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- Today
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turn signal stalk issues (no washer, no low speed wipers)
ron350 replied to y2kgtp's topic in FAQs and Technical Information
From your description the multi function switch is bad.- 1 reply
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I think 96 models were all electric cruse module and seam to have a high failure rate.
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Yeah, none of that is the case, checked all that some time ago. I shall investigate further this week. What an annoying flipping sound. One thing I will point out though is under inflated tires seemingly can be the cause of squealing during low speed tight turns. With Westlake tires anyway. I had no idea these things Max at 44 psi, although I only got 42 in them. I hadn't even checked the tire pressure since I bought them, July I think *ducks for cover*. When I discovered they were under inflated, I had thought that was my problem, or at least hoped so. At least squealing is gone though *weeeeeh weeeeeh*.
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No, it doesn't work at all. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
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Thanks for the info I’ll give it a try tonight. The clutch fork just flops around in there no matter if I pull on the case or not so wasn’t sure how it was causing trouble.
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It’s either electrical or vacuum related. I’d check for broken vac lines to start with. Check the ends carefully. Need to make sure your vac bottle is good as well. Does it try and engage but cutout or nothing st all?
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This trans is a pull-type clutch release arm, it uses a conventional fork arm to actuate the release bearing, the direction of the arm is the same as the old conventional mechanical linkage mechanisms, but the slave cylinder direction is reversed when compared to a typical hydraulic push type release bearing. One has to slide off the clutch fork from the release bearing, one gets at it thru the access hole in the casing, (that black plastic shield you see next to the slave cylinder location), when you *unclip* the fork from the bearing the case should separate, the release bearing is held in place to the clutch by a wedge collar that is snapped into the centre of the clutch assembly, one has to carefully separate the bearing from the collar with a screwdriver being careful to not break any of the tabs.
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Wheel bearing: grab the wheel at the 12 & 6 o'clock position try to rock the top of the wheel in while you try to rock the bottom out, and vice versa. Any movement is a bad bearing. CV: drive slow, tight circles in a parking lot, a bad cv will click or clunk.
- Yesterday
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Dave442 joined the community
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Started tearing into this last night. I got to the point where is should come apart and it seems the input shaft is stuck. I can separate the trans by about 1/4” from the block but it feels as though it’s trying to spring back in place. My service manual doesn’t mention anything about this. Anybody have any suggestions? It’s all still sitting on the subframe but I don’t think the subframe has to be removed from the assembly as you should be able to just remove the trans to change the clutch out right?
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I used to spin them by hand when they were off the car, most of the time you could spot a bad one. Other then shaking the wheel or spinning, how do you check a hub? There is no top to bottom play, that much I know. And again you check the CV shaft by yanking on it side to side?
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That's the first W-Body related "review" that was more or less respectful. I do not want to punch that guy in the face. In fact I'm curious to see if he puts that beautiful TGP back on it's throne.
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W-Body.com 2019 Calendar Submissions
redgrandprix replied to Imp558's topic in W-body For Sale/Trade
Ill have to grab some batterys and take the tgp backroading.. because the tags are expired Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk -
I can't make any sense of this. Are you dealing with a digital cluster or an analog gauge?
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Here's another recent one...
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hopefully I remember to send you some tomorrow.. ^^^this is good stuff 1 album dedicated to lifelong algae infested w-body's lol
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Lemme know!
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I don't know this model but the short (12 min.) 'review' may be of interest for GP owners. Hoovie's Garage on $2000 Grand Prix purchase:
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Thanks to MemphisMan, I learned that when changing the rear plugs and wires on the LQ1 cars, people will bend this lip that holds the rubber seal for the hood. Luckily, mine has not been tampered with.
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I wanted to match Mach 5's pic, it's not the best and prettiest picture or situation but it still gives me chills when I see it. There's something very cool about finding a car in it's worst state and literally dragging it out of the weeds. I hope you guys don't mind.
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Ok well that was a little obvious, though I didn't see the two brackets yesterday...lol...need to catch up on sleep.
- Last week
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Bump, still time to send some pictures
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The fans come on immediately after the engine starts, not when ignition is just in run. No SES light. The fans running after shut off only happened one time, hasn't done it since.
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I'd check that hub assembly. I know it's newer but the aftermarket ones aren't known for quality. Also, the cv shaft.
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And still runs great. Hopefully it was just a 18 year old wire going bad.....
