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Found 388 results

  1. For anyone not aware, I had bought a TGP in October, 2013 which had a few minor needs. I was chipping away at small projects. I bought a parts car a couple months ago. On July 21, 2014, my TGP burned out due to a PMIII accumulator failure. So now the parts car has become the fixer-upper. So I will update this tread as I finish little projects. It's not in horrible condition. I may sell it soon, as I found one with lower mileage that I might pick up. Here are some pics from when I brought it home : The closer one is the one that burned, the one towards the left is the one I have still.
  2. I'm starting this topic in the hope that we can get a sticky put up with different dyno charts for different powertrain/modification combo's. The catalyst for this was Aaron's 218whp dyno run...............3 threads later (all of 4+ pages) and yet I STILL HAVEN'T SEEN THE DAMN CHART So. What I would like is for people to post W Body (or other words swappable) charts, AND a list of EXACTLY what mods were done to the car at the time. These charts will be useful (if we get enough) to see what mod combos do what, and how much boost (for the TGP guys) will net how much power etc. Plus you can pick shiftpoints In any event: I WANT TO SEE THE DAMN CHART FOR AARON'S OLD Z34 !!!!!
  3. 92 Cutlass Supreme needs some rear struts, and I know KYB's are favorites around here, but they are very expensive. Can pick up two Monroe OE Spectrum(Sensatrac) struts for 28.99 each shipped. The Monroe strut mate mounting kit 902941 Napa branded for $17.00 each shipped. Two complete rear struts with all new parts for $92 to my door sounds like a good deal to me. Just have to assemble the strut mate kit, and it will be a fully assembled ready to mount strut. What you guys think? I know KYB has a good reputation, but money is talking.
  4. I can swing a wrench as good as any you, just not a lot of (or make that none) experience with removing or dismantling major engine components. I am schmott though. Not sure if it's better to rebuild or just buy (I'm in NJ). No way to really pick up an engine if I bought one, so would need it delivered in that event. I did a number on mine. Overflushed, waited too long to change gaskets. Low oil pressure (intermittent, particularly when idling), noisy, lifters etc. Generally makes noise only after heating up, sitting in traffic (not long). But after putting 10w40, it just seems to have goteen worse. I guess a lot of this could be on account of crud finding it's way into narrow passageways. Or I should be so lucky. I put Pennz HM 1040 upon recommendation. I think it made the situation worse not better (which could make sense if passageways were already restricted I guess). Liked using it for short runs, but that's not even much of a possibility anymore. Unless I go back to 10w30. And maybe some MM oil? I'm mainly concerned w/the lower part of the engine (except for the gaskets). Could find a 500$ engine somewhere, but how to get it here, etc. Oh, it's not a w, but rather a 2001 Venture. Don't hate me please. Looking to buy something else for now, this Le Sabre about 90 minutes away looks so nice. Am torn between fixing or buying. I will eventually fix the Venture, but later or sooner.
  5. Gibby

    LQ1 drag car?

    Hello all, I recently lost my L67 drag car, it decided to implode at 7000 rpm. Before you ask me what I was thinking, it was fully balanced and had an SFI balancer on it... anyways it is toast. I found a straight, low mile grand prix with an LQ1. I was going to pick it up do as much weight reduction as I can and use it as a bracket racing car, 13.xx times would be cool, but the point is for it to be reliable and consistent. I guess my question is, am I crazy for wanting to do this? Will the LQ1 put up with the constant abuse if I keep up on maintenance?? With weight reduction, (all interior, and everything else I dont need) will the transmission hold up (automatic)? What are your thoughts?
  6. would a 440-T4 from a lesabre t type be plug and play with my tgp? i thoughts are possible try and pick this transmission up for cheapish and beef it up to swap into the tgp. any info would be much appreciated! thanks in advance.
  7. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  8. Hi all. This message is for the members in the Toronto and Durham areas. I just came back from the you-pick yard at Standard Auto Wreckers in north Toronto. There is a 1996 Pontiac Grand Prix in the you-pick yard that is fairly intact. It has a 3.1 motor and a automatic in it. I took a few interior parts from it and the LH / RH door handles. Get there before the idiots get at it.
  9. What size are the two lower bolts on the rear shocks on a 96 Grand Prix? Getting ready to change them out. Going to pick up the shocks and want to make sure I have a socket/wrench to get the bolts out. Changed a set of these before and I don't remember if I had to borrow a wrench or if I had one. Thanks in advance.
  10. vmax

    oil cooler

    Have 90 gpt ... I restored the oil filter cooler adapter...bought new hoses and such. Now I had a brain fart because I procrastinated. Anyone have a quick pick of the way the hoses go? I think the T junctionwheelchair threw me off. Tks ahead of time for any info. Might be done some day...could use the Brian.
  11. 1990lumi

    motor swap

    how hard would it to be to put my 90 lumina 3.1l motor into a 91 z34 shell because i can pick up a clean car no motor/tranny for 400$ and i figure it might be easier then fixing mine up and swapping all the body panels it as simple as pull and drop with the wiring harness and and the control modules
  12. I recently purchased an original set of 4 5 spoke rims for $300 plus tax. Apparently I have a choice between the silver and chrome finish. Which should I pick? Which looks the best?
  13. Looks complete, the pic was taken yesterday.
  14. Hey, kids! Meant to get going on this sooner, but it's better than the 4 or 5 month pause from last time. Anyway, time to pick out a date for a Herrick Lake meet. I know a few people at the last meet said June would be a bit tight for them, so how about May 31st? EDIT: May 31st it is. Official thread: **Please bring $5 to contribute towards the cost of food and supplies, which I will provide**
  15. I just did a 97 wiring harness swap into my 96 Gtp. And now I'm getting a slight backfiring through the intake at anything over half throttle, it won't shift into 3rd or 4th. And won't go any higher then 65mph. And I also can't move my electric seat anymore and have no blower motor for heat. I have all my gauges and my radio work still. It also doesn't rev over 4500rpm Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
  16. Hi all! I just recently drove 2200 miles round trip to pick up my 95 cutlass. I live in jefferson city missouri and bought the car off ebay in baltimore maryland for a mere 629.99!! it only has 106k original miles, but it has sat on a repo/impound lot for 8 years!!! with the back window busted out. yea! the back window was busted out for all this time. needless to say I have a huge mold/mildew problem (gross) I have since stripped the trunk interior out-down to bare metal! I have also taken the interior totally out from the carpet to the dash! the carpet was absolutely rotten along with the back seats. what kills me is that the front seats were in really nice condition but the mildew/mold has gotten them anyway. So are there any companies that remake the carpet for our cars? also as far as replacing the interior can I get a donor hardtop car and swap it? what does and doesnt cross?
  17. Hi guys heading to the yard for a monte bar and I cannot remember or find the size to the large bolts at the ends of the bar. Also going to pick up a few mounting tabs that usually rust off on cars up north and wanted to know if there are different sizes.
  18. Found a cutlass convert in the springfield mo picknpull 1g3wt32x8sd346211 black on black on black with a 3.4 dohc couldnt find da thread so i started my own
  19. SO, here we are, after throwing money into brakes (Have Pics, will post once I find how to get them off my phone) new rad, tune up, tires, and pretty well everything I needed to get her roadworthy again, she keeps dieing intermittently. Events are as follows First time it happened, needed a new Ignition coil. worked great for a while. one morning, it failed again, replaced the other two coils with ones from the same brand, although they do not look the same. They are BDW Coils. One of the new coils (From attempt 2) failed after a day, got new coil, she sang. Coming home from work one afternoon, I got a check engine light. drove it to my in-laws place to go pick something up on my way, and it dies. Hit coils, seemed to work, dies right away, let it sit, starts fine, drive it up block back to the in-laws, get a scanner. Scanner reports a P1071 Bank one lean code. run it for an hour, no problems, clear the code, drive home, life seems okay. drove for an hour today, and it died, no codes, no nothing. Started instantly back up, drove home again, prefectly okay. I don't know what to check next. 3800 Series 2
  20. Please select which date works for you. If more than one date works for you, then select as many as apply. If all work, then please select all. This poll will close 1 week from today, June 24th.
  21. Pick a location that you would like to go to. This is also a multiple choice poll. Select as many as you want. If it doesn't matter and you will be able to attend no matter where we go, select all. (If we have a tie, we will have a vote-off). Note: This poll will expire in one week, on June 26th.
  22. 95regal

    regal antenna

    are there any inexpensive power or short fixed antennas that would work on a 95 regal coupe and pick up hd radio?
  23. hello, you may have seen I posted a while back about a lim gasket repair I was doing. I foolishly did just that without doing a compression test or checking for head gasket leaks because a mechanic had diagnosed it as the lim gasket. After getting everything up and running, there was still massive pressure building in the cooling system and exhaust fumes coming out the radiator so it became pretty obvious I had bad heads/head gaskets as well. So, I tore everything back down and brought the heads to a machine shop, and this is where I have questions. I've never used a machine shops services before so I wasn't exactly sure what to expect but I was not expecting what I got... he charged $40 to remove 2 broken exhaust studs (I don't have a good enough drill to get those bolts out, tried for a long time with the best bits i could find but i needed a higher speed drill), $50 to "degrease and resurface" (25 per head), and $60 to pressure test for cracks on both heads. After a few days he called and told me there aren't any cracks but there are some pits on the sealing surface that are too deep to be taken off with the mill so they needed to be welded, $40 per head bringing my grand total to $230. I had told him in the beginning not to do any work on the valve train even though I know it may need some, because I'm just trying to get the head leak repaired as cheaply as possible, not looking for any performance gains or anything like that. When I went to pick them up I was expecting to see some shiny, new looking heads that were spotlessly cleaned, but they still had all kinds of carbon caked on to the insides of the ports, and when I flipped it over to load it into my trunk a huge pile of dirt/powdered rust and metal shavings dumped out! there are still metal shavings all over it. I know I may have set my expectations a little too high as far as the cleaning but, shouldn't the machine shop be expected to clean up all the metal shavings? again I'm new to this so I don't know, that's just what I was assuming...... the other problem I have is the welding. I was expecting a perfect surface after that but there are still pits that were NOT milled out or welded (those spots are not by the cylinders so he told me to just use copper gasket sealer and it'll be fine), and the ones that were welded have excess metal that expands into the water jackets, very severely or even completely blocking the flow of coolant in a couple of spots. I'll attach pictures to show... the head gasket itself covers some of the water jackets but when i place it over the face of the head you can see which ones were blocked off that shouldn't have been
  24. Just got mine in the mail today, looking miiiighty fine on my jr:thumbsup: Originally had a spiked plate frame, not too fond of it with the new plates..covers alot of the edges. going to pick up a matching one for the front soon. thinking of getting some slim rimmed covers. So, anyone else have any plates worth showing off? Cool designs? crazy sayings?
  25. Well, I finally made it to pick up my convertible. Its a 94 black on black. I have a few questions pertaining to it tho. I hope some fellow owners could shine some light in on it for me. Thanks 1. Is the owners manual the same as the 2 door model? Any one have a part number for the manual if so? 2. Does anyone know where i can watch or buy the video that GM made about the top? I believe its on a vhs tape. 3. Parts... Going to be compiling a list here shortly. But for now, anyone know where I can get the rubber buttons at for the domelight on the rool bar? Mine are completely missing. thanks again
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