UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'piston'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Site Related
    • W-body.com Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Biography


Location


Interests


Occupation

Found 121 results

  1. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  2. Made a thread about engine issues, but sourced an engine. Topic is no longer needed anymore.
  3. I noticed I have piston slap when the engine is cold. I initially thought the valves were just noisy, but then I remember that I had an Alero with a 3400 that just sounded like the top end was coming apart when it was cold. I did a little research, and found that it was piston slap. I'm not all that worried about it. I haven't lost a drop of oil in 3500 miles, and it goes away fairly quickly. But there was not really a clear cut answer in any of the other posts about what can be done to quiet it down and stave off any potential damage. I was thinking thicker oil, maybe 15w40 or maybe even 20w50. I don't see what 20w50 would hurt, seeing as how it has almost 170k. Plus I was just curious... Were the first generation 2.8's and 3.1's prone to piston slap? I never recall actively noticing it in my CS or Lumina. This is newest w-body I have ever owned, and didn't know the gen 2 3100's fell victim to it. Anyway... Thanks all, Aaron
  4. So I have been working on my 2004 Imp aka the Sh1tb0x or moving forward: SkImpala Budget is about $200 a week for parts, I do all my labor with a jack and stands. So far I have Installed: -Solid front Swaybar 35mm doorman product -Vented front Rotors -KYB Strut plus front 4002 (wish i coulda had bilstein or even the adjustables, but 75 a peice was irresistible) I want to Install -17 or 18" wheels, steel with centercaps or aluminum WRC rally style wheels -Larger Rotors 12"+ -Dual piston or 4 Piston Caliper (possibly F body Conversion, or looking at Bonneville fronts) -Steel braided brake hoses -Steel Brake Lines (would love to find someone that bends and flares seamless stainless tubing with fittings to factory contour instead of bending some up myself.) -Strut Tower Connector front and rear -Solid Trailing Arms in rear -Solid Rear Swaybar and Links -Rear coil over struts (going with the KYB 4003 4004) I am Also Interested In -Possibly going with a larger Brake booster/master cylinder to move a larger amount of DOT3/4 Looking for some expert advice setting up a plan for the braking and suspension, I REALLY want to be able to slam the brakes and stop ASAFP PDQ Additionally, No ABS on this Imp for some reason.
  5. Hey folks! I have here a '96 GP 2 door SE coupe with the 3100 V6, I have had it for a while but I am about to make it roadworthy and reliable, that being said, I wanted to know if there are any well-known general problems with these 3100's? It runs great, has some piston slap when it first starts after it hasn't been started for a long time, but I have been told that is normal. Thanks! Mr.
  6. Call it an obsession or just a past time, but I've been reading on engines/building/general dynamics(despite the fact I've never even done a head gasket job). I have a bit of a pipe dream of building a racing style motor at some point down the road. I know Formula 1 engines rev to insane speeds of up to 18,000 RPM, and that this is a large part of the sound. But I'm curious about the other factors that play a role. At no point through the rev range does a F1 engine sound like any traditional automobile engine. [video=youtube;Czw1pB6ZDRM]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Czw1pB6ZDRM What do you suppose gives F1 engines the unique sound? I've been reading up on compression ratio, bore/stroke ratio, rod/stroke ratio, piston dwell, piston speed, power strokes per second, etc. From what I gather, F1 engines typically run around 17:1 compression, up to 2.5:1 bore/stroke ratio, and over 2:1 rod/stroke ratio. Anyone have some knowledge to drop on me?
  7. Hey guys, I'm all set to install new rear calipers for a 93 cutlass and couldn't get the caliper to fit over the rotor. On closer inspection I noticed that the piston is stuck out too far, like it's engaged. Is this an easy fix or should I return it? I'm really hoping it's an easy fix, would like to get this car on the road again! Here's a pic, thanks for any help!
  8. anybody go the compression specs? I did some searching without much luck. I"ve got 2 cylinders way off left is front of engine 4 5 6 1 2 3 1 - 160, 103, 135, 142, 140 2 - 190, 200, 200 3 - 181, 156, 156 4 - 172, 171, 173 5 - 200, 181, 189 6 - 112, 125, 120 tested each three times didn't do the oil test, prob should've got coolent leaking out the front of cylinder 4 was just gonna through it back together with new gaskets cause owner wanted it running. didn't run all that bad before suprisingly. Now she wants it running right, so prob gonna do a compressed air test see if i can hear where she's leaking Not that serious cause with it torn down she thinks she wants a valve job and new piston rings anyways. anybody got good links for the specs or should i just join alldata?
  9. I recently did an all wheel brake job and a month later I was just looking through some forums and read that the rear piston has to be positioned a certain way. I did not know this. What's the purpose of this? Should I be concerned? Another thing is I'm getting an oscillating sound coming from the rear when I apply the brakes, it's not loud or bad sounding its just annoying. It started after I had to slam the brakes in rush hour traffic. What's this sound from?
  10. I'd like to install a shift kit in the 04 Comp G when I drop the pan and change the fluid and filter... hopefully this will solve some of this transmissions quirkiness and firm everything up... My question is, what is a good shift kit for this transmission? I've seen kits from ZZP http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/259-4T65e-Shift-Kit.aspx , Thrasher, and Intense... The Intense kit looks like the most thorough kit with new accumulator springs, piston seals and everything. Is it worth the $100? Here's the kit I'm looking at: http://intense-racing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=IR&Product_Code=TSP-651&Category_Code=3800_T The other kits are cheaper, but come with fewer parts. Thoughts, experiences, opinions? Thanks in advance!
  11. Hey guys, I have a 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.1L engine and automatic. Recently, the engine has developed a piston slap or rod knocking noise only when the engine is warm. I have no check engine light, and, no other issues seem to be arrising from it, just the noise. I have also changed the oil and put in an engine/oil treatment, and the noise still remains. Does anyone have any clue what could be the cause of this? Please let me know. Thank you, Starflare5.
  12. Got a 91 lumina euro (with 4spd auto+OD) with aprox 200k has had the heads milled for true surface from blown HG's other than that she's completely stock. The issues are it ran like absolute boar shit bucking 95% of the time we could never get a scan on it to see if it had any sensors malfunctioning because like a little leprechaun it would disappear before it made it back to the house and apparently not store the code(s). I know the speedo goes crazy suspecting the VSS as for the bucking i'm guessing either the CPS or an internal issue, but i have not performed a compression or leak down test. Also after we redid the topend it had a bit of piston slap on cold starts which is why i think it may be internal but hoping it's not. I'm just looking for suggestions on things to check.... proper fuel psi, sensors that can cause these issues (voltage specs would help), compression # etc etc feel free to voice ya'lls opinions! Thanks in advance.
  13. So I know that to get the piston back in to the rear calipers, they have to be threaded in with a special tool. Question I have is, do both sides have to be turned to the right (clockwise) or do they alternate from each side (one side clockwise, the other counter)? If they alternate, which side goes which way?
  14. Hi guys, changing my rear pads and i kind of ripped the rubber boot that goes around the piston, no biggy ordered a rebuild kit with another one from autozone( probably should`ve got a whole new to me caliper from pull a part for 4 bucks less oh well) From what i understand the rear needs a tool to compress as it looks as if the piston threads into the caliper. I`ll borrow one or i have a tool i made to twist it in. Im not wanting to replace all the little o-rings and seals because they are ok, its just my dumbass that dropped the caliper and the boot hit a sharp corner and it ripped. ok question. How far does the piston need to be threaded into the caliper? Any tips or advice you guys have would be awesome.
  15. Dad found a guy who has a 1994 lumina euro in town, who is willing to sell. Problem is that the guy dropped one of the heat shield nuts into the piston and apparently forgot, because he told me that he did turn it over, and remembered about the nut when the engine made a horrible sound. The car has been sitting for a year in his yard. When I was talking to the guy and mentioned him selling it, he also remembered that he had just put new tires on the car, and got it tuned up. He wouldn't name a price, and kept asking me how much I would offer. I'm going to take a look in a day or two, and see what kind of shape the rest of it is in. This car's ultimate purpose is to become a donor car for my 91 euro, and possibly for the z34 I'm picking up on friday. I'd like advice from both ends of the spectrum - how much if the car is a piece of crap, and how much if it is in decent shape. Regardless of the body condition, the car doesn't run, and won't until someone (me) goes in to see how badly the engine was screwed up when it was turned over. The guy wants to get back something on the tires, and I can respect that, but I'm poor and want to get away with paying something reasonable considering the car's current condition.
  16. The HVAC wont blow out of the upper vents. I think I found the control module under the dash on the passenger side and other control parts under the glovebox insert (see pics) The piston looking thing with the brown hose and the lower one with the orange hose aren't moving but I can pull up on the one with the brown hose and air will blow out the vents. So what isn't working? Is it the white arm coming from the center of the car or is it the part with the hose connected to it or something else? Also, you can see the yellow and purple hoses running under the dash (you can barely see them in the top left corner in the glovebox pic) but I don't know where they go or what all has to come out to fix this. thanks for any help!
  17. Just a quick check, just to make sure. To retract the rear disc pistons on my '95 Cutlass, remove the parking brake lever, then turn while pressing in...counterclockwise on driver side, clockwise on passenger side, right?
  18. Driverside rear pads were really worn out, compared to the rest of the pads all near 90% life. The inner pad was gone grinding on the rotor, the outer wasnt even squealing yet. What would cause that? The piston wasnt seized, however the parking brake line was missing the spring that the passenger side has, I think it was the parking brake line.
  19. I took off the vaccum, the master cylinder, and disconnected the piston rod to the pedal. How do you spin it off?
  20. Yep, I did it. This is for the 5 speed. The new brakes are on there way for the turbo . Enjoy and ask away with questions. Mark
  21. I have concluded that the reason why my 4T65E slips in 1st gear is because of the input clutch piston seal, and apparently you need to get 3/4 into the transmission torn down completely to replace it, which includes the use of special tools. All these tools, guess what, I don't have, nor do I have the time for it anymore and this car is now going from a great joy to have to a royal pain in my ass because I'm always sitting there on the edge. At minimum I'm looking at a $120 ish overhaul kit, a $60 PCS solenoid, and a $30 TCC solenoid, including tools that I'd need to buy to do the job. I can limp it around with a leaking input clutch seal, or I could consider my options. My options so far are: Rebuild it myself - takes time, but gains knowledge and experience Have someone rebuild it - cost, finding someone to do it Swap in a 5 speed 282/284 - where to find the parts, cost of clutch Swap in a 6 speed F40 - where to find the parts, who can help me do it? Swap in a 4T80E - power hog, heavy, takes a ton of power, expensive I can't seem to find a cheap F40 anymore, nor do I know what else would be required to make it work, so that's a very questionable idea. What do you guys think?
  22. Finally putting this up... Well since I lost 3rd gear on my auto and detonated a piston on the 3.1 I decided an overhaul was in order. Pics: http://s877.photobucket.com/albums/ab334/Hachi85/Radical%20Revs%201989%20Grand%20Prix%20turbo%205%20speed%20swap/ http://s877.photobucket.com/albums/ab334/Hachi85/Radical%20Revs%201989%20Grand%20Prix%20turbo%205%20speed%20swap/?albumview=slideshow http://s877.photobucket.com/home/Hachi85/index http://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=1155573842&ref=mf#/album.php?aid=52999&id=1155573842 http://www.cardomain.com/id/JareksGP http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2566538 Im updating the links with new pics so stay tuned for anybody who is interested. Motor should be done within the month if not the week and I have basically everything ready to go.
  23. Hi guys, long time lurker, first time poster (i think, lol). The other day while I was raising my top, I heard a "pop" and everything slowed down. I was like "shit", wtf was that . I just got to take a peek to see what happened and what I found was that the drivers side cylinder rod eye bushing broke in half leaving the eye still on the frame but the cylinder flopping in the breeze . Its a brass colored eye that spins on the top of the piston lift rod and fixes to the frame of the car. Are these available aftermarket or do I have to buy a whole cylinder ass'y? That would suck cause those things are about $130.00. Got to love GM with thier pot metal parts ..... bastards ..... Anyways, any help would be greatly appeciated. Mark.
  24. I had swapped out my pads and rotors a while back and everything went well. What i noticed was a rattling noise coming from the passenger side after i had replaced everything (brake wise). What I found out is the two legs that extend from the back of the brake pad some how either bent or broke off and caused the pad to rattle inside the caliper. I wanted to ask you all how or what caused this, and what could I do next time to keep that from happening next time. I had used a large C clamp to push the piston back into the caliper slowly so to put the new pad in, just like the driver side, but some how it happend on the passenger side. Any thoughts?
  25. OK, this month's stupid question from the mechanically inept ..... I finally got the rear cylinder head off (had to grind through 2 manifold studs and one of the torx head screws from the timing-belt back-plate, which is why it took so long), and I'm not too happy with what I found! The front pistons and cylinders had some carbon build-up, but were otherwise clean, the rear ones have evidence of coolant leaks - lots of dried white and yellow crap like that clogging all the water-channels. So, do I need to rebuild the block as well, or can I get away with cleaning the crap out (vacuum cleaner and toothbrush seems like the best bet)? Any expert advice gratefully received! Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...