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Yeahhh.........

Finally......a clutch kit. I'll be bringing the Monte back home to tear into it soon.

You could remove the silly thing altogether & pick up a complete rear stabilizer bar for the platform & install that. It would make a world of difference where the rear handling is concerned.

Check out that thread.

And major Props for keeping the LQ1 man. Maybe you’ll be able to put collector plates on it? Not sure how the US works that out but should be cheap insurance if you can.

I imagine the engine is completely intact? If it was running well when you pulled the cradle I’d check for leaks and leave it be otherwise. check: the timing belt condition. If it’s frayed or showing it’s age, or any cracks, replace it. So much easier to do out of the car. pesky distributor o ring is a leak nightmare but if it’s dry leave it. It’s under the plenum and serviceable in the car if it does leak. (Search - there’s a sticky) Did the exhaust manifolds leak? If so replace the gaskets while it’s out. did you measure the charging voltage? The alternator i

Sorry I haven't been back for awhile. I'm still making progress, slowly but surely. I was waiting on all my engine parts, and still waiting on the clutch kit, though I was informed as of 7-19, it was "shipped". We'll see. Anyway, The engine is mostly assembled. I completely tore down the engine harness to rebuild from scratch. I can't go much further as I'll be integrating it with the existing Z34 chassis/ engine bay harness. I wanted to get as far along as I could before filling my garage with another car.

Ordered the FPR, seals, and injector seals. Already have the Plenum gaskets. will keep tinkering around with other things while I wait. Glad it’s not my daily driver

The ABS VI system is a decent system, unlike it's predecessor it's basically trouble-free. Many Gen 2 cars make use it as well. The bIg difference in the 2 designs for the master is the number of ports. The non abs unit has 4 threaded ports whereas the abs units have only 2 threaded ports. Where the ABS equipped car are concerned the master has eliminated the built in proportioning valve assembly (the internals were simply removed) but the non ABS master does. The proportioning valves are under those two large caps screwed into the master body. What I do not know is whether or

That's quite right, the castings for both the block & heads are significantly different, to the best of my remembering the engine mount bosses are cast into the block at the same location.

Today my fiance and my friend Chris helped me get the engine back in with the trans attached back through the top. I will never do a v6 without a hoist again lol, this was no subaru. Hopefully tomorrow I will have it driveable, I want to make a video of the startup and post it to youtube. Honestly, if I had to do it agin, I would video document everything, there really is no content on youtube about the technical mumbo jumbo for the LQ1. I cant wait to feel its power, my mother did not know this car was fast, she never matted the pedal. I will be looking for a white top, the framework for it,

Ya that’s it. Nothing to buy anywhere that I looked except OEM cats. No big deal if I can get one and sandblast it and paint etc that’s all I’m after. Have you ever taken yours off?

Final update for the job; yup, finished off the other side in no time at all. Took the car on the highway and at first wasn’t sure what to think but by the end of the ride the difference/improvement was apparent. I hear there may be some break in time also. The rear end has a slightly more aggressive and attractive stance than before (sorry, a bit dark by the time I snapped photo). I think having done this now makes it more obvious that the front struts need doing too! Got those too but need to figure out the special tool situation. Suppose it’s possible the rear leaf spring or its bushin

Already a big difference and I can see why that step is crucial. 3/8 is apparently what fits in mine (possibly these were replaced in the past?) for anyone reading this in the future if you’re having difficulties. It’s also a good thing I picked up a second longer bolt as the shorter one only catches on one side, at least after being partially taken apart. One question I have is whether there’s an ideal height to compress them to in order to bang the lower fasteners. Hopefully will have them out before anyone sees this. I guess this piece of junk wasn’t seized, just stuck in place by

Yep just a plain 4 door 96 Regal with no rear sway bar. Here is a picture of the bolt that I used to compress that rubber damper thing. I used a Chevy rocker arm ball instead of washers. The 10 x 1.5 mm fits so tight you can save yourself a lot of trouble and use the 3/8 x 16 threads per inch bolt.

I take it that your Regal has the FE1 suspension & does not have installed a rear stabilizer bar? As far as I remember those auxiliary dampeners were a poor mans anti-roll bar. They were there to add some anti roll capabilities to the rear suspension. When cornering the load on the outboard side of the car will cause the car to lean down & the opposite side would raise up, the dampener load increases when the rear inboard (body connection end) lateral link pivots upwards, and the reverse happens when the inboard lateral link end pivots downwards. They had nothing to do w

The correct bolt should be a 10 x 1.5 mm (about) 6 inch long all thread bolt. Years ago when I did my rear struts I could only fins a 3/8 x 16 sae 6 inch bolt and it worked just fine. The bolt does not thread all the way through, see first picture. That arm does NOT have a hole in it under the bracket.

The bolts included with the Monroe Quick-Struts I replaced on my 1992 Cutlass Supreme coupe were useless for their intended purpose. One was too short (yes, the struts did not include identical bolts) and the other one seemed long enough but it just wouldn't thread into the bracket. I ended up purchasing a Kent-Moore auxiliary spring compressor on eBay and it was worth every penny. Those auxiliary springs are a bitch. You'll see what I'm talking about once you get the bracket and spring off, because they have to come off to replace the strut anyway. I'm hoping my Grand Prix and Lumina Z34

My strut mounts were pretty shot so I didn't even bother disassembling the strut from the mount when I removed them. The only thing I can really tell you to help is that the nut on the top side is a 24mm, at least the ones that came with my KYBs are.

Can you re-use the old bolt?

I replaced all 4 struts in my '96 Grand Prix coupe last year. I don't remember needing any specific tools for removing the rear struts, however for the front ones I had to buy a specific toolkit off ebay.

(1) What year/model is the car you're working on? (2) Does your rear suspension have a sway bar or what GM referred to as "auxiliary springs," which are figure-8 shaped black rubber springs that sit under a metal bracket bolted to the strut assembly?

Found another guaranteed culprit on this no start situation. Injector #1 measured out at 1.6 ohms where all the others measure at 12.7. I hooked up the injector to my injector tester and hit the multi fire test button and it’s completely dead. All the others fire just fine but not going to chance it so I’ve ordered 6 new injectors. Will be interesting to see how it runs after I replace both bad parts. Ill have to remove the Fuel rail but the FPR is a really tight fit so will make that a breeze now that the rail is coming off. more beer for me! And I’ll have a chance to paint some

This is just how I do it. All in all it’s a 3 beer job?

Hi everyone, I just had a few questions to ask you guys. I am picking up a 92 Grand Prix GTP next week to modify my 92 Grand Prix SE with and I was wondering if any of you knew if it is possible to wire the heads-up display that came in the higher trim levels into the ones that did not come with one. I am not very concerned about the trip computer and information center since I don’t want to go to the trouble of tearing apart my entire interior. I planned on swapping the dashboard anyways because the new one isn’t cracked the way mine is. If anyone has any info, it would be greatly appre

It is possible and others have done it. Your car might be pre-wired for HUD and a DIC. When you take the dash off to replace it, you might find the wiring harness you need. If not, wiring in a hud and dic isn't that difficult to do. Lots of resources on this forum if you dig around a bit.

So, I am sure alot of you have moved on to other posts, I have put alot of thought, energy, and spare time with basic tools. I decided, after alot of research, the LQ1 is going to stay and I purchased a used transmission with a warranty. I have cleaned the engine bay and am going to detail the engine and bay. What preventative maintenance should I be doing while everything is apart? Is there any performance/reliability issues I can correct or add while I have it this broken down?

Few more updates on this. Retested the front 3 injectors to be sure (back two are hidden under the plenum). They all check out at 12.7-12.8 ohms. All three injector harnesses test for continuity and show they’re firing using the injector tester. Good to known if the fuel pump circuit doesn’t send 12volts back to the ECM the ECM shuts down the injector circuit. The pump, pump circuit, and oil switch circuit all test good. I started to suspect the pump check valve might be the issue but the pressure doesn’t bleed down fast like everything I found with that issue on the interwebs. On a h

Did this thread go anywhere? I have a '95 that's been in storage for the last 20 years. In superb shape except for the seals.

It doesn't change with load. I've replaced the belt with a Gates and went for a short drive last night, no noise so far.

Hey all, was hoping to come back in to see what's up and also track down a few messages-- hope everyone is well! Can a mod help me out with getting access to my account? I did 'forgot password' but it's not sending me an email. For anyone that needs a reminder: 1998 Monte Carlo z34 that was wrecked and sent to the scrapyard a couple years after I sold it in 2009 2006 Monte Carlo SS that I sold in 2012. Last I heard the buyer was in Kansas City. Hoping it will turn up one day. 2012 Camaro SS 45th Anniversary edition. Bought new, currently sitting at 11K miles. (

I've done it a few times, but I forget the details. You have to pull the rear seat. I don't remember for sure, but you MIGHT have to remove the screws that hold the cover on the light bar (need to lower the top to do that), removing that cover allows access to the screws that hold the top of the rear side panels (or maybe they just overlap, I forget how the panels all fit together). Working in the back seat is easier with the top down anyway (assuming you're in a garage!). There's a screw under the end of the sill cover too, but mine are broken there so I don't have to worry about it l

That looks like it was a really clean and well cared-for car. Especially if the odometer is actual mileage.

Rubber stamp + white paint.

Ok, take care.

Torque converter clutches cause stalling at very low speed, like when the car comes to a stop. Which is why they're always disabled in first gear. They do NOT cause stalling at highway speed like you described. The trans will run hot when the converter clutch is NOT locked up, because most of the heat in a transmission is created by the fluid in the torque converter getting churned around until the molecules get dizzy. When the converter clutch is engaged, the fluid isn't being churned--so there's little heat generated. Disabling the torque converter clutch was a TERRIBLE idea. Do n

At THAT many miles I do not suggest cutting corners on the process of servicing the timing belt. If you skip the process of releasing the camshaft cogs then you cannot properly retime the cams to crankshaft because of the now stretched timing chain. At 240,000 miles I'd be servicing the timing chain as well, but that's not easy to do.

I'm pretty sure auto-locking doors were invented by Satan himself. Auto-unlocking is an idea I could maybe get behind... but the auto-locking part is pure evil.