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Found 1,337 results

  1. The Haynes manual for my 1997 Lumina describes a secondary procedure for bleeding the brakes, and I don't understand it's purpose. 1) After the first bleeding process is complete, and the pedal feels soft, perform the following warning light test five times without touching the brake pedal. Then repeat the bleeding procedure. Warning light procedure: 1) Turn car on. 2) Watch ABS warning light for ten seconds. 3) If the warning light turns off after three seconds turn the car off. 4) Repeat five times, and then bleed the brakes again. Why is the secondary bleeding procedure necessary? Kindly, Fej
  2. I have a 93 regal with ABS I just replaced the brake lines and rear calipers in. I read on-line there is a specific procedure to bleed the brakes/abs system when the master cylinder runs dry. If anybody could tell what that is for my car it would be appreciated. Also on the replacement calipers it said I must adjust the parking brake or damage could occur. Are they talking about adjusting the parking brake at the equalizer or is there a separate procedure to do this? Thanks in advance!
  3. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  4. The buick has been doing some interesting things when it is wet outside. I noticed this last November, but the car sat for a good chunk of winter, and the problem has not self resolved . Sorry for the long post, but here it goes: With the brakes not applied, it seems to surge. This happens when the car is cold and has sat overnight in high humidity. Understandably, the surge is even worse when the idle is high right after a cold start (it is enough to shift into second). When the brakes are applied, it behaves normally. My first thought was the brake booster is leaking a little vacuum when not applied. I suspected that that is not the issue because there was no air sound and it was very intermittent. I have a switch that turns off the tcc by grounding the brake switch input at the pcm, so I used that to test my suspicions, and sure enough, the brake application itself is not the issue, it is just the pcm thinking the brakes are on that makes it behave. Like I said, the car got to sit out the winter months, so... fast forward to today: I was finally able to catch it in the act on tunerpro. I tried multiple times before but sometimes it would do it only for a few braking cycles, so by the time the laptop was on, it was behaving, or at least so it seemed . So here is the link to the xdls from my trip to work today: Two files, one on my street just showing the behavior at idle only, the other is the rest of my 22 mile trip. The tps signal is what I can see causing the surge. This tps is about a year and a half old. I replaced the connector at that time too. The fact that the brake switch signal changes the tps makes me think that the issue is not in the tps itself, but rather at the pcm side. The closed tps voltage is 0.57. It jumps up to 0.63 or 0.61, sometimes alternating, as soon as the brake is not applied. This happens with either the brakes actually being used or me using the switch to ground the brake switch signal. Two things I noticed: -The behavior slowly got better as the trip went on (towards the end the voltage only jumped to 0.59, and not at all at the very end). -The pcm tried to learn the 0.61 as the 0% throttle position (but pretty sure engine still surged a little), but I would burst its bubble every time I hit the brakes and dropped the voltage back to 0.57. I am not super well versed in tunerpro and calibration, so I could be missing something important. I am suspecting condensation in the pcm or the wiring next to it, because the engine heat could be burning it off. Is that an idea to chase? I have thought about making it waterproof somehow to try and eliminate that.
  5. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  6. Ok I have a 99 Lumina 9C3 and it's brake time. What other W body rotors will swap right onto my car? Reason why I'm asking is it will allow me to find out if I can take advantage of another cars rotor upgrade package. Car has the 9c3 brake package (4wheel disc).
  7. I was trying to tune the ECU with Tuner Pro and I came across a launch control portion of the code. How does this work in real life? Hold the brake and raise the RPM, then let it go?
  8. So these came on my car when I bought it and as luck might have it, my Dad decided to buy some new ones for my mom's GP, so I am getting her stock set. The tail lights are on the car and are in great shape, I am asking $90 plus shipping and paypal fees, I will have mine off this week, or this weekend. I am firm on the price as they are in great shape. They are these ones. I will get pictures up by tonight.
  9. Just replaced the Steering Wheel accessory switch 6 months ago, yesterday the Brake lights stopped working, Turn signals, and indicators on the cluster for them, brake light in back glass still works, fuses are all fine. before I switch it out again just wanting to verify more than likely it's a faulty switch, thanks ahead of time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Hi. Today I started bleeding the brakes with my brother-in-law, after installing these days a new precharged accumulator. Started like its described in the haynes repair manual at the right front brake - all good. Then started bleeding on the right front brake. ( regularly checked the fluid level) But after approximately 15 minutes of bleeding, there is still air in the hose ? What could that be !? Currently Im pretty frusted with the brake problem.
  11. Here is an interesting one... I live in Buffalo and we got a foot of snow last night. I come back home and notice green water on the driveway. I was completely confused as I don't have any green fluids in my car. After further inspection, the water is dripping down off the exhaust pipe before the gas tank. There are no brake or gas lines near that spot and the colors don't match those fluids anyways. The only thing I could dig up is Cr2O3 which is chromium oxide which can form on stainless steels in furnaces that have poor intake sealing. Its the only thing plausible I can come up with. Apparently I'm the first person on the internet to experience this as google comes up empty. Anyone else have green water coming off their exhaust pipes?
  12. Sorry that this is a bit long winded... I have spent some time lurking and reading the great info on this site. The search function is pretty nice and I try and use it before I ask a question that has been asked 100's of times before. I do have a specific question about a 90 Regal with a 3.1L. I have read the intake manifold gasket material changed over the years. Some engines were equipped with metal/rubber gaskets while others had a plastic type gasket. The plastic gasket is prone to fail. As I understand it, a symptom of a blown intake gasket is frothy peanut buttery goo under the oil fill or radiator cap. Mine does not have that so I believe that for now the gasket is intact. Here's the question, should I believe I have a metal gasket or tear it down and replace it? The car was bought new then parked in 2005 with about 168k. It's been sitting for nearly 10 years. I never tried to start it during that time but have recently decided to see if I could but it back in service. I have rotated the engine and it moves freely. Knowing that all the systems (fuel, brake, tranny, cooling,electrical) need attention should I go ahead and replace the intake manifold gaskets too? I have the plenum and many ancillary parts removed. The intake is exposed. I found a couple of YouTube videos plus I have the factory service manual. It's not outside my skill set but right now I have the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" mentality. Pro's/con's?? Thanks! Oh, the power steering pump is a leaker but I'll save that for later:)
  13. Hi ! I know it´s maybe a silly question, but I need to know it: Is the diaphragm from the PM III accumulator in direct contact with brake fluid ? Nearly every supplier here wont send me an accumulator because they say the diaphragm is not compatible with brake fluid and will be destroyd immediately !? to find the right accumulator is an unbelievable challenge here. best regards from germany HEMI
  14. Finally found a good '96 MC donor in the junkyard, and I completed the spindle/brake upgrade I've been contemplating for the last year and a half on my '92 GTP over the weekend. Pain in the ass, but a noticeable improvement going from 10.5" to 11.25". Now that the groundwork is laid, what's the story on the Camaro caliper upgrade? Just need the caliper and bracket from a '99, and redrill & tap the bracket for W bolts, and use 13" rotors?
  15. 94 Cutlass convertible with 3.4L DOHC has been down a month, took weeks to get all the parts, and many hours of back-breaking work later, it's all back together. ...but it won't start. What caused it to die in the first place is the FPR went bad and it flooded everything full of fuel. Made a thread about it here: Went ahead and replaced spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, plug wires, plugs, oil manifold gasket, and lower intake manifold gasket while I was at it. Back to the problem: I had checked the fuel pressure before I put it back together. Ohm'd the injectors, all the same at 12.4-ohms. Just over 40psi with the pump running, nothing dripping out of any injectors, nothing coming out of the FPR vacuum line. I thought that part was fine. I noticed now the fuel pressure bleeds off pretty quick and then slows down at 10psi. Weird. What would cause this, if FPR doesn't leak? Usually means leaky injectors in my experience, but no fuel came out of them when I tested it earlier. Wish I'd checked pressure bleed off time when I had the fuel rail loose, but either I didn't think of it or it seemed normal enough I didn't notice. It kind of acts like it wants to start when I crank it, but it doesn't. I noticed a little bit of smoke underhood. Not sure where it's coming from, just like a light mist of smoke everywhere. Also, cranking sounds kind of weird. More whiney. Is it possible fuel getting in a cylinder could have made it jump time, like if it had been fuel hydrolocked and I didn't realize it? I take it this would show on a compression tester? I guess I'd need some kind of DOHC adapter to get a compression tester to fit. Is there any that is an ideal length for the 3.4 DOHC? I'm so frustrated and depressed. Sadly, this might be the end of the line for the car. I may have to junk it or sell it cheap and just buy something else. We were going to sell the car in the next year anyway, but I was hoping I could keep it running till we find something else. Oh well.
  16. Hi. My brakes are since I got the Regal pretty sluggish. I don´t no if this is normal for the anti lock system but its annoying. Issue: When I am braking you can hear the anti lock pump (slow driving on my yard) and the the car isn´t braking as fast as it should. Not like other cars, it needs approximately 0,5 sec till you feel that the brakes grap and the car slows down. --------------------------------------------------------- Should I first bleed the brake system ? New discs with new brake discs are ordered. Hope anybody can help me ? greetings HEMI
  17. I put this in General because it applies to any metal part that's looking crusty. The method is simplicity itself. I have a good, hard chisel about six inches long, and I use this to tap off anything that will come off the part. I scratch with a pointy file for places where the chisel won't fit. Then I brush on old diesel engine oil and leave it for a few hours. I think the chemicals in the oil etch into the metal of the part, but I'm just guessing here. Then get some rags and polish off the oil. The attached pictures show the results. I don't have a "before" picture of the caliper, but it looked pretty grim. It doesn't take too long on a brake set up, maybe an hour or depends on how good a finish you want. The finished product is a pleasure to look at, and should rust more slowly afterwards. I didn't use any sandpaper or the like, just the tapping with the chisel.
  18. I need to put new rotors on my 94 Cutlass Supreme. The bolts holding the brake caliper bracket on take some kind of large star shaped socket it looks like. Can someone tell me exactly what size/type it is? Thanks, Vince
  19. Well, I'm nearly there with the braking system on the 91 Regal. Today I managed to turn all four bleed valves on the calipers. The method was to hit each valve with some MIG weld, wait until completely cool, then get the grips on. Someone had been at them all at some point, all the hexagons were a bit chewed up. To render the braking system fully serviceable, I now need to check the bolts which fix the flexible brake hoses to the calipers. Do these usually turn without difficulty, or might they snap? Any advice most welcome on this, because if I manage to turn all four hose bolts.........then I'VE WON!!!!!!!!!! Cheers!
  20. I've been going through search for an hour, but didn't find what I was looking for. On a 91 Regal, I've had the rear calipers off to check them out. The handbrake lever on the right side was stiff and reluctant to return, and some bolts were very tight, but everything's fine now after much cleaning and grunting .. What I need to know is the order of what to do after getting the pistons screwed all the way down, pads put back in and the calipers remounted on the car. Do I firstly have to press the main brake pedal to move the pistons out so the pads touch the rotor, or should I operate the parking brake mechanism first to achieve this? Or do I ratchet the parking brake actuating levers by hand until the pads touch the rotors? I've seen some posts which mention having to use the parking brake regularly to maintain the correct adjustment of the pistons, so I suspect it should be parking brake first to set the pads up up against the rotors. I got the parking brake cables ready for the final adjustment after everything else has been done. Cheers!
  21. Grasping at straws on this one here, so any help is greatly appreciated. My '99 Lumina LTZ is driving me nuts. So, here it is: it has rolling idle (between 500 -800) it almost sounds like a diesel loping. This is not consistent however, sometimes it will idle smoothly at 1000 or so. But, when its doing it there is this loud sucking sound like it just cannot get enough air. I thought maybe there was an issue with the air box, so I disconnected it from the tube and no difference. The sound almost reminds me of a cammed motor. It also has P0102 code for MAF. However the MAF has been replaced. Also it has code for rear O2 sensor as the cat and silencer have been removed by previous owner. But, one point in time after this was done the car ran fine, so I don't know that it has anything to do with the current problem, or if maybe it is exacerbating the problem. From what I understand, code means that the MAF is sensing less air than the O2 sensor or something, which made me think the motor was getting air from some other source. So, I did a an air leak test with brake cleaner and got absolutely nothing. I sprayed the stuff everywhere, and didnt get a single rev. Oh, and also replaced UIM gasket thinking that might be the source. Going crazy trying to figure this one out, please someone, anyone, help me. Thanks ahead of time to anyone willing to help guide me on this one.
  22. Has anyone changed rear brake lines on a 99 Buick Regal. The coiled line on the leaft rear over the crossmember has a pin size hole. Very rusted. Any imput as to how to go about this fox would be greatly appreciated.
  23. Blew a line on my 1999 Buick Regal GS about 2 weeks ago. Well yesterday I got under the car and found out all the lines are looking bad. I want to replace them all. I did track down the line that blew goes to the RF wheel. My questions are: 1) Does anyone know if there is a routing path for them? 2) The brakelines connects to some electrical box from the reservoir and they have flexible braided lines. What is this? 3) Can I cut the line where the braided line runs behind the engine and flare it so I can keep the braided line part? 4) Is there rubber lines with the car? I check out and I couldnt see any. Not sure if any are hidden. Is there anything else I should know? I do know the bleeding procedure is RR, LF, LR, RF. I also cant stand how all the lines inter tangle to this electrical box.
  24. Obviously this sound is associated with a warped rotor, usually due to a hung caliper. Before the June meet I did a rotor and pads, the caliper was moving freely. After a couple weeks the sound returned so I took it apart, rotor doesn't appear to be warped when on a flat surface so I put it back together and no noise for a couple days. Last weekend I did pads again, a new rotor, honed and rebuilt the caliper (which is still moving freely) and a couple days later my familier thumping returned. Today I got new slides and hardware to put in, (one of the old clips is less than perfect). Anybody have a suggestion as to what else may cause this?
  25. Hi Guys! On the beginning I have to say I'm from Poland that's why I'm looking for a help in US. My Powermaster III in Buick Regal from 1991 is dead I think. This mastercylinder leask from couple weaks, and now when I push the brake pedal it's bard as hell. I belive the is no option, especially in Europe to rebuild that powermaster because no one know this pump. Anyway I want to ask You can i find any rebuild PMIII in US with costs are lower than 1000$? Because this price is tooooo high for me. Maybe any one of You have this pump to sell? Please help me, because if I can fix it I have to sell this car. P.S. sorry for my bad english best regards
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