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Found 2,757 results

  1. Swapping to olds intrigue struts in the rear of my 97 monte ls. I currently have a rear sway bar from a 98 monte z34. What i wanna know is what w, 88-2012, had the stiffest factory rear bar. I dont have access to a police impala. I do have access to; 92z34, 95 monte z34, regular impalas(3.4 and 3.8), 2001 monte ss, 2006 monte lt 3.9, intrigues (3.5 and 3.8), along with the usual w jy fodder. Thanks
  2. i'm gonna do one last suspension mod and that is put teh DOHC 34 mm bar in front....how do I do it? I can do the rear susp. in my sleep. The front....I know nothing about... I'm gonna do the engergy susp. poly bushings too
  3. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to convertibletopguys.com: “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from 1aauto.com with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to 1aauto.com: “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. Convertibletopguys.com give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. Convertibletopguys.com sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops: Topsonline.com—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good. Convertibletopguys.com—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on sears.com’s website here: http://auto.sears.com/Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Convertible-Tops/600025340-200743174-1994-10623.htm. 1aauto.com—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay. EZsofttops.com—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than topsonline.com, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through Electrontop.com and topsdown.com. Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is http://www.hydroe.com/Oldsmobile_Cutlass.html. If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  4. FOR SALE: AWEB80 Rear strut tower bars for 1st gen w-bodies. COMPLETE BARS: $100 shipped w.out hardware, unpainted $108 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, unpainted $118 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, painted GLOSS BLACK BRACKETS ONLY: $45 shipped / pair, unpainted $52 shipped / pair, painted GLOSS BLACK Fits all 1st gen cars excluding Cutlass Convertibles due to the top needing room to fold down. All prices in USD. Payment is accepted via PayPal at mshantz83@hotmail.com Photo of the brackets, plasma cut, unpainted: To complete the install if you purchase just the brackets, you'll need a center bar (1x1 square tube, 37.5" long, with 1/2" holes drilled on 36" centers)
  5. So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on
  6. 1) Lloyd Ultimats from my 98 Regal. They are a full set of front & rear mats in the light gray color. The fronts have the Buick tri-shield logo embroidered. Some of the securing tabs are broken. $100 shiped 2) 2 sets of rear GM splash guards for 06 GP. They are used and have a good bit of scraping on the bottoms. Fit front and rear. $10 3) Trailblazer SS MAF sensor (used). $50 4) Stock 3.8" supercharger pulley (used). $5 5) MSP CAI with powerstack cone filter (used). $125 The best looking CAI, IMO. http://www.3800performance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=AI 6) Overkill Motorsports PCM left open for tuning (used). $125 7) ZZP 3" downpipe with spun cat and rear flange (necked down to 2.5") $175 can include O2 sensor extension harness
  7. This is my ride and recently toasted three speakers. Both rear and drivers door. Have replaced with Sony Xplod speakers but concerned the monsoon amp might do in this set. Any idea where the amp is located? Might bypass it and put in a new radio, my deck is loosing illumination! Mark Morgan
  8. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  9. Looks like after 14 years my 96 Regal needs new rear struts. The rubber bumpers are rotten and it and the dust shield have dropped down on the shock. I have read that the Monroe Sensa-Trac Strut will give the softest ride is this fairly accurate?
  10. I've had a couple PMs about this topic over this spring and summer. Since most convertible owners are getting the cars out of the garages. This was a new piece of NOS weather stripping about a year ago. They just don't last. So save your money and don't buy those E-bay NOS convertible weather strips. Figured I'd show how to fix this problem and give a lot of info on the way. I know this has been done before. No one has really done a complete write up on it. These are 1993+ Camaro/Firebird front window weather strips. You can buy these new or pull them at a local yard. There are several clips that hold these in place. Just put a flat screw driver down in between the window and the door and pry up. They should come off really easy. I paid 3 dollars for TWO of these at the local yard. You have plenty of material to do the job. There are clips that used to hold it onto the F-body car. I removed these so they weren't in the way. I took a flat head screwdriver and pried up on them and they came off. There are six rivets on this piece of weather stripping. I drilled them out to remove what they were holding. There are three of those metal bars on the back of the weather stripping. I removed so they would not be in the way of the window. You will need to remove the B pillar trim. It's about 6 screws. Have junk in the trunk? Remove it. To remove the piece of trim below the weather stripping, you will need to go in the trunk. There are three 9mm nuts that attach it to the car. The last one is a stretch. Once that is off you have a much better look at what your dealing with. You will need to drill out those rivets. Roll down the window! You do not want to let the drill bit hit the glass. I tossed in a rag in between the window and rivet. Raining outside. Tossed it up were it needs to go. The length of the factory weather stripping. Measure twice and mark your mark twice. Then drill once. Make sure it's in the right spot. You can see I have some rubber remaining in my drilled holes. I made sure I cleaned that out before I installed. That way you have a really nice fit and finish. Time for the pop rivet gun! Then pop in your new rivets. Now it's time to put the B pillar and trim back on. Old piece. New piece. And enjoy your new clean weather stripping. It looks a lot better than the old stuff.
  11. I'm going to post here as well for easier searching. I was able to use the factory upper strut mount and bump stop by using some springs that have a 4 1/8" ID top and a 2 1/2" ID bottom. The springs are listed as "GM series" coil springs and are available from 250 to 600lb. The 250 and 300lb springs are 11" long. The 350lb and above springs are 10" long. The springs I used for my 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible were the springs rated at 300lbs /in. I ground down the factory upper spring isolator to make a tapered spacer (3/8" thick on one side and 1/8" thick on the other) to keep the spring parallel with the strut. Install the tapered spacer on the upper strut mount, then install the poly spring isolator and spring with thrust bearing, adjusting sleeve and nut. The guys at QA1 racing said to use never seize on the thrust bearing. I cut the bottom two rings off the bump stop. Parts List: (2) HAL-11HTBF300 springs $65.97 ea at summit racing (1) ENS-9-6101G Spring isolator $20.97 pr at summit racing. (1) HAL-7888-109 Thrust bearing kit $25.97 pr at summit racing. (2) COK-12452-H Coil over adjusting sleeve about $40/pr A1 Racing. (2) COK-12460 Coil over adjuster nut about $26/pr A1 Racing Total investment around $250 Wheels: 17X8 + 38 offset Tires: 255/45-17 Tire clearance at 1 3/4" drop. I've since went 2" drop and no tire rubbing on either the springs or the fenders yet. This is as low as I feel comfortable with so this is where I stop. 2" drop front. 2 1/2" drop rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. Does anyone know the stock side panel speaker size on a 92 cutlass convertible. Thanks rich
  13. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  14. WTB!!!! 1st gen rear fiberglass leaf spring or just the 2 center isolator bushings. I don't care on what it looks like I only need the bushings which have to be in decent condition. Ill pay for a whole leaf I dont care.. got to mount my Birchmount rear leaf asap. Spoon93@gmail.com -Jarek
  15. RobertISaar

    Cheapish 5.25 recommendations

    so, the 5.25 4-way sony units I put in the MC in 2008ish were immediately crap, enough so that I sent the majority of the volume to the rear 6X9s just so I wouldn't have to listen to the front speakers lose all of their shit whenever something sub-150Hz came their way. the factory 5.25 were actually noticeably louder than what those were, along with not sounding like they were abused for years. so, I'm looking at stuff in the $30-40 range and I'm lost. I'm not going to deal with trying to place components in this car, there isn't anywhere I could place a tweeter and not have it look so out of place and still be effective at directing sound. I kind of doubt that i'll want/need them to be amplified to have at least the same apparent volume as the rears while sitting up front, so i'll probably end up with an inline cap("bass blocker") as a high-pass filter with whatever I end up with. so, $40 or less 5.25 composite speakers that aren't going to cause more aggravation than they're worth?
  16. So this door handle chromer in the Citation X-11 group on Facebook (not much further explanation needed really...) is telling me that there were 12 TGPs actually sold in Canada and they were available through 1991 instead of the GTP. Mind you, this is the same guy that says the THM-125 3 speed used in the Grand Prix was fully electronic. Also, the Corsica came with 5x115 hubs in front and 5x100 hubs in the rear. We got to talking TGPs because he bought the drivetrain from one. He lives in Canada. It's so funny that I had to share. Total door handle chromer - a person that thinks they know everything when in reality doesn't know half as much as they think they do.
  17. Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the bolt on the rear side of the LQ1 alternator? The one that goes through the bracket on the back of it... When I pulled my alt, the bolt was missing...
  18. 92 Cutlass Supreme needs some rear struts, and I know KYB's are favorites around here, but they are very expensive. Can pick up two Monroe OE Spectrum(Sensatrac) struts for 28.99 each shipped. The Monroe strut mate mounting kit 902941 Napa branded for $17.00 each shipped. Two complete rear struts with all new parts for $92 to my door sounds like a good deal to me. Just have to assemble the strut mate kit, and it will be a fully assembled ready to mount strut. What you guys think? I know KYB has a good reputation, but money is talking.
  19. For Sale - Best offer For FFP poly Dogbones that were installed in a 1994 Cutlass Supreme 3100. Has been sitting in my garage since 2011 when car was sold. Forgot it was still in the garage sitting in a box. I'm preparing to move in 2 weeks and would like to get it to someone for them to enjoy. Don't know what the going rate for one of these is anymore, so make me a reasonable offer and it's yours. I'm also selling an AWeb RSTB (rear strut tower brace) for a 1st gen. Thanks!
  20. For Sale - Best offer For an AWeb powder coated Rear Strut Tower Brace (RSTB) that was installed in a '94 Cutlass Supreme 4dr. Has been sitting in my garage since 2011 when car was sold. Forgot it was still in the garage. I'm preparing to move in 2 weeks and would like to get it to someone for them to enjoy. Don't know what the going rate for one of these is anymore, so make me a reasonable offer and it's yours. I'm also selling FFP Dogbones for a 3100 engine. Comes with mounting brackets that I had stored with it. Thanks!
  21. got rear ended a few weeks ago and need a taillight prefer local pickup but ill send money for shipping if i absolutely have to im located in trenton NJ
  22. Hey- I just bought this 1998 Monte Carlo Z-34. It's driven great for about three thousand miles, and still runs OK. It throws a code for a small leak in the evaporative emissions canister. Probably the line is rotted. Where, exactly is the thing? It's not where my 1996 W-body manual says. My Buick GS rotted out around the right rear trailing (holding?) arm. No one would fix it. thanks for any replies, I know it's been a long time since I posted last. Mike
  23. jake91

    Front end clunk 2003 GTP

    So as im sure a lot of you have seen on FB i have this clunk in the front of my car. The noise seems to originate on the passenger side. I happens one single time on every initial acceleration from a stop. It also happens intermittently over large bumps like gutters and speed bumps, and on rear rare occasions full lock turning.. This clunk is loud I've had a cd skip while playing once or twice Now this started right after a lot of suspension work. I replaced control arms, ball joints, swaybars, endlinks, and lowered the car. I did reuse the old struts and mounts as they were less than 30k miles and 2 years old, i also installed shorter dogbones to make sure the downpipe doesn't hit the swaybar (clunking happened before shorter dogbones so thats been ruled out). Ive had a inspection done on all the replacement part and they all seem to be installed and tightened correctly Motor mounts were replaced 2 years ago but were replaced with stock hydraulic mounts, and both cv axles are spewing grease, but both of those usually have different symptoms than what I'm experiencing. Let me know what you think Thanks Jake
  24. Heartbeat1991

    Seat Belt Buckle

    I am looking for a TGP tan rear seat female seat belt buckle. Anyone have one they can part with?
  25. GP1138

    Ways You'd Improve the 1st Gen W

    It's 1986 - you've been transported to the past, and miraculously, you're on the GM-10 project, that is supposed to help revitalize GM's image, and bring them back from possible financial ruin. Knowing all you know now about how the cars have aged, what are some things you think would improve the overall quality of these cars in fifteen years? Do you think they survived the years they were meant to survive without falling apart terribly? This is with an understanding of both quality control's effect on the bottom line... it's hard to keep these things on a budget. Also I'm aware that GM did fix these things in the newer "1.5" gen W's. I'd do the following: Strengthen the brakes - less problematic rear calipers Use different materials to cover Lumina and Cutlass dashpads Design the turn signal switches differently in the square columns (I'm not an engineer, but perhaps better quality metal on the contacts) Glass headlights throughout the line, no plastic that can fade and discolor I'll think of more, but I figured it was an interesting idea to write on.
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