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Decided to finally tackle my climate control issues in my 96. Lately the modes been only blowing on my feet and windshield. So took the glovebox out and snooped around a bit. Replaced the blend actuator. Works like a champ now. Have air in every position!. Also the blower motor was making a loud noise. Pulled the blower and there were Culver’s coupons stuck in the cage…..lol. Once those were removed the airflow is amazing and quiet. So far today’s been a productive day on the GP. Just need to find a way to repair that darn drivers window issue.

1.  A "code reader" is the mental retard of the diagnostic world.  They're trash.  A "code reader" is not a scan tool.  A scan tool does everything that a code reader does, and much more.  OBD 1.5 is NOT a factor.  "1.5" is used on this forum, but it's not in the service manuals.  Some scan tools will only work on OBD-II; clearly you need one that also works on pre-OBD-II systems. 2.  A multimeter is a GIGANTIC WASTE OF TIME, EFFORT, and ENTHUSIASM in this instance.  I'm not saying a multimeter doesn't have a use, just that it will take two days to check all the sensors and outputs for the engine computer system with a multimeter, and you can do it in fifteen minutes with a proper scan tool if the engine is running.  You won't be able to test the O2 sensor if the engine doesn't start, and you won't get thorough, complete readings from some of the other sensors--but you'd know which are not reporting at all. 3.  I spent 20+ years using a Snap-On MT or MTG 2500 scan tool I bought used on eBay. That will connect to Domestic vehicles from 1980 1/2 to 2008 or 2009, SOFTWARE DEPENDENT.  I had software from 80 1/2 to 2006 for Domestic, some Asian coverage 96--2005, and no European coverage at all.  These tools are very old, the MT2500 was first sold in the mid-to-late 1980s.  They're actually getting scarce on eBay, but they sell cheap.  You'll need the tool including software cartridges and connectors for whatever vehicle(s) you intend to use it on.  I don't really recommend the '2500 series any more unless you get it really cheap.  They quit making them while you were still in diapers. When I spilled gasoline on my MTG2500, I damaged it.  Replaced it with a Snap-On Solus Pro (Solus family started with the original Solus, replaced by the Solus Pro, replaced by the Solus Ultra, replaced by the Solus Edge, replaced by the current version--Solus Legend.  The prices increase as you move to progressively newer platforms; the prices increase as the included software gets newer, and the prices increase with the number of accessories--adapters/connectors, power cords/chargers, "Personality Keys" for OBD-II vehicles, etc.  The original Solus has 2014 or 2015 as the newest software version, Solus Pro support ended in 2017, I think.  Solus Ultra support supposedly ends the end of this year.)  So if you don't need coverage for newer vehicles, you could buy a tool with software only new enough to cover 2007 or whatever, at reduced price.  I paid about $350 for a Solus Pro with Domestic and Asian software good to 2007, with many but not all the adapters and cables, a battery and battery charger, and a bigass suitcase to carry it all in.  No European software or connectors.  This tool sold new in 2008, so I bought it ~13 years old. Depending on the scan tool software, and the vehicle it's connected to, a REAL scan tool will communicate with the engine computer, the body computer including transmission, ABS, air bags, instrument cluster, and more.  Older vehicles may only have engine, or engine + ABS. There are competing products to the Snap-On Solus line. I have zero experience with those products.  OTC has the Genysis and Pegysis, and there's Communist Chinese clones of the "official" GM scan tool--Tech II.  There's "consumer grade" tools from a dozen brand names.  And there's connector cables and software you can load onto any laptop for use as a scan tool. Point being, if you shop around on Craigslist, pawn shops, and eBay, you can get a (used) PROFESSIONAL-GRADE scan tool for a few hundred dollars.  Just be sure you get the connectors and software needed for the vehicles you're going to use it on.   There's a dozen things it "could" be.  Maybe two dozen.  Verify your fuel pressure.  Make sure the fuel filter isn't plugged, and the fuel pump/pump wire harness isn't defective.  Connect a scan tool, and find out which sensors work, and which don't. Have you checked all the fuses?  Maybe you popped the fuse for the computer; or the one that powers the injectors. A compression test could verify that the cam chain hasn't slipped, and that the valves still seal.  

raining hard yesterday night and this morning, wasn’t able to get back out to where it’s stuck. Currently the car just goes wom wom wom wom wom wom. For eternity (starter noises I am immitating) but does not actually start or even sound like it’s gonna. My head is a little spinning because I’m not smart enough to diagnose the issue right of the bat and I don’t know where to begin. I’ve got all the nessaxry equipment and parts to overhaul the cooling system, save for a few thing I will have soon. Nothing is leaking anywhere, fuel is in the rails, could this be a CPS sensor or coil pack? Will post sludge picks toda!

So much good stuff in this one! So to start I am 20 years old, basically a teenager but I have 2 kids so that makes me 69% dumber than you’re average one. I am definitely a beginner when it comes to mechanics and car diagnosis, but I am not completely unknowing. My previous project was a 1990 Pontiac Grand Prix SE, 3.1 MPFI, sunroof, grey leather 2+2. The motor was blown when I got it so I spent 9 months putting a new 3.1, and rebuilding damn near everything for it (with a lot of help from my bro Michael) that was when I was 16. Do you think the crank PS could have just gone out? I read it will not start if it’s completely bad that may be uneducated though. This whole ordeal is very odd to me because I did not experience any symptoms of anything, just the car dying and refusing to turn back on. It just goes wom wom wom wom wom wom when I start it but Nathan. Maybe a clogged TBS? THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH FOR THE HELP, I hope my bastard car one day becomes part of the family 

Having a hard time finding a code reader to read the car, when I worked at the auto body (Parts guy/Detailer) our scanners are much newer and non compatible, do you know of any OBD 1.5 readers? I’ve got a decent multimeter (learning to use) I just and unfamiliar with location of sensors and such right now. Thank you for helping me bro y’all are awesome