There’s a special tool for removing the collar that secures the shock inside the strut tube. It’s fine threaded and likely to be a bugger to get out from the top if you can find the tool, unless it was changed a few times and had anti seize applied. I took mine apart using big vice grips.
I understand now. The schematic explains it all. I couldn't find one that detailed.
Who knew the entire assembly could be removed as one unit. I've had new lower control arm bushings sitting on the shelf for about 2 years now so I may just completely pull the entire assembly out, and do everything at once. The passenger side tire has had a bad case of toe out for years so the alignment doesn't matter. I dont mind compressing the springs. Ive never had a real issue compressing and these are 26 years old anyway.
I do like GTP091's way of changing the bearings. This is originally how I thought I had to do it. And still may do it this way.. Few months ago I changed the rear shocks and had a hell of a time with the big mono-leaf. So I fear I'm going to end back up in that situation again lol.
I wonder why GM didnt keep using this strut design.. I love the cartridges and how easy they are to change. Its not like the strut bearings go bad any sooner than they do on the mid-2000s W Bodys. By the end of the month I plan on doing this job. Ill be referencing this post and try to post an update...thanks!
I’ve worked with stainless lots before so isn’t my first rodeo here. I was actually cutting some regular old steel for non car purposes when she burnt up. The saw is a very old craftsman and my vice has been abused over the years. Just a pain in the ass when they both bust up the same day.
LOL, you have discovered how much more brutal stainless is where trying to cut it is concerned, it is considerably harder than mild steel. I went thru a couple of 14" cut off discs with my chop-saw as well. Didn't kill the motor tho, backed off the pressure to save the motor. what brand of chop-saw do you have?