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- Last week
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The door is fixed! The weekend's rain and a busy schedule on Sunday kept me from adjusting it, but the weather was nice today, so I made it a priority. The whole process took less than half an hour, including gathering tools. Taking things apart the second time went a lot easier since I knew what I was doing. I couldn't get the rod separated from the handle, so I took the handle off of the car, except for that, and then gave it a few turns raise the position of the 'nut' that attaches the rod to the handle. It only had to go up a couple of millimeters, and now it opens smoother than it ever did before. Now, it's time to go out and take a little celebratory ride. Tomorrow, I'll be driving it to work, weather permitting, so I can take it for its annual state inspection on the way home. The registration expires in a few days, and I need to get that in the mail.
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I found part 26049661 on a yard in Canada (below). I looked at the dorman 525022 part and one of the connections seems different. Two yellows on the one from the yard and only one on the dorman one. Does anyone have a picture or knowledge on which is correct for my 94 CSC with SWC? The one from the yard is going to be $260 Let me know please, really want to get this fixed!
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RandallTheVandal joined the community
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Is this too much trailing arm rust?
GranPrix replied to GranPrix's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
There was a mouse nest inside the mount. I removed the nest and fluid filmed it. Hopefully it lasts me the winter -
Robbie started following Looking for fender & hood, 1994 Grand Prix SE
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Nephew got into an accident with his green '94 GP SE, he's looking for a cheaper, used, alternative replacement. I can paint them to match, no problem. We're having a hard time finding anything around here in Quebec. We're in Montreal. Any leads?
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Is this too much trailing arm rust?
GranPrix replied to GranPrix's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
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Is this too much trailing arm rust?
94 olds vert replied to GranPrix's topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
I've seen worse than that. I would just spray it with fluid film and move on that will slow the rust down. I've seen these fail and usually they have way more rust than that. -
GranPrix started following PCV system Breather hose issues and Is this too much trailing arm rust?
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Is this too much trailing arm rust?
GranPrix posted a topic in Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
I bought a 95 grand prix sedan as my winter car. I was poking around with a screwdriver when I poked through my rear trailing arm where it mounts into the U body. Everywhere else on the mount seems solid. Its just below that little oval where it is rusty. Is this too dangerous to drive on for a winter before I get it fixed in the spring? -
Long shot but any chance you can pull the clock spring from this one?
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I just called them-out of stock unfortunately!
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So, the door handle arrived today, right on schedule, and despite eBay's fitment guide showing that it fits only coupes and not convertibles, it fit my ragtop like a glove. Installation took a little more than an hour, including time to figure out just what the hell I was doing. Surprisingly, my two-volume factory service manual does not include instructions for replacing the door handle. The only issue I'm having is getting it adjusted properly. Right now, it takes a couple of pulls on the handle to get the door open. I'm going to have to take everything back apart so I can get everything adjusted properly. I think what happened was, despite my best efforts, the nut at the top of the rod that operates the door latch got turned a few times while I was trying to free the old handle, leaving the rod too short. I won't be able to do anything about it tomorrow, because we'll be experiencing the fringes of a tropical storm off the Carolina coast. Sunday might be a better possibility. I'll keep you updated.
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Welcome to the site. These cars are getting older and parts are harder to find. A seat motor you may need to find a local yard that has one available
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I had to replace mine years ago on my 1994 CSC. Back then in the late 2000s they were readily available at the local part store. I did some searching and wasn't able to find much. Even new or used ones. It appears they are in stock here: https://www.jegs.com/i/Dorman-Products/326/525-022/10002/-1
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Attempting to diagnose a no horn and SWC not working issue on my 94 CSC I have landed on replacing the clock spring. Dorman part 525022 or GM part 26051659. Unfortunately, Dorman has been out of stock forever with no eta and the GM parts are discontinued. Does anyone have a good one they would sell or know where I could find one? Local yards and car-part.com are not giving any results either. Thanks!
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402GP joined the community
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Hi everyone, I have a 95 grandprix sedan as my daily driver/beater, and it has the 3100v6. When changing the thermostat, I broke the Breather hose that goes from the Intake Tubing after the MAF and plugs into the rear valve cover. I got one at a junkyard out of a 97 century. But the issue I am having is with the part that plugs into the rear valve cover, no matter how hard I push it into the valve cover, it doesn't click in or anything, it just sits in there loose.. I put some RTV on it to stop it from coming loose, but what is the permanent fix to this issue, is there some sort of grommet that sits in the valve cover? I am confused on what secures it in place.
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GranPrix joined the community
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Rich, Thanks for those insights. I'll be sure to keep them in mind when I install the new handle, hopefully this weekend. It's scheduled to be delivered tomorrow, but they're calling for rain on Saturday, so my first opportunity will likely be Sunday. I'm hoping the forecast is wrong and I can get it done Saturday. Knowing the fragility of those door handles, I've always tried to be gentle with them, but the driver's door got out of adjustment last spring and I found myself tugging on the handle harder than I should have to get the door open. I eventually figured out how to adjust the rods and things went back to working normally, but I guess the damage was already done by that point and it was only a matter of time before the thing gave way.
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I didn't have to physically bend the replacement but the way they should be installed will form the part to the contour of the door. Tighten the lower self threading nut about halfway down the door first then as you tighten the top one it should pull the handle into place. Then swap the lock over and the anti-theft clip if equipped. Also on the small piece that is riveted on that pivots freely at the bottom of the assembly, where it slides up and down on the other lever portion. Ive rounded that edge off with a file and smear some grease on it every once in awhile and its not broke since. Also its all in the way you open the door too, only pull enough to pop the door open, grab it somewhere else to pull on it.
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rmac1986 joined the community
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New member. Just found this forum. I was hoping someone could tell me why certain things for these cars are so hard to find. Does nobody make seats for them,(as in a whole seat). I haven't even been able to find the electric motor for mine anywhere.
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2-1Golf joined the community
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2004 Grand Prix, wont start, has no ignition power inside the car
94 olds vert replied to AL's topic in General
I would check your ground wire from the battery to the frame. I bet it is corroded. Remove some of the black insulation from the copper if it has green on it, it needs to be changed out. If the ground area where that wire is bolted to the frame is rusty that will need to cleaned. -
2004 Grand Prix, wont start, has no ignition power inside the car
litg5150 replied to AL's topic in General
I've changed the battery changed the alt changed the ignition switch and ignition control module..still nothing -
litg5150 joined the community
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2004 Grand Prix, wont start, has no ignition power inside the car
litg5150 replied to AL's topic in General
I have an 07 grand prix gt that will not crank I put the key in the ignition and turn to accessory and all my dash lights come on, and the moment I turn the key to crank the motor it kills everything ..it just shuts it all off -
So, I just found a thread in the Cutlass Supreme Convertible section that I wish I'd seen earlier. It is a pretty comprehensive list of parts interchanges between 'verts and coupes. It seems the door handles are identical. My door handle should arrive sometime between Thursday and next Monday, so we'll see for sure then. I'm hoping it will arrive on the earlier end of that time frame so I can install it this coming weekend. Here's the link:
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VinceJE joined the community
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Thanks for your input. I would expect an aftermarket part to have a slightly imperfect fit. That's just the nature of the beast. I've had some frustrating communications with various sellers, one of which simply referred me back to the eBay listing, apparently assuming I hadn't read it in its entirety. I also got into a lengthy text conversation with a rep at another site (I assume it was a human being, but you never can tell these days) who didn't even know where the door handles are located on these cars. Be that as it may, I'll give them credit for at least trying to be helpful, even if they just parroted what was on the product description, without adding any new or useful information. All that said, I think I've pretty well decided to order one off of eBay that has a gloss finish and a 10-year warranty, and is the same price as the paint-to-match units. The listing does not show that it fits the convertible, only the coupe, but I'm with you, Rich, I believe it should fit either, since the convertibles began life as coupes before their tops were chopped off. Question on the AutoZone handles--Did you have to bend it to give it more of a curve or straighten it to reduce the curvature? I'm guessing probably the former. I've also decided against the salvage handle, even if it does cost only a third as much, simply because of its age and likelihood of existing metal fatigue. As much as I enjoy picking parts off of junk cars, it just doesn't make much sense in this case.
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x2 on the AutoZone product, I got one from them as well. It really is hit or miss with these door handles. I actually had to bend mine to fit the contour of the door. Now that shouldn't be, but it is.
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Anything aftermarket is going to be hit or miss, I bought one from Autozone awhile back made in Taiwan and it seems better quality than some others in the past from Mexico or China. They still offer both sides. As far as coupe vs Vert handles they should be the same.
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So, Friday evening, I was out in the convertible, enjoying the relatively cool weather, and stopped at my favorite used bookstore. When I went to leave, my driver's door handle broke Fortunately, I could still get in the passenger side and open the driver's door from the inside. When I looked on Rock Auto's website, I found they only had the passenger side handle, so I then checked eBay. There are plenty of aftermarket handles available at prices ranging from about $46 to $56. The cheaper ones are all the same brand, Brock, and come with a one-year warranty. The more expensive ones have better warranties, but the fitment lists are inconsistent regarding whether the handles will fit the convertible. Some, mostly the cheaper Brock handles, which have a 'paint-to-match' finish, which I interpret to be just primer, say they will fit the convertible, but the more expensive ones, which are available in the appropriate gloss black finish, typically say they won't. So this begs the question: Are the door handles for W-body Cutlass Supreme coupes and convertibles the same or different? Or to put it another way, just how screwed am I? There's a Pull-A-Part yard about 40 minutes away that shows a '93 Cutlass Supreme coupe in inventory that's been on the yard since mid-July. I'm struggling with whether to go see if it has what I need. I'd be gambling the gas and a $2 gate fee to find out if a) the door handle is still on the car, and b) if it's broken or not. If it's intact, it would only cost me about $16, including the gate fee, but I'd also be buying 30 years of metal fatigue on a handle that would have a 30-day warranty. My gut tells me to pay the higher price and go for the brand new one. I welcome your thoughts