95LQ1VERT Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 My haynes manual doesn't say anything about them so I thought i'd ask here. BTW there is this clip type deal that holds in a coolant pipe that runs from LIM to a pipe right under the strut tower brace. The "gasket" on there is shredded, what is it called? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Look up Dorman Part # 800401, it's a whole new connector with everything you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I seriously freaking love this site. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I know this is off topic, but Id love to see a 5spd vert. that would definately be sweet , but I want to get this thing back on the road ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I seriously freaking love this site. Thank you No problem, I just did this exact job about 15 months ago so I'm happy to share any info I have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 (edited) Another part question, is there any LIM bolts available I stripped the head on one and ground the head off so I could remove the manifold. If not ill find one at a hardware store. Edited January 17, 2013 by 95LQ1VERT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 oh, mid project SNAFU. I know all about that. Any ways you can make it to a salvage yard? I know the head bolts require replacement when removed but i dont think the LIM bolts do. I`d try a dedicated auto parts store before a hardware as the threading and length might be engine/GM specific. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 When do you need it? I've got a bunch of spares, could ship a couple tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 $8.99 at Autozone...I just bought one Saturday. Look up Dorman Part # 800401, it's a whole new connector with everything you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 Definitely torque to yield. My FSM calls for tightening them to 44 ft-lbs, then turn an additional 90 degrees.. I always break the tightening down into stages...say all bolts finger-tight, then, 10 ft-lbs on the first circuit, then 20, then the final torque...then turn them 90 degrees, following the recommended tightening sequence at each step. Quick question... Are the head bolts Torque To Yield or can they be reused? Short on monies but, I dont want to do this again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19Cutlass94 Posted January 17, 2013 Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 I know the LIM bolts for the 3x00 are avaliable aftermarket, but sure about the DOHC though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2013 When do you need it? I've got a bunch of spares, could ship a couple tomorrow. I dont need it right away, I have to wait for my next paycheck to progress on anything. I need to mill the heads because when I was cleaning them, where the blown part of the gasket was, there was some pitting on it. I also need to get new timing belt components because those are SHOT big time, head bolts, and then a couple other little things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 Is dayco a good brand for the timing belt tensioner and idlers? Part # 84068 @ rockauto for $73.72 w/ ship and discount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 19, 2013 Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I used that kit on my Cutlass...about 30,000 miles since, and the belt still looks brand-new...so I'd say yes. Is dayco a good brand for the timing belt tensioner and idlers? Part # 84068 @ rockauto for $73.72 w/ ship and discount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I used that kit on my Cutlass...about 30,000 miles since, and the belt still looks brand-new...so I'd say yes. Sounds good, I didnt want to buy a cheap item and have it cheap out in a few thousand miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2013 I need some insight on milling the heads on my lq1. It has some "pitting" where a blocked off coolant passage went to and that happened to be the spot where the gasket popped. I highly doubt it will seal good if i dont machine them. So do I get them both milled to the same specs and how much can be safely taken off so I dont risk PTV clearence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Depends on the severity of the corrosion and pitting...can you send a pic? My experience has been to clean the surface as best as I could... And, the part that many may disagree with, is since I generally don't have the option to machine the block's deck surface, I always apply Permatex High-Tack, to ensure a good seal between the head gasket and the deck...not the spray one, but the liquid one with an applicator, sort of like PVC glue. Nasty, stinky stuff, but I've never had to pull one back apart in over 30 years of having done so. I need some insight on milling the heads on my lq1. It has some "pitting" where a blocked off coolant passage went to and that happened to be the spot where the gasket popped. I highly doubt it will seal good if i dont machine them. So do I get them both milled to the same specs and how much can be safely taken off so I dont risk PTV clearence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Depends on the severity of the corrosion and pitting...can you send a pic? My experience has been to clean the surface as best as I could... And, the part that many may disagree with, is since I generally don't have the option to machine the block's deck surface, I always apply Permatex High-Tack, to ensure a good seal between the head gasket and the deck...not the spray one, but the liquid one with an applicator, sort of like PVC glue. Nasty, stinky stuff, but I've never had to pull one back apart in over 30 years of having done so. I will try to post one up, give me a few minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 (edited) Its the dark spot next to the locating dowel thingy. Thats the #1 cylinder side. Edited January 20, 2013 by 95LQ1VERT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Well, that should be cleaned up when the heads are at the machine shop...how does the corresponding deck surface look on the block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 just have the shop take off as little as possible to get it cleaned up.... if a combined .010" gets taken off, your compression will be up from ~9.29:1 to ~9.52:1. i'm not sure how much the LIM will tolerate without being modified, but beyond that and i'd start looking for either new heads or a new short block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GOT2B GM Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 I just take the heads to the machine shop and tell them to "clean it up" They just skim cut it until it looks good. Never had an issue. I can mail you a couple LIM bolts if need be, for the cost of shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) Well, that should be cleaned up when the heads are at the machine shop...how does the corresponding deck surface look on the block? The block itself is in nice shape, not pitted at all and clean all gasket material off. just have the shop take off as little as possible to get it cleaned up.... if a combined .010" gets taken off, your compression will be up from ~9.29:1 to ~9.52:1. i'm not sure how much the LIM will tolerate without being modified, but beyond that and i'd start looking for either new heads or a new short block. I just want to clean it up enough so it will seal from around the edges, I just take the heads to the machine shop and tell them to "clean it up" They just skim cut it until it looks good. Never had an issue. I can mail you a couple LIM bolts if need be, for the cost of shipping. It should be a cake walk after I take them there. Ill send you a PM. Edited January 21, 2013 by 95LQ1VERT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95LQ1VERT Posted January 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 I really HATE stopping in the middle of a project, I've lost about 60% of my motivation to work on my car and its all because of $$. Anyways with what little money I have, I will try to round up everything I need to finish this pig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Galaxie500XL Posted January 24, 2013 Report Share Posted January 24, 2013 Been there...when the timing belt died in my Cutlass, it was about 10 weeks before I got it all back together, due to money, and a lack of a couple of tools/parts. I wasn't nearly as energetic toward the end, as I was in the beginning. I really HATE stopping in the middle of a project, I've lost about 60% of my motivation to work on my car and its all because of $$. Anyways with what little money I have, I will try to round up everything I need to finish this pig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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