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  1. Today
  2. Purp Lumina

    Purple Chevrolet Lumina

    I have one actually. 1998 Lumina 55,000 miles
  3. Schurkey

    Washer fluid pump troubleshooting

    My much-older Lumina ('92) had a dead washer pump. No voltage to the pump, fuses and other wiring seemed OK. Discovered that the electrical signal to turn the washer pump "on" went through the wiper motor circuit board. The wiper motor board had a fault. And no replacement circuit boards available. Had to scavenge parts from the Treasure Yard. Things may be different, your vehicle is way newer than mine. Verify with the service manual set for your vehicle.
  4. Yesterday
  5. RangerRick

    Truck open swtich

    The switch is on the left side rear deck top of trunk lid the light in trunk goes out when lid is closed half way what does the other switch on lid do?
  6. gbabione

    Washer fluid pump troubleshooting

    Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum. I have a 2004 Monte Carlo ss. My windshield washer fluid pump is not working. I tried a new pump and multi-switch. Which wire is the ground in the pump connector? I want to see if it's a ground problem. Any other ideas?
  7. White93z34

    W-body Install Guides

    I sent Shaun the thread link they were hosted on his webspace - will have him check if they are still there.
  8. bravad

    W-body Install Guides

    Don't suppose anyone has the PDF for early Regals?
  9. Thanks to you both for the info. I’ll tackle this as I have time and will post an update. Wish me luck!
  10. Last week
  11. Its fairly accessible on a 3.1/2.8 if you pull the alternator and bracket and go that way
  12. You might consider a 40" flexible extension that chucks into a power drill to get a drill bit at the sensor body. Seeing as the easiest position to get at the sensor is thru the passenger side wheel opening (if you try from under the car the trans is literally in the way) one needs a small device to get in there to work with.
  13. Ok, thanks, I really appreciate your advice and experience with this!
  14. thats one way, to me its a last resort. I've used a dremel with drill bits chucked in it, picks, and pretty much any implement you can think to get purchase into the body of the thing, its miserable. Once you get the surely hard as a rock o ring out of the hole you remove one of the major things that will hold you up
  15. Oh man, I’m afraid of that. I’ll try to get a screw into it and rip it out. I guess the only other option is to drop the oil pan and go at it from the inside? That’s a job.
  16. ho boy, have fun with that. Been there a couple times. what usually happens is the sensor gets a crack and gets oil into it swelling the housing. I've drilled into the back of them and used a wood screw and a small pair of vice grips to rip it out, Its a total nightmare.
  17. The dia of the sensor body would allow the sensor to slide in & out without effort, it's the O-ring that would hold it in place. As long as one can get a grip on what's left to rotate it back & forth it will release.
  18. The shoulder has pretty much chipped away. Is the o-ring the only thing holding it in? Should it pop out no matter which way it’s turned?
  19. Hard to tell if the shoulder is still partially there from that photo angle. One would try to get a thin prybar between the shoulder & the block wall to attempt to shift it free. There is a neoprene O ring around the sensor body, that could be holding it in place.
  20. The pins are still sticking out.
  21. ooooops. How much of the original shoulder (butts up against the wall of the block) of the sensor is left?
  22. Uh oh. In an attempt to replace the crankshaft position sensor on my 1992 Cutlass Supreme 3.1L, the original sensor has disintegrated and become stuck in the block. There’s a little bit of the original plug left, but I can’t get the sensor to pop out. Any suggestions?
  23. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Intercooler is installed we had to do some fab work to make it dual pass. Blow off and wastegate installed, just finishing touches and it’s tuning time.
  24. I converted my 1990 TGP to Vacuum I've previously converted a 1989 TGP to Vacuum done it 2 different ways, the "right" way on the 1989 - Full OEM factory brakes with the correct firewall plate and 2 new rear brake lines. Be advised, this results in the location of the master being VERY close to the turbocharger - my idea was to use a N body master as its basically the same one just kicked up at a different angle. never got around to trying that you can re-use the front lines in all situations. and on my own 1990 I used a 4g F body booster and master, mounted to an aluminum plate I made bolted to where the PMIII used to mount You have to use the pushrod off the TGP and weld or otherwise attach it to the F body booster. I modified the front brake lines into a splitter and then made a line to go from the f body master to the splitter and then made a reducer of some sort for the rear line. Doing this is OK if doing a f body setup, NOT ok for a factory setup. understand the differences between F/R Split and Dual Diagonal brake systems and use extreme care to ensure all lines go to the proper places on their respective master cylinders. All this said I think both solutions are safer then using PMIII in the present era. It was a idea that was ahead of its time. Its full of single failure parts (that have been getting baked by a turbocharger for 30 years) that can leave you without brakes in the event of a failure - also parts are simply not available anymore
  25. Not an easy job to do........ the entire W body brake system is unique to the W body. No components transfer to or from any other carline. If one wants to convert from ABS to non-abs you're going to find yourself hand fabricating all 4 sets of lines to all 4 corners. The non ABS cars make use of 4 independent brake lines right off the master going to the 4 corners of the car, the ABS system doesn't follow this same procedure. There are 3 main lines off the ABS module, 2 to the front, 1 to the rear where at the back end of the car one will find a proportional splitter to feed the 2 rear calipers. The masters themselves are not interchangeable, one is dedicated for ABS one is dedicated for non ABS. The booster is another hurdle, the vacuum booster can be readily had but what it is fastened to is another story. As I stated in a prior thread one has to go to the effort to remove the heavy plate bracket that is part of the firewall that the ABS system, part of the A/C system & the steering rack column passes thru & go out & find a plate in a non ABS car such as this one in Jiggity's photo shows & pull it out to replace the one in your car. It's not a job for the faint hearted.
  26. Similar situation with brakes. I have a Cutlass with the same PM lll system. Looking to convert to standard vacuum but not sure how to do that. I have heard the early F Body Camaro vacuum brakes are compatible to swap.
  27. K&R

    2024 Olds Nationals

    Springfield is not far from me. I may go as a spectator.
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