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hello All It's been a few years, my last visit to this forum was 4 yrs ago, I owned a 95 vert then I got myself another convertible, very clean one...I've had it for about 2yrs now This one is a 93, super clean no rust at all compared to my 95 I had, elderly couple owned and as much as I hate the LQ1 engines, I think its the car good looks that keeps drawing me closer to them how I wish we could fit a trusty V8 iron in these cars I haven't done much to this car at all, compared to my previous 95 where (George from the forum here) and I did some work on our cars few years ago I did however modify the stock air box to improve flow, I took out the driver side high beam out and shaved off a few inches off the air box to align it closer to the high beam hole, car looked like it was missing a tooth so I took the other high beam out, which im hoping should help engine heat feel a bit more warmer

I'm back and ready to restore my Z-34, again! I'm looking for advice on the following: 1. Where to find hard to find parts. 2. Interior restoration. The Florida sun has destroyed mine again. 3. Repair suggestions. 4. etc. If anyone has any suggestions on where I can start, please let me know. Lumatic

Most of them hit the junkyards a long time ago. I used to see tons of mid 90's W's in the yards 15 years ago. With these cars not being particularly valuable, it's no surprise a lot of them hit the junkyards once they had a repair estimate exceed the value of the car. Some probably got scrapped for less than that. People that will hang on to a car for a long time are in the minority, especially those that have to pay someone else to repair them.

I don't see any of them around the Memphis area either, except in my driveway lol. All '97 coupes had the lip spoiler and taillights, regardless of trim level.

Thanks, me too! And I confirmed the trim can easily be locked back into place.

My car has been missing this piece for as long as I and the guy before me have owned it. But today I got a "care package" in the mail from jiggity76 and inside was the moulding I have been missing and it is in WHITE. With about 20 minutes of my time disassembling and polishing, it's as close to NOS as a used piece is going to get. Now, a missing key piece to the car is in place.......

Greetings. I have wanted a droptop since my early days of muscle car ownership. Roadrunners, GTO, Dusters, Darts. Finally, at 64 years old I got one. 95 Cutlass Supreme convertible. 85k on the clock, one owner, 3400 powered garage baby. Scale 1-10, I give it a 9. Perfect paint, body and top. Strong motor. Couple leaks in the top I need to fix. Minor wear on drivers seat. Everything works. Despite the 3400’s reputation for being hard to work on, I ain’t scared of it. Been a gear head all my life. I figure if I run into a problem, someone here can bail me out. The real drag is since I got it, been raining every day. I’m looking forward to cruising the Texas Hill country with the top down and the wind in what’s left of my hair

I'm guessing I'm behind the times, but I'm just now finding the cool wheel visualizers available online these days. Not sure how long this has been around, but when I bought my wheels for my vert back in 2010, no site had the ability to visualize wheels on your car with a pic you uploaded. I'm exploring what wheels might look nice on the coupe, and I uploaded one of the vert to play too. Gold rims kinda look nice on the vert. https://www.customwheelsnc.com/wheel-visualizer https://www.autoaddictions.com/wheel-visualizer/ The one thing that's readily apparent is that I'm really struggling with not wanting to lower my coupe like I did the vert...it just sits really high. The angle of the car for the pic has to be from the front quarter, car level, with the steering wheel turned one complete turn...then the wheels can be sized to your pic. You'll notice the coupe pic is flipped because it has to be taken from the passengers side. It's really slick. Once you get the sizing right, it's just a matter of clicking on wheels you're interested in and they appear on your pic. Here's some I was looking at.

I see a ton of w-bodys here in suburban/rural Oregon. We don't salt our roads in the winter, so even though there's a lot of moisture from the rain cars don't rust that bad. I rarely see any Cutlass convertibles, they weren't that popular in Oregon, but I do see a lot of other 90's w-bodys. Most are Grand Prixs (coupes and sedans) and Cutlass Supreme sedans, they are common enough still. I'm on the road for a couple hours a day, and see many thousands of cars each week, and I probably see a w-body Cutlass Supreme coupe once a week at the most. This last year I think I saw maybe four or five w-body Cutlass convertibles, but I wasn't driving mine at the time otherwise I honk and wave and usually get a wave back.

Most 1G W braking issues can probably be traced back to a shitty brake booster. A 96 already has the largest factory brakes fitted to the rear. I used to be able to lock up the brakes on command in my '90 LE, so I'm gonna assume the brake size isn't the problem.

She’s a real beauty.. I love the turquoise color a lot I don’t mind working on LQ1s.... is the fact that I have a few vintage projects( 69 olds, 70 opel, 77 pontiac, 85 camaro. Sold my 65 and 67 t-birds, 64 olds, 50 packard and 70 pontiac) and after working on these iron brutes I loose love for the LQ1s well she needs a new ICM or fuel pump... im having hard starts now and the ICM is a b**ch to get to

Beautiful! I for one absolutely love the LQ1's so far. I have two of them and enjoying every second of working on not only the motors but the cars themselves. I hope we can change your opinion on the LQ1 but if not, no harm. Again, she's a beauty!

https://ppgpacecars.com/pontiac-mclaren-turbo-grand-prix-1989-ppg-pace-car/

Which rear wing do you want?

Hot off the press . . . .The 3800 Space Bobby has been announced for June 20, 2020. Location is 7 Lakes state park in MI. Just a little south of Flint. I'm excited. Usually for a meet, I'd take Friday off work. I'm thinking of taking Thursday off, doing Autoshow, then staying Thurs-Saturday at the hotel with the crew. More details when they become available.

I have the whole rear seat section. Im going bench in mine.

It amazes me how seldom I see a W-body Cutlass Supreme on the road anymore. I get it, we're talking about cars that are 23-31 years old but still, I see plenty of Regals and Grand Prix's and even a fair number of Luminas and mid-late '90s Monte Carlos, but almost never a Cutlass, despite living in a city that had one of the top three Oldsmobile dealers in North Carolina. I'd had my '95 CS convertible for more than a year before I glimpsed another one crossing an intersection in front of me about a month ago but the day before yesterday, I pulled into a Walgreen's parking lot (in my Impala) and parked next to a very well maintained CS coupe, white with a tan interior. It was a later model ('95-'97) with the redesigned interior but a base trim level with cloth bucket seats manual climate controls and no steering wheel controls for the radio or A/C. One curious feature that it had was the rear lip on the taillights and trunk lid, usually associated with the 3.4L DOHC engine option but with a single exhaust, indicating it had the 3100 engine. The backup light bezel was also black instead of body color and it lacked the "DOHC" badging on the font fenders. My guess it was a '97 model and they were using up some leftover parts as they were winding down production, which Oldsmobile often did in that era. I would have liked to talk with the owner but it was cold and rainy so I just admired it for a moment and went on my way.

Hosting here is fine. We were telling people to stop using Photobucket since it's hot garbage. Imgur or here is A-OK.

What color is your interior? I have a good burgandy center console lid for sale if you're looking for one. Best of luck on your Z-34!

For parts, I like to use car-part.com to search junkyards. While they may not list the exact part you need, you can find a nearby yard with a Lumina and then directly contact them to ask about the parts you want. I don't have the time to go to junkyards myself, but for a few dollars they will pull and ship the parts to you. Shipping a hood isn't cheap so hopefully you get lucky and the place is close enough for you to pick it up yourself. I'm looking forward to seeing your before and after painting pics. And I agree about not getting newer rides, I keep shopping for newer cars but the parts are so cheap for w-bodies that I always end up just deciding to keep mine a little longer. My daily driver 95 costs me about $100 a month in repairs+maintenance+depreciation (hint, the $100 is all parts, I do almost all my own work and my car is fully depreciated lol) and the math just doesn't work out for getting a newer car.

Got the Olds set. (Not for sale)

When was the last time you saw these? One Pontiac Set, One GM Truck Set. Both are uncut. These would have been cut for your car to allow you to have in your wallet in case you locked your keys in the car. Unsure what to ask, and open to an offer for now.

Castle Thrust The only thing guaranteed to work. Spray it on, fully work the hinge back & forth several times until free, wipe off access and spray with white grease.

Start a build thread and post everything related to your project to keep it all together. Theres also a Wanted: section in the forum for part requests and for sale items. Definitely post some pics when you can.

Awhile back the mods and owner mentioned NOT uploading to the website but hosting the images elsewhere and linking them here. If thats still a thing I found Imgur to be really easy to upload and link pics to forums, it gives you a link to just copy and paste directly to the text box of the forum. Hey Jiggity, if you ever get the notion and time the forum would be ecstatic to have a PDF or Excel sheet made from that PN book, I`ve looked for one on and off over the years and never saw one.

I'm new at this forum thing. How do I post pics?

Where can I find a PN book? That would be helpful. It's amazing what a head turner this car is. I had it out today and got many looks and thumbs up.

You can use google for any abbreviation that you're not familiar with. Google does a pretty good job with those. You may have to add "slang" or "online meaning" in the search term. https://www.google.com/search?q=fwiw === Search Results Featured snippet from the web FWIW. acronym for "for what it's worth". Used mainly in computer-based conversation (instant messaging, email, text messaging, etc.) IANAL, but FWIW I think you're right about contract law. See more words with the same meaning: Internet, texting, SMS, email, chat acronyms (list of).Aug 23, 2012 === https://www.google.com/search?q=lirc+meaning+slang ========== Search Results Featured snippet from the web Meaning. IIRC. If I Read Correctly. IIRC. If I Recall/Remember Correctly. ========== Seafoam is a so-so treatment. For oil, I'd do an oil change after ~100miles. Lifters for OHV (OverHead Valve - older style heads/engines) go all the time. That car is old. That engine is old. The parts are old. Parts like lifters, fuel pumps, alternators, starters, etc can go at any time, because of their use and/or age. You didn't list what part of the country you're in. To help with weak lifters, use the heaviest oil that you can for your area and the time of year. Also, after ~3,000 miles, all oils start to show their "age". It varies depending on many factors. In New England, during the Spring and Fall, the daily highs and lows often result in condensation. Unless a car is kept in a sealed and climate controlled room/garage, then there's a good chance that the there will be condensation in the oil pan, even if the car is never run. Also, there will be some moisture in the oil pan, every time an engine goes from being ambient temperature to being fully warmed up, then back to ambient temperature. There are many ways in which an oil "ages". Imho, change the oil ever ~3,000 miles and at least every 6 months. Imho, in New England, every 3 months is better. https://www.google.com/search?q=Imho ====== IMHO is an acronym used mostly in texting, email, and social media that means in my humble opinion. It was first used in the 1980s in online forums, and decades later, some began erroneously attributing the H to the word honest ====== Good Luck!

Looks like there are a few still available new. 13-30 bucks. Locater But I have no idea how this site works.

Had me worried.. In your OP you said clattering, im thinking Flex Plate, or rod... But thats just lifter noise. As stated, you could continue driving as is, or get it fixed. The engine will last longer, and perform better if repaired.

That sounds like a bad lifter to me. Change the oil. Put in a good multi-grade synthetic. My go-to oil is Mobil-1 synthetic. Fwiw, my Quad 4 engines always had load lifter sounds. Iirc, they are both near/past 200K miles. A bad, fast leak down, lifter isn't the end of the world. That noise is the valve *slamming* against the valve seat. Depending on the length of time, and the miles, you'll put on the car, you "could" ignore the bad lifter. If you have experience working on cars/engines, _in general_, replacing lifters isn't "horrible". I do not know the specifics of that engine, nor the common "PITA" things that can break/be-a-pain when replacing the lifters. Imho, don't replace the lifters yourself, if you need the car "right away". You may have to order gaskets, sensors, etc. Fwiw, on my '77 Olds 350, I put in a "3/4ths" race cam (hey, that's what it was called). I was young and foolish. It was WAY too much cam for the engine. I put on Rhoads lifters to "tame" the cam enough to get "okay" vacuum and performance with city driving (that I did ~95% with that car). Rhoads lifters are "fast leak down" lifters (like a bad lifter :)). However, the purpose is to lessen the valve lift and duration at low rpms (like idle). But, at higher rpms, the lifter doesn't have a chance to leak down, do the full effect of the cam is used. It's a mechanical way of having variable lift and variable duration for the cam. I had stainless steel valve, and custom valve spring forces(higher) for the cam. I ran Rhoads lifters for well over a dozen years in my Olds 350. I put well over 100K miles on the engine with those lifters. The heads and valves were fine. But, again, mine were not stock valves or valve seats. However, most people back then used the stock heads. For a head/valves in good shape, imho, lasting 50K+ miles, using Rhoads lifters, wasn't even a concern. The video below gives a good idea of what Rhoads lifters sound like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R0s_nwahCBU 1970 El Camino 383 Stroker with Rhodes lifters Dick Fitzwell Good Luck!

3n1 oil works great and the bottle has a long nozzle, a couple of drops of 5w, 10w etc motor oil works great too.

He is serious. Everytime I went looking for them in the past, they were always broke. But you do get lucky every now and then...

Jiggity, 3.1 cars also have these plastic wire holders on the spark plug wires going to the rear cylinders.

Well, I have the 89 International parts car but I'm not sure if I'm giving up the rear seats or not. I don't think I need them but...let me think about it. I'm definitely keeping the front seats.

Hey everyone, I want to remove the black window trim that goes around the top/bottom sides of the rear glass and doors on the 88-93 CS International coupes. I need to remove the nice ones from my 89 parts car to use on my 91 International coupe. Are there any tricks to doing this? I obviously don't want to damage them. I'd like to remove the large piece of trim that runs between the rear glass and the quarter panel window glass also. Any ideas would be great, thank you!

This is awesome! I'm happy those pieces came off easy enough!!

Update, I spend a lot of time this weekend finding window trim pieces for the STE and decided to tackle this same job on the International. Thank you to everyone who commented and helped out! I thought I would practice on this 95 CS coupe I found in my local yard. If I messed something up or broke a piece of trim, it wouldn't have been too big of a deal. Turns out, it was pretty easy to remove all the pieces. Now I have two sets of perfect window trim to replace the bad ones on the 91 car. So I just used a small flat screwdriver and slowly started to pry the trim away from the body. There are metal clips that hold it to the body of these cars and it took me about 10 mins on each piece as I took my time and made sure not to damage or bend them. I also removed the passenger side lower beltline trim as the window was broken and learned how to get them out. I haven't removed the upper front door window pieces as you have to get the windows down in order to remove them. The junkyard car unfortunately has bad ones on each door so I didn't mess with it. Getting back to the front door lower beltline pieces, it's the same on the STE. You have to remove part of the door panel and get the sideview mirrors off. This will reveal two screws that you need to take out for this piece of trim. Same for the back of the door, take off the plastic door hinge cover on the inside of the door frame to expose the screw that holds on the back of the trim. Then I used a non marring tool to tap it out and over the pinch weld on the door. Not too bad!

Silicone w/ ptfe is the GM recommendation I believe. WD-40, engine oil, etc. will all work fine though.

Try Graphite spray.

Yeah, that jiggity76 guy is an alright dude! That piece looks good in its new home!

Thank you! That's good to know. I would post this info in your thread as well, it could help others out in the future.

Hooray! Looks wonderful!

Your wood block picture = you need a bracket from another W' to accomplish that spacing or you need to drill your current one. Here's a '94 bracket in a car w/ a 3800 for example: Click thumbnails for full size.

Okay, further research indicates that the cluster uses a NDM457C chip (Nippon Denso) which is an EEPROM. There is a software/hardware combo, for about $80 (from China), that can program the chip "in circuit with appropriate probing of the chip. The NDM457C is exposed through the plastic case, so disassembly of the cluster isn't even required. The software allows for the clean entry of mileage, so "by hand" decoding of the EEPROM is unnecessary. Software/hardware at: http://www.microcontroller-cafe.com.ua/products/automotive/NDM457C Such system also reprograms the digital clusters in: 1) HONDA Prelude, 1994-1996 (OKI 16911G) 2) LEXUS LS, 1996-1999 (TC97101P) 3) LEXUS ES, CS, LS 1992-1995 (NDM457C) 4) GM Cutlas Suprime International, BUICK Regal 1991-1995, PONTIAK Grand AM (NDM457C) 5) GM Safari, Savana, Gxpress Astro, Caprice (Delco 51006A) 6) BUICK Reviera 1996-1999 (TC97101P) 7) SAAB 900, 1994-1996 (59C11) The problem is....its $80! Anyone else have the need to do any of this kind of work (odometer modification) on their UB3 or other NDM457C cluster?

Time for some new friends............

There are two versions of the Digi-Dash, can you post a pic of the one you have? The UB3 looks like this...

Does that help? Let me know if you need anything else!

Seems like I'm on a constant LQ1 myth buster crusade on fb. People who've never owned or maintained one acting like they're an authority. The biggest myth being how difficult it is to change a timing belt followed closely by constant head gasket failures and massive oil leaks. Then I get called a dick because I call them out for disseminating false information

It says it has an electrical issue, that’d drive the price down for me, otherwise it’s a good deal $1500 car. I do t get why people hate the LQ1, but I digress