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Ok, so I located the orange wire off the bcm and only got .49v with key on.

Yep, it's the middle connector C2, pin B8. If you have a multimeter, you can check and make sure there's continuity or low ohms between that pin and N3 of the relay socket.

So no change in voltage at the bcm pin with charger going. but I located the bcm and I guess when I had a security setup and then removed cause it sucked, I was able to pull it down. I don't know if there are more than 1 orange wire on that connection but I did read I think 12v with poking it with the voltmeter if it was the right orange wire in the middle connector on the bcm. Is there a diagram of what pin that orange wire is in on the connector? I have 14.75v running.

I bet your mirrors won't get warm because they're controlled by the same relay as the rear window defogger. What's the voltage with the car running?

Don't have heated seats, but do have heated mirrors. Voltage is 12.3 at the battery. I am gunna try putting the battery charger on and see if I get voltage on the bcm pin. Also I will see if the mirrors get warm.

Do your heated seats work? Looks like heated seat relays are powered by the same wire from the BCM. I couldn't find how the wire is routed, just a view of the BCM. I did come across an interesting passage in the Rear Window Defogger Description text: "If battery voltage is low, the BCM will disable the rear window defogger by removing the battery positive voltage supplied to the REAR DEFOG relay coil." How's your battery voltage?

Ok, soo this is one area I have been trying to find a way to bypass drl or shift them to the fogs. I have a 01' ss monte. Anyone have any methods for this? I have wanted to put the fogs AZ my drl but haven't had any luck figuring this one out! Thanks for ant help with this one!

Honestly I have no other issues with the car. Once in a while my oil psi gauge won’t read but if I turn the key off and back on it resumes functioning normal. The only other problem I have is with a/c pump not turning off and staying engaged continuously. That I figured is probably a pressure switch issue. I replaced the pressure switch but I am waiting till it gets warmer to charge the freon back up. When I pull the bcm down I will check for voltage out of the orange wire and see if or where it's loosing power to the relay fuse block. Are there any images of how it's routed and loomed from the bcm to the relay fuse block on the passenger side?

I found a column from a 93 pontiac grand prix so iam hoping it will work

Yep, there should be +12V from the BCM on relay pin N3, I'm thinking when the ignition is on. The panel then grounds L2 when rear defog is on, which should close the relay. Looks like the +12V is missing. The BCM supplies the positive to the relay coil while the panel supplies the negative. The BCM also powers other things, according to the little note "Starting and Charging Schematics in Engine Electrical". I wonder if any of those things are not working?

Sounds good, I will check that this weekend and see what I get. So I just want to make sure I am understanding all this... but am I to understand that the 12v should be coming from the bcm to the relay and over to the switch to close the circuit? On the bcm terminal there's only .5v

Update. the 9.6121 pads work perfectly. I sprayed them down with silicone during install and not a peep or a squeak out of anything.

Ah, so the relay is good and the HVAC panel is good. Looks like the BCM is bad or there's a bad connection between the ORN wire going from BCM to N3. Now I would disconnect the BCM and check for continuity between B8 on connector C2 of the BCM and N3 pin on the socket of the relay.

Ya I can feel and hear the relay switching with the button on and off.

Interesting that it's 12V with the button on or off. It may be a transistorized output with its "off" state floating, so we won't be able to see the voltage change without a small load across it. With the relay out, can you use jumper wires to connect L2 and L3 to the relay's #85 and #86 pins (the coil) and see if it clicks on and off with the button on the HVAC panel? It's possible the panel is different, but if it looks identical and has an identical connector, I doubt it would be different.

Yes I have 12v between L2 & L3 with button on. But I also have 12v with the button off.... There's one thing I forgot to say, but the temp control panel was swapped out at one point from another monte... I didn't have my window terminal fixed before the change (its fixed now)... don't know what yr it was but they were identical at least on hookups. Could it be possible that the panel is different from the original that would cause this?

Connect your meter positive lead to the 12V on L3 and negative lead to the relay socket L2. With button on, do you see +12V? L2 should short to ground when the button is on. On the diagram, the "Rear Defog Relay Control" is an electronic switch and that tapered 3-line symbol is ground.

Ok, so I have tested voltage previously with relay removed. I have 12v on L3, but I ground out the negative terminal of my volt meter and have tested n3/L2 seperate. I have .5v on n3, 0v on L2 with button on. I will try a jumper for n3/L2 and see if any voltage is there and report back. I was thinking that I should have 12v coming from the defrost button (L2) and not the bcm (n3)...

At the best of times these oil pressure sending units are of questionable accuracy. But these gauges aren't really padded out at all meaning that they are fairly active as oil pressure changes. Which seems relatively similar to how yours is acting. I'd be more suspect of junk new parts then any issues with your engine.

Might be worth confirming oil pressure problems with a mechanical oil pressure gauge to make sure it's not from bad oil pressure sensors. I didn't find anything definite, but anything I could find mentions it's on the oil pump. Is there any signs of sludging?

You should be seeing +12V when measuring across pins #85 and #86 on the relay socket (N3 and L2 in the diagram). L2 should be grounded and N3 should be +12V with the ignition turned on. If you don't see +12V on N3, try checking with positive lead of your voltmeter in N3 and negative lead on any grounded metal screw.

I mean old setup as in the 95 and under intake. I will definitely change the PCV setup and thank you for your input on how to do so.

It would be silly to "go back to the old setup". The old setup was provably WRONG and caused oil leaks because it was so wrong. The fresh-air inlet cannot be teed to the hose on the PCV valve. Keep the PCV valve hose separate, find a vacuum source to plug it into--which is likely going to be AHEAD of the turbo since everything downstream of the turbo will be positive pressure not vacuum. This is what is going to be the tricky part. Kinda guessing this is going to wind up really-close to the turbo air inlet. The vent hose can go anywhere farther upstream of the turbo, atmospheric pressure but in the air-intake system somewhere--no vacuum, no pressure, but not vented to the Whole World. Perhaps instantly downstream from the air filter. The air filter keeps the fumes from leaving the engine, but there shouldn't be significant vacuum, either.

I am trying to figure out the issue with my rear defrost. I have no voltage back at the grid or the plug to the defrost/antenna module. I press the button and the light turns on but I don't hear a click for the relay. I have tested for voltage at the relay and have 12v on the 30 pin but no voltage on any other pin when the button is pushed on. I am wondering if it's possibly the hvac control panel. I don't know how power is routed into the relay to know if it's the panel or bcm that supplies the power for the relay. I sure hope someone can direct me on where to look next. Thanks for any guidance here!!

Yeah not my proudest drunk posting, that was a rough week outside the forum and I just stick to coffee from now on. Very sorry about that OP, Schurkey and the rest of the forum. Its not an advisable thing to do unless in a real pinch and just needing to move the vehicle. Poking Schurkey is also not advisable, dont do that either.