 5x100 hubs in the rear. We got to talking TGPs because he bought the drivetrain from one. He lives in Canada. It's so funny that I had to share. Total door handle chromer - a person that thinks they know everything when in reality doesn't know half as much as they think they do.
  7. Must Sell Price reduced to 5500.00 OBO. Selling for what I have in it. Hi all. I am listing this to see if there is any interest. It's a 1991 Grand Prix GTP with 5 speed manual transmission. 66 Thousand miles. Blue with gray cloth interior. Sun roof, HUD, Power windows and Locks. I am in Pa. I will post pictures as soon as I can.
  8. I literally just need a few small parts to have 100% everything I need to do August's 5 speed swap. I need: clutch fluid reservoir, preferable with hose, but I can take care of that. Rubber grommets to go on the firewall plus the metal retaining ring, this is for 282. the grommets for a 284 are probably not compatible due to the larger shift and select cable sizes. I'll have to 100% verify that. 284 retaining ring is the same part. let me know how much shipped to 16001 Thanks -Chris
  9. I have a 91 GTP 5 speed that has a couple of problems. First is that it dies if the rpms are somewhat high and I suddenly press the clutch. It basically goes from whatever rpms it was on to 0 rpms and dies. The second one is that once it dies after 2 or 3 times the engine is pretty slow cranking up and will eventually not start. Looks and sound like if the battery was dying. I have replaced the battery and starter, checked the alternator and it shows okay. What could be the problem? I'm hoping that someone here has had the same issues
  10. So as im sure a lot of you have seen on FB i have this clunk in the front of my car. The noise seems to originate on the passenger side. I happens one single time on every initial acceleration from a stop. It also happens intermittently over large bumps like gutters and speed bumps, and on rear rare occasions full lock turning.. This clunk is loud I've had a cd skip while playing once or twice Now this started right after a lot of suspension work. I replaced control arms, ball joints, swaybars, endlinks, and lowered the car. I did reuse the old struts and mounts as they were less than 30k miles and 2 years old, i also installed shorter dogbones to make sure the downpipe doesn't hit the swaybar (clunking happened before shorter dogbones so thats been ruled out). Ive had a inspection done on all the replacement part and they all seem to be installed and tightened correctly Motor mounts were replaced 2 years ago but were replaced with stock hydraulic mounts, and both cv axles are spewing grease, but both of those usually have different symptoms than what I'm experiencing. Let me know what you think Thanks Jake
  11. MY 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass is f or sale, i am asking $4000 OBO. This vehicle has 58,519 miles. it has only had 3 owners and has been garage kept for the majority of its life time. There is 0 rust to be found on this vehicle. It is a 5 speed manual (very odd ball for this type of car) There is minor work to be done no immediate fixes: minor dent on side of passenger door, middle arm rest leather cracked, hood is rock chipped. other than that the vehicle gets great gas mileage on the high way and is a smooth riding car. I live in Piqua, Ohio and with the purchase of this car i will have it buffed, waxed, and detailed.
  12. I am looking for both a shifter assembly with knob, and the sliding indicator for a TGP. It don't have to have come off a TGP, but needs to be a 4 speed auto.
  13. Hello, I have a creaking noise coming from the passenger side front suspension. The noise appeared about three days ago. The noise is only heard when making a sharp right turn at a low speed, at the moment when the weight of the car shifts from the passenger side to the driver side. There are no handling or driveability issues. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  14. Sorry about the other post, tapatalk app didn't use the screen name I had typed in, instead it just used my old email screen name. But anyway, I'm from Fairborn Ohio, and a few weeks ago I bought a 1998 Monte Carlo ls with a little over 200k miles on it from a friend for $460 as a second car. Other car being a 1991 Ford Festiva with a 1.6l swap, and a 5 speed. The Monte Carlo does have some rust issues I plan to get fixed. (Rust doesn't scare me!) Like the rear strut towers are rusted through, but my friend already offered up someone to weld them up. I got quite a few plans for this Monte, and I have a brother that knows the 3100 l82 inside and out, he's even done the 3.4 top end swap to his Malibu. First things first though, the rust needs fixed before I dump any amount of money into it. Pics coming shortly.
  15. Hello everybody, I have been cruising around here for a while as a guest and finally started an account, I'm also on I have a 98 grand prix daytona pace car with a sunroof and I have a dream of building a 97- 03 5 speed gp. Ill be looking for knowlege and parts mostly and I can give my best shot at advice to others.
  16. Good morning everyone, My name is James from San Antonio. I recently acquired a 94 Cutlass Ciera with 80k original miles. It has been well serviced by its elderly PO and runs\drives great. If I believe the temp gauge though, it is being weird. It moves around a lot. Leaving town yesterday it warmed up normally and climbed a tick past mid way (which is 220) then dropped back to about 1/4 then settled around 200...a tick below half. Cool But it didn't last...I sped up to merge onto another hwy and it crept up again. Now for the whole 60 mile interstate drive it was running 200 to 230 by the gauge, varying the whole way. Half way in stopped for gas and left it idling...the car got warm about 3/4 up the gauge getting close to the red. When I merged back to the highway the temp dropped rapidly to 1/4 ...them slowly returned to what it was doing before moving 200 to 230 and back. So I dropped it out of overdrive to bring revs change. So it runs hot all the time speed....sometimes I let it coast down a klong hill on the highway ...barely drops it at all. None of the usual things seem to make sense... Any thoughts. And yes water is full and looks fairly good. The PO was reminding me to check the battery water...I think its been fairly well serviced.
  17. First, can a Mod please move this to the FAQ section. Thanks. For anyone that has a 5speed W-body, we all know about the situation with shift cables. They are hard to come by and condition is unknown. Well fortunately, if your looking for one, your problem has been solved. This is the cable that I had in the group buy: This cable is rated for 215lbs push and 620lbs pull. The length is the same as the stock cable. It is physically bigger around than the stock cable, so you will have to modify the body grommets for this to fit. Now how do you get one? You will need to contact this company: Here is a list of their locations with contact information to see which is closest to your location: Now that you know where to look, heres the info youll need to tell them. The part number for this cable is: 173-M-TT-2-59.75 Here is the e-mail from 01/08/2013 Since this was from 01/08/2013, expect prices to go up. Now the good thing about this cable is the end hiem joints can be changed. Shift cable for a 282/284, select cable for 282/284. If you have a different platform car, the last number ( 59.75" ) is the cable length. The J,N, etc platform cars use a shorter cable. Just measure your cable and give them that measurement instead of the 59.75" Now the bad part about this cable, since it is adjustable, youll need to mess with the adjustment, to make the shifts perfect/make it go into all the gears all the way. This will take a little time. Also, the end hiem joints are not perfect and might need some working with to make them fit. Everybody with a 282/284 equiped W-body, no need to worry about old shift cables. This will be the last one you buy. If anyone has any questions or wants more information, PM me. -Jason
  18. Ok I have a standard 5 speed swap parts list for everything coming from a prob is I havent found any 5 speed ws around me. Im wondering what other cars I can get parts from. I already know about all 88-92 ws having the right pedal box without the clutch pedal. Ive jheard you can use a cobalt/g5 clutch pedal(which I have) I have an s3 alloy pan from a gp, I have a reatta ofa(2 actually lol), I already have someone to machine a 3800 camaro flywheel for me. Any help or tips would b greatly appreciated. Thanks
  19. So I've noticed since I started driving the Cutlass again that the car is giving me a whopping 10 MPG in MIXED driving... I'm almost scared to know what it would do in real downtown city driving. Anyways, I hooked up tunerpro to the car, and I'm not getting any codes. The only thing I do see is the computer actually affirming me that I'm getting 10mpg. That's what the dash on tunerpro says. At times I get lucky and it will jump to 12 or 14 but most of the time it's 10. This is interstate driving, where usually, I would get 18-20MPG. It used to be that when the car was in 4th gear and doing 70, I got 23mpg, but that's no longer the case. No matter the speed, it's giving me 10mpg. I have switched the TPS out thinking it was that, but no avail. No codes set, no vacuum leaks, tried seafoaming it, that didn't help. I'm at a loss. The interesting part is that I do smell a sweet honey like smell after turning the car off. I sometimes do also notice the engine a bit sluggish around the 2000rpm mark, but resolves itself if I floor it to 3000rpm. After that it acts normal but will feel sluggish if I go back to 2000rpm. I do have a datastream from the time I ran it with tunerpro, but don't know how to attach. All help is appreciated.
  20. Boss got an 06 caddy cts 3.6, 6-speed the other day that hes thinking on parting out. Needs an engine, has passkey issues etc etc. Looks showroom fresh. What parts can I use? Any of the clutch related components compatable with an f40 or a 284? Already planning on snagging the shift knob, boot, and center console
  21. ALright guys its offical, i have begun the swap, i will be posting a tonne of pics of the progress for your watching pleasure. im im doing this in my driveway for the time being and will pull the engine at a local gm dealership that has agreed to let me use their shop over a weekend anyways for starters, even when doing this yourself if you ever decide to do it, take alot of pictures, its will help refresh your memory on re assembly if required. Start of the swap, there is a few options, either you can pull the engine first or tackle the dash, or if you have help, you can have one on each. i decided to start on the interior. its pretty basic but time consuming, a 7mm, 10mm, extentions and 13mm are your best friends. im not going to get into details as the pics say enough for the interior, but for other stuff more details will be had to make things easier on yourself label all the connections like i am doing. im about an hour into the interior and here is my progress
  22. i checked on a few fb pages b4 i l26 swapped....they all said an 01 montana had 3.29 gearing. do the swap and now the cel is still lit and the incorrect ratio code is still popping up. also av rpms at a given cruise speed ar 150-200 rpms higher than my olds trans(4t65 from an 01 monte ss that i kno had 3.29s) so what ratio does it actually have? i was guessing 3.43. and btw my pcm is from a 98 monte z34(l36/4t65 w/3.29) thanks
  23. DTC C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 DTC C1225 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted DTC C1245 Right Front ABS Channel Does Not Move I'm assuming there's an issue with the front left wheel speed sensor. Since they're non-serviceable (yay, GM!), I've got a new wheel hub ready to go. Can someone confirm which side is the left and right? I figured the driver's side is the left side but I can't be too sure. I previously checked and the speed sensor is plugged in with no noticeable break in the wiring; however, I didn't check the resistance at the speed sensors. I'm going to do that before replacing the hub. C1245 has me a bit confused. I'm hoping this problem is in conjunction with the wheel speed sensor issue. Does anyone have more information?
  24. Hi all, The short story is I pulled the motor on my '92 GTP for a clutch job and I noticed my DIC is showing "CK. FUEL" with no speed/range/econ data available. I ran DIC diagnostics on it, and the 1st two digits agreed with my fuel level, but the 7th digit is showing an X instead of S, meaning an ECM serial data failure. So I tried connecting my Snap-On MT-2500 scanner to the ALDL line. It gets power, but can't connect to the ECM in scanning mode. I pulled it off and tested shorting the A&B ALDL pins, and the dash flashed the 1-2 code series to say everything's OK. The manual says that I should check my wiring on the orange 461 wire for short or open, but I haven't messed with anything in there lately and as far as I can tell it looks OK under the dash, and also from the firewall harness connector back to the ECM. I doubt it would be a problem in the DIC itself, but haven't ruled that out. Anyone else ever had this happen before? Is there another point where I can do continuity tests on that wire to figure out what's going on?
  25. I have a really odd HVAC panel in my 95 CS. It is not the dual zone, but it is not vacuum, as it's all wires behind it. Air is stuck at defrost. Fan speed and hot/cold work fine. Thought maybe faulty switch, replaced with a JY one same deal. Checked all fuses. It sounds like the door is not wanting to open, can hear a faint electrical noise like it wants to. Any other ideas? I have a feeling its the mode door. I hope not, because I don't wanna tear out the dash to fix it.
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