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Si. https://www.copart.com/lot/53837963/clean-title-1989-pontiac-grand-prix-se-nj-trenton

Still up for auction?

Minty 1989 TGP in a NJ auction.

Ok I did some testing and here is what I know. KOEO V is about 13.8 Jumping both cooling fan relays turned both fans on after confirming power to each relay cavity. Also I can see the request for A/C ON is given on the scan tool which should have the fans running as well. Based off what I`m reading from the manual the pcm should ground circuit 335(473) to activate Fan 1(2) when A/C command is ON but that doesnt seem to be happening. A test light connected to battery - will activate the fan when probing either relay circuit and work both relays as well. So fan motors work, the relays click as they should, the wiring associated between relays and fans seem to be ok aside from the circuit between the pcm and relay not grounding. Visibly the harness is ok, still wrapped up in the factory tape all the way from the fuse box. Schematic for reference I`m a bit stuck now in which direction to go and what to look at.

My 89 Grand Prix was not in use for many years, the radio degraded in that time. It started to give a lot of pops and bangs. So much it seems to have blown a front speaker in the few moments it has been turned on. The speaker is an easy fix, just remove the dash pad and screw a new one in (16054362 is replaced by 15173233 and can be easily found). My system is a 4 speaker with Remote control head 16075882, the optional Cassette+equalizer 16050912 and steering wheel controls. The amp and receiver (16072780) which is located above the glovebox is the one that typically causes issues. I found the documentation here on the forum, unfortunatley the link for the amp doesn't work anymore: But even better than documentation, I found a common cause and fix for the pops and bangs: I tried exactly this procedure: https://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article?id=198:radio-capacitor-replacement-instructions. The 6 green capacitors were indeed shot. I found d4x5mm (not d5x5mm), 1uF, 50V, 105°C replacement capacitors at RS and had a specialist to put them in. The radio now works well, only some very minor pops are still noticable when the volume is turned to 0. I am very happy with the result and recommend this fix. However, I did notice now that my FM tuner apparently only goes up to 104.05MHz... Scanning, or manual tuning to get past 104 make it jump to the bottom of the frequency band again. I wonder if anyone else had a similar issue or fix for this?

Out of curiosity did you end up finding some that worked with your car? Those Amanita posted are discontinued.

My 1995 Cutlass has a factory CD player. Record company CDs play fine. If I want to play my own burned CDs, I have to burn them at the slowest speed or they will not play. Lately I use a Bluetooth FM transmitter and just play content from my phone.

This, If you have all the patience in the world i'd start by hitting the service manual to figure out what all is different, but you'd likely need to start with and entire dashboard harness and just change nearly everything over. Its possible, but at what cost? I say this as a person who has been adverse to the pain in the past.

Awesome that you found a CD player! They're getting very hard to find. It took me 3 years or so to find mine. My International was born with one and the original owner threw it out when it died and put in a crappy aftermarket one. It's in my thread.

Thanks for the quick reply. At least I can get the cd player.

Taylor (3100MPFI) doesn't do Ws any more as far as I know. He is still around though. He did it to his car but it was a massive undertaking. The dash had to come out, pretty much the entire HVAC system was replaced and the wiring harness had to be added. It would take an entire book to explain how it's done. If you're a masochist, I'd say get an entire parts car, the service manuals and parts and illustration manuals, a few months of trial and error and have at it. As far as the CD player goes, plug and play.

Hey fellas. I'm wanting to swap my casette player and default climate control in my 94 cutlass to the cd player and electronic climate control. I got a bead on the two at a junkyard, and was wanting to know how to approach this before acquiring them. I am fairly confident in changing the cd player, as a radio is a radio, but as far as the ECC, is it doable? Are the wires going to be the same, or will modification be needed. I tried searching around but all threads said to ask someone named 3100mpfi, who evidently no longer exists. Thank you all.

Glad to see you got the flange issue solved! I also remember them being real close to the 282 shifter in my car. Glad it fits!!

The analog tachometer of my 89 Grand Prix SE works, but indicates about 3 times the value it should. The cluster is 25122113. The 3 small gauges seem to be working fine, the speedometer is digital and just fine. I hear the analog gages are a common problem as on TGPs. I also read it is usually caused by a faulty resistor. The tacho does not have a calibration resistor on the Air Core motor itself, but there is one on the circuit board. I live in Europe, so getting a refurbished instrument panel is quite difficult/expensive for a gauge that is strictly speaking not necessary, so I am looking for a cheap and easy fix. I am not 100% sure yet, but the culprit is most likely to be a calibrated 14 pin ceramic DIP resistor (the white and black on the picture). Since it is not a speedo, calibration is not the most important to me, so if I could get a replacement with about the right values it would be probably a good enough fix. Anyone here has the specs of the resistor? I have found a replacement for a similar resistor, one for Corvettes: https://batee.com/collections/1990-1996-corvette-parts/products/90-96-analog-calibration-ic-adjustable-preset-for-6k-tach So if there would be a source for the version used in the Pontiac GP, please post it here!

For the long axle, what you want is the inner bar shaft to be 32" long. For the Cherokee shaft, one end needs a c-clip slot cut in on one end, otherwise the splines are good to go, the other end however, has to be cut down maybe a half inch and also the splines are too thick, need to be re-splined to fit the inner spline of the joint. Basically, if you were to disassemble a passenger side CV shaft from a 4T65E car like a GP GT (4T65E-HD axles are different), replace the inner axle shaft with the longer re-splined one and reassemble. Once I have it done(correctly), I'll post up some pictures and measurements. As for progress, I finished the wiring, installed the trans with a new HTOB and .20" spacer, dropped the engine back in and got them bolted together. Kind of on the final stretch. Wiring - I haven't verified the following yet but will update when I know for sure this is 100% correct. - As for the wiring, the only wires that are required to be spliced together are the fat purple and yellow wires from the 4T65E harness that plugs into the shift mechanism on the trans. That, and the green & orange wires need to be wired into the reverse switch on the F23. Otherwise in order to make it work like it came manual from the factory, you need to splice in some other wires as well. You need to wire the gray, green & black wires to the ground wire. So far all I've been able to test is the reverse light switch, which works as it should now. Here is the diagram for my 2002 GT: Based on this diagram, I wired the PPL and YEL wires(pin G & E from C1) together, ORN & LT GRN(pins B and F from C1) are the reverse switch wires, then GRY, BLK/WHT (pins C & D from C2) together with LT GRN & BLK(pins C & D from C1) all together. This *should* be an easy way to trick the PCM into thinking its in 2nd gear all the time and so no funny stuff with RPMs, and the BCM to think it's in park so that the trunk release and alarms and all that will still work. Also, very important: If you are using the stock rear manifold, it won't work without some modification. The crossover flange will interfere with the shift cables. You'll need to cut the tack welds on the back of the flange so you can rotate it so that it's not in the way of the shift cables. It will be close to the cables so I'm putting in a spare piece of sheet metal as a heat shield. Before: After modification:

If you can find a new one I’d suggest you sandblast it and powder coat. Then pour some paintable rust converter inside and coat it all around. That should stop your issues. I’ve never seen that happen before myself on any vehicle either.

The entire area where that issue has developed is due to corrosion. One can see the rot in the tube right there.....they ARE hollow, a common occurrence with the gen 2 front anti roll bars.

Thats a new one to me Ive had the subframe where it mounts rust out but never the bar itself.

front FE3 34mm second in the last three years ((( Why???

wow thats crazy i had to look in to this. been out of the w-body world for a few years now crazy to find parts are unavailable. the 284 master is larger bore but same slave between both 282-284 trans. so with a 282 master the pedal would be softer and pedal release height lower. I guess knowing this now.. Im going to have to figure out a replacement solution to fix this issue. maybe fab an adapter for a 2 bolt setup something more common and universal. right now im running the 282 master with a braided line to an internal slave setup 284 trans twin disc with pedal limiter. maybe we can make a aluminum adapter that screws in to the firewall? gotta keep these dubya bodys alive!! also. i heard Rodney Dickman is shutting down and selling the business.. crazy! good luck ion your search. ill ask around see if I can find any parts. -Jarek

Wow, this thread is a blast from the past. Just for reference making a new thread would probably be better. This thread is... nearly 20 years old Short answer, probably not. Long answer, I don't know, but. I'd wager the rate is different between the 3.4 and 4.3, and I think most 4.3s had spider injecton or something weird. don't listen to me though 4.3s aren't my cup of tea. A quick poke around on the internet seems to indicate that most FWD 94-96 3100s are a direct replacement, though double check me on that one.

Can I replace my 3.4 Pontiac Firebird fuel injectors with a 4.3 Chevy Silverado injectors? Are they interchangable? If not what is?

Thanks dude but I got them out a month or so ago. I was able to get alligator clips to hold on the disconnected harnesses under the seats to move them where I needed.

This is just an idea, as I dont know how long the CV axle is. But a rear CV Axle from a Buick Rendezvous AWD/Pontiac Aztek AWD/ or the U-Van AWD Chevy Uplander/Venture/Pontiac Montana/Buick Terraza/Oldsmobile Silhouette/Saturn Relay is a really long axle. Not sure how long, but pretty long. Autozone shows the Axle length at 31.5 inchs Extended, 28.33 inchs compressed https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/p/duralast-gold-rear-driver-or-passenger-side-cv-axle-9407n/401549_0_0 I have a bad one sitting in my garage from a Saturn Relay AWD that I am rebuilding. This is the only reason I had the idea. I do know the HUB stub should be a standard size, as the front and rear HUBs for the AWD are the same. You would have to replace the inboard Tri-Pot as its female. Or pull the end stub out of the rear axle and use it. My thought was that you replace the Female Tri-Pot, and the overall compressed length, because of the Axle stub is now included, should bring you right out to where you need to be. But this is just a best guess..

Does anyone know how to replace a burned out bulb in a 93 cutlass convertible!