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Here is More Vintage W-body Photos that I been meaning to get myself to share

Long time no see everyone! Been a member for many years, but the time has come to pass the torch onto someone else. For sale is my 3500 swapped 96 Grand Prix coupe, currently listed at $4495 with all goodies/accessories included. Details are in the long ad, but it has all of the mods you would expect. Some particular notes for this group - it includes the Digital Horsepower tuning kit, a laptop setup for it (if desired), double roller timing chain setup, several WOT Tech pieces including cam and TB, and the 96 Drivers Information Console waiting to be installed. I just don't have the time to enjoy this sleeper any longer! She is located in the St. Louis metro area in Illinois. https://tinyurl.com/sleepergp Happy to answer any questions. Not willing to part out accessories unless a buyer comes forward that does not want/need some of the included accessories.

More 1988 Olds Indy 500 Pics

Definitely make sure you check those spring seats. GM's awful water-retaining design + GM powdercoat + road salt = almost certain failure after a while. And the cartridge design unfortunately allows one to get away with, at least for a while, not even taking the strut towers apart to inspect the seats properly. They're cheap parts to source (like $4 each side from Rockauto w/bearing), but when one of mine went it cost me $700 because it was in the middle of nowhere in northern Montana :(. BTW, welcome to the club! Lots of great people here, and most things on the W-bodies are idiot-proof fortunately. Stock brakes rather suck on the pre-1994 models. And the rear disc brakes are prone to seizing and aren't the best design either. Replacing ball joints can be a nasty affair as they're riveted on -- if you have the strut towers off the car for any reason (perhaps to inspect/change-out the spring seats), do give consideration to replacing the ball joints or at least grinding the rivets and replacing with good quality high-grade bolts. 3800's run forever -- that's the least of your worries with the car! Check to make sure the pads on the rear fiberglass leaf spring are intact, and if they're missing, repair/replace accordingly.

Sorry, false alarm. So, i was working late on it. I was tired. I didn't have the battery connected properly. Thought when i saw some sparks from a little earlier that it was from that. After some sleep everything is okay right now. If you want to delete this so not to waste peoples time in a search that'd be fine with me.

I took my wife to dinner tonight in the vert. It was a nice evening and we had the top down. Took the long way home just to drive lol.

Could be a remanned or crate engine too.

the SOHC wasnt used in the W cars

1 (ONE) 1997 LQ1 Lumina made. It was Kodiak White LTZ with gray leather.

Wash/wax on my GP. Been neglecting my car for awhile. Decided to clean her up this evening. Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Honestly, now that you have a storage space, it might not be a bad idea to make a run up and grab it, then pull all the parts you could need and store them with your car and scrap the rest. I can't see this be worth restoring with the current rust situation, but it's an amazing parts car.

Just thought I'd introduce myself. I'm partial to A-Bodies, particularly coupes. I own two 1988 Ciera coupes but I recently picked up a 1989 Regal coupe. I hope this forum will be as useful to me as the A-Body forum is. Thanks for having me.

When inspecting the underside of my 'vert', I've found that some incompetents' lifted the car incorrectly, and crushed the frame gussets under the floor pan. I straightened them out, as well as I can, and find that the car is much more stable, with less scuttle shake. If you have a convertible, I suggest you look into yours.

Weird. I’d think you’d get a lot of sparks and a very hot wire rather than electrical damage. Need more info though. My first thoughts are to check fuses. Check under hood and interior as well. If it’s not that maybe you buggered the ecm or possibly the icm. Will the engine turn over? Does it try and fire? Have you checked for spark?

Also, I am such a fucking idiot, I'm sorry. I had Cutlass Calais in my head. The Ciera is an A-body; they still have a somewhat active community over at A-body.net.

Finally figured out what the issue was...it was the vacuum modulator. A $22 part from AutoZone held in by one bolt easily accessable on the transmission right under the air box. So glad to have it back up and running again!

That'd be great! I sent the guy an offer for that lamp, it's the exact one I need.

Here's the right tail lamp if this is the one you need. I also have info for an NOS left lamp if you want me to PM them to you. https://www.ebay.com/itm/PONTIAC-GRAND-PRIX-RH-TAIL-LAMP-1988-1996-NEW-GM-in-Box/113715016932?hash=item1a79f174e4:g:ePAAAOSwUpFcEEnD

It's not what I'd prefer to use, but lots of folks do, and clearly the cooler manufacturers use those fittings so they clearly have confidence in them. Given any choice, I'd stay the hell away from typical worm-drive clamps due to the damaged hoses they promote . "Fuel Injection" clamps work much better--if you can get them large enough. Be careful of the hose you use. Typical "fuel" hose is NOT appropriate. PS return hose works well if the pressure rating is high enough. Best bet is the push-lock style hose from the hot-roddy aftermarket like Aeroquip, Russell, etc. Done properly, you wouldn't need clamps at all.

Probably N/A at this point sounds like, but for whats it worth, my RKE module would not go into program mode (using the jumper) because the solder joints were bad in the module. I used a test light to verify I had power going to the RKE module. Once verified, I perfomed the RKE solder fix, then it would enter program mode. I know you have an aftermarket device installed, but you could still have a faulty RKE module, but not sure it matters at this point.

I don't know about 4T65E specifically, but typical trans cooler pressure is 30 psi to 80 psi. High pressure in the cooling circuit means high pressure in the torque converter--which means the crankshaft thrust bearing is in danger. The cooler return flow doesn't get dumped into the pan, that's what lubricates the geartrain.

For that year/model, it got 180HP for a 5-speed, and 160HP for an automatic. From: https://consumerguide.com/used/1990-97-oldsmobile-cutlass-supreme/ ======= In 1990, both the base Cutlass and the sporty International Series came with the new 180-horsepower, 2.3-liter High Output version of the Quad 4 engine mated to a 5-speed manual transmission. For those preferring an automatic, the standard 3-speed gearbox required dropping to the meeker 160-horsepower Quad 4. The High Output version delivered 160 pound-feet of torque at 5200 rpm while the basic Quad 4 did nearly as well, with 155 pound-feet of torque at 5200 rpm. In 1990, the V6 provided to be the weakest engine offered, producing only 135 horsepower at 4400 rpm and 180 pound-feet of torque at 3600. ======== About the Quad4, also see: https://jalopnik.com/heres-why-the-quad-4-was-one-of-gms-most-important-engi-1829719965 From: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quad_4_engine ======= From 1989 to 2009, the Quad 4 held the title of being General Motors' most powerful naturally aspirated regular production four-cylinder engine (with the exception of the 2.92L I4 Atlas engines used in 2007-2012 Chevrolet Colorados and GMC Canyons). Only recently was the LG0's 180 bhp (134 kW) rating eclipsed when the 2010 model year 2.4 L (2,392.3 cc) Ecotec LAF was launched in the Buick Lacrosse and Chevrolet Equinox. The LAF has a rated output of 182 hp (136 kW) but does so with an 11.4:1 compression ratio, gasoline direct injection and variable valve timing. =======

That "little rubber hose" is a vacuum line... When the diaphragm in the regulator goes bad it can leak gas and fill up the vacuum line... Doesn't always work that way,,, BUT,,, it is a pretty good indication of a bad FPR... I had actually forgotten about that "trick"... As I said (somewhere not too long ago) I haven't had or worked on ANY GM product in quite a few years... I haven't even had a car or driven since last Feb... Can't afford much,,, but,,, I am looking!!! I'm stuck in a rest home for now and it really sucks not being able to go anywhere!!! Tom B...

I'm very tempted to go pick that up. However, the fact that the engine was "replaced" gives me pause. If it was a 72k engine in a 72k mile car, that price is a no-brainer. However, there's a nearly 0% chance he found another similarly low mileage engine to put into it. I guess there's a chance it was rebuilt, but the ad says "replaced motor".

oh man that thing is beautiful. a Q5 HO car like that is the one remaining w body unicorn on my list

Then there's this gorgeous low mileage 90 CS International coupe for sale right now for just $2500!!! It's a Quad 4/5 speed car!!! I believe these have the High Output version. https://tricities.craigslist.org/ctd/d/elizabethton-1990-oldsmobile-cutlass/6939640577.html

4, 3 sedans and 1 blue/blue coupe.

Ok guys, here's the numbers on the LQ1 Lumina production. Give props to Jay, he's the best and without him, we wouldn't have this info. I was surprised to see the high numbers on these LQ1 cars. Maybe they were clearing out their parts bins before the 3800 dropped? 15,988 1995 LQ1 Lumina's made. 6% of total production. 5232 of those had the column shifter. 2,054 1996 LQ1 Lumina's made. 1.6% of total production. 2 of those had the column shifter. Pretty rare for the 1996 model year.

Iirc they got the lq1 until about halfway through 1997.

Post please, inquiring minds want to know, I thought they got the 3800 instead so I`m sort of wondering myself ATM.

Yes, these boots are difficult to put on. I changed out all the velcro on my 94. Made a world of a difference.

I'll post or pm them to you tonite.

I gave @jiggity76 those numbers, with and without floor shift. Let's see if he still has them, if not I can look them up again.

The GP with the red wires, that one hurts. The rusty STE, not so much. It would make a good parts car. Shame to see a rusty one.

Have you ever seen anything done like this before?

Thing is, you can clearly see the trunk lock. On an STE, it would be hidden by the trim?

did you replace it so there is velco all around? mine has the weird square plastic snaps...velcro may be a good alternative, I never use it because its a pain to install

Awesome pics Chris. I will save some for a similar thread over on the A-body board.

when I installed the KYB shocks on the rear of my GXP the spring from the bilsteins seemed way to strong for the shock which resulted in the rear of my car bouncing a little. If anything id get a whole set of GTP rear shock assemblies. They did clear my 18" wheels

Locking extensions are a BIG help also... I DO realize this is an OLD thread!!! Tom B...

Me too, the bags aren't even blown on the one car. Such a shame. Why can't we just stop running into each other!!!

The panel from the 1990 model looks different because it mates with the Delco-Loc cassette players with the graphic equalizer of the same year. The "MUTE" button will unlock the radio if necessary. The 1992-93 panels are different in appearance simply due to revision of the part, and their "MUTE" button will not unlock the Delco-Loc cassette player. All of the CD players of the era were Delco-Loc II (user-entered code).

Perhaps a few more detailed description of the problem, assuming there's already a key involved.

I bought a pair of the 3D printed pin cups, they look and fit great! I thought about painting them to protect the plastic from UV damage, but I'll do it later when I paint my windshield frame and sideview mirrors. The first picture is comparing my broken original with the new one, using my calibrated finger gauges The second picture is the pin cup in place. I don't have time to disassemble the header for something like this, so I just dropped them in from the top. My old snap rings had fallen off a few years ago, so my pin cups have been held in place with some double-sided tape as a temporary solution. Now that I have a replacement part, I will use some adhesive to hold them in place. Thanks again, Kzwxlf! I'll post an update here in a year or two (or sooner if they break).

Took a couple inventory pictures today so I can see what else needs ordered. That's a LOT of bad-ass for one picture! So far I see springs, isolators, the tube isolators to keep the springs from wrecking the threads on the sleeves, and another set of bushings since I cannot find the missing one for that lat link.

I'm surprised that, adjusted for inflation, that car cost (in todays dollars) $34,788.91!!

Subscribed, because my '92 has stiff steering, and some memory. I suspect the bearing(s) are seized or nearly seized. I'll be dicking with it some time in the future.

I know, I know, there are other methods! For me this is by far the easiest. I don't want to to use ramps to do spark plugs though, or disconnect the dogbone if I don't have to. I kinda did this writeup just so in a year or whenever I do this again, I don't have to do any of that, and I don't have to scratch my head trying to remember! Just seemed like a good alternative for someone who doesn't like taking crap apart to do something that shouldn't require taking crap apart