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    94 olds vert

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/28/2024 in Posts

  1. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Good evening all! Jeremy here. New to the group but been lurking for 13 yrs now. Had a 94 z34 from 2011-12. Ex wife killed that. Just got a 93 cutlass coupe convertible a few days ago. Needs a bit of work but nothing crazy. Torch red pretty thing. I'll do my best with updates and pics as work progresses on the old girl. Couldn't be happier to be a w body owner again
    4 points
  2. BradCH

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Hello! Sort of an introduction - I live near Vancouver, BC. I don't have a W-body, yet, but I think that's about to change with your much appreciated advice! I am looking for a 91-93 GTP, similar to the 91 my father had brand new when I was just getting my drivers' licence. His was black with grey leather, had a 5 speed manual, and I think the wheels were gold. To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan of it when I was a kid - he traded in his beautiful 88 Thunderbird Turbocoupe which I absolutely loved (but was having repeated mechanical issues). The GTP felt kind of like a downgrade in some ways, especially the rattling interior. It sounded badass, but it wasn't very fast at all, something that kept getting hammered home every time I picked it up from the dealer after servicing - the dealer was a family friend who loaned us his personal 91 Trans Am every time the GTP needed something. Anyway, fast forward a couple of decades and one pops up on craigslist. Could never get hold of the seller, but it was just like my dad's except white. I then remembered my Dad's more, especially all the buttons inside (!!!) and reading and watching videos made me really kind of want a GTP again as a fun/project car. I think over the years I've come to appreciate it more as the unique car it was. Plus almost 25 years after Pontiac closed shop I'm really missing the whole brand. Those 'heat is on' commercials were constantly on my TV back then. My Dad passed away last year and my memories of learning to drive with him in it and the happier times of the early 90s are in my head now. This era of GTP (before they refreshed the interior - I think around 94?) seems to be pretty rare these days generally and especially where I live. I was trying to search for production numbers on the forum here to get a sense of what might be left out there but strangely the search engine reports 0 instances of 'GTP' across the entire forum even though I can see it plainly in various posts. I was hoping someone here had posted production numbers. There are two GTPs for sale right now near me. One I think may be a bit of a basket case. No rust (this is why I love the PNW). It is blue with grey leather, 'well loved' and apparently the brakes are shot. In this video the seller revs it and to my ear it doesn't sound too healthy and the oil pressure looks like it's high. It has 220k km and he's asking $2000cdn - it's been for sale for 6 months, I think maybe $1000 or less would be reasonable, but you guys let me know. The other is 150km from here, it's a 93, doesn't have leather (meh), but it is in excellent shape with only 140k km and could qualify for collector plates. Both cars are automatic. I was really hoping for a 5 speed but finding one out here may be impossible. I had thoughts of maybe buying an automatic and converting - it's not a money issue for me but I'm thinking scarcity of parts would be a big problem. If I had an idea just how many or few 5 speeds were produced that might guide my thinking. Or might just make my peace and live with automatic. As it's been a long time since I've bought a used vehicle (we just re-lease our Toyotas every 4 years), I was looking for advice on what to watch out for specifically with these cars, ie. things that might be broken that indicate you need to pass on this particular car. I'm kind of leaning towards going cheap to start, just to scratch the itch, because I don't know if this nostalgia wave will last once imagination/memory becomes reality. I think I'm almost in the market for something to literally just sit in and reminisce about Dad. But it might become a passion project too. Like I said, I really miss Pontiac. Anyway sorry for the long post!
    3 points
  3. White93z34

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Schurkey is almost completely right but you need a small flatblade screwdriver to wind it back in is all. My main concern is once I need one next its going to be figuring out how to rebuild one or adapt something to fit as I've had more then a few fail in my time. Just a point of interest not that this anything to do with anything but I've done more LQ1 timing belts then most people and NOT ONCE have I actually gotten oil out of a tensioner. when I serviced the belt. I always put some back in... just thought it an interesting thing to point out.
    3 points
  4. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    The process is well-described in the service manual. I haven't done this in probably ten years. Going from memory... Remove tensioner from the engine. There's a rubber plug on the tensioner body. You remove the rubber plug, drain the old oil out of it, then refill with fresh synthetic oil of the proper viscosity--might be 5W-30, I don't remember for sure. The plug either has a tiny hole in it, or you PUT a tiny hole in it. The tensioner plunger is wound back into the main body with a wrench. You hold the plunger in place while cramming a wire into the main body through the rubber plug which locks the plunger--otherwise it just unwinds again under spring tension. When the belt is back on, tensioner reinstalled--you pull the wire out, which releases the plunger and tensions the belt. Confirm with the actual service manual. Point is, it's not hard at all to reset the oil-filled (but not "hydraulic") tensioner.
    3 points
  5. cutlassman

    Crankshaft Position Sensor Stuck/Broken Off On Removal Attempt

    I appreciate all the advice. I’ll bite the bullet and drop the pan. The engine support bar is a great idea. A new oil pump makes sense and the power steering lines are leaking a bit, so I’ll knock those out, too. Might as well check out everything else while I’m in there.
    2 points
  6. White93z34

    Starting the hunt for a 91 Grand Prix GTP

    Welcome! Great backstory, I think it captures why many of us still love these cars. So you covered a lot of ground I'll try and hit on some points, not to scare you off but to inform. If you encounter a 1991 with ABS, don't walk, RUN. That was the last year the old PowerMasterIII braking system was offered in these cars. It was troublesome 35 years ago and in my opinion totally unsafe to use today, and its a massive headache to get rid of. Just spend some time reading here and you'll see. 92/93 had a far more reliable however underwhelming performance of the Teves IV ABS System. the "high oil pressure" is likely nothing more then a bad sending unit, when they start to fail they will read all over the place, $20 for a new one no big deal A 1992 will have the highest possibility of being a manual, not sure on production numbers but 1992 was the most common year for manuals, again still very uncommon but highest chance. As far as automatic vs manual, I've done both flavours of the 3.4 DOHC, the 5 speed is more fun but its truly a hateful gearbox to live with on a daily basis. I'm good with it for a few days before I get sick of it, your mileage may vary. There is also the reoccurring problem of these cars in the 5 speed manual, no parts! you can get axle seals, clutch sets, sometimes clutch hydraulics and not much more. Shift cables are another issue they don't break often, and you can repair the main shift cable when the rubber bushings fail. But the cables themselves, they are unobtainable now. And lastly Timing belt components are getting harder to come across, specifically the timing belt tensioner actuator, its been discontinued by GM and you're basically scrounging old stock or used ones at this point. Literally no idea what I'll do next time I need one. Probably have to get creative. The video of that 91' you posted sounds in a pretty sorry state, could be something simple. Can't really tell from the video. Of the 2 you are looking at the white one with cloth looks better taken care of. That said, If you do want one try and hold out for a nice one, at least around me these cars are just gone from junkyards so replacing broken pieces could be a challenge.
    2 points
  7. carkhz316

    LS4 swap begins

    Dang, its a been a spell. I'm sorry I havn't checked back in for some time. Anyway, I got the the Monte out to a few car shows last summer. I live in a rural area, so not many eyes and ears for modern cars. I was largely ignored but I don't care. The few people genuinely interested were great to talk to and showed sincere interest, so thats nice. Anyway, some pics and videos from last year. Yes, the vette covers are a cheeky joke, mostly. I figured if anyone else can do it for their LS (Vortec) swapped classic or hot rod, why can't I?
    2 points
  8. Gp2006

    New member

    Hi all. Just signed up. I’m here from GPForum where I used to get lots of good technical info. Alas the site is no more. Hope to pick up and share info as I go along. Just put my 2006 Grand Prix back on the road after several years in storage. Nothing fancy but it runs great and still looks good.
    2 points
  9. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    That's very kind of you! I've learned a lot due to me basically having to get so deep into both my cars restoration. It's forced me to learn how these cars are put together and I've become very good at looking for parts, doing research, etc. I'm trying for perfection but still have lots to learn and work to do. I can't forget to mention the guys who came before me. I've learned so much from them that I can't...NO ONE can do it without their knowledge and guidance. I'm just trying to pay it forward.
    2 points
  10. jiggity76

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    I just put a brand new one of those on the International. Thankfully, the area on the truck floor is super solid with factory paint still there. Of course it being an Oklahoma car is probably helping tremendously.
    2 points
  11. rich_e777

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Nice ride, Ive got a white `95 Vert thats been a project for awhile now. They`re great cars but the Verts and the DOHC engine both have unique parts no longer in production so they have to be maintained. There's several places coolant can get to leaking from, few are easy to get to. They can even get to leaking coolant from a plug inside the bellhousing. One thing Ive encountered on mine and seen on several junkyard cars is the antenna mast seal on those can go bad, leak into the trunk and rust from the inside out just over the rear wheel wheel. You might check behind ya`lls trunk liner to check every now and then.
    2 points
  12. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    She's not without problems. Verified timing belt shredding itself, active coolant leak (unsure of location now), a 2in tear in the top, cut in the driver side weatherstrip above the window, and a problem with the seal at the driver side windshield where the top meets. The last two let water in. Rain all day yesterday verified the leaks. I don't have a garage so I bought a car cover. But coming from Chicago I haven't found rust anywhere. And she's 30 years old now. Perfect is hard to find at a reasonable price with lower miles.
    2 points
  13. Oldsman

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Welcome. I haven't been on here very long and have only a few posts. My wife has a very similar car except hers is a 95 with only 27,000 miles. I found the thread on here about replacing the rear window weatherstrips. They are no longer available and the thread shows how to use 4th generation Camaro door weatherstrips. Excellent article. It looks like somebody has painted your brake calipers red. I did the same thing to my wife's car last year when I replaced the pads. These are really fun cars. Enjoy yours.
    2 points
  14. j_train5344

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    Wonderful info guys! Truly...thank you! I just bought a 93 olds Cutlass with 108k mi. Confirmed for sure needs a timing belt. All of your info will come in handy guaranteed. Also doing plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and whatever else comes up in the process. Again, thank you all so much! Pics to come
    2 points
  15. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Turned out as a high B+ job, there is still a small spot only someone anal would notice. Rattle can Dupli-color matched up pretty good over several coats of a new to me primer and filler. Here's a comparison pic after the paint dried but before the clear coat
    2 points
  16. 94 olds vert

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I don't know if I would use a media blaster on those vents. That could damage them. When I had my 1st gen GP and I added some vents. I took them to a shop that specializes in corvettes. They were able to repair them. I had a few broken mount points and a cracks. Plastics can be tricky to paint. I would try a product like this: https://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Lift-Off-TESF542143-Plastics/dp/B000BQSKQE/ref=sr_1_5?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.D26tQF1wV1qdtPU_fCc6S1cn9VBRfVsiKvTkIvtLwO9Xj7KES-1xXQxJ47Qq9lgH1ugikOWGfMueBW5LLxjLesyeN_NSvIv7HVASJKH7TeneFQvPTkj1Xc_Kce2XXeGcm59pzmpIDTG6SzAY6cy2gwWUDI5E3v6v3644kHnJiOR8TK7U8zbG5TwaNg_efrjf9nQocukymTJAwYQnMmLw9yzk1V0c6XBz0e4w9LdMYIHpS-FXEf3ERYySGoZ2Vc5M7rTt9zgP_uWqfwzXC_vpF0ttHWBVNKVtMINh4rRZl4U.xETHwFlqmrxsYAfmsAfwXOaFbWvaTM5EgMQJmR4OmAU&dib_tag=se&keywords=paint+remover+for+plastic&qid=1711146143&sr=8-5 Try a test spot and hopefully it's not too aggressive with the vent. The clear coat left a lightning bolt pattern? Could have just been the clear coat reacting weird to the base layers of paint. I've had it happen and it sucks.
    1 point
  17. 94 olds vert

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I have a very similar issues on my jet ski, with metal screws and plastic mounts. I slammed into a wave pretty hard and broke the tabs. Luckily I was able to get the hood vent cover out of the lake. Looks like I know what to use for the repair now.
    1 point
  18. Amanita

    TGP hood vent repair.

    I need to fix the hood vents on my Grand Prix but one of the problems is a couple posts have broken and I'm not entirely sure how to fix that.
    1 point
  19. rich_e777

    convertible carpeting

    Ok lets start with the backseat area, thats as far as I am with yard work pressing. More to come tomorrow and will get into the `94 coupe for comparison. Here is what it looks like underneath. This is a `95 and other than a cosmetic difference in the trim, it should be about the same for all convertible Cutlass Supremes. I have not cleaned it up yet nor looked closer at the rust spots but nothing jumped out as alarming just yet. You can see where the carpet is just trimmed to fit around the rear seat belt bolts. Use the bolts to make a line as to where to end the carpet at, the rear insulation pad overlaps the carpet by a few inches.
    1 point
  20. KevenP

    Hey all. New here.............

    and to Pontiac's. Picked up an '02 Grand Prix SE for the missus. 116K miles and I've already replaced the intake gaskets. Anything else to look out for?
    1 point
  21. Gp2006

    New member

    Thanks jiggity76. There’s so many I wish I could have held on to!
    1 point
  22. j_train5344

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Swear jiggity76, between your replies/posts here and YouTube, you seem to be the authority on everything Cutlass!!! I'd love to see your cars in person!!! I imagine perfection!!!!
    1 point
  23. 94 olds vert

    Brain fart! New with 93 cutlass

    Welcome to the site! Your car looks to be in good condition.
    1 point
  24. 55trucker

    TGP hood vent repair.

    My personal choice for cracked urethane plastic repairs or the like is Norton's Speedgrip Structural urethane adhesive, it's on the expensive side but it works well.
    1 point
  25. rich_e777

    TGP hood vent repair.

    Do not use the flexible bumper repair stuff, it doesnt hold at all. As soon as I screwed the vent back down it all seperated and I could peel the urethane off clean. So now I`m going to strip it and try again, might do the other just to be sure they match. I used Gorilla glue gel to re-attach the unobtanium and ran a mounting screw down the glued on provision and it all held very nice. Let it cure for 24 hours.
    1 point
  26. Schurkey

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    I'll accept the flat-blade vs. wrench. Truth is, I don't remember how I did it all those years ago. I have drained oil out of, and refilled the tensioners on the few belt replacements I've done--four, perhaps.
    1 point
  27. rich_e777

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    I have this task on the to do list that never seems to get any shorter. Thanks for the info dudes!
    1 point
  28. jiggity76

    LQ1 3.4L DOHC V6 Timing Belt Change

    This is a great overall video of not only the tensioner but anything having to do with servicing these wonderful motors. Like in the video, motor oil is used to top off the tensioner. There is a rubber plug that gives access to filling it. The video explains what is acceptable for the tensioner to be at as far as specs to be considered reusable. You'll have to skip forward a bit to find the appropriate sections of information. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  29. cjc

    convertible carpeting

    Just found this site while looking for carpet to fit my 93 vert, has anybody determined of a coupe will work and with how trouble.
    1 point
  30. Schurkey

    COOLANT LEVEL SENSOR DISCONTINUED FOR 2.8L V-6 & 3.1L W-body cars

    Low coolant light was lit up on my '92 for a couple of years. Then it went out. I wouldn't guarantee that it's the sender at fault. Could just as easily be the wire harness with bare wire, or a fault in the instrument cluster. I would absolutely verify the harness before I crammed-in another sensor, whether from GM or an aftermarket sensor from a local parts store.
    1 point
  31. Donny_olds

    97 cutty ls4 swap

    Got cooling system and all accessories on. Having some trouble getting tranny to shift, we used a 4l80 as reference for pinning the harness to the ecu and we can get it into first manually but no luck shifting, any tips?? IMG_1476.MOV
    1 point
  32. Ric

    convertible carpeting

    I understand. Let me know, thanks!
    1 point
  33. NCTyphoonKid

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    Has anyone rebuilt one of these? The one in my 92 lumina has no more 4th gear. I'm looking to try rebuilding myself. Does anyone have a how to? Also was told I should add a shift kit to firm up the shifts when I do the rebuild
    1 point
  34. Schurkey

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    http://www.transgo.com/products.php?cat=4T60E&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=105&parent_id=105 Shift kit and accumulator parts. I've come to appreciate Transgo shift kits vs. B&M or other "famous names". There's a bunch of different wiring changes on the 4T60E, at the big round connector. For example, I can't swap a 92 Euro 3.4 trans into a '93 Euro 3.4 car. I have a Kent-Moore "special tool" that can shift the transmission into all the different gears, but there's a bunch of different wiring adapters depending on what application the trans is configured for. I don't have many of the wiring adapters.
    1 point
  35. Imp558

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    The 2 revisions are with or without the 2nd gear switch 1994 4L60-E is very different. With the discovery inside the radiator in mind perhaps swap the entire 1994 powertrain?
    1 point
  36. Galaxie500XL

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    Someone had asked for my old write-up on the TCC apply issue, with no overdrive when hot. http://www.w-body.com/topic/41994-95-dohc-cutlass-p0740-no-overdrive-no-tcc-when-hot/
    1 point
  37. NCTyphoonKid

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    Unfortunately 4th gear doesn't work at all, I found this in the trans pan. I got the cradle dropped enough to where I can access the transmission stuff and get it out hopefully
    1 point
  38. Galaxie500XL

    4t60 transmission rebuild

    If your 4th gear is working when cold, then goes away when the transmission is warm, you probably have an issue with the TCC apply piston...pretty common on the 4T60. The piston is known for galling the cylinder it rides in, and then it sticks in the bore. With the torque converter clutch unable to lock the converter, the ECM disables overdrive to try to save the transmission from high temperatures. I had this problem with my '95 Cutlass convertible, and it actually took a second rebuild by the transmission shop to resolve it, because they didn't listen the first time when I told them what the problem was. A scantool that can read torque converter slip percentage data from the ECM can confirm what's happening. Mine would work perfectly, until transmission temps exceeded 180 degrees, then it would disable 4th. Shutting down, and restarting the car once it was warm would allow 4th to work for a minute or so, then the ECM would disable overdrive again. You might find that simply replacing the valve body resolves the problem. There's a fairly long description of the problem that I wrote on this forum about 8 years ago that more fully describes the problem.
    1 point
  39. l67ss

    95 Monte Carlo 3100 to 3900 Swap

    3.9 should physically bolt in
    1 point
  40. I was gonna share my couple experiences, but this write-up pretty much covers the same: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/16057-crankshaft-position-sensor-tutorial
    1 point
  41. DefEddie

    W-body engine pull

    Update for tips and tricks on pulling the whole assembly out from underneath.
    1 point
  42. mike_lumina92

    any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful

    yeah, i got a magna flow muffler and dual exhuasts at the muffler shop already paid for, i jus need to take time to go get them put on, tune up and cold air intake will these make it noticably faster or powerfull
    1 point
  43. Addicted To Boost

    any ways to make my 1992 lumina Euro 3.1 faster and more powerful

    Give it a full tuneup, a cold air intake, and some Magnaflow muffler(s).
    1 point
  44. 1QUICKHATCH

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    reliability is only as good as your maintenance. keep up on the maintenance and you should not have any problems. I have seen several 3400's and 3800's with well over 325,000kms on them (200,000mi)
    1 point
  45. thunderbirdrob

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    3.4 easiest bolt it in and go. if your not in a hurry do the 3.8
    1 point
  46. 1QUICKHATCH

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    3400 swap is the best for your $ 3400 will bolt in place of your 3100 and run on the same harness/ecm 3400 has aftermarket just have to look in the right places! 3400 can make plenty of power too just lots of people like the 3800 s/c because it came with boost from the factory and responds well to a smaller pully! a few guys with 3400's in j-bodys are making good power with boost check out this guy http://khturbo.net/rmtz24/RMTZ24.html 1989 Z24 5-speed '02 3400 V6, 10psi of Turbo Best 1/4- 12.41 at 112.8 328HP/352TQ to the wheels on a stock 3400 with a turbo! another J-body with a stock bottem end 3400 ran 12.21@118 two weekends ago, he has home ported heads, cam, centrifugal supercharger, headers and a few other mods! just giving you some ideas before you swap to a 3800!
    1 point
  47. White93z34

    3.1 to 3.4 or 3.8 swap

    3400 as far as simplicity will be almost a direct swap. there are a few things that need to be changed but it would be hands down the most straightforward a 3800 would be a little more involved, but again fairly straightforward.
    1 point
  48. PCGUY112887

    W-body engine pull

    Ah! Finally got it out! Turns out that left side bracket... well if you unbolt it from the trans, there are 2 bolts. But if you unbolt it from the block, there are 2 bolts towards the top, and 1 down towards the bottom of the engine. I did not see this 1 lower bolt! So about 5 hours of fighting for that. After I undid that, it came right out.
    1 point
  49. TurboSedan

    W-body engine pull

    i always leave my PS pump in the engine bay when i pull the drivetrain. just unbolt it from the front timing cover and set it aside.
    1 point
  50. Brian P

    W-body engine pull

    I have a few minutes at this moment. That lower mount, all you need to do is crawl under the car, and remove the 2 retaining nuts keeping the mount onto its "cup" on the frame. Other things to do.... Bottom: - unbolt AC compressor from bracket and set aside - Remove starter - Remove flexplate-to-torque converter bolts (accessible once starter is removed. You will have to turn the engine manually at the crank pulley to get at all 3) - Disconnect exhaust downpipe (preferred), or unbolt crossover and remove rear exhaust manifold. - Remove right side transmission-to-engine block retaining bolts (I usually just remove the 2 bolts going into the trans diff cone area, and leave the bracket bolted to the engine block) Over: - All hoses including upper, lower, and 2 heater hoses (nearest the throttle body - Remove cables from TB or just unbolt the TB and set it aside - Undo two fuel lines with special quick disconnect tool - Get all accessories out of the way - Unbolt P/S pump and set aside - Remove alternator (preference of mine for added space) keep the bracket bolted to the engine - Disconnect engine wiring harness that goes to the EGR, Throttle body, igniton module, MAP sensor, Oxygen sensor, injector harness, etc and set aside - *** Disconnect knock sensor and oil pressure sensor wiring (You don't want to pull these apart accidentally) - remove crossover heat shield and crossover (optional for added space to get to the bellhousing bolts) - undo bellhousing bolts, disconnect 2 ground wires attached to 2 of these bolts *** ONE Bellhousing bolt in the BACK of the motor is facing the OTHER direction. You can only access this from the passenger side of the car. I usually use a long 1/2" extension and get at it by feel from the passenger side fenderwell. - Support transmission from the bottom with a jack, or jackstand (use a big piece of wood to prevent gouging the pan) - lift up evenly, be sure motor mount lifts out of its cup first, then shake the engine free from the tranny. I may have missed some so I'll add as I think about it.
    1 point
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