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Well, from where I stand I would probably look for a 3400 LA1 shortblock, plunk the T-code heads & intake down onto it, & install a custom 3400 T-code engine into the car. I personally wouldn't waste my money on just a T code 3.1

Got the knuckles swapped over and the GXP brakes installed. Going to tackle the e-brake next. Going with a rip-it style handle from an 04-ish J-body and a center console from an 00+ Monte. I have new rear e-brake cables from a 2G, so I'm going to need to figure out how to mate them with the Cavalier one. I know there's a thread somewhere on going to this style e-brake, but I can't find it. Anyone know where it is?

The 1995 factory manual said to use silicone grease (GM 12345579 or equivalent) on weather-stripping. If you have tried something other than silicone grease, how is it working for you? An older post mentioned Gummi Pflege instead of silicone grease. I am getting ready to do maintenance on my convertible top, and was just going to use silicone grease again, but am interested in hearing what products people are currently using.

I reckon you could find an entire car with a good LH0 for less then the cost of a reman engine. Then you can at least drive it and put a known quantity in the car I'm so scared of reman things these days, you might get something good, you might get a even bigger disaster then what you have already.

It's difficult to get a picture that shows both calipers well.

rearviewmirrorstore.com is actually my site. I was just checking on visitors for the day, and I saw someone was directed there from w-body.com. I was like.....what?! Then I came here and found this. That's a pretty rare mirror you linked to. As far as I know, they were an exclusive option in the Dodge Stratus, and as you can imagine, there's not a lot of those in the junkyards anymore. It's what I call my "grand daddy of them all" mirror, as it has pretty much every feature other than a back up screen, thus the price. You're actually pretty limited on choices if you want auto-dimming with map lights. Donnelly made them, which were even found in 2nd gen Regals, but Donnelly mirrors are garbage. The auto-dimming gel is pretty much guaranteed to break/leak at some point, and I'm guessing the gel must be acidic or something, because eventually, they start deforming/eating through the plastic housing of the mirror. I have seen this time and time again in the junkyards and in the w-body community. Have helped several GTP owners switch from their Donnelly (no map lights) to that mirror in your last pic. Very easy swap. Another option is the optional 1st gen Sebring convertible mirror. Same mirror was available in the mid-'00s Lincoln Continental and Olds Intrigue GLS, except those had a compass as well. The problem with any of those, as me and Sean have talked about numerous times on this site, is that they require a BCM to kill power to the mirror after X amount of minutes. Otherwise, those mirrors will have a continuous draw on the battery. Enough so that they could kill the battery if you don't start the car after a few days. These are the mirrors I'm talking about: https://rearviewmirrorstore.com/products/gentex-auto-dimming-mirror-with-led-map-lights https://rearviewmirrorstore.com/products/gentex-auto-dimming-mirror-with-led-map-lights-compass There IS another older option that many don't know about for auto-dimming and map lights. They were an exclusive option for the '90s Chevy Caprice and Buick Roadmaster, so they'd be period correct for your Z34. Only downfall is I believe they use the tension spring mounting instead of a torx screw. I have a few that are still sitting around. This is what they look like:

Take a photo of what you have, generally the aftermarket upper mounts are all near as close to the original design. You mentioned that the holes in the strut tower have been maligned? any portable spring compressor will be a manual item, the safe method is to take the struts to a shop & let them do the replacement on a pneumatic spring compressor that has a cage to protect the techie from danger.

So, Wednesday marked seven years to the day that I took delivery of my '95 Cutlass Supreme convertible, which also means the registration is due for renewal. When I took it in for that today, I was informed that since the car is now 30 years old, the state of North Carolina considers it to be "vintage vehicle," and such it no longer requires an annual state safety inspection. Fine by me, that's a few dollars I didn't have to spend today. I also believe the Antique Automobile Club of America would consider it an antique.

Totally for sentimental value because financially it doesn’t make any sense to drop $4k on it! Probably wouldn’t be worth more than that afterwards. It has 172k miles, but I have the money to spend, so want to have a quality replacement engine.

Alright I got it all put back together and it works great now! I used a combination of a plastic welder and jb weld to reattach the plastic guide and it seemed to work great, it was very sturdy. The door trim and weatherstripping wasn’t too bad to deal with. It’s all screws and metal clips. Some stuff has double sided foam tape/pads but it was no issue. Hope some of this info helps. IMG_7911.mov

How about part # 08686920 2cw204125168370 i have 4 of them in the crate,s cant figure application steve tinley park ill.

Thank You Needed a win, its been awhile.

All that work and I ended up dropping and breaking that vent awhile back. Thanks to an extremely generous member here I have a replacement vent. I keep the pair inside packed in a box so I can`t break them without effort. Had an idea and went with it in securing the drip pans and screens. Using some things I had on hand I came up with some brackets that can be removed easily for cleaning or paint. I don't know if it helped or not, but I also used a small wire brush to clean out the posts and put a few drops of silicone lube in them before barely snugging up the mounting screws. Everything holds tight and secure when the hood is open and closed and looks good from the top, underneath maybe different but each side is mirrored to the other to the 1/16" with the exact same parts. It could look better with fabbed up metal stock instead, but the idea works and can be covered with some insulation in the future. It really doesnt look half bad with just the screens and pans, and Ive not even painted those yet. Seems like it could match the front grilles...

Am I the only one who thinks this is way more trouble than it's worth? I know that the first-gen rear calipers have a bad reputation, but it's not deserved in my (admittedly limited) experience. I know that on my '92 and '93 Luminas, the rear calipers haven't given me excessive trouble--at least, not more than any other calipers, and less than typical aluminum-bodied calipers. I have had them apart for cleaning and inspection; and even replaced them with "rebuilt" calipers in desperation, trying to fix a "hard pedal, poor braking power" situation a long time ago. The poor braking was due to failing vacuum power boosters on both vehicles, not the calipers/rotors/pads in front or in back.

I’ll be tackling this in a week or so. I’ll probably run no parking brake for a while. GXP rotors/calipers on impala knuckles, mounted in a 94 z34. If I remember correctly, I think I was eyeballing using a N body center console e brake setup to make it work, out of a grand am or something. I forgot the specifics.

1G2WT54X5MF270726: 5150 STEs; 652 had Cassette and HUD; of 652, 33 had a 5 speed; of 33, 21 had a sunroof; of 21, 4 were Bright Red with gray leather. 1G2WT54XXMF286162: 5150 STEs; only 1 was Garnet Red with Garnet Red wheels, 5 speed. and CD.

^ What he said. If you wanna go the extra mile line up the timing mark on the harmonic balancer and check the flats on the cams, one bank should be up one should be down depending on the stroke Being a 94' If you wanted to do it "by the books" you absolutely could make your own cam hold down tools, you need but a piece of flatbar stock and a couple metric bolt(the size and pitch escapes me at the moment) to hold the cam flats down. But beware despite 94-97 LQ1s having the improved cam cogs I've still seen them get stuck on real good.

Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.

A better pic.

This is a great overall video of not only the tensioner but anything having to do with servicing these wonderful motors. Like in the video, motor oil is used to top off the tensioner. There is a rubber plug that gives access to filling it. The video explains what is acceptable for the tensioner to be at as far as specs to be considered reusable. You'll have to skip forward a bit to find the appropriate sections of information. Hope this helps!

As Jiggity stated those tensioners are now made of *unobtanium*, you would have to service yours & reuse it.

Not really. But lots of good info there. I found these that are really close....but not exactly what was original.

The booster has to twist counter-clockwise from under the hood to release. (Clockwise from the driver's seat.) There's a lock-tab that supposedly has to be pushed, and then the booster twists and falls off. I made a tool to turn the booster, and brutalized it enough that I never did deliberately "release" the lock tab, which I couldn't get to anyway. Tool is ordinary steel channel, (angle-iron, or even flat steel bar would work as well.) three holes drilled. Center hole tapped, ran a flange-head bolt into it, cut off the excess threads from the rear, and welded the M-F'r into place. Drop the tool over the master-cylinder retaining studs. A long-handle ratchet and socket on the bolt head is enough to turn the booster. Close-up of the tapered slot that the lock-tab engages. Good luck getting to it. Which is why I just cranked the booster enough to pop it free. As you can see from the shape of the slot, you have to turn that side of the booster "down" to free the lock-tab on the booster from the bracket on the firewall. Lock-tab is easier to see on the "new" booster, left. Hangs straight down from the lower right rivet, in the photo. In this photo, the boosters are rotated 90 degrees, the lock-tabs should be horizontal, not vertical. I replaced the booster on both my '92 and my '93 Luminas. The brake-light switches at the brake pedal were different. Had lots of trouble getting the '92 re-adjusted. Had to completely remove the switch and re-set the position, install it, and THEN it self-adjusts to whatever it's supposed to be. Took me hours to figure it out. The '93 was "improved" and I don't remember it being any particular problem. As alluded to earlier...I'm convinced that 80%+ of the complaints of poor brakes on first-gen W-bodies is due to faulty boosters that only partially work. There's still some "assist", but not nearly what it's supposed to be. And the boosters pass all the usual tests, they're just under-powered. Replacing the boosters on my two cars made a HUGE difference in the braking power.

Friend of mine has an 06 Impala SS with the 5.3L ls4 in it. He got T-boned and they totaled the car. The 3.4L in my 92 Z34 has all but given up the ghost at 170xxx miles. I know I'm crazy, but how crazy would I be to try and shoe horn that engine into the Z34. I know ODB1 to OBDII and all that jazz...but would it fit and could it be done with only minor modifications.

https://www.w-body.com/topic/57578-ls4-swap-begins/

Step #1: Buy a new Swap Harness (if available) or an 1998 L36 LTZ/Z34 harness and C100 plug and get wiring yourself.

A clicker-type torque wrench is going to be way better than a beam. I've had apart a couple high-mileage LQ1s and as Schurkey has said, you'll probably find the valves need work. I would also second replacing the oil pump drive gasket whether it needs it or not since it's only accessible with the head off. You mentioned you know it needs valve stem seals. I bet if you look closely at the heads when they're off, you will find some valve guides have sunk into the ports, particularly the exhaust ones, which get much hotter than the intake. It's a big problem on the LQ1. It gets diagnosed as bad valve stem seals, but in reality the problem is the seals are just riding up and down with the valve since they aren't affixed (or aren't affixed well) to the guide. Any sunken guides will need replaced. When apart, I have always put snap rings all my guides, whether they're new or reused ones, before assembling so that they will never sink down into the head. You'll need a special tool to cut the groove in the guides for the snap ring, but a cylinder head machine shop should be able to do that for you. The bottom end of an LQ1 is stout they they last a long time with maintenance. My DD 96 Z34 is up 230k and runs great.

You need the following parts from a 98-99 Monte Carlo z34/ lumina ltz wiring harnesses power steering lines exhaust downpipe (or have one made) heater core hoses if possible the alternator bracket/tensioner for the right angle heater hose connectors under alternator not 100% needed but nice to have. Other items Need to use the inner axle cups from the donor car and the outer shafts of the original cutlass Motor mounts bolt in no issues Donor car rad and hoses work Donor car auto trans cooler lines work Need a pcm tune to disable VATS. Once you have the parts, pcm and the wiring harness figured out it’s drop in You need to use the original subframe The best advice I can give you for the wiring, and OBD2, is to get a factory service manual from the 98/98 monte carlo/Lumina and for your year of Cutlass. You'll need to spend time ensuring each wire at the C100 connector matches from the monte carlo harness to the dash harness of the cutlass. I would say 75% of the wires will be the same, and you'll need to move or add 25% of the wires. You will also need to run 2 wires inside the cab for the OBD port, and I ran one into the cab for the tach as well. Not sure if that is 100% needed, but it works for me! There used to be plenty of information out there on this swap. I'm not sure if the old forums or posts have disappeared but this should get you going in the right direction. Once you get working, I'm sure you'll come across specific issues, post them here and I'll do my best to help as I can. Also check out this guys thread, for some troubles with this swap and how to overcome them (not my thread, but it'll help you see what you're in for).

Mission complete!! I went to the junkyard today and found three cars with that mount. 1997 and 1999 Lumina, and a 1994 Grand Prix, All of them still had engines, I was hoping to find one that someone already pulled the engine from. Turned out to not be all that difficult to remove anyway, I just jacked up the engine with the scissor jack I found in the trunk (because they wouldn't let me bring in my own scissor jack!) and unbolted it. Comparison of the original mount on bottom and the new one: Notice the two holes for the subframe bolts are differently spaced. Fortunately my subframe had an additional hole there, so it fit with no trouble at all. Dogbones unhooked, engine mounted and off the hoist, everything just "at rest". Perfectly lined up!! Thank you, mfewtrail! Now on to the next mystery, exhaust. New thread coming soon...

IT RUNS!! Someone on another forum provided me with a newer program version for my PCM with VATS disabled in their software. I flashed it, and the car finally stays running!

Where in the 98 Lumina harness is the pin location to the PCM for that circuit? your schematic doesn't display it

There really aren't any super easy swaps. Regardless of which engine you use you are going to run into the same problems. It can be done, I put a L36 into a 90 grand prix myself, but it isn't easy.

You really need to search as this is one of the most documented swaps I can think of. Google is your friend. That being said.. There's nothing really to be gained from an L26, especially since you're going to need to end up buying an TB adapter and buy an L36 TB anyway.. just stick with the L36. You will also need the mounting brackets from a W car, along with the ICM/coil bracket since I'm relatively sure the H body ones will not fit into a 1G. I know the 1G cars use a doofy rear engine mount that that the 2Gs don't use, pretty sure you don't need it and can just use the front one. You will need to move to the W-body oil pan and engine mount bracket, and I'm pretty sure also the oil filter adapter. For controlling the engine, you need a donor harness. You could get this from a 96 Regal or 98-99 3800 Lumina/Monte which will get you OBD2 and tuning capabilities. You will need to play GM Legos at the junkyard and find some way to control the kickdown cable for the transmission, there might be some bolt-on solution for it, but I don't know.

Just put a 3800 out of a Lacrosse instead. Those were S3. Basically an updated 3800. As difficulty, it's the easiest swap you've asked about but it's not a simple swap. You'd need to play raider at the GM section of the junkyard. Basically you need a lot of stuff from the earlier W's that did have the 3800... so the 95-96 Buick Regal, the 97-99 Lumina/Monte Carlo and 97-03 Grand Prix will be your friend.

Another option for people searching this thread in the future is the old otc ABS Reader #3758 or 3757. The 3757 number just denotes that the tool comes with a case. There's a 3757 on ebay now for $99. They cover a lot of other obd1 vehicles as well. i have one and have used it on my TGP's and my parents 94 Regal.

Last I checked, for the 4T60-E's there were 6 versions. 1991-1993 CHEVY (3.1, 3.4 DOHC) 1991-1993 CADDY (4.5 and 4.9) 1991-1993 BUICK (3800) 1994-1997 CHEVY (3100, 3.4 DOCH til 1996, the 1997 DOHC was a 4T65-E) 1994-1996 CADDY (4.9 I think 1996 was the last year you could get a 4.9 in a caddy before being replaced with the 4.6 Northstar. If they had a 1997 4.9, I don't know what transmission it would have had) 1994-1996 or 1997 BUICK (3800). There is also a RARE 1993 Cutlass Supreme with a 3100. I am not sure which Version of the Transmission it got, but It was most likely the 1994-1997 CHEVY one. Differences are internal. the QDM's in the ECM/PCM that controls them are different between the 3 engine brands, so when trying to interchange. If you want PLUG N PLAY, you need specifics, otherwise, you have to crack open the sides, and swap out the valve bodies, and wiring. Not sure if people have found ways around them. My information is several years out of date from my foray into Lincoln Land.

Is your Trans in good shape? I swapped Series III using my 3:43 FDR Trans from LQ1. Used 1997 GP PCM with 96 harness, and had Milzy reprogram for 3:43. I have a post about differences

For the record, a 3.1/3.4 flexplate will bolt right up to a 3.8 torque converter

true. if you really want to wiggle you can leave the m/c in place. i was able to get the dohc out by about 1/8" with trans attached out the top. true, power steering pressure line is engine specific. the return would probably work but not totally sure.

You could also pull the brake master and dunk the thing in through the top Also probably need to swap power steering lines over.

real answer: drop the engine/trans/engine harness as a unit on the cradle. bolt it up under the lumina and plug the engine harness into the firewall(c100 connector). turn key and go. things that will need changed: heater hoses flexible fuel lines from rail to hard line exhaust downpipe to cat radiator hoses possibly throttle cable passenger side cv axle it's extremely straightforward, gen1 w bodies are so plug and play stuff is simple. the only reason i suggest cradle is because it's pretty easy to just drop the whole deal and leave the rack/struts hang on the car.

Well I've been driving the L26 with DOHC 3:43 trans a while. In town gas mileage ranges from 16-19 mpg pending how I drive. I've taken two trips and figured 25-27.5 MPG.

That trans bracket is used on all of the 98+ 3800 wbodies that I have worked on.

Id give anything to see what gm would have done to a w-body to make it rwd. It would be so interesting.

I substituted a 1991 euro cluster with oil pressure gauge in place of a regular cluster. The project vehicle is a 1992 lumina sedan. However, I have also dismantled the voltmeter (no oil-gauge) cluster and input the info I discovered on it as well. The info here can help you to make any lumina cluster work. Disclaimer: I don't know if the all 90-94 base clusters are identical, please check this against your wiring, before you start. 1990, 1991, and some early 1992 Euro rally clusters have oil gauges. all other 1992, 1993, and 1994 have voltmeters replacing the oil gauge. Their are 14 seperate clusters used in Luminas that I am aware of: 1990 base cluster: thin lined monstrosity, with a light gray background 1991 - 1994: base cluster with a black ground 1990 gauge cluster: thin lined monstrosity with oil gauge and tach 3.1 redline 1991 - mid 1992 gauge cluster with oil gauge and 3.1 tach redline 1991 - mid 1992 gauge cluster with oil gauge and 3.4 tach redline mid 1992 - 1994 gauge cluster with oil indicator, charge gauge and 3.1 tach redline mid 1992 - 1994 gauge cluster with oil indicator, charge gauge and 3.4 tachredline and then each of those is available in english and metric specifications. GEEZ!!! the shift indicator, or filler plate, is interchangeable between all the clusters. I repinned my own connector. with practice and a good narrow jewelers screw driver it's quite easy. Just remember to tweek the lock tangs to ensure they lock when you reinsert. I would snatch an extra instrument cluster pigtail before starting and practice depinning and reinstalling. I emptied an extra connector and transferred the wires one by one to prevent confusion. Additionally, this swap requires a new temperature and oil pressure sender (if oil gauge cluster) in place of the original switch. The harness connectors are identical. Remember the length of the oil sender for the gauge is about twice as long as switch for the base cluster. The top row is C, bottom row is D and they go 1-16, left to right. For the Base Cluster First number is the base cluster pin location. Then the wire color and description. The last number is where it has to be moved to in the euro cluster harness. 1990-1994 Lumina cluster base connector Pin# Wire color function bc-C1 --- not used bc-C2 --- not used bc-C3 PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) D4/D11 bc-C4 YEL/BLK Low Coolant indicator C16 bc-C5 TAN/WHT "Brake" Warning indicator D13 bc-C6 BRN charge indicator C15 bc-C7 DK GRN Coolant Temp indicator C7 bc-C8 --- not used bc-C9 BLK Ground C2/D6 bc-C10 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon" indicator D16 bc-C11 --- (low fuel indicator if equipped) bc-C12 LT GRN/BLK "ABS" indicator D13 bc-C13 PPL Fuel Gauge input from sender C5 bc-C14 --- not used bc-C15 --- not used(low oil, if equipped) bc-C16 LT BLU Left Turn signal indicator C9 bc-D1 TAN Oil Pressure Indicator(grounds to light if no pressure) C13 bc-D2 YEL Fasten Seatbelt indicator(grounds to light) C11 bc-D3 --- not used bc-D4 --- not used bc-D5 --- not used bc-D6 --- not used bc-D7 --- not used bc-D8 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) C3 bc-D9 --- not used bc-D10 --- not used bc-D11 --- not used bc-D12 BLK Ground C2/D6 bc-D13 DK GRN VSS speedometer input D5 bc-D14 --- not used bc-D15 DK BLU Right turn signal indicator D1 bc-D16 LT GRN High Beams indicator D2 Ok, here is the pinout for the Euro's fully instrumented cluster. First number is the base cluster location. Then the wire color and description. 1990-1994 Lumina Gauge cluster connector Pin# Wire color function ec-C1 ????????????????TAN/BLK possible shift indicator(if equipped) ec-C2 BLK Ground ec-C3 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) ec-C4 --- not used ec-C5 PPL Fuel Gauge input from sender ec-C6 --- not used ec-C7 DRK GRN Coolant Temperature gauge input from sender ec-C8 --- not used ec-C9 LT BLU Left Turn signal indicator ec-C10 --- not used ec-C11 YEL Fasten Seatbelt indicator ec-C12 --- not used ec-C13* TAN Oil Pressure sender(oil pressure gauge cluster) ec-C13* --- not used (voltmeter gauge cluster) ec-C14 --- not used ec-C15 BRN Charge indicator ec-C16 YEL/BLK Low Coolant indicator ec-D1 DK BLU Right Turn signal indicator ec-D2 LT GRN High Beams indicator ec-D3 ????????????????TAN/BLK (if equipped) shift indicator (if present) ec-D4 PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) ec-D5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input ec-D6 BLK Ground ec-D7 --- not used ec-D8 --- not used ec-D9 WHT Tach Signal (analog) ec-D10* TAN Oil Pressure indicator(voltmeter cluster) ec-D10* --- not used (oil gauge cluster) ec-D11 PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) ec-D12 --- not used ec-D13 TAN/WHT "Brake" Warning indicator ec-D14 --- not used ec-D15 LT GRN/BLK "ABS" indicator ec-D16 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon" indicator *difference in wiring reflecting the oil pressure to voltmeter revision. Make sure you hook your wires up correctly. Connector matching: ec-C2 BLK Ground bc-C9 or bc-D12 BLK Ground ec-C3 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) bc-D8 GRY Illumination (adjustable backlighting) ec-C5 PPL Fuel Gauge input from sender bc-C13 PPL Fuel Gauge input from sender ec-C7 DK GRN Coolant Temperature gauge input from sender bc-C7 DK GRN Coolant Temp indicator ec-C9 LT BLU Left Turn signal indicator bc-C16 LT BLU Left Turn signal indicator ec-C11 YEL Fasten Seatbelt indicator bc-D2 YEL Fasten Seatbelt indicator(grounds to light) ec-C13* TAN Oil Pressure sender(oil pressure gauge cluster) ec-D10* TAN Oil Pressure indicator(voltmeter cluster) bc-D1* TAN Oil Pressure Indicator(grounds to light if no pressure) ec-C15 BRN Charge indicator bc-C6 BRN charge indicator ec-C16 YEL/BLK Low Coolant indicator bc-C4 YEL/BLK Low Coolant indicator ec-D1 DK BLU Right Turn signal indicator bc-D15 DK BLU Right turn signal indicator ec-D2 LT GRN High Beams indicator bc-D16 LT GRN High Beams indicator ec-D4% PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) ec-D11% PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) bc-C3% PNK/BLK switched ignition feed, hot in run (+) ec-D5 DK GRN VSS speedometer input bc-D13 DK GRN VSS speedometer input ec-D6 BLK Ground bc-C9 or bc-D12 BLK Ground ec-D9 WHT Tach Signal (analog) must add from c100 or ICM ec-D13 TAN/WHT "Brake" Warning indicator bc-C5 TAN/WHT Brake Warning indicator ec-D15 LT GRN/BLK "ABS" indicator bc-C12 LT GRN/BLK "ABS" indicator ec-D16 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon" indicator bc-C10 BRN/WHT "Service Engine Soon" indicator *wire to match your donor cluster as needed. %the base cluster wire must be spliced to feed two connectors on the euro cluster. Not used: ec-C1 ????????????????TAN/BLK possible shift indicator(if equipped) ec-D3 ????????????????TAN/BLK (if equipped) shift indicator (if present) bc-C1 --- not used bc-C2 --- not used bc-C8 --- not used bc-C11 --- unused "low fuel" indicator bc-C14 --- not used bc-C15 --- not used(low oil, if equipped) bc-D3 --- not used bc-D4 --- not used bc-D5 --- not used bc-D6 --- not used bc-D7 --- not used bc-D9 --- not used bc-D10 --- not used bc-D11 --- not used bc-D14 --- not used ec-C4 --- not used ec-C6 --- not used ec-C8 --- not used ec-C10 --- not used ec-C12 --- not used ec-C13* --- not used (voltmeter guage cluster) ec-C14 --- not used ec-D7 --- not used ec-D8 --- not used ec-D10* --- not used (oil guage cluster) ec-D12 --- not used ec-D14 --- not used KEY: not used= no connection, no wire was present, if there is an optional light I listed it. (ie shift if equipped) For (bc-C3 Pink/Black - Ignition Power ec-D4/ec-D11) this power wire must be spit to have a second wire , as the base cluster has one socket and the full guage cluster has two. in a proper euro harness they link. For the tach, (ec-D9 White - Tach Wire, analog) this wire is absent from within the car. I discovered that the tack wire is a small gauge white wire in the harness that meets the firewall behind the alternator(the C100 connector). It does not continue past there into the body. Open up this wire loom and you’ll discover bunch of wires. Only about 5 are small gauge, and the white wire will be obvious. Link it from there and run it inside the car to the cluster. Be sure not to have it run where it will get damaged and shorted. Euro cluster ec-C13 and ec-D10 positions are two possible locations for the oil pressure wires. ec-C13 in for the guage, ec-D10 for the idiot light. This is the only know difference I have found between the two types of clusters. This is a possible difference, I didn't track this info very well, but Euro cluster D1 and C3 (ie Tan/Blk? ie shift indicator if equipped?) either appear to be possible locations where a manual trans car would have up-shift, or down-shift indicators. I didn't have a year break down for these, sorry. One last issue, some pins actually are identical to other pins, so a wire could be in a slightly different position (ie C7 instead of D7, fake example) this issue is usually the same number pin but different letter (ie C7=D7, or D13=C14, fake examples) This is visible on the back of the circuit board as the circuit line will run through both pins.

There was another thread that stockgp had detailing his swap. He had to fab up brackets to hold the dash to the firewall (it wasn't "plug-n-play.") I remember him saying the "saginaw" (round) column wouldn't bolt up to the dash support without major modification, either. FWIW, the slope of the windshield on the 95-01 Luminas was steeper than the earlier 1G W's. I remember that due to this, the dash in my old 96 Loomie was a tad bit longer than my Regal's dash. If it were me doing the swap, I'd go with a 94-96 GP dash. It's got the proper slope to the WS, and there are probably more of those in the boneyards anyway. Another bonus of the GP dash is you can easily add the HUD and trip computer (as everyone on this forum and their grandmother have done already ) You could get the GP door panels to work with the Lumina's doors due to the GP's and older Loomies having GM's wonderful "passive restraints" in the doors...

Yep, I've done much research on this. It's true, you do NOT want to get the L67 from anything other than a W-body unless you want to make more work for yourself (and nobody wants to do that). It can be done, but you'll be swapping a LOT of brackets and other misc pieces. The tach in the Cutlass Supreme with digital gauges cluster will NOT work after an L67 swap using the L67's PCM. This is probably the same with the 88-91 Regal digital gauges cluster since I believe it was also made by Nippon Denso. It WILL work fine if you have a 92+ with the analog dash and tach. Anyway, the Denso cluster gets its tach signal from the ALDL serial data line. The L67 PCM has this (they call it "UART serial data"). Problem is, the tach data is not present in the datastream. You COULD use a 3800 Series I SC PCM and it will probably have the tach signal... even that's not definite, but I think it does. However, you won't be able to use the 4T65-E tranny and the PCM's calibration isn't ideal for the engine, but it WILL work. You could also run the original ECM in parallel with the new PCM and just hook up enough wires to get a tach signal into the ECM, and the ECM will put the appropriate tach data onto the serial data line. Since the original poster wants to use a 5-speed, I think a 3800 Series I SC PCM would be the ideal way to go. Use the 3800 Series I SC PCM, wiring, etc. on the 3800 Series II SC engine. Make sure the PCM is a black sheetmetal formed box that looks like the old one. If it's a cast looking thing and much bigger than the old one, it's an OBD-II PCM which likely won't supply a tach signal on the serial data bus.