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Found 1,746 results

  1. Hi everyone. I have a fixture for rebuilding the 1989/1990 Turbo Grand Prix, TSTE exhaust crossover (x-over) pipes. The original crossovers have bellow style flex joints that cracks and leaks, causing a rich running condition. All rebuilt ones come with a woven style flex joint that is the industry standard nowadays. Also, the original is encased with a molded steel heatshield that trapped moisture against the crossover, accelerating corrosion. Once rebuilt, the heat shield is no longer utilized, with no ill effects. $375 USD shipped anywhere in North America without core return. $300 USD shipped anywhere in North America with core return. (Effectively a $75 core charge - I'd prefer to receive your rebuildable core rather than charge the $75) I have had lots of seamless transactions with members on this board and, so have no worries. All shipments will include a tracking number. PayPal and money orders are my preferred methods of payment. Any questions, concerns or comments please feel free to PM me or email me at Matt
  2. Just ordered my decals from Tearstone today. I got the chromed ones. I asked them if they would hold up to the elements and the guy said he's had the chromed ones on for six years and they look like they did when he first put them on. We'll see. Will post pics later when I get them and it warms up outside so I could put them on.
  3. These are 4th gen f-body weatherstrips in nice shape, cut and trimmed to length, clips removed and ready to drill and install on your 1992-1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible. An excellent replacement for the oem weatherstrip that cracks and deteriorates over time. Here are some pics after drilling and riveting them on my 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible. With trim reinstalled Here's a set I installed on my black 1994 vert. $60 including shipping anywhere in Canada or the lower 48 states. Payment accepted by paypal at: HOW TO: 91-95 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme convertible quarter window weatherstrip replacement 1) You will need to remove the B pillar trim. It's about 6 screws. 2) Have junk in the trunk? Remove it. 3) To remove the piece of trim below the weather stripping, you will need to go in the trunk. There are three 9mm nuts that attach it to the car. The last one is a stretch. There is also one phillips screw on the front of each trim piece by the door handles. 4) Once that is off you have a much better look at what your dealing with. 5) You will need to drill out those rivets. Roll down the window! You do not want to let the drill bit hit the glass. Use a rag in between the window and rivet. Remove the old weatherstripping. 6) Drill out the holes to accommodate your new rivets 7) Measure twice and drill once for the 4 rivet holes. Make sure they're in the right spot. 8) Time for the pop rivet gun! 9) Then pop in your new rivets. Now it's time to put the B pillar and trim back on. 10) Enjoy your new clean weather stripping. It looks a lot better than the old stuff.
  4. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  5. Out of curiosity, is anyone here running a battery in the trunk? I'm debating whether or not this is a worthwhile mod for me since I am planning on rewiring my car for amplifiers, and I also want to do a CAI, but I'm not wholly convinced. If anyone has pics, I'd like to see that as well.
  6. For anyone not aware, I had bought a TGP in October, 2013 which had a few minor needs. I was chipping away at small projects. I bought a parts car a couple months ago. On July 21, 2014, my TGP burned out due to a PMIII accumulator failure. So now the parts car has become the fixer-upper. So I will update this tread as I finish little projects. It's not in horrible condition. I may sell it soon, as I found one with lower mileage that I might pick up. Here are some pics from when I brought it home : The closer one is the one that burned, the one towards the left is the one I have still.
  7. Not much really to say... It's my build thread. Now that I have 2 cars again I can finally focus on getting the Cutlass where I want it to be without having to worry about having it good to drive when I need to go somewhere since my Camaro is now my daily driver. So far I've had the Cutlass sitting for about 2 months now since there's just a lot I need to work on that car, so without further ado this will be my build thread. Every mod and some fixes will go in here. My ultimate goal is to have a cruiser for those days when I have people with me (the Camaro barely fits 4 comfortably) while at the same time modernizing the 1G W body into what GM should had made it the first time around. This won't be a night to day transformation but it might be entertaining for people to see what can be done with these cars... Plus with Cardomain being wack now I kinda wanted a place to talk about my car. Here's some pics of the last time I washed the car in October or so. This is pretty much how she sits now.
  8. Please circle November 1st, 2014 in your calendar, that will be the last day to submit pictures. As per usual ediquette, if you have your car featured in the calendar you are expected to be buying one. I am looking into options for uber-big, uber-glossy calendars or the standard: Cafe Press regular calendars. More announcements & details to come along with an address to submit your photos to. Due to the rather large collection of photos that I have if you want one of my pics of your car (not someone elses), just contact me with the picture name. They are all numbered if you save one from the meet threads.
  9. I'm a convertible (and an Olds guy) - always was afraid of the 3.1+3.4L's in the 92-95 verts, totally forgot some of these had the 'older' 3.1 similar to what I'm used to on my 1988 Z24 2.8L (the smaller bore version). Anyway, its a well maintained 91, can't believe its owner gave it up. I'm told it was traded in for a truck to haul a camper/trailer. The guy kept it mint, I'm going to have fun trying to keep up what he did. I don't think it was ever driven in rain or snow. It has the 1SD package and even "white stripe" tires which are mentioned as being an option in a brochure I have. Has about 95k miles on it.
  10. Found a mint set of lip tails, spoiler will need to be painted, is currently red, but faded, at the jy today. Im starting to trip over these so its for sale. $100+shipping takes em. Pics upon request. Thanks.
  11. I am not a fan of these and the GTP I just bought has them on, they look great and work fine they are currently on the car now and it is my daily. I am looking for $65 shipped for them, I know how much they sell for new and honestly I have had issues with them on LSx cars and they left a bad taste in my mouth. I am putting stock coil packs on. I will get pics tonight when I get home.
  12. Heartbeat1991


    I am in the process of rebuilding Galen's TGP transmission. He had no 4th gear. After taking it apart, it's obvious why. The 4th gear clutch was all tore up. I never seen one like that before. But I don't have a lot of 4T60 experience either. The clutch material was gone. It was all metal to metal. The confusing part is that the clutch teeth were bent up pretty bad and the whole things seems to have been spinning in the outside of it's carrier. ( See pics ). I have yet to do much digging for parts. . .But, does anyone know if that clutch career is going to be ok to re-use? And what caused this? What else should I be looking for? It seems to me that something had to have been bound up to cause this. But I have no idea how.
  13. Haven't put them in the car yet, but thought people might like to see the look/quality. These are Lloyds Mats, velourtex with logo:
  14. This is the big 3800 Gathering Meet in Greater Detroit Area. Admission is $10 - per vehicle. (Donated to Leader Dogs for the Blind Charity) Washrooms on site, admission is per vehicle. There is parking for non-W's or 3800 cars, it is across the street in a dirt lot. Location: 3500 Marais Ave. Royal Oak, MI 48073. They have prizes that you can buy tickets for, along with a hot dog cart type of vendor, and parking for approx. 150-200 W-body or 3800 vehicles, there's a thread in the pics section with some of my pics from last year. They also had a DJ, same thing (more strict than our meets absolutely no burnouts, but insanely well organized) Last year we got a group rate at a pretty decent hotel for around $80 a night, there was Friday night festviities too, and those of us who stayed at the hotel were up till around 5-6am on Sunday morning/Saturday night. Much of the group went to Woodward as well late night. I've already made my feelings clear on it to several individuals in our group, but I will re-state. We need to either steer clear of this weekend for our big meet, or merge with this meet for our big meet in June. Plan on arriving early, if last year is any indication, you will not be able to find parking for your Space Bobby car in the main lot after 12:00pm or so. Hope to see lots of people there.
  15. you all know how to do it so i'm not going into full detail but i'm trying to make my own clear corners here are some pics . before you guys go and tell me that it looks like dog shit remember its a rough try just trying to figure some things out before i make a good set here are some pics
  16. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  17. I have a set of 3.4L heads and cams from a 1993 Z34 with about 72k miles on them. I pulled them to do some work to them but ended up never getting around to it. They were pulled off of a working engine. I'll try to grab some pics later.
  18. If you have some for sale please post up some pics, a price and if they are off of a 2dr or a 4dr. Thanks.
  19. Hello All and Happy New Year! My wife purchased a 1990 Regal Gran Sport Coupe new and drove it until 2005. It was parked with about 160K well maintained miles. She bought a new vehicle and decided against trading in or selling the Regal as it was her 1st new car. It has sat outdoors under a car cover until just a couple of months ago. We made space for it in the garage. I have put it on stands. She wants me to get in back into shape so she can have it as a "play" car. It's the 3.1L V-6 and I have tore it down to the intake manifold so I can replace the gaskets. I plan to pretty much refurbish everything to new or as close to new as possible. I will post up some pics on the progress.
  20. Need to get the front wheels off the ground to do the brakes, problem is the pinch welds are rusted and will easily give. I've tried to find a alternate central lifting point online but haven't been successful. The whole underside is quite rusted, so where would be a safe place to jack up the car and put the jack stands? Pics or diagrams would be helpful too if anyone has them, thanks in advance
  21. ALright guys its offical, i have begun the swap, i will be posting a tonne of pics of the progress for your watching pleasure. im im doing this in my driveway for the time being and will pull the engine at a local gm dealership that has agreed to let me use their shop over a weekend anyways for starters, even when doing this yourself if you ever decide to do it, take alot of pictures, its will help refresh your memory on re assembly if required. Start of the swap, there is a few options, either you can pull the engine first or tackle the dash, or if you have help, you can have one on each. i decided to start on the interior. its pretty basic but time consuming, a 7mm, 10mm, extentions and 13mm are your best friends. im not going to get into details as the pics say enough for the interior, but for other stuff more details will be had to make things easier on yourself label all the connections like i am doing. im about an hour into the interior and here is my progress
  22. Hi, im new to the l67 (or any variation thereof). I got bored one day so I got on craigslist to see what I had to offer. i bought a totaled 2001 ssei Bonneville. not too much damage but the insurance company thought other wise. After searching the forums I wanted to come up with a 1 of a kind swap that would be easy and cheap to build, be unique, and be a sleeper. I found a 1998 vw beetle. then I got to measuring and cutting. sorry for some reason the pics are not in order. I cut the Pontiac at the firewall. then I cut the REAR floor pan and trunk floor. measured and notched the vw frame. I put the Pontiac subframe and unibody in place and started welding and plating. then I cut the rear deck out of the Pontiac and placed it over the engine in the rear of the car.
  23. I was tracking down the source of a leaky trunk in my 1995 Chevy Lumina. When I pulled back part of the trunk liner, I noticed some rust streaks around the strut tower. I started pushing with my fingers inside the rear wheel well, and I felt the crunch of rust. I will post the pics from my phone, and I need to know how bad it is. Thanks. Passenger Side: Driver Side:
  24. Inside the Beltway, that is...just barely. I can see it if I'm on the roof of the house... Greetings...I've been stalking the board for a couple months and I thought I should finally do the introduction thing...which is awkward always. My daily went down with a jumped timing chain (1980 Monte Carlo) so I thought I might need to take some pressure off of her (and give myself some time to fix I wouldn't always be needing the gf's Volvo 740 wagon), so I joined the wonderful world of w-body when I found a 1994 Regal GS coupe. Love the car...hate the wheels. Apparently at some point it got 91 GS wheels, painted silver, but dark silver and not even the Corvette Rally Argent Silver *grumble*. I'm all amazed at the technology of 1994 now, like an unfrozen early 80s caveman, but I got a deal on an Actron scanner from ebay and while I haven't bled on the Regal yet, I've cleared the CEL and did my first camshaft sensor (oooooh, serpentine belts!). So...hi all! Yeah, pics from the craigslist ad... Hmm, they look lighter here...maybe I should wash the damn things...
  25. 94 3.4L DOHC, the Cannister Purge vacuum plastic line drops behind the engine and goes to a hose that goes under the vacuum booster. It's got a burned crispy spot from where it appears to have been resting either on the exhaust manifold or O2 sensor and it also touches the transaxle shift linkage. Doesn't really look like that's how this hose is supposed to be routed. I've zip-tied it to the evaporator pipes to get it away from the exhaust and gearshift linkage, but was just wondering if anyone knows how it's supposed to be routed and if you happen to have pics?
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