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Well I cant wait any longer for you guys. 23.5 years is a bit long to make a guy hang on. So I just went ahead and got it myself.

Good day, I have been a W body enthusiast since high school 04. In my student parking lot, we had a 93 Gran prix, 94 olds cutlass supreme, 94 cavalier z24, 95 monte, and my lumina z34. These cars were everywhere! My first car was a 94 lumina z34 (still have it). In 2012 I put a 4.9 PFI in it and it is almost complete. I just need to replace the rear suspension and odds and ends. I have a 99 Monte (needs some work), and I just picked up a decent (needs some work) Cutlass supreme. I am buying a new top for the cutlass on Friday. I want to get black canvass instead of the white (the car has black leather interior). They come in black, grey, white, red. What do you all think would be the best color? Just curious. Very few of these ole buggies still around (at least in my area). I thought I would join the forum to see what you all are up to (I feel very late to the party). I already have seen some super nice examples of these cars (nice job everyone!). Ill post more as spring hits and I can get them out, and work on them more. Also, not adverse to loading them up on the trailer for any meets that might happen. Thank you! Hope you all have a wonderful day!

Welcome! I think black top will look great on it. Better late than never! Not as bustling as it was back in the day, but there's a few of us W-body old timers left. I wouldn't mind seeing pics of the 4.9L in a W-body.

anyways, welcome to the site.

Hey everyone, My name’s Ryan, I’m from Long Island, NY, and I’m new to the Monte Carlo platform. I recently picked up a 2003 Monte Carlo SS and I’m excited to finally start a build thread and be part of the community. By trade I’m a licensed marine engineer, so I’m very hands-on mechanically and enjoy learning the technical side of things. On the automotive side, I’ve worked on and tuned a variety of platforms, everything from basic bolt-ons and wiring to full tuning using HP Tuners, Hondata, and standalone setups. I enjoy both the mechanical and tuning sides of builds and documenting the process. For the Monte, the plan is to start simple, catch up on maintenance, fix worn components, and do some basic bolt-ons while I sort out the body and cosmetics. Once the chassis and body are in better shape, the goal is to turn things up. I’m currently torn between a Gen V M90 top swap or going turbo, but either way the end goal is a "reliable", fun street car that still rips when you get into it. I’ll be sharing progress, asking questions, and learning as I go. Looking forward to seeing everyone’s builds and being part of the community.

Hi, I’ve just stumbled onto this forum, and i figure I’ll probably need to post here eventually acquired my luminator last year, 2nd owner from a grandma. 70000 (got w 55000)miles. Here’s some pics; thx yall

UPDATE: the car is going to the mechanic on 2/23 for this job. It will be going to a chevy dealer whose mechanic has decades of experience which is exactly what I was looking for. This mechanic is semi-retired and picks & chooses the jobs he wants to do. When he learned I'm the original and 4th owner he took the job. I was asked to supply all the parts which I think I will need. Included with these parts will be a new EGR valve and a new Low Coolant Sensor (due to the coolant being partially drained). I made a copy of Gnat's photo so thanks again for this. I will be seeing how the mechanic feels about just going the RTV route in lieu of pulling the rear head. Not only will the job be alot cheaper, I'd really prefer not opening that Pandora's box of potential additional issues if the head needs to be taken off.

Thanks all for this. As of the moment the car is in storage do it will be a while before I can check it out, but I will say I get more & more confident this will be the cause. It has been happening for a long time. Form the day I bought this car in Oct., 1994, I always wondered where a quart of oil was going every 1000 miles or so. My money is on this as pictured above, it was probably badly sealed to begin with. And these things don't get better, only worse. I went in and checked my 2020 repair bills from when I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced. The mechanic also replaced the gasket for the part 10130955 as you see in the photo but no mention is made on whether the distributor plug seal was addressed so I am going to assume it was not. While it's a shame all that work that was done to the motor back then would have to be re-done just to get at what needs to be repaired, so be it. Even if I decide to get the rear head pulled to replace the O-ring rather than trying my luck with sealant, that's still way better than having the entire motor pulled. I might as well go the whole 9 yards and have both head gaskets replaced for a one and done job. I should be getting the car out of storage within the next few weeks, I'll keep all posted on how things progress, and thanks again, much appreciated!

You're in the right place because we love our W-bodies here. Welcome!

Wow, that's awesome!

Got the fuel line disconnected and fuel can ready to go but no go on the fuel pump. Do I have it wrong here? The car has been sitting for 6 weeks so the battery may be weak but radio turns on. Edit nevermind I'm an idiot i see the number on bottom of relay and i had it wrong Works like a charm thanks all

Damn, that's a rare one!

I wanna see pictures of the Gran Prix, never seen one before! /s Welcome!

Does the pump run? If it does, unhook a fuel line under the hood and jump the fuel pump relay.

If it were me I'd pull it... but I also wouldn't worry too much about seeing it neatly tied up and disconnected at both ends if I were a buyer. It was the style at the time to run aftermarket stereos in nearly everything, so I consider it to be remanent of a former, period correct modification.

Agree. As I always say, your car, your call. Do it for what you want rather than what the next owner may (or may not) want. I myself am after the total factory look, but if I can hide something that will otherwise give it the factory look, that's good news. I've replaced my Retrosound rear speakers with another aftermarket brand set that fits into the hole and under the grille sufficiently. They get hit by the sun with that huge rear window so I avoided a paper coned speaker with something more durable. I'm loathing replacing the door panel speakers, but as soon as II find that set of correct NOS ones I've got in storage somewhere, I've got a job to do............

The thought here was that you don't drive your W's in the winter.

Unfortunately its the opposite of that pre-conceived notion of the south, they spread that stuff anytime the temp gets close to 32F overnight and its wet out. Ive researched a bit more into the options available and will go with the coated PowerStop kit from RA. Just trying to generate some conversation I guess...

A maroon or dark green GS, tan interior and tinted windows with "Buick" mud flaps hits a 99-04ish nostalgia spot. Would still have to have those logo puddle lights though.

It's that time. The oil leak in the rear main seal of my 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL with the 3.4L motor has gotten so bad that it needs to come out for repairs. In addition to this being in need of replacement, I am going to have the oil pan gasket replaced as well, along with the 3 coils and the alternator while the motor is out of the car. In addition to that, is there anything else anyone can think of that should be replaced while the motor is out, as this would be a golden opportunity to get it done. The engine compartment will also be degreased to clean up the big mess this leak has been making. It does not need a timing belt, water pump, or any intake manifold work as this was all done 5 years and 10,000 miles ago and no issues here.

I was able to replace the o-ring and add an extra gasket with the information from the old double gasket thread all without removing the rear head. I also put RTV on it and it never leaked in the 10+ years I owned the car after the repair.

One should have the service manual within reach for electrical diagnosis.

You are correct on that point, I will be checking my local independent shops to see if they want the job. Not everyone wants to work on these. The first thing I will hear is the job would cost more than the car is worth. I bought this car new in 1994. I gave it to my dad in 2012 who in turn sold it to my brother in 2018. My brother did a swell job of running it into the ground, but when my dad passed away 1/2020 my brother didn't want the car anymore and showed up at my house a month or so later and handed me the keys. That makes me the 1st and 4th owner. There is no mechanic on this earth that's going to be successful in convincing me that any job needed to be done on this car will exceed its value. I watched a 24 minute video earlier today on how to do this job. II won't be doing it as a result of watching it. These videos are valuable in that respect as well.

Wow, you've almost had that car as long as I've had my 89 Cutlass! Can't remember if I got mine in late 93 or early 94. Yes, that seal goes bad in all of them. Not if, but when. Rear main seal is rare. Oil pump drive O-rings going bad I'd say is 100% rate. If you were going to DIY it, I'd say don't worry about pulling the rear head. I owned my 94 for 12-years and my fudge-fix lasted for most of that time up to the day I sold the car. If you're having a shop do it, I imagine the intake manifold R&R itself isn't cheap, so I can understand wanting to do the head gaskets at the same time so as not to have to pay for a repeat job in the future. However, head gaskets on a DOHC V-engine sounds like it could be quite expensive labor-wise.

I've ground the top ridge of the pump drive down slightly to allow for more room to work, then use a distributer gasket for a Lumina van with a 3.1, just give it a cut and slather it in RTV, seems to work well. and I'll be damned if I'm pulling a head just for that.

It's in the valley right by where the transmission and engine block are joined together. Oil will pool around the distributor plug (also called "oil pump drive") and run down the side right where the transmission mates to the block so where it drips on the ground looks very much like a rear main seal. An O-ring goes bad on it allowing it to leak. Shine a flashlight down there, and if there's oil pooled in that area, that's your culprit. Unfortunately, yes, it's blocked by the rear head. What most people do is lift it up as high as possible and clean it and the block as well as possible. Some sandwich a thin O-ring under it, others RTV it. My memory is hazy, but I think I may have done both. On my pic, high pressure oil-resistant RTV is the stuff kind of squishing out from under it. It's dirty because this was many years later, but it worked great. Official GM procedure is to pull the rear head, but that's way, way too much trouble.

I bought some decades ago to do the same thing, but never got around to it. I was going to try to mod them for 6.5" speakers and needed a plan for how to mod the buckets, but in the modern day, it would make more sense to 3D print some custom ones rather than mod the OEM ones as I wanted to use the OEM grilles which are flat against the trim panel. I can't find them at the moment or I'd snap a pic. As for prewired, my 89 wasn't prewired, but different years might do things differently.

This is the only device that will separate the fuel line from the rail.... there is another method you might try.... raise the car up high enough to get under comfortably & disconnect the fuel filter from the fuel line (one end of the filter makes used of threaded connection , the other end is the same ac/fuel line quick disconnect slip-on connection). Once again run a length of hose long enough to clear the car & fill a gas container to drain the tank.

The fuel lines that feed the fuel rail are not screw on nut fittings, both the pressure & the return are disconnected with a set of fuel line/ac disconnect tools. The pressure line is near the centre at the back of the engine. One pulls off the engine cover & you'll see the fuel rail. Once you've disconnected the line you'll need a lengthy section of garden hose to slip over the fuel line end & tape it up to prevent any leaking & feed it into a container size of your choosing. Now you can bypass the relay to power up the fuel pump to drain the tank.

there should be a loose red wire near the relay jump that to the positive post and it should turn the fuel pump on

Hi guys, I'm still alive and well and still have dome light switches! The site used to send me an email when someone posted on this thread, not sure if that doesn't work anymore? My direct email is mezz@benris.com if anyone else is still looking or switches.

not even a difference ABS/non abs on the gen1 front knuckles. the sensor is separate of the wheel hub - why gm couldn't have continued this into the later cars is beyond me. buy whichever brand you determine to be the highest quality or fits within your budget

Thank you(I hope I replied to your comment the right way) will definitely taking care of her best I can. As per my city; I’m located in Philadelphia.

I guess I've been here long enough to say this, why are we bumping 15 year old threads? I didn't even read the comment, but it sounds like it's a bot that is advertising.

Ok, that's a start, that PCM is programmed to control a CVC compressor, (compact variable compressor), did you pull the supercharged powertrain from the same 2004 Impala vehicle including that compressor?

I'm going to differ with you on this Kyle....... what OP needs is the necessary A/C piping from a 1st Gen Regal with the 3.8 engine. If you intend on keeping as much as your car is currently fitted with you'll need the a/c compressor manifold hose assembly that was fitted to the 3.8 Regal & a new rebuilt pre 94 compressor. Everything prior to 94 is R12 based, everything post 93 is R134 based. When GM introduced 134 in 94 they changed ALL of the A/C line fittings thread pitch so NOTHING from prior & post can be used together. My suggestion to you is to keep your 92 car all 92, get that old 92 3.8 manifold hose assembly & purchase a new *rebuilt* pre 94 A/C compressor, even the manifold hose assembly changed in 94 because GM redesigned the back end of the compressor housing for 94 so the old manifold hose will not attach to the newer design compressor housing. Purchase yourself a new receiver/dryer as well as a new orifice tube. Go into Rockauto, search 92 Regal, they still house most of what you'll need.

Yeah, that makes it sound even more like the brake lights are the turn signal switch in the column... 1994-2001 Gen 1 and Gen 1.5 Turn Signal Switch Replacement | W-BodyTech Forums But that shifting thing...are you able to turn the key and move the steering wheel? Can you shift out of park with the steering wheel unlocked but with engine off?

What they liked the best: The brakes. What folks complain about the most on this site: The brakes. I've said it before, I'll say it again: The biggest problem with Gen 1 brakes is not the brakes per se, it's the brake booster.

"Automatic shoulder belts"

I think youd have to do it by generation, as there are some significant changes by generation as well as intent (when you get to the later years there was more of a focus on handling handling vs the earlier focus on comfort handling). In addition, its important to consider that skidpad Gs do not equal handling. Ive driven race cars that would do an epic skidpad number but are so ill handling in transition/under braking/whatever, that they are virtually undriveable. I have the most experience with 1st gen w-bodies, and my vote there would be for the FE3 level Grand Prix coupe with the 245 wide tires. Though I suspect/wonder if the 1990 olds international with FE3 and the quad 4 would be the ultimate iteration for handling. Ive never driven one (almost nobody has) so I cant say definitively, hence my mention above of the 245 tire equipped GP. For gen 1.5, Im not sure. For the last generation, its most likely the 2008 GP GXP. The fact they fitted reverse stagger tires (and engineered the suspension to utilize this setup) tells me someone understood how to make an FWD car handle.

You should be able to OBD2 swap if you want to go that route, but I'm not sure how possible tuning is with the current options besides what GTP091 mentioned. DHP can still be obtained, but support isn't what it used to be. redzmonte had a turbo 3.4 95 Monte that he swapped the OBD1.5 to OBD2 and tuned. I had tuned my 96 3.4 GP with DHP years ago. I believe you can run a 97 PCM and use HPT, who supports 97+ 3.4 Montes, so I'm not sure how that would work. edit: after some research, looks like you can buy the DHP interface from the original manufacturer (AVT) and it SHOULD work. Setting up DHP on a Windows 10 laptop is a bit of a chore. http://www.avt-hq.com/852_hw.htm http://www.avt-hq.com/price.htm

91 auto which is what I have in my 91 GP is the AYSZ, AUSJ is the T code engine (3.1) W body for 91, AUBU is the T code engine W body for 93 auto trans these all come out of the 16149396 ECM I have nothing on the ASXJ

AYSZ = 1992 LQ1/Auto BBUK = 1993 LQ1/Manual BCFA = 1991 LQ1/Manual BCFA is the one you'll want to use

The 4 memcal's used with the 91-93 LQ1 are AYSZ, BBUK, BCDT & BCFA. BBUK is the early manual trans memcal, & BCFA or *1441* is the later manual trans memcal.

If you use your resources correctly, you can get a 3800 for the same price as the 3400. The smart thing would be to look for an S3 and then get an S2 UIM to make it all work. Anyways, the flywheel between the engines are the same. Both used the same 4T65-E trans. The motor mounts should be the same as well. My understanding is that the blocks are the same but the internals are what differentiate them from a 3.1 liter and a 3.4 liter.

Use the trans that is in the 88 and the ecm from the 2.8 as well. If the 95 doesn't have the coolant temp sensor for the Guage/light in the rear head you will have to install a 3 wire temp sensor where the 2 wire is. The throttle cable from the 95 is needed as well. If your '88 has a 3spd you will have to rig up a kick down cable linkage on the throttle body some how. I welded a bracket to the throttle body myself, wasn't perfect but it made it drivable. Sure there may be some other things that I'm missing since it has been about 6 years since I swapped my old lumina!

The '93 3100 used the exact same ECM as the 94-95 models.

LOL I drove a quad 4 Grand prix. it was actually pretty quick. That was one of the VERY few quad 4 w-bodies i have seen. I would like to get my hands on one of thoes. Turbo Quad 4 GTP. i think the one i drove was a 1992 or a 1993 (not sure on the year anymore). it was blue (Very nice condition). It seemed quicker then i bet it actually was. I assume that maybe due to gear ratios being lower so it has more off the line get-up. RedZ

I would probably keep it as-is just for the novelty of it! A Quad4 W-body is rare enough, a Quad4 5-speed is extremely rare!

OMG tom lets buy that car....since I could use it for a parts car