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Hello all, I was a member here in 2000-2004ish (FATGUY) and life happened. Back then I had a Maroon 1990 Turbo STE and was fairly active. Since then (read as kids, wife, jobs, moves) the car went away and eventually I bought a 1995 Cutlass Supreme body and dropped in a 2002 3100 for my daily driver about 90 miles per day. 5 1/2 years and 120,000 miles later I had an engine mishap and now and contemplating what direction to go with the car. My wife hates it, I LOVE it!! lt is starting to show its Upper Midwest Salty Highway wear, but its not too bad yet (neglected the last couple of years). I am currently looking for a few parts to fix it back up and will be here more often with updates. I am extremely busy with 3 teenagers, work, restoring a 1973 Nova for a friend, and general honey-do list items, but will get here when I can. Good luck to all maccdadd_72

But the OP did

Hello my friend!

Yes, actually its my wife's she bought it in 92' with 5,000 miles it now has 169,700

Did you change the spark plug wire and plugs yet? It's always a good idea to draw a diagram of which spark plug wires plug into which coil pack. I put masking tape at each end of the wires, based on where they plugged into the coil packs. I made the one farthest to the passengers side #1, then numbered each wire as I pulled them off of the coil pack, moving toward the drivers side, which I called #6. Then I matched up the wires by length, and transferred the numbering to the new wires, then reinstalled. Which ever way you do it, just keep track of which plug wire goes to which coil pack post.

I believe that is the cassette/CD/cubbyhole surround.

I'm guessing a pcm that's very confused is the problem.

As asked.... do you need this?.......these new are extremely rare & pricey or do you need this?...... the seat rots out more often than the knuckle assembly does, the seat is fastened to the knuckle.

Well aware, but I didn't use all caps.

Been a hot minute since I was active, hope everyone is well!

Man, I wish my Grand Prix's interior was that dark gray color. Also if you ever go back I could use the driver's side grille piece! If it was close to me I'd probably swap out the interior completely, mine is rather trashed.

I don't think I've seen that many W's total in all of my jy runs. I think they're all still on the road down here. Thank you so much for grabbing those parts. I can't wait to see if those b pillar trim pieces work on my coupe. Yeah, can't believe about those red wires being on there either. Too bad you couldn't get them out whole.

If you have a torque wrench and know the torque specs, unbolting the rockers is no big deal.

I'm definitely down for a Southern meet up of any kind. My TGP is nothing special to look at, but I still would enjoy meeting and seeing the other cars! Gatlinburg is always a fun place, and kinda central...

I don't remember if I posted this or not. Yep, that's Richard Petty.

It destroys the paint underneath. There's a reason everyone stopped using them in the 90s.

I haven't had a fb since 2012 and haven't looked back since

The wires should work out well they are a nice touch

Fwiw, there's no such thing as an Oldsmobile vehicle. That's a BS myth - just like the $2 bill! Congrats on getting the car back on the road!

lets see them pix

I've got the passenger side done, but the control arm bolts were seized to the bushing sleeves on the driver's side. Penetrating oil and many swings of a sledgehammer worked on the passenger side bolts, but that wasn't enough for the drivers side so I gave up and had to cut the bolts. One problem I ran into was that was my Ryobi battery-powered sawzall has a long body and I couldn't get a very good angle for one of the cuts that's closest to the axle, I kept bending the saw blades. So I had to use my angle grinder and cut off chunks of the control arm until I had enough clearance to get all the way through the bolt. I had to make multiple cuts before it finally cut through (and I get a little nervous with showers of sparks from the angle grinder landing on an oil-covered engine) but I finally got it out of there. Now all I have left to do is the drivers side tie rod, install new brake lines, torque all the new bolts, refill the transmission, clean off the leaked transmission oil from the exhaust (because I don't want to smell that or start a fire) and hope it starts and runs. I'm guessing I'll get it done by early March.

Yes I am.......no change in their castings at all to simply improve on the front braking ability GM just installed a slightly larger rotor. To do that they had to move the caliper outward to relocate it in the appropriate position for the larger rotor. But really, when this platform 1st arrived there were droves of cars coming back to the dealers with brake issues. My 1st two GP's were no different, the cars would not stop very well in panic situations. The brakes are/were too small (front & rear rotors & rear caliper pistons), the boosters were substandard, there was an 1/8" air gap between the booster & the master cylinder pushrod, the diagonal opposed brake lines at the master sound good in theory but in a practical sense BOTH front calipers need to be driven off the same primary piston not split between the one primary & the secondary as the lines were installed, all tied together make for horrendous brakes.

More information is needed, what year is your car? '92? is the replacement front strut taken from a 94 -96 vehicle? if so the mounting for the calipers are different, the later strut allows an 11" front rotor, the earlier cars (88-93) are fitted with 10.5" rotors. The caliper bracket & the calipers are the same, the only difference is where the later struts stamped welded bracket flange locates the caliper bracket to move it further away from the centerline of the rotor/spindle to accommodate the larger rotor dia. If the shop that did this tried to use the 10.5: rotor mounted to the hub where an 11" rotor should be the pads will not be in the proper location on the rotor contact surface. To correct this you will need to install a proper 11" rotor to that repaired side. This is also going to upset the braking force to the front wheels as well. The smaller 10.5" rotor will not deliver the same amount of braking torque that the 11" rotor will. The larger the diameter of the rotor the greater the braking torque will be. You will need to do the same mod to the other side to equalize the braking torque to both wheels. The shop that did this should've seen that something was visually incorrect when they re-installed the pads & could see that they were out of place.

You can also pick up a steering wheel control kit from most car audio places which will allow you to keep your steering wheel controls. I forget where I've seen them though other than Best Buy but I don't think Best Buy carries car audio stuff anymore. Not around here, at least. Also, Crutchfields carries them... http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Ax34aXESnkl/g_118900/Steering-Wheel-Audio-Control-Adapters.html