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It's dusty........but not rusty. Nice climate in Peru.

That's awesome, I often wish my Cutlass could end up somewhere exotic and I could live vicariously through it. 🤣

I didn't find any other part # other than 10087630 for a 93 Regal with the old "3.1 MULTI PORT FI".  Is it the original engine?  ManicMechanic mentioned above Beretta got a 3-port.  I found the Beretta p/n is 10146861. If the rubber block is badly deteriorated, might just have to use a lot of RTV to fill it. A quick Google search and I wasn't able to find generic rubber hose barbs either.  A couple ideas off the top of my head (no idea if they'd actually work): 1. Find some hose with the OD approximately the size of the holes in the TB, and ID approximately the size of the plastic tubing.  Shove the plastic tube into a short piece of hose and shove that hose into TB. 2. You could try one of those press-fit O-ring ends into the TB with a barb on the other side.  I'd guess they come in different sizes, though that'll probably be hours of research to find them in the right sizes. 3. Or a non-reversible solution could be to tap out the holes in the TB piece and use metal threaded ends barbs. Although in both cases you'd need a short length of rubber hose to connect it to to the existing plastic vacuum lines. I would probably try my idea #1 first.

would any one know how to get a 3 port vacuum harness? ive got a 93 Buick regal with a 3.1 multiport Fi and i need a 3 port. i cant find any parts diagrams anywhere with a 3 port, and no junkyard within 30 miles of me even has an old 3100 engine that i can look at. ive found plenty of 3700 and 3800 of different makes and models, but none even have a 4 port harness. mine was badly rotted from never being touched for 30 years and ive lost powered brakes, my ac selector no longer works and my power steering locks up whenever i give it around half or more than a half press of my brake peddle, causing me to almost crash every time i have to make a turn without stopping fully. im going mad trying to search for it, every idiot behind a parts counter at every auto parts shop have no clue what im talking about and i can not for the life of me find a part number for a 3 port, i cant find any diagrams with a 3 port, and no one sells anything but a "do it yourself kit" with hose barbs and universal hose i have to cut to length

Yep, that tracks. The 7727/7730 confusion trips up a lot of people because the guts and calibration family overlap, but the packaging and mounting are what matter in the W-body. For CuttyBawl’s case I’d still verify the MEM-CAL broadcast code before trusting any ADX/XDF combo, especially with a reman ECM sticker involved. For scanning only, the right data stream/mask matters more than the XDF, so if it’s truly a 1990 LH0 he should be looking at $88 stuff first, not just grabbing A109 because it “sort of connects.” For tuning, yeah, starting from $A1 makes sense if you know what you’re changing, but I wouldn’t send a first-timer down that rabbit hole until the idle fault is sorted mechanically. OBD1 will happily let you chase ghosts all weekend, ask me how I know.