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LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
cessna replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Hey Jiggity, You got yourself some keepers there Yes they are great cars, sometimes a pain to work on but I like the room inside don't like to be cramped up like some other coupe vehicles, I didn't get the cd option in this one, it has the cassette/am fm still works like new always getting offers to sell the car , maybe one day i'm getting older and don't really have the flexibility to get in these tight spaces to work on it although I have done most of the major stuff that seemed to plague these cars. timing belt, lim gaskets, alt. oil pump seal, so hopefully i wont need to get under the hood for awhile . just gas and go ....lol - Today
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Get yourself a multimeter, unplug the intake and coolant sensors, then measure the resistance across the terminals(one multimeter lead to each of the two terminals on the sensors. An auto-ranging multimeter will be simpler to use if you've never used one before. I can recommend a cheap one if need be.). Go here to see resistance values related to the sensors/codes you have: https://www.w-body.com/oldsite/ecm-codes.html The resistance values don't have to be exact, but should be close to those ranges at the specified temperatures. Failed coolant temp + iat sensors can cause the idle code and stalling as they change the idle air control valve position, fueling, etc. based on the information they report. Converter lockup is also based on coolant temperature, so a false cold temperature can cause lockup issues. Since your actual coolant gauge is reading low(this is a sending unit in the rear of the cylinder head separate from the actual coolant temp sensor the engine uses), I would try to verify the temperature of the engine because you could very well have a stuck open thermostat in addition to the other problems. A stuck open thermostat that won't allow the engine to reach proper temps will also cause lockup problems. I believe threshold coolant temperature for lockup to occur is somewhere around 130F. As for the "low coolant light," more often than not those sensors(located on the side of the radiator) get corroded or just fail completely. If you unplug the harness connected to the sensor, the light will go out. Unplugging the harness until you decide to replace the sensor will not hurt anything as it's just for the warning indicator light on the instrument panel. Some people have success restoring those to normal operation by cleaning them, so that might be worth a shot. If not, replace it if you want...or just leave the harness unplugged and actually check your coolant level at a regular interval. Engine coolant temperature sensor - this is located in the lower intake manifold just below the thermostat area on your 3.1. That manifold air temp sensor is going to be the "intake air temperature" sensor and is located in the rear of the air filter housing. Besides checking resistance, measure voltage on the harness for each sensor. One lead to each terminal and you should read 5 volts. Carefully touch the terminals on the harness, do not try to stick the multimeter leads inside the terminals or you'll spread them and cause problems. If necessary, have an assistant hold the harness for you while you very lightly touch those terminals to measure voltage.
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LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Beautiful! It looks to be in fantastic shape. The paint, the front bumper valence, looks really nice! Do you have the factory CD option? Although white isn't my first choice color, I have come around to it. I own two white W's and one day, I hope to have them looking like yours, nice and shiny! Thank you for posting and we all look forward to your future projects on your beauty! -
Sorry for your loss. Glad you got it back. My 94 cutlass was my favorite. Was Teal as well. Good luck with it. That is very low miles
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LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
cessna replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Hey jiggity here is a few pics of my 93 z34 been a great car for sure -
Thanks trucker I am going to clean that sensor or replace if necessary. I think also the o2 just for good measure and a fresh thermostat and gasket to see if she functions well with the proper I'm assuming 195 degree stat. I understand why the idle tripped a code as you say it was off idle over a certain amount of time but do you think temperature has anything to do with that? Vacuum leak maybe?
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That code 23 is for the IAT intake air temp, the sensor is inside the airbox, that works hand in hand with the MAP sensor to establish the proper barometric pressure & the temp of the ambient air, necessary for proper air/fuel mixture. The sensor may just be filthy, or needs replacing. Code 15 is the ECM coolant temp sensor, that code explains the torque converter lockup situation. Code 35 will set if the idle rpm is out of range for more than 50 secs.... 200 rpm above or below the commanded norm.
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So I ran the diagnostic paper clip...if I found the right list of codes heres what I have.... Code 15 coolant temp sensor low temp indicated Code 23 manifold air temperature low temp indicated Code 35 idle speed control circuit This is making sense now as I've noticed that the temperature gauge only reads about a quarter way past the C. So I'm figuring that someone put a cold stat in it or it's stuck open....hence she's running too cold. As for the idle speed I noticed today that my idle got a bit erratic a few times and she stalled leaving a stop 3 times. So does it have an idle controller? I gotta fix that as I'm afraid she will leave me stalled pulling into traffic. Any help appreciated
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Hey everyone It's a 93 lumina 3.1 liter 4t60e. The guy I bought it off of had changed the coolant sensor but it is still showing low coolant and tripping a code. I'm thinking a loose connection maybe? Perhaps a bad sensor out of the box? As far as the rpm it does it in the 50 to 55 mph range. I don't go any faster than that due to my insurance discount. I'm definitely going to change the O2 and MAO sensors. Any suggestions as to why it is still tripping a coolant light with a new sensor?
- Yesterday
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more information is needed.......what code/s? If one does not have a scanner or code reader any stored codes can be interpreted with a simple paperclip. Remove the diagnostic port cover (under the driver kneepad,) slip one end of the paperclip into the upper right pin opening & the pin opening directly to it's left. Key on (do not start), the system is now in diagnostic mode (you should hear the fans come on), the service engine light will light up ..then flash a Code 12...*that's a single flash ..a pause then 2 more flashes ..12. any stored codes will flash up afterwards in the same manner.......example..Code 44 ..o2 sensor lean situation...4 flashes ..a pause 4 more flashes. If there are multiple codes stored they will flash one after the other so watch for the breaks in between (write them down). The ECM coolant temp sensor does not have a light, if what you're seeing in the cluster is the coolant sensor LEVEL lamp coming on that is not ECM related and will not set a code. If the lamp stays on even with a fresh sensor installed I'd start looking at harness issues. Let us know what you find.......
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Yup, you both are on target, ain't no way I'm going on the cheap route, I'm looking into what they call their "Premium" job. While I don't want to spend big bucks on this car I don't want it to look off either. I've already contacted them & they say their cheap jobs start at $700 (yikes) and the Premium Level starts at $2400. I'm thinking of spending somewhere around $3000-$3500 or so. I could be dreaming, especially up here in the Northeast, but we'll see. As soon as I get it mechanically sound I'll see about the paint. I wouldn't be even thinking about this for any other car, but since I bought it new, my Dad owned it for 6 years and my brother the last year, and I am hoping to give it to my nephew when he's old enough to drive later this year, it's the family aspect that's saving this car from being parted out. I'll take a few photos of it this weekend and post them as proof that one should not buy a car sight unseen. Photos are going to hide the fact the clear coat on the drivers side of the car is shot.
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Hey everyone It's a 93 lumina 3.1 liter 4t60e. The guy I bought it off of had changed the coolant sensor but it is still showing low coolant and tripping a code. I'm thinking a loose connection maybe? Perhaps a bad sensor out of the box? As far as the rpm it does it in the 50 to 55 mph range. I don't go any faster than that due to my insurance discount. I'm definitely going to change the O2 and MAO sensors. Any suggestions as to why it is still tripping a coolant light with a new sensor?
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Maaco's level of quality 150% comes down to the prep. If you pick the cheapest, they will literally just mask off the glass and lamps and spray right over the old paint and everything else. If the car is prepped properly (e.g. you pay a bunch more) their paint jobs are fine.
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Conrgrats on getting the car back, sorry about your father passing away. Paint jobs are all about prep. Everything I've heard about MAACO is location dependent, and specifically dependent on the individual doing the work, so its really hard to judge MAACO jobs. High quality paint jobs are very expensive, so you get what you pay for. If it was for a car I was going to keep, and didn't want to put a lot of money into, I wouldn't have a problem with it, as long as I know going in, you get what you pay for. IMO its worth a try, but I think I'd start looking at junkyards, specifically car-parts.com just to see if there are the parts you need within a reasonable distance, that might not need painted. Never know if there is something out there in a jy, that was garage kept, or at least cleaned and waxed regularly that might have the right color (and a bit faded too, in order to match).
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Over this past weekend I was re-united with my teal colored 1994 Cutlass Supreme I bought new. I gave it to my dad in 2012 and my brother got it in 2018. My Dad passed away last month and my brother decided he didn't want to look at it anymore, I get that. As I'm the original owner it has different meanings to me. It's got 90,000 miles on it (my Dad put 3000 miles on it in 6 years and my brother logged in 10,000 in 15 months). I plan on using it to drive to work 3 to 5 days in order to keep the mileage off my white 1996 CS which I'll use for long trips. The first thing it needs BADLY is a new O2 sensor, then a close 2nd is brakes, they are so bad I have to downshift all the way to 1st to get the car stopped. New Struts will follow and this will include the Rear Strut Tower Brace I got from this site from AWEB80 (I think I got his last one).The factory FTB I had my brother put on the front that only came on the convertibles stays put. If all this works out mechanically I plan to get it re-painted. My dad let the car sit for months on end facing the same way and the paint on drivers side of the car is noticeably more tired than the passengers side. Anyone have any thoughts on using MAACO to paint the car? It needs virtually no body work, no rust and it's never been in an accident. It looks like the Maaco premium they offer might be good. This is not a high value classic car so it simply is not worth dumping big money into a paint job. My biggest concern is whether they can adequately match the code 43 Bright Aqua Metallic paint that's original to the car. Not looking to spend a fortune on a car that's worth $2000.
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LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Ah yes, a 93 Z34. Awesome! Keep those red wires, I don't want to say they are impossible to find but they are kinda impossible to find right now. -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
MemphisMan replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Glad to know that starting on the back bank worked for you. I might try that next time. How many miles did you have on your Lumina when you did your belt? I see you have 92k on it now. It's really cool to see original owners on here! -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
MemphisMan replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Yes, I think it would be easier to route the belt over the back pulleys first, but I've always been schooled in leaving as much slack as possible where the actuator will engage. I don't remember the belt being that difficult to put on the cogs when I did the vert timing belt. If you do end up route over the back pulleys first, and it works, will you please update this thread? I'll be doing my 91 Cutlass Sedan soon and would like to try it for sure. -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
I can tell it's a 93, a coupe or sedan, and low mileage due to the original plug wires. Am I close? -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Your are the original owner, that's incredible! I can't wait to see pics of it! Please hurry. -
I would be very reluctant to provide a method to falsify mileage on an open forum.
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LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
cessna replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
I only change what is needed when needed , car still runs like new 92,000 miles on it had this baby since day one had 3 miles on it when i bought it I will have to dig up some pics to post for you -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
jiggity76 replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Awesome pics! Yes, the video MemphisMan did is helping a lot of us LQ1 guys out. What car is this motor living in? It looks like a 93 car. Please post pics, would love to see it! And, you have your original front red GM plug wires, so envious of that! -
LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change
cessna replied to MemphisMan's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
Great video on replacement, I went threw this same process last year and it was a challenge for sure but I did pull the belt towards the front after finding that I couldn't get enough room for my hands to pull tension in the rear . I had no problem with the new tensioner on mine fitting the bracket but that is something to keep in mind for the next one if I encounter that problem ... Once again nice job thought I would drop a few pics of my mess also ...oh by the way mine is a 1993 lumina z34 - Last week
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A failing o2 sensor can cause the convert lockup to be erratic, the PCM will no longer be able to constantly keep the fuel system in closed loop, closed loop is necessary for lock up. Map sensor failure can cause a stalling issue, the PCM cannot properly control air/fuel ratio if it cannot properly know what the ambient air pressure is. If the PCM coolant temp sensor (not the gauge) is out of calibration the same can occur as the o2 situation.
