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  1. *Big Update 12-20-2016* I finally put the lists to spreadsheet and html format. I don't have them hosted for direct viewing currently, but they can be downloaded here: link expires in 30 days. The file size is small, something like 165kb. It unpacks to about 6.9mb and includes the 89 Coupe, 90 Coupe, and 90 TSTE list in both spreadsheet and html formats. All of the lists are technically incomplete, but they're far more complete than you will likely ever see. There are supposed to be 751 1989 coupes, 2,749 1990 coupes, and 1,000 Turbo STE sedans. Those numbers are stated by the Pontiac Historical Society and Compnine also listed the exact same numbers. The totals I ended up at are 734 for the 1989 coupes, 2,740 for the 1990 coupes, and only 200 some odd Turbo STE sedans. The sedan list is so far off because I never got around to running through the list for them. I did add about 150+ cars to it during the course of doing the 1990 coupe list so at least we have that...The VIN program I used quit working before I got around to making my final pass through of the 1990 coupe list. I made it from the 200,000-277,000 range and only added one car I had missed in my previous methods. I also crossed off one car in that range that I had accidentally listed that was not real. Considering I only came up with one car in that large range, I kinda doubt I would have ever produced the other supposed 9 cars made from 277,000 to about 306,XXX. I need to thank a few people below for their help with this. Skitchin - Huge thanks to him for automating the process and literally knocking months or even years off of this project. turbo-v-sick - Thanks for doing all the leg work on the 1989 coupe list! He has also dug up tons of history and photos on these cars that we might not have ever found without him. ManicMechanic - Thanks for helping with the VIN project and constantly posting pictures and information on these cars making it easier for me to document them. I wouldn't have come across a fraction of the ones you do because I wasn't aware of half of those auction, salvage, etc. sites until you brought them to my attention. I'm probably forgetting some people here, but thanks to anyone that helped in any way, big or small! I wanted to turn in the list in a much more complete format but unfortunately it didn't turn out that way. Too bad compnine did away with the several free vin checks per day when my list was still in its infancy. Those were handy in filling out the color and option info on these cars. Eventually I would like to contact them about getting a custom account and have several people help go through and document the vins. That will not be any time soon though. I'm tired of looking at those numbers for now. I will be lightly modifying the list over time. I have some extra little blurbs of information on some cars I will include in a text document alongside it later. I also want to go through all my old car photos and pull any TGP ones that I documented by vin to upload to a directory to accompany the list. Don't hold your breath on either of those things as it will be quite a while before I get around to them..
  2. Hows it going guys, had to get a new radiator due to a leak, wont use any kind of stop-leak unless the manufacturer agrees to buy me a new car. So i of course order the bigger radiator from AZ, got it and installed it all the while distracted enough to forget to space the damn cooling fans and the drivers side fan ate a hole into the radiator. No problem, under warranty got another coming. What im wondering is if anyone has had this situation before and what was used to space the fans out slightly enough to clear the radiator and on any of the w-body 3100`s out there are any known to have fan shrouds? Figured some washers would be good enough, dont know. Kind of drunk and just wanting to talk cars i guess.
  3. Am I going to have to actually go into a store and talk to people face to face? Please say no...I just want to order them online like a good introvert.
  4. I got a 99 lumina 3.1 with a evap leak code.I have replaced purge solenoid,gas cap,filler neck, canister purge vent in that order and code keeps triggering. Code is getting triggered after I burn past 1/4 tank from stenting drive cycle but will not complete room I get the error. Have check over all hoses and not seeing any cracks. Any help would be helpful.
  5. For sale or trade. Will trade for good condition base digital cluster no tachometer. Also will trade for a good condition 3/8 drive ratchet style torque wrench. Not exactly sure which years this cluster fits, but I do know it fits various years. It's the international version with tachometer made in Japan by Denso. Part number is 16124373. There are some other numbers on it too, and these can be seen in the pictures. Lens is not cracked but does have some scratches which is normal. Seal is still in place, and it looks like the cluster has never been opened. I received this cluster when I bought the car recently. Seller informed me that the standard three gauge cluster was malfunctioning, and that he had tried to use the Denso cluster, but it did not work because the pin outs are different. I am going to have my standard three gauge cluster repaired instead of trying to re-pin or hack on the wiring to get the international version to work. $40 shipped via US post mail standard to continental USA, and the part is sold as is. I will take Paypal or postal money order. I will have to use a whole roll of bubble wrap on it three to four inches thick. Edit: Got the cluster fired up, and it is sitting under the hood of my car when the pictures were taken. The yellowish glow on the cluster is my engine bay lamp reflection. Hard to take a picture outside with all the glare, but that's where the 12 volts was at that I needed to light it up. Edit: Found the part number on the web. It fits 88-93. And on the notes it fit some 94's.
  6. Hello Everyone! It has been a long time since I have posted on this forum. I was unemployed for at least 4 months, and during the first month of unemployment I overheated the Chevy Lumina, and I had it towed home to prevent further damage. I bought a second vehicle as the new job was going to have a longer commute time. The Lumina has sat in the garage, and I have wondered if it was worth to fix, or send it to the junk yard. I decided to keep it, and learn from what I did wrong, and so the adventure has been fun. I have removed the heads, and had them checked, cleaned and surfaced. The Lower Intake manifold gaskets were completely blown. I noticed the lower intake manifold had pitting around the coolant jackets, and I bought another one from a yard to prevent possible failure when I put everything back together. While I have the motor torn completely down. I am wanting to know how to remove the oil pan, and replace the gasket. I have read some people have suggested pulling the motor out. I am optimistic as I have read someone managed to tilt the pan in order to remove it. I have pulled the 10MM bolts that are around the pan, but still finding a way to get at the bolts on the side of the pan. The pan sits on the mount. I am looking for suggestions on the best way to continue forward to remove it. Does anyone have a write up? I have removed the A/C compressor, the Starter, the transmission bracket, Starter Fly-Wheel Cover, oil-filter windage tray, and the passenger side motor mount is un bolted. Pictures to follow soon.
  7. The front bumper has quite a bit of damage on my GP and the hood also has a big spot that needs attention. In order to address this and hopefully add some "flair", I am going to plasti-dip some hood/bumper stripes. If I like them enough, I might paint them. I took some pictures of possible stripes and am looking for some input on what anyone thinks will look best or if anyone has any suggestions. There's a good amount of gouges in the middle of the bumper, but on the passenger side, some damage extends to around where the middle of "PONTIAC" would be, so I'm trying to cover as much of that as possible. Please look at the pictures and tell me what you think. I know the lines aren't perfect, but I'll make sure they are before I plasti-dip it.
  8. TravisP


    Anyone willing to share who is doing your tuning? I have a '96 3.1 Lumina that we tried a '97 computer with a tune on it and it wouldn't run. I put the '96 back in and it runs without any codes, but you can tell it is less than ideal. If you want particulars on the motor you can look at my profile. Basically It has ported heads, upper and lower intake, and a performance cam. The only one in my area that I would trust to dyno tune it is booked and the mail order I referred to didn't work. I have a stall converter and it runs great once you hit part throttle. I know I can't expect stock bottom end, but I know with tuning it can be better. If anyone has any suggestions on what trouble codes need to be disabled to make the '97 work it would be greatly appreciated:biggrin:
  9. I've had a Zendar screen-tronic inside glass mount antenna in my Grand National for 20 years with great success. I've been looking for one for my Cutlass vert. I found this website that may or may not sell then, I can't make heads or tails of the language. Can one of our overseas members or anyone please interpret / Order (2) of these for me? Thank you
  10. Hi all. I just swapped my stock air box for the ZZP CAI. I'm not a fan of the Flexaust stuff that comes with it. I know it's decent stuff, insulated and all. I'm trying to find some green silicone tubing, or green anything tubing that I can replace the silver flexaust with. Could just be a 15* or 45* coupler I guess. Trim it down to where I need it. A company called Mishimoto has some bright-ass lime green, just not in 4" (that i can find). There's a UK based website: . Special order and expensive.... Anyone know anything within the US? Thanks!
  11. I have a 1996 Lumina that we raised our four children in. I love the car for those sentimental reasons plus I just think they are good looking cars. Now that the kids are raised it is time to do something fun with it and make it better than new. I work as a CNC Machinist and port cylinder heads and intakes on the side. I have rebuilt the 3.1Liter motor using good quality products in the bottom end, I ported the heads and added bigger valves as well as porting the upper and lower intake manifolds. I also added a Comp Cams street/strip grind hydraulic roller cam offered by WOT Tech. What brought me here is the fact that I am not close to anyone who tunes, and the mail order from WOT Tech does not seem to work. We tried a '97 computer with their tune and it wouldn't run. He is at a loss because he has had the same problem with Monte Carlos but does fine with Pontiacs and Olds. I am running on the stock '96 computer with no trouble codes, but it has no low end. From part throttle on it runs much better than any naturally aspirated 3.8 I have ever rode in. I would like to get the tuning issues ironed out so I can start on suspension upgrades, paint, and interior:biggrin:
  12. This is something I have been wondering about for awhile. From what I can tell you had to special order a GS and I wanna assume that the production #s were low. You don't see many around today and there are 2 that I know of where I live. My '93 and a '92 that I see every now and then. It would be cool if a list could be found of GS production for '88-'02. It would help all of the Regal owners on here.
  13. Hi, im new to the l67 (or any variation thereof). I got bored one day so I got on craigslist to see what I had to offer. i bought a totaled 2001 ssei Bonneville. not too much damage but the insurance company thought other wise. After searching the forums I wanted to come up with a 1 of a kind swap that would be easy and cheap to build, be unique, and be a sleeper. I found a 1998 vw beetle. then I got to measuring and cutting. sorry for some reason the pics are not in order. I cut the Pontiac at the firewall. then I cut the REAR floor pan and trunk floor. measured and notched the vw frame. I put the Pontiac subframe and unibody in place and started welding and plating. then I cut the rear deck out of the Pontiac and placed it over the engine in the rear of the car.
  14. I've been going through search for an hour, but didn't find what I was looking for. On a 91 Regal, I've had the rear calipers off to check them out. The handbrake lever on the right side was stiff and reluctant to return, and some bolts were very tight, but everything's fine now after much cleaning and grunting .. What I need to know is the order of what to do after getting the pistons screwed all the way down, pads put back in and the calipers remounted on the car. Do I firstly have to press the main brake pedal to move the pistons out so the pads touch the rotor, or should I operate the parking brake mechanism first to achieve this? Or do I ratchet the parking brake actuating levers by hand until the pads touch the rotors? I've seen some posts which mention having to use the parking brake regularly to maintain the correct adjustment of the pistons, so I suspect it should be parking brake first to set the pads up up against the rotors. I got the parking brake cables ready for the final adjustment after everything else has been done. Cheers!
  15. Both strut bolts broke after soaking the threads on the inside of the trunk with PB Blaster for 2 days. Previous owner ignored broken strut, which chewed through the mount and even cut a notch into the 3/8" thick steel in the tower. This will not be corrected as the new mount holds the rod in place. I will have to paint the stripped paint on the wheel well. The trailing arms are getting replaced, severely rusty. Should I replace the lateral link bushings? Does it effect ride quality much? Tons of new parts on order, will update when done.
  16. W-body family, Hey would anyone have a diagram showing what to pull out in order to remove the cowl cover? I had my windshield replaced, and found that the hose that connects to a T fitting is disconnected. I have wash fluid being wasted due to the disconnected hose. Thanks guys! Rob
  17. Can you replace the bulbs on the digital climate control? I have many out on mine..if so what bulb type? I did the cluster with white leds..changed blue..not sure im crazy about it. Will probably order green led so.they all match in the long run...even though it looks neat since I only had like 2 bulbs working on the Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  18. pitzel

    $7 USB ALDL cable

    Okay everyone, as a public service, I thought I'd do a bit of a write-up on how hooked up to my 1992 LH0-engined car with a <$8 USB cable and no messing around with MAX232's, transistors, resistors, or even soldering. Step #1: Buy that. $7.66 with free shipping. (must be this one, with the FTDI chip to support 8192 baud, and must use 5V TTL levels. Many Arduino-targeted cables use 3.3V, which may not be adequate for the TX pin to the 5V logic used in the ECU!) Step #2. Wire the TXD and RXD pins together, Green and Yellow. Step #3. Wire the combined TXD and RXD pins to the "M" connector on the ALDL block Step #4: Wire the Black connector (GND) to the "A" connector on the ALDL block. Step #5: Connect USB to laptop, let Windows install the FTDI drivers. Step #6: Download freescan from: , and install. Step #7: Select the appropriate COM port (showed up as COM4 for my laptop), and select "GM 410B" as the ECU in the software. Also, make sure you select "Interact" mode. Step #8: Set e-brake (to inhibit DRL's draining your battery and just as basic protection since you'll probably wanna sit in the passenger seat to mess with a laptop), turn key to run position. Look at the LEDs on the USB connector, to make sure there's some data flow. If not, then you've done something wrong earlier. Alternatively, use a terminal emulator such as PuTTY, set into serial mode, with the appropriate (virtual) com port (mine was COM4), and the baud rate set to 8192. You should get at least a partial data flow when the key is in the RUN position. Step #9: Press "Force Data" button in Freescan screen if data does not transmit automatically. Step #10: Start engine to get some more meaningful data, but you should be getting data flow just from being in "RUN" and trying the "Force Data" function. Disclaimer: This worked on my 1992 LH0-engined car. It may not work on other cars. But this proves that an ALDL-interface cable can be built for $7.66 including shipping. Extra credit: For an additional $5, order: . Cut off the other side of it, and connect to your $7.66 USB to ALDL adapter. Make everything neat with heat-shrink tubing.
  19. I had the need to work against the firewall today and removed the engine strut mounts (Dog Bones) on the 90 Lumina. The struts fell apart, so I picked up a new set. (the rubber fell out of the struts) Upon re-assembly, I noticed that the mounts are out of alignment. Picture bolting the strut to the frame, then bringing the engine side of the strut up to the engine, but the engine mount does not align with the strut. It's as if the engine needs to be moved to the right (driver-side) by about 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch in order for the strut to drop into the mount. I have a feeling the new struts will suffer if installed with the alignment issue. Anyone know of a fix for this? Having not had to remove the engine struts since I had the transmission rebuilt, I wonder if the engine had been moved, thus throwing the struts out of alignment. Thanks for any help or suggestions!
  20. After today im almost done collecting parts for a topswap ill hav to source a short block i hav the tranny lined up getting the harness wednesday i hav the pcm on order i can almost hear the s/c whine now....mebbe i should get some tires
  21. I have a 1994 Cutlass Supreme convertible. The car is a 1 owner, Florida car. The outer door handles have become completely inoperable on both sides. I believe the problem is an electrical one and not a mechanical adjustment of the handles and door locks. For a while the problem was limited to the passenger door only, and because of that the outer handle had been broken off and replaced. In the past month the problem has migrated to the driver's side door now, and has become ridiculous to have to leave a window down in order to get into the car. Throughout all of this the inner door handles work perfectly to open the doors in all configurations. I have read all of the posts regarding unplugging the Chime Box from the door lock circuit, but my problem does not seem to be related to the automatic locking and unclocking of the doors depending upon whether you're driving, in gear or starting or turning off the car. There seems to be a secondary electrical circuit that controls whether or not the outer handles will open the doors. If it is very quiet, you can hear a distinct "click" if you try an outer handle, and the latching mechanism will simply not function using the outer door handles. The inner door handles however will easily unlatch either door in any configuration of key on, key off, car running, car stopped, in gear, not in gear, etc.? I have a factory manual and have attempted to trouble shoot the elctrical circuits. Chasing electrical gremlins however is not my strong suit (I'm a "mechanical" guy)! Any help at trouble shooting, diagnosing or repairing this problem would be greatly appreciated. I'd love to identify the relay, switch, module, circuit or part that will fix this issue (the wife by the way, is running out of patience)! Thanks in advance for your interest in help. Marc in sunny Florida - constantly locked out!
  22. Hey all. A couple weeks ago, I pulled out of my drivewayand heard a hard thud, then heard or felt nothing abnormal until later that night when I heard this metal-bouncing sound. Then part of my rear sway bar snapped off and hit the road. So what are my best options? It's a 98 Monte LS; I work at a parts store and we cannot order a rear sway bar, and GM can't get me one.
  23. Hey guys been a while. Im having a weird issue on my 91 Lumina Z34. Recently i had issues with bad misfires and sluggish performance and with the car misfiring on all cylinders (sounds like a 2 cycle revved high) after i depress the pedal about 25 to 35%. It starts decently and runs rough and after a bit when it warms up, it idles with a very slight misfire every once in a while otherwise all 6 are firing and it sounds ok. Throwing 2 codes, O2 sesor and Lean exhaust. Checked all vacuum lines and gaskets and everything seems to be in order. Did plugs, wires, valve cover gaskets (slight oil leak) and didn't do the O2 sensor(hard to reach). So now ir runs far better and i can drive it at low throttle with no misfires but after going about 40% down with the pedal it starts to misfire rapidly again and i lose power. When i let the pedal go and give it a little gas it will misfire once and then fire on all 6 just fine. Me and my friend are completely stumped so i bought a fuel filter and have yet to install it. Pulled my front plug wires when it was idling one at a time and it changed the idle with each one i pulled so i think the coils are ok
  24. if anyone can i need pix of how the Ebrake cables are attatched at all points....this is for the member Jamie Leigh im gonna be doing the cables and have to order ALL NEW STUFF the shop she took it to the first time was supposed to fix it instead ordered the wrong cables so we took the car back it wasnt until monday that when we put it on a lift at my job the front cable drivers side cable and brackets are all gone.... this is literaly the only problem with the car so if someone can just post the pix of the little brackets and how everything is hooked up that would be awesome
  25. A little pissed off, thought the Regal came back with excess neg camber and now I realized today one of my rear tires is shot. So I'm going to order the rear adjustment tool so they can do it right. I understand it's for toe but it'll show them that there's adjustment to be had. The big question is which brand is better? The Northstar brand: Or the Goodson: The Northstar is three bucks more after shipping than the Northstar.
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