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Interesting article. If those valuations are accurate, my '95 CS convertible was a better investment than I initially thought. I basically bought the thing because it was immediately affordable but I had no illusions of it ever being a particularly valuable collector car, despite their apparent rarity. In the time I've owned mine, I have only seen two others on the road and only one CS coupe, despite the city where I live having been home to one of the region's strongest Oldsmobile dealers. To my mind, one of the major arguments against it achieving cult collector status is their build quality
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Rocker-bolt torque for GM 3100 (2003 Buick Century)
White93z34 replied to Sigea's topic in Powertrain
I mean, either way the last post before today was 2013 I'd hope he got it resolved by whatever means by now. -
Rocker-bolt torque for GM 3100 (2003 Buick Century)
55trucker replied to Sigea's topic in Powertrain
Please refrain from resurrecting very old *fossilized* threads.... -
sam jones joined the community -
Rocker-bolt torque for GM 3100 (2003 Buick Century)
sam jones replied to Sigea's topic in Powertrain
#1, you don't know what you are doing, #2 their is nothing wrong with the torque wrench, the reason why you are pulling the threads on the head is because when you try to tighten the rocker arm bolt down, the cam lobe is at the highest position , in turn is pushing the push rod up and when you are torquing the bolt, you are pushing the valve spring with it, there is pressure on the spring and that what making the thread pulling, you have to rotate the engine to relieve the pressure on the spring before you can tighten the bolt, the push rod should be at the lowest position, when you are removi -
How to install aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry?
55trucker replied to 95WhitePrix's topic in General
You're quite welcome.- 5 replies
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How to install aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry?
95WhitePrix replied to 95WhitePrix's topic in General
Thanks for the help! -
How to install aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry?
55trucker replied to 95WhitePrix's topic in General
This IS '91.......do not know for sure if there were any alterations in the wiring configuration. ess essentially the relay just reverses the current flow thru the door lock motors to command them to open or close.- 5 replies
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How to install aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry?
95WhitePrix replied to 95WhitePrix's topic in General
I think I have figured out exactly what I need to tap into. Now I just need the system to come. -
How to install aftermarket Remote Keyless Entry?
55trucker replied to 95WhitePrix's topic in General
You'll need to get your hands on a wiring schematic for the vehicle, preferably the factory manual to detail the system characteristics, I take it you're thinking of something like a Viper 1 way entry system?, they usually include their own rough schematic for tapping into the car's harness.- 5 replies
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How do I go about installing a aftermarket remote keyless entry system to just lock and unlock the doors on my 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE coupe? Can I just wire it up to the power lock switch in the door? What polarity is the lock system triggered by? I can't find any info on this anywhere for these cars.
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Shorty1970 changed their profile photo -
98chevyguy joined the community
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No. First Guess: You didn't re-connect something that you took apart. Second Guess: Something you re-connected actually has a poor connection. I'd be verifying the battery cables. Do you have power to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid when the key is in the "crank" position? No power to "S" terminal, no crank. Ignition switch, neutral safety switch, and the wire harness are probably causes. I had to replace about three feet of the wire that connects to the "S" terminal on my '97 K2500 7.4L. The wire was black with corrosion at the starter end. It had be
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Here's one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Flow-Restrictor-Heater-Hose-Elbow-3-4-99-14-Ford-Lincoln-XR3Z-18599-AA-/322819838893
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Composite brake rotors.
GnatGoSplat replied to ron350's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
I've definitely never seen the full cast rotors. I needed 5mm spacers for my aftermarket front wheels to clear the calipers. Turns out, I could have just used full-cast rotors instead! Speaking of the spacers, I recall I had to push out the 96 style lugnuts and replace them with the ones from my old hub when I swapped to the 96 hub for the spacers to work. -
Got another question I did unhook battery and it was out of car for a week or little over with no power to car at all would that have anything to do with it not cranking
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The full cast rotors I had to return had .250 -inch thick mounting flanges The factory front rotors measure .100 –inch thick mounting flanges.
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Composite brake rotors.
GnatGoSplat replied to ron350's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
I think I've only ever seen the composite ones. All of my rotors have had the raised lip on the center bore. I've never seen the full cast. How thick are their hats? Seems like it would be noticeably much thicker to lose that many threads on the studs. -
If you have the two types side by side it is easy to tell the difference. Every GM Composite rotor or drum I have seen has a raised retaining ring that holds the steel center. The Full cast rotors or drums do not have the retaining rings. The steel centers on a composite rotor and drum have a raise center lip that will cut your hand If you ever replaced brake shoes on a GM vehicle from the 70’s you held a composite brake drum.
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Composite brake rotors.
GnatGoSplat replied to ron350's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
Huh, since they come out looking like 1-piece, I'm not sure I could tell a full-cast from a composite except maybe for the thickness of the hat. I do remember those smooth-ended studs. I had a low-mileage front hub pulled from a 96 Monte that was like that. -
Yeah, I'm guessing it must have looked like a very simple thing for me to think I should have just made one instead of replacing the fitting. I just have zero recollection of what it might have looked like. Making one out of a piece of aluminum might have been ideal, never have to worry about it crumbling apart.
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Composite brake rotors.
mfewtrail replied to ron350's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
The pictures here cover it, but the article is pretty short as well. http://www.remaninc.com/pdfs/compositevsfullcastrotors.pdf -
Most restrictors I've seen are just an orifice smaller than the diameter of the hose they're installed in. You could make one out of about a 1,000 different things so long as it's large enough to not dislodge and enter/block the core.
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Got another question I did unhook battery and it was out of car for a week or little over with no power to car at all would that have anything to do with it not cranking
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Composite brake rotors.
GnatGoSplat replied to ron350's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
What are composite brake rotors? Anyone got a side-by-side comparison? I know 2-piece rotors exist with the rotor part bolted to the hat, but I guess that's not what we're talking about. -
Because 17 years ago stainless was still hard to come by (here) I did the entire job in aluminized, 4 years ago I redid the intermediate section in 304, I had to cut everything to precision fit & then butt welded it all together. it will outlast the car. You will enjoy the same.....
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I blew right by the tank on the way to the back today so no resonator. I listened to a bunch of different exhaust systems on inter webs today and figure I’ll go without the resonator. If it ends up with to much drone it’ll be easy to add later on. Will post up some pics when done.
