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Found 1,657 results

  1. I am turning this over to Jake - 94CutlassVert. Okay, here's the deal. Crazy K and I are researching and building a private database of convertibles. This database will consist of VINs, exterior, interior and top colors, options, original wheels, ect. So what we need from our convertible owners is your VIN (you are welcome to leave off the last 3 or 6 digits if you are uncomfortable with giving us the entire VIN, no one will be using this info except for us to find out what options your car originally came with via a GM parts department. I, or we, will be more than happy to send you this printout if you like!) Your car's info will not be given to ANYONE else. It will simply go on a spreadsheet format that I have created and the printouts will be kept in my files. Many classifieds websites encourage sellers to add the VIN so people may run a BatFax! type report so there's something to think about as well. Even better will be a clear photo of the door jamb sticker (located on driver's door) and SPID label (located in trunk on the spare tire cover.) Also, convertibles you see in the junkyard, on dealer lots, for sale, ect...If you are able to, take down the VIN for us, we can obtain the RPOs and build date from there. Please send a private message (it will be deleted after obtaining the info) to 94CutlassVert with your VIN, build date (both of which are located inside the door jamb, check you VIN to make sure the car's door hasn't been replaced some time in it's life, send both VINs if so), colors & photos. I'd like to keep this post unclutterd, so just a PM will do. Thank you!!
  2. I picked up a 1997 Chevy Lumina, in otherwise great condition, that had been struck by a Porsche (funny story). The driver side door has a reasonable amount of damage and needs to be replaced. I've been scoping out hollander and local salvage yards without much luck. Estimates for grabbing a door and having it repainted are in the vicinity of $700. If there are options I haven't considered I'd be grateful to hear them. The color code is grandma A121. Kindly, Fej
  3. My dad made the comment that i should grab a second car so im not feeling rushed when wrenching on the monte. I agreed. Been poking around and actually found two nice cars i actually like. 2001 regal gs Pros-clean as hell, most parts interchange with my monte, ive actually wanted a regal for a while, will make a good candidate for a regal 2-door conversion idea i had(hehehe) Cons-they have a price a lil high on it, previous body repair. 2008 impala ss Pros-5.3 , good color scheme(red/black), eeven cleaner than hell, decent price, would b an eventual ls4 donor for monte after car is beat up and the trans dies Cons-little interchange with monte, before mentioned trans weakness, more expensive parts Kinda leaning towards regal even tho the impala is a better deal
  4. This is my ride and recently toasted three speakers. Both rear and drivers door. Have replaced with Sony Xplod speakers but concerned the monsoon amp might do in this set. Any idea where the amp is located? Might bypass it and put in a new radio, my deck is loosing illumination! Mark Morgan
  5. Looking for a set of 91-93 cutlass coupe or convertible seat belts for the doors. The plastic belt retainer cover on the bottom of the door has ripped on both doors and I'd like to find ones in good condition and in charcoal. Also looking for door mounted speaker mounts with covers in charcoal as well. shipping is to 18704
  6. This morning I could not get my drivers side door handle to open the door. The handle works properly. But it seems like the lock portion is getting caught or rubbing against something. I had to pull the door handle kinda hard until the door finally opened. Any thoughts on how to make it loose like it use to. I did spray with WD40. But it stil gets caught. Open for ideas, thanks
  7. I've had a couple PMs about this topic over this spring and summer. Since most convertible owners are getting the cars out of the garages. This was a new piece of NOS weather stripping about a year ago. They just don't last. So save your money and don't buy those E-bay NOS convertible weather strips. Figured I'd show how to fix this problem and give a lot of info on the way. I know this has been done before. No one has really done a complete write up on it. These are 1993+ Camaro/Firebird front window weather strips. You can buy these new or pull them at a local yard. There are several clips that hold these in place. Just put a flat screw driver down in between the window and the door and pry up. They should come off really easy. I paid 3 dollars for TWO of these at the local yard. You have plenty of material to do the job. There are clips that used to hold it onto the F-body car. I removed these so they weren't in the way. I took a flat head screwdriver and pried up on them and they came off. There are six rivets on this piece of weather stripping. I drilled them out to remove what they were holding. There are three of those metal bars on the back of the weather stripping. I removed so they would not be in the way of the window. You will need to remove the B pillar trim. It's about 6 screws. Have junk in the trunk? Remove it. To remove the piece of trim below the weather stripping, you will need to go in the trunk. There are three 9mm nuts that attach it to the car. The last one is a stretch. Once that is off you have a much better look at what your dealing with. You will need to drill out those rivets. Roll down the window! You do not want to let the drill bit hit the glass. I tossed in a rag in between the window and rivet. Raining outside. Tossed it up were it needs to go. The length of the factory weather stripping. Measure twice and mark your mark twice. Then drill once. Make sure it's in the right spot. You can see I have some rubber remaining in my drilled holes. I made sure I cleaned that out before I installed. That way you have a really nice fit and finish. Time for the pop rivet gun! Then pop in your new rivets. Now it's time to put the B pillar and trim back on. Old piece. New piece. And enjoy your new clean weather stripping. It looks a lot better than the old stuff.
  8. Ok, I am cleaning out the garage and basement, and just want these parts gone. I am open to all offers. If you make an offer, shipping will be calculated after. OEM GM 3.4L intake manifold gaskets Convertible top switch Oldsmobile alero/intrigue key cyl L67 supercharger coupler GM 6 disc ch changer magazines 2001 Grand Prix Dealer brochure LTZ/Z34 center cap 1st Gen Seat Belt Extender Headlight/HUD Switch OEM GM Z34 badges GM 10 disc changers. 1 - 97, 1 - 94. 2 door door handles inner parts PN found on them Gentex Mirror 267 Donnelly with map lights G6 mirror And for a really rare one, an Add-on On-Star attachment on a GNTX-177
  9. Hey guys new to the forum. I have a 92 four door 3.1 lumina cream puff lol....it's pretty solid but the trans seems to not step down when slowing down. Hard for me to explain but let say I'm driving 40 mph then come up to a stop sign ect. After I stop its like in neutral...if I press the gas hard enough it will kinda slam into gear. Or if I'm driving and come up to a stop sign ect stop manually put it into netural then to drive works every time. Just extremely annoying.
  10. So this door handle chromer in the Citation X-11 group on Facebook (not much further explanation needed really...) is telling me that there were 12 TGPs actually sold in Canada and they were available through 1991 instead of the GTP. Mind you, this is the same guy that says the THM-125 3 speed used in the Grand Prix was fully electronic. Also, the Corsica came with 5x115 hubs in front and 5x100 hubs in the rear. We got to talking TGPs because he bought the drivetrain from one. He lives in Canada. It's so funny that I had to share. Total door handle chromer - a person that thinks they know everything when in reality doesn't know half as much as they think they do.
  11. 92 Cutlass Supreme needs some rear struts, and I know KYB's are favorites around here, but they are very expensive. Can pick up two Monroe OE Spectrum(Sensatrac) struts for 28.99 each shipped. The Monroe strut mate mounting kit 902941 Napa branded for $17.00 each shipped. Two complete rear struts with all new parts for $92 to my door sounds like a good deal to me. Just have to assemble the strut mate kit, and it will be a fully assembled ready to mount strut. What you guys think? I know KYB has a good reputation, but money is talking.
  12. MY 1989 Oldsmobile Cutlass is f or sale, i am asking $4000 OBO. This vehicle has 58,519 miles. it has only had 3 owners and has been garage kept for the majority of its life time. There is 0 rust to be found on this vehicle. It is a 5 speed manual (very odd ball for this type of car) There is minor work to be done no immediate fixes: minor dent on side of passenger door, middle arm rest leather cracked, hood is rock chipped. other than that the vehicle gets great gas mileage on the high way and is a smooth riding car. I live in Piqua, Ohio and with the purchase of this car i will have it buffed, waxed, and detailed.
  13. Hey all, my door is making that annoying creaking sound when I open it (94 cutlass supreme), does anyone know if anyone still makes the door check valve? Don't see it on Rockauto and the dealer definitely doesn't have one. Is it the same on later model W's? Or am I stuck with raiding junkyard cars?
  14. I have 3 used GSX badges from a GS we scrapped. There are 2 door emblems and 1 smaller trunk emblem. The black could use a touch-up and they could use a buff job. Looking to get around $50 for them as long as you're not going to flip them. Otherwise, I would like $100. I might clean them up by polishing the chrome, painting them black and taking the black off the chrome.
  15. I found a actuator on JCwhittney, and was wondering your thoughts if it's worth buying it or try to rebuild it. http://www.jcwhitney.com/replacement-direct-fit-door-lock-actuator-brand-new/p3038905.jcwx?filterid=d12060y1994g20u0j1 thanks for the input
  16. My mother's 98 Lumina LS, all the lights turn on, but the Lights for the Guages, Fuel, RPM, Speedometer, And Temp arnt comming on, went ahead and serviced the 3 fuse boxes and replaced all the fuses and cleaned all the terminals, replaced all the bulbs in all the sockets, in the cluster, A/C controller, and door switches. Can't figured out what's making the lights not come on. What's left to check? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  17. Fiberglass nose, with backbone already installed. $500.00 Hood, cutout for engine mounted scoop. $200.00 Doors, no hardware or lexan. $500.00 Switched to all carbon fiber, was saving for an emergency, but running out of space.
  18. So I recently acquired Luminapower92s Maui blue Z34 and am in the process of putting the interior back together and j/y around here have apparently ran out of early 90s 2 door w-bodies to pilfer parts from, specifically luminas. So here is what I am currently after at the moment: Gray carpet in decent shape Center console (grey) Ill add more as I need it, but these are the essentials I need to get the interior back together. TIA
  19. Just got my driverside window motor, how hard is the install? Once more this is new territory. Cant remember I thought I read on here that there riveted in the door?
  20. 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door. So, I open my passenger side door and the fuse panel on the dashboard is exposed, the piece of cardboard that have been glued on, fell off. Not my doing, but the previous owners. I discover the following fuse/wire issue. Does anyone have any idea why someone would do this? My gut is telling me this isn't safe, but I'm worried that if I disconnect it, my car won't start or something catastrophic will happen. Those wires are hooked into the only 25amp fuses on that particular panel. The wires run down into the dash and I can't see where they go from there. Thanks in advance for any information/suggestions/guesses.
  21. Hi Good people. I'm new to this. See what I can learn and teach what I know . At this time I had 3 Gp a 94 se 2door a 95 gtp 2 door and a 96 gtp 2 door all white. My 94 I had the longest. I put in a later 3.4 ohv motor and been driving it about two years. My 95 got from a kid who needed to sell because it was not running and he was moving and needed it gone.Runs good now but needs work. 96 I just got Was sold for scrap because of broken door handles and the owner father didn't like her racing it.Its the cleanest one of the three. Leather seat are bad but it runs like new and drives great. Got to get to sleep now will check back soon.Happy motoring to all:dance:
  22. Hey Everyone, New member here but not car Forums...My nephew just got his Grandma's Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1997 Anniversary 4 door...3.1 lire and just gone over by a mechanic so it'll be safe once the Neph get's his license in a few months... I hope to learn and hopefully share here...it will be a bit of a re-learning curve as I have more experience with the newer GM products and will have to wake up the brain cells to how GM used to be again... Bill
  23. Hi all. This message is for the members in the Toronto and Durham areas. I just came back from the you-pick yard at Standard Auto Wreckers in north Toronto. There is a 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix in the you-pick yard that is fairly intact. It has a 3.1 motor and a automatic in it. I took a few interior parts from it and the LH / RH door handles. Get there before the idiots get at it.
  24. I can't seem to make the 'search' work, so I'm asking for a way to make my door hinge quiet--passenger side makes a loud clunk-cluck whenever I open or close the door. It is not either of the hinges making the racket, its the door-tensioner spring-thing near the bottom hinge. Driver's side is nice and quiet but the pass. side is loud and obnixious. Must the door panel come off? Is that a hard job? I have broken many plastic pieces when taking off door panels. Suggestions? BTW, its a '94 Cutlass Convert.
  25. Hi everyone. I have a '92 Cutlass Convertible. Late last year the battery began getting weak. After recharging a couple times, the battery finally wouldn't even hold a charge - that was late-January. The battery was almost five years old and had a useful life, so I bought a new one. No problems...until just a few days ago. I don't drive the Cutlass everyday as we have two other vehicles, so after a couple days of sitting, the car cranked slowly for a second before starting. Obviously, the new battery was getting weak! There are no obvious signs of a parasitic leak (no hood or truck light stuck on, no interior lights, etc.). I did a parasitic drain test today with my multimeter. At first, I was running around 1.50 amps. I disconnected the cables to the driver's side keyhole light and the seat belt connectors and it dropped to around .77 amps. Here's what's strange: opening and closing the door would give me different readings. Sometimes it was around .77 amps, then other times it was around .01 amps. I figured the switch in the door jamb might be bad, so I cleaned it up real good. Still, I'm getting around .75 amps most of the time, but sometimes .01 amps, changing as I open and close the door. Do you think the door jamb switch is bad? There doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong if it's clean - it's a simple switch. Any other ideas on what's causing the intermittent drain? If I pull the ELEC and CTSY fuses, I get .01 amps all the time. Thanks.
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