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I’m the new owner of a 1990 Olds Cutlass Supreme sedan. Nothing too fancy here. It sat for fifteen years in what appeared to be somewhat adversarial conditions. It was located in the bayous of Cut Off, Louisiana, and it’s currently staying under the carport of my childhood home in Mississippi. It’s a 3.1L/4T60 car. It’s got crank windows and manual seats but power windows and locks. It’s got the base model digital cluster, cruise control, A/C, and the more basic radio option, however with a tape deck. So far, I’ve only been able to change the oil and filter, battery, and flush the cooling system (although I’m concerned that it didn’t do much good). Trying to crank it over yielded no results, and I don’t hear any fuel pump activity in the tank. A shot of starting fluid in the throttle body yielded a quick popping off. I bought a new pump, filter, and strainer sock I’m scared that the whole sender will be a chunk of rust, and it won’t read the level properly or at all which leads me to what doesn’t work electronically... I’ll post those issues in the appropriate section. Here are the photos from the night I went to look at it two weeks ago today. My profile picture is a more recent picture after a two hour struggle at the car wash.

I just got some cool info back from the GM Heritage Center on the 91 International. I want to get as much info as I can including the invoice info. Here's what I found out. Looks like it stickered for $23,619.00 which according to an inflation calculator, equals almost $44,000! Wow! The dealer is still doing business. I'll eventually get the STE invoice info done too. Invoice - 3A002541875 OLDSMOBILE DIVISION 1991 CUTLASS SUPREME I SERIES COUPE CO*V6G GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION 4040*WHITE *Q5****RED***CLOTH LANSING MICHIGAN 48921 ORDER NO. ZZL121 - STOCK VIN 1G3 WR14 X0 MD352491 SALES MODEL & FAC. OPTS. 3WR47 CUTLASS SUPREME I S MSRP 19695.00 INV AMT 16996.9 INVOICED 02/18/91 CF5 ASTROROOF, ELECT SLIDIN 695.00 590.75 SHIPPED 02/18/91 C49 DEFOGGER - ELECTRIC REAR 170.00 144.50 INT COMM 03/01/91 FW9 FINAL DRIVE - 3.43 RATIO PRICE EFF 01/28/91 LQ1 ENG LQ1 3.4L TWIN DUAL * OIL COOLER 1070.00 909.50 UV6 HEAD - UP - DISPLAY 295.00 250.75 OPTION 1 FINANCE U1C RADIO, AM/FM ST, CD, CLOC 369.00 313.65 V56 LUGGAGE CARRIER, DECK L 115.00 97.75 SC A 1SC OPTION PACKAGE 1SC 705.00 599.25 DEALER 21 - 095 - 52 *WINDOWS - POWER W/AUTO - DOWN, DR *APPEARANCE & MOLDING PACKAGE *SEAT ADJ - 6 WAY POWER, DRIVER *ANTENNA - POWER REAR QUARTER HP: 200 SW: 3390 TOTAL MODEL & OPTION 23114.00 19902.94**ACCT 231 19945.52 DESTINATION CHARGE 505.00 505.00**H/B 261 693.42 GM MARKETING ADJUSTMENT 231.00** **ADV 65A TOTAL 23619.00 20638.94**PAY 310 20638.94 THIS INVOICE MAY NOT REFLECT THE DEALER'S ULTIMATE VEHICLE COST, IN VIEW OF FUTURE MANUFACTURER REBATES, ALLOWANCES, INCENTIVES, ETC. THIS MOTOR VEHICLE IS SUBJECT TO A SECURITY INTEREST HELD BY GMAC. MIKE BAILEY MOTORS, INC. VIN 1G3WR14X0MD352491 INDUSTRIAL & HWY 75 $20638.94 INV 3A00254187 HENRYETTA OK 74437 DUE 03/01/91 DLR 21 - 095 - 52

That would be ideal but realistically it will all happen on fb and we here in the actual community will have little to say. I checked there a couple days ago and no mention of my alternate city. I've tried to coerce it further this way to shave some driving off to make it more accessible to members from the south. Facebook didn't revolutionize social networking, it killed it.

'Sup, man! It has been a while. I feel I need to post up a reintroduction!!

I was abrupt in my earlier post, apologies to Al and thank you for getting this moving so early so we can have a great 2019 meet, I've actually been cooking something for the past couple of months to pitch for the summer meet but you caught me off balance as I wanted to have a motel and rates and all before I posted. --------------------------------------------------------------------- I've been thinking about this for a while and would like to propose that this year's Summer meet happen in Erie, PA. I started talking to people locally a while back and believe I can put together a good deal of activities, here's the proposed/optional itinerary that has resulted: Friday: Roll into a small motel (actually looking at a few already that would be privately owned and off the beaten path so we don't have any problems with noise levels and have more bargaining power as a group to secure good room rates. Two have pools ... again I'll scout ahead and get pictures, ect.. beforehand.) Friday night: Vote on dinner based on what's nearby and go eat, followed by the customary standing around in the parking lot drinking. Saturday Morning: Plan "A": SCCA Autocross event at Lake Erie Speedway, spectate,drive your car, ride along with someone else... or sleep in and skip it if you'd prefer not to go. I've spoken to the SCCA about the possibility of us coming in preparation of this pitch already and we are welcome. Plan "B": Stand around the parking lot and drink. Saturday Afternoon /Noonish: Plan "A": Our usual picnic hamburger/hotdog style lunch at Presque Isle State Park - Perry Monument (this shows up on GPS, which I value as a quality so we don't have to crazy convoy unless we want to for fun) By the time we get there my Son will already have several kayaks and life vests waiting for those who wish to toss one in the water (we have 2 singles and 3 tandems, and enough life jackets which are mandatory to clothe a small army) There are grills down there so cooking is not a problem. Presque Isle has beaches, lagoons, (which are accessible a few feet from where I'd like to do this) and showers so if one were to have a kayak mishap there is a place to clean up and shower ten minutes from this location. Plan "B": Stand around the parking lot and drink. Saturday Dinner: Vote on style of food, Erie has everything, authentic Mexican and Thai, pizza joints and Italian, and literally everything in between. My little family is an insanely busy one so sadly enough I know every restaurant in town well - from the fine dining "underground" to which pubs have the best burgers and subs. Plan "B": Stand around the parking lot and drink .... but with Pizza or a grill or something. Saturday night: Plan "A": I'm a member at a local chess club, there are chess boards there but I've never played chess there. "Clubs" can stay open until 3AM in PA and my club, "The King's Rook" has two levels. Downstairs is a bar, a soft couchy area, seating at both tables and booths, and a tiered and sunken rave-like room with a large stage and a bazillion whirling lights in front of a dance floor and flanked by railing with elevated (or rather not sunken) walkways, one of which has another small bar. Upstairs is another bar, another couchy soft area, more tables, another stage, a counter with very simple food like Hot Dogs, 6 pool tables, a dart board, shuffleboard table and a door leading out onto a deck where a tiki bar is. There is a short school bus which has been converted with booth style seating that's upstairs and provides minutes of entertainment as well. Saturday in June means a band- a GOOD band will be playing downstairs and a reasonably good band will likely be upstairs. Drinks range from reasonable to cheap, but there will be a cover for entry. I've spoken to management and made some loose plans, non-members are not allowed to buy drinks so we would be arranged as a "party" which means you would simply declare yourself as a W-Body.com member and get a hand stamp to buy drinks with member status for the night. The dart board takes quarters like every dart board in every bar in every city, but pool, shuffleboard, and various board games (including chess... go figure) are free to play all night. Plan "B": Stand around the parking lot and drink. Sunday Morning: Breakfast at wherever - or - Lowville drag strip before departing for our respective homes. ------------------------------------------------------------------- The Good: Plenty to do, and a bit more centrally located for members that can't drive all the way to Toledo The Bad: If we want to Autocross we're limited to one weekend in June, or one weekend in July as the SCCA only races once per month like this. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Rich, there are not one but two BXX Evans in the Erie area, no worries. If we do this I'll compile some information on paper and pass them out so everybody has proper names to GPS to stuff and a map to Presque Isle (again the lunch location does show on my Android GPS so a map would just be neat) Please let's not let the W-Body.com meet be planned expressly on Facebook.com even if we decide against Erie, that really sucked that it went down like that for 2018.

Facebook should be a link to here, decisions should not be made there like last time. Facebook is Facebook, W-Body.com is W-Body.com.

Ok, this is without any warranty my abs tool written in C#. This is an alpha version 1.0, it's from yesterday, so please be aware that there might be a big bug in there regarding the alignment of the data-stream. If have not yet had the time to check, whether the computation makes sense. Tweak the "Test.CommandLine.exe.config" to fit your needs. To go online: Playback: false PortNumber: 1 Have fun, Martin Aldl.zip Edit: Attention, the stream payload is off by one byte. Should start at index 3. Currently 4.

Maybe handle discussion and planning here, and post updates with a link back here on FB?

There's a nice tool, but it's not something that happens a lot so I just have the little $8 cube thing from a chain parts store. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal-Caliper-Compression-12-Piece/dp/B00GAC768Q/ref=asc_df_B00GAC768Q/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312049103272&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15590373981201466894&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=21176&hvtargid=pla-569095540313&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62837065100&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312049103272&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15590373981201466894&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=21176&hvtargid=pla-569095540313

I enjoy learning for you and others on this forum! There is a lot to learn but I'm usually pretty good about retaining automotive stuff. I'm not afraid to admit when I don't know something or asking for help, that's for sure. I haven't really look at the VIN on the 87 GMC, I should. I've learned a lot about the old squarebody's from tearing mine down and putting it back together again. The biggest surprise is thinking the speedometer cable from the 87 GMC would work using the 91 Burb cluster. Nope, the Burb has a VSS and that threw me way off! That's probably the biggest thing I've had to deal with on it. Another thing, the 87 2WD parts truck doesn't have the shock cut out on the inner fenders to clear the 4WD shock mount on the frame. I had to notch it out to clear that area.

Usually they can be warmed up in an oven at a low temperature and pulled apart but I've yet to do it. There's numerous threads on the internet about it. DigitalOutsider is big on retrofit headlights so he's probably familiar with separating lights.

do you need a 88-90? i have one

I honestly think it just pushes in. Maybe try to pry it up gently with a wide straight slot screwdriver? Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

1995 in Bright Aqua Metallic.

I'll add one more I'll submit one more tonite before I go to to bed Imp.

I would love to get those seats for my 93 vert. i only saw those aq9 seats once and they were in a sedan .

Project cars are never as clean as we want them to be, and that's good because once they are the fun is over.

Until we get 3-4 brake pedals and grow feet to match, I'll keep my abs. I've seen one too many accidents happen at speed around here because of lack of abs. If you lose your rear traction and you still need to stop, there is simply no replacement to having individually controlled tires, or at least axles. With that said, PM3 is well known to be tempermental. Someone recently referenced an article about going hydroboost as an alternative.

Submissions sent.

This car has been through hell and umm... hell. heres one like circa 2007 or something. was my moms car since new September 15 1989.. the 88 got stolen this one was the replacement. which got broken in to in the lot before delivery. I was born on the 18 that month and year.. this car took me home. I went from the back seat to the front seat to the driver seat. was the first car I ever turbod and manual swapped. at one point in time its new home was almost at the junk yard but I got talked out of it.. had money issues and was just frustrated. college lyfe... on the eve of xmas 2010 that was the last time my mother was in this car. the oil line broke getting on to the Wantagh parkway leaving the 2 of us stranded. after fixing the oil line the engine had a knock. it was done. it sat after that. in 2012 my mother passed away. she never got a chance to ride in the car again. so I make it a point to keep it the rest of my life. Its sentimental. .... in I believe it was 2014 got it running again made for some decent footage and while racing a mustang 5.0 and a Ferrari.. not sure of what model. cylinder #5 valve broke locking the engine up. its sat ever since that day.. finally dug it out. and that is why I decided to post the picture. here. its only fair that I submit a picture in its worst shape to show that even when its lacking its former glory it is still a piece of w-body.com history. -Jarek

Update: I took it into a shop a while back and had it checked out. It turns out I had a couple of bent valves that would occasionally stick and bang up against the piston. They ended up sending my heads to a machine shop and overhauling them. It was a bigger job than I would have been comfortable doing myself so I'm glad I took it in. She runs like a dream again and I'm hoping to get at least another 150k out of her!

I saw that too, and was thinking about getting it for the right side of my trunk lid. I have enough other things to buy for this car so I passed on it. I thought it might balance out the look of the rear, since it already has a badge on the left side.

The best wire harness use is from a 98-99 Monte Carlo or Lumina with a N/A 3800. If you get one of those it should only require swapping a few wires in the large C100 connector on the firewall, it's not worth paying someone to do it for you. Other wire harnesses will work but require a lot more modification. The ideal engine/trans donor car for you will be a 98-04 Regal GS or 98-03 Grand Prix GTP. These are the only two that will have all of the brackets and mounts you need. Tons of other cars have L67s but will not be a direct bolt in without first swapping parts from a w-body 3800. There are a number of threads on the swap on other forums, they are not specific to the Cutlass but all of the same stuff still applies.

Awesome so where can i get a wire harness i need for the swap and also is there someone who can make them where they are ready to go meaning all will hook up to the firewall connector? What car should tge moyor and trans come from and is a direct bolt in?

I acknowledge that this is an old thread, but the title is perfect for future searches...and it's how "I" found it. Thought I'd show you how I installed the aftermarket nylon pads. Took two hours to stare into space "inventing" the tool, actually fabricating the tool, and driving to the hardware store for fully-threaded bolts. Took about ten minutes per side to actually install the plastic pads once I had the vehicle ('93 Lumina) lifted up with the wheels hanging free. The first set of nylon pads I looked at were absolutely destroyed when we opened the package at the local NAPA. Someone had tried to install them, brutalized them beyond belief and then PUT THEM BACK IN THE BOX AND RETURNED THEM TO THE STORE. If you're a Total Moron and live in the Seasonally Frozen Wastelands, you're probably my down-the-street neighbor. Good thing my local NAPA had two sets in stock. I left with the second set. Spring compressor tool requires: 24" of channel steel, cut 10" (two pieces) and the remainder is 4". Ten inches is a bit longer than absolutely needed; but the extra length doesn't interfere--and maybe makes this tool useful on some other vehicle. Four 1/2-13 nuts. All nuts are welded to channel steel, but the nut on the smallest piece has the threads removed by running the 1/2" drill bit through it before welding it to the channel--it just pops over the end of the bolt but does not thread onto it. That nut just prevents the small piece from sliding out of position. Two 1/2-13 X 6" bolts One 1/2-13 X 3" bolt The short bolt pictured can be cut down, it is inconveniently long. One ~1/8 drill bit to make pilot holes for the 1/2 drill bit One 1/2" drill bit to make 5 holes and remove the threads from one nut 3/8" or 1/4" drill motor for pilot bit 1/2" drill motor for 1/2 drill bit Weld nuts to channel as shown. With all threaded nuts on top of the channel, the welds are not critical--just keeps 'em from turning; or from getting lost when the tool is rattling around in the tool box. The heat of welding slightly distorted the nuts, I ran a 1/2-13 tap through the three nuts with threads. Spring compressor painted and pretty. [EDIT--note that I have changed the bolts, the end ones are not threaded all the way] Compressor installed on right side. Center screw jacks up spring. Have to be careful to NOT jack spring up so high that it jams the end of the spring against the bottom of the strut housing. I can imagine spring damage if it's forced up too high. I cleaned out all the gravel and loose rust; and knocked loose rubber from the original spring pad off of the spring. New spring pad taps in pretty easily. Does not quite push in by hand. See how the lips on the bottom of the pad hug the hub carrier? The compressor in place after the pad is installed. I painted a thin film of grease on the spring and pad contact surfaces, but I don't think that's critical--and may just be a trap for road grit. Nothing left to do on this side but to unscrew three bolts and remove tool. Markings on the aftermarket pad. No, it's not made BY Moog, but it may come packaged in a Moog or NAPA or Advance Auto or CarQuest box. Smooth side goes against spring, ribbed side goes down. The original equipment rubber pad--slightly worn. And the OEM rubber pad as you might find it on your vehicle--partially separated from the spring. I used the hammer and a long pry-bar as a chisel to remove the pad. Use caution, you do NOT want to gouge the spring in the process of separating it from the rubber pad.