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Hello everyone! Long time lurker, first time having an account on any forum. I recently bought a '93 Chevy Lumina Z34, and am excited to start my work on it whenever I can. It's currently in another province, at my parents house, so I sadly won't be able to post pictures for a couple weeks. -J

I'm Walter, I live in Texas, and I will try not to share any more identifying information here lol I might do that too often but anyways I'm here because my son and I have a 95 base Lumina with a 3.1 which did not run for almost 2 years until a couple days ago. It was the fuel pump apparently lol. It has only 95k miles so I think I can put several more on her before the scope of work becomes too much. I wanted to be an automotive mechanic when I graduated HS. I went to trade school for 2 semesters and dropped out... and went to work doing other things I was not as mechanically inclined as I ho

Soffseal made all three w/strip designs. Scott Hayes done a great job of explaining the process. Early design, 91 thru 92 had a 'butt joint' type w/strip mating connection. Running change in late 92 began the angle type connection and 93 into 94 and 95 was the final and best design of a ball and socket type. 'A' pillar w/strip final was the one with the drain hole in the runner when standing over corner. The tops were made wider by approx. 1.5 inches in late 94 production to help cover the side window w/strips and aid in water leaks. The Body in Whites were sent over three at a

Solution for me. Installed new premium AC Delco wires, put heat shields back on, no misses yet. Still running with disconnected solenoid. But I can accelerate again!

Get a scanner that will read misfire counters and narrowing down which cyl or cylinders that are misfiring would be easy. There are tools that will read this in the $50 range for what it's worth(possibly some cheaper than that).

Just use a piece of scrap wire off of something for $free.

A little bit of an update: thanks to Grandpa Biden and the newest economic stimulus package, my tentative completion goals have been pushed up to this summer; if at very least have the engine in the car (but not necessarily driving around). Anyway, simply put, I'll be buying more car parts to finish things. In the meantime: I've received my Furches Performance oil pan, and have it loosely bolted to the motor. I sent the heads off to the machine shop for a once over and everything came back as good (I still have to go pick them up). Pressure washed the long block with some

If I were you, I would buy a multimeter(or two...one standard one, and one with a current clamp capable of reading DC amps) and a scan tool at least capable of reading engine data on those LQ1's. Both will pay for themselves many times over if you do your own diagnostic work. There's tons of documentation online these days to help you get started using either tool. If you want some recommendations for either, let me know(buying all the stuff I recommended would be far cheaper than a single dealership visit by the way).

If you fixed a random misfire by removing the heat shields, you have bad plug wires. They are arcing to the ground the heat shield provides. 40KV will arc easily

No black marks but I will invest in new wires this weekend.

Are there black marks on the plug(s)? I would replace them with new ACDelco wires. If you're worried about the plug boot covers, you can get some of the cloth ones.

Chances are this 1990 Firebird I acquired last year will need it as well, sat for nearly 30 years because of that. I might grab one of those instead, thanks for that link.

This will bypass the entire vats setup: https://www.amazon.com/Timers-Shop-PASSkey-Bypass-Module-Painless/dp/B074YZ6XPM Besides installing that, the start enable relay needs to be bypassed(simple as connecting two wires together). I've had one of those bypass modules on a vehicle now for almost 3 years now.

I have more pictures if needed.

Thank you very much as well jiggity. Going to screw with it a bit more to see if I can get it just right.

These pictures show Rear Passenger side brake line routing from Drivers side to Passengers side. There are two brake line hold down clips on top of the leaf spring support.

I can also take pics of my 91 Cutlass coupe if that will help. It's currently up on jackstands.

Hmmmmm....photobucket went that route 4 years ago?.......or was it 5? I closed my photobucket, personally make use of Imgur.com, no fees, no ceiling (none that I'm aware of)

Well... I have an account with something calling itself photobucket now lol I appreciate the heads up though. I havent yet figured out how to get the urls for each picture I uploaded to their server into my clipboard so I can paste them here so, I will just hold off until tomorrow. I will send a messege to a mod and see what they suggest before I do that. I guess you could say I do have some computer skills so maybe I could find some free hosting have my own page instead of Photobucket and then I could post URLs from there? We will find out I got an authenticator app on my phone now to so have

I don't think Photobucket exists anymore. We've had issues with them over the years, including myself.

Old man it has some rust on the firewall at the top there and bottom of the core support other than that it's not too bad I took the gas tank out about a week ago and the car up underneath there is completely filthy but no rust and the tank was very clean. It does have the newer 3100 I believe because it says on the intake manifold far as I know it's been in Texas it only has 95,000 miles on it put new plugs and wires and stuff and got that fuel pump going and it's crank right up firing on all cylinders so now we can just get this other things worked out suspension and and the v a t s passkey.

Rear Bumper has arrived. Removal seems straightforward enough. Rear cover and all the little bits. Need to take stock and order new bolts and hardware. I have a few bags of reconditioned speed screws. My local Napa does not seem to carry body hardware anymore.

Figured I should update this with a picture. 2 dips in high test vinegar to get the rust, a coat of rust converter, and 2 coats of black semi gloss. Can’t say they’re good as new because of the rust pitting but look damn good now. the actual hangers are new parts and need a coat of paint themselves before install. New parts never seem to be up to my standard. Still need correct sized bolts as well.

Welcome from Austin, Walter.

ACDelco 19209674 There's an older stock one on ebay right now that's USA made: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174691238123?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 Pretty sure if you order anywhere with newer stock, you'll receive a China made flasher...

Rockauto: Prt# KYB 366004 ea. $39.79 x2= $79.58 +shipping $8.99 + tx $5.31 Total= $93.88 (arrived in two days) {currently awaiting upper strut mounts} ordered week ago this coming Tuesday. under $45 with shipping...... $44 (something)

That's just a glorified jumper wire that will allow you to flash out codes using the check engine light(pre-1994 cars). A paper clip or piece of wire will do the same thing and you likely have one or the other already laying around the house See here for information on flashing codes and code definitions: https://www.w-body.com/oldsite/ecm-codes.html

Agreed, one doesn't need to spend a fortune on a multi meter, you can find a decent meter at Home Depot, in the states they sell Klein, it's a decent device, they are practically all manufactured in China, even expensive Fluke meters are made there. Just pick up a manual range meter, you don't necessarily need an auto range device. Even Harbor Freight carry multi meters, but I believe that they stock one manufacturer that supplies for HB under the HB brand name. We don't have HB up here, but when I go down to Buffalo I make a point of dropping into the HB to pick up simple items ther

It simple the check the voltage, but without a multimeter... Anyway, if it didn't change anything, probably wasn't it.

You can test the MAP sensor before you replace it. Make sure it has a 5V input and a ground. The middle wire should change voltage based on vacuum, although I'm not exactly sure what is what. Do you have a way to check what kPa the PCM is reading with key-on? OBD-II has a table for the maximum kPa allowed and if it's above that, it won't start. At least, that was what I determined with my GT. I had two new MAP sensors that were faulty out of the box. I have no idea, though, how OBD-I works with that. You can also hook up a vacuum gauge to the MAP sensor and make sure the voltage varie

As I said, the map may not be the primary issue, but the map may be the result of an issue, the ecm relies on ambient air temp & coolant temp to be able to properly calculate the needed fuel mixture. If the coolant temp sensor has either failed or the wiring circuit is questionable the ecm cannot calculate. The same goes for the IAT sensor, if the ecm isn't seeing the proper temp input from the sensor then it again cannot calculate the needed air/fuel ratio. The map relies on both of these signals functioning properly to adjust the proper air ambient pressure signal to the ecm.

Greg: this does sound like it might be a map issue, your description of the symptoms sort of point in that direction. If there is a map issue the ecm cannot configure the proper fuel mixture to get the engine to fire. Is there a check engine light on at all?.......(other than the usual code 12 when one turns the key to run) A faulty ecm coolant temp sensor sensor circuit can trigger a map issue. One needs a scanner to read (in real time) what the koeo reading for the ect circuit is (example...-49 degrees fahrenheit with the key on), that is an indicator that the ecm is not seeing the

If you think a dealer will be of much help I have some oceanfront property in Nebraska. Most techs there if they aren't parts changers were only born when the car was new. OBD 1 may as well be hieroglyphics to them I've done a number of them. I'll be honest I'm hard pressed to think of a worse job on an Automatic LQ1 car. Step one, pull the alternator, that will give you the best access to it Step two, pray to whichever greater power you prefer that it comes out without a fight. Oftentimes they will split down the side, oil will get inside and the body will expand and get stuck

Pardon my *advanced age & the continual brain short circuits*......must be the prescription drugs I am on for the spinal stenosis..... what I should've explained is that the cylinder which is on the compression stroke receives the bulk of the discharge while the cylinder on the valve overlap receives a reduced coil discharge seeing as it does not require a * full squirt*, the magnetic cam synchronizer circuit looks after that.

Welcome!

Color and condition? Miles? If it's not currently running, how long has it been sitting? You said "start your work on it", so I'm assuming it needs work. Do you know the history? Tell us the story about the car, that's what forums are for.

Welcome to the forum! Does it run and drive well?

I learned you can hang a bungee cord from its midpoint off the master cylinder then hook the covering boot with both ends to hold it out of the way of that pinch bolt. I`d thought I`d have an issue getting it back on the R&P correctly but havent gotten that far yet. Engine bay support bar is a must for getting one of these things off, $50 Harbor Freight one and a HD ratchet strap around the trans works great. I dont think getting your current one off will be an issue, it`ll be finding a suitable replacement without it having to be shipped. I recall the subframe swap thread as will and

No, not really. There is ONE spark pulse per coil. It travels down one plug wire, crosses the spark plug gap. Travels through the conductive metal engine to the other spark plug that the coil is paired with. Jumps that plug in the reverse direction. Travels up the plug wire where it completes it's circuit in the secondary windings of the coil. The plug that fires in the normal direction, ALWAYS fires in the normal direction. The plug that fires in reverse polarity ALWAYS fires in reverse polarity. The polarity does not switch back and forth depending on whether the cylinder is

Ran out of 308 and just got another roll delivered today. Also just picked up a new vice to finish the y-hanger. Back at it tonight. Hope to be done soon. Street sweepers are out and I’d like to get it insured once they’re done.

That front subframe is worthless. It won't weld. It'll just fall apart somewhere else. As people said, replacing the front subframe isn't "too bad". I've hand-rebuilt 3 rear subframes on my GM cars over the years. With the front subframe, 1) Make sure you can get the rubber bushings. They are hard/impossible to get for some years/models. 2) Get new bolts. It's a good idea to get new nuts, if you don't want to risk an additional 1-3 weeks of down time. 3) Removing the old bolts may be easy (people in So-Calf often say "WTF are you talking about that a frame/body bolt is

The 3 individual coils are a common item, the same item has been in use going back to approx '87 on all the engines (excluding the 8's) that were distributorless to the mid 2000's.

Had to build a y pipe so that set me back a day or two. Original magnaflow Y’ was to long and I coudnt make the turns into the mufflers with it. Also realized it was a merge pipe and would have been bad for flow. Still need to finish the tack and size the last two bends. Good progress though. Pipe in the right is almost at the height I want. Another 1/2” up and should be good.

Ladies and gentlemen, your Official 2021 W-Body.com Slogan: The Cult Is Us

I've been told that my two W's will be valuable someday. No matter, that's not why I have them. I enjoy them for what they are and how much joy they give me. If they do end up gaining in monetary value, that's great. If not, oh well. They're not going anywhere.

For people from the outside it was a minor revision. Can't blame em for not following every last change they made over the years. I may move this to General to get it some more attention. Haven't decided yet. Its interesting to me that these are coming around as something collectible. Its funny. Then again back in the late 70's my dad drove a 69' Camaro convertible as a regular old car, was nothing special then... not saying that our cars will ever stain that status but... On the other other hand I kind of like them being ignored at large by "collectors".

The article says no changes of note were made to the ‘95 model. They need to do some more research.

When I changed the generator on my 3.12 TOCH, I removed the hood so I could get at that pesky radiator cap. Once it was removed, it allowed me to access the lip spoiler retaining nuts...damn GM engineers. Once the spoiler was removed, the generator was easy to get at. Mine is the one that's actually mounted to the body under the rear seat with a variable length drive belt to account for engine movement. It's held in place by 32 set screws, all of them come out easy except for 7 of them. Those 7 are a real bitch. Once I got 6 of them out, I spent 2 years (off and on) trying to get the las

Has GM always been known to make the most intelligent decisions? Maybe that goes back to them not spending money on things that are, or are not needed...