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Matt... In one of those uploaded pics you supplied....there are 4 zener diodes inside the housing (those 4 black & silver round items look like them). If any one of them has failed (shorted) that will upset the operation of the control mechanism.  One can see the diode array in the attached pic  

Any idea what the resistors are for Nate? That’s really the only thing that looks different. I’m gonna look up the relays but I can only assume (and I think the wiring diagram confirms, for check again) that both units just have two identical NO relays. So assuming all the wiring to them is the same, requiring the ends should in theory work. I mean it’s just power, one relay for each side, and essentially an end switch to stop the motor once it hits fully open/closed

I have zero issues doing this physically, I just have no idea if the internals of this newer one are the same, and I’m not sure I want to bastardize both and end up with nothing haha    I was gonna  plug the old one in and close it so I could at least drive it but it makes getting to this piece 1000x more difficult lol   edit: I looked over the traces and didn’t visibly see anything that stood out, but given it works sometimes (without any perceivable reason) it may be something I can’t see. I thought about ordering replacement relays but I’m not sure that would work. I’m very tempted to cut wires in the middle and put the old ends on the new wires in the appropriate order and see what happens. I just wish I knew 

I need several electrical connectors replaced on my 2.8. Can anyone tell me if they can help me out? I don’t think any of the connectors are going to work with my harness from a 3.1 because I have a vacuum egr valve. The 3.1 mostly has the electronic egr valve and I seen the connectors are completely the opposite. What about the other sensors? Can I crimp these connectors from the harness that has the electronic egr valve and crimp them onto my harness that has the vacuum egr?   list of connectors that need to be replaced due to a critter chewing them. The bastard even chewed all of my weather packs smh. MAP SENSOR- GREEN WEATHERPACK - VAPOR CANISTER PURGE VALVE SOLENOID- TAN WEATHERPACK - EGR VALVE- GREY WEATHERPACK 2.8 only vacuum  - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR- BLUE WEATHERPACK - THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR- BLUE WEATHERPACK - COOLANT ENGINE TEMP SENSOR- BLUE WEATHERPACK - IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE- BLUE WEATHERPACK - OIL PRESSURE SENDER SWITCH- NEAR THE OIL FILTER- GREEN WEATHERPACK - AC COMPRESSOR CLUTCH COIL CONNECTOR- CONNECTOR IS ON THE SIDE OF THE CLUTCH PULLEY- BLUE WEATHERPACK - AIR INTAKE TEMP SENSOR- on the air filter box- BLUE WEATHERPACK

I've been hitting my head against the wall trying to figure this out. After several failed attempts to locate anything for the 1992 GTP, other than what you've already sourced.  I had an idea. Don't know if it's possible but it might me.  Would it be possible to replace the relays in the original connector? Either using the ones in the new unit or ordering AROMAT relays. I'm sure that might be the only issue. I would assume you've already inspected the solder joints for any cracking.  Now think I'm thinking about it, the resistors in the old unit could be the issue.  Rewiring and using the old connectors on the new unit might be the way to go.