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- Yesterday
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Have had the GP for a few weeks now. Couple 300 mile road trips in it. I wasn’t really looking for a GP when I went car shopping but this red base model caught my eye and the price was fair. I’m really liking the car. Comfortable, rides good. 3.8 series 3 moves it really well. Getting it hook up under “aggressive “acceleration is a problem but I’m hoping new tires will help with that. Replaced crappy stereo with nice Kenwood. Pan drop reveled clean fluid and no crud in pan. Trans cooler definitely in my future. Jumping from GP to 95 vert is night and day. Vert is more like a slot car in handling. Firmer ride than GP but that’s to be expected. Next on list is brakes, front rotors warped, plugs wires, belts and hoses. Swap in fog light setup and wire up.Engine compartment needs good detail, that’s a labor of love. Hopefully it will stop raining long enough to get that done. Need to throw quick detail on vert and get it sold and throw that money at the GP.
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Jim Cronin joined the community
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You might want to verify the reputation of the company bending the tubes. AT LEAST one major tube-bending company has a horse-shit reputation for getting the bends correct. I don't pay attention to which company; 'cause I bend 'n' flare my own.
- Last week
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10k ohm worked. I just put it inside the end of the connector and taped it up. This is reference in the future for anyone else who is "being cheap" or cant find it in the manual.
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Pvan joined the community
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JimmyFloyd is exactly correct. Only certain Monsoon CD players out of 2000+ Firebirds have CD changer control capability. Most Pontiac cassette players with 7-band equalizers of the same era can control CD changers.
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I don't know what the spec is, exactly. I just know 10ohm is probably still ok... I'd keep an eye on it. When they go bad they'll usually drop to 1ohm or less and at that point they short the driver and no injector pulse to all of them.
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My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
jiggity76 replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
Yup, I know about the vacuum ball as well. Timing belt and vacuum lines are crucial for these motors. Pay attention to those and the LQ1 will be reliable and run for a long time! -
My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Jackson Gay replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
I had it done at a repair shop so I’m not sure how they did it. Later on I also had to do a vacuum ball(just a little plastic ball) that was cracked and resulted in poor running. When I took it to dealer they took the cover off for the timing belt and discovered the timing belt was eating itself due to some parts that held it on track breaking. I had been hearing a small squeak but didn’t think much of it. -
My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
jiggity76 replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
Did you just patch the vacuum lines? My cars need vacuum repairs as well and just wondering if you had any tricks to it. I want mine to be factory correct and also factory in appearance. Still figuring that out. -
My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
jiggity76 replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
Wow! I've always heard bad things about auto auctions. I've never experienced it myself but apparently they like to add on a ton of fees that really add up? Is this not the case in your experience? Very happy you saved this one then. I think a lot of those vehicles get scrapped if they don't sell. I've seen a lot of these beautiful cars meet their end and that really saddens me. I own a coupe version, a 91 International with the same motor. I love it immensely and look forward to your progress! I just seen one of these in my local yard, a triple white car and the same interior of course. It's the second triple white car I've seen getting scrapped. There is a lot of great info here and everyone here has been so nice and helpful...really, a great bunch of guys! -
So, in all reality, a fuel injector showing 10 ohms of resistance, is on its way out, but still flowing fuel within a spec the ECM can compensate for. Just running hot.
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My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Jackson Gay replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
I bought it at Copart auto auction. It needed some vacuum lines, brakes, and tires, and battery but it still ran and drove. It needed a lot of work but it was still a good deal. -
For example.....at 13v the amps flowing thru a 12 ohm resistor is approx 1.1 amp, the same 13v on a 10 ohm resistor is 1.3 amps, not much difference but how much is too much over what given length of time over what general heat environment before the windings suffer from heat? The fuel is supposed to keep the injector cool. as for bogging, the ECM should be able to cover off the fuel flow in closed loop & stay within the programmed tables, in a sequential environment each injector fires on it's own, not so in a multi-port batch firing environment.
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Good to see you’re still checking in [emoji106]
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My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
jiggity76 replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
How in the world did you get it for that cheap? -
My 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible
jiggity76 replied to Jackson Gay's topic in New Member Introductions
Just gorgeous! Welcome! -
Hi everyone, I’m happy to be in this group. Here are a few pictures of my car. We’ve painted it and had a new top installed but interior is original. Pretty good shape for 175 dollars running and driving.
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Thank you
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Thanks for the PN. Now to do some shopping. I guess with a higher current to the injector, theoretically it might stay open a fraction longer, causing a bit more fuel flow, resulting in it bogging down a bit (too much fuel) when the accelerator is pressed from idle? Am I thinking about that the right way?
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The Rochester injector for the '95 LQ1 is a 17090844, this is a 29lbs. high impedance multi tip injector. High impedance would be 12-16 ohms, low would be 1-5 ohms. When the impedance begins to fall away the injector actually begins to react quicker to electrical impulse. This will upset the fuel delivery with respect to all of the other injectors that are responding *normally*. The ECM is expecting to allow a certain amperage flow to each injector, the lower the impedance the higher the current to that injector which can cause excess heat to that injector winding (not necessarily a good thing).
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Jackson Gay joined the community
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Working on tracking down a hesitation on the '95 LQ1. Mainly when it is cold, but still has some hesitation during acceleration. Looking at the 3 fuel injectors under the cover (haven't checked the back 3 yet), 2 of the 3 are showing a low resistance of ~10.5 ohms. Third one is showing the accurate 12.2 ohms. Car was warm, but not hot. What does low resistance mean for a fuel injector? Been looking a bit online, and can't find a definitive answer. What happens with a fuel injector with low resistance, will it still work (hence, the car is running decent), just on its way out? Or just not working good at low RPM (hence the hesitation?) Have a set of 17lb injectors for my Fiero w/ a Camaro 3.4 pushrod (ACCEL 150617), but doubt I'm lucky enough they will work!
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On the original topic, IF we were to add more cars, it should be from the same timeframe and had a 60 degree V6, since our expertise is 60 degree V6 GM FWD cars. However, the A bodies have their own active community, the Grand Am and the Beretta do too and those who have the other same platform cars can be found on those forums. Really, the only car without a community anymore is the V6 Cavalier and that's because no one has them anymore. Finding parts for them is a chore. The forum for those still exists but Photobucket made sure to ruin forums for everybody. Yeah, we'll be okay. Maybe the Grand Am or the A body forum has more users but this community at least is tight knit.
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Hi folks. There's a red Cutlass Supreme convertible for sale off of the Interstate 57. Internet pictures can be "touched up" to present an unrealistic state of the car. I need someone to check this car out and verify its condition. Thanks guys.
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MaCox74 joined the community
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I know there is tons of experience on here. Looking for the easiest way to be able to see the engine data when running, for a '95 LQ1. I have an ALDL cable w/USB, and an old laptop to use. The "go to" for a while was TunerPro, which from everything I've read, is a great setup, but I've just not had any luck with it. I'm not looking to change any parameters either. I've tired TunerPro with my Syclone, as well as a my Fiero, and after spending about 5 hours with it today, it just isn't for me, so looking for another, easier, option. TunerPro RT will connect, just for the life of me, can't view any data. So, looking for another option! Just want to see real time data on what the Cutlass is doing, it has a hesitation, and a bit of a rough idle until it is warmed up. Thanks!
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95lq1vert's 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible progress thread
94 olds vert replied to 95LQ1VERT's topic in Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Looks good! -
So, did you get it?
