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I honestly don't know if they're low drag or not. I've never seen anything referencing that in SI or anywhere. I did find in the meantime, a thread by Miko K where he uses a 2nd/ 3rd gen MC with a 1" bore and installed it in his Cutlass. The biggest difference being two line outputs instead of 4, but he T'd them on the car to split the 2 channels to feed the 4 corners.

"Bigger" master cylinder bore = less hydraulic advantage. If you have low-drag front calipers, you NEED the OEM three-chamber, step-bore, Quick Take-Up master cylinder.  But I don't know if you have low-drag calipers.

The Monte is pretty simple and old school. All the warning lights are just regular 194 light bulbs. So I was just planning on removing the ABS light bulb and the EBCM. I was curious about the MC bore sizes, since bigger would typically be better unless I'm overlooking something.  

Since you're already disks, and using the 1st gen booster, I'd grab a 1st gen master cylinder and re-do the lines as needed.     Only thing I'm not entirely sure has been ever discussed has been the bore size of the master.  I see there is 7/8 and a 15/16 size bore.  I'd ensure you're getting the biggest bore for the disks.    Otherwise - not sure on tuning or flashing the BCM to de-activate the ABS so you don't have a light on at all times.  

What I used for bushings is simple rubber vibration isolator pad material (the pad was approx 12" square), up here we have a *Princess Auto* hardware/automotive supply store, Harbor Freight *might* have something similar, using my table saw I cut the bushings to the same basic shape as the original molded bushing glued to the leaf & removed the material in the inner section to make  the *pocket*. One has to do them in two pieces (upper & lower).  One can *fine tune* the installed height of the new spring by adjusting the upper bushings thickness, but both bushings have to be no thicker than necessary to allow the spring to go into place & tighten up the lower mounting retainer to let it bottom against the stop.  Seeing as the blank leaves are 3" wide (that's wider than the glas leaf in the centre section at the mounting points) I used my 5" angle grinder with a flap wheel to notch small recesses into the edges of the steel where the pads will go to allow the mounting bolts to slide up either side of the leaves up into the  subframe member. All of this wasn't difficult, it just took time & patience. If you've never removed the rear leaf without the special spring compressor there is a way to get it out without to much fuss.