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The other night I broke the crank on my vise and the armature on my chop saw burned up and chewed the brushes to bits so got no way to properly finished this up. Not going to hack it so need some replacement tools now. Good thing it’s a project car and I’m not driving it now. Almost have the mock-up finished. Really wanting to get the y-pipe hanger in place before I make the final weld on the passenger side muffler so shot doesn’t move around when I take the supports away.

I've seen this one before but I bet your right. It's gotta be a separate piece. Just have to figure out the part # for it.

Heres a picture of one on epay right now...... i can hardly make out if thats a small speed nut in the smaller hole above the key hole in the area the emblem would be, or if its just glue on .

Your welcome. I'll look for the rocket emblem on the back trunk panel tomorrow. Not sure if it's a separate piece or part of the panel. I learn new things about these cars all the time.

Thank you Jiggity76! I’ll call on the front side marker... how did we manage before the internet.

We've already talked about the window molding. If you're talking about this lamp, it's part #5977219 for the left side. Two places will have one. Friesens Chevrolet. 402-773-5538. Shirns GMC. 570-326-1581. If you're talking about the left side corner lens, it's part #5975445. Craig Motors-Napa GM. 800-224-8111.

a 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible with exactly 24,999 miles...and a 97 Cutlass Supreme SL 4dr. with 81K that my son who is about to become a first time driver will enjoy. The 94 Convert needs nothing. The 97 SL 4dr needs the left rear quarter molding that fits below the back window from edge of the left rear door and rides atop the quarter and terminates at the deck lid...about 15" long and has a rubber type feel to it. and one parking lamp left front.

a 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible with exactly 24,999 miles...and a 97 Cutlass Supreme SL 4dr. with 81K that my son who is about to become a first time driver will enjoy. The 94 Convert needs nothing. The 97 SL 4dr needs the left rear quarter molding that fits below the back window from edge of the left rear door and rides atop the quarter and terminates at the deck lid...about 15" long and has a rubber type feel to it. and one parking lamp left front.

The throttle body is the same on all other 3.1 MPFI engines, so a junkyard unit in better shape than yours is probably your best bet. What exactly is wrong with yours? Depending on what year 3.1 MPFI you pull a throttle body off of, you may need to swap the vacuum distribution block for the one off your original tb. The later cars had electronic egr's, so they only have three vacuum ports on top instead of four.

I’ve had much luck changing springs out on the car. I have coil overs now so makes the job much easier as they can come out the top without taking anything apart down below. There is a way to unload the factory spring on the car but may need to remove the entire assembly to get enough clearance to access and remove the spring and change the bearing. -with the car on the ground remove the strut cover plate - 3 bolts. You may want to mark the position of the nuts to avoid an alignment -remove the strut shaft upper nut. That’ll be the hardest part as its likely corroded on there and you

Does anyone know where I can get a throttle body rebuild/replacement for my 1989 TGP?

This picture may help.

No, what Chris is saying is to remove the entire strut as an intact assembly, once removed from the car then one disassembles it in the same manner as any other *conventional* strut, then you can replace the worn parts as necessary.

Thanks for the reply! Sorry I never got a notification. So you are saying I have to leave the top end of the strut together, jack the car, compress the spring and then undo the top of the strut and bottom knuckle? The weight of the car compresses the spring in place correct? If im able to pull the compressed spring out, i dont think ill have to remove the bottom knuckle/wheel hub/cv shaft.

I have all the parts lined up to do the work, I'm pretty much replacing everything in the suspension system within reason-- struts, bushings, ball joints, mounts, etc. Waiting until the weather improves enough that I feel like working out in the garage. By mid-March it's usually wrenching weather here, so it'll get the overhaul soon. My GP had odd-size tires when I bought it too, I think one was the correct 225/60/16, the others were 215/65/16. I bought a new set of four soon after I purchased it. For a 25 year old car it drives nice and tight and handles well. But it clunks pretty g

I wouldn't mind it as well, summer would be a better time for me to investigate this further, for my friends south-of-the-border this would be an awkward purchase until our PM decides to open up to cross border traffic again. I haven't been able to go to Buffalo since late last March.

Now I know what I want for Christmas! That would be a worthy replacement to my venerable 1994 coupe in the same color. Please keep us updated here, I couldn't make an offer at the moment but if its still available later this year I believe I would depending on what you`re hoping to get from it.

Many times. Almost killed myself once doing it. Used to have a pretty big hole in my garage wall from that. In short, no there is no way to service that on the car. pull the entire knuckle and strut assembly to service it. Once its out of the car you more or less service it how you would any other mcpherson strut. But be careful those springs are no joke.

I have a 1995 Buick Regal. Its basically a '96 but still has the Series 1 motor and electronics. One of the front Coil Spring Seat's is bad. Its the bearing that turns and rotates when you turn the front wheels. This sits below the spring, unlike most cars nowadays that it sits on top of the spring as part of the strut mount. Under normal working circumstances the spring does not rotate with the tire when turning in this design. Where I'm having trouble researching is how to remove the front springs.. The strut is a cartridge that is slid in from the top under the hood. And from what

I'll second what Steve said. Physically they will bolt right up, will the brake caliper hit? maybe? probably? not sure. 1G seem to have a weird offset that makes most wheels look sucked in more then they should. Should you go the route of spacers assuming they don't make it look ridiculous they should work. Test fitting would probably be your best course of action.

The wheels came off an Aurora (G platform) the wheels might have the same bolt circle as the W platform (but they could be either 115 or 118mm bolt circle) but will have the G & H platform design for brake hardware clearance. They will not clear the calipers on the 1st gen/1.5 gen W cars, they should clear the calipers on the later 2nd gen W cars as those vehicles adopted the H platform brakes/wheels.

Not a 100% sure if it's an original Alberta car, I know it's been sitting in a heated garage for the last few years in Calgary.

I have a set of 4 16x7j chrome rims from a 96 Aurora in good condition. Has anyone ever successfully fit them on mid 90’s Cutlass Supreme?

Does or will this repair procedure work for the [power door lock switch} for a 4 door Cutlass Supreme SL 1997? Thanks in advance!!

Hi Trent....I wound up finding a car. remarkably less than 70 miles from my home. 24,999(1) miles [I'm not making this up} I also, today Sunday Feb 20, 2021 purchased a 97 Supreme 4dr SL for a friend to use for school and work 82k miles needs > (Looking for a NOS ) power door lock switch drivers side. If you have a passenger door pwdl I'll take that to. Look forward to chatting with you. --Ben