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So, the altenator harness does have the four wires going into it, there is a weird 5th wire that just looks broken and is dark blue. That 5th wire does not seem to go to anythiong, I wish I had noticed it before I got the engine in, tracing it back is going to be a huge pain in the drain with the engine installed. Also, I have this cluster of 20ish guage wires that look like they are supposed to be grounded on the transmission. There are also two other wires on the harness that are 6 or 8 guage in the same area with bolt anchors that could be power or ground, hard telling really. I know t

It took two days two pull the subframe with 6 jacks, cribbing, pry bars, chains and a pickup truck lol, I had the engine back in with the trans attached, all motor mounts removed and there is about 1/4" of clearance between the brake booster on the driver side and the fuse box on the left, dropping it back in only took about 3 hours with a second set of hands. I also should mention, I pulled the subframe engine, trans in one piece out the bottom without help. I also did all this without ever removing the axles from the hubs lmao. The engine hoist also made reinstallation of the subframe a bree

Being in my garage I used my 30" breaker to get started, then the impact gun (with some pb blaster).

And did it need heat or just a big ass breaker bar?

Can you put up a pic of the front of your car? Very much like to see the front clip. I remember when the ground effects kits were still for sale. Didn’t fit my b4u trim bit I always liked em. Nice to see one on here, that kit alone makes it worth to fix up the car.

Your alternator charge wire is car audio cabling which is completely fine and ideal as it looks like 4gauge. So you know a previous owner was in that harness at some point. I don’t think it’s the knock sensor wire which is dark blue for my 91 at least. I doubt it’s that as I’m pretty sure it goes to the back of the engine in its own harness and is routed under the engine on top of the subframe. The alternator harness on the cs130d is a 4 wire harness. Do you have 4 wires going into the harness? I only see 3 in the pic but can’t tell for sure. My shop manual shows a red and 2 brown wir

Nicely done on the reinstall. You installed the engine/trans from the top side of the engine bay?? I’ve pulled an entire subframe/engine/trans out from the bottom and seems easier that way just wondering on your perspective for the top

I have the larger unit on my 91. Were the years the same between the transmissions? I would keep the smaller unit as that’s what came with it but that’s just me. The smaller unit might just be a smaller version and the same thing.

Today my fiance and my friend Chris helped me get the engine back in with the trans attached back through the top. I will never do a v6 without a hoist again lol, this was no subaru. Hopefully tomorrow I will have it driveable, I want to make a video of the startup and post it to youtube. Honestly, if I had to do it agin, I would video document everything, there really is no content on youtube about the technical mumbo jumbo for the LQ1. I cant wait to feel its power, my mother did not know this car was fast, she never matted the pedal. I will be looking for a white top, the framework for it,

Here are some pictures of progress, last weekend I cleaned everything and inspected it for any issues.

I also found a broken wire that doesn't seem to attach to anything on the engine harness leading to the back of the passenger side of the engine on the altenator part of the harness. It is blue, any ideas?

I have some updates, not sure why I am having issues with uploading pictures. I bought an engine hoist, everything is almost back together. I need help with a few things. Not too sure what the part is, it looks like some sort of plunger that is attached to a vacuum line, vacuum modulator? The one that came on my used transmission was alot smaller, I installed the big one and it fit fine. Does it make a difference which is installed?

No I haven't. I seriously thought about it when pulling the tank on the International for the fuel pump change out. That's not a fun job. But, it would probably be a lot of unnecessary extra work.

Yeahhh.........

Ya that’s it. Nothing to buy anywhere that I looked except OEM cats. No big deal if I can get one and sandblast it and paint etc that’s all I’m after. Have you ever taken yours off?

I couldn't find anything with that part #. Are you sure it's correct? I'm seeing 10062854 being the crossmember.

No salt rot on my car, just want to restore/replace it so it looks brand new again. 1 part of my never ending resto. Everything else other than the four bolts is easy. I’ve rounded a few heads on JY cars and never got a single turn but wasn’t really prepared either. Just wondering if anyone has gotten em off without heat. My breaker isn’t big enough so will need a longer bar for sure. Don’t want any hernias. If I could just sneak in a torch…

I take it you're referring to to the rear crossmember.... It comes out the easiest after everything else has been removed 1st..... drop the struts upper mounts, disconnect the outer lateral links, disconnect the rear end of the trailing arms, loosen off the knuckle to strut bolts, slide the knuckle/struts off the spring ends & the anti-roll bar ends, now there's no leaf spring tension...... the 4 bolts that hold the member to the chassis are torqued to 85 ft.lbs but with an old salvage yard car you may need a looong breaker bar to free them up, from my point of view if the b

I’ve been looking to replace my suspension crossmember for awhile now. Part 10262854. Wanting to get a rust free donor from the JY so I can sand blast it and restore it. Will do tubular Gen2 lateral arms at that time as well. Does anybody have any comments on removing the crossmemebr? The book makes it seem so easy but I’ve put a breaker on JY units here and there and the bolts on the cars I’ve tried are frozen solid. Will they only come out with heat? I can’t bring a torch to the JY so just wondering if I can get them free with regular grunt power and PB soak.

Chaim vobiscum. . .

You've been going to the wrong shops.........the toe is adjustable as is the camber angle there is a setting for the proper camber angle, if one does not have in their possession a camber angle gauge then one goes to an alignment shop. As I said the desired is .5 negative

if I were joking........ a rabbi & a priest walk into a bar...............

You could actually be right. I have every single document to this car of all the work we had done to it over the years. I know the exact dates when repairs have been done. About 15 years ago, is when we started having the stalling out problem. That’s when the place disconnect the torque control solenoid and said it was fixed. But no it wasn’t fixed. It would stall out occasions when I would make a sharp turn out of a parking lot. But it would never keep stalling out on me like it’s doing now. As for the power steering switch, that was replaced in 2017 along with the steering rack. After

Last year and that didn’t fix the slippage problems I am having in drive. Plus it leaks too when it sits. So it’s probably leaking internal. The last time the transmission was first rebuilt was in 1998. The shop I took it too said it could be a piston inside not moving in and out. So likely it’s going to need a rebuilt because with it stalling every single couple of mins in drive it could be a problem. The transmission is putting a load on the engine and the engine can’t progress it.

Hi guys, just wanted to post you on the Jack assembly. I spent about $130 on two jacks. I got one from a 90 Regal GS and one rust free from an 88 Regal Limited. It wasn’t cheap but I wanted the exact ones. These cars are getting really hard find parts for so I had to buy two just to have.