Forums

Watch those rear 3 spark plug wires, they need to be securely popped into place. I had one loose when I first bought my 94 3.4 vert and it ran like crap until I popped in the loose #1 plug. 

Change your procedure.  Stop replacing parts, start diagnosing.  The only parts you should be replacing are the sort of "tune-up" items that would be expected to fail after a normal service life. The Usual Three: Verify fuel pressure at prime, at idle, and under load. Most fuel pressure gauge assemblies have a push-button pressure release connected to crappy vinyl tubing. Route the tubing so it empties into a drain pan, then push the button while the engine is running. This simulates higher fuel demand if you can't check fuel pressure on the highway. Fuel pressure should remain steady even with fuel flowing down the pressure-relief tubing. TBI systems don't hold pressure when the pump stops running, but the other fuel injection styles should. How old is the fuel filter? Have you ever dumped a bottle of Chevron Techron Complete Fuel System Cleaner into the gas tank? (Recommended at every oil change.) How old are the usual “tune-up” parts and procedures? Inspect/replace plug wires, spark plugs. Use quality parts sourced from an authorized seller (NO COUNTERFEIT PARTS FROM AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SKETCHY SELLERS!) Be sure the ignition coils will reliably fire a spark-tester calibrated for HEI when the coils are fully warm, and misted with water from a squirt-bottle. Cranking compression test of all cylinders while the spark plugs are removed. Verify EGR, PCV, EVAP, and Heated Air Intake (if used) systems for proper operation. Verify proper electronic spark advance. Replace old O2 sensors unless you can PROVE that they're working properly—old O2 sensors get lazy, they don't provide accurate data, but they do provide “data” that fools people into thinking they're “working”. Connect a scan tool (NOT a crappy “code reader”) and look for “codes”. More important, look at the data stream to verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Verify fuel trims during the time that the vehicle is not running properly. Look for misfire counts for each cylinder (OBD2 only.) “Codes” have official diagnostic procedures that will be found in the service manual set for your vehicle.    

My alternator went so I changed it and when I started it up, it started to bog down and misfire. so I changed the EGR valve and the plugs,that still didn’t work, still misfiring and what should I change next ??

UPDATE:  This link proved useful:  Did this link get moved somewhere? http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/76462-Getrag-284-282-SS-braided-clutch-hydrualics-bleeding-procedure

Smart