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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/11/2025 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. Schurkey

    1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes

    What they liked the best: The brakes. What folks complain about the most on this site: The brakes. I've said it before, I'll say it again: The biggest problem with Gen 1 brakes is not the brakes per se, it's the brake booster.
    2 points
  3. Psych0matt

    1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes

    "Automatic shoulder belts"
    2 points
  4. Black92GS

    1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes

    Gotta love that quality 80s GM fit and finish! And that Regal is very oddly equipped. Bench seat, manual locks and windows, no rear reading lights.....but it has alloy wheels. Then there is this: That cluster must be from a pre-production vehicle, as the tach was never red like that on any of the production ones. My old 88 Regal was a November 87 build, and the tach was green like the rest of the cluster.
    2 points
  5. 55trucker

    Mono spring delete or suggestions

    This is the formula I used to get the basics for for I wanted....in hindsight it is a bit too stiff, on the highway the springrate is great, car does NOT float, corners reallly well, but where potholes are concerned its a bit harsh. My thinking now that it's been 2 years since I installed it the springrate could be dropped to perhaps 280lbs per inch. The shop owner who fabbed this up did it from the original *high arc* leaf. He used regular *shallow* arc leaves (blank leaves are all arced to a basic curve) to start with, cut them to the length as per the formula, then put each one thru the *hammer* to together match what the ride height the car is at when the glas leaf was in place with the cars weight on it. Of course I had him reduce the arc as the car sits approx 1.7" lower. That means you have to get under the car to measure the curve of the glas leaf when it is under the vehicle weight. Do so from the ends of the leaf to the centre section. I just used a long straight edge, laid it up under the spring ends & took a measurement in the centre. Since I was doing all the *bull work* I had to install, test the ride height, uninstall, go back a couple of times to have him *fine tune* the arc to get all where I wanted it. One has to fab up their own rubber bushings for this.......not hard to do, just takes time cutting them to fit. *Note* to do this the exhaust has to be out of the way.
    1 point
  6. 94 olds vert

    1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes

    When I first saw this I was wondering why this logo was placed on the door handle.
    1 point
  7. Black92GS

    1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes

    I saw that as well. From what I have found, the original air date of that episode was the week of October 7th, 1987. Highly likely that those are pre-production Cutlasses that were filmed. The Regal footage is likely a production model since they were the first to go on sale in October. That Regal digital dash footage has to be from a pre-production car though. Either that, or GM made a production change extremely early in the product run to change the tach from red/orange to green.
    1 point
  8. rcLord510

    1988 MW with John Davis discussing the GM10 coupes

    Never seen that olds logo on the b pillar like that, and on the SL too
    1 point
  9. GtpKo

    It's begun! - 2nd Gen W-Body 3800 5-speed F23 Swap

    Nothing really. Nothing of that sort is absolutely necessary for a manual swap. All that is necessary is to get rid of the trans stuff so you don't have a constant 6+ error codes and MIL light. Even that isn't really necessary as you can drive fine with no tune changes as long as the PCM is wired to think it's in D at all times. I'm going to leave fueling and timing up to a ZZP remote tune once I switch over to E85, no sense in messing with it now. Other than that, I think the F23 speed sensor is slightly off from the 4T65E as it would read 70 when I was going 73-74, so I adjusted that to match GPS speed. On a side note, I have been looking into extending the clutch master cylinder rod about 1" behind the clutch pedal as the pedal hits the firewall before it's fully pressed, so it might only be 90% released each time which I hope isn't causing extra wear.
    1 point
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