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LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
j_train5344 and 3 others reacted to Schurkey for a topic
The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.4 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
rich_e777 and 2 others reacted to j_train5344 for a topic
Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again3 points -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
j_train5344 and 2 others reacted to White93z34 for a topic
Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.3 points -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
Amanita and 2 others reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
This is a great overall video of not only the tensioner but anything having to do with servicing these wonderful motors. Like in the video, motor oil is used to top off the tensioner. There is a rubber plug that gives access to filling it. The video explains what is acceptable for the tensioner to be at as far as specs to be considered reusable. You'll have to skip forward a bit to find the appropriate sections of information. Hope this helps!3 points -
LS4 swap begins
GnatGoSplat and one other reacted to carkhz316 for a topic
Dang, its a been a spell. I'm sorry I havn't checked back in for some time. Anyway, I got the the Monte out to a few car shows last summer. I live in a rural area, so not many eyes and ears for modern cars. I was largely ignored but I don't care. The few people genuinely interested were great to talk to and showed sincere interest, so thats nice. Anyway, some pics and videos from last year. Yes, the vette covers are a cheeky joke, mostly. I figured if anyone else can do it for their LS (Vortec) swapped classic or hot rod, why can't I?2 points -
New member
pwmin and one other reacted to Gp2006 for a topic
Hi all. Just signed up. I’m here from GPForum where I used to get lots of good technical info. Alas the site is no more. Hope to pick up and share info as I go along. Just put my 2006 Grand Prix back on the road after several years in storage. Nothing fancy but it runs great and still looks good.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
pwmin and one other reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
That's very kind of you! I've learned a lot due to me basically having to get so deep into both my cars restoration. It's forced me to learn how these cars are put together and I've become very good at looking for parts, doing research, etc. I'm trying for perfection but still have lots to learn and work to do. I can't forget to mention the guys who came before me. I've learned so much from them that I can't...NO ONE can do it without their knowledge and guidance. I'm just trying to pay it forward.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 and one other reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
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Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 and one other reacted to rich_e777 for a topic
Nice ride, Ive got a white `95 Vert thats been a project for awhile now. They`re great cars but the Verts and the DOHC engine both have unique parts no longer in production so they have to be maintained. There's several places coolant can get to leaking from, few are easy to get to. They can even get to leaking coolant from a plug inside the bellhousing. One thing Ive encountered on mine and seen on several junkyard cars is the antenna mast seal on those can go bad, leak into the trunk and rust from the inside out just over the rear wheel wheel. You might check behind ya`lls trunk liner to check every now and then.2 points -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 and one other reacted to Oldsman for a topic
Welcome. I haven't been on here very long and have only a few posts. My wife has a very similar car except hers is a 95 with only 27,000 miles. I found the thread on here about replacing the rear window weatherstrips. They are no longer available and the thread shows how to use 4th generation Camaro door weatherstrips. Excellent article. It looks like somebody has painted your brake calipers red. I did the same thing to my wife's car last year when I replaced the pads. These are really fun cars. Enjoy yours.2 points -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 and one other reacted to j_train5344 for a topic
Wonderful info guys! Truly...thank you! I just bought a 93 olds Cutlass with 108k mi. Confirmed for sure needs a timing belt. All of your info will come in handy guaranteed. Also doing plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and whatever else comes up in the process. Again, thank you all so much! Pics to come2 points -
TGP hood vent repair.
Mach 5 and one other reacted to rich_e777 for a topic
Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat2 points -
Hey all. New here.............
pwmin reacted to KevenP for a topic
and to Pontiac's. Picked up an '02 Grand Prix SE for the missus. 116K miles and I've already replaced the intake gaskets. Anything else to look out for?1 point -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
White93z34 reacted to Schurkey for a topic
My first timing belt replacement, I did not use any of the "special tools" from the Kent-Moore kit. With all the parts removed to access the timing belt but tensioner still installed, I used a "paint pen" to mark the belt and the toothed sprockets before the old belt came off. Then I counted the number of teeth between each painted mark on the old belt, and transferred paint marks to the new belt. The new belt then went onto the engine with the paint marks on the belt exactly lined-up with the paint marks on the toothed sprockets. Install tensioner, and allow it to take up the slack. Reinstall all the rest of the stuff removed for belt access. Done. Since then, I've used the various special tools, which does make the job go faster and allow for "perfect" OEM-spec cam timing, or adjusting the intake and exhaust cams differently if a person cared, and was exceedingly careful. I'm re-using the tensioner, and re-using the corregated bushing thingies that go between sprocket and cam on the earlier engines. (Later engines use a different system, but none of my belt jobs have been on the later-version engines.)1 point -
Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass
j_train5344 reacted to jiggity76 for a topic
Not sure if you care about it or not but it looks like you're missing the lug nut caps. Very pretty car though!1 point -
'94 Grand Prix SE sedan, installing subwoofer (stock 4-speaker radio)
Robbie reacted to 55trucker for a topic
For speaker level input on any car amp tapping into (or paralleling) the existing circuit is not the proper way to do this. The head unit's amp section is designed to drive four 4 ohm channels, if you upset that impedance to the rears by adding another load in parallel into the circuit you'll cause issues for the head unit amplifier possibly causing the head unit to fail. The proper method would be to open the circuit to the rear channels & plumb in the amplifier using the left & right speaker level inputs to the amp, then reapply the left & right rear channels using 2 of the amps four channels to the parcel shelf speakers & the 2nd set of amp outputs in a bridged mode circuit to the *new* sub. To do this one needs a 4/1 or a 4 channel amp, 2 of the 4 channels out go to the rear parcel shelf speakers & the other 2 channels are bridged into 1 that go to the sub... ASSUMING the sub is a single voice coil driver, if the sub has dual voice coils then no bridging is required.1 point -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
Bake82 reacted to Schurkey for a topic
I'll accept the flat-blade vs. wrench. Truth is, I don't remember how I did it all those years ago. I have drained oil out of, and refilled the tensioners on the few belt replacements I've done--four, perhaps.1 point -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 reacted to 55trucker for a topic
1 point -
Do 1st gen w-bodies have strut tower rot issues?
jiggity76 reacted to 94 olds vert for a topic
Eventually, they will rust out. It's not a common spot. Typically 1st gens are going to have TA mount rust, and some sheet metal rust by the rear wheels.1 point -
Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt
cutlassman reacted to 55trucker for a topic
The dia of the sensor body would allow the sensor to slide in & out without effort, it's the O-ring that would hold it in place. As long as one can get a grip on what's left to rotate it back & forth it will release.1 point -
convertible carpeting
rich_e777 reacted to cjc for a topic
Just found this site while looking for carpet to fit my 93 vert, has anybody determined of a coupe will work and with how trouble.1 point -
Truck open swtich
94 olds vert reacted to ManicMechanic for a topic
I remember my cars having had an on/off switch near the latch. It was to shut off the trunk lock button to keep prying eyes out while the top is down.1 point -
97 cutty ls4 swap
carkhz316 reacted to Donny_olds for a topic
Got cooling system and all accessories on. Having some trouble getting tranny to shift, we used a 4l80 as reference for pinning the harness to the ecu and we can get it into first manually but no luck shifting, any tips?? IMG_1476.MOV1 point -
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97 cutty ls4 swap
carkhz316 reacted to Megavolt-380 for a topic
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Placement of Jack and Jack Stands
90sEraWhips reacted to 94 olds vert for a topic
Check out Jiggity76's post in this thread. I also use the front engine cradle, and the rear lift point to jack it up (center of the vehicle in the rear under the monoleaf). Then jack stands on the engine cradle, and depending on rust issues, either the factory pinch welds or the trailing arm mounts. A manual should have detailed information where to jack up the vehicle from.1 point -
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4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Schurkey for a topic
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat=4T60E&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=105&parent_id=105 Shift kit and accumulator parts. I've come to appreciate Transgo shift kits vs. B&M or other "famous names". There's a bunch of different wiring changes on the 4T60E, at the big round connector. For example, I can't swap a 92 Euro 3.4 trans into a '93 Euro 3.4 car. I have a Kent-Moore "special tool" that can shift the transmission into all the different gears, but there's a bunch of different wiring adapters depending on what application the trans is configured for. I don't have many of the wiring adapters.1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to 55trucker for a topic
A 92 with a 3.1 (LHO) engine you'll have the 440T4(4T60) trans which was the predecessor to the 4T60E, if you're going to attempt to do this yourself see these links. the *master* kit doesn't include the *hard* material, http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60_transmission_master_kit_p/370-000037003.htm you'll need the additional items to replace the damaged internals http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60_transmission_solenoids_s/6401.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60_Transmission_thrust_washers_bearings_s/6387.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_4T60E_Vacuum_Modulator_s/6397.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_transmission_parts_s/6392.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_transmission_bands_s/6386.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/440T4_transmission_filter_s/6385.htm http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Transmission_Repair_Manuals_s/6395.htm obviously you've got to have a manual to guide you..........there will be need to remove & replace any worn bearing (some of them will be needle bearings), assembling the clutch piston, a guide for selecting the proper thrust washers for the input shaft end play, Try to get an proper manual for the trans, the more exploded views you see will help the process. good luck with this1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Imp558 for a topic
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4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to NCTyphoonKid for a topic
Sounds good, I've been looking at rock auto and they sell rebuild kits for the 4t60 reasonably1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Galaxie500XL for a topic
Someone had asked for my old write-up on the TCC apply issue, with no overdrive when hot. http://www.w-body.com/topic/41994-95-dohc-cutlass-p0740-no-overdrive-no-tcc-when-hot/1 point -
4t60 transmission rebuild
90sEraWhips reacted to Galaxie500XL for a topic
If your 4th gear is working when cold, then goes away when the transmission is warm, you probably have an issue with the TCC apply piston...pretty common on the 4T60. The piston is known for galling the cylinder it rides in, and then it sticks in the bore. With the torque converter clutch unable to lock the converter, the ECM disables overdrive to try to save the transmission from high temperatures. I had this problem with my '95 Cutlass convertible, and it actually took a second rebuild by the transmission shop to resolve it, because they didn't listen the first time when I told them what the problem was. A scantool that can read torque converter slip percentage data from the ECM can confirm what's happening. Mine would work perfectly, until transmission temps exceeded 180 degrees, then it would disable 4th. Shutting down, and restarting the car once it was warm would allow 4th to work for a minute or so, then the ECM would disable overdrive again. You might find that simply replacing the valve body resolves the problem. There's a fairly long description of the problem that I wrote on this forum about 8 years ago that more fully describes the problem.1 point -
1990 3.1 Lumina, no start/hesitate/throttle problems
90sEraWhips reacted to R Crusoe for a topic
Sounds like my experience with 1989 Grand Prix SE with 2.8 L and 5 speed manual. Engine would start ok, then when accellerator was pressed, the engine would bog down and then die. This happened on a trip to Florida from Chicago and about 10 PM on a dark and lonely off ramp from I-10. Had car towed to mechanic in Chattahooche, Florida and he spent three days investigating problem and by accident found one of the injectors was shorting out. He replaced only 1 injector and I was on my way. Since then I've had other instances of the same problem and have finally solved it. Replaced the crankshaft position sensor and all 6 injectors. Have learned that original equipment injectors for 2.8 and 3.1 engines tended to short out and when one goes, the way it's wired, causes the engine to shut down. Replaced all original injectors with Bosch DRI injectors obtained from Linder Fuel Services in Speedway, Indiana. The engine never sounded better after job was done. Takes about an hour to remove plenum, fuel rail, and injectors and reassemble. I think I could do it blindfolded now for all the times I've had that plenum off.1 point -
1990 3.1 Lumina, no start/hesitate/throttle problems
90sEraWhips reacted to joecutlass for a topic
I had the exact same issue with my cutlass. When i say exact, i mean exactly as you described your problem. It is the fuel injectors. Could be one or more. I had three bad injectors when it started to do it to me, and after replacing those with used injectors, two more went bad, so i went and got 6 new, not remanufactured, injectors. Ohm test the injectors. Im 100% sure this is your problem.1 point -
Where exactly is the CPS sensor on the 1990 Chevy Lumina 3.1 Vin T engine?
90sEraWhips reacted to carkhz316 for a topic
^This. Either some anti-sieze or die-electric grease would be the best to use.1 point -
Where exactly is the CPS sensor on the 1990 Chevy Lumina 3.1 Vin T engine?
90sEraWhips reacted to carkhz316 for a topic
I was gonna share my couple experiences, but this write-up pretty much covers the same: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/16057-crankshaft-position-sensor-tutorial1 point -
Where exactly is the CPS sensor on the 1990 Chevy Lumina 3.1 Vin T engine?
90sEraWhips reacted to bobotech for a topic
Ugh, I tried searching on CPS in the search forum tool and it comes up with zero results. I can't find any old posts related to this topic. Is the search function not functioning when searching for stuff like "CPS"?1 point -
Where exactly is the CPS sensor on the 1990 Chevy Lumina 3.1 Vin T engine?
90sEraWhips reacted to AWeb80 for a topic
right below the DP on the back of the engine in line with the crank in the middle of the block. If it had a manual trans you could remove it in 10 seconds. But an auto is tougher I've heard. I just replaced mine when I had my engine out.1 point -
any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful
90sEraWhips reacted to Addicted To Boost for a topic
OH and use just regular AC Delco plugs. Don't use platinum or bosch plugs, they are junk and our ignition systems hate them.1 point -
any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful
90sEraWhips reacted to mike_lumina92 for a topic
yeah, i got a magna flow muffler and dual exhuasts at the muffler shop already paid for, i jus need to take time to go get them put on, tune up and cold air intake will these make it noticably faster or powerfull1 point -
any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful
90sEraWhips reacted to Addicted To Boost for a topic
Give it a full tuneup, a cold air intake, and some Magnaflow muffler(s).1 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to 1QUICKHATCH for a topic
reliability is only as good as your maintenance. keep up on the maintenance and you should not have any problems. I have seen several 3400's and 3800's with well over 325,000kms on them (200,000mi)1 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to 1QUICKHATCH for a topic
3400 swap is the best for your $ 3400 will bolt in place of your 3100 and run on the same harness/ecm 3400 has aftermarket just have to look in the right places! 3400 can make plenty of power too just lots of people like the 3800 s/c because it came with boost from the factory and responds well to a smaller pully! a few guys with 3400's in j-bodys are making good power with boost check out this guy http://khturbo.net/rmtz24/RMTZ24.html 1989 Z24 5-speed '02 3400 V6, 10psi of Turbo Best 1/4- 12.41 at 112.8 328HP/352TQ to the wheels on a stock 3400 with a turbo! another J-body with a stock bottem end 3400 ran 12.21@118 two weekends ago, he has home ported heads, cam, centrifugal supercharger, headers and a few other mods! just giving you some ideas before you swap to a 3800!1 point -
3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap
90sEraWhips reacted to White93z34 for a topic
3400 as far as simplicity will be almost a direct swap. there are a few things that need to be changed but it would be hands down the most straightforward a 3800 would be a little more involved, but again fairly straightforward.1 point -
2000-2005 Impala/M Carlo rims onto 90-99 Lumina/M carlo.
90sEraWhips reacted to Pabz for a topic
got 97 regal rims to fit my 89, less than 1 more millimeter and they would touch. most people say it cant be done without spacers. Other alt is to go with the 96+ style knuckles ans struts i think.1 point -
2000-2005 Impala/M Carlo rims onto 90-99 Lumina/M carlo.
90sEraWhips reacted to bluegp for a topic
IIRC, 1st gen wheels have around +35mm offset while 2nd gen wheels have around +52mm. So, a 2nd gen wheel on a 1st gen will sit farther inboard. I can't say for sure if it would hit anything, but I think I remember one or two people here that have used spacers to mount up 2nd gen wheels (z34_nut is one) Here's an old post (with z34_nut's picture): http://www.w-body.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=231721 point -
3800 Swap Into A Lumina..
90sEraWhips reacted to 1990lumina for a topic
Could it be done? I've been sorta looking for either a 3.4 or a 3800 series 1 to swap into my Lumina. My dad told me the 3800 is a strong and reliable engine. The only OBD1 3800 engine is from an early Regal right?? Would a 3800 be able to be swapped into my Lumina, and use most of the same wiring and same transmission (4T60)? I've also been looking at possibily doing the 3.4 swap, but (I'm not trying to satrt a flame war) I'd like a little more reliable engine. I know my 3.1 thats in there now is probably the most reliable egnine I've owned, and I'm thinking the 3800 would be decently reliable as well. And no, I don't want to do the #800 Series II Super charged engine swap (L67 right??) just because I don't want all the hassle lol.. So, any insightwould be helpful, and I might start shopping around for a nice series 1 3800 with decently low miles on it. Thanks! - Jeff L.1 point -
3800 Swap Into A Lumina..
90sEraWhips reacted to DiscoStudd for a topic
The 91-95 L27 (3800 Series I) put out 170 HP and 225 lb/ft of TQ. You could always swap in an L36 (3800 Series II) and use the wiring and computer from, say, a 91 Regal with the L27. The L36 puts out 200 HP and 235 TQ, and will run on the older L27's OBD-I computer. IIRC, the L27-equipped Regals received the 4T60-E starting in 91, so you may want to swap in an "E" tranny to go along with that L36 (the 96 Regals could be equipped with the L36/4T60-E combo, but had OBD-II.)1 point -
440-T4/4t60 upgrades and/or swaps with 4t60e/4t65e parts
90sEraWhips reacted to Robby1870 for a topic
well, about the only thing you can do to a 4T60 from a N/A car is rebuild it with parts from a 4T60 out of a turbo grand prix. The 4T60 in the turbo grand prix is the same as in 2.8 and 3.1L N/A cars, just a lot beefier, like better valve body and torque converter for example. There is a shift kit on top of that, I think, but it can only be installed during a rebuild, from what I have heard. While you got the motor apart, get a crank from a 3.1L, cuz a 3.1L is simply a stroked 2.8L. I would get the 3.1L crank because of the torque gain you will see. The 4th gear on the 4T60 is very weak, but I dont think you'll be doin high speed runs in a dune buggy. If you rebuild the 4T60 with parts from a 4T60 out of a turbo grand prix it will hold 210-220HP. The stock trubo grand prixs had like 205HP and 225lb/ft which was limited. Just rebiuld with those parts and you should be good. Good Luck!!! Welcome to the board Robby1 point