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It worked! Thanks for all the pointers. All I did was reflow the old solder so I left the rear deck cover off for now, the cover was very sun damaged anyway. But at least I have a working key fob now. IMG_7474.mov

How long has it been since the strut bearings were lubricated or replaced?

It's been a while since I've logged in. I was more of a lurker back in those days... But I'm glad to see the forum is still up and operating!! Happy New Year Everyone!!

55 linked some w-body specific links. You may also check into the Fiero groups and see how their wiring is done and which PCM's they use. If you're on Facebook go to this group https://www.facebook.com/share/g/16TmFr1XSe/ They specialize in Fiero's, but he's posted a ton of info on wiring and PCM's. the concept will be the same, even if the wiring plugs to match the rest of the car harness don't line up.

So, the stop switch doesn’t function, but I can way more live with that, everything else functions perfectly.

Matt... In one of those uploaded pics you supplied....there are 4 zener diodes inside the housing (those 4 black & silver round items look like them). If any one of them has failed (shorted) that will upset the operation of the control mechanism. One can see the diode array in the attached pic

Apparently It’s called a spring plate. If I’m seeing things correctly, it seems like it’s used to attach to lower part of a spring compressor.

The bearings were never intended to go unattended for periods this long. they are located in the centre of the lower spring seat, in a steel encased raceway, I can't remember precisely but there is approx 60 maybe 70 small ball bearings in the race. One has to disassemble the strut off the car to get at them. I've done them twice now in the time I've owned the car. Even tho you can hear the groaning you may still be able to salvage them, one has to remove the race from the spring seat, remove the upper cap, drop them all out into a pan & clean them all, clean out the raceway, reapply a healthy amount of EP grease and set them back into the race, press the cap back down on & reinsert the race back into the spring seat. It is time consuming....and one needs a spring compressor.

Seven years later I finally got to it. Life gets in the way sometimes. It was a splice gone bad on the engine side, orange wire C461. DIC and scan data restored.

Does the 94-97 engine use a different harmonic balancer to account for the additional crank pulley? That could explain it. I assume you're installing on a 91-93 engine? Also even all these years later I never knew ASP was a company let alone made parts for these cars.

that sounds awesome i’ll check that out thanks man, picking up a 98 integra thursday , hoping to have the corsica running as soon as i get that harness connector 3d printed (hmu if needed for that 4 port my buddy is making a model for me)

Wow this thing is beautiful!!

I originally did the 2 ICs, but then had to do it again not too long after (can't remember if months or years). So I ended up just reflowing every single joint and that kept it working well over a decade. I added flux to every joint and added a little new solder, but I didn't remove any old solder. If you plan to desolder first, then I'd recommend finding vintage 60/40 solder (with lead). If all you can get is RoHS solder, then it'd be a good idea to keep the old solder as it still has lead. Leadless RoHS solder are famous for solder joints going bad over time. Checking the caps is a good idea. I didn't do that at the time, but I've had to change out enough electrolytic caps to know they have a finite life.

Basically the 2 big ICs are the biggest areas of concern. For me over the long run reflowing the joints is a temporary fix, I've had more success in adding some good solder. Recently I've purchased a proper desoldering tool and I'll just clean out the solder and start over with fresh

That's a daunting swap! Wish I had the balls to do it, but I draw the line at cutting away at a unibody frame that likely wouldn't have won any 1995 IIHS safety awards in the first place. You're all good BCM-wise, there isn't one.

Lol.....you're not the first to attempt this swap......

Welcome! That sounds like a somewhat ambitious swap. A 95 would have had the 4t60e, which has the shifts controlled electronically. Outside of physically fitting in the engine bay, I can’t see any of the existing electronics functioning with an LS4. On the flip side…it’s an LS4. I know there are aftermarket companies that make ECMs that can run LS series engines, as well as standalone TCMs specifically for the 4T80e, so finding the parts to run the powertrain should be possible, and likely relatively easy as well. Best of luck! While ambitious….it would be awesome to see something like this completed!

Yep, I've probably removed the bezel a hundred times across 3 Cutlass Supremes and it's never broken. It's hard plastic and seems brittle, but it's actually quite durable.

That's your only option. Once those screws are out, you have to pull that bezel towards you as it's held on with tension clips. The clips are metal and won't break. I've never had a problem with the bezel breaking either. It will sound like it's going to break...creaking and moaning, but it will come. Also, I just disconnect the connector for the headlamps switch, I don't remove it from the bezel. With the bezel out, you'll see two 7 mm screws I think they are that holds the radio to the main dash. They will be at the bottom of the radio. The radio will slide out and give you some room to disconnect the connectors from the back of it. Disregard the dash pad being off. It's not necessary to remove the pad when just removing the radio.

Loctite Hysol 11C glue is actually a really good 2-part epoxy. I use it to repair lots of things. I keep it inside, but the shelf life has been pretty good, lasting over 2-decades. Used it last December and it was still good. That Dorman kit worked pretty well for me, I think I repaired at least 2 W-bodies with it and never had a repeat repair. Shame it's not sold any more. It was supposed to be equivalent to OEM replacement ends and looked identical, so you didn't need the Moog blocks with them.

Those aren't resistors but rectifier diodes. The 3rd small box is a small low power relay. Looks like the purpose is to cut power to the main relay coils when the sunroof hits end of travel so you don't accidentally burn up the motor. I'm surprised it needed a protection circuit like that as I don't think power window motors are protected like that. Only part # I could find for sunroof relay is 20652833. Can't find any photos of it, so I don't know if that was the right one.

I said screw it cut/spliced the old ends on the new relay module with the single wire changeover to match, and aside from not having tested the end switch (routing is a pain) it works flawlessly. I’m gonna get some proper crimp connections or solder joints and clean it up before reinstalling.

I need to take a good look and compare these two sometime (just haven’t had a chance). Even if not a direct replacement, should easily be able to make something work. I did look into just buying a few replacement relays for my original unit, but that doesn’t help if it’s a broken trace. That and I’m rubbish at soldering haha.

Any idea what the resistors are for Nate? That’s really the only thing that looks different. I’m gonna look up the relays but I can only assume (and I think the wiring diagram confirms, for check again) that both units just have two identical NO relays. So assuming all the wiring to them is the same, requiring the ends should in theory work. I mean it’s just power, one relay for each side, and essentially an end switch to stop the motor once it hits fully open/closed

I have zero issues doing this physically, I just have no idea if the internals of this newer one are the same, and I’m not sure I want to bastardize both and end up with nothing haha I was gonna plug the old one in and close it so I could at least drive it but it makes getting to this piece 1000x more difficult lol edit: I looked over the traces and didn’t visibly see anything that stood out, but given it works sometimes (without any perceivable reason) it may be something I can’t see. I thought about ordering replacement relays but I’m not sure that would work. I’m very tempted to cut wires in the middle and put the old ends on the new wires in the appropriate order and see what happens. I just wish I knew

The sunroof switch is a rocker switch, depending on which side of the switch one presses (front side or rear side) the switch closes the circuit to either the forward relay or the back relay. The direction of sunroof movement remains in play until the end of stroke as long as one has the switch pressed. If the sunroof glass has been opened & one presses the front side of the rocker switch the glass moves forward to the closed position, one releases the switch at the point the glass is closed to keep the glass closed, if one continues to hold down the front side of the switch the glass will open up to the vent position. The same control function takes place when retracting the glass to full open, when the glass goes to full open the glass stops moving, the load comes up on the motor circuit, no voltage is flowing, so both relays go open, this same action applies when the vent goes to fully open.

It looks like the end plug is wired the same (looks like power?) but has a different connector, and the second to last one as well and has the same connector, so the main difference is on the original the first plug (that goes to the stop switch) has three wires, but on the new it only has 2, with the third wire going to the second plug instead; both of those having different connectors as well. I’d bet this would function the same if repinned/spliced to the correct connectors. Some are different sizes so I don’t think I can just reuse the end connectors without splicing

Pics since they wouldn’t upload here https://imgur.com/a/0TaF7Mj Link from Nate for diagram https://charm.li/Pontiac/1992/Grand Prix V6-204 3.4L DOHC/Repair and Diagnosis/Diagrams/Electrical Diagrams/Sunroof %2F Moonroof/

First Guess: Once you have it all apart far enough to lube them...you'll discover that the roller elements and the races are scarred from lack of lube, and they just plain need to be replaced. And that's fine...but then you figure you might as well replace the struts while you have it apart. And if you're gonna slap struts on it, you might as well upgrade the springs. And the control arm bushings, and sway-bar bushings. Which is a perfect time to check and replace the ball joints if needed. By that time, the brakes are apart, so replace the calipers, check the rotors and pads for wear, and deal with whatever you find including the brake hoses and maybe the ABS wheel-speed sensors and front hubs. Well, you have it that far apart, so a quick-ratio rack 'n' pinion with fresh tie rod ends isn't so much more work, and that means flushing the PS fluid, too. Some folks think a real PS cooler is a good idea--better than a bunch of tubing looped back-and-forth like the OEM "cooler"...

Yep, strut bearing can make that sound. Does it make that sound on the ground too? I feel like I remember them being noisier with no load.

She dont look like much kid but she's got it where it counts...

I've been working on this for the last four days, and it took over 120 cycles (what the manual says could be "several" but I lost count) of back-and-forth rotation to get it to where there were no more air bubbles and the pump was finally quiet again. Determined to fix this once and for all, I had gotten an OEM pump off a junkyard Z34 and installed it, then proceeded with the bleeding procedure in cycles of 10 at a time. I've replaced the pump at least three times before over the years, and have tried the cold-weather fluid as well. Nothing has ever worked and most things just made it worse, because the problem all along has been pump cavitation from air in the system that I never knew the right way to bleed it out.

So I know it has been a while, but in case this is still a problem for anyone and for future reference, I found that I have been doing the bleeding procedure incorrectly - and most of the YouTube instructional videos are too. I found the proper procedure in the FSM and I'm posting it here. BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM After replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system, you must bleed air from the system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise and over time could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system, proceed as follows: 1. Begin with the engine off, front wheels off the ground. and wheels turned all the way to the left. 2. Add either standard power steering fluid or optional cold climate fluid, to the "FULL COLD" mark on the fluid level indicator. Refer to MAINTENANCE AND LUBRICATION (SECTION OB) for information on power steering fluids. 3. Bleed the system by turning the wheels side to side without hitting the stops. ! Important This may require turning the wheels from side to side several times. Keep the fluid level at the "FULL COLD" mark. Fluid with air in it has a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from the fluid before normal steering action can be obtained. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "FULL COLD" mark. 5. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to the ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes. 6. Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise. ! Important Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system. 7. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 3 and 4 except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.

For those in the states one doesn't HAVE to approach CMV, for me they're not far away, but keep in mind that the company has changed ownership & the staff now there are not the staff who used to fab these springs 20 + years ago. The last time I spoke with the current owner John Geropolous none of the staff had any experience putting together one of these multi leaf springs to replace the glas leaf. When the original owner Alex Vitanoski & his son left they took the know how with them. But that aside any capable spring shop can fab up a replacement for the glas leaf, all they need is the car, the old spring & do the formula to make a 2 leaf or 3 leaf replacement that will be either a high arc or shallow arc, oem height or custom height depending on what you the owner are looking for. The indepth part is getting either outboard side of the chassis mounting points exactly the same arc so the back end of the car sits even. Because of their lack of knowledge I did not go to them, instead I used a spring shop close to home to fab what is currently under the car.

buy 4 rear lateral links for a 97+ grand prix. They are adjustable. The 97+ link will bolt in and work no issues to replace the 1st gen rear arm the 97+ link will not bolt in for the front of the 1st gen arm - but if you cut 1 inch out of the arm, and re-thread an extra inch (find a 55trucker post on this) they will fit no issues. My recommendation is to match the length of the new arms identical to the 1st gen arm and you will have no issues getting it aligned. ' I have 97+ adjustable arms on the rear of my cutlass. the only issues I've had with alignment is when i installed them and they were the wrong length side to side. Make them the same as the 1st gen and you'll be golden.

The design for the Lumina/Monte Carlo items were altered from a rectangular box to what you see, the part #'s also changed, there's no cross reference back to the previous design. the suspension member is still the same item as is the rear knuckles, the Monte's don't make use of the rear transverse leaf.

good looking car....if you need to shop for a new motor and pump I had trouble finding one, so i ended up using one from a 1994 mustang. i had to change the electrical connector, but the hydraulic lines fit perfect. Even the grommets holding it down lined up with the original..

If you want to find out the real problem, you have to start by doing a compression test. An educated guess would be that your head gasket is gone, and if you're mechanically inclined, wouldn't be too hard to do on an MPFI. Now the thing is that in order to make sure it's not a piston ring or valve seal, you're going to have to also do a leakdown test when you do the compression test. That would give you a better idea to what's going on. I know someone stated you might need a new head but if you can salvage the engine, it would be the cheapest option.

3400 would be the easiest swap, no need to change the harness. 3500 is a little more work than the 3400. I have some information on the swap in one of my old post approximately 6-8years ago now.

UPDATE; Thanks for everyone's help. Well, it wasn't the Relay. I traced a continuity issue back to the "Up/Down" switch on the console. Took apart the switch and found the metal "rocker" contact was shorter on the one end that was supposed to be contacting the "Down" side. I was able to manually jump across each contact to move the top "up" and "down", so, I knew everything worked; I just had to get the contacts closer. I bent the shorter end a little and it now makes good contact. I can't imagine how it became shorter; did it break on the end?...I don't know. I did put the piece under a magnifying glass and I asked my wife if she could see anything unusual about the piece and she immediately said, "one end is shorter" Here is a pic of the inside of the switch and a pic of the "rocker" contact.

Use the trans that is in the 88 and the ecm from the 2.8 as well. If the 95 doesn't have the coolant temp sensor for the Guage/light in the rear head you will have to install a 3 wire temp sensor where the 2 wire is. The throttle cable from the 95 is needed as well. If your '88 has a 3spd you will have to rig up a kick down cable linkage on the throttle body some how. I welded a bracket to the throttle body myself, wasn't perfect but it made it drivable. Sure there may be some other things that I'm missing since it has been about 6 years since I swapped my old lumina!

I have the TV cable adjusted the best I can right now, 47-4800 is the best that I can do with the kick down set up that I have right now. A tune is going to be done in the next few months when the cash flow will allow. it also needs some 2.5" exhaust and the tall tires are not helping it off the line... lol

any '96-03 3400 will drop right in with the 1st gen OBD2 harness. You will have the easiest time with a '97 system (harness and PCM), I'd go with that. A '96 system would work as well (though it's less tunable should you go that route), but with either setup you go with, grab a PCM from a '96-97 Venture/Montana/Silhouette.

I used the stock ecm and injectors in my 90 z24. I did use the 3400 fpr as it was a higher psi. It ran 14.8 with 3in exhaust and a cold air intake. Never ran lean and made great power. Many mustangs didn't know what hit them. I got 26 mpg running 95 mph down to kansas and 30 coming back going 75.

the last 2 3400 swaps I did used 3.1 injectors on stock obd1 ecm's and they both run fine. the bigger injectors will make more power with a tune, but the first thing I would do is start with a better fuel pump. when I first put the 3100 in my old 84 cavalier I went to the track then swapped to a Camaro LT1 fuel pump and went back the next weekend with no other changes an dropped almost 4 tenths off my ET. if I was doing a basic (stock) 3400 swap on a obd1 car I would use 96-99 3400 or 3100 injectors with matching fuel rail (2000+ injectors will not work on stock ecm) or 2.8/3.1 injectors with a 2000+ 3400 fuel rail that has the higer pressure regulator. But if I was mooding a 3400 and dropping it in I would use injectors sized for the fuel requirements of the engine and a full tune.

once i find them, i'll pull up the pictures i took of my new bushings i got from GM this past summer when i did my 5 speed swap, i know they were defiantly different part numbers and they did look different. fake edit: i found one of the pictures of them!

just a FYI the front mounts and back mounts ARE different on these cars.