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    1. W-body.com Announcements and News

      Updates and information regarding the W-body.com website.

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    2. New Member Introductions

      Welcome to our community! Introduce yourself to everyone here.

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  2. General W-Body Discussion

    1. FAQs and Technical Information

      'How-To' articles and basic information for those who are new to the W-Body platform.

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    2. General

      General W-Body Discussion

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    3. Powertrain

      Engine and Transmission Maintenance, Repair, and Performance

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    4. PCM Tuning

      Looking for tuning advice or need help reading a scan? Need help getting your tuning software up and running? This is the place for you.

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    5. Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires

      This is the place to talk about brakes, suspension, lowering, wheels, tires, basically everything that affects your car's ride and handling.

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    6. Car Audio

      Need help putting a system into your W-body? Talk about it here!

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    7. Appearance/Car Care

      Body work, paint care, interior/exterior cleaning, detailing tips and tricks.

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  3. Specialty Forums

    1. Turbo Grand Prix

      This forum is for enthusiasts of the rare 1989-90 Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo.

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    2. Cutlass Supreme Convertible

      A forum for information and discussion about the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible

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  • Posts

    • carkhz316
      So when the alternator fails to receive voltage control from the ECM, it'll default to 13.8 as a fail-safe strategy. This lower system voltage is what you are seeing as a symptom of the problem. In regards to the DTC you're getting, there are two different symptom bytes which are key for diagnosis: "66" which is you have the sensor installed backwards or "08" for signal invalid. The latter can be either from a bad sensor (just because its new doesn't mean its good) or a wiring issue. The battery sensor is a 3 wire hall effect that has a voltage reference (12V+), as well as a signal and low reference (ground) to the BCM. If you're confident the sensor is good and oriented correctly, then I would check the wiring.
    • GnatGoSplat
      It's possible, but not simple bolt-on.  Miko K has done it on his highly modified Cutlass.  
    • GnatGoSplat
      Looks like a good mod to do. They use the same oddball bi-pin bulbs in the Cutlass Supreme spoiler rack as well. I would recommend using red LEDs, even behind a red lens.  You'll get a better color, especially since LEDs are a cooler color than the original halogens and tend to look even more faded behind a red lens than halogens. The 194 socket will also fit larger T15 sized bulbs since they have the same wedge base.  You can use 921 LED replacements for more brightness which is always a good thing with brake lights.  I've tested some 921 LED replacements that are insanely bright.  
    • GnatGoSplat
      Frame rot, damn.  He said it was rust-free when he got it.  I guess 8 years of Ohio winters was too many.  
    • Mo.
      It's at around 151k right now, unfortunately with the frame rot probably won't make it much longer. I bought it at 135k so I had fun with it while I could.
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