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Found 11,140 results

  1. notsoslimshady76

    W bodies with the Wrong stock wheels

    I've collected a few pictures over the years. Wondering if anyone else has any pictures? 1.5gen Lumina with CS wheels My car with Honda Civic wheels GP with CS sawblades
  2. *Big Update 12-20-2016* I finally put the lists to spreadsheet and html format. I don't have them hosted for direct viewing currently, but they can be downloaded here: http://www.filedropper.com/tgpvindatabaseThat link expires in 30 days. The file size is small, something like 165kb. It unpacks to about 6.9mb and includes the 89 Coupe, 90 Coupe, and 90 TSTE list in both spreadsheet and html formats. All of the lists are technically incomplete, but they're far more complete than you will likely ever see. There are supposed to be 751 1989 coupes, 2,749 1990 coupes, and 1,000 Turbo STE sedans. Those numbers are stated by the Pontiac Historical Society and Compnine also listed the exact same numbers. The totals I ended up at are 734 for the 1989 coupes, 2,740 for the 1990 coupes, and only 200 some odd Turbo STE sedans. The sedan list is so far off because I never got around to running through the list for them. I did add about 150+ cars to it during the course of doing the 1990 coupe list so at least we have that...The VIN program I used quit working before I got around to making my final pass through of the 1990 coupe list. I made it from the 200,000-277,000 range and only added one car I had missed in my previous methods. I also crossed off one car in that range that I had accidentally listed that was not real. Considering I only came up with one car in that large range, I kinda doubt I would have ever produced the other supposed 9 cars made from 277,000 to about 306,XXX. I need to thank a few people below for their help with this. Skitchin - Huge thanks to him for automating the process and literally knocking months or even years off of this project. turbo-v-sick - Thanks for doing all the leg work on the 1989 coupe list! He has also dug up tons of history and photos on these cars that we might not have ever found without him. ManicMechanic - Thanks for helping with the VIN project and constantly posting pictures and information on these cars making it easier for me to document them. I wouldn't have come across a fraction of the ones you do because I wasn't aware of half of those auction, salvage, etc. sites until you brought them to my attention. I'm probably forgetting some people here, but thanks to anyone that helped in any way, big or small! I wanted to turn in the list in a much more complete format but unfortunately it didn't turn out that way. Too bad compnine did away with the several free vin checks per day when my list was still in its infancy. Those were handy in filling out the color and option info on these cars. Eventually I would like to contact them about getting a custom account and have several people help go through and document the vins. That will not be any time soon though. I'm tired of looking at those numbers for now. I will be lightly modifying the list over time. I have some extra little blurbs of information on some cars I will include in a text document alongside it later. I also want to go through all my old car photos and pull any TGP ones that I documented by vin to upload to a directory to accompany the list. Don't hold your breath on either of those things as it will be quite a while before I get around to them..
  3. After sifting through 20+ pages of search results, I thought we could all post any production numbers we have in one spot, to make future searching easier (especially since there aren't too many websites that have this information). I DON'T HAVE ALL THE NUMBERS! This is a collaborative thing; everyone just post the info that they have here for everyone else to see! So, here's what I've got: Total 1995 Grand Prix: 131,835 Total Grand Prix Coupes: 58,896 Total Coupes with B4S GTP Package: 9,256 Total Coupes in 41U Black: 8,230 And from this info, my *ESTIMATE* of black '95 GTPs: 1,288. To get numbers on your car: Grand Prix: cac@pontiac.com Regal: http://www.buick.com/contact/email/ Lumina/Monte: http://www.chevrolet.com/contactus/emailus/index.jsp Cutlass: http://www.oldsmobile.com/olds/contactus/cont_Email.html Make sure you have your VIN handy.
  4. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  5. MaD

    Mufflers.

    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  6. I am turning this over to Jake - 94CutlassVert. Okay, here's the deal. Crazy K and I are researching and building a private database of convertibles. This database will consist of VINs, exterior, interior and top colors, options, original wheels, ect. So what we need from our convertible owners is your VIN (you are welcome to leave off the last 3 or 6 digits if you are uncomfortable with giving us the entire VIN, no one will be using this info except for us to find out what options your car originally came with via a GM parts department. I, or we, will be more than happy to send you this printout if you like!) Your car's info will not be given to ANYONE else. It will simply go on a spreadsheet format that I have created and the printouts will be kept in my files. Many classifieds websites encourage sellers to add the VIN so people may run a BatFax! type report so there's something to think about as well. Even better will be a clear photo of the door jamb sticker (located on driver's door) and SPID label (located in trunk on the spare tire cover.) Also, convertibles you see in the junkyard, on dealer lots, for sale, ect...If you are able to, take down the VIN for us, we can obtain the RPOs and build date from there. Please send a private message (it will be deleted after obtaining the info) to 94CutlassVert with your VIN, build date (both of which are located inside the door jamb, check you VIN to make sure the car's door hasn't been replaced some time in it's life, send both VINs if so), colors & photos. I'd like to keep this post unclutterd, so just a PM will do. Thank you!!
  7. Keith Golembiewski

    32,000 mile 94 Regal Coupe

    Well this is my first post but i'm already on my 3rd 3800 series motor car. 89 Bonneville SE, 97 Lesabre Limited and now my incredible W-Body 94 Regal Coupe. I got the opportunity to buy a little old lady's car and I took it. A 1994 Buick Regal with only 32,000 miles. The car has lived a very easy life being the routine grocery getter. Spending most of it's life in a heated garage. I have a ton of service records on the car and all the original paperwork and documentation. Best of all it has the 3800 motor in it. Really fun car to drive and I can't wait to get a new pair of tires and 5 spoke rims on it.
  8. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  9. Turbo v-sick

    TGP Pace car(s)

    It sure would be nice to know where these are hiding...
  10. 94 olds vert

    Digi UB3 adapter

    So I'm in the middle of making a UB3 adapter for a digi cluster. And I want to make sure Im doing this right. For example I'd take the C2 on the digi cluster end and connect it to the D4 on the connector that is in the car. I have a digi UB3 connector and the end of a 94 analog where it plugs into the cluster. I solder all the wires from the factory 94 female connector to the male end. Then I have to take the digi wires and connect them to the other side. Any objections to the way I'm doing it? I think it will be good enough. I already have wires spliced into my cluster wires for the DIS. EDIT: Reference. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/48646-Digital-UB3-install-in-94-CS-with-analog-UB3 That is what I'm going by.
  11. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  12. My dad made the comment that i should grab a second car so im not feeling rushed when wrenching on the monte. I agreed. Been poking around and actually found two nice cars i actually like. 2001 regal gs Pros-clean as hell, most parts interchange with my monte, ive actually wanted a regal for a while, will make a good candidate for a regal 2-door conversion idea i had(hehehe) Cons-they have a price a lil high on it, previous body repair. 2008 impala ss Pros-5.3 , good color scheme(red/black), eeven cleaner than hell, decent price, would b an eventual ls4 donor for monte after car is beat up and the trans dies Cons-little interchange with monte, before mentioned trans weakness, more expensive parts Kinda leaning towards regal even tho the impala is a better deal
  13. I have done a ton of measurements and an aluminum cradle from a late model impala or others will bolt into my 96 gp. I am thinking of modding one for my control arms ect. I am not the best welder but a friend of my could weld a turd to diamond if need be. He is amazing, Anybody ever tried this? I think im gonna. I want to save weight and keep all the good stuff plus it looks pretty sweet. Is there anything i am over looking? Any input would be nice. Also is there any after market control arms available or do i need to make my own? It is a topswapped l36 in the car if wondering.
  14. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  15. rich_e777

    5/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch radiator swap

    Hows it going guys, had to get a new radiator due to a leak, wont use any kind of stop-leak unless the manufacturer agrees to buy me a new car. So i of course order the bigger radiator from AZ, got it and installed it all the while distracted enough to forget to space the damn cooling fans and the drivers side fan ate a hole into the radiator. No problem, under warranty got another coming. What im wondering is if anyone has had this situation before and what was used to space the fans out slightly enough to clear the radiator and on any of the w-body 3100`s out there are any known to have fan shrouds? Figured some washers would be good enough, dont know. Kind of drunk and just wanting to talk cars i guess.
  16. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  17. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  18. Out of curiosity, is anyone here running a battery in the trunk? I'm debating whether or not this is a worthwhile mod for me since I am planning on rewiring my car for amplifiers, and I also want to do a CAI, but I'm not wholly convinced. If anyone has pics, I'd like to see that as well.
  19. Heartbeat1991

    Dan's 1990 TGP Take 2

    For anyone not aware, I had bought a TGP in October, 2013 which had a few minor needs. I was chipping away at small projects. I bought a parts car a couple months ago. On July 21, 2014, my TGP burned out due to a PMIII accumulator failure. So now the parts car has become the fixer-upper. So I will update this tread as I finish little projects. It's not in horrible condition. I may sell it soon, as I found one with lower mileage that I might pick up. Here are some pics from when I brought it home : The closer one is the one that burned, the one towards the left is the one I have still.
  20. Pictures speak for themselves: The task really wasn't that hard, just took my time. I strongly believe there is no way you can get the center axle nut off without an impact. It wouldnt budge with a 24 inch breaker but the impact twisted it off in about 45 seconds. I then used a two jaw puller from harbor freight ($13 for three) to push the axle out of the wheel bearing. Of course I sprayed everything down with PB blaster the night before to help with the rust. Since the spring is shaped like a cone I used two sets of spring compressors because I was paranoid. Here is how much I had to compress the spring to get the upper mount back on. If you have an impact, you don't need the special tool, just beat up on it with your 15/16 socket. I reused the isolator as it looked just fine to me. Getting the assembly out I was able to do just fine by myself, but since I'm not a big guy I needed a helper to get it back into the wheel well. Once I got the upper mount in it was a one person job again. If you're unsure about your bearing plate, I found a good test to be when the car is on the ground, grab the bearing plate and try to turn it side to side. It should move about 3/4 of an inch side to side. My drivers side was frozen solid, passenger moved freely like the new one does. Oh one final thing, before I started I made numerious marks with a sharpie on the spring, isolators, mounts and strut assembly so I could line everything up the first time. I'm sure I would have been pretty pissed if I had to do something over. What it looks like with the assembly out
  21. I am curious to know if I have to get another pump, do I need to get a 1994 to match the year of the car I have? Is there a generic pump, universal pump I could get? And where would you recommend I buy one at. Thanks!
  22. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  23. hello everyone, I have been doing a good share of research into generation 2 suspension into a gen 1. From everything I have found it is not a bolt up modification. looking at the suspensions of both car I know the gen two control arm has the ball joint in it and is slightly higher in placement. My thought is to modify the gen 1 control arm to house the ball joint from the newer gen. I know the strut, spring and knuckle would have to be transferred over. My question is there anything you guys can see in this idea that would stop it dead in its track or anything I should look into?
  24. Project completed and now ready to ship. Cutlass Convertible Top Frame Pin Cup Kit - 2 each pin cups 2 each internal tooth washers 8 each Black Vinyl Pin Sheath and BONUS DVD When I bought the car, I found shortly afterward on Ebay a couple of GM Dealer vhs tapes. 1. Cutlass Convertible Top Diagnosis and Service 2. 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Product Training. Well, it occurred to me that the "Top Service" tape would be a valuable item for all vert owners and since I have a way of dubbing from vhs to dvd, I thought I would include a copy with the kit. The Cutlass product training is a salesmans guide to the 1994 Cutlass lineup hosted by John Goss of Motorweek. Thank you to DOHCRagTopGuy, 95TripleWhiteVert and 93luminaz34 for your payments. Your kits have been mailed. Thanks again to everyone who has participated and pledged participation allowing this to happen. To confirm: pricing is as follows: Paypal - $ 47.00 - to my account schmude@bellsouth.net Payments by check - $ 45.50 to - Dennis Schmude 2896 Oxford Way Duluth, GA 30096 Shipments to Canada - ADD $ 1.25 .
  25. Greazzer

    2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue

    I am new to the forum, and I may have posted this in the wrong section. I am also trying to learn how to move around on the forum. Here is my question posted in the new member section. Any help please. My wife loves this car, so I am trying to fix it before it goes to the Pull-a-Part. Thanks in advance. [h=2]PLEASE, Help for 2001 Intrigue[/h] I have a 2001 Olds Intrigue. Looks like a bunch of stuff just went wrong at once. It has 215K miles on it. Is there anyone out there that has dropped the sub-frame? Are there any references or info out there on how to do this. I need to replace the water pump, valve cover gaskets, serp belt, and cross-over gaskets. I think it will be easier to drop everthing and work on it while I can easily access everything. I have access to a car lift and full auto shop, although I am not a mechanic by trade, but I have been working on cars for years. Any one, please any information. Time is a killer for me, so I would rather do things faster even if it involves something as exotic as dropping drivetrain. Thanks in advance.
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