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Everything posted by GnatGoSplat

  1. Maybe you need to desolder the display and resolder the controller chips underneath.
  2. Definitely looks bad in those spots. Must have been the body shop didn't know or care where they're supposed to go. I don't think it was a deliberate effort by the owners because there are no other signs of customization on either of those cars.
  3. I don't think BBB complaints amount to anything. It did last a few years, but the Gentex mirrors pretty much last a lifetime.
  4. Donnelly auto-dimming mirrors suck. I paid almost $200 for an auto-dimming, lighted, compass mirror in the late 90s and the fluid eventually leaked out of it, making it completely unusable.
  5. Glad that fixed it. Symptoms make perfect sense for a bad battery if you think about it. Low voltage makes electronics go nuts. Rotten egg smell indicates heating very near the battery (or in it), causing the sulfuric acid to evaporate and produce that smell (hydrogen sulfide?). Since wiggling the battery cable could make it work, I'd guess the battery terminal was cracked internally.
  6. So you did pop the bolts themselves out and cleaned them? Mine were gunky between the bottom of flange and where it contacts the terminal. Now when I have battery troubles, I always pop the bolts out and make sure the bottom of the flange is clean and bright as well as where it contacts the terminal. I also add a little dielectric grease to prevent corrosion.
  7. Have the battery checked. Also remove the battery bolts and clean them thoroughly, especially the bottom side of them where it touches the inside of the battery terminal. Also clean the battery terminals thoroughly on the inside and out. I usually use a Dremel-like rotary tool with wire brush attachment. Negative terminal getting hot sounds like bad contact.
  8. You mean the interior-colored sill pieces that cover the weatherstripping and carpet, or the black piece that covers the metal door sill?
  9. I buy Walmart batteries because they are cheap. WAY cheaper. I haven't found them to be the longest lasting batteries, usually 3-yrs, but I usually put them in W-bodies which may have something to do with it - sometimes the W-bodies would break and it'd take me a couple weeks to get all the parts to fix them and occasionally the battery would die from non-use which is really bad for them.
  10. No issues at all. Can't even tell the airflow is reduced. Objectively, it has to be reduced, seems impossible for it not to be, but I can't tell that it is. Defog/defrost seem to work just as well as before. Which unit are you looking at?
  11. I agree with the aux springs softening the ride theory. I think they were a way to get progressive spring rates out of the fiberglass spring. Removing them increased ride height on my 89 and also made the ride harsher, so it seemed to me that they counter-acted some of the force exerted by the fiberglass spring.
  12. If there's enough gas charge, struts can affect the height to some degree. The KYBs I put on mine had about 30-lbs of pressure each (going from memory on that) which seemed to raise unloaded height about a 1/4" to 1/2" compared to the old bad ones.
  13. Double-DIN is one of my favorite mods. Gonna have to do it if I ever get another 1.5-DIN GM. Tempted to swap an Android HU into the Cutlass. Which ones were you looking at? A company called Pumpkin seems to make a lot of them, but don't know if they're any good. No recent reviews on the Marshmallow models. They all seem to be full depth, though. I don't know why they couldn't make them a lot shallower since optical drives are pretty much obsolete.
  14. I think in 10-15 years, these cars will be about as sought after as an AMC Matador, Dodge Diplomat, or Ford Granada. Well, maybe not, those were at least RWD...
  15. Looks like 2 companies sell "aircraft remover", Klean-Strip and Rust-Oleum. Is one better than the other?
  16. What's a good chemical paint stripper that works on factory paint?
  17. Damn, would have been much easier to get rid of to someone who can pick it up because I don't have a box for it yet. Hard to find ginormous boxes. Anyway, I'm not in a hurry to be rid of it if he makes that commute regularly. Since there's some interest, I'll post a more detailed list of the microfiche I have tonight if I can remember and take some pics.
  18. Anyone have any interest in a Microfiche Reader with 94 Cutlass Factory Service Manual on microfiche, as well as many years of vintage W-body parts catalogs on microfiche? Also have E-K body FSM, Silverado parts catalog, etc. Yours for cost of shipping. I'm going to guess the reader itself would cost anywhere from $40-75 to ship via Fedex depending on how far away you are from Missouri.
  19. I think so, but you'd have to get creative with the door trim panel as the 95s are contoured to accommodate the shape of the mounts.
  20. Wouldn't have any interest in 5.25" speaker mounts and graphite grilles, would you? I have a full set, brand new GM dealer parts. I think they are for 95, but would be an interesting retrofit.
  21. I've got an '88 Int'l that's free of any structural rust that would love to live on with a new engine if anyone is interested. Really, really don't want it to end up parted out...
  22. 1991 Oldsmobile Factory Service Manual, 2-volume book set $5+Media Mail shipping ADS Super Chip, originally a performance chip for 92 Chevy 454 TBI, but it is a MEMCAL adapter comparable to Moates G1 with UV EPROM that can be erased and reprogrammed with your own code. You plug your existing MEMCAL into this, and then plug this into the ECM. It'll use the ESC from the MEMCAL, but the calibration from your EPROM. Perfect for burning your own custom chips. The EPROM is socketed so you can also replace it with a flash EPROM. $20+shipping each. I have 2 of these, they are brand new old stock. I accept PayPal or postal MO. PM or reply for shipping quote.
  23. Turns out I had already uploaded the pics to my Photobucket, but here they are: PCB without HUD (digits working) PCB with HUD (digits not working). Notice the missing traces on IC2-6 and IC2-7. Modification to enable the digits on HUD cluster.
  24. Redline on the Cutlass UB3 is real simple. It comes from the ALDL so it'll always be correct. The digital readout on a HUD cluster isn't very easy to enable. I had to solder a ton of tiny wires because there are no traces connected to the digits. The electronics are there, but wire traces absent from PCB. Can post pics when I get home.
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