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Moving the trans selector into any gear gets you no vehicle movement? When in any selected gear do you hear any sort of whining that changes pitch & volume as you increase engine rpm (altho you're not moving)? That would be a sign that the trans pump is/has failed. It's no longer producing any needed pressure to supply to the valve body/clutches to properly operate the trans.

Ok, yes, it does still function without it. I installed the new shift interlock solenoid, and it worked great. Too great. When i tried running the shifter through the gears, it worked fine. Until I tried to pull the key out of the ignition. It was stuck like glue. I tried every trick I knew and a few other people knew. Key wiggling, shifter pushing, steering wheel cranking to the far sides, disconnecting the battery, pushing on the interlock cable, pulling on the interlock cable, and a few more I can't remember right now. After leaving the car in the parking lot with its key in it last night (hung a roll of black gorilla tape over the key. It wouldn't go anywhere if they did get in and start it, anyway). Today I pulled the dash apart to try to get to the ignition switch so I could pull the tumbler cylinder out and work on it that way. As I was triggering the cable, I watched it as i pulled the shifter trigger button that releases the shift interlock solenoid. I reached down and grabbed the dead end of the cable on the back of the rocker that pulls it, I found that there was enough slack in the cable that i could pull it another 3/32" more cable past the point of where the rocker pulled it to. I tried pulling the key out and it came out! Apparently, the cable/wirehas stretched. I tried to figure out a way to crimp something on or adjust the rocker that pulls the cable, thinking maybe a lead fishing sinker crimped on there may work. But then I thought about the grandkids having it come uncrimped or slide up and going back to square one, so I disconnected the ignition switch end of the cable from its housing and it worked. I then thought, well, if that works, I wonder if it even needs the solenoid on there, so I tried it with the solenoid off. Still works. I checked for dash warning lights, went through the gears and it still functions fine. So the $80 solenoid is going back for a refund. I was a little worried about the car starting in gear, but it won't. It will start in park and neutral, but not in any of the driving gears, including reverse. I'm going to get them a new cable and install it sometime, but for now, it's fixed. Sort of. At least I don't have to buy a $200 ignition tumbler and have it recoded. Now, I just have to figure out what's wrong with the tranny. The shift cable is good and is switching through all the positions at the arm on top of the transmission, but it's not engaging in any gears and neutral isn't letting me role any. But at least the key isn't stuck anymore and I think I've fixed the problem with the shifter. Onward, to the next problem!

Ok, thanks. I will attempt to check that. The shift interlock solenoid and maf sensor came in yesterday, and I have a pcv valve and hose coming in today. To be honest, I'm ready to have it towed to the transmission shop. I've been working on another grandson's '13 vw passat for weeks after he tore up his front end. I'm getting worn down with all these unexpected problems. And I've decided it's my last run as family mechanic. For me, anyway, it's one thing to confront a problem I'm familiar with and fix it, but the constant sinking new parts and time into things that seem to have unexplainable reasons to not work has burned me out. I take my Silverado 3500 diesel to my mechanic when the problems are over my skill level. But I still like working on my '51 Chevy 3100 since it doesn't have lots of unnecessary electrical details. 

The *Neutral Safety Switch* doesn't have a single *install & forget it* position, the switch can be rotated. The switch slides down over the selector lever that extends above the trans casing, one has to rotate the switch assembly into the correct position & lock it down for accurate trans shifting. One usually does so from the park position. If it's been moved it can cause what you're experiencing.      

I've got a 240a mechman alternator and need a shorter serpentine belt for my 5.3L GXP. Does anyone know where to buy one from?