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If you're still getting the same ECM code 33 with both MAP sensors in place & you know for CERTAIN that there is not a vacuum issue test the circuit from the ECM to the MAP for proper reference voltage & return. A high voltage situation suggests that the ground circuit may have an issue & the return (MAP signal) is seeing too high a return voltage back to the ECM.  

You need the following parts from a 98-99 Monte Carlo z34/ lumina ltz wiring harnesses  power steering lines exhaust downpipe (or have one made) heater core hoses if possible the alternator bracket/tensioner for the right angle heater hose connectors under alternator not 100% needed but nice to have. Other items Need to use the inner axle cups from the donor car and the outer shafts of the original cutlass Motor mounts bolt in no issues Donor car rad and hoses work Donor car auto trans cooler lines work Need a pcm tune to disable VATS. Once you have the parts, pcm and the wiring harness figured out it’s drop in You need to use the original subframe   The best advice I can give you for the wiring, and OBD2, is to get a factory service manual from the 98/98 monte carlo/Lumina and for your year of Cutlass.  You'll need to spend time ensuring each wire at the C100 connector matches from the monte carlo harness to the dash harness of the cutlass.  I would say 75% of the wires will be the same, and you'll need to move or add 25% of the wires.    You will also need to run 2 wires inside the cab for the OBD port, and I ran one into the cab for the tach as well.  Not sure if that is 100% needed, but it works for me! There used to be plenty of information out there on this swap.  I'm not sure if the old forums or posts have disappeared but this should get you going in the right direction.  Once you get working, I'm sure you'll come across specific issues, post them here and I'll do my best to help as I can.       Also check out this guys thread, for some troubles with this swap and how to overcome them (not my thread, but it'll help you see what you're in for).   

So I finally had the time and the weather to finish up on this job. I replaced the following: The two injectors that ohmed out at 4 and 7 plugs wires fuel pressure regulator MAP sensor IAC valve O2 sensor TPS Coolant Temp sensor It started, which is an improvement, but subsequent starts have been hard, and I'm getting a 3-3 MAP sensor code no matter whether I have the original one in or the replacement I bought. I took it for a shake down run around the block and it really isn't running that well. Hesitation with gas and it seems like it wants to stall when I slow down, but it didn't.  I don't know what's causing that MAP code. I'm glad it's running again, but despite all the new parts it doesn't seem like it's running as well as it was before the original problem arose. Thanks for the help.

Please help a fellow Cutlass enthusiast. I need help with getting this supercharged motor in and having it run smoothly.  Also, I need assistance with the wiring harness and OBDII port. Please assist

This started when I'd recently had the problem of my driver's side door not opening again.  Been through this so many times I've lost count, but it had started lasting less and less.  I ordered a Dorman replacement from Amazon, hopefully thinking it would be the  best of the worst. It lasted less than a month.  I'd had to set it at the limit of the adjustment right from the start, which wasn't a good sign. Sure, it worked at first.  But it started getting harder and harder to open with seemingly every pull.  Within a few weeks it didn't open the door anymore either. Looking more closely at the mechanism, the black aluminum arm that is part of the handle and extends all the way down gets gouged by the gold pivot bracket almost immediately.  I realized all it needed was a shim in that bracket.  But how to make it? I headed to my nearby Ace hardware and found a 4x package of 2 1/2" x 1/2" metal strips.  They have holes in either end and "ACE" stamped into them, but I wasn't going to need that much.  The actual measurement of the shim you need to make is 9/16" x 11/32".  I ended up cutting it so that I had an 11/32" piece in the 1/2" width of the strip.  Then, I just mixed up some JB Kwik and epoxied it into place. Hope this helps someone else with this never-ending problem with the old Gen-1 coupes.