UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'post'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Site Related
    • W-body.com Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Biography


Location


Interests


Occupation

Found 1,329 results

  1. So, I hear about these things all the time, I need them, but I've never seen a pic, and they're just about mythical. I finally picked some up today, and decided to post pictures of the final product. I need to know how exactly to install these things. Do you put the thing so it's straddling the top of the knuckle, or some other way?? The cat is my parents', his name is Chester.
  2. I've decided that i'm going to do a junkyard thread and everytime I see something someone might be interested, i'm going to post on this. Also, feel free to put your stuff on this. I guess I figured i dont need a new thread everytime i go and find something. Thoughts? Any ways. I found Cutty International with HUD and burgandy interior. So, for those looking for HUD to match their interior, here it is. Brgandy HUD, and Switch and all brackets $40-45 plus shipping right/ passenger tail light $35 plus shipping
  3. *Big Update 12-20-2016* I finally put the lists to spreadsheet and html format. I don't have them hosted for direct viewing currently, but they can be downloaded here: http://www.filedropper.com/tgpvindatabaseThat link expires in 30 days. The file size is small, something like 165kb. It unpacks to about 6.9mb and includes the 89 Coupe, 90 Coupe, and 90 TSTE list in both spreadsheet and html formats. All of the lists are technically incomplete, but they're far more complete than you will likely ever see. There are supposed to be 751 1989 coupes, 2,749 1990 coupes, and 1,000 Turbo STE sedans. Those numbers are stated by the Pontiac Historical Society and Compnine also listed the exact same numbers. The totals I ended up at are 734 for the 1989 coupes, 2,740 for the 1990 coupes, and only 200 some odd Turbo STE sedans. The sedan list is so far off because I never got around to running through the list for them. I did add about 150+ cars to it during the course of doing the 1990 coupe list so at least we have that...The VIN program I used quit working before I got around to making my final pass through of the 1990 coupe list. I made it from the 200,000-277,000 range and only added one car I had missed in my previous methods. I also crossed off one car in that range that I had accidentally listed that was not real. Considering I only came up with one car in that large range, I kinda doubt I would have ever produced the other supposed 9 cars made from 277,000 to about 306,XXX. I need to thank a few people below for their help with this. Skitchin - Huge thanks to him for automating the process and literally knocking months or even years off of this project. turbo-v-sick - Thanks for doing all the leg work on the 1989 coupe list! He has also dug up tons of history and photos on these cars that we might not have ever found without him. ManicMechanic - Thanks for helping with the VIN project and constantly posting pictures and information on these cars making it easier for me to document them. I wouldn't have come across a fraction of the ones you do because I wasn't aware of half of those auction, salvage, etc. sites until you brought them to my attention. I'm probably forgetting some people here, but thanks to anyone that helped in any way, big or small! I wanted to turn in the list in a much more complete format but unfortunately it didn't turn out that way. Too bad compnine did away with the several free vin checks per day when my list was still in its infancy. Those were handy in filling out the color and option info on these cars. Eventually I would like to contact them about getting a custom account and have several people help go through and document the vins. That will not be any time soon though. I'm tired of looking at those numbers for now. I will be lightly modifying the list over time. I have some extra little blurbs of information on some cars I will include in a text document alongside it later. I also want to go through all my old car photos and pull any TGP ones that I documented by vin to upload to a directory to accompany the list. Don't hold your breath on either of those things as it will be quite a while before I get around to them..
  4. After sifting through 20+ pages of search results, I thought we could all post any production numbers we have in one spot, to make future searching easier (especially since there aren't too many websites that have this information). I DON'T HAVE ALL THE NUMBERS! This is a collaborative thing; everyone just post the info that they have here for everyone else to see! So, here's what I've got: Total 1995 Grand Prix: 131,835 Total Grand Prix Coupes: 58,896 Total Coupes with B4S GTP Package: 9,256 Total Coupes in 41U Black: 8,230 And from this info, my *ESTIMATE* of black '95 GTPs: 1,288. To get numbers on your car: Grand Prix: cac@pontiac.com Regal: http://www.buick.com/contact/email/ Lumina/Monte: http://www.chevrolet.com/contactus/emailus/index.jsp Cutlass: http://www.oldsmobile.com/olds/contactus/cont_Email.html Make sure you have your VIN handy.
  5. MaD

    Mufflers.

    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  6. I am turning this over to Jake - 94CutlassVert. Okay, here's the deal. Crazy K and I are researching and building a private database of convertibles. This database will consist of VINs, exterior, interior and top colors, options, original wheels, ect. So what we need from our convertible owners is your VIN (you are welcome to leave off the last 3 or 6 digits if you are uncomfortable with giving us the entire VIN, no one will be using this info except for us to find out what options your car originally came with via a GM parts department. I, or we, will be more than happy to send you this printout if you like!) Your car's info will not be given to ANYONE else. It will simply go on a spreadsheet format that I have created and the printouts will be kept in my files. Many classifieds websites encourage sellers to add the VIN so people may run a BatFax! type report so there's something to think about as well. Even better will be a clear photo of the door jamb sticker (located on driver's door) and SPID label (located in trunk on the spare tire cover.) Also, convertibles you see in the junkyard, on dealer lots, for sale, ect...If you are able to, take down the VIN for us, we can obtain the RPOs and build date from there. Please send a private message (it will be deleted after obtaining the info) to 94CutlassVert with your VIN, build date (both of which are located inside the door jamb, check you VIN to make sure the car's door hasn't been replaced some time in it's life, send both VINs if so), colors & photos. I'd like to keep this post unclutterd, so just a PM will do. Thank you!!
  7. Keith Golembiewski

    32,000 mile 94 Regal Coupe

    Well this is my first post but i'm already on my 3rd 3800 series motor car. 89 Bonneville SE, 97 Lesabre Limited and now my incredible W-Body 94 Regal Coupe. I got the opportunity to buy a little old lady's car and I took it. A 1994 Buick Regal with only 32,000 miles. The car has lived a very easy life being the routine grocery getter. Spending most of it's life in a heated garage. I have a ton of service records on the car and all the original paperwork and documentation. Best of all it has the 3800 motor in it. Really fun car to drive and I can't wait to get a new pair of tires and 5 spoke rims on it.
  8. I successfully lobbied the original manufacturer of dome light switches to re-manufacture some switches for me. I ordered a couple of hundred and they just showed up today. $8 a pair plus shipping ($2.50). It's probably just my cars they broke on, right? I'll post a picture tomorrow night. 7/28/11 update - Acting on a tip from another W-bodier I picked up some LED bulbs that fit right into the original housing. These eliminate the heat buildup that causes the switches to go bad. I can provide a set of 4 for $12. 9-30-13 update - All interior LED light conversion bulbs now available. See page 13 for pic and pricing
  9. thatcutteeboy

    W-body decals

    Just ordered my W-Body.com decals from Tearstone today. I got the chromed ones. I asked them if they would hold up to the elements and the guy said he's had the chromed ones on for six years and they look like they did when he first put them on. We'll see. Will post pics later when I get them and it warms up outside so I could put them on.
  10. Hello Long time stalker first time post. My Son has bent the engine cradle. I am assuming the procedure is to pull everything to replace the cradle? Thank you in advance. Brent
  11. zog10

    LQ1 Exhaust Sound Clips

    If you have a lq1 with aftermarket exhaust and sound clips of it can you please post it? And tell what kind of exhaust setup it has. So that way I know what it sounds like so I could decide easier what exhaust I want on mine.
  12. I'm going to post here as well for easier searching. I was able to use the factory upper strut mount and bump stop by using some springs that have a 4 1/8" ID top and a 2 1/2" ID bottom. The springs are listed as "GM series" coil springs and are available from 250 to 600lb. The 250 and 300lb springs are 11" long. The 350lb and above springs are 10" long. The springs I used for my 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible were the springs rated at 300lbs /in. I ground down the factory upper spring isolator to make a tapered spacer (3/8" thick on one side and 1/8" thick on the other) to keep the spring parallel with the strut. Install the tapered spacer on the upper strut mount, then install the poly spring isolator and spring with thrust bearing, adjusting sleeve and nut. The guys at QA1 racing said to use never seize on the thrust bearing. I cut the bottom two rings off the bump stop. Parts List: (2) HAL-11HTBF300 springs $65.97 ea at summit racing (1) ENS-9-6101G Spring isolator $20.97 pr at summit racing. (1) HAL-7888-109 Thrust bearing kit $25.97 pr at summit racing. (2) COK-12452-H Coil over adjusting sleeve about $40/pr A1 Racing. (2) COK-12460 Coil over adjuster nut about $26/pr A1 Racing Total investment around $250 Wheels: 17X8 + 38 offset Tires: 255/45-17 Tire clearance at 1 3/4" drop. I've since went 2" drop and no tire rubbing on either the springs or the fenders yet. This is as low as I feel comfortable with so this is where I stop. 2" drop front. 2 1/2" drop rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Canada

    Actual Dyno CHARTS.

    I'm starting this topic in the hope that we can get a sticky put up with different dyno charts for different powertrain/modification combo's. The catalyst for this was Aaron's 218whp dyno run...............3 threads later (all of 4+ pages) and yet I STILL HAVEN'T SEEN THE DAMN CHART So. What I would like is for people to post W Body (or relevant...in other words swappable) charts, AND a list of EXACTLY what mods were done to the car at the time. These charts will be useful (if we get enough) to see what mod combos do what, and how much boost (for the TGP guys) will net how much power etc. Plus you can pick shiftpoints In any event: I WANT TO SEE THE DAMN CHART FOR AARON'S OLD Z34 !!!!!
  14. Those of you with aftermarket tips and stock mufflers, please post pictures. Looking at my TGP it looks like I only have about 8-8.5'' of length from the tip to the stock muffler - I'm not seeing too much that will fit in that same space, even if I modify the tips and cut off an inch or two. I generally prefer dual round outlet tips w/ rolled edges. If anyone happens to know of a short version of those, let me know. I want the tips to sit at the same place the factory ones do now rather than protrude farther(not a fan of that). On the off-chance I can't find something short enough to work as-is or with light modification, I might just keep the stock tips. I like the way they look, but kinda want something different at the same time.
  15. Must Sell Price reduced to 5500.00 OBO. Selling for what I have in it. Hi all. I am listing this to see if there is any interest. It's a 1991 Grand Prix GTP with 5 speed manual transmission. 66 Thousand miles. Blue with gray cloth interior. Sun roof, HUD, Power windows and Locks. I am in Pa. I will post pictures as soon as I can.
  16. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=ECHWS1051_0306359133 Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  17. John M

    Bad idle fixed 3.4

    I looked for the post I made asking for help on this issue ,but cannot find. The '95 Cutty would 'cam' at start up, (idle would bounce up to 3000+ and down low and would stall). Cold made this worse. Once engine warmed up problem went away. My mech found a vaccuum leak under the intake/plenum. I did not see the part, it was a special grommet under the top of the motor. It took days for the part to come in (rare?) My mech considers the 3.4 a rare engine, I don't. So not sure if the grommet fixed the problem or if taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. It is fixed thankfully. Almost $600 though... Hope this helps someone else.
  18. I have already introduced myself thru the "New Members" section. By the responses have received so far with a couple of ?'s I have asked I'm really stoked about getting the wife's Buick back into shape! A little backround; She bought her Gran Sport new in 1990 from the now defunct Saeger Buick in Columbus Ohio. She drove it for 15 years and 168k well maintained miles. It was her 1st new car and was (is) very proud of it. Even though it's a 3100 and not the 3800 it was fairly sporty. We have owned large dogs and have a house with maintenance issues. When it was time to look at a new ride she wanted a bigger vehicle to accommodate dogs and builing materials. She bought a GMC Envoy in 2005. I expected that she would trade/sell the Buick. WRONG!! She had a senti-MENTAL attachment and wanted to hang on to it, So........ In 2005 was parked out by the garage under the "protection" of a car-cover. Perhaps she thought it would be an occasional use car?? Well, it was never used again. Roll forward to present day. I am into vintage VW's and have restored a couple. We have an annual car show that features a different make/model each year. The 2015 feature is the 50th anniversary of Buick Gran Sport. She would like me to clean it up an show it as an original owner survivor. I'm not as familiar with the intricacies of "modern" cars and the associated electronics but now her Regal is 25 years old and qualifies for "Historic" vehicle status here in Ohio. If you have made it this far thank you. I will post up my progress and pictures here. Thanks for all the help! As she sat On Stands ready to dig in Interior is pretty clean More to come.....
  19. pwmin

    Battery Save Active

    My headlights were dimming with my sub (500W RMS) and the battery cables were hacked when I bought it because I think a battery had exploded previously. I changed my cables to 4 ga and added a wire from the alternator to the fuse panel. It charges well (usually around 15.1V), but it was still dimming. I changed the wires out to 1/0 gauge and added one from the alternator to the battery. The chassis ground, I ran a wire directly from the top post (I use the side posts for the other cables except the amp cable). The lights don't dim as much and it charges up to 15.3V (15.5V is the upper limit for this car from what I read), but I am now getting the Battery Save Active display on the DIC. From what I read, it's supposed to do that if the voltage is low, but that's certainly not the case. It does jump around a lot on the DIC, but reads steady 14.7V at the battery. Anyone know why this would be happening? Nothing seems to suffer.
  20. Does anyone near me have a scan tool capable of getting 95 Buick ECM codes? I have been struggling with a check engine light for a while now, and now that spring is upon us, I would like it fixed for summer driving. The car is a 95 Buick Regal with a 3800. A few hundred miles ago, I started getting a SES light that comes and goes. At the time, it seemed random. At one point, I replaced a cracked EGR connector and thought that fixed it, only to get it again a couple weeks later. I have no idea what difference that made, but it did make it stop for around 10 days - maybe just a coincidence. It has started happening more and more often since then. Now it lights up every time the engine reaches operating temperatures without fail. Here is how it goes: At start-up, the light is on if it was on the last time the car ran. The light turns off during warm-up. The light comes back up a few miles away, right around the time the engine warms up. I imagine it is around the time it tries to go into closed loop. I am wondering if I am running in open loop full time because of this. I have replaced the oxygen sensor not too long ago (with a new bosch one). I have also replaced the EGR valve and connector (not new, but made no difference). I just replaced the TPS this morning and its connector because a couple of times I have gotten a sudden high idle in the past. Had no effect on the SES light. I would prefer not just switching out sensors till it is fixed, although with the fun OBD 1.5, that is a real possibility for me. I did try to use tunerpro to get some data from the computer, but this is the first time I have ever used it and so far I get some data, but it is erratic enough to call random. For the connection, I used RobertISaar's suggestion from another form for the USB cable. Like I said, not really an expert in tunerpro and have never tuned an EFI system before so I am not looking to do that, I just thought it would be an inexpensive alternative to getting raped by the local shops just to pull codes. I used the A and M pins for the connection. Only one other pin is used and I do not believe it has anything to do with the ECM. Now that your eyes hurt from reading my long post, does anyone around here have a tool capable of pulling codes from these cars? Comments and suggestions are also welcome. Thank you, Miller
  21. jeremy

    Wtb: roof rails

    If you have some for sale please post up some pics, a price and if they are off of a 2dr or a 4dr. Thanks.
  22. Got an email saying someone failed to enter my password correctly 5 times, and was blocked for 15 minutes, and gave me the IP. Would it help mods if I post the IP here? Otherwise, I guess I should change my password regardless...
  23. Sorry about the other post, tapatalk app didn't use the screen name I had typed in, instead it just used my old email screen name. But anyway, I'm from Fairborn Ohio, and a few weeks ago I bought a 1998 Monte Carlo ls with a little over 200k miles on it from a friend for $460 as a second car. Other car being a 1991 Ford Festiva with a 1.6l swap, and a 5 speed. The Monte Carlo does have some rust issues I plan to get fixed. (Rust doesn't scare me!) Like the rear strut towers are rusted through, but my friend already offered up someone to weld them up. I got quite a few plans for this Monte, and I have a brother that knows the 3100 l82 inside and out, he's even done the 3.4 top end swap to his Malibu. First things first though, the rust needs fixed before I dump any amount of money into it. Pics coming shortly.
  24. Here's the post ranks, and the post count numbers that go with them. 0 to 24 Posts 25 to 99 Posts 100 to 199 Posts 200 to 299 Posts 300 to 499 Posts 500 to 749 Posts 750 to 999 Posts 1,000 to 1,499 Posts 1,500 to 1,999 Posts 2,000 to 2,999 Posts 3,000 to 4,999 Posts 5,000 to 9,999 Posts 10,000 + Posts
  25. kingkarmann

    1990 Buick Regal GS

    Hello All and Happy New Year! My wife purchased a 1990 Regal Gran Sport Coupe new and drove it until 2005. It was parked with about 160K well maintained miles. She bought a new vehicle and decided against trading in or selling the Regal as it was her 1st new car. It has sat outdoors under a car cover until just a couple of months ago. We made space for it in the garage. I have put it on stands. She wants me to get in back into shape so she can have it as a "play" car. It's the 3.1L V-6 and I have tore it down to the intake manifold so I can replace the gaskets. I plan to pretty much refurbish everything to new or as close to new as possible. I will post up some pics on the progress.
×