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How do you "drop the hammer" without a 5-speed? I agree...your uncle had good taste in cars.

The 60 degree v6 and radwood classifieds group, rad for sale, might have people interested in it, particularly the latter.

Yeah, definitely not factory. For starters, the font on those stickers looks hideous and cheap and doesn't correlate with anything from Chevy, the Lumina OR Days of Thunder. Plus the phrase "Thunder Lumina" doesn't make sense and isn't something GM would have used, so the stickers definitely aren't "official". Secondly, as @White93z34 mentioned, that is an aftermarket body kit, not a factory Z34 kit. The front and rear bumper covers have a similar general look, but there are several differences. It looks like the fronts have little cut outs for fog lights maybe? Hard to tell from the angel you took the pics, but whatever they are, that's not something present on the Z34. On the back, there is only a single outlet for the exhaust rather than dual outlets, and the spot for the license plate is in the "normal" spot whereas it gets moved to in between the tail lights on the Z34s. The rocker panel pieces are just a side skirt on this kit whereas on the Z34s, the middle pieces would be full cladding that went up as high on the door/panels as the front and rear bumper cover pieces. As far as value, given there's nothing special about it and considering how much it would cost to restore it cosmetically and mechanically, I'd hate to say it but I don't think it's worth anything at all. If it were mine, I would maybe remove the body kit and hood to see if I can scrape a few bucks out of selling those separately (the vents used to be popular for older Wranglers) and junk the rest for the most money I can get. Sorry. I know that's not what you were looking to hear.

I'll forgive the reddit link So this is one of those situations where rare and valuable don't really line up. Yes its quite rare, no its not really worth much. Perhaps if it was perfect condition it could bring a little on a site like Bring a Trailer as an oddity. Those, I think were some sort of dealer package back in the day, its a 1990 Lumina Euro with a Razzi bodykit (which in it self is rare nowadays). and some stickers on the door. I've seen one other one in person but that was a very very long time ago. Over the years someone added the hood from a Lumina Z34 to it. now you add Black Widows to the equation and you can either take it to the Northwest Territories for the winter to freeze them to death or you can set it on fire.... I kid . I'm too far east to have ever encountered one so thats my default reaction when I see one of those. I'm sure SOMEONE out there would like it but I wouldn't expect to garner much money out of it.

I guess you're saying that the relay socket has proper power on the connector for 30, and the output of the relay has conductivity to the "S" terminal on the connector for 87. The problem is therefore ahead of the crank relay, on the control side of the relay wiring. Could be on the power side, or on the ground side. Obtain a service manual for your vehicle, look at the schematic for the starter circuit, trace the wires 'til you find the problem. Specifically, will a grounded test light illuminate if touched to the connector of the relay socket for 85 when the key is turned to "Crank"? Will a powered test light illuminate when touched to the connector for 86? Substitute "Solenoid "S" terminal" for "Fuel Pump"; and ignore the "from stock plug" in the following diagram.

I’ve never seen anything like that. Z34s are rare enough so this one is very very rare. It’s only worth what someone is willing to pay though. Certainly not ready for the crusher so please don’t. Roof panel is easy to renew. New dash pad, lower dash front. Rear deck probably and maybe a RESP ray on the trunk and hood. Doable. If youre not up to the challenge and want to see your uncles ride road worthy then finding a few facebook groups would be a good way to find a new owner to take care of it. Sorry about your uncle. He had a good taste in cars.

P1571- EBCM control valve circuit. looked it up and I see a few different procedures with this one, I guess I'm not sure which to approach first

Starter is getting proper voltage and signal from the fuse box because it will crank as much as desired when I jump the crank relay sockets . And I did do the dirty S terminal test before I realized I can test it straight from the fuse box . The Pk system is still active . Theft alarm went off when it I didn't turn the door key all the way to the right to open it . But none of the ATS lights come on nor the message on the orange display .

Wonder if it is the pk3 system, that seems to be what everything is leading to. Does anyone know if there’s some sort of indicator the pk3 system is active?

1. The ignition module doesn't deliver voltage to the crankshaft position sensor. 2. Connect your voltmeter to the "S" terminal of the starter motor. Do you have system voltage at the "S" terminal when the key is turned to "Start"? Either you have power to the "S" terminal, and the starter/solenoid/main battery cable has failed; or you have no power to the "S" terminal. In that case, the problem is in the control circuit--battery to ignition switch, to safety switch(es), to the starter solenoid.

ICM delivering proper voltage to crank sensor, but nothing cranks. Everything lights up when the key is turned but nothing happens in ignition phase. Anyone? Bueller?

I'm not aware of any online *free* source that could supply you with the schematics to be downloaded. Alldata would be the most recognized online source but one has to buy a subscription to the service. https://www.ebay.com/itm/314081709204?_skw=grand+prix+service+manuals&itmmeta=01J80R0NQYEA2W7F0QPRY834E9&hash=item4920ba8c94:g:~D4AAOSwna9iuiRv $110 US...money well spent....and you'll have them forever.

Ah ok, so not a easily available for download or something online Would the Haynes ones have what I’m looking for? Or do I need the actual factory one for stuff like wiring diagrams

It never hurts to have the manuals close by if you intend on doing service work yourself. Ebay would be my 1st suggestion on where to look for a set of used manuals.

Do you have to purchase the service manuals or are they online somewhere? And yeah I’ve looked online and there are some decent ones, but I was more looking for if anyone in this fourm specifically has any experiences( good or bad) with any specific ones, I know it’s the same generally for all passkey 3 systems, but I don’t know, extra reassurance I guess

Have you tried looking at Consumer Reports, Forbes or Safewise for their ratings on such items? You'll need the service manual for the electrical wiring diagrams or you'll be somewhat lost.

I’m gonna be installing a viper 5303v soon, and I’m just wondering what everyone’s solution is for the pk3 system, I’ve seen some different type of immobilizers, but I’m not sure which are actually good and which are just junk. Also does anyone have the wiring diagrams for some of the interior connectors that I may need to tap into for this. Along with any tips anyone may have from doing the before on the second gen stuff

Re-scan, write down the code, use the service manual diagnostic procedure for that code.

Well, I don't know what the answer is, what they are. My official 1998 W body GM manuals only offer up remove the splash shield and there ya go. I can tell you that my 1999 LS has the same clearance issues. Like my GS, no splash shield. Just frame in the way like my GS. No room for both a puller with the short Lisle "retrofit" screws and space to pull it off. No supercharger, obviously. If one didn't need a puller and it would slide off of the crank, there MIGHT be enough room. If there is one part that is beyond simple, it is a MAF sensor. Two pieces of wire, one shielded from the air stream, the other open to it. No moving parts. If the wires meet the resistance standards for the sensor, nothing can be different from one sensor brand to another. I've long believed that many replacement parts come off of the same assembly line as the OEM. Ya think Dorman contracts with some outfit to make and sell a few thousand balancers or tensioner assemblies a year? Wouldn't make economic sense. However, if the OEM manufacturer has the right to sell to others, easily stipulated in the contract. Look at Delphi. Oops, I mean ACDelco.... Those of us with grease under our fingernails know that Delphi makes most of the appropriate stuff for GM, probably sole source. Thanks for the thoughts and conversation.

My uncle recently passed away unexpectedly and the only search results I could find for the special Days of Thunder 1990 Lumina model he had was a post on this forum 20 years ago asking if they actually existed. It's my understanding that the Z34 package didn't come out until 1991, so this was basically the Z34 a year early. He was the original owner, but parked it in the driveway over a decade ago and it hasn't moved since, so it is rust free but very sun damaged, especially interior, and the tires are rotted. While I am curious about the value and rarity, I'm more concerned about getting it to someone that would actually appreciate it rather than a junkyard. I posted some pictures over on Reddit and found a Lumina group on Facebook. https://www.reddit.com/r/classiccars/s/rsBQlkuYGb

I’ve had this issue since I got this car but haven’t really looked into it, my tcs off light on my dic is constantly on, abs still works great, so it’s not like the usual issue on these cars where they’re both off, can’t remember the code it threw when I scanned it, but it had something to do with the tcs circuit, anyone have any ideas?

You can disagree with me on that all you like but all I'm saying is for all the 3800 SC ballancers I've pulled in that chassis I NEVER have had to drop the subframe or take hunks out of the chassis. Nor have I ever heard of anyone doing this before. And yes, you're correct if you are talking like for like parts. I buy online all the time, I'm well aware. Electronic parts, ESPECIALLY Mass Air flows are notoriously shit these days unless you are able to hunt down the OEM manufacturer Hitatchi in most cases for 3800s. There is so much garbage on the automotive aftermarket its rather shocking. If you get a $20 MAF that actually works then buy yourself a lottery ticket. I wouldn't mess with that personally. I know i'm hardly alone in this view.

Nope, With the much wider balancer on the GS, at least in the Regal, it was absolutely necessary to cut off several inches of the pinch weld AND drop the right side of the subframe several inches to get the clearances necessary. Not just for the balancer, but for the arms of the puller. Even with all that, the puller had to be positioned "just so" in order work. Auto parts pricing has little or nothing to do with quality. I'm talking about sometimes the EXACT SAME Dorman or ACDelco part, for intamce. New Dorman balancer, $85 on Amazon, EXACT SAME part at the stores, $137. An even bigger difference for the tensioner assembly. Front cover Fel-pro gasket set on Amazon, $18, here the next day. At the parts stores, double that. And do you think tat a generic part like the throttle position sensor is any different than the parts stores house brands like Duralast? And why is the accessory serpentine belt $30 at the stores, but $19 on Amazon? Greed and profits, I will answer for you. (I do understand that running a store does cost money compared to a warehouse, so that does account for some difference, for sure.)

Kinda guessing they figured it out eleven years ago.

Fresh fuel, fuel filter, and charging/replacing battery and inspecting battery cables are essential--but I might check fuel pressure at prime BEFORE changing parts. Verify serpentine belt. Inspect air filter--make sure rodents haven't made a nest in the airbox, or chewed-through the filter. Verify ALL other fluid levels: engine oil, ATF, PS, Brake, engine coolant, etc. Change fluids and filters as desired--I might run the engine for a day or two to assess it's condition, then change all the fluids and filters. You may need a scan tool to properly flush the brake fluid. See service manual for details. Stall-misfire? Verify ignition system--coil packs, plug wires, spark plugs. Check coil output voltage using a spark-tester calibrated for HEI. (Use one that the spark jumps an actual calibrated gap, the ones where the spark makes a light-bulb glow are worthless.) Cranking compression test to verify basic engine health while the spark plugs are removed for inspection/replacement. There are many suppliers and designs of spark-testers. My favorite style are ones like this, and the price is very reasonable: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WZXAWK/?coliid=I3S98D7T1J0RLJ&colid=2VLYZKC3HBBDO&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it Connect a scan tool, verify EVERY sensor. All but the O2 sensor, and MAF (if equipped) can have at least some testing done before the engine even starts. Expect to replace the O2 sensor, they get slow with age/mileage. IF (big IF) the cranking compression, ignition system, and the computer sensors check out, you may have fuel injector trouble. That's often harder to diagnose than ignition/sensor items, so I assume they're good until everything else has been proven OK.