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  1. 94 olds vert

    94 olds vert

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  2. jiggity76

    jiggity76

    Contributing Member


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  3. l67ss

    l67ss

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      32

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  4. rich_e777

    rich_e777

    Contributing Member


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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2024 in all areas

  1. 55trucker

    Z34 steering sensor.

    *It basically adjust the steering feel when going thru a parking lot and then tightens up when on the highway or Interstate*. almost......lol, not quite.... the sensor is there to 1. disengage the a/c .... 2. send a signal to the ecm to raise the engine rpm when the vehicle speed is so slow that the engine rpm is to low to adequately assist the needed power steering pressure. When the pressure in the system drops to a pre determined pressure that switch opens, the ecm *sees* that & raises the engine rpm to increase the pump rpm & power steering pressure. The sensor is referred to as Idle Speed Power Steering Pressure Switch
    4 points
  2. rich_e777

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    LMAO, I meant to post this on another forum discussing old lawnmowers! They dont know what I`m talking about over there either.
    3 points
  3. I know I have one NOS in my my Parts Stash, and theres another member wanting to buy some parts out of that box... I just gotta find it in my garage.. Kids... Dont hoard stuff.. When you want something, you will NEVER find it!
    3 points
  4. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    149,996mi I`m thinking about registering for a spot at the Good Guys show in Lebanon, TN next month. Its now open to all American cars `99 and earlier.
    3 points
  5. waysideskateco

    1991 Grand Prix SE

    Hello, I’m new here but wanted to take the first step toward posting. As you can see in the title I have a 1991 Grand Prix. I just finished getting my DIY exhaust mocked up and ready to weld and I will try to post pictures of it soon as well as other things. I have all new KYB struts and just ordered the rest of the parts I need to build rear coil overs, with the intention of lowering the car a lot. Will start a thread on that soon. Glad to be here.
    3 points
  6. carkhz316

    LS4 swap begins

    Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I don't get online as much these days. Anyway, that question is hard for me to answer because I can't comment to the expense and value aspect as I just wanted to always do the LS4 swap. I didn't have any real budget or horsepower goal in mind. I simply wanted to do it to prove to myself that I could. If someone is going for straight power vs cost, it would probably be cheapest to turbo a 3800, and blow the LS4 away. But for me, yes, it was 'worth' it to just do it and have it work.
    2 points
  7. johnnynotell

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Thanks for getting back to me. I found a bad injector. It wouldn’t start. Had a na 3.1 back in the day that died while driving and ended up being a shorted injector. Also got the knock sensor out. Broke the clip though. Squeezed to hard I guess. When I get it back together I’ll post if it runs better. I think the exhaust leak is all crossover! If it at least runs better I will work on pulling that out next to have an exhaust shop fix it hopefully. If anyone still has a step by step on the remove and install of the crossover please post it if you can. All links are dead looking for this stuff these days. Also does anyone have an old chip they would sell for the ecm? Those links and people who did them are gone also. Sure would like to get some more hp if I get her running good.
    2 points
  8. GTP091

    Erratic Engine Revs

    Running rich could be all kinds of things. The car is dumping fuel in to balance out something wrong. A good shop can still pull data from the ecm. That’s really the only way if you’re not going to wrench it yourself. Could be a bad O2 sensor., vac line leak, FPR is shot, even a bad temp sensor can make the ecm run the car rich.
    2 points
  9. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Cam is in, got engine bay cleaned up and wires wrapped a little better, exhaust painted aswell
    2 points
  10. White93z34

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Welcome to the forum! First things first, get that crossover replaced, that will cause all kinds of running issues with it. Exhaust leaks wreck how these cars run. A point of advise, probably not relevant at the moment but I seem to remember decreasing the spark plug gap from whatever the factory recommends to help with some other running issues. There is only one person i'm aware of who repairs those at this point. Forum member GOT2BGM aka Matt Shantz he's not on the forum much these days I'm sure he's active on the various facebook w body groups but regardless i'll shoot him a message to drop by the forum.
    2 points
  11. JGP

    1995 Cutlass Vert - Assistance Identifying and locating part

    So sorry, here I am asking for help and I go off the radar. Here is the pic...it looks like it's attached to the glass actually. I've attached also a pic of the car - such as shame as everything is perfect on it, 13,000 original miles. Love to get this fixed. Sorry the pic looks so huge.
    2 points
  12. White93z34

    Z34 steering sensor.

    Pretty sure every one of these cars use this
    2 points
  13. 55trucker

    Z34 steering sensor.

    yes indeed...
    2 points
  14. jiggity76

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    You're welcome.
    2 points
  15. jiggity76

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I'm still learning things almost daily about these cars. With me going this in depth for my car restorations, it has forced me to learn how these cars are put together and the proper and correct ways of doing repairs, etc.
    1 point
  16. cutlassman

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    Same here, having owned my ‘92 for 24 years now, there’s a lot I’ve learned!
    1 point
  17. 89SE

    89 GP SE Instrument cluster repair 25122113

    In this post @RobertISaar can't remember what the other black pad is for on the white resistor IC, but at least he has not seen them causing issues.
    1 point
  18. 89SE

    89 GP SE Instrument cluster repair 25122113

    @jiggity76, a remanufactured cluster would be a solution, after some odometer transplantation work to keep the mileage of course. I assume that a remanufactured one will also have just a resistor added in order to replace the faulty one between pin 4 and 10 on the infamous white resistor IC (I do not think any 100% accurate original ones still exist). I should maybe ask the Ebay seller if they indeed fix them like that, if it's not to much of a trade secret. As said in my initial post, I live in Europe, so by the time all transport and taxes are paid, a replacement cluster is quite expensive, knowing that repairing my cluster is possible with some soldering work and a 1$ resistor. So that seems to be the best option in case a neat & quick solution is not available (like a replacement for the white resistor IC as Batee makes for Corvettes, or a circuit board as can be found for many other models on https://www.cajuntachshop.com/ ). So I'll try to do that fix, many others on the internet did just that with success. But I remain curious about the effect of degradation of the other black field on the white resistor IC and any documentation would be welcome, I only have the service manual of the car.
    1 point
  19. 55trucker

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Try not to give into the habit of *throwing money at the problem*. Purchasing unnecessary part is a waste of money........ The code 43 may not necessarily be the knock sensor itself but an issue with the harness or possibly the ECM. Seeing as you have the code 53 (system overvoltage) if you know beyond a doubt that the alternators regulated output is approx 14.2 when the engine is running then the ECM could be the source of the issue.
    1 point
  20. Human

    New Water Pump for the '95 Vert

    So, a few weeks ago, I was driving my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible over to a friend's house, and the car started running a little hot, not overheating, but hotter than I was comfortable with. When I got back home, I looked under the hood, the overflow jug was empty and things were quite wet down by the water pump. It was right at the end of the spring semester, so I just didn't have time to mess with it, beyond pouring in a gallon of antifreeze until today, when I sent it over to my mechanic's shop, and amazingly, he had a water pump for it sitting on the shelf, had the whole thing done in less than four hours. That just never happens. Even better, it was a comparatively inexpensive repair. He was a little afraid there might have been head gasket damage, but everything checked out okay in the end. The best part was the repair was a bit less expensive than I expected. He ballparked it at around $280-$400, and it came in at $281 and change. I'm stoked that I don't have to miss anymore prime convertible weather.
    1 point
  21. kcac

    New Water Pump for the '95 Vert

    How many special tools have you had to aquire? I bought a Kent-Moore GM 3.4 DOHC tool kit off of EBay years ago, but haven't looked in a while to see what is available anymore.
    1 point
  22. Schurkey

    Erratic Engine Revs

    An "OBD2 scanner" doesn't work on a '95, because '95 is not OBD2. Therefore, you'd need a scan tool compatible with what is now known as "OBD1". They tend to be more expensive, and need a different adapter/connector for every brand of vehicle since there's dozens of proprietary connector bodies on the vehicles. Every manufacturer used a different style of connnector. GM alone had several depending on application. A decent scan tool will work with GM products from 1980 1/2, onward to the limit of their software--often post-2000, perhaps all the way to 2024. Mine goes up to 2007, but since I don't own a vehicle newer than 2003, I'm all set.
    1 point
  23. Amanita

    Erratic Engine Revs

    I don't have experience with the older on board computers but a standard OBD2 scanner will not fit a pre-96 car. It's a different system.
    1 point
  24. jiggity76

    Downpipe.

    Has anyone used one of these? https://www.ebay.com/itm/404754218886?epid=169594596&itmmeta=01HXN86SDHPDG0QC354JY4A2JH&hash=item5e3d3b3f86:g:hNcAAOSwLX9lx9Ja&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwB1bYArsSNNQTeXRP0konEpGR207mbIaDI8geL2Bbyet%2Fp16sFpjEYFKKUSMthFDxpvVSOoL2cL03Gpo2fAz5ukJfFaqnLMZH4YY6450FiMDkVSnE0jReCnJkhYvk8UBp8b%2Bw7lP6O14KDnrKwhIvt%2BK7qUTQqfdkSEceFgYt3aDMIF4KoBo3jA03sEMv%2BxnCLiZq076jyHBWct%2FD1ZeaAzgU%2BBWE1HmQ3OHD00iYIP5bZgT4H4Lb8SSCaI6x6MAYQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR-yWm6jtYw
    1 point
  25. jiggity76

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Which gasket are you referring too? The ones that match up to the exhaust manifolds or headers?
    1 point
  26. Amanita

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    That's a good looking TGP you have there. I don't have a TGP, my Grand Prix is from '96, but red with the spoiler is exactly how I would want mine.
    1 point
  27. 55trucker

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Possibly, the turbo is a Garrett T25/28 series... do a search for the turbo flange gasket for that model turbo, I'd imagine that they are still a common item. I've been out of Chrysler turbo cars for some time now.
    1 point
  28. rich_e777

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    As for impossible to find exhaust gaskets, could this Fel-Pro stuff be cut to fit? https://www.jegs.com/i/Fel-Pro/375/2499/10002/-1
    1 point
  29. johnnynotell

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Thank you guys for chiming in. I do need those to diagnose better. The fuel injectors are coming and I did replace the alternator for the high voltage. I must have code 43 wrong 55 trucker. I came up with knock sensor error. I will look into it better. Nice to meet you Rich with the tgp. Not to look too far ahead but how did you go about fixing the crossover? I plan to remove it and take it to an exhaust shop and have them do their magic. Thinking I should buy a couple of these flex pipe things. Not sure the diameter of the pipe yet though.
    1 point
  30. 55trucker

    Tgp exhaust leak under hood and runs rich

    Code 21 = TPS sensor circuit Code 43= ESC (electronic spark control) circuit Code 53 = system over voltage.........occurs when the ECM sees an ignition fuel reference of more than 17 volts.
    1 point
  31. GTP091

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Hey Brad. I saw both of those GTPs on Facebook marketplace. I live in Kelowna so check often (looking for parts always). I’d pull the trigger on the blue GTP just because I love that colour on a GTP. I checked just now though and can’t find it so maybe it is sold. The white GTP is back up for 4500 I’ve never seen it around Kelowna so not sure if it’s like mine and just sits most of the time. It has the B4U lower valance intact so that’s a huge plus. You could probably get the seller to move on the price. GTPs of this era hardly ever come up in BC so you should pounce. You might not ever see another in that shape again around here. As for 5speeds. I’ve only ever come across 3 of them in my life. And 2 of those 3 transmissions are on my bench and took 15 years to score way back. I have all the parts for a swap and slowly working towards an engine rebuild and install. Forget the 5 speed it’s a true unicorn now, was 20 years ago. Even if you found a complete junk parts car all your efforts are best placed to just get an auto to restore over time and enjoy. I would look carefully at the trailing arm mounts for rust, if it’s solid there go for either car. If you get the white one painting the hood louvers white should be your first order of business. just heat the screws up before you take ‘em out.
    1 point
  32. White93z34

    Bob

    No, there is not.
    1 point
  33. 55trucker

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    GM Nationals?
    1 point
  34. rich_e777

    `89 TGP joining the collection

    Thanks again, we`re going to have to get all these cars together at some point so you can check it out. Its been years since a meet up happened. Shes going to the show, May 17-19. I`m going to try to find some seat covers that fit good and might give that dash cover a shot on RA to hide the crack. The paint might not be in the best of shape with the orange peel and fading wheel arches and I`m not the best at talking with strangers but it should be a good time.
    1 point
  35. Schurkey

    Swapping out rod bearings without taking engine out

    Doing that "in the chassis" would never happen in MY driveway. That engine would come OUT, so I didn't have to work on my back like a prostitute for the whole job. Flip the engine over on an engine stand, rather than flipping the worker over on the concrete. Likely get a better job done with the main seal, pan gaskets, etc. High mileage? Timing set, rings, head gaskets and valve job. MAYBE bore + pistons, crank grind, block decking...
    1 point
  36. 94 olds vert

    Swapping out rod bearings without taking engine out

    It appears you can raise the engine enough to clear the oil pan with the subframe in place on a 3100.
    1 point
  37. Nick727

    Radio replacement in Cutlass 93

    So the aftermarket radio my cutlass came with from the previous owner is awful and I hate it. Luckily they did use the wire adapter and didn't hack up the factory harness. I just purchased Joying Android 10.0 Head Unit Octa Core 4GB+64GB 7 Inch Single Din from Amazon and should be at my house on this sunday. I will post pre and post install pictures for everyone on here. I'm just going to be reusing the harness and install kit that was already there. I will give updates down the road of my likes and dislikes of the new head unit. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. (I hated my radio enough that I decided to replace it before I fixed my top lol)
    1 point
  38. 55trucker

    Caster alignment on 1g w bodies

    Yeah, that's it Greg, up here in the salt belt they are prone to rotting out if not coated to protect them.
    1 point
  39. 55trucker

    Caster alignment on 1g w bodies

    Personally, get a decent set of tires on Before you get an alignment done. The PS return line is an extended length piping, there are two sections to it, the shorter section is at the ps pump, it feeds down the front of the engine, there is a flexible hose on the end that connects to the major return piping that then feeds around the subframe to the front portion in front of the oilpan, then back along the same route all the way back to the rack. It's the total length of the return line that acts as a cooler for the fluid. Without any more info on your steering components condition I'll say this........when these cars were new there were issues with the steering wheel having a shimmy when *on center*, our car wasn't free of this issue, when at 8,000kms the steering developed that shimmy. It went back to the dealer who on the 1st visit replaced the ps pump thinking that the relief valve was fluttering, on the 2nd visit replaced the rack thinking the pressure seals inside were defective, on the 3rd visit removed all of the extended return piping to shorten up the distance between the rack & the ps pump in an effort to settle down any fluctuations in pressure. Doing #3 solved the issue with the shimmy. But that doesn't necessarily mean that doing #3 first could've/would've solved the issue.
    1 point
  40. 55trucker

    Caster alignment on 1g w bodies

    ^ Greg, what fluid are you making use of in the steering system? trans fluid or power steering fluid? Trans fluid is NOT the proper fluid for the system. It generally has a lower viscosity than power steering fluid, due to the friction modifiers can cause a whining in the pump, over time can ruin the seals in the rack, ps fluid is thicker & the system will function smoother. Seeing as the car is equipped with the 3.4 LQ1 is the original return line with the cooler extension in there? are you getting any sort of shimmy in the steering wheel when on center ( car is going straight)?
    1 point
  41. White93z34

    Buick Regal LS Swap

    Its enough work that you may as well just buy an LS4 car and call it a day. Unless you have access to the entire parts car its probably not worth the cost and trouble. And even then with the 4t65e they bolted to the LS4 its not a matter of if but when it gets demolished and needs a rebuild.
    1 point
  42. bluecalais79

    1994 Cutlass Supreme - Door Lock Receiver Replacement

    I finally got around to replacing my dead power door lock receiver. This is a real stinker of a job, there is a myriad of parts you have to remove enroute to getting at the small black box receiver which (on the coupes) is located next to the rear passengers side speaker behind the rear seatback. And you risk breaking any of them along the way. The manual advised that either the upper passengers side or the upper drivers side plastic trim that goes along the rear windows up the C pillar needs to be removed. Well, no way was I going to do that. I managed to get the rear seat to rear window trim panel off without removing those pieces. That was a bit of good luck, I guess. IMHO this was a ridiculous place to put this receiver. I decided to relocate the box to rest on top of the inner fender well in the trunk, using some gorilla tape to hold it on. All covered up by the interior trunk carpet. There is plenty of wire to make this happen, no cutting/splicing needed. Now, if that receiver croaks, this will be a 10 minute fix instead of a 3 hour headache. The only thing I broke was one push pin clip, and I am having a heck of a time finding even that. I programmed the transmitters and all is working just fine, mission accomplished.
    1 point
  43. Nick727

    93 ACC questions...

    Mine's still working, which is a good thing since I can't find one.:( Guess I'll keep my eyes open for a replacement as I'm sure I'll need one at some point. In the mean time I get to try and figure out why my top will go down but not up on it's own. lol
    1 point
  44. jiggity76

    Z34 steering sensor.

    Does anyone know if the 91-93 Z34's uses a speed sensor mounted on the steering racks? I know the GP and Cutlass did. It's part # 10096157/10204102 if they used them. Thank you.
    1 point
  45. jiggity76

    1991 Grand Prix SE

    1 point
  46. Bake82

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Here are some 5 speed stats for you. I think finding the cleanest car body wise you can auto or 5 speed would be your best bet. even if it needs mechanical work, that can be done overtime.
    1 point
  47. Bake82

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    If it's financially feasible, this may be a good opportunity to drop the pan and have easy access to the steering rack, motor/trans mounts, power steering lines and replace those as well if there is any sign of failure. I would only patch the oil pan if it'd welded shut. Not sure how good of a weld you could get on the oil pan with it on the car and not being able to clean the oil pan super well.
    1 point
  48. White93z34

    ABS ?

    I've done it both ways. Doing a factory vacuum swap is a gigantic pain, but possible if you want to pull the dashboard apart and most of the engine bay. It also comes with issues of its own. the factory non ABS master is at a different angle to PMIII and comes VERY close to the turbo. I've thought about this and in my junkyard trips it looks like J and N cars of the era used the same master but angled up slightly, that may help the issue of it being close to the Turbo but it may also bring its own set of issues. never done it but its been on the back of my mind. Also you'll need to run 2 new rear brake lines. making absolutely sure to not get them backwards since you'll no longer be running a Front-Rear Split setup but a Cross- diagonal so the Front left needs to be on the same side of the master as right rear and front right needs to be on the same side as left rear. You can't get away with just one as the factory rear brake line is 1/4" or something like that and standard are much smaller. What I did on my Red Turbo GP was remove everything PMIII off the firewall and use a 4th gen F body booster and master. It has the advantage of also being Front rear split so you don't have to mess with the brake lines to the rear of the car and it can be done in a day or 2, not weeks. What I did, and I know others have done it differently I made an adapter plate of aluminum to bolt to the factory bolts then put my own holes in for the F body booster. You DO have to cut holes in your factory firewall plate for this. and in the future i'd do it a bit different and cut most of it away so I could access the booster bolts easily from the inside of the car I did have to cut and extend the pushrod from the booster so it was the same length as PMIII Was. Just cut and welded that. I considered threading the rod and putting a turnbuckle on it to get it proper. Now the fun part is the brake lines. Since we live in america getting metric fittings is a bigger pain then it should be. I changed everything to 1/4 fittings, took the front brake lines and put them into a t fitting, and then made a brake line to go from that to the master. For the rear I also changed the fittings to SAE but then put it into a reducer to get the size of the line down to fit into the master, again just made and extension tube to get it how it needed to be. Not the cleanest part of the install but it does work quite well. If I ever get around to working on TGPs again i'll be doing this same modification to my Black TGP as I fully believe PMIII is not fit for purpose at this point. I'll revisit the modification at that time and fine tune it then.
    1 point
  49. I wonder if Jason still has that car. I loved it. I loved Josh's too though - I still have a ton of old emails from him back when I was thinking of doing the 5-speed swap. Such a good guy.
    1 point
  50. Crazy K

    Digital UB3 install in 94 CS with analog UB3

    HERE YOU GO: this is the typical wiring for the digital UB3: 1990 digital UB3 CS cluster CONNECTOR PIN# WIRE COLOR FUNCTION dUB3-C1 PNK/BLK INDICator FUSE circuit, hot in run, bulb test, and start (+) dUB3-C2 LT BLU left turn indicator (+) dUB3-C3 DK BLU right turn indicator (+) dUB3-C4 TAN/WHT brake indicator (-) dUB3-C5 GRY/WHT "Antilock" indicator dUB3-C6 TAN/BLK shift indicator (-) dUB3-C7 LT GRN high beam indicator (+) dUB3-C8 --- not used --- dUB3-C9 --- not used --- dUB3-C10 YEL VF display dim enable (+ to enable dimming) dUB3-C11 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+) dUB3-C12 --- not used --- dUB3-C13 ORN Serial data link to aldl (for tach and data) dUB3-C14 BLK.WHT ground dUB3-C15 --- not used --- dUB3-C16 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit hot in run (+) CONNECTOR PIN# WIRE COLOR FUNCTION dUB3-D1 BLK ground for indicator bulbs dUB3-D2 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator dUB3-D3 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator dUB3-D4 BRN "charge indicator" dUB3-D5 BRN/WHT "service Engine Soon" indicator dUB3-D6 --- not used --- dUB3-D7 --- not used --- dUB3-D8 --- not used --- dUB3-D9 LT/BLU english metric switch ouput(switch part of cluster) dUB3-D10 BRN/WHT VF dimmer input dUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure sensor input dUB3-D12 DK GRN/WHT coolant temperature sensor input dUB3-D13 PPL fuel level sender input dUB3-D14 --- not used --- dUB3-D15 DK GRN VSS speedometer input dUB3-D16 ORN ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, cluster memory (+) ************** 1994 analog UB3 CS cluster CONNECTOR PIN# WIRE COLOR FUNCTION 94aUB3-C1 TAN/WHT brake indicator 94aUB3-C2 WHT tachometer input 94aUB3-C3 GRY illumination (adjustable backlighting) 94aUB3-C4 PPL fuel level sender input 94aUB3-C5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input 94aUB3-C6 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C7 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C8 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C9 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C10 BLK ground 94aUB3-C11 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) 94aUB3-C12 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C13 BRN Hot in run,ignition feed for gages 94aUB3-C14 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C15 PNK hot in (+) 94aUB3-C16 DK GRN coolant temperature sensor input CONNECTOR PIN# WIRE COLOR FUNCTION 94aUB3-D1 BRN Check Gauges output to HUD unit 94aUB3-D2 BRN Airbag (SIR) warning signal 94aUB3-D3 --- not used --- 94aUB3-D4 LT BLU left turn indicator (+) 94aUB3-D5 LT GRN high beam indicator (+) 94aUB3-D6 DK BLU right turn indicator (+) 94aUB3-D7 BLK ground 94aUB3-D8 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator 94aUB3-D9* GRY "security" (VATS) indicator(1994 ONLY) 94aUB3-D10 --- not used --- 94aUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure input 94aUB3-D12 --- not used --- 94aUB3-D13 LTGRN/BLK Antilock indicator 94aUB3-D14 YEL/BLK low coolant level indicator 94aUB3-D15 BRN charge indicator feed (sets check gauges indicator) 94aUB3-D16 BRN/WHT Service Engine Soon indicator *different pinouts between 92-93 and 94 analog cluster, you cannot substitute a 92-93 cluster for a 94 without loosing these critical indicators. 1990 digital UB3 CS cluster into a 94 Analog UB3 cluster equipped car: dUB3-C1 PNK/BLK INDICator FUSE circuit, hot in run, bulb test, and start (+) pending! dUB3-C2 LT BLU left turn indicator (+) 94aUB3-D4 LT BLU left turn indicator (+) dUB3-C3 DK BLU right turn indicator (+) 94aUB3-D6 DK BLU right turn indicator (+) dUB3-C4 TAN/WHT brake indicator (-) 94aUB3-C1 TAN/WHT brake indicator dUB3-C5 GRY/WHT "Antilock" indicator 94aUB3-D13 LTGRN/BLK Antilock indicator dUB3-C6 TAN/BLK shift indicator (-) not present, UNUSED. dUB3-C7 LT GRN high beam indicator (+) 94aUB3-D5 LT GRN high beam indicator (+) dUB3-C8 --- not used --- dUB3-C9 --- not used --- dUB3-C10 YEL VF display dim enable (+ to enable dimming) INFO PENDING!!! dUB3-C11 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) (+) 94aUB3-C3 & 94aUB3-C11 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) dUB3-C12 --- not used --- dUB3-C13 ORN Serial data link to aldl (for tach and data) you must run this wire to the ALDL connector TAN wire. dUB3-C14 BLK.WHT ground 94aUB3-C10 OR 94aUB3-D7 BLK ground dUB3-C15 --- not used --- dUB3-C16 PNK/BLK CLUSTER FUSE circuit hot in run (+) INFO PENDING!!! dUB3-D1 BLK ground for indicator bulbs 94aUB3-C10 OR 94aUB3-D7 BLK ground dUB3-D2 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator 94aUB3-D8 YEL fasten seatbelt indicator dUB3-D3 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator 94aUB3-D14 YEL/BLK "low coolant" level indicator dUB3-D4 BRN "charge indicator" 94aUB3-D15 BRN charge indicator feed (sets check gauges indicator) dUB3-D5 BRN/WHT "service Engine Soon" indicator 94aUB3-D16 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon" indicator dUB3-D6 --- not used --- dUB3-D7 --- not used --- dUB3-D8 --- not used --- dUB3-D9 LT/BLU english metric switch ouput(switch part of cluster) dUB3-D10 BRN/WHT VF dimmer input dUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure sensor input 94aUB3-D11 TAN oil pressure sensor input dUB3-D12 DK GRN/WHT coolant temperature sensor input 94aUB3-C16 DK GRN coolant temperature sensor input dUB3-D13 PPL fuel level sender input 94aUB3-C4 PPL fuel level sender input dUB3-D14 --- not used --- dUB3-D15 DK GRN VSS speedometer input 94aUB3-C5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input dUB3-D16 ORN ELEC FUSE circuit, constant hot, cluster memory (+) RUN TO RADIO CONSTANT HOT WIRE MUST ADD!!! 94aUB3-D9* GRY "security" (VATS) indicator(1994 ONLY) 94aUB3-D2 BRN Airbag (SIR) warning signal(1994 ONLY) 94aUB3-C13 BRN Hot in run,ignition feed for gages 94aUB3-C15 PNK hot in (+) ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? NOT USED: CONNECTOR PIN# WIRE COLOR FUNCTION 94aUB3-C2 WHT tachometer input (ANALOG) 94aUB3-D1 BRN Check Gauges output to HUD unit 94aUB3-C6 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C7 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C8 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C9 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C12 --- not used --- 94aUB3-C14 --- not used --- 94aUB3-D3 --- not used --- 94aUB3-D10 --- not used --- 94aUB3-D12 --- not used ---
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