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I don’t have a fuel pressure checker, but I did punch my thumb where it would go on the rail and clean fuel came up. I’m not sure if the injector itself is clogged, can I check that without starting the car? Fuel pump supposedly new sender works. I’ve ordered a high flow replacement air filter since the air box is dirty and due for replacement. I also ordered a coil pack. The sparkplugs and wires are new but I’m not sure how to check it for spark. Again I’m new but just because it cranks doesn’t mean you have spark right? The crank sensor concerns me because I cannot find information on where and how to replace it, but it did have issues starting while hot previously. Is the radiator sludge possibly rust? I will post pictures as soon as I can get out there. Thank you bros I’ve been stalking the forums a bit for years, just never had a car to wrench lol

Start from the basics, Fuel, Spark, Air Do you have fuel at the rail? not always a positive that you have fuel if you have good pressure at the rail, but a good place to start. circle back to this spark? if not it could be an ignition control module or crank sensor Air, there's no basketballs in the intake are there? If fuel at rail and spark exist check the MAP sensor, is it plugged in, check the MAF sensor, same deal. Then check for injector pulse, if a fuel injector gets shorted internally it can drag the other 5 down with it. pull a injector plug and put a noid light or just a small lightbulb across the connectors and see if it pulses while cranking.

After replacing the starter in my newly purchased GTP, I went for some good fashioned cruising at moderate speed. Coming back home the car is acting completely normal but when I slow down to a roundabout a mile from home she just binged a warning sound and died, dash flashed battery and oil, I think non related. I’ve verified gas is getting to the injectors, but not whether they are clogged. The starter cranks, and all accessories have power. There is some sludge in my radiator cap that I hadn’t noticed before but I feel like If the water pump seized up I would have noticed overheating first unless the thermostat is also bonkers. Could be but the previous owner has a whole list of supposed new parts on this motor (it’s a swap 60k miles) and I had done something similar (reliably) with my 90 se so I believed him. Not sure where to go or what to replace because I am a new to stuff. Sorry for my rambling I’m not good at writing thoughts

I think the same, the fans do kick on but there’s sludge in my radiator that I never noticed. Guy tells me he used green, I saw green, hopefully it wasn’t dez cool before that

Sorry for the late reply, I would like to know a lot of stuff about this motor because I am a beginner, but currently my main problem is the fact that the car is no starting. The starter had started clicking, so I changed it out with a refurbished one, and it started up good and ran for about an hour and a Half before dying without warning. The car was slowing down when it happend. Oil light and battery light went on, I don’t think that means anything as the oil looked good, and the battery is new. I don’t have much tools but I was able to check that fuel is making it to the injectors, and the pump is kicking on, the sender works. There is gunk in the radiator and coolant reservoir I never noticed and I wonder if the water pump seized? But it was never overheating unless the thermostat was already bad but supposedly all these parts were put on new. I’ll probably make a thread, sorry for long reply

I got one of the fans on after running it around and getting to temp, the other I heard will only kick on if it’s really hot?

I am sorry for late reply’s to all of you, I could not access the site for some time. I do not know much about this particular car, but I do know it was originally Canadian, at least the previous owner said that. Right now she’s stranded in a parking lot, I changed the starter and was doing some testing (fucking off) and when I came back home the bastard died without warning, haven’t figured out why yet.

It's long and I haven't watched it all the way to the end yet. Probably nothing any W-body old-timer didn't already know, but still pretty cool to see a W-body review in 2021.

According to the above diagram, the pink wire in the factory harness to the "amplifier" provides the power. I am unsure which year service manual the diagram is from, however. (Your vehicle may not have the "amplifier switch" pictured in the diagram with the white wire in the harness.) The factory pink wire is the "remote turn on" wire (or commonly referred to as the "power antenna" wire), so the corresponding wire in the aftermarket harness should be the blue wire (or perhaps a blue wire with white tracer). Just out of curiosity, are you using the stock speakers, or do you have aftermarket replacements?

Okay, then I'm guessing the door speakers aren't getting anything because there's no power to the amp through my harness adapter. Any idea which wires power it?

Dave: the small *amp* & I use that word loosely....... is high impedance wired across the front speaker channels, what the front speakers get, the door speakers get as well. There is no volume control for it at all, I removed mine many many many years ago & installed a separate amp under the pass seat that is rca wired into my Alpine head unit & then to the doors speakers. Much better being able to independently control the volume to the doors myself.

There's some kind of box just below the dash and behind the head unit that might be what's powering them.

Wow, thats a lot bigger then I expected. I'm guessing your car has the weird small amplifier at the base of the console that powers the dash and door speakers I know that thing was a notorious pain in the rear in years past but no idea how it was dealt with.

I got it installed last week. Still haven't figured out how to get the door speakers to work, anyone have any suggestions? Also have the PAC-SWI steering wheel interface but have no idea how it's supposed to connect to this thing.

That is kinda neat, if its not total crap it might be cool. though for me it defeats the thing I like about the old cars, and I know i'm somewhat of a luddite so take that for what you will. I don't want a big screen or CarPlay in my old car. Not having that sort of thing is precisely why I enjoy it. Hell I don't want a stupid screen period I work on computers all day I don't want to constantly be surrounded.

Are You able to ship to Canada?

Well I needed something for right now, If I can make it through the winter and I dont like em I can always change em out when i put on new rotors. I bought ceramics for the front also, but im not in a hurry for those. but i added em to my cart and got em for like 8 bucks , and about the same price for the rears .

My experience with ceramic pads was on the front of a K1500 pickup; and it was...20-ish years ago. I suppose (and hope) that ceramic pads are better now. I HATED those pads. Poor stopping, needed extra pedal effort--but they wore forever. Which is kinda too bad. I put up with those pads way longer than I should have. The last few sets of pads I've bought have been Performance Friction brand, "carbon metallic" composition. Made in USA, in one of the Carolinas.

You can put the ECM into diagnostic mode which will trigger the secondary fan to come on. Will be an easy test of the circuit. I imagine you checked the fuses in the under hood electrical centre? Next would be the relays for both fans. If the secondary fan comes on when you jumper the OBD connector you can swap the relays and see if the primary fan is bad. Need a test light, voltmeter and basic trouble shooting skills there.

Rotated the tires the other day and while I had it up in the air did a brake inspection and seen the drivers rear was getting really close, so i went to RA and bought the cheapest ceramic pads they had. changed them out today, Just in time .

The passenger fan is set to kick on around 230F which. I think is too hot. The driver side fan should kick on around 210F. Check wiring to the fans, any fuses and relays. Possibly it could be time for a new thermostat, new coolant, and maybe new fans if the electricals check out good. When I had a 3.4l it ran pretty consistently around 210F which is normal operating temps for these cars.

Pretty sure they're '04 & up GP wheels. Welcome to the boards, 94GTP90SE. I see you've got the TGP/'91-'93 hood with the bigger vents.

Hi there, what would you like to know about the DOHC engine? Are those mid 2000's Impala wheels on that car?

Hey what’s up guys. I’m new to forums for cars; but I’ve been wanting to talk to other W body owners so I can figure out the issues with my cars. I previously owned a 1990 GP SE coupe with a decently rare option set, but I had to sell. I now just purchased a 94 GTP and I’m unfamiliar with the motor and some of its issues. ( Fans won’t kick on/ car won’t restart once heated up/ dies in reverse sometimes when power steering strains/low rpm flutter) I hope you all like the car anyway!

I can't speak to any differences in the block. You may run into mounting issues, but i'm just guessing. You'd likely need to swap over the entire top end of the engine for it to bolt up properly.