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Found 1,714 results

  1. This has been mentioned but never really discussed. A straight answer hasn't really been provided. I'm writing this for my Jaguar, but I think it has plenty of merit with our cars as well since many people install transmission coolers. There are 3 possible scenarios here. 1. Use the built-in transmission cooler in the radiator 2. Route the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, to the aux trans cooler, and back to the trans 3. Bypass the radiator and go straight to the aux trans cooler Obviously, we know that our transmissions heat up to the point where the stock radiator is not enough to cool them. Buck reported that under heavy driving, his 05 GTP's 4T65E-HD would hit 260 degrees F. We also know that heat kills transmissions, and that temperature is rather high. Therefore, it can be assumed that the stock radiator is insufficient in cooling the transmission. This is primarily because it cannot cool the transmission below what the temperature of the radiator is, which during a typical summer day will sit nicely around 190 degrees F. IIRC, our w-bodies won't switch on the primary fan until the temperature reaches 235 degrees F. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The transmission will only get hotter than that. If one routes the transmission cooler lines through the radiator and then to the aux trans cooler, the radiator does some slight bit of cooling, and the transmission cooler does the bulk of the cooling thereafter. In my experiences, with a large transmission cooler flush mounted to the condenser, the engine could be running at even 220 degrees F, and the transmission will stay steady at 190 degrees, so the cooler is obviously making a big difference. Obviously its less than ideal to flush mount the transmission cooler, and I'm working on that. My concern with this approach is that the transmission can potentially be cooler using only the aux transmission cooler, which brings me to my next point. How cold is too cold? I've read that someone called valvoline to ask them that question, and the response was flat out "30 degrees F." I'm not sure how much validity there is to that claim, since I've also heard from around here that you can run a transmission too cold. Well how cold is too cold? I don't want to hear guesses here, but rather constructive feedback. Would it be detrimental to bypass the radiator entirely and have the aux trans cooler take care of all of the cooling? Has anyone done this and reported back on their temperature readings in different conditions? Another thing to consider with this approach is that the car itself will run cooler as a result of not having the heat of the transmission lines going through it. In regard to the aux trans cooler, I'm referring heavy duty coolers in the $50-$60 range, built for RV's.
  2. FOR SALE: AWEB80 Rear strut tower bars for 1st gen w-bodies. COMPLETE BARS: $100 shipped w.out hardware, unpainted $108 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, unpainted $118 shipped w. 1/2" hardware, painted GLOSS BLACK BRACKETS ONLY: $45 shipped / pair, unpainted $52 shipped / pair, painted GLOSS BLACK Fits all 1st gen cars excluding Cutlass Convertibles due to the top needing room to fold down. All prices in USD. Payment is accepted via PayPal at mshantz83@hotmail.com Photo of the brackets, plasma cut, unpainted: To complete the install if you purchase just the brackets, you'll need a center bar (1x1 square tube, 37.5" long, with 1/2" holes drilled on 36" centers)
  3. I've collected a few pictures over the years. Wondering if anyone else has any pictures? 1.5gen Lumina with CS wheels My car with Honda Civic wheels GP with CS sawblades
  4. MaD

    Mufflers.

    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  5. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  6. Does anyone know the stock side panel speaker size on a 92 cutlass convertible. Thanks rich
  7. I've got a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with an L67. I have cooling fans from a 2000 GTP on it; however, I'm a bit baffled about the way they operate. Both fans run on the low-speed setting. On the high speed setting, only the fan on the passenger's side runs. Is this correct? I checked the voltage on the driver's side fan motor, and it drops to 0 when on the high speed setting. It seems like both fans should run on the high speed setting to me (although I do not know the way the system works). I have had cooling problems with this thing since I put it together last August. It stays cool as long as it's not idling still for >20-30 min. I just replaced the original 3.1 radiator with a radiator with 3 additional rows (when counting vertically). The core of my original radiator was 34 rows tall, while the newly installed one was 37. The radiator shop I purchased the radiator from claims that these 3 additional rows provide the same cooling efficiency with the stock 5/8 inch core width as a radiator with the stock number of vertical rows (34) with a 1 inch core width. This new radiator did help the problem, but I would still rather have both fans running on the high speed setting. That would ameliorate it completely I think. Have you guys with stock early 2000s GTPs observed the way the fans work? Thanks, Andy
  8. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  9. Those of you with aftermarket tips and stock mufflers, please post pictures. Looking at my TGP it looks like I only have about 8-8.5'' of length from the tip to the stock muffler - I'm not seeing too much that will fit in that same space, even if I modify the tips and cut off an inch or two. I generally prefer dual round outlet tips w/ rolled edges. If anyone happens to know of a short version of those, let me know. I want the tips to sit at the same place the factory ones do now rather than protrude farther(not a fan of that). On the off-chance I can't find something short enough to work as-is or with light modification, I might just keep the stock tips. I like the way they look, but kinda want something different at the same time.
  10. Hey all. I'm trying to figure out what aftermarket turbo I've got here. Only marking on it is a .86 AR identification on the turbine housing. It sure as hell makes more boost than the stock T25. The car's a rocket compared to my stock one while wheezing through a factory airbox. Anyone know what this is?
  11. Been looking for a new old stock coolant reservoir for a good while now, and I am unable to find one. I can find new tanks for older cars and newer ones, but none for mine. Been searching Ebay for weeks now with no luck. I would rather have a new one, but I will buy a used one just as long as there is a good view of the coolant level. The GM part number for the tank is 10239079. That part number fits Regal 91 through 93(3.1 only not sure), Cutlass Supreme 91 through 93, Pontiac Grand Prix 91 through 93, and Chevrolet Lumina 91 through 93. If you have a used one that is in good shape, or know where I could get a new one, then please let me know. Thanks
  12. I am not a fan of these and the GTP I just bought has them on, they look great and work fine they are currently on the car now and it is my daily. I am looking for $65 shipped for them, I know how much they sell for new and honestly I have had issues with them on LSx cars and they left a bad taste in my mouth. I am putting stock coil packs on. I will get pics tonight when I get home.
  13. These are the old summer rims off my car. They are 16x7 american Racing areo polished. I have no need for these anymore, and they are taking up space in my garage. Tires do not come with rims. No curb rash. No damage. These rims are discontinued. Asking $400 OBO. I'm located in East Texas. Heres what they looked like on the car I used the stock size, 215/60/16.
  14. So as im sure a lot of you have seen on FB i have this clunk in the front of my car. The noise seems to originate on the passenger side. I happens one single time on every initial acceleration from a stop. It also happens intermittently over large bumps like gutters and speed bumps, and on rear rare occasions full lock turning.. This clunk is loud I've had a cd skip while playing once or twice Now this started right after a lot of suspension work. I replaced control arms, ball joints, swaybars, endlinks, and lowered the car. I did reuse the old struts and mounts as they were less than 30k miles and 2 years old, i also installed shorter dogbones to make sure the downpipe doesn't hit the swaybar (clunking happened before shorter dogbones so thats been ruled out). Ive had a inspection done on all the replacement part and they all seem to be installed and tightened correctly Motor mounts were replaced 2 years ago but were replaced with stock hydraulic mounts, and both cv axles are spewing grease, but both of those usually have different symptoms than what I'm experiencing. Let me know what you think Thanks Jake
  15. Anyone have a left clear corner or a set they can part with? Busted mine in an accident. Even a stock lense would do and I can make a new clear marker light by combining parts. Thanks. Oh, yes...& headlight covers! My left got busted and my wife digs them. Thanks.
  16. My car decided enough was enough, so it popped a head gasket. 3.4l lq1, 138000 miles. Here is the dilema: 1- I can sell it, for basically scrap value because engine issues and its a convertible in winter time and be out of a car. 2- fix it, but risk a main bearing or something bizarre go out in the next 5000 miles. 3- go all in and do a full engine rebuild to stock specs. Which ever option it is, it's going to be expensive. It burnt oil on start up, leaked a little oil over night so seals and stuff alike are on their way out. I need some more experienced advice on this matter, any input is appreciated.
  17. Hey anyone have any ideas why both dash speakers would quit working rear speakers work good is there a fuse that might control this or a possible wire that fell off .....its all stock and has never been tampered with ???? t
  18. Grabbed a 2nd Dash Cluster and wanting to replace all the bulbs with Saudered on LEDs with Resistors between the + connection and the bulbs since they run about 3v vs 12-14v the car sends to the stock bulbs. Looking for a diagram of the board to find out which leads at positive and negative Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  19. So these came on my car when I bought it and as luck might have it, my Dad decided to buy some new ones for my mom's GP, so I am getting her stock set. The tail lights are on the car and are in great shape, I am asking $90 plus shipping and paypal fees, I will have mine off this week, or this weekend. I am firm on the price as they are in great shape. They are these ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/97-03-Pontiac-Grand-Prix-Carbon-Tail-Lights-Brake-Lamps-/281644927374?hash=item419358898e&vxp=mtr I will get pictures up by tonight.
  20. Did some work on the TGP today, found an old remote radar detector under the bumper, and found all kinds of wires under the dash connected to nothing, also found some other concerning things that I have questions on. Shall we began? Found this under the dash that the radar detector was hooked into. Looks like stock wiring, says PED on it. Black wire is cut, what is this to??? Is there supposed to be a chime module here??? Found this under the dash, doesnt look stock is wired into my radio and my power antenna, maybe this is why power antenna no longer works... I feel like there is something missing here, am I wrong? Or should this just all be exposed like this?? Thanks for looking guys!
  21. Hey guys, so I went to a junkyard today and noticed that this '95 GP has 215/60R16 tires in the front, and 225/60R16 tires in the back. Is this how they came stock? My own '94 GP was this way when I bought it. Is it okay to run this setup? I've never owned a first gen so this is new to me. Thanks!
  22. I pulled a few sets of speakers out of the Grand Prix I'm parting out. There is a pair of 6x9 Kickers, 4x6 Alpines, and 4x6 Pioneers. Picture with part numbers/ specs are below. I couldn't find much online about them; probably because they're older models. Would these be decent upgrades to the stock speakers in my Monte Carlo? I'd also let em go for cheap if someone wants to buy them as I can't imagine they're worth much. Also pulled this steering wheel control interface that I can't out anything about either. Anyone know anything about it or have any use for it?
  23. does anyone know the best way to update the sounds for a 1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme???...it has the stock AM/FM/Cassette and my nephew just got it (although he has no license as yet... few months off still) and would like him to be able to hear his iPod if it is feasible I made the mistake of asking him if he might be updating the radio to one that plays CDs and he replied he didn't really listen to CDs...I feel old I think he needs to do this on the cheapest but best route he can do and I have no idea how to do this as I have not updated my radio's from stock in a long time...(I remember 8-Tracks ) Any help you could provide would be appreciated...I've tried Google search as well as here but most seem to convert CD players to iPod use... Thanks, Bill
  24. First off, anyone know the stock offset for the 17" and 18" wheels? I'm thinking about getting some 18's for the GP for summer. I would have to beat the rear fender lip in like i did on the Regal so the xlaces don't hit on big bumps, but not sure I want to do that to this car. Other option would be to have them machined for less offset, but would like something bigger. Even 18's don't look that big in the pictures I've seen. Plus I wouldn't mind going back to stock tire height since there still is a little wheel gap even with the lowering springs and I was told that if you change tire size in the computer on these that it'll mess up cruise. I don't really use it much, but I think that's a good compromise. I hate not having my speedo working correctly. I haven't looked a whole lot yet, but have looked at tire rack and discount tire and found pictures of 077's on them, but haven't really found anything I like yet and not sure I like 077's on them. I like them on 5th & 6th gens for sure. Anyone have any suggestions? I think I want polished wheels instead of black wheels, but I definitely don't want chrome or silver.
  25. Hey guys. Today I had the demand to clean the carpet under the seats and additional cleaning and lube the seat mechanic. So on the passenger side I have seen a unknown cutted wire with full voltage on. Does anybody know for what this wire is ? It is stock ? Thank´s. Johannes from germany.
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