UA-65274002-1 Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


95LQ1VERT last won the day on January 2 2018

95LQ1VERT had the most liked content!

About 95LQ1VERT

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/25/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Henderson. KY


  • Biography
    Im 17 y/o. My first vehicle was a 1989 Ford Bronco, sold it to get my new 1995 Cutlass Supreme Vert. I am pretty capable of turning a wrench, and have good understanding of vehicle repairs. GO HUSKERS!!!
  • Location
    Ralston Nebraska
  • Interests
    Working on my friggin car and studying to become an Auto collision technician
  • Occupation
    Part time @ Sports Fan Shop

Recent Profile Visitors

322 profile views
  1. Yes unfortunately my cigarette lighter plug doesn't work. And Yes I capped the canister on one port and pulled vacuum with a hand pump gauge on the other and it wouldnt pull anything. The lines going to the solenoid from intake manifold port and the one from the solenoid back to the canister both held vacuum. I also put new lines on where the old dry rotted rubber ones were and no change. So I'm guessing the canister is like you said split. I want to say that's my issue with my idle. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  2. I wish my 12v plug worked in the car, so I could use the Scantool as I'm driving. Right now I'm using my other vehicle for power on the Scantool. But I dont have any gas smell from the car, but the Charcoal canister isn't holding vacuum. The lines are good cause I capped the ones over the tank to the canister and it held vacuum as well as the one from the purge solenoid to the tank. Both check out good. And the idle issue is occurs at low speed coasting and braking. I'm at a loss. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  3. Rechecked vacuum lines and checked to see if I had a bad brake booster, A/T vacuum modulator, or if I had any other major vacuum related issue with a vacuum pump/gauge. Its normal 18-19 lbs, minus a slight rapid needle, (I'm guessing wear on the valve train). Anyways I got to checking the Evap system and found that the line that runs to charcoal canister at rear of car would not hold vacuum. I unplugged it and capped that line and took the car for a drive, and I believe 100% that's where my idle fluctuation problem is. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  4. Injector pulse width Value is still zero with o2 sensor unplugged. However my IAC count is at 0 at warm idle... is this normal? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  5. I have the actron CP9110. It doesn't show to actual Air/Fuel ratio, how ever the o2 sensor (displays in mV) stabilizes high towards 800mV-900mV (.8V - .09V). But also my IAC count isn't that high at idle either and I've tried 2 IAC. it's like 8 -11 counts at idle. I've cleaned the passages too Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  6. Could anyone give me some insight on a "lazy" or failing oxygen sensor... I dont know what it is about me owning LQ1 cars but the idle never is right.... My issue is that when low speed coasting or braking the cars idle will dip up and down, like it has a vacuum leak. Which I have quadruple checked everything vacuum related l, no dice and I have no CEL. Plus my Scantool is reading that the o2 sensor at idle is stabilized in 820mv - 920mv. Constantly being rich. My understanding is that it should fluctuate to high and low for a correct AFR mix l, with a lean AFR indicating a vacuum leak.. So my question is, would a failing o2 sensor cause idle fluctuations when coasting or braking but be fine idling and accelerating? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  7. Mine happened to be the latch mechanism in the door. It would shut off if I slammed the door shut so I knew what door had the issue (passenger) , but I didnt want to keep doing that. The easiest way I tested it was to check the resistance of the door jamb switch. Which in my case it was fine. So I found where the door wiring harness connector is which is under the carpet near the rocker. I unplugged it and closed the door and sure enough the lights went out. So I took the door panel off and followed the connectors all the way back to the door latch and found my issue. I just unplugged it and it's been fine since. Locks and windows work along with seat belt lock mechanism Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  8. I will leave it unplugged if there is no ill effects. On a plus side, I took apart the convertible top switch last night and cleaned the contacts and put it back together. It works now! Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  9. I pulled the carpet back on the passenger floor and found the harness for the door. I unplugged it and shut the door normally and the dome lights went out. So I took the door panel off and followed the wires all the way to the Lock Mechanism. I unplugged the last connector and shut it and the courtesy lights shut off with each soft close. Is there a "Door ajar" switch built into the lock mechanism on these cars? And will it hurt if I leave that connection unplugged? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  10. I've been having a problem recently with my courtesy lights staying on after the passenger door is opened. The lights will only go out it the door is pretty much slammed shut. I've tested the continuity of the door jamb switch and it seems to be fine. My question I guess is, what else would cause the interior lights to stay on if the switch is good? P.S. The dimmer switch is turned down low. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  11. I put new mufflers and tips on recently. Mufflers are Total Flow 33225 from Amazon, pretty much Magnaflow knock offs. And the tips are 2.25" single inlet to dual 3" outlet. Sounds good, drones a bit at cruising speeds though. Link to my YouTube video below. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  12. Where are you located? How is the weather stripping on the top, and the rear qtr window sweeps? Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  13. I did mean 6,000 lol. I was just making up for the year of working on it and not being able to drive it. I plan on keeping the mileage to 5000 a year, especially if I register as a classic in 2019. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  14. Posting a little update. I've had the car driving since August roughly. So far I've put 6k miles on it since I completed my overhaul. The only thing that went wrong was the new radiator cap I purchased from rockauto. The seal was bad and would leak from it, however that has since been fixed. The car will be hitting its 100k milestone today!! Excited to see it! My plans for 2019 include the following. 1.) Get the mufflers and tips replaced. 2.) Address the fading trim around the convertible top, and the lip spoiler. 3.) Find a nice set of Bonneville GXP wheels for the ole girl. 4.) Clean up the underside of the car and rust proof with light suspension restoration. 5.) Replace the bad interior trim pieces. 6.) Overhaul the sound system. Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
  15. Did my transmission filter/fluid change last night. I was honestly surprised to see how clean the pan was. The fluid was still red, but had a darker color to it, and I wasn't sure if it had ever been changed in the last 10 years so I went ahead and changed it for preventative maintenance. There was shavings on the magnet, but not much sediment in the pan which I figured was good as I didn't have any issues with shifting or TCC lock. I also went ahead and put Valvoline Maxlife synthetic ATF in since it was a $4 difference. It took a little over 6 quarts of ATF for the pan drop and filter change. After it was done I immediately could tell the difference in shift quality on the first drive. Easy job, a little messy, but worth the time. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
  • Create New...