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For a decade or so my wife and I have been owners of several vehicles from dead brands. (Geo Metro, Saturn SW2, Plymouth Grand Voyager SE and the one oddball because the brand is still in existence - 1985 F250) It's kind of fun in a way but finding parts gets more difficult every year. I was telling my wife maybe we need to find something that is still easy to find in the junkyards and was so popular that parts are still easy to come by new. Next thing I know a coworker puts his 1999 Buick Century Limited up for sale. Bingo! My first order of business then is to find out what vehicles have components in common with this one and what bolt-in swaps can be done for upgrades.

So I spent a little time out in the garage tonight. I pulled the old crusty battery that has sat in the car all these years and replaced it with a new one ( which was also used to power the winch we pulled it onto the trailer with. This let me test some electrical components. All 4 window motors are working. The motor for the top works, though it is a bit sluggish ( i’m Sure it doesn’t help that there is extra weight in the roof framework, in the form of old mud dauber nests.) I was able to get the top all the way down, though the motor struggles to go back up ( this could be as a result of a partially drained battery. My old charger bit the dust, so I will need to get another one. Of course, having the top down has some advantages. It is much easier to see the mess that is the interior. I started the process of vacuuming out debris, tomorrow I should have some upholstery cleaner to work on the seats. I also took a few more photos to document what I am working with.

Nice save, looks pretty solid for an Ohio car. Fortunately, the door glass is the same as a 1988-94 coupe

Its pretty ragged, but the 5 speed will go great in my black 90 TGP! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

@jiggity76 showed me this one. Pretty rare car.

START with a six-point socket instead of your 12-point. (Wild guess: There's a lesson to be learned here.) (Second Wild Guess: The bolts have corroded to the casting, you're gonna need heat, and you'll be lucky if the aluminum is saveable.) I've removed lug nuts with those so-called "Turbo" sockets. They're tapered inside, with a "reverse-thread" machining that tends to pull the damaged fastener in, and wedge it as you turn the socket to loosen the fastener. The ones I have are specifically for lug nuts. SK sells some intended for general purpose. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007GGUEC/ref=psdc_553372_t1_B0007GGUE2

I’ve got a 92 neon blue GTP 5 speed. She has 126k only rust is at the top of the windshield. Pics are from when I first picked her up to at the w body meet at ZZP in Grand Rapids.

I plan to put stock wheels back on it and I’ve been looking for a valance for a while. car is one of 8 optioned this way.

Ok, I PM'd ya.

Hi, my name is Tim and for about a year or so I've been a proud owner of a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme that's been passed onto me. I live in Belgium and the car is in Poland for the moment but that's another matter. I had always wanted an American car, maybe the Olds isn't what the average teenager dreams of but these cars are very rare in Europe so I'm happy with it. The Oldsmobile make is almost unknown in these parts, so it adds to the curiosity factor. There are however problems with rarity - the first one being spare parts. The second issue is finding people with enough knowledge to be able to diagnose a problem or recommend any change - that is how I found this forum, I've already found a few useful posts. I hope that one day I'll be able to contribute to this forum to respond in kind.

So it has been a long time since I posted here.... and Shawn ( @GnatGoSplat) probably thinks I’m crazy for starting this project, but... Yesterday I rescued my 1993 Cutlass Supreme Convertible from what used to be a lumber yard in Byhalia,OH where it had sat for almost exactly 11 years ( it was parked there in October, 2008 ). I am in a bit of damage/deterioration determination mode at the moment. When she was parked, the motor was partially disassembled, so obviously there is some work to be done under the hood. The drivers side window was broken at some point, so that will need to be replaced, and at this point I don’t know if any of the interior parts have damage that needs to be repaired or replaced due to the layer of dirt and dust and other debris I still need to clean out of the car. Getting her up on the trailer ( and back down again ) was fun... the passenger side rear wheel isn’t spinning. Surprisingly, all 4 tires took air, though the drivers side front would only hold it about an hour. Passenger side front was better. It took 12 hours before it went flat.... Next task is to look through the pile of parts ( and repair manuals ) I put in the trunk all those years ago... I need it clear so I can see if the top still works....

Someone at work asked to see some progress photos. I’ve been working on cleaning the interior. It isn’t perfect yet, but it is much better. I am willing to sit in the car now...

Yes, the glass rear window is coming loose from the top along the right hand vertical edge. Oldmangimes: You were exactly right. That rod had slipped almost two inches toward the driver's side. Other issues at play here are that most of the staples have pulled out along the bottom of the rear curtain (nice to have proper vocabulary to use here) as well as on the sides (see photos, which were taken with the top up but unlatched at the windshield). I'd really like to not have to replace the top in the near future. It's in very good shape, other than these minor issues.

A lot of work to be done there, but she can be saved.

I am starting another thread where you can post articles on the first gen w-body that were featured in any magazine. If you can add to my list I would appreciate it if you can let everyone know if there were are any others. This is the magazines the w-body first gens were presented in I found from doing research, I also own some of these magazines and some I am still searching for to add to my first gen w body collection. THE GM-10’S: BUICK REGAL, CHEVROLET LUMINA, OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME, PONTIAC GRAND PRIX W-BODY MAGAZINE ARTICLES OF FIRST GENERATION FROM 1988-1991 - Automobile Magazine - October 1987- New Cars ’88! - January 1988- America Picks it’s Favorite Cars- ‘88 All-Stars Issue - July 1988- Can These Cars Save GM? Buick Regal, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac Grand Prix GM10’S Coupe’s - May 1989- Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo Coupe Takes On Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe - April 1990- Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo Coupe - May 1990- Eight Great Convertibles- Featuring Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - Automotive Engineering Magazine - October 1987- 1988 New U.S. Cars - Automotive Fleet Magazine - August 1987- The New 1988 Buick Regal Limited- GM10 Coupe - October 1987- The ’88 Cars - February 1988- The New 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme- GM10 Coupe - March 1988- The New Pontiac Grand Prix Coupe- GM10 Coupe - February 1989- The New 1990 Chevrolet Lumina- GM10 Coupe - July 1989- The New 1990 Buick Regal Limited Sedan - Autoweek Magazine - September 7, 1987- FWD 1988 ½ Pontiac Grand Prix - October 26, 1987- What’s New For ‘88 - February 1, 1988- Inside The Detroit Auto Show - February 29, 1988- Chicago Auto Show - March 21, 1988- 1988 Pontiac Grand Prix SE - March 28, 1988- Chevy’s GM-10s - April 4, 1988- FWD 1989 ½ Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo Coupe - April 25, 1988- Buick Adds The Grand Sport Package to Regal Model Trim Line, 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass International - May 2, 1988- FWD 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Indy Pace Car - September 26, 1988- 205 HP Pontiac Grand Prix - October 23, 1988- Eighty Nines- Best and The Brightest- Featuring GM W-Body GM-10s - February 20, 1989- 1990 Cars- Featuring FWD New W-Body- 1990 Chevrolet Lumina - June 12, 1989- Buick Pumps Iron- The 1989 Buick’s Reatta and Regal Supercharged Models Race on Test Track - August 14, 1989- 1990 Chevrolet Lumina Eurosport Coupe - - Car Craft - August 1988- QUICK TEST: Buick Regal And Oldsmobile Cutlass, GM’s Mid-Size Performers - Car and Driver Magazine - September 1987- The New 1988 Buick Regal Limited- GM10 Coupe - October 1987- ’88 Cars Featuring GM10 Coupes- Pontiac Grand Prix SE, Buick Regal Limited, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - March 1988- The New 1988 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme- GM10 Coupe - March 1991- America Fights Back! – Featuring The All New 1991 Chevrolet Lumina Coupe - Changing Times - December 1987- 1988 New Car Preview - December 1988- 1989 New Car Preview - December 1989- 1990 New Car Preview - Changing Times Automotive Annual Guide - Cars ’88- Featuring Buick Regal, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac GP - Cars ’89- Featuring Buick Regal, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac GP - Consumer Report Magazine - March 1988- The All New 1988 Buick Regal- GM10 Coupe - April 1988- The 1988 Cars - April 1989- The 1989 Cars - Ebony Magazine - November 1987- The 1988 New Cars - November 1988- The 1989 New Cars - Home Mechanix Magazine - May 1988- The Home Mechanix Award Easy Maintenance Car of The Year- The 1988 Buick Regal Limited GM10 Coupe - Kiplinger Personal Finance Magazine: Changing Times Magazine - December 1987- The 1988 New Cars - December 1988- The 1989 New Cars - Motor Trend Magazine - September 1986- INSIDE DETROIT: 1988 Buick Regal FWD GM10 Article - September 1987- PREVIEW USA: WHAT’S NEW FOR 1988 - October 1987- FIRST ’88 TESTS: BUICK REGAL, DODGE DYNASTY, LINCOLN CONTINENTAL, RENAULT PREMIER - January 1988- 1988 GM 10’s - September 1988- ROAD TEST: Buick Regal Grand Sport - 1988 Motor Trend Magazine- Automotive Yearbook New Car Guide - 1989 Motor Trend Magazine- Automotive Yearbook New Car Guide - - - Road & Track - November 1987- New 1988 Cars- GM-10’s- Buick Regal, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac Grand Prix, etc. - June 1988- Testing GM-10’s- Buick Regal, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac Grand Prix - Popular Mechanic Magazine - March 1986- Inside Detroit- GM’s Chevy-Pontiac small car group shares an ’87 prototype that would officially be the W-body GM10 ’88 Pontiac Grand Prix - September 1986- Inside Detroit- New Roofline, Grille and Doors will distinguish GM10 W-body ’88 Buick Regal that was supposed to be an redesign project for the ’89 Riviera, Also GM10 W-body ’88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and GM10 ’88 Pontiac Grand Prix - October 1988- 2-faced prototype- GM10 ’88 Pontiac Grand Prix Front, ’88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Rear - November 1986- Inside Detroit- 1988 Buick Regal FWD GM10, Also ’88 Olds Cutlass Supreme FWD GM10 - May 1987- ’88 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme FWD GM10 is a 4, Base Engine is A Hot V6 Engine - August 1987- New ’88 GM10 FWD Pontiac Grand Prix Will Have a 2.8l V6, which it Will Share with FWD GM10 Buick Regal and Oldsmobile Cutlass - October 1987- 1988 NEW CARS- Featuring GM10 Coupes- Buick Regal, Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - November 1987- ‘91 Buick Regal and ’91 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme will be Sedans - December 1987- 1988 Chevrolet Monte Carlo Will Be The Final Year, In ’90 Chevrolet Will Design To The GM10 Platform An FWD Chevrolet Lumina Coupe - June 1988- American Flyers- Featuring GM10 Coupes- Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, Buick Regal Limited, Pontiac Grand Prix SE - September 1988- Automobile Long Term Test- 1988 Buick Regal Custom - January 1989- Automobile Long Term Test- Buick Regal Custom, MoTown Muscle Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo Sport SE - February 1989- Inside Detroit- 1990 Chevrolet Lumina Sedan, Built a Buick- How The Buick Reatta is Built on Assembly Line - March 1989- Inside Detroit- 1990 Buick Regal 4-Door Sedan - October 1989- Detroit Spy Report- 1990 Chevrolet Lumina Turbo V6, Detroit 1990 Cars For A New Decade- Featuring GM10 Coupes- Chevrolet Lumina Sedan and Lumina Eurosport Coupe, Buick Regal Limited Sedan, Pontiac Grand Prix STE, Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible and Cutlass Supreme Sedan - December 1989- Civil War Battle- Ford Vs Chevy- Featuring GM10 Coupe- 1990 Chevrolet Lumina Eurosport Sedan - March 1990- Detroit Spy Report- 1991 Chevrolet Lumina Goes Turbo, Pontiac Grand Prix - April 1990- Owners Report- Chevrolet Lumina Eurosport Sedan - July 1990- Detroit Spy Report- Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme redesigned smaller headlights and lower hood line for ‘91 - August 1990- Detroit Spy Report- Pontiac Grand Prix gets a ’91 facelift nose job and smaller headlights - October 1990- Detroit 1991- Chevrolet Lumina Z-31 Coupe, Pontiac Grand Prix GTP Coupe - Popular Science - April 1985- FWD Prototype Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme - May 1986- FWD Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Will Be One of GM’s Mid-Size Car for 1988 - December 1987- The New GM10 1988 Buick Regal Vs The Cougar and LeBaron - January 1989- Coupes: GM10 ’89 Buick Regal Grand Sport Coupe and Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme International Coupe - June 1989- The All New High Performance ’90 Chevrolet Lumina SS Coupe - January 1991- The All New 1991 GM-10- Buick Regal, Chevrolet Lumina, Pontiac Grand Prix - Special Buyers Guide Magazine - 1988 Car Preview- Best Buy’s- Featuring Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac Grand Prix - 1989 Car Preview- Best Buy’s- Featuring Buick Regal, Olds Cutlass Supreme, Pontiac Grand Prix - Ward’s Auto World Magazine - October 1987- Testing Cars for 1988- Featuring the GM-10 1988 Buick Regal - November 1987- Testing The Buick Grand National And The New GM-10 FWD 1988 Buick Regal

And in case you are wondering, here is the thread where I discussed the issues the car had before it was partly disassembled: Now the motor has been siding with both the cam carriers and the intake manifold off of it since 2005 ( there is another thread here: ) At this point, I am not inclined to put the motor back together without rebuilding it. I think that is the right thing to do for the old girl. I did get the trunk cleared out tonight, and the hood open. All the parts I removed from the motor were tucked inside the trunk.

Thanks. This was actually my daily driver from 1998-2002. I then supplemented her with another car and she did not see much winter road driving. She developed a ticking sound which I didn’t really have time to fix. Long ago I posted an audio file here of the noise she made. The license plates on her expired in 2004. She ended up in the lumber yard because I moved to Louisiana for 7.5 years. At least in the 11 years she was there, she was mostly under roof. ( you can actually see the line in the dirt on the hood where rain dripped off the roof edge ). The door glass is the least of my worries right now. Once I get her cleaned up, I may drop the top and leave it down most of the time, so I don’t really need the windows much ( not saying I won’t fix it, but there are bigger fish to fry... )

So excited to see another one getting saved! I just love the red color and like Manic said, looks really solid. Congrats and I think it's so cool bringing back W-Bodies from the dead. I saved two W's from definitely getting scrapped and I found them in the same situation as you. My 91 International sat in the original owner's back yard since 09. I saved it in Dec of 2015. I bought my 93 STE last year from the original owner's son. It's been sitting in his front yard in the CA desert since 2010. I saved it this past June. Nothing beats seeing W's on Uhaul trailers, LOL! I'm using way too many exclamation points but so excited to see another CS!

My fav year for the coupes are 91-93, of course the GTP's! Since I've been to CA now and realize it's not a big deal to travel, I REALLY WISH I had saved a 91 GTP that was for sale on CL out there. It was a factory CD car with the LQ1/5 speed combo. White with grey cloth quad bucket seats. No rust and all complete. It got down to $900 bucks, didn't sell and then they owner scrapped it. It showed up on Row52.com or a similar place like that. So sad, and it's haunting me now. Remember that one Jay?

Picked up a 90 5 Speed donor car today! One more part for my black 90 TGP! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Not trying to put this car down AT ALL but I just think the inner fogs on these cars look SO MUCH BETTER than without. Still an pretty incredible little coupe!

Amen brother! That is going to be a blast to drive when you get her done!

Update on the car: After driving it a month or two, it developed a unsafe "shimmy" or weird steering shift in the steering when making a hard left at speed. I did some online research and identified a few possible causes. Like usual, I didn't take it to a professional and tried to fix it myself. I thought it was probably related to something I'd replaced over the winter. Did I mention I've not a very good mechanic? But I am persistent. Anyway . . . So, I guessed it was the subframe mounts, as the car had 240k miles and the visible sides of the mounts looked bad. When the car was up on jackstands nothing felt loose, but of course I couldn't recreate the side-loads experienced on 45-mph sweepers. So I ordered a set of four subframe mounts, watched a couple youtube videos (there aren't many for this repair on first gen w-bodys) and got to work. First, I supported the engine with a jack and a block of wood and cracked loose the four mounting bolts for the subframe mounts. But I had to use a breaker bar to break loose the rear two mounts, and in doing so I broke the weld on the cage holding the hidden nut that is trapped inside two layers of the unibody by the drivers footwell. I did NOT realize this at the time. I spent a few hours removing the rusted, disintegrated remains of the original mounts. Initially I just used a hammer and chisel to remove most of the metal and rubber. But the metal parts of the mounts were wedged into the subframe and I couldn't pry them out. After awkwardly fighting it for hours, laying on my back with limited clearance, I ended up using my angle grinder and cutting at the stuck metal pieces. Finally I got it all removed, put the new pieces in place and tried to reassemble them. I couldn't get the parts to compress together, I fought it a while before realizing I hadn't removed all of the metal from the old mount, I thought it was metal from the subframe (I'm an idiot). I tried again to compress the mounts in place but I realized that the nut was spinning and I couldn't get to it to hold it in place! I was many many hours into the project at this point, spread out over weeks of time (vacations and other projects like my 1991 speedboat kept interrupting ) so I dejectedly gave up for a few weeks and left the car in the garage. Eventually I found a thread somewhere here describing how a guy had to cut through the floor to get to the nut. So, without knowing really what I was doing I cut through the carpet and insulation, cut and pried back a few-inch-square piece of floorboard (wow it was thin metal! I've never cut a floorboard before, I just assumed it would be thicker metal), and saw the busted cage around the nut. (see pic of floorboard hole, with broken nut cage removed) Even though the passenger side cage hadn't broken, I still cut through the floor on that side just to see for myself, I figured what the heck I'm already a bajillion hours into this project. It gets worse. (Did I mention I can make an easy project into a nightmare?). Since I still couldn't get the two subframe mount halves to compress together, I found out from a Youtube video that I needed a longer bolt. But the longer bolts I bought weren't threaded all the way like the bolts that came with the mounts, and when I finally got everything back together (yay?) I didn't realize that I had just tightened the nut down to the end of the threads and it wasn't compressing the rubber mount fully. So I drove it for a few days, but the steering was even worse because the whole subframe was shifting around. I didn't realize why and thought that I'd screwed up the steering rack when I lowered the subframe. Back in the garage it went. Also I didn't realize that when you replace subframe mounts then the alignment gets screwed up so my steering was off center even worse. And with the variable assist steering on my Oldsmobile it feels weird driving with the wheel a few degrees off because the progressive assist doesn't match the on-center steering. Anyway . . . I eventually realized that maybe I should check if the subframe was tightened properly. When I checked, I could tell the bolts didn't feel tight (because the rubber had compressed more) so I tried to tighten them, couldn't (because the nut was at the end of the threads), and then FINALLY realized what was up, added more washers to allow the bolt to draw up the subframe mounts properly, adjusted my tie-rods again to center the steering wheel, and now four months later it's fixed! I've driven for a couple hundred miles and it's driving better than it has in years. I need to patch up the holes in the floorboards, currently I just bent the metal flaps I cut back into place and loosely covered with the carpet and insulation I cut out. It's all hidden under my floormats for now, but I need to spray primer on the cut metal to slow the rusting and seal it up better for water and fire protection. Looking back on the project, I can see many places where I wasted time with the wrong tools, misdiagnosed issues, stupid decisions, and other things I didn't put into this already too-long post. I spent 50+ hours of my life, lost a summer of top-down cruising, and saved . . .a few hundred dollars of mechanic charges maybe? A smart mechanic could have done the whole project much more simply, in a couple hours on a lift with the right tools and expertise. I know that doesn't seem like it's worth it, but it's the principal of fixing it all myself and keeping the car forever. Anyway, that's my story of the summer of 2019 with my vert, on my back in the garage instead of out in the sunshine. Oh well, she's back on daily driver duty, just in time for the fall rainy season. I wonder what will break next. . .

Are you looking for a parts car or a restore project?

I love that "Runs and Drives" is written on the windshield. Prolly not as good as they think.

IIRC I marked the two wires to remind me of additional things to do after the adapter was in. D-11 is the oil pressure wire and needs an older P/N switch to work with the UB3. C-13 is the other starred line and needs to tap into an existing wire on the OBD 1 harness.

As a man from the future I do appreciate this wealth of information

Get yourself a piece of history. This Cutlass supreme has a new top, new timing belt, 87500 miles. Runs great, top functions as it should, have the boot cover. Have lots of documentation with it. Only a few small problems. Drivers seat has some wear. Spoiler paint has a bubble, and a few chips, what you would expect in a car that's been driven. The control box needs to be rebuilt, the remote locks don't work. I don't have current pictures will take them when I have a few minutes. Really don't know how to price this, because this is one of a kind. I know what was paid for this car and what has been asked for regular rides, I am going to start at $8000. Included in price is $3500 spent on the new top(+mechanical work). Located in Mebane NC 27302. The signatures are under the backseat. For those of you that don't know, the last model of a production run usually get signed by the workers. Also included are the imperfections, I must say the car is dirty.

Pics Posted

Oh I know it does. The wife drives the car more than I do, she doesn’t really go anywhere unless she has to in the winter so it probably won’t be driven.

Thanks, I have a 1996, probably similar, I'll check it out

Unfortunately, yes. I am moving to a rural area with dirt roads. Not the best for this car. James

I’m in Kalamazoo.

Welcome! Where in mi are you at? My 92 has 126k as well

All this trouble from a dang faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator. Problem is fixed! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I have a spare UB3 cluster around. Ive collected 2 of them since theyre hard to find. Thats the one with the advanced features. The basic one only had speed, fuel and mileage.

2 TGP CD Players are officially sold.

Wife and I have had a '99 GTP since new. Looking to keep the thing going so I thought I'd sign up for the wealth of info I'm sure is here.

Honestly, now that you have a storage space, it might not be a bad idea to make a run up and grab it, then pull all the parts you could need and store them with your car and scrap the rest. I can't see this be worth restoring with the current rust situation, but it's an amazing parts car.

PM sent.

I do love fins, chrome and horse power just like everybody else, I have also put my foot down to other car collectors about my taste, but when I roll up in my car from 1990 among a sea of 69 Camaros and tri fives Chevys I stand out. We have the cars that were not suppose to survive but THEY DID! So make room, like it or not. I do understand that the majority of people grew up around the rear wheel drive big v8 cars but the FWD drive cars can pack a punch to.

Seems like I'm on a constant LQ1 myth buster crusade on fb. People who've never owned or maintained one acting like they're an authority. The biggest myth being how difficult it is to change a timing belt followed closely by constant head gasket failures and massive oil leaks. Then I get called a dick because I call them out for disseminating false information

Welcome. Is your Z34 white by chance? Post up some pics in the new members section and tell us a little about it. http://www.w-body.com/topic/47477-lowered-the-front-of-my-cutty/ is a good place to start for the front. I used this on my first wbody and am getting ready to do it to my second one. https://www.w-body.com/topic/55347-lowered-the-rear-of-my-cutty/ shows the parts list needed for building coil overs for the rear. Getting ready to do this again too, but this time I'm going to take more pics and provide a more detailed write-up. It's super easy.

Welcome to the community, we love pictures here.

Posting a little update. I've had the car driving since August roughly. So far I've put 6k miles on it since I completed my overhaul. The only thing that went wrong was the new radiator cap I purchased from rockauto. The seal was bad and would leak from it, however that has since been fixed. The car will be hitting its 100k milestone today!! Excited to see it! My plans for 2019 include the following. 1.) Get the mufflers and tips replaced. 2.) Address the fading trim around the convertible top, and the lip spoiler. 3.) Find a nice set of Bonneville GXP wheels for the ole girl. 4.) Clean up the underside of the car and rust proof with light suspension restoration. 5.) Replace the bad interior trim pieces. 6.) Overhaul the sound system. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Summit salesman also thought I was crazy asking if there was a product to help protect the sleeve from the spring, Whoop! DER IT IS! https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-Performance-ALL64201-Shock-Protector/dp/B00F0CE8L0 Dumbass, I should call back and try to get a salesman that knows something, I bet the 2 1/8" ID isolators are intended for 2 1/2" coilovers and the dipshit didn't know because him and his Honda Homeboys never deemed it necessary.

actually, you're limited to 255MPH, but it's not like you could see that unless you drove off a cliff.

I bet it does. Judging by the rust, probably became unsafe to drive in the frame areas.

I thought I would list this here first, hoping this car goes to someone that will take care of it. 54K miles $4250. James