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Having the same issue with a 96 gtp. Car came stock with evo steering. Of course someone replaced the pump and evo is unplugged. Has abs light on c1273 code present. Tried the 10k ohm resistor. Abs light goes away. But soon as it's driven 10mph abs light back on. Same code c1273. Any one else encounter this. Thanks again

The main issue you'll run into, and basically the same reason I abandoned this same idea for my Lumina is the fluting on the headlight lens. That's to distribute the original halogen lamp's beam pattern in a desirable way, to have projectors work properly you really need to sand that all down and re-polish the lens clear. Otherwise most of the benefit of the projector will be lost. I did see some people on other parts of the internet vacuum form lexan or composite material over OEM lens to create a clear cover, but that's outside of the scope of work I'm going to be capable of. After endless sanding on a test housing I had I threw in the towel, I think the miniquads are glass so that might even be more difficult. As for the legality, technically straying AT ALL from the DOT approved lighting that came on your car is illegal. I'd say its extremely unlikely anyone would ever pitch a fit about it unless your state/provenance/territory has laws around that for a safety inspection or, of course if your car is SO obnoxious that it gets noticed for that. And TBH modern OEM LED headlights on pickup trucks I find to be AT LEAST as obnoxious as some of the dumbest kids putting 6000k HIDs in factory housings on their cars back in the day so thats just where I stand on it.

You're thinking of HIDs in halogen housings without projectors.

Marvelous. Really, really bright yet not focused properly. A real disaster to meet in the oncoming lane. Massive, blinding glare. Completely illegal, definitely unsafe.

Trimmed down the shroud and test fit it. It does need to be trimmed more and pushed deeper in. I have a few options. I can either set the projector lens right up behind the glass, or I can set it back a little. I'm *thinking* as close to the lens as possible will give me the best output. Once I have the bulbs I can test both, but after I cut extra material from the lamp housing to move the projector towards the front (closer to the lens), I won't be able to undo it. I suppose I could do the test outside of the housing as well, just to see how this patterned lens affects the output. I'm also considering if I should paint the inner housing black or leave it chrome.

Yeah I need the Tbi connector really bad or it's gonna start leaking. The hard lines I am not using anymore. I am going to use rubber hose line. Someone on facebook in the fwd group we are in said auto parts stores used to sell them. But they are so hard to find. I wish dorman would make them. They make the elbows. I got two packs.

I've wanted to put projectors with HIDs on my Cutlass for a long time. I finally decided to try it. As far as I know, it's not been done before, if you know otherwise please tell me where I can see the results! There is a company that makes a whole new lamp assembly for the Camaro but it's a solid block of black plastic that I think looks hideous. I've found a bunch of threads about HIDs and projectors in other w-bodies, but nothing specifically for the Cutlass coupes which have unique problems to work around. The original OEM headlamps are two-piece glass assembles, the body and lens are both glass. Those are obviously not candidates for cutting open to install a projector. Newer replacements though have the same glass lens with a metal body, and these are what I'm working with. I bought a pair of 1.8" H1 projectors from eBay. They are the smallest I could find, I knew it was going to be a tight fit in the 2"x5" housing, but it turned out to be almost perfect. I'm still in the experimenting phase but 100% confident I can make it work. Here's a mock-up of the somewhat complete lamp. It's only held together with sticky-tack at this point, I did this to hold it together and test that there's enough space behind the lamps for the extra depth. I'm pretty sure they will fit without modifications to the car, at least on the drivers side. OEM glass assembly next to metal body with projector. Taking apart the lamp housing was not simple... Heat seems to have no effect on the adhesive used to hold these together. It's very soft and rubbery, heat did not soften it *or* make it tacky. Prying at the edges only resulted in chipping the glass. I ended up cutting a small slot in the metal with a Dremel that I could stick a screwdriver in and apply just enough pressure to slide in some plastic tools and work my way around until the glue peeled away. You can see that small cutout on the far left of the second image above. This projector has a high-low switch that opens the lowbeam cutoff flap. There's no room for that mechanism once mounted to the housing, so I'm going to permanently affix the cutoff flap in place for lowbeams, and either keep the stock highbeams or do the same retrofit for the highbeams but leave the flap out. I'm not sure how the stock glass lens will affect the light output. If neccessary, there are aftermarket lamp housings with less patterned glass. The lamp holder assembly with the built in left/right/up/down adjustment screws can be reused, a portion of it will need to be cut out pass the reflector body through. I need to get another set from the junkyard to experiment with but there hasn't been a Cutlass coupe there in years. There is a 1994 Camaro which has the same lamps, but do they also have the same mounting assembly? I've ordered a set of bulbs and ballasts to test these out, they won't be here until Friday. I still need to figure out the best method to mount the projector to the housing. I think the common method is just clumps of JB-Weld. I feel like I must be missing something, if it was this easy why hasn't it been done many times before?

You have no need for an additional cooling system for the trans. Wasted money, wasted effort.

Just my fat ass lol.

How much do you tow?

A bodies are 4 port too, so there's another avenue.

Yes that’s exactly what I was thinking when you say that. Thanks for confirming

No personal experience, but I doubt it will help a whole lot. Cooler should be better, but a lot more work, especially if you're already doing a fluid change. Might be worth seeing if it's part of the Black Friday sale. Can't hurt, unless you're low and hit it.

I know I'm far behind but any idea what the four T40 screws at the bottom should br torqued????

Has anyone used the transmission pan that ZZPerformance offers? I'm coming up on a trans fluid/filter change in the spring and thought this may be a good option to knock off some heat to the trans in the hot Texas heat. ZZPerformance 4t65e Aluminum Transmission Pan

W bodies have 4, N-L bodies only had 3.

What do you mean by ports?

I think Beretta used a 3 port. He needs a 4 port which W bodies used.

What years will work for you? I have some parts from a 1990 Chevrolet Beretta that had the 3.1L engine.

Hi, I am looking for this vacuum harness or the throttle body connector from any 2.8 or 3.1. But W-Body’s will help. If you can let me know if you got any I would appreciate it. I am in the process of rebuilding my harness because the plastic line is cracking badly. The connector at the throttle body is toast. I cannot locate one. Here is a photo of one intact.

Well aware of engine swapping a 1st gen w-body, been there done that! There is no comparison on L67 vs LS4 swap and nothing you do for an L67 is the same as an LS4. Don't know why you'd compare those two. OP: Here is a thread with details and pictures of the aluminum cradle swap(about half way through the thread I think). He used a 3800 but subframe will mount the same into the chassis. He obviously did a lot of additional work that you don't need to do to the suspension, but gives you an idea of what's needed to swap the cradle. IMO it's easier to swap cradles than hope you get the mounting proper height and engine squared since you can't use any of the original mounting provisions in the gen 1 subframe. But OP you'll need to figure out what works best for you, maybe fabbing mounts is 0 concern for you. Just remember you'll need to do mounts for both the engine and trans as the trans is shifted over .5-1 inch to the drivers side vs the original engine.

I’m aware, I have also owned an LS4 car. Its easy for people who have never done this kinda thing to talk about doing it…its not as easy as you think. Swapping that late model aluminum cradle into the 1st gen Lumina will be a galactic pain in the ass, but nevermind my opinion, I’ve only been doing this kinda stuff for 35 years.

BIG Difference between L67 and LS4. the L67 uses the same mounts as the gen 1 w-body(I'm not even sure what you had to modify as there shouldn't have been anything given you had a 4spd auto before) whereas the LS4 uses completely different mounting than the L67 and will require custom mounts and location to use the 1st gen subframe. OP. It's not actually that crazy to get the aluminum subframe into the 1st gen. It's been done a handful of times and is documented on this forum what needs to be done. you will need to drill a new hole in the front mounting spots of the subframe as well as you will most likely need to modify the passenger side strut tower for the alternator to fit.

I just swapped an L67/4T65E-HD into a 93 Z34. The donor car was a 2000 GTP, I had the entire car. I also considered swapping the cradles but it was going to be far more complicated than just making some minor modifications to the Z34’s cradle. It was a no brainer. Don’t waste your time.