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I wish my 12v plug worked in the car, so I could use the Scantool as I'm driving. Right now I'm using my other vehicle for power on the Scantool. But I dont have any gas smell from the car, but the Charcoal canister isn't holding vacuum. The lines are good cause I capped the ones over the tank to the canister and it held vacuum as well as the one from the purge solenoid to the tank. Both check out good. And the idle issue is occurs at low speed coasting and braking. I'm at a loss. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk - Yesterday
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I like that the placement of the fog lights on the later cars. Inset with the bumpers. On the earlier ones they just hang out the bottom.
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Top pic is my 94 Bottom pic is a friends 93
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I also agree that those are aftermarket. Wrong location for factory.
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either/or, more trailer is more better, obviously
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Do you recommend a 53 foot trailer or a 62 foot one??
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It's worth every dime, even if the shipping is more expensive. Put one of these on your CS and you will never go back. HUGE improvement in the ride!
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Just got back from putting about 1000 miles on my 1996 Cutlass, my only issue was my purchase of buying cheap RainX windshield wipers came back to haunt me. The passengers side blade just wouldn't stay put and kept popping off. In a pinch I used what I had, a 22 inch Michelin wiper, and although the manual calls for 20 inch on both sides, this 22 inch works so well I'm leaving it on. It j-u-s-t fits in the wiper well in the cowl (a drivers side 22" won't fit there) and I get the benefit of 1 inch more wipe on each side of the blade. So for now it's 20" drivers, 22" passengers side.
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I’m a little late to the party so this may be useless but I have removed and installed these. There should be 4 or 5 really long screws holding them on and one short one. Take these screws out of the flare. Once those are out there is a spacer that goes between the fender and the flare. Take the spacer out and then simply push the flare up. I would clean the fender really good and spray some silicon spray in between the fender and the flare so you minimize scratches when it comes up. It’s held onto he fender by small steel hooks that are riveted to the fender.
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Inner sway bar bushings removal
metallic95 replied to metallic95's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I'll definitely be doing that next, it steers so much nicer with the new ball joints already. I'm not sure what size sway bar mine has though, rockauto lists like 5 different bushing sizes for the inners. Is the VIN number any good for that or do I have to go and grab some dial calipers lol? -
I’ll check my codes to see if there are from the factory. Thank you! She’s come along way! She just took first in a car show
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Tdogg joined the community
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Looking at your olds I’m thinking the fog lights are aftermarket try following the wires. Also that’s a nice looking Cutlass
- Last week
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This is what my dash and buttons are. There is t a button anywhere. It’s odd.
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There is a switch on your center console just up from your shifter handle.
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This is what you should have, 90-93 are set up like this.
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Here is a picture of the fog light switch of a 1993 Cutlass fog light switch location location is different than mine by any chance I’ve seen some older Cutlass with a lot of switch’s located in the steering wheel??
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The pulse width should not be *0* persay, one should still see a reading that will fluctuate with the throttle position. The o2 should be in the middle of the scale .. .45v. The evap does not come into play at engine idle (both closed & open loop), the PCM will open the solenoid to the evap system only when the throttle is off idle such as when the vehicle is moving, when the throttle is in the overrun position (off the throttle when moving) the PCM will close the evap solenoid. Check the vacuum line from the intake port to the evap solenoid for a possible leak on the engine side of the solenoid, if you've a leak THERE then that will affect idle performance. It may very well be that you also have a leak in the evap lines at the fuel tank, they will rot out there but you can't see them because they are hidden by the rear transverse spring. Are you getting any stink of fuel from the rear of the car when the engine is running or shortly after you shut off the engine? -
I’ve asked Oldsmobile club members if anyone has info about the fog lights on a 90. If I get an answer I’ll pass it on
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My 90 doesn’t have any of that. All I have is the headlight button. Where your light switch is is where by convertible top button is. It’s strange. I know fog lights were an option but there should still be a switch for them.
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No question is stupid In my 94 there is a switch on left side of dash just below the light switch just left of air conditioning vent this next answer is from owners manual “When using fog lights, parking lights or low beam headlights must be on. The fog lights will go off whenever high beam headlights come on. When high beams go off, the fog lights come on again.” took pictures of my switch location sorry cant be of more help good luck
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This is prolly a stupid question but how do the fog lights turn on on a first gen W Vert? There isn’t a switch and they don’t come one with the head lights on. The bulbs aren’t blown.
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Rechecked vacuum lines and checked to see if I had a bad brake booster, A/T vacuum modulator, or if I had any other major vacuum related issue with a vacuum pump/gauge. Its normal 18-19 lbs, minus a slight rapid needle, (I'm guessing wear on the valve train). Anyways I got to checking the Evap system and found that the line that runs to charcoal canister at rear of car would not hold vacuum. I unplugged it and capped that line and took the car for a drive, and I believe 100% that's where my idle fluctuation problem is. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
