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  1. 2 points
    ManicMechanic

    Restoration project...

    Nice save, looks pretty solid for an Ohio car. Fortunately, the door glass is the same as a 1988-94 coupe
  2. 2 points
    negativeMatt

    5 speeeeed

    Its pretty ragged, but the 5 speed will go great in my black 90 TGP! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  3. 2 points
    ManicMechanic

    5 speeeeed

    @jiggity76 showed me this one. Pretty rare car.
  4. 2 points
    For a decade or so my wife and I have been owners of several vehicles from dead brands. (Geo Metro, Saturn SW2, Plymouth Grand Voyager SE and the one oddball because the brand is still in existence - 1985 F250) It's kind of fun in a way but finding parts gets more difficult every year. I was telling my wife maybe we need to find something that is still easy to find in the junkyards and was so popular that parts are still easy to come by new. Next thing I know a coworker puts his 1999 Buick Century Limited up for sale. Bingo! My first order of business then is to find out what vehicles have components in common with this one and what bolt-in swaps can be done for upgrades.
  5. 2 points
    Schurkey

    Rounded bolt on the water pump

    START with a six-point socket instead of your 12-point. (Wild guess: There's a lesson to be learned here.) (Second Wild Guess: The bolts have corroded to the casting, you're gonna need heat, and you'll be lucky if the aluminum is saveable.) I've removed lug nuts with those so-called "Turbo" sockets. They're tapered inside, with a "reverse-thread" machining that tends to pull the damaged fastener in, and wedge it as you turn the socket to loosen the fastener. The ones I have are specifically for lug nuts. SK sells some intended for general purpose. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007GGUEC/ref=psdc_553372_t1_B0007GGUE2
  6. 2 points
    Nwebb2012

    New guy from Michigan

    I’ve got a 92 neon blue GTP 5 speed. She has 126k only rust is at the top of the windshield. Pics are from when I first picked her up to at the w body meet at ZZP in Grand Rapids.
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Nwebb2012

    New guy from Michigan

    I plan to put stock wheels back on it and I’ve been looking for a valance for a while. car is one of 8 optioned this way.
  9. 2 points
  10. 2 points
    el_corsez

    New guy from Belgium

    Hi, my name is Tim and for about a year or so I've been a proud owner of a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme that's been passed onto me. I live in Belgium and the car is in Poland for the moment but that's another matter. I had always wanted an American car, maybe the Olds isn't what the average teenager dreams of but these cars are very rare in Europe so I'm happy with it. The Oldsmobile make is almost unknown in these parts, so it adds to the curiosity factor. There are however problems with rarity - the first one being spare parts. The second issue is finding people with enough knowledge to be able to diagnose a problem or recommend any change - that is how I found this forum, I've already found a few useful posts. I hope that one day I'll be able to contribute to this forum to respond in kind.
  11. 2 points
    Bake82

    CS window trim.

    Glad the info helps! It’s from the GM factory service manual. It is an absolute MUST have if working on these cars! They tell you basically everything you need to know including diagnosing al issues. They’re dirt cheap now too! Without the manuals my car would not be on the road!
  12. 2 points
    Bake82

    CS window trim.

  13. 1 point
    pbender

    Restoration project...

    So it has been a long time since I posted here.... and Shawn ( @GnatGoSplat) probably thinks I’m crazy for starting this project, but... Yesterday I rescued my 1993 Cutlass Supreme Convertible from what used to be a lumber yard in Byhalia,OH where it had sat for almost exactly 11 years ( it was parked there in October, 2008 ). I am in a bit of damage/deterioration determination mode at the moment. When she was parked, the motor was partially disassembled, so obviously there is some work to be done under the hood. The drivers side window was broken at some point, so that will need to be replaced, and at this point I don’t know if any of the interior parts have damage that needs to be repaired or replaced due to the layer of dirt and dust and other debris I still need to clean out of the car. Getting her up on the trailer ( and back down again ) was fun... the passenger side rear wheel isn’t spinning. Surprisingly, all 4 tires took air, though the drivers side front would only hold it about an hour. Passenger side front was better. It took 12 hours before it went flat.... Next task is to look through the pile of parts ( and repair manuals ) I put in the trunk all those years ago... I need it clear so I can see if the top still works....
  14. 1 point
    pbender

    Restoration project...

    And in case you are wondering, here is the thread where I discussed the issues the car had before it was partly disassembled: Now the motor has been siding with both the cam carriers and the intake manifold off of it since 2005 ( there is another thread here: ) At this point, I am not inclined to put the motor back together without rebuilding it. I think that is the right thing to do for the old girl. I did get the trunk cleared out tonight, and the hood open. All the parts I removed from the motor were tucked inside the trunk.
  15. 1 point
    pbender

    Restoration project...

    Thanks. This was actually my daily driver from 1998-2002. I then supplemented her with another car and she did not see much winter road driving. She developed a ticking sound which I didn’t really have time to fix. Long ago I posted an audio file here of the noise she made. The license plates on her expired in 2004. She ended up in the lumber yard because I moved to Louisiana for 7.5 years. At least in the 11 years she was there, she was mostly under roof. ( you can actually see the line in the dirt on the hood where rain dripped off the roof edge ). The door glass is the least of my worries right now. Once I get her cleaned up, I may drop the top and leave it down most of the time, so I don’t really need the windows much ( not saying I won’t fix it, but there are bigger fish to fry... )
  16. 1 point
    jiggity76

    Restoration project...

    So excited to see another one getting saved! I just love the red color and like Manic said, looks really solid. Congrats and I think it's so cool bringing back W-Bodies from the dead. I saved two W's from definitely getting scrapped and I found them in the same situation as you. My 91 International sat in the original owner's back yard since 09. I saved it in Dec of 2015. I bought my 93 STE last year from the original owner's son. It's been sitting in his front yard in the CA desert since 2010. I saved it this past June. Nothing beats seeing W's on Uhaul trailers, LOL! I'm using way too many exclamation points but so excited to see another CS!
  17. 1 point
    jiggity76

    5 speeeeed

    My fav year for the coupes are 91-93, of course the GTP's! Since I've been to CA now and realize it's not a big deal to travel, I REALLY WISH I had saved a 91 GTP that was for sale on CL out there. It was a factory CD car with the LQ1/5 speed combo. White with grey cloth quad bucket seats. No rust and all complete. It got down to $900 bucks, didn't sell and then they owner scrapped it. It showed up on Row52.com or a similar place like that. So sad, and it's haunting me now. Remember that one Jay?
  18. 1 point
    jiggity76

    5 speeeeed

    Not trying to put this car down AT ALL but I just think the inner fogs on these cars look SO MUCH BETTER than without. Still an pretty incredible little coupe!
  19. 1 point
    jiggity76

    5 speeeeed

    Amen brother! That is going to be a blast to drive when you get her done!
  20. 1 point
    oldmangrimes

    Front suspension fail

    Update on the car: After driving it a month or two, it developed a unsafe "shimmy" or weird steering shift in the steering when making a hard left at speed. I did some online research and identified a few possible causes. Like usual, I didn't take it to a professional and tried to fix it myself. I thought it was probably related to something I'd replaced over the winter. Did I mention I've not a very good mechanic? But I am persistent. Anyway . . . So, I guessed it was the subframe mounts, as the car had 240k miles and the visible sides of the mounts looked bad. When the car was up on jackstands nothing felt loose, but of course I couldn't recreate the side-loads experienced on 45-mph sweepers. So I ordered a set of four subframe mounts, watched a couple youtube videos (there aren't many for this repair on first gen w-bodys) and got to work. First, I supported the engine with a jack and a block of wood and cracked loose the four mounting bolts for the subframe mounts. But I had to use a breaker bar to break loose the rear two mounts, and in doing so I broke the weld on the cage holding the hidden nut that is trapped inside two layers of the unibody by the drivers footwell. I did NOT realize this at the time. I spent a few hours removing the rusted, disintegrated remains of the original mounts. Initially I just used a hammer and chisel to remove most of the metal and rubber. But the metal parts of the mounts were wedged into the subframe and I couldn't pry them out. After awkwardly fighting it for hours, laying on my back with limited clearance, I ended up using my angle grinder and cutting at the stuck metal pieces. Finally I got it all removed, put the new pieces in place and tried to reassemble them. I couldn't get the parts to compress together, I fought it a while before realizing I hadn't removed all of the metal from the old mount, I thought it was metal from the subframe (I'm an idiot). I tried again to compress the mounts in place but I realized that the nut was spinning and I couldn't get to it to hold it in place! I was many many hours into the project at this point, spread out over weeks of time (vacations and other projects like my 1991 speedboat kept interrupting ) so I dejectedly gave up for a few weeks and left the car in the garage. Eventually I found a thread somewhere here describing how a guy had to cut through the floor to get to the nut. So, without knowing really what I was doing I cut through the carpet and insulation, cut and pried back a few-inch-square piece of floorboard (wow it was thin metal! I've never cut a floorboard before, I just assumed it would be thicker metal), and saw the busted cage around the nut. (see pic of floorboard hole, with broken nut cage removed) Even though the passenger side cage hadn't broken, I still cut through the floor on that side just to see for myself, I figured what the heck I'm already a bajillion hours into this project. It gets worse. (Did I mention I can make an easy project into a nightmare?). Since I still couldn't get the two subframe mount halves to compress together, I found out from a Youtube video that I needed a longer bolt. But the longer bolts I bought weren't threaded all the way like the bolts that came with the mounts, and when I finally got everything back together (yay?) I didn't realize that I had just tightened the nut down to the end of the threads and it wasn't compressing the rubber mount fully. So I drove it for a few days, but the steering was even worse because the whole subframe was shifting around. I didn't realize why and thought that I'd screwed up the steering rack when I lowered the subframe. Back in the garage it went. Also I didn't realize that when you replace subframe mounts then the alignment gets screwed up so my steering was off center even worse. And with the variable assist steering on my Oldsmobile it feels weird driving with the wheel a few degrees off because the progressive assist doesn't match the on-center steering. Anyway . . . I eventually realized that maybe I should check if the subframe was tightened properly. When I checked, I could tell the bolts didn't feel tight (because the rubber had compressed more) so I tried to tighten them, couldn't (because the nut was at the end of the threads), and then FINALLY realized what was up, added more washers to allow the bolt to draw up the subframe mounts properly, adjusted my tie-rods again to center the steering wheel, and now four months later it's fixed! I've driven for a couple hundred miles and it's driving better than it has in years. I need to patch up the holes in the floorboards, currently I just bent the metal flaps I cut back into place and loosely covered with the carpet and insulation I cut out. It's all hidden under my floormats for now, but I need to spray primer on the cut metal to slow the rusting and seal it up better for water and fire protection. Looking back on the project, I can see many places where I wasted time with the wrong tools, misdiagnosed issues, stupid decisions, and other things I didn't put into this already too-long post. I spent 50+ hours of my life, lost a summer of top-down cruising, and saved . . .a few hundred dollars of mechanic charges maybe? A smart mechanic could have done the whole project much more simply, in a couple hours on a lift with the right tools and expertise. I know that doesn't seem like it's worth it, but it's the principal of fixing it all myself and keeping the car forever. Anyway, that's my story of the summer of 2019 with my vert, on my back in the garage instead of out in the sunshine. Oh well, she's back on daily driver duty, just in time for the fall rainy season. I wonder what will break next. . .
  21. 1 point
    Leadfoot

    Anyone close by?

    Are you looking for a parts car or a restore project?
  22. 1 point
    K&R

    Anyone close by?

    I love that "Runs and Drives" is written on the windshield. Prolly not as good as they think.
  23. 1 point
    IIRC I marked the two wires to remind me of additional things to do after the adapter was in. D-11 is the oil pressure wire and needs an older P/N switch to work with the UB3. C-13 is the other starred line and needs to tap into an existing wire on the OBD 1 harness.
  24. 1 point
    Get yourself a piece of history. This Cutlass supreme has a new top, new timing belt, 87500 miles. Runs great, top functions as it should, have the boot cover. Have lots of documentation with it. Only a few small problems. Drivers seat has some wear. Spoiler paint has a bubble, and a few chips, what you would expect in a car that's been driven. The control box needs to be rebuilt, the remote locks don't work. I don't have current pictures will take them when I have a few minutes. Really don't know how to price this, because this is one of a kind. I know what was paid for this car and what has been asked for regular rides, I am going to start at $8000. Included in price is $3500 spent on the new top(+mechanical work). Located in Mebane NC 27302. The signatures are under the backseat. For those of you that don't know, the last model of a production run usually get signed by the workers. Also included are the imperfections, I must say the car is dirty.
  25. 1 point
    Pics Posted
  26. 1 point
    Nwebb2012

    New guy from Michigan

    Oh I know it does. The wife drives the car more than I do, she doesn’t really go anywhere unless she has to in the winter so it probably won’t be driven.
  27. 1 point
    bluecalais79

    CS window trim.

    Thanks, I have a 1996, probably similar, I'll check it out
  28. 1 point
    James Robert

    "95 CS Convertable for sale

    Unfortunately, yes. I am moving to a rural area with dirt roads. Not the best for this car. James
  29. 1 point
    Nwebb2012

    New guy from Michigan

    I’m in Kalamazoo.
  30. 1 point
    Psych0matt

    New guy from Michigan

    Welcome! Where in mi are you at? My 92 has 126k as well
  31. 1 point
    All this trouble from a dang faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator. Problem is fixed! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  32. 1 point
    Nas Escobar

    New guy from Belgium

    I have a spare UB3 cluster around. Ive collected 2 of them since theyre hard to find. Thats the one with the advanced features. The basic one only had speed, fuel and mileage.
  33. 1 point
    2 TGP CD Players are officially sold.
  34. 1 point
    jiggity76

    CS window trim.

    That's incredible information, actually a bit overkill. I don't want to remove the glass, just want to remove the trim around it. I will look at this more in depth, I also have a body man (friend of mine) who is coming over to help me evaluate how to pull the trim. Looks like some of it is non reusable like the windshield trim. That's ok, nothing I can really do about that. I mainly want to get the belt line pieces and the trim around the door windows, the upper and lower rear glass trim. Thanks so much for this info. I might actually have this same book, I need to look in my parts room but this stuff looks familiar. Never thought about using it as reference, my mistake on my part.
  35. 1 point
    Bake82

    CS window trim.

    Does that help? Let me know if you need anything else!
  36. 1 point
    Bake82

    Bumper removal.

  37. 1 point
    Bake82

    Bumper removal.

    As promised.
  38. 1 point
    Hetzer

    FNG here

    Wife and I have had a '99 GTP since new. Looking to keep the thing going so I thought I'd sign up for the wealth of info I'm sure is here.
  39. 1 point
    Honestly, now that you have a storage space, it might not be a bad idea to make a run up and grab it, then pull all the parts you could need and store them with your car and scrap the rest. I can't see this be worth restoring with the current rust situation, but it's an amazing parts car.
  40. 1 point
    Bake82

    Parting Out Cutlass Supreme 1996

    PM sent.
  41. 1 point
    K&R

    Could A Profit Be Made from This Car?

    I do love fins, chrome and horse power just like everybody else, I have also put my foot down to other car collectors about my taste, but when I roll up in my car from 1990 among a sea of 69 Camaros and tri fives Chevys I stand out. We have the cars that were not suppose to survive but THEY DID! So make room, like it or not. I do understand that the majority of people grew up around the rear wheel drive big v8 cars but the FWD drive cars can pack a punch to.
  42. 1 point
    Seems like I'm on a constant LQ1 myth buster crusade on fb. People who've never owned or maintained one acting like they're an authority. The biggest myth being how difficult it is to change a timing belt followed closely by constant head gasket failures and massive oil leaks. Then I get called a dick because I call them out for disseminating false information
  43. 1 point
    Welcome. Is your Z34 white by chance? Post up some pics in the new members section and tell us a little about it. http://www.w-body.com/topic/47477-lowered-the-front-of-my-cutty/ is a good place to start for the front. I used this on my first wbody and am getting ready to do it to my second one. https://www.w-body.com/topic/55347-lowered-the-rear-of-my-cutty/ shows the parts list needed for building coil overs for the rear. Getting ready to do this again too, but this time I'm going to take more pics and provide a more detailed write-up. It's super easy.
  44. 1 point
    Imp558

    New member with big dreams

    Welcome to the community, we love pictures here.
  45. 1 point
    Posting a little update. I've had the car driving since August roughly. So far I've put 6k miles on it since I completed my overhaul. The only thing that went wrong was the new radiator cap I purchased from rockauto. The seal was bad and would leak from it, however that has since been fixed. The car will be hitting its 100k milestone today!! Excited to see it! My plans for 2019 include the following. 1.) Get the mufflers and tips replaced. 2.) Address the fading trim around the convertible top, and the lip spoiler. 3.) Find a nice set of Bonneville GXP wheels for the ole girl. 4.) Clean up the underside of the car and rust proof with light suspension restoration. 5.) Replace the bad interior trim pieces. 6.) Overhaul the sound system. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  46. 1 point
    Imp558

    First Gen Coilover Thread ver: 2018

    Summit salesman also thought I was crazy asking if there was a product to help protect the sleeve from the spring, Whoop! DER IT IS! https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL64201-Shock-Protector/dp/B00F0CE8L0 Dumbass, I should call back and try to get a salesman that knows something, I bet the 2 1/8" ID isolators are intended for 2 1/2" coilovers and the dipshit didn't know because him and his Honda Homeboys never deemed it necessary.
  47. 1 point
    RobertISaar

    Digi UB3 adapter

    actually, you're limited to 255MPH, but it's not like you could see that unless you drove off a cliff.
  48. 0 points
    pontiac6ksteawd

    Anyone close by?

    I bet it does. Judging by the rust, probably became unsafe to drive in the frame areas.
  49. 0 points
    James Robert

    "95 CS Convertable for sale

    I thought I would list this here first, hoping this car goes to someone that will take care of it. 54K miles $4250. James
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