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So, as some of you may know... I bought a 1992 Olds Cutlass Supreme S from my Aunts Estate. I bought it cheap enough, I just want to make back what I put into it. I have no intentions of keeping the car, as my back cant take getting in and out of such a low car (5 blown discs). She has 103,911 actual miles on it presently. This is what it looked like when I picked it up from the driveway, where it hasnt moved in 4-5 years. (Thats my son in that next to last pic) I have since cleaned it up a lot, a full size trash can full of trash and other detritus. I replaced the battery new (35) Replaced the primary cooling fan motor new (30) I ripped out the single din kenwood 4x15w radio. It sounded like ass, and looked worse. I dropped in my radio from storage that I thought someone would have bought, but no one did LOL. So it now has a Pioneer Premier DEH-66DH 1.5 din 4x45w on stock speakers, and sounds so much better. My plan was to put in one of the Pontiac 5 band tape decks I have, but one read LOC on the screen, and I dont have the patience to get it unlocked (suggestions?). And the other worked just fine, but the antenna plug was screwed up, and would not receive any radio stations. (free) It had a 1/4 tank of 4-5 year old ethanol gas in it. I topped it off with straight no-ethanol gas. Engine idle smoothed out a lot, and she runs great. Took the front tires/rims off, and dropped them off at my local tire dealer to get some new tires (81) I sure do miss the sound a of 3.1 like I had in my old TGP and 6000. It still has a R12 AC system that is dead. So I need to get it converted over to R134a, will make a sale a lot easier. ($?) Plans at the moment are to get the tires put back on when they get in. Tire dealer didnt carry any tires of this size, and they are barely made any more. Already has new brake pads, brake calipers, front wheel bearings.I have not taken the back apart to see what it looks like. The parking brake is frozen. Not sure what I am going to be able to do there. So far I am not into it for as much as I was planning. I was planning on a dead car realisticly. Good for only junk. But after a lot of cranking, she fired. Dead and fried battery on jumper cables did not help. And then as soon as I would touch the brake pedal, or headlights, it would just shut off and die. Made it a pain since I had to have the car out by a certain time because of the Denver Curfew since DA rioters and protesters cant do it peacefully. Clear coat on the paint is almost non-existent and splotchy, with some 50 Denver Broncos stickers on it. Interior is near perfect. No tears in the seats, hardly any fading (surprisingly), power seat works great, digital dash works perfectly, ashtray has never been used, dashpad is near perfect (nearly because my cousin used thumbtacks to hold on a dash pad cover), Steering wheel is also near perfect (has had a broncos steering wheel cover on it for 25 years), power windows work perfect, spare tire and jack are present and never used. It had factory wheel locks, but those have all been removed, and replaced with standard wheel lugs. So its sitting in my garage, up on jack stands until the tires get in. I got to find out if any R12 is still in the system, and figure out what to do about that, and get it converted. Once thats done, I think she is going back on the market. With the miles and mechanical condition, I think I should be able to get 12-1500. The Cutlass is certainly taking more work than the Corsica I also bought. It just needs the Heater Core replaced, rear brakes adjusted (done), new battery (done), and a clean out (done) and vacuum. If it wasnt for my back, I would seriously consider keeping this one. The early 3100 Chevy Corsicas apparently were nearly indestructible, with many reports of them going to well over 300k with little to no work. It rides smooth as better, great power, and shifts well. Replacing that heater core is going to be a bitch thou.

OK. I can see the jacking block. Now I just need to figure out how to get my fat ass into a position where I can actually get the jack onto it. Unfortunately, my garage is not the best garage for working on cars. I have maybe a foot in front of and behind the car, and I backed it in because at least I can open the garage door to get more space to work under the hood.

The Gen 2 cars have an opening in the floorpan above the tank to get access to the pump assembly. The port is in the trunk. One disconnects (quick disconnects) the pressure side line and inserts a long length of similar sized tubing fed to a container & let the pump run until the tank is near empty. Otherwise remove the vehicle fuel pump & pick one of these ....and screw on some hose to each end & chuck it into a drill & this little pump will drain the tank.

Here’s the lastest addition to my fleet. Purchased yesterday from the original owner. it’s life has been spent in Minnesota, currently has 157k on it. pic is the last one of the original owner and the car vin is 1G5WP14V0LF289102

I'll sit down and write up a "what I did" article. I'm in the middle of a 5 speed swap now. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

It'll depend on rust, really. It's been a long time since I worked on a 60 degree, but I think the manifold points down at really awkward angle almost necessitating getting at it from th bottom. Regardless, take a look at the back of the motor and see if you have any clearance from the top. When you're ready to take it apart, I'd let the engine run for a while and get warm, then shut it down, spray some Deep Creep on the threads, then attack it when it's cooled down.

Honestly surprised you dont know as much as your into these cars. Thats the infamous oil pump drive shaft that in order to change the oring seal on the LQ1 requires the head to be pulled to remove. It loves to leak oil. If its leaking you might be able to lift it slightly and pick the old seal out. Then as you rotate the shaft squeeze some RTV under the lip all the way around. Looks like that was done before at some point. IIRC one member ground the head down to get the shaft out without removing the head.

The O ring that was supplied in the intake gasket kit will the O ring for the throttle body passage in the intake manifold. Gm really dropped the ball when it comes the cylinder head casting, one thinks that after the head was put into place they realized that one cannot remove the distributor drive at all. From that pic of your Greg, I do not see a terrible mess there, perhaps clean that area up before attempting to dislodge the O ring.

There are two common oil leaks in that general area, one is the distributor plug seal/gasket (what you are looking at) and the other is the oil distribution cover. The rectangle to the passenger side of the oil distributor plug. It is the rectangle cover that has that "Z" shaped part on the top. You can see the cover in the top picture, lower left. The oil distribution cover gasket can be ordered from one of the GM part places, but it also comes in a set that I got off of RockAuto closeout stuff. Much cheaper the RA way.

I've been talking to NCTyphoonKid and I think I'm just going to flush it with clean fresh gas. The tank is beautiful inside as I don't see any rust thru the pump opening. Hey, since your available here right now, I've been looking thru some threads. Do you know what this is? It has silicone around it and was wondering if I need to do any preventative maintenance on it. I don't want oil leaks. I'm replacing the intake gaskets right now.

Glad to have found this thread. I'm in the process of replacing the intake gaskets on my LQ1. Is this the O-ring gasket that you guys are referring too? If so, does this go under the Oil Distribution Cover? I'm also wondering about oil coming from this area in the 1st pic. There is silicone around the base of it and looks like a failure point.

I might have to do this to but not on a W body. Would a about a gallon of seafoam sloshed around in there take care of everything? Looks like its been seal from the pump but is there alot of rust in it?

I just wanted to second this. Earlier in this thread I said my keyless entry module was acting erratically in programming mode. I resoldered all the solder joints on both boards in the module and now it works great, both in my vehicle and on my test bench. The only annoying part is the conformal coating. It makes the iron want to slip off the solder joints. But you can still resolder through it without going through the trouble of trying to remove the coating. Just have to be careful as you're holding the iron. If the module is acting up I would definitely recommend trying this. Add a little bit of new fresh solder to each joint as you do it.

The solder points on the box aren't small or intricate or anything, you could definitely do it yourself with a low cost iron. Good learning project.

Awesome I appreciate it. Now to find someone to fix it cause I can’t solder to save my life.

Hello All, I'm working on my Cutlass again ( see: ) The next project is to make it roll. For that I'm trying to get all for wheels off the ground and each corner on a jack stand I have the front end up on stands now, but it occurred to me that I don't think in the 20+ years I've owned this car that I have ever had the rear end up on jack stands, so two questions: 1) is there somewhere safe to jack up the whole rear end of the car, or should I do one corner at a time 2) Where is the best place to put the stands? I may have the car up on the stands for a few weeks, since I can only work an hour or so at a time, i.e. stability is critical. Thanks, Paul

Tires on, rear brakes are new and operational, including parking brake. Just need to do the windshield and AC now, and she is done! Took the Corsica out to get some gas last night, need to dilute down the 5 year old ethanol gas thats in it, to make it reliably driveable. My grandfather had a locking gas cap on it, no idea why (it was always garage kept), and since it had not been operated in 5 years, it was a bit frozen! Need to order the heater core, and get it to work to recharge the AC. Tires come next week. Found an incredible deal on some Michelin Defender T+H, new, for 35 a piece. Normally they are 116 a piece. Love my Michelins...

Awesome! That looks like the one. Thanks!

Oh yea, absolutely rust free. Colorado doesnt use salt, they use sand. Bad for paint, good for frames. I know my aunt lived in colorado for the last 5 years she owned it, and my cousin the 15 years before that was also a colorado resident. Its the 8 years before that are unknown. My grandfather bought it for my cousin back in 2000 from a neighbor of his, so I have to assume it was a colorado car for that time as well. On the upside, got the title today, and the Corsica is a 94 and not a 93. Not sure if that helps the value any thou.

As stated & shown the lifting point is the centre lifting pad to the rear of the fuel tank, the stands would be placed under the triangular shaped structural support just in front of the trailing arms at the chassis end.

LOL, I have a one car apartment garage but that hasn't stopped me from getting things done. Just need to get creative! I like having the front end towards the garage door. The daylight helps out alot in helping me see things under the hood.

The idea of the seatbelt on these was actually ingenious but just not thoroughly thought out. The fact of not having to remove the seatbelt to enter and exit is nice but fighting with a door being pulled closed by the seatbelt calls for some foul language. I never used them on my W-Body. That was the click that was heard. Ford was not any better. Nothing like being strangled by the automatic belt as you close the door.

In NY there is no safe jacking point Get a flat and try to jack up by the jacking point, Crunch there goes the rocker. I have had to think of creative ways to secure vehicles. I guess this varies on the location and condition of the vehicle lol.

I replied to your jack stand question in the other thread. Good luck and I look forward to seeing your restoration efforts on this one!

You could space them down with some fat washers. That spring loaded bolt on the bottom looks like an adjustment point,do they not angle down with that?

Huh.. I learned something I guess. I really really swear my Lumina and TGPs were definitely not like that.

To test the fuel gauge & sender.................

Looks right to me.

Hey guys. I apologize for not posting the pictures for the staples/tack strip reinforcement. I did travel to Botswana last December/January. Sad to say, I had an accident. But it wasn't a write off. I'll discuss it in my own thread. I took a couple of pictures to show the reinforcement, but I was so down, I didn't have the will to remove the plastic piece to expose the tack strip. It's an involved process that requires reaching inside behind the back seat to undo 3 screws. I just didn't have it in me. So, the pictures are not very clear, but I hope you can make out the metal strip under the plastic, enough to understand the concept. I have a strip at both c-pillars, and another by the 3rd brake light. Make sure the metal is filed/sanded smooth so it doesn't cut the top. Guys, I apologize for the delay, and for not removing the plastic covers to expose the tack strip. I didn't use stainless staples, and so they did rust. And I didn't apply the butyl sealant over top of the seam like I should have. So, reinforce the seam with metal strip, then add the butyl sealant, or whatever you choose to use to make the seam water tight. I hope this helps guys. Mabuza.

You could replace the clamp, or if not a issue have it welded. If rust is a concern then I would be leery of welding it for later replacement.

I found out what the exhaust leak was, the EGR tube bracket was rusted and broken in half, it also didn't even have a gasket on it, also the EGR valve was installed backwards.

If the pump works, you could remove the fuel line or the schrader valve and pump out the old fuel by energizing it. If the pump is dead, remove the tank access door and use any number of items to pump the fuel from the tank.

Because shops are by and large parts changers and not technicians. Its also not OBD 2 so it may as well be hieroglyphics to many at this point For something like this its IMO largely unnecessary to even poses a scantool, its a really simple EFI system. I did diagnosis on this sort of thing for many years before I bought a scantool.

That coolant pipe is going to have to get out of the way for any sort of puller to get on the HB from what I can see on mine. Mine is still supported by the bay tool and it looks as if the engine may have to come down an inch or two to get access too. Yes you`ll need a certain tool to remove and reinstall but its not that complicated to use.

there is also the possability that the flange on the downpipe is worn excessively and is part of the issue. Chances are a spring rusted/broke on the spring bolts or the donut is worn out. Won't really know till you get in there. Swivel sockets will be your best friend here.

Usual course of action is from under the car, acetylene for heat, impact gun with a very long extension and a deep socket/swivel on the end.

I've heard stories, Some place in the midwest... some place in Quebec... There was a time that I called every gear vendor I could find in North America, including Getrag NA they basically told me to get lost, they sold all that crap to someone else, I tried following up with that someone else... that was years ago now I forget who it was. I've pulled all the diagrams of 284s. I have a broken one to experiment on when I find the time. But fundamentally, without a source for new blocking rings/synchronizers we're stuffed. Brearings, seals are relatively standard and can be obtained through one way or another.... unless we're talking input shaft seals. 284 ones are impossible to obtain, i'm sure that could be worked out though. So basically no one is making the essential blocking rings or input shaft seals... so what can be done? As I see it without original technical drawings we have no way of knowing exactly to what specification the blocking rings were made to. This could be somewhat overcome with disassembly of a known working 284 and you could get an idea of how worn the components are. Now taking all that knowledge you could make cad files of the parts and find machine shops willing to do runs of the components, this is probably quite expensive and would require buy in from a bunch of people to make it worth the while. The upshot of that is most people only have issues with the second and third gear blockers going bad so that in theory 2 parts. This is one of my many backburner projects, I'll get around to it one of these years.

Welcome to the forum! "Quantic08"? Are you a Marine by chance? I'm retired Navy, so if you are, Semper Fi I currently own four cars with the 3.4 DOHC engine and three of them are running very well. The one that's not running is a car that I bought not running and haven't gotten to it yet. Two of my four cars are 5 speeds too. One is my daily driver and the other one is the one that doesn't run (yet). Again, welcome aboard!

Thanks. Found the part number searching the forum, and ordered one online. Hopefully be here next week, and have the rest of the stuff coming, should have it back together next weekend.

Not being able to see what you're referring to .. the only O-ring that would be included in the kit would be the coolant bypass O ring that is between the plenum & the intake... it is to the rear of the coolant thermostat housing, right under the throttle body

Yeah, this site is pretty good for LQ1 info. Only other place that would be a good source for LQ1 info is the Fiero forum, they like to use the LQ1 in their cars. I've actually seen one of em make a custom intake for their LQ1. All LQ1 cars are rare now. Z34s, GTPs, Cutlass Supremes. It shouldn't but there's always a possibility. Amistydj grenaded his 95 LQ1 engine redlining the hell out of his engine. Of course in his situation he had a bad pulley and that might have made a lot of difference in the situation. I however also had this issue before (timing belt breaking) on my 94 and it survived even though it was hard as hell to time it. TLDR, LQ1s usually don't grenade themselves if they don't interfere however it can always happen.

Then if the belt breaks on a '93 LQ1 passing six grand the engine will not grenade ? That is really good to know. Since the service records show that the belt was changed fifteen years and 55,000 miles ago, I have been reluctant to take over four and feels like that is where it starts to go. Guess 9.5:1 compression and .390" lift is enough for non-interference. Also the FSM indicate the belt is not "old" until past 70,000 miles. Did get a Delco 1808A sender and will see if that makes the gauge show pressure and not just be a switch.

Wow, how'd I miss this thread? I can't wait to see what it looks like after a good bath inside and out. I have the weirdest craving to want to clean that car right now...lol. Welcome to the site, excited to see the progress! Any photos of the GMC you're working on?

Thanks jiggity76 this is my first wbody and love the color!

That will be a sweet Ride Jiggity76 I am also new to the site and so far everyone that i have talked with is Awesome and full Of great Info. Cant wait to see what this becomes!!!!!

I rarely see first gens anymore, 2nf d gens everywhere, third gens are getting to be pretty commonplace

6 or 7 years ago now, first Gens used to be everywhere in the yards. Now I'm seeing more and more 3rd gens in there.

Theres a lot of good information on here. Start a new thread with info so we can help you diagnose the car whenever youre ready to start working on it.

Welcome to the site! Looks like a nice project.

Doing a *complete* flush of the entire cooling system shouldn't be necessary to solve your problem there. To properly *bleed* the system........you don't need to park on an incline, fill the system thru the rap cap to approx 2" below the filler neck, with the cap off let the engine run until the engine comes up to near running temp (as the temp comes up the fluid & air will expand), as the thermostat opens there should be a drop in the fluid level at the cap, when you see the fluid level drop refill to the top of the filler neck (the engine is still running). Now close the cap to seal the system, let the pressure build up and then open both of the bleeders just enough to get a forceful shot of air/fluid flowing from them (it will be white/foamy). When the flow begins to subside close the bleeders and let the pressure build up again, repeat the procedure with the bleeders....eventually you will see less foam & more coolant/anitfreeze, repeat this until you see no foam or tiny air bubbles when you open the bleeders. Shut off the engine, carefully open the rad cap (rag over your hand) to check the fluid level & top up again, close the cap, repeat the bleed process, when you get no air from the bleeders fill the overflow tank & you're done. This process can take as long as an hour so be patient.