Leaderboard

Yeahhh.........

Finally......a clutch kit. I'll be bringing the Monte back home to tear into it soon.

You could remove the silly thing altogether & pick up a complete rear stabilizer bar for the platform & install that. It would make a world of difference where the rear handling is concerned.

Check out that thread.

The ABS VI system is a decent system, unlike it's predecessor it's basically trouble-free. Many Gen 2 cars make use it as well. The bIg difference in the 2 designs for the master is the number of ports. The non abs unit has 4 threaded ports whereas the abs units have only 2 threaded ports. Where the ABS equipped car are concerned the master has eliminated the built in proportioning valve assembly (the internals were simply removed) but the non ABS master does. The proportioning valves are under those two large caps screwed into the master body. What I do not know is whether or

That's quite right, the castings for both the block & heads are significantly different, to the best of my remembering the engine mount bosses are cast into the block at the same location.

Today my fiance and my friend Chris helped me get the engine back in with the trans attached back through the top. I will never do a v6 without a hoist again lol, this was no subaru. Hopefully tomorrow I will have it driveable, I want to make a video of the startup and post it to youtube. Honestly, if I had to do it agin, I would video document everything, there really is no content on youtube about the technical mumbo jumbo for the LQ1. I cant wait to feel its power, my mother did not know this car was fast, she never matted the pedal. I will be looking for a white top, the framework for it,

Ya that’s it. Nothing to buy anywhere that I looked except OEM cats. No big deal if I can get one and sandblast it and paint etc that’s all I’m after. Have you ever taken yours off?

Final update for the job; yup, finished off the other side in no time at all. Took the car on the highway and at first wasn’t sure what to think but by the end of the ride the difference/improvement was apparent. I hear there may be some break in time also. The rear end has a slightly more aggressive and attractive stance than before (sorry, a bit dark by the time I snapped photo). I think having done this now makes it more obvious that the front struts need doing too! Got those too but need to figure out the special tool situation. Suppose it’s possible the rear leaf spring or its bushin

Already a big difference and I can see why that step is crucial. 3/8 is apparently what fits in mine (possibly these were replaced in the past?) for anyone reading this in the future if you’re having difficulties. It’s also a good thing I picked up a second longer bolt as the shorter one only catches on one side, at least after being partially taken apart. One question I have is whether there’s an ideal height to compress them to in order to bang the lower fasteners. Hopefully will have them out before anyone sees this. I guess this piece of junk wasn’t seized, just stuck in place by

Yep just a plain 4 door 96 Regal with no rear sway bar. Here is a picture of the bolt that I used to compress that rubber damper thing. I used a Chevy rocker arm ball instead of washers. The 10 x 1.5 mm fits so tight you can save yourself a lot of trouble and use the 3/8 x 16 threads per inch bolt.

I take it that your Regal has the FE1 suspension & does not have installed a rear stabilizer bar? As far as I remember those auxiliary dampeners were a poor mans anti-roll bar. They were there to add some anti roll capabilities to the rear suspension. When cornering the load on the outboard side of the car will cause the car to lean down & the opposite side would raise up, the dampener load increases when the rear inboard (body connection end) lateral link pivots upwards, and the reverse happens when the inboard lateral link end pivots downwards. They had nothing to do w

The correct bolt should be a 10 x 1.5 mm (about) 6 inch long all thread bolt. Years ago when I did my rear struts I could only fins a 3/8 x 16 sae 6 inch bolt and it worked just fine. The bolt does not thread all the way through, see first picture. That arm does NOT have a hole in it under the bracket.

The bolts included with the Monroe Quick-Struts I replaced on my 1992 Cutlass Supreme coupe were useless for their intended purpose. One was too short (yes, the struts did not include identical bolts) and the other one seemed long enough but it just wouldn't thread into the bracket. I ended up purchasing a Kent-Moore auxiliary spring compressor on eBay and it was worth every penny. Those auxiliary springs are a bitch. You'll see what I'm talking about once you get the bracket and spring off, because they have to come off to replace the strut anyway. I'm hoping my Grand Prix and Lumina Z34

My strut mounts were pretty shot so I didn't even bother disassembling the strut from the mount when I removed them. The only thing I can really tell you to help is that the nut on the top side is a 24mm, at least the ones that came with my KYBs are.

Can you re-use the old bolt?

I replaced all 4 struts in my '96 Grand Prix coupe last year. I don't remember needing any specific tools for removing the rear struts, however for the front ones I had to buy a specific toolkit off ebay.

Found another guaranteed culprit on this no start situation. Injector #1 measured out at 1.6 ohms where all the others measure at 12.7. I hooked up the injector to my injector tester and hit the multi fire test button and it’s completely dead. All the others fire just fine but not going to chance it so I’ve ordered 6 new injectors. Will be interesting to see how it runs after I replace both bad parts. Ill have to remove the Fuel rail but the FPR is a really tight fit so will make that a breeze now that the rail is coming off. more beer for me! And I’ll have a chance to paint some

This is just how I do it. All in all it’s a 3 beer job?

Torque converter clutches cause stalling at very low speed, like when the car comes to a stop. Which is why they're always disabled in first gear. They do NOT cause stalling at highway speed like you described. The trans will run hot when the converter clutch is NOT locked up, because most of the heat in a transmission is created by the fluid in the torque converter getting churned around until the molecules get dizzy. When the converter clutch is engaged, the fluid isn't being churned--so there's little heat generated. Disabling the torque converter clutch was a TERRIBLE idea. Do n