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....more of this.........your memory issues will fade away

^ K frame? was a slang Chrysler term for the front suspension member in their vehicles, so named because the frame was in the loose shape of a K.

Thank you so much. I guess I'll try the lube trick first and then maybe grab an actuator if it doesn't work. Don't know why I don't want to pull the door panel; I've only done it about 63,998 times.

Hey guys, Glad to be here. I just bought my buddy's 97 Century. Its got 86000 miles on it and its in great shape. I'm pretty good with cars, but I'm sure to have some questions, and hopefully i can help you guys out too. Ill post a couple pics as soon as i can. Hope everyone had a great day today!

ended up finding a 99 buick park ave ultra .bin then using that and im happy with that because its os is still compatible with hp tuners now i need the 2 speed fuel pump!!

Obtain the service manual set for your vehicle. Look in the wiring-diagram section, find out how the ECM is powered. Verify that wiring for loose connections, weak fuse-blade terminals, broken/intermittent wires, etc. I would want to connect a scan tool, and see what other info I could get that might be useful. Verify EVERY sensor and computer output. Wouldn't hurt to check the battery connections, too. Assure that the battery isn't losing voltage while parked.

The inner rocker is where most the strength is, but on a unibody car the outer rocker does serve a purpose. If you can get the trim on without it sagging then I say go for it. It's your car do what you want.

I would use a engine support fixture to hold the power train in place while the subframe is r/r

Hmmmm.........not good, this is no time to *get on the wagon* lol

This is just a mechanical push contact switch. I don't really think this is the source of your issue, being an STE I take it that the car is equipped with the light sentry option? One pulls the doorhandle & the interior lights all come on, one gets out of the car & the interior lights will stay on for 30 secs.

The rubber pad glued to the spring protects the spring from the rough surface of the iron. The plastic block is for lifting the ass-end about 3/4 of an inch.

^ don't necessarily agree with that synopsis, the purpose of the nylon *replacement* block is to provide a *soft* sliding surface for the end of the spring to move back & forth on so the spring doesn't rub against the cast iron knuckle which would destroy the spring in short order. Dorman does make an OEM replacement for the lost rubber insulator, but there's much to do to get the bottom side of the old spring clean enough so that the included adhesive with stay there. Your knuckle castings are looking mighty rough, a smooth surface is needed for the rubber isolator to properly flex, all that rust more than likely had something to do with the isolator breaking free.

First Guess: Copper washers on the brake hoses. A) there's two per bolt, not one. B ) the washers work-harden when the bolt is tightened, they should be replaced not re-used. Second Guess: Loose or defective bleeder screws. Third Guess: Someone disabled the park brake, the calipers won't adjust properly. Beyond that, wash it off, fill the brake reservoir, and have someone start the engine (to get power to the brake booster) and stand on the brake pedal while you look for fresh leakage.

Got a photo of the damage? Being able to see it might trigger some ideas.

Step #8 says remove the oil so i removed the oil when I replaced my cartridges. Do whatever you want I don't think it really matters.

Procedure #8 says - oil from strut tube using suction device. The service manual just forgot to put REMOVE OR DISCONECT at the top of that list.

The OEM strut has loose oil inside. You'd remove ALL of it to the best of your ability. The replacement cartridge is a different design, that doesn't need oil inside the housing. Remove the oil, drop the new cartridge into the housing, put it together just like the manual says.

So I ended up getting a 2001 valve body and the 2-piece pump put in instead, then also replacing it with the same compatible pressure switch and epc sensor for the pre 2003 model … I’ll update after I get my engine delivered and put in

I still haven't been under the car. Lots of inspection to be done and I haven't even begun that. Runs and drives great...so far. Thanks for the replies.

If you're looking for a GM one, it's part # 7470625.

On the first gens the ABS sensor is separate of the bearing on the front. so technically yeah there is no front abs hub as they all can be Its held in with the upper 2 bolts, you may have to use a small hammer to knock the locating pins of the sensor out of the bearing when you remove

That is correct. For the ABS cars, there is a tone ring that the ABS sensor reads on the axles.

Not really sure whats being asked here... Can we get a little bit better of a post so we know what you are after?

These were posted on the Shitty Years Pontiac forum today.

Hey guys, I want to remove the door panels on my 93 GP STE. Any tips or things/steps I need to pay attention too? I do have a panel removal tool. Thank you!

1989 ARCA 200

Good news i got the car to fire right up again. It was a mix between the crankshaft sensor and the ICM and coils. As for that fuse it no longer blows after i played with the wire for a while and traced it as far as i could and the wire was in great shape so not sure about what happened there. Now i got a new issue, soon as i started the car i noticed i got coolant dripping from back by the firewall. i had lost coolant before the car died. So i filled the radiator and went for a 7 mile drive. Got back and i put about a 1/3 of a jug back into the radiator. Car doesnt blow smoke or anything. What could be a possible cause for it? Its by the passenger tire in the front around the back corner of the block by the firewall based on how its dripping onto the ground. Any help would be great on this!

When the Crank sensor went out on my 'ol Euro (3.1; and my brother was driving it when it happened) the car just up and shut off. There was no spark/ injector pulse. If your car had just that issue, I'd say start there. If you had no spark AND no fuel injector pulse, I'd put money on a crank sensor issue. BUT, since you indicate a ignition fuse popping, I'd look there first. Keep us updated.

Maybe the crank sensor or ICM has internally shorted. That's a weird one on me.

Hey guys, new to the forum. I'm having a car problem that's stumping everybody I've asked. They say it could be all these different sensors or the fuel regulator and/or pump. My 1993 Lumina up and stalled out with no warning one day, and since then it has not run right. It will start up and idle roughly forever, but when you hit the gas it will lurch/rev up and down, misfire variably, and then stall. The length of time it will run before stalling varies but no more than 5 minutes. Check Engine light is not on, was checked to be working, no codes. Recently ran idle relearn, replaced MAP and IAT Sensors. Am going to check fuel pressure. Any ideas?

I am having nearly the same problem, and I have replaced all my ignition-related sensors, spark-plugs and spark-plug wires, and most recently coils. The rough idle might be from a bad coil, but it more probably will turn out to be a bad ignition control module. Those seem to go out often on my car (91 lumina euro 3.1). Check out my post (Something Not Right Here) and see if the symptoms match up. I would get mystery stalls, which grew increasingly worse. The car will not start now, even with all the crap I''ve replaced, and I picked up the new ICM a bit ago. Going to replace it tonight and see if it fixes the problem. Have you checked to see if you are getting spark yet? I really wish I had done that right off the bat, then I wouldn't have replaced so much crap that probably didn't need it.

Crawl underneath and try to find where exactly the pump is then use a cut wheel to cut an access panel in the trunk floor. It takes 10 min to replace a fuel pump this way.

Use your knees on the front side, a jack on the back side. I just did this. It sucked, but it got done. DO EMPTY IT BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO PUT THE TANK BACK UP!!!

my sisters old 91 lumina was the same way, wouldnt idle for crap and stalled without a relearn.

I had to do the relearn on my Lumina because every stop sign it would stall. Yeah I'd say the brakes take a bit and the computer is probably to stupid to conpensate...but I've never had any problems doing it the w-body.com way lol

Well I was hoping to wait and get this all on my web site, most of us are not too concerned as we already have it in our cars, but seems the info is spreading in it's need/interest, so for everyone, here is what I have found so far, please add anything I missed: As for the engine and the McLaren Project, first off Dean is Vice President and Director of Facility Operations, great guy and a very sharp/smart man, we have talked on the phone, and met a few times at car events such as SAE MotorSport Conference and the SEMA Show, Wiley McCoy was there too, great guy who is also very sharp with a real passion for cars, and our/his baby. To repeat some of what was said before, but more so to put all the info in one place, here is what was done to the TGP engine and a little more, some components are used in other vehicle engines as well (see post below for casting numbers). "Select engine components" meaning they were checked when taken from the parts bin for closer tolerances, that includes some of the engine items listed below: Unique Vin V version of the VIN T Block, part number 10140528, stock VIN T Block is part number 10089656. Block, 20% Nickel content to improve strength, very small amount of tin for same. (Yet unreleased at that time), head casting 10087511 and its larger, less defined heart shaped combustion chamber, with the deep dished 28cc/ml piston top to achieve the .1 drop in compression ratio to 8.8 (or 8.78 depending on what you read). Forged Rods, these forged versions are unique to the 1989-90 TGP and TSTE only, part number 10070113, C-1037 Heat Treated Steel Forging, SAE 1050 Air Quenched Rod Caps. Hardened Crank (Nitrided), Nodular Cast Iron with journal camfer/deep rolled fillets, casting 981 but this one IS unique to the 1989-1990 TGP and TSTE, worked on after starting as a 981 crank! Part number 10110549. Ion Nitrided/hardened depth of .02"-.03" raising surface hardness from 30-35 Rockwell C to 60 Rockwell C. Mahle Autothermic Hypereutectic Pistons with Reinforcement Bar/Steel Strut to add strength to the top of the piston, 12% Silicone. Stock 3.1L cam, as used in the 2.8L, 3.1L Vin T and Vin V. Mellings Iron Body High-Volume Oil Pump. Engine Oil Cooler as some Monte Z34s had, maybe others, unique water tap to regulate water to turbo, and fittings to plumb it in. Coolant line take off welded on to provided for turbo water system return. Oil tap port fitting added to block/metal braided hose for feed line to turbo. Unique oil pan with turbo oil drain line fitting, and metal hose extension. Unique Rear Exhaust Manifold to feed with other Exhaust Manifold the Turbo’s Exhaust/Turbine Side, constructed of cast nodular iron. That damn OEM Crossover Pipe. Larger 22 lb injectors. Upgraded Fuel Pump taken from the Vette Parts Bin. Garrett Water Cooled Turbo, T25 though smallish, at least one of the larger versions of it, for less lag problems though all lag is programmed into the chip, unplug the computer from controlling the boost and tire smoke in less than a second, way too much boost/spin to get a good launch, needs a bigger turbo for lag and traction control! Boost control solenoid and lines. ABS Unit Heat Sheild. Unique Fuel Supply/Return Lines/Engine Bay Area, in front of ABS Unit. Tranny setup is unique, larger tranny cooling lines and an aux tranny cooler in fender well. Hardened Gears and Gear Carrier Set. Additional Nested Accumulator Springs, other little changes to the tranny, some not listed until it's taken apart for inspection. 1898 rpm Stall Converter, not a High-Stall as the stock turbo is not large enough to warrant it! Vacuum Line Check Valve/Bleeder at Modulator, Vacuum Line has internal restictor in-line to limit boost pressure and to allow check/bleed to fuction. Larger (Blackstone) 3 Core Radiator that is plumbed for the larger tranny cooling lines. Largest Electric Cooling Fan from the parts bin at the time, for main engine cooling. Secondary/smaller cooling fan to assist engine cooling, condenser and intercooler air flow needs. Blackstone Air-to-Air Intercooler. Some other things but this should get out most of the info people are interested in. Enjoy! Jeff M

yeah whats the deal with the computer.

What did you get? A brand new Computer? or Remanufactured Computer? The Cost?

Actually, problem solved. Like I said, we had changed everything else I could think of before this problem even started, so I was afraid of this. I wanted it to be a last resort, though. The computer was apparently bad. I figured something was up with it, because there's no way 3 IACs were bad, yet when I unplugged the IAC, it started up and idled by itself. So there you have it, folks. She's back to purring like a kitten.

Sorry I should have made this more clear, I am not talking about the Rocker panel cover sagging, I am talking about the entire unibody sagging in the middle due to the lack of inner rocker panels. I need body measurements to ensure that the car isnt folding in on itself structurally