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All fixed. Thank you 55 and Memphis!

I have a front strut tower bar I took out of a '94 LQ1 Cutlass vert. $25 plus shipping and it's yours.

I’m a little late to the party so this may be useless but I have removed and installed these. There should be 4 or 5 really long screws holding them on and one short one. Take these screws out of the flare. Once those are out there is a spacer that goes between the fender and the flare. Take the spacer out and then simply push the flare up. I would clean the fender really good and spray some silicon spray in between the fender and the flare so you minimize scratches when it comes up. It’s held onto he fender by small steel hooks that are riveted to the fender.

I think a regal GS/monte carlo/imapala SS will work as well because it's a w-body, and has the proper mounts. any other car with an L67 (H-body) have different mounts and therefore will work, but you will need to obtain the w-body mounts. Additionally I'm not sure if the PCM from the regal, mote, or impala will work(possibly BCM issues?). The PCM info may be wrong, but I thought it's something I've seen. In my swap I've used a variety of PCM, 00,01,03 GTP's, so I know they work!

Here's the info: Any 97-07 engine and trans combo will work. It's slightly easier 98-02. Here's what you need from the GTP donor car Motor transmission PCM Rad motor mounts axles Here is what you need from a 98-99 monte carlo Z34/Lumina LTZ as it originally came with a 3.8 and the wiring harness is very similar to the 90 GP. Engine wiring harness (C100 at firewall will need slight re-wiring to work in the 90 GP and add the BBV wiring(I think)) rad hoses tensioner, and heater hose fitters(they are at a right angle vs straight on the newer ones, but the newer ones can work). heater hoses power steering lines PCM mount/case Exhaust downpipe AC components, everything from firewall forward axles 97 is odd because of the transmission and vacuum hose routing. 03 is odd because of the transmission wiring. If you use a 03 transmission, you MUST use a 03 PCM. 04-07 has a GEN V supercharger, you'll need a throttle body adapter to use either an L67 TB or Northstar TB and LQ4 MAF. Whatever TB you use, you'll need to match the TB Adapter. Additionally if you use a 04-07 transmission, you MUST use the 03 transmission. Axles: If using monte carlo transmission, they should bolt in not issues. if using GTP transmission, take the inner tulips that plug into the transmission, and swap the rest of the 1st gen axle into those tulips. They will pop in with no issues, assuming the original 1st gen trans was a 4spd. If 3 spd, it won't work. If I had to do this again, I would find the 98/99 monte carlo z34/lumina LTZ and steal all of the parts from. I would then top swap the 3.8 and run it in the GP. Good luck with your swap!

I'm now tempted to do this just to meet "Negative Matt.

I let him know I have it. The only downside is he's in Canada so shipping might be really expensive. Edit: Dammit I just saw that you PM'd him too. At least he's definitely gonna see this now.

I just PM'd him to contact you if he still wants one.

Thanks for letting me know! I think pinging him will give him a notification. @55trucker

I would PM 55trucker, I think he's been looking for one. I can get ahold of him if you prefer. Nice that you got it for anyone that needs it, thank you.

At this rate, CS verts are going to be really scarce. This section is cars that are For Sale. This area is right in front of the yard/office. Not sure if they would sell parts off of it but I will ask the next time I'm there.

Ok, not W's but was really surprised and excited to see these two 57 Bel Air sedans sitting out front. They're rough but how often do you see something like this? I wonder if they were sitting in a field or barn together on the same property. I hope they get to live on and not get scrapped. They are in the For Sale section of the yard so maybe someone can get them and do a proper restoration.

I'd call that properly ruined!

If you'll notice the box has a date of 2009, its been on a shelf for awhile! The oil leak, is likely from the oil pump shaft on the other side of the engine. No better time then to just pull the lower intake while you are there. Its a bastard of a job, and can't be done properly without removing the rear cylinder head, plenty of other ways to go about it though.

You *should* be good. It's technically non interference, but its not completely unheard of to bend valves. If it was a low-mid RPM you are probably good. I had the same thing happen ages ago and I was fine. I've done this job many times now, its not as bad as it seems but it is rather time consuming. For a 93 you will NEED, at minimum: Valve cover gasket set, intake gasket set, Timing belt, all 3 idler pulleys. You'll need at minimum tool wise the cam sprocket removal tool, the cam cog holder tool and either the cam hold down tools or some flat stock with a hole drilled in it to lock the cams in position. Now the kick in the nuts. The actual timing belt tensioner actuator is getting difficult to find now. It's a GM dealer item only and I don't know if its still in production. If the spring inside that broke you'll need a new one. If its still good it can be reused. You'll discover that in the teardown, I'm sure. Make sure to refill it with oil when you have it retracted and to replace the rubber plug. If you search through my posts I think I've covered it or semi covered it 2-3 times. The first time I did it I think I used a writeup from 60degreev6.com and the factory manual There's probably another 5 pages I could write on it, but let me know what you have questions about after doing some reading.

Depending on the geographical area the vehicle is coming from (as above stated) .......rust, if the car is in a salt belt rust will get into the rocker boxes, the rear bumper rebar, the rear lifting pads area at the trailing arm mount, the rear quarters (left side fuel filler reinforcement), the front suspension member locating points, rear brake lines are a weak point for rot. All of the pre 94 cars have the small brakes, those brakes are underpowered (all of the rotors are too small, the rear calipers are too small), because of the caliper slider design the rear brakes are prone to seizing due to lack of maintenance. A/C, if it's important to you 94 is the 1st year for 134a, a 93 would require an 134a upgrade, (when I did mine I replaced the r12 compressor with a 134a compressor due to the different compressor control valves used in each). Never did really like the LH0 engine, underpowered, for 93 the trans *should* be the 4T60-E, look for *no TV cable at the throttle body* to verify that. I'm sure there's more I've left out. If you want one of this year find a nice one.

Wash/wax on my GP. Been neglecting my car for awhile. Decided to clean her up this evening. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I'll be changing to red wires next time!

I doubt it would be a steering gear after only 150k. Racks can essentially last forever. On my car that was doing the same thing it turned out to be the rag joint between the column and rack that needed to be replaced.

I'd price a new headliner and consider doing it all at once if the budget allows for it. The worst feeling I've had doing projects like this is not replacing a wearable part when I've had the chance, then wishing I would've spent the extra $

Mine had a tonne of dust. If you're gonna replace it in another couple of years,........... Get the picture? Do it now.. Problem will be the lead time to get it. They are made to order. But i advise that you do it now.

It never hurts to have someone look at it, especially if they see you actually care enough about the car to try and figure it out. Call first and talk with them a little to see if they`re cool about just looking at it without the attitude. A few things to look at would be the subframe mounts, Ive got the two in the back I need to replace and since a remanned R&P isnt unreasonable I`m going to replace that too. IIRC the R&P has a rubber mount of bushing that might could fail causing steering issues. Not positive on what a bad inner tie rod feels like but I was told they need to be replaced like the outer ends do just not as frequently. I also had one of the plastic pins holding the wheel well cowling in place and it would rub up against the tire on occasions that caused an array of whirring noises. Sounded very similar to a bad wheel hub I replaced on the Vert but on my 94 coupe.

I re-used my headliner. It wasn't torn, it was just a little faded which I didn't care about. My headliner has also slightly shrunk so the side velcro pieces don't quite mate with the velcro pieces on my latches, but it's only mildly annoying and could be rectified without buying a new headliner.

Your car has two of these bleeders. Both are circled below. It looks like the heater inlet hose one is good (the one closest to the firewall).

Buy my whole car, get some nice tan cloth seats.

It's a general bleeder screw, you can find them on many GM vehicles where the rad filler spout is not the highest point of the cooling system. They are needed to bleed the air out of the system.

Great catch. Yeah, that thing is sheared for sure. Here is what it should look like: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I was just thumbing thru these pics you uploaded when I noticed this.........the top of that bleeder valve is missing, it appears as tho it has been sheared off, there should be a hex head on the top of the brass valve one can open to bleed out the air.

So ever since I got my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible almost nine months ago, it's had an odd quirk in that it won't trigger the automatic shutoff at the gas pump. The first couple of times I filled the tank, I had a small fuel spill underneath on the passenger side--until today. I was very surprised when I was gassing it up today and the pump shut off! After the first two fueling mishaps, I had worked out a little procedure where I would put 10 gallons of gas in the car when the gauge was just below a quarter tank. Today, I was right at a quarter and the pump shut off just before the nine-gallon mark. When I got back in the car and turned it on, the gauge came up a little above the full mark so it was well and truly full without overflowing. Even better, when I got home there was no gasoline odor, which I usually experience when the tank is full. I'm thinking that when I got the rear struts replaced this week, the technician may have noticed a loose line and put it back in place without saying anything about it. If that's the case, I'm thankful but I'm not going to consider it permanently fixed until I fill up successfully a couple more times.

I wish I had the time to help organize this more, but at least for the immediate future its just not going to happen. At the moment I'm good for whenever I just need to know when.

I've got a build thread on here from when I replaced the top on my 95, you might have already seen it. I would also recommend focusing on the rear tack strip. When the top is up, there is a lot of tension on that strip. When I first assembled my new top, it started to pull out of the tack strip and I had to pull out the staples, reposition the top, and add more staples. There's a section on each rear corner where the top and rear curtain overlap and you need to make sure that is stapled very well. Don't skimp on the staples, they're cheap! For a stapler, I used an electric stapler that I got from convertibletopguys.com. It's an Arrow T50ACD stapler. Make sure to use stainless staples. The electric stapler worked well, but for the rear corner overlap sections you have to push in hard to make sure the staple gets seated into the tack strip. Maybe you could use longer staples for the sections where the top material is folded or overlaps, and the staples have to go through multiple layers of canvas. I did NOT replace my rear tack strip, even though it came in the kit I bought. I probably should have replaced it, though, it probably would have reduced the problems I had getting my top to attach at the rear. I still have a bunch of pictures I took during my project, if you have any questions or problems post on here and I might have some advice. I should admit thought that my new top still leaks at the A-pillar corners, I need to do something about the rubber seal there, my initial fix has not worked well. Did you get installation instructions with your top? If not I could send you some relevant pages from the installation manual I have.

How could you not love these cars! The wheels and the styling of that rear floating glass area, just awesome!

She's back on the road! After a long winter of fighting rusty bolts, I finally got her back together yesterday. I carefully drove her around the block once, and she seemed to drive and shift fine. I haven't noticed any leaks from the transmission or the brake lines. I'll try a longer drive tonight after work and see how it goes. Parts replaced: Passenger side only: Axle. Both sides: Control arms, tie rods (inner and outer), ball joints, flex brake lines. Parts saved: Fender (I straightened the bent lip). Wheel well trim and lower cladding were slightly damaged but I reinstalled them. TBD: Passenger front tire and hub. The tire held air all winter, but I need to drive at higher speeds and go around corners to evaluate the hub and tire. Total cost: About $400 including tools. Time spent: I don't want to think about it, probably 50+ hours if you count watching videos and buying tools. It doesn't sound like much, but I found ways to make the project take forever. It was my first time doing any of these jobs on any car, so it was a slow learning curve to figure out what technique to use. I often would only have two or three hours a week to work on it, so it dragged on and on. I tried to save money by using the wrong tool for the job a few times, which just ended up with wasted time and frustration until I would give up and drive to the store and buy the right tool. Once I had the right tool and the right technique, each job wasn't bad. Moral of the story: Buy the right tool!

I put new mufflers and tips on recently. Mufflers are Total Flow 33225 from Amazon, pretty much Magnaflow knock offs. And the tips are 2.25" single inlet to dual 3" outlet. Sounds good, drones a bit at cruising speeds though. Link to my YouTube video below. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

PICK-n-PULL Portland South Portland, Oregon 97266

HUD only.

1 of 48 Garnet/Garnet leather WR54T cars made in 1992.

PICK-n-PULL Sacramento Sacramento, California 95823 PICK-n-PULL Oakland Oakland, California 94621