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Check how hot the auxillary battery terminal gets...mine would get hot and cause voltage drops until I replaced it...previous owners thought it was just going through alternators. I had one of the zinc ones (and one with the bottom threads stripped so it was had a couple of washers for spacers and what appeared to be a Delco radio post nut as well) and replaced it with brass...common issue on the B bodies too, and it's the same process and part number for replacement. Might not apply on a 2000, though... Replacing the Auxiliary Battery Post | Page 3 | Chevy Impala SS Forum

Please do. That slight voltage sag (dimming/fan speed drop) that took place above when the AC compressor kicked in is 100% normal operation for these cars in my view, and its just a byproduct of how the charging system is programmed to function. It can happen whenever a large electrical load comes on line at low RPM, and It is definitely visible in the headlights when they are on. My 2000 Regal did this all the time, and the factory alternator and the 6 year old battery were still fully functional when I got rid of that car in early 2015.

I'm going to be honest, I don't see an issue there. It cranked just fine, and the dip sounded like the AC compressor kicking on. The slight electrical dip is likely just a product of a slight lag between a large electrical load kicking in and the duty cycle of the alternator being increased adequately to compensate.

I'm going to differ with you on this Kyle....... what OP needs is the necessary A/C piping from a 1st Gen Regal with the 3.8 engine. If you intend on keeping as much as your car is currently fitted with you'll need the a/c compressor manifold hose assembly that was fitted to the 3.8 Regal & a new rebuilt pre 94 compressor. Everything prior to 94 is R12 based, everything post 93 is R134 based. When GM introduced 134 in 94 they changed ALL of the A/C line fittings thread pitch so NOTHING from prior & post can be used together. My suggestion to you is to keep your 92 car all 92, get that old 92 3.8 manifold hose assembly & purchase a new *rebuilt* pre 94 A/C compressor, even the manifold hose assembly changed in 94 because GM redesigned the back end of the compressor housing for 94 so the old manifold hose will not attach to the newer design compressor housing. Purchase yourself a new receiver/dryer as well as a new orifice tube. Go into Rockauto, search 92 Regal, they still house most of what you'll need.

Spoke to someone at Crutchfield yesterday, they are dual wired since the factory speakers came with 2 coils. With the speakers these days having only one coil, I will only need to hook up 2 of the 4 leads. The lead I do not use can just be disconnected at the plug (good thing I had the sense to re-wire the leads with plugs instead of not using them). I went for a set of Infinity speakers this time around and I sure do hope they last longer than the prior ones.

That gear drive actuator you replaced controls hot to cold blend. There is a vacuum switch behind the glove box that sends vacuum to separate vacuum doors to control what vent the air comes from. That black plastic vacuum line that powers the vacuum doors goes through the fire wall between the master cylinder and the strut tower. This is what the vacuum door controller looks like. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=14268801&cc=1021374&pt=7036&jsn=531

You should be able to get at both sides of the heater core...return is at the front of the engine, that long steel piping that follows along the right side frame rail that sweeps upwards to the coolant pump manifold, the inlet side is right beside the brake vacuum booster, a short hose that passes overtop of the master cyl reservoir slipping over the steel supply pipe from the bottom of the thermostat housing.

Check where your positive battery cable goes to the fusebox on the drivers side under the hood. It is common for the nut to be loose or the connection to be dirty and cause all sorts of weird electrical issues

What I used for bushings is simple rubber vibration isolator pad material (the pad was approx 12" square), up here we have a *Princess Auto* hardware/automotive supply store, Harbor Freight *might* have something similar, using my table saw I cut the bushings to the same basic shape as the original molded bushing glued to the leaf & removed the material in the inner section to make the *pocket*. One has to do them in two pieces (upper & lower). One can *fine tune* the installed height of the new spring by adjusting the upper bushings thickness, but both bushings have to be no thicker than necessary to allow the spring to go into place & tighten up the lower mounting retainer to let it bottom against the stop. Seeing as the blank leaves are 3" wide (that's wider than the glas leaf in the centre section at the mounting points) I used my 5" angle grinder with a flap wheel to notch small recesses into the edges of the steel where the pads will go to allow the mounting bolts to slide up either side of the leaves up into the subframe member. All of this wasn't difficult, it just took time & patience. If you've never removed the rear leaf without the special spring compressor there is a way to get it out without to much fuss.

The Monte. This was a long time ago and it's putting out less now for sure.

3.5l LZ4 with an F23 in a FWD race car. Port work, WOT-Tech VVT Delete with Big Race Cam Kit. 75mm Throttle Body, Megasquirt MS3X. All credit to Dan @ R&R Motorsports for putting this together and sharing the results.

I just figured it out! Got the GXP brackets and calipers from NAPA. They cut the mounting part off and drilled/tapped new mounting holes.

HERE'S MY CAR AFTER ALL THE VISUAL UPGRADES

1993 3.4 DOHC in an 88 Fiero with a Getrag 282 5-speed. The graph says "Flywheel horsepower" but we set the correction factor to "1.0" which means no correction, so this is at the wheels. The 10ft-lb torque dip corresponds to a bad AFR there; I still have to tune it. Engine details: 1993 3.4 DOHC, balanced and blueprinted... Ok, more details: 91 Beretta iron flywheel (16 lbs), Sealed Power hypereutectic pistons with coated skirts, balanced rotating assembly, .030" overbore, honed with a torque plate, exhaust valve guides tightened up a bit, opened the bottom ring gaps to prevent flutter, gasket matched the lower intake manifold, custom upper intake manifold (shorter runners, direct shot from the TB to the runners), stock throttle body, stock ECM, stock injectors, stock cam timing, 3" cold air intake with K&N cone filter, 2.5" exhaust with Magnaflow cat and Spintech muffler. Pic so you can see the intake setup:

That's the one. It looks like you took care of it with your wiring upgrade though.

And it worked as designed yesterday...