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Found 4,010 results

  1. This has been mentioned but never really discussed. A straight answer hasn't really been provided. I'm writing this for my Jaguar, but I think it has plenty of merit with our cars as well since many people install transmission coolers. There are 3 possible scenarios here. 1. Use the built-in transmission cooler in the radiator 2. Route the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, to the aux trans cooler, and back to the trans 3. Bypass the radiator and go straight to the aux trans cooler Obviously, we know that our transmissions heat up to the point where the stock radiator is not enough to cool them. Buck reported that under heavy driving, his 05 GTP's 4T65E-HD would hit 260 degrees F. We also know that heat kills transmissions, and that temperature is rather high. Therefore, it can be assumed that the stock radiator is insufficient in cooling the transmission. This is primarily because it cannot cool the transmission below what the temperature of the radiator is, which during a typical summer day will sit nicely around 190 degrees F. IIRC, our w-bodies won't switch on the primary fan until the temperature reaches 235 degrees F. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The transmission will only get hotter than that. If one routes the transmission cooler lines through the radiator and then to the aux trans cooler, the radiator does some slight bit of cooling, and the transmission cooler does the bulk of the cooling thereafter. In my experiences, with a large transmission cooler flush mounted to the condenser, the engine could be running at even 220 degrees F, and the transmission will stay steady at 190 degrees, so the cooler is obviously making a big difference. Obviously its less than ideal to flush mount the transmission cooler, and I'm working on that. My concern with this approach is that the transmission can potentially be cooler using only the aux transmission cooler, which brings me to my next point. How cold is too cold? I've read that someone called valvoline to ask them that question, and the response was flat out "30 degrees F." I'm not sure how much validity there is to that claim, since I've also heard from around here that you can run a transmission too cold. Well how cold is too cold? I don't want to hear guesses here, but rather constructive feedback. Would it be detrimental to bypass the radiator entirely and have the aux trans cooler take care of all of the cooling? Has anyone done this and reported back on their temperature readings in different conditions? Another thing to consider with this approach is that the car itself will run cooler as a result of not having the heat of the transmission lines going through it. In regard to the aux trans cooler, I'm referring heavy duty coolers in the $50-$60 range, built for RV's.
  2. So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on
  3. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  4. MaD


    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  5. Since putting the engine back in my '92 GTP my DIC is not getting any fuel data. Instant econ is 0 and it's constantly telling me to check fuel. It's done this before but usually it comes back after a day or two, but not this time. Suggestions? Thanks, DD
  6. I have a question, if you know the origin of the photos of the 1988 pacecar in a museum, the ones where the car is behind a velvet barricade, and with an engine on display. Basically, where was this photo taken?????? who took it? I visited (finally!) the Indianapolis Motor speedway...... and went to look at the photo archives for 1988. so far..... here's what I learned: 1988 pace car replica convertibles were used as parade cars. 1988 coupes were also used as parade cars... and at least some of these had sunroofs! calais coupes were also used as parade cars in 88, painted in the 88 pacecar scheme, and not the 86 paint. JIM DAVIS rode in the 49 pace car. In the prior pictures I have seen, I have isolated only two real pace cars. 1 with race lighting, with HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, WITH HOOD VENTS! with Quad 4 1 withOUT race lighting, withOUT HUD, with removal rollbar, with leather interior, without Hood vents, with Quad 4. almost ALL publicity shots are of the non-race ready vert. in the publicity packet that comes with the 50 pacecars (maybe all 250, or ?) is a picture showing two verts under construction whose caption implies that they were the only two cars produced to be real pacecars. so far the cars I have seen from the photo archives are consistent with these two, However, the archives guy said that typically they have 3 ready pacecars. the archive guy showed me a picture of a prior year HURST OLDS pacecars.... with EVERY Hurst Olds pacecar (including parade replicas) in a formation on the track. If I dig... and go through a stack of proofs that would sit 6 feet tall... I am hoping to locate a similar 88 image.
  7. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  8. Hello Long time stalker first time post. My Son has bent the engine cradle. I am assuming the procedure is to pull everything to replace the cradle? Thank you in advance. Brent
  9. Need to sell my original engine from my 92 Cutlass SL. It had about 142,000 when the engine was pulled. It was having a small leak in the head gasket, putting antifreeze into the oil. I got a good deal on a 97 crate engine. I was planning on dropping it into a fiero, but had major health problems. It is currently located in Sugar Land, just southwest of Houston, tx. Can deliver up to 50 miles or so.
  10. Okay the engine starts fine when cold. The engine starts fine when up to temp and restarting within 5 minutes of shutting it off. If the car sits for 15 minutes to 45 minutes, the engine will fire and then drop down in rpms almost stalling or it will just stall. If I give it a bit of gas when the engine fires and keep the rpms up for 30 seconds the engine will stay running. The car has had a complete tune up, new fuel pump, gas tank, fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. Fuel pressure is good and steady. The intake gaskets and plenium have been replaced. TPS , MAP, MAF, Crank and Cam sensors have all been replaced. All vacuum lines have been replaced. No codes are being thrown. Anyone have any ideas?
  11. Need a new coolant tank, or a way to clean the one I have. Can find new tanks for older model Cutlass and later model Cutlass, but I can not find a new one for a 92 Cutlass Supreme. All I can find is tank caps. It's so dirty and stained, that I can only see the coolant level on the full hot mark. Is it worth even trying to clean it, and what is the best way to do it? If it can be cleaned, I will for dang sure put work into it to save a dollar. Edit: Should have put this topic in General I think.
  12. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  13. The buick has been doing some interesting things when it is wet outside. I noticed this last November, but the car sat for a good chunk of winter, and the problem has not self resolved . Sorry for the long post, but here it goes: With the brakes not applied, it seems to surge. This happens when the car is cold and has sat overnight in high humidity. Understandably, the surge is even worse when the idle is high right after a cold start (it is enough to shift into second). When the brakes are applied, it behaves normally. My first thought was the brake booster is leaking a little vacuum when not applied. I suspected that that is not the issue because there was no air sound and it was very intermittent. I have a switch that turns off the tcc by grounding the brake switch input at the pcm, so I used that to test my suspicions, and sure enough, the brake application itself is not the issue, it is just the pcm thinking the brakes are on that makes it behave. Like I said, the car got to sit out the winter months, so... fast forward to today: I was finally able to catch it in the act on tunerpro. I tried multiple times before but sometimes it would do it only for a few braking cycles, so by the time the laptop was on, it was behaving, or at least so it seemed . So here is the link to the xdls from my trip to work today: Two files, one on my street just showing the behavior at idle only, the other is the rest of my 22 mile trip. The tps signal is what I can see causing the surge. This tps is about a year and a half old. I replaced the connector at that time too. The fact that the brake switch signal changes the tps makes me think that the issue is not in the tps itself, but rather at the pcm side. The closed tps voltage is 0.57. It jumps up to 0.63 or 0.61, sometimes alternating, as soon as the brake is not applied. This happens with either the brakes actually being used or me using the switch to ground the brake switch signal. Two things I noticed: -The behavior slowly got better as the trip went on (towards the end the voltage only jumped to 0.59, and not at all at the very end). -The pcm tried to learn the 0.61 as the 0% throttle position (but pretty sure engine still surged a little), but I would burst its bubble every time I hit the brakes and dropped the voltage back to 0.57. I am not super well versed in tunerpro and calibration, so I could be missing something important. I am suspecting condensation in the pcm or the wiring next to it, because the engine heat could be burning it off. Is that an idea to chase? I have thought about making it waterproof somehow to try and eliminate that.
  14. I needed a new battery for a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the 3.4 L engine. the "book" called for a group size 78 battery. The battery is 10 3/16" long, and fits in the tray, but there doesn't seem to be enough room for the windshield washer fluid container, which fits over the battery. I cannot seem to wedge the washer fluid container into position. The previous owner had a smaller battery in the car, probably a group 75, which is 9 1/16" long, and I was able to get the washer fluid container in the car with no problems using that battery. Was I spoiled by the smaller battery, and gave up to easily when the washer fluid tank wouldn't go back in place with the bigger battery? Are you supposed to "work the washer container" a bit to get it in place, or is a group size 78 battery too big for this space?
  15. Ended up with another Gen 1 (not complaining). After my asshole roommate blew up the engine in my Mark VIII a friend gave me this... 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme coupe. Clearcoat is gone on the hood and tops of the fenders and front bumper. The passenger side body kit needs to be repainted as well. There is also minor damage to the passenger side from when the previous owners hit a deer. Not going to go crazy with the mods on this one until I get the title (should be in another 2 weeks). I do have a list of planned mods (mostly stuff I had done to my previous cutlass's... HUD, ATC, cleaning it up, ETC).
  16. olds93

    engine swap

    I own a 1993 olds cutlass supreme sl with a 3.1 litre v6 with 403,000 kms (240,000 miles ) on it. Will a 3.8 litre supercharged v6 fit under the hood?
  17. GPX

    Sticky Suggestion

    I'd love to see a sticky about engine swaps into 1st Gen cars. You know, something that covered engines and transmissions that are feasible and the relative ease or difficulty of and expected gains from each swap. For instance, I'd love to have an LQ1, but swapping one into my '95 GPSE is probably a stupid idea, but someday, I'd like a motor in there that can generate some serious excitement! It is a Pontiac after all. With these cars all being so old, and newer, better engines available for relatively cheap, it would be great if a person could find all this info in one place to help with decision making. I know I've read threads touting the merits of LA1 and L67 swaps, but there's the LX9 to consider, and probably others. And is turbocharging a complete custom (read: cost prohibitive) proposition? I once again look to the wisdom of the many gurus on the forum...
  18. Just got my first w-body almost a week ago. It's a '99 GP se with the L32 engine option. 156K on the clock with a completly rebuilt tranny:biggrin: Got rid of my Toyota Land Cruiser and pulled the trigger on this one for $1,600. Replaced the front struts and mounts and will be doing a couple of checks on her to put her back up to snuff and hopefully do some upgrades. This car drives awesome. It reminds me so much of my last sports car!('85 IROC-Z) I had back in '99!!!! Times have changed and with a toddler and a 3mo old baby a sports car is not my best choice right now, but with this car I can play, have 4 doors, a huge trunk for the double stroller and I can upgrade!!!!! Have some sick thoughts about this car and hopefully I'll be able to do them as time progresses. Will be lurking and asking questions so please bear with me. Thanks and stay safe guys and gals... Marcos...
  19. For Sale - Best offer For an AWeb powder coated Rear Strut Tower Brace (RSTB) that was installed in a '94 Cutlass Supreme 4dr. Has been sitting in my garage since 2011 when car was sold. Forgot it was still in the garage. I'm preparing to move in 2 weeks and would like to get it to someone for them to enjoy. Don't know what the going rate for one of these is anymore, so make me a reasonable offer and it's yours. I'm also selling FFP Dogbones for a 3100 engine. Comes with mounting brackets that I had stored with it. Thanks!
  20. I can swing a wrench as good as any you, just not a lot of (or make that none) experience with removing or dismantling major engine components. I am schmott though. Not sure if it's better to rebuild or just buy (I'm in NJ). No way to really pick up an engine if I bought one, so would need it delivered in that event. I did a number on mine. Overflushed, waited too long to change gaskets. Low oil pressure (intermittent, particularly when idling), noisy, lifters etc. Generally makes noise only after heating up, sitting in traffic (not long). But after putting 10w40, it just seems to have goteen worse. I guess a lot of this could be on account of crud finding it's way into narrow passageways. Or I should be so lucky. I put Pennz HM 1040 upon recommendation. I think it made the situation worse not better (which could make sense if passageways were already restricted I guess). Liked using it for short runs, but that's not even much of a possibility anymore. Unless I go back to 10w30. And maybe some MM oil? I'm mainly concerned w/the lower part of the engine (except for the gaskets). Could find a 500$ engine somewhere, but how to get it here, etc. Oh, it's not a w, but rather a 2001 Venture. Don't hate me please. Looking to buy something else for now, this Le Sabre about 90 minutes away looks so nice. Am torn between fixing or buying. I will eventually fix the Venture, but later or sooner.
  21. I have a 91 GTP 5 speed that has a couple of problems. First is that it dies if the rpms are somewhat high and I suddenly press the clutch. It basically goes from whatever rpms it was on to 0 rpms and dies. The second one is that once it dies after 2 or 3 times the engine is pretty slow cranking up and will eventually not start. Looks and sound like if the battery was dying. I have replaced the battery and starter, checked the alternator and it shows okay. What could be the problem? I'm hoping that someone here has had the same issues
  22. The previous owner of my car changed the motor in my car, these are all parts from the donor engine, as far as I know, they are all good. There is a EGR valve, a map sensor and a whole host of other sensors, a fuel rail with 4 injectors, a ignition control module with 2 coils on it, a throttle body with the IAC and TPS attached, and some other goodies. I subtotalled all these parts and new they would be over $350. I'm tired of looking at this lot and doubt I would get much as eBay because no one seems to have any love for old w-body parts. These are all from a 90's 3100 and may fit other cars besides the w-body with the 3.1 engine. I will let the whole lot go for $45.00 plus whatever shipping will be to your zip code. Heck, a new EGR is that much!
  23. Hey guys I'm new here, just trying to sell an engine. I picked this motor up a few years ago as a backup but I've got no use for it now as I sold the Monte Carlo I had. The motor is a complete 1991-1993 long block, from cylinder heads to oil pan. It includes every engine sensor, water pump, and alternator all brand new. There is not a used part on this engine, not even a bolt. I will include a box of used parts with the motor, along with the factory service manuals for the engine. There is a 91-93 lower intake manifold, fuel rail, 2 sets of fuel injectors, upper intake manifold, engine cover, and several (Maybe 4-5?) valve covers. Shipping is on you. I can build a crate for the engine and have it sent via freight, or you can drive out to Denver, Colorado and pick it up. Price is firm at $1,200. Thanks!
  24. I bought a 93, 3.1 long block with 19,633 k from a Lumina for my 93 GTP and now I need the remaining parts such as module, etc. So if you have a bad 3.1 or know of some one please contact me. I would like to find one source with all the parts. thanks
  25. pshojo

    3100 Help

    I know this has been discussed before, and i really didn't pay much attention because i've not been in the situation. I have 1995 cutlass supreme 3.1 and giving my engine to a friend of mine that has 1998 buick century 3.1 that is knocking. I pulled both motors and the intakes look distinctly different and some of the sensors are different. Please help me as i'm trying not to miss anything. The EGR, Intake temp sensor, Knock sensor, exhaust manifolds, and fuel Injector harness under the intake looks like the connectors are different and will need swapped. Can i just swap the upper intakes? What else am i Missing? any other sensors, ?? Please help while the engines are out?
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