Leaderboard

Manic and I were just kinda talking about this subject. 1991 was the last year for the UB3 cluster (like your vert). You could still get the base digital cluster in 92 and 93, otherwise it was an analog one. Some verts have the base digital cluster but are not very common but more common on sedans. Actually, a maintenance guy at work has a 92 CS sedan with the base digital cluster. He recently had to get it repaired. How did I do guys?

This is the place I got my moldmaking rubber and plastic from years ago. It was easy to work with, all you need is a single good one to pull a mold from and you can reproduce infinite replacements for a few cents a piece, and in a variety of colors. There are different grades of plastics and some of them are VERY tough. https://www.smooth-on.com

What about finding OEM at the JY and restoring them to new?

The other day I saw a ‘92 Cutlass Supreme coupe with the base digital cluster in it. I thought after ‘91 they went back to analog clusters? Were digital and analog offered in ‘92?

There are exceptions to every rule. I came across this 1993 S sedan with a full digital cluster a long time ago. It was definitely added but I'd love to know the story as to why, it isn't a straight swap.

This is the one Advance auto sells on the right. Overall not bad but they could have done the reliefs under the door handle cleaner. I have to release the handle quickly to get it to settle in it's fully rested position too. Take lots of pictures of the inside before you dismantle it and be careful with the fragile lock illumination ring.

That may be true. But if it helps someone get to/from work and makes their life easier, that's okay too. That's still far better than selling it to the mechanic who damaged it just so he can flip it and profit from his mistake. /of course, if it went home with you, I'm sure that'd be even better treatment for the car. //just sayin'

Grounds especially, engine to frame/battery

Yeah, pulling the light sensor might fix it. I had to do that on a '97 Cadillac I used to have. The sensor went wonky and it would go into DRL mode, regardless of how dark it was outside, which meant I didn't have dash lights. Once I pulled the sensor, it worked just fine as a manual system.

This car has been through hell and umm... hell. heres one like circa 2007 or something. was my moms car since new September 15 1989.. the 88 got stolen this one was the replacement. which got broken in to in the lot before delivery. I was born on the 18 that month and year.. this car took me home. I went from the back seat to the front seat to the driver seat. was the first car I ever turbod and manual swapped. at one point in time its new home was almost at the junk yard but I got talked out of it.. had money issues and was just frustrated. college lyfe... on the eve of xmas 2010 that was the last time my mother was in this car. the oil line broke getting on to the Wantagh parkway leaving the 2 of us stranded. after fixing the oil line the engine had a knock. it was done. it sat after that. in 2012 my mother passed away. she never got a chance to ride in the car again. so I make it a point to keep it the rest of my life. Its sentimental. .... in I believe it was 2014 got it running again made for some decent footage and while racing a mustang 5.0 and a Ferrari.. not sure of what model. cylinder #5 valve broke locking the engine up. its sat ever since that day.. finally dug it out. and that is why I decided to post the picture. here. its only fair that I submit a picture in its worst shape to show that even when its lacking its former glory it is still a piece of w-body.com history. -Jarek

Lol, I kind of like that picture. Then next year an after shot.

Submitted this one!

I replaced the old one with one of these, I like t better. Pretty sure I still have 2. Maybe I should add it to your pile

sooo....what did you pull off the car for me?.......

Funny, I always though it was "Slow your ROLL" ?

Just bought a GM-3 ABS adapter today for the MT2500. I wasn't thinking about it, but I had a watcher set up on eBay and a guy in Texas posted one for sale.

Would just like to share with everyone that a LQ1 ‘91 Cutlass sedan has been found in Missouri. This is the only photo available. Wether if it’s for sale or not is unknown as it sits at an abandoned house.

We don't appear to have a good pictorial write-up for this in FAQ's. That's surprising since it's been done and discussed so many times.

There is no replacement for snow tires in that climate. All seasons suck at everything. <-----------Lived in MN for 23 years.

Isn't there a problem with the plastic plenum and a turbo? It seems like guys do aluminum so I always assumed they flexed too much for boost and leaked. I don't know for sure. That car looks really good, hope you make it to a meet some time.

I bet it's crumble zone related, softening the front end so less shock reaches the weaker passenger compartment in a front end collision.

GM in its infamous cost sharing technique used the headlight in the... - 1992-1997 Cutlass Supreme -1992-1996 Grand Prix -1993-1997 Camaro - 1992-1993 Geo Storm

He saved an awful lot of stuff to help a lot of other cars, not a home run but can't complain about a double.

I'll buy a set. Aluminum, plastic, steel, wood, rubber, scrimshaw, I don't care as long as they fit, mine isn't a show car. Currently I just have the original broken plastic pieces wrapped in duct tape and jammed back in the hole in the header. I could engineer a better solution, but I've got so many other projects going on I'd rather just let someone else figure it out and pay them. I would prefer an easy replacement, something I could just drop in with some adhesive without having to disassemble the header.

I experimented on this last night. I didn't get to the solution, but wanted to update everyone on progress. I took the valve stem seal, along with a rubber grommet and external spring clip (both bought from Lowes). I then inserted the grommet into the hole on the spare windshield header I have. Then I cut 3 small groves in the valve stem seal with a dremel so the external spring clip can lock around the valve stem seal and test fitted the spring clip. It locks nice and tight around the valve stem seal. Then I inserted the valve stem into the grommet and put the spring clip on. Nice and tight fit and all is good right? Nope. What I didn't account for is the windshield frame. The windshield header (which is what I mounted the valve stem seal in) mounts to the windshield frame. There's a hole in the windshield frame directly under the hole in the windshield header. The original cup is longer so it can pass through both the windshield header and the windshield frame with enough length to attach the locking washer. As you can see, the valve stem seal isn't long enough to pass through both header and frame. It looks like it comes through far enough, but it doesn't. This pic was taken with the rubber grommet removed...the valve stem seal just isn't long enough. This would work if you wanted to remove the header, secure the valve stem seal to the header as I've shown, then put the header back on the frame. I'm going to look for some longer valve stem seals and see what I can come up with.