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- Yesterday
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that's probably why! Not surprised. I've seen in the Fiero world of L67 swaps they run into the same issue with OEM axles vs aftermarket axles and mixing and matching to make the right length.
- Last week
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kyedzi joined the community -
You might be right. The GTP did have new axle assemblies in it when I got it. They don’t have 100 miles on them.
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Interesting! I think it's like that because I am pretty sure the GTP axle is an aftermarket. I bet if it was OEM it would work. I bet if you hit a JY and pulled a GTP pass side axle and if it looked like the lumina one it would work no issues. but if you can just click and buy one, that's easier!
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Here’s a pic of the two inner joints. These are the pass side inners, the Z34 4T60 inner is on the left, the GTP 4T65 HD is on the right. Although the 4T65 HD joint has a larger spline shaft, the Z34s inner has a larger od tulip.
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I’ll post pics later. The 93 Z34 inner joints are way bigger than the gtp axles. Kinda odd. But the Z34 4T60 did have a 3.69 final, could be why.
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Interesting because it worked for me. 92 GTP shaft and outer joint with the 03 GTP inner cup. figured the Z34 would be the same as a 92 GTP. But you are correct, the 98/99 lumina/monte carlo with 3.8 would work just fine. The Drivers side would plug right in, and the passenger side a quick change of the inner tulip to fit the HD diff.
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Actually no, not that simple. The first generation Lumina Z34 had a special axle. The inner CV joint is not retrofittable with the 4T65 style axles. I have to get a set of second generation Lumina axles for a 4T65 and then swap one of the inner joints. trust me, I already have this sorted out. I just haven’t bought the parts yet.
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Axles are simple. GTP inner tulips to plug into the trans with Z34 shafts and outer joint into the hub.
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Starter grinding against the flywheel? (1998 Olds Intrigue - 3800 V6)
Schurkey replied to LastIntrigue's topic in Powertrain
First Guess: Local starter shop is run by azzholes. Second Guess: Solenoid spring is weak, or shift fork is worn. Either one (or both) would allow the starter drive to not retract fully. You could test "the key switch or other electronics" by putting a voltmeter + probe on the starter motor "S" terminal, with the - probe on the battery negative terminal. When the key is in the "crank" position, you should have within about one volt of battery voltage at the "S" terminal--perhaps 9--10 volts. As soon as you release the key to the "Run" position, voltage at the "S" terminal should plummet to zero. If there's residual voltage at the "S" terminal, the solenoid could--maybe--continue to hold the starter drive in contact with the flywheel teeth. NO voltage at the "S" terminal in "Run", starter still touches flywheel? Defective starter. Very, very enormously-small chance you've got excessive thrust bearing wear on the crankshaft, so that the crank sometimes slides too far forward into the starter drive teeth. Hardly worth considering. -
I’ve actually been working on this a little bit lately. The engine has been completely overhauled and I just finished overhauling the transmission last week. While I had it apart I changed the final drive ratio from 2.93 to 3.69 and it also got a transgo shift correction kit. Additionally I changed the torque converter from a 1900 stall to a 2400 stall and I am also planning to put a pulley on the supercharger. I expect I will probably get the engine and transmission at least bolted into the car in the next couple of weeks. I still need to get my drive axles sorted out.
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I'm interested to see this project finished. Big fan of the Z34 and the swap to the L67 opens up all sorts of performance options. Great engine! Although I have to admit, the 310hp my 2018 3.6 makes blows me away when I think about how much I spent on my GP hunting for more go-go power. That Z34 with a 3.6/6spd would be a beast! (Yes, I'm taking foolish brain surgery!) LOL
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His title line doesn't exactly make you think he'll sing its praise...
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I think underbody lighting is illegal in VA, at least on a street car. Never really been something I was interested in. Actually the ROADHWK plate should soon be available again because I just switched to THDRBAT Here is the mirror decals I just added
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Starter grinding against the flywheel? (1998 Olds Intrigue - 3800 V6)
55trucker replied to LastIntrigue's topic in Powertrain
Is the starter motor shim in place? - Earlier
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Starter grinding against the flywheel? (1998 Olds Intrigue - 3800 V6)
LastIntrigue posted a topic in Powertrain
The starter went out on this car about 9 months ago. I had it rebuilt by a local shop. Ever since then, it starts up fine, but occasionally, the starter seems to be sticking out just enough to catch the edge of the flywheel after you let go of the key. This makes a constant scraping noise until you turn the car back off. If you start it right back up, it will usually be fine. It still cranks perfectly every time. This issue likes to happen when you let off the key right as the engine is starting. If you hold it in "start" for a second after the engine starts, it will be totally normal. I took it back to the starter shop. They reproduced the issue, but they said that their warranty is expired, and also that they think it's not an issue with the starter, but with the key switch or other electronics. Has anyone seen anything like this? Should I just replace the starter, start checking voltage at its terminals, or is it possibly not mounted correctly? Is it something else entirely? -
LastIntrigue joined the community
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Ha! you took my idea for the custom plate I thought about for an old Firebird im working on. Any thoughts on underglow?
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Cluedecking joined the community
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Just wondering what’s out there…does anyone know where I can find a really clean one?
VegasDude replied to 89-W-Body-Regal's topic in General
West Coast/ Southwest !! I'm in Vegas.. Deals do come up.. Got my '96 Regal Custom w/65k last year on FB Marketplace for $1000 !! Pristine 100% Rust Free Granny's car from So-Cal.. watched it for a month.. Originally listed at $3000, then 2500, 2000, finally.. 1500.. Couple moving to Chicago, needed it GONE. Offered 800, got for 1000 Needed new AC comp, radiator, tires, and brakes. PURRS like a kitten.. I won't move anywhere where cars rust away. Would drive me Insane.. -
Sealor1 joined the community
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eric1617 joined the community
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This is interesting because so far everything has made it seem like cam selection is a free for all if you're not bound to the confines of an auto transmission and it's inherent stall speed. Fortunately, my cam isn't very agressive, as it was implied to me that it was equivelant to a typical "Stage 1-2" cam offered by many vendors. I guess we'll see how much I hate it, lol. In an effort to mitigate the short gearing of the transmission, I plan on running a larger overall diameter wheel/ tire combo. I've been told this is a reasonable approach to the lack of traction and short gearing. I wasn't aware of the those output shaft seal/ bearing combos. I'll definitely be springing for those. Thanks for the heads up.
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Much appreciated. I don't know why the last time it seemed like it was impossible to slide it out far enough, but maybe I just didn't angle it correctly. I guess I'll find out soon enough how it goes. Thanks Bake
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I actually enjoy working on my LQ1's and look forward to it! I get what you guys are saying though.
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Agreed, no way was I going to do this job, I had the local mechanic take care of it. If you are going to own an LQ1, this just comes with the turf.
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Just bought an '08 GXP LS4 and have been getting familiar with it. It's a glorious engine, and it happened because I was thinking randomly what it would take to put an LS4 in my '92. My suggestions: Don't go crazy with the cam, you'll regret it with a 284. Cammed engines on manual transmissions are not merely challenging, they are next to impossible to tune for smooth drivability, and you'll feel every little quirk in the tune that'll make you forever try to fix it and hate the swap in the end. Nobody else will tell you this, but trust me I've learned the hard way on multiple cars. Stay as close to the factory tune and specification as you possibly can on a manual-trans swap. The engine already makes over 300HP stock, and you're putting it through the same wheels you use to steer. And now you're doing it through a trans that's short-geared for a high-revving V6. It's already more than enough. Get the output-shaft support bearings that replace the oil seals for the 284. It's Fitzall/TeckPak 75125LRB.
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Haven't had much of an opportunity to play with this unit yet, because my right-side hood louver is broken and I've had to park the car until I can replace it. Word to the wise, if you have hood-louvers, never let the hood slam shut.
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Love the Lumina Z cars...always wanted one. Always glad to see someone keeping one running. I've never done a timing belt...I typically paid to have it done at my local shop. Yes its more money but he does quality work and I have the car back way faster than I could do it alone. Not to mention how much I hate working on things in tight quarters. Hope you get it going again soon!
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Looks like a really beautiful car. These are also pretty rare.
