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ATTN CONVERTIBLE OWNERS, WE NEED YOUR HELP! - turning this over to jeremy
jonosso replied to ManicMechanic's topic in Cutlass Supreme Convertible
I just bought a 1995. Who is the official keeper of the VIN database now? I would like to provide my details. - Yesterday
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Oh yeah, that's a good point. Thanks Digital. Also, no part #'s are listed for seat belts in the parts book.
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I don't have a parts book for the Cutlass, but I would be shocked if they were different considering the verts effectively started their lives as coupes.
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I was wondering if the front door mounted seats belts are the same between the 90-94 CS verts and 88-94 CS coupes. Anyone know for sure? I know there is a difference between a coupe and sedan. Thank you!
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Thanks, they do look like whey have a low enough profile that they'd fit right in
- Last week
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I ripped that junk out, and replaced it with clear silicone caulk. I think it looked better. Also, it didn't leak.
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What I did on my 95 with the same issue was to slice it exactly at the corner seam. Then the vertical and horizontal pieces could be put back in their channels. Then I just filled in the corner (since the shrunken vertical and horizontal pieces don't quite touch anymore) with the black window seal adhesive stuff, which I also used to re-attach the two separated sections into their channels. It doesn't look great, but it looks a lot better than it did, and more importantly to me it doesn't leak after many years. It's quick, cheap, and easy, and if it doesn't look good enough you can still always have the whole thing replaced.
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I just got off the phone with the transmission shop and they are definitely rebuilding another transmission to go in the car. The core just came in today and they'll start rebuilding that one tomorrow. Should be ready next week. We'll see how it goes from here.
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1995 Cutlass 5-spoke alloy wheels I am considering buying a set of refurbished wheels for my car. So far when looking at two companies, I am identifying differences. I spoke with someone at All Factory Wheels. She said that their wheels are powder coated and the lip has a machined finish. I also spoke with someone at Wheels America, and he said their wheels are painted and the lip is not machined. When I look at the wheels on my car, they appear to have the machined lip (maybe because adhesive weights were not yet used and lip had to accommodate lead weights?). So... what was the original lip design and what type of finish was used? I am attaching pics from each company as well as the wheel currently on the car. Thanks.
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That's an interesting idea but I have neither the time, facilities nor expertise to tear the dead transmission apart. That said, I do plan to ask to see it, if they haven't already scrapped it. I'm hoping to hear from them today that they have it ready to go. Even though my technical knowledge of transmissions is next to nothing, I have to agree with the wisdom of starting over with a different donor transmission, given the history of mine, even though it is a bit of a crap shoot whether the new one will last any better than this one has. Hopefully, it will.
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When my TH700 died, it had run perfectly normal until I shut it off at a gas station. When I restarted, I had nothing but neutrals--no forward, no reverse, and no clue as to "why". Best I can tell, the filter plugged from all the debris of a failing 2--4 band, and planetary gears ground to dust. Needing a different core points to a catastrophic failure that damaged the case, or so much of the internals that the core cost less than all the needed "hard parts". Or they're just scared of your repeat failure, and they don't want to take a chance on some oddball problem that would take time, money, effort, and enthusiasm to find and correct. Tell them you want your broken transmission returned to you. You can take it apart at your leisure, see what the guts look like, and maybe even have some fun in the process--since there's no reason to get it returned to functional condition when you're done.
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Default Help-Both Key Fobs Stopped working properly-1998 Buick Century-Keyless Entry
digitaloutsider replied to jimtmcdaniels's topic in General
Welcome! The Regal and Century have the RKE box located behind the instrument panel (maybe directly adjacent, either way, you have to remove the gauge cluster). It has a flat copper lead for an antenna, if i recall correctly. It's possible the box itself got a bit fried when the new battery was put in. The range on my '01 Regal is less than stellar, and the 01+ system is better than the 98-00 one. Basically, that is to say, they kinda sucked in the first place. But if they truly did get worse, you might want to try just swapping the boxes out and reprogramming. Another 98-00 box should work. I don't recall where they are in the Grand Prixs, but it does interchange between them. 98-00 Regal, 98-00 Grand Prix, 98-00 Intrigue, 98-00 Silhouette, 98-00 Trans Sport/Montana, and 98-00 Venture all use the same box. -
I recently replaced the door speakers in my Grand Prix and used these, they sound a lot better than the stock ones. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158FB1330/Sony-XS-FB1330.html?tp=97
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jimtmcdaniels joined the community
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Default Help-Both Key Fobs Stopped working properly-1998 Buick Century-Keyless Entry
jimtmcdaniels posted a topic in General
Hi any suggestions?: 1998 Buick Century 3.1 105,000 miles. Factory keyless entry, anti theft chip in ignition key, no alarm system. Owned the car for a year now, came with one key fob. I bought a second new key fob on ebay, right after I got the car. It looks just the same as the other one and synched and both key fobs have been working just great with the vehicle. Now recently recently the car battery needed replacement, put a new battery in. Shortly after, both key fobs stopped working at all or intermittently and when working required very close proximity to the car. Replaced both key fob batteries and cleaned all contacts in key fobs with a damp rag and reassembled. No change. Re-synched both key fobs to car, using both the technique of holding unlock door button on driver's door while pressing unlock lock buttons on key fob one at a time till chirps are heard. Also then tried the place key in ignition three times and pressing both unlock lock key fob buttons till chirps heard. Chirps confirmed ok but key fobs still not working most of the time. It's like the pickup antenna on the car is broken or ....a corroded fuse or... Any ideas to try? thanks -
Yet Another Inoperable Rear Quarter Window Thread
mybluecutty replied to Olds Dad's topic in Cutlass Supreme Convertible
This irritating problem has come up again on my convertible. I’ve tapped it with a hammer for 2 hrs without any up movement... Has anyone every ground the rivets off and replaced the motor without taking the regulator off? -
Thanks Rich
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I agree. To my understanding, a "core" is a bad part that's been removed from the car and then usually sent off to be rebuilt or recycled. Once a part has been rebuilt, it's no longer considered a core but is then a re-manufactured part. It would seem like kind of a crap shoot to acquire another transmission to rebuild in place of mine unless, as you say, mine was too far gone to be rebuilt. This scenario has some plausibility since my transmission had already been rebuilt once. From a time and labor standpoint, I can see where replacing it with an already rebuilt one would seem to make a certain amount of sense. Less time and thus lower labor cost would at least somewhat offset the cost of rebuilding the unit in house and allow them to move more cars through the shop each week. I'll be interested to see what they have to say when I pick the car up in a day or two. Whatever broke on my transmission broke pretty much instantly and silently because the car was driving fine, shifting smoothly--and then it suddenly wasn't. There were no grinding noises or anything to make me suspect something was wrong when I came I came to a stop. But when I went to pull away from the stoplight, there was simply no power to the wheels, as though the car were in neutral.
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Not sure for certain but I would think a glass replacement company would have something very close to that, they'd need a sample though. Now the piece just above that in the pic with the screw in it, unobtainable, better order gummi phlege for that.
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That doesn't make sense to me, they're rebuilding YOUR transmission. Shouldn't need a core. If your current trans was so far gone then they would be ordering a replacement. Maybe they had a rebuilt unit at another location and are using it instead to get you fixed up quicker.
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Probably the 1995 as its has door mounted speakers in addition to the two in the back and two in the dash. My speakers in the 94 were blown along time ago and I never got around to upgrading. Not the best dude here to get sound system advice from TBH.
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Suspension Clunks - 1996 GP
55trucker replied to quakerj's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
With respect to just the shock, yes it is a cartridge, the strut assembly remains in the car, you do not remove it. The cartridge is removed from the top thru the opening under the shock tower retaining plate. There is a specific tool which is made use to do the job, it does make the process much easier. If one is going to do everything related to the front struts then the approach would be the same as any other sealed strut. After disassembling the spring one removes the cap that retains the cartridge inside the strut tube. The rear is a shock, it doesn't hold the car up. Don't be too quick to blame the rear shocks for noises back there, there is also an anti-roll bar back there as well, check the lateral links for rotted bushings, the trailing arms, also have a look at the springs contact points (4 of them), check the exhaust system for clunks as well. That anti roll bar bushing doesn't look very happy anymore. You'll find some of the regular aftermarket suppliers do make a urethane replacement. The rubber items are not really desirable. -
Suspension Clunks - 1996 GP
ron350 replied to quakerj's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
The part # for front strut bumpers are 10250330. They are still available on ebay for $20 a pop. Your upper strut mount should have a nylon insert on the bottom of the steel plate like in this picture. The GM part # for the mount was 19294067 but they are no longer available. Other brands also have the nylon insert but without a picture how can you tell. -
Suspension Clunks - 1996 GP
quakerj replied to quakerj's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
I bought all the parts so I think I'm going to do the whole thing on the front, I'm not sure the extent of the rust on the spring seat without taking it all apart anyways. Doesn't sound all that different than a regular FWD car other than the few extra steps of undoing the steering knuckle. I'll tackle all the sway bar bushings, do these simply bolt on/off, or is there anything else I need to be aware of? No tension on the sway bar with wheels in the air, correct? When I bought all my parts on Rockauto, they did not list a jounce bumper, nor can I find one. If you have a part number that would be most helpful! I bought the spring seats (with bearing), rubber mount up top, boot/bellows, strut cartridge, and that's it if memory serves. Why does the new top rubber mount come with six nuts (three small, three larger.)? I only see the three nuts that hold the plate on. On the rear my leaf spring pads/isolators look to be in good shape, but I will do sway bar bushings while I'm there. I replaced the trailing arms some time ago, the stock ones were starting to rust through. Other than compressing the leaf spring a bit, the rear struts are a simple bolt off, back on affair, right? Should be a few nuts (or bolts) in the trunk, and just the two large nuts holding it down low, is what it looks like to me. Many thanks for the help! If you don't mind shooting a few pics if you have time, that would help immensely. -
Aye, thanks, in your opinion, I note you have a 1995 and a 1994, which stereo system do you like better? IMHO I think the 1994 is better than my 1996 due to the upper speakers in the dash.
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Good price for a running/driving/stopping car, definitely isn’t too far gone. I keep a hydraulic in each car, screw factory jack points
