UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'out'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Site Related
    • W-body.com Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


Biography


Location


Interests


Occupation

Found 7,919 results

  1. *Big Update 12-20-2016* I finally put the lists to spreadsheet and html format. I don't have them hosted for direct viewing currently, but they can be downloaded here: http://www.filedropper.com/tgpvindatabaseThat link expires in 30 days. The file size is small, something like 165kb. It unpacks to about 6.9mb and includes the 89 Coupe, 90 Coupe, and 90 TSTE list in both spreadsheet and html formats. All of the lists are technically incomplete, but they're far more complete than you will likely ever see. There are supposed to be 751 1989 coupes, 2,749 1990 coupes, and 1,000 Turbo STE sedans. Those numbers are stated by the Pontiac Historical Society and Compnine also listed the exact same numbers. The totals I ended up at are 734 for the 1989 coupes, 2,740 for the 1990 coupes, and only 200 some odd Turbo STE sedans. The sedan list is so far off because I never got around to running through the list for them. I did add about 150+ cars to it during the course of doing the 1990 coupe list so at least we have that...The VIN program I used quit working before I got around to making my final pass through of the 1990 coupe list. I made it from the 200,000-277,000 range and only added one car I had missed in my previous methods. I also crossed off one car in that range that I had accidentally listed that was not real. Considering I only came up with one car in that large range, I kinda doubt I would have ever produced the other supposed 9 cars made from 277,000 to about 306,XXX. I need to thank a few people below for their help with this. Skitchin - Huge thanks to him for automating the process and literally knocking months or even years off of this project. turbo-v-sick - Thanks for doing all the leg work on the 1989 coupe list! He has also dug up tons of history and photos on these cars that we might not have ever found without him. ManicMechanic - Thanks for helping with the VIN project and constantly posting pictures and information on these cars making it easier for me to document them. I wouldn't have come across a fraction of the ones you do because I wasn't aware of half of those auction, salvage, etc. sites until you brought them to my attention. I'm probably forgetting some people here, but thanks to anyone that helped in any way, big or small! I wanted to turn in the list in a much more complete format but unfortunately it didn't turn out that way. Too bad compnine did away with the several free vin checks per day when my list was still in its infancy. Those were handy in filling out the color and option info on these cars. Eventually I would like to contact them about getting a custom account and have several people help go through and document the vins. That will not be any time soon though. I'm tired of looking at those numbers for now. I will be lightly modifying the list over time. I have some extra little blurbs of information on some cars I will include in a text document alongside it later. I also want to go through all my old car photos and pull any TGP ones that I documented by vin to upload to a directory to accompany the list. Don't hold your breath on either of those things as it will be quite a while before I get around to them..
  2. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  3. I am turning this over to Jake - 94CutlassVert. Okay, here's the deal. Crazy K and I are researching and building a private database of convertibles. This database will consist of VINs, exterior, interior and top colors, options, original wheels, ect. So what we need from our convertible owners is your VIN (you are welcome to leave off the last 3 or 6 digits if you are uncomfortable with giving us the entire VIN, no one will be using this info except for us to find out what options your car originally came with via a GM parts department. I, or we, will be more than happy to send you this printout if you like!) Your car's info will not be given to ANYONE else. It will simply go on a spreadsheet format that I have created and the printouts will be kept in my files. Many classifieds websites encourage sellers to add the VIN so people may run a BatFax! type report so there's something to think about as well. Even better will be a clear photo of the door jamb sticker (located on driver's door) and SPID label (located in trunk on the spare tire cover.) Also, convertibles you see in the junkyard, on dealer lots, for sale, ect...If you are able to, take down the VIN for us, we can obtain the RPOs and build date from there. Please send a private message (it will be deleted after obtaining the info) to 94CutlassVert with your VIN, build date (both of which are located inside the door jamb, check you VIN to make sure the car's door hasn't been replaced some time in it's life, send both VINs if so), colors & photos. I'd like to keep this post unclutterd, so just a PM will do. Thank you!!
  4. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  5. I had been using a cassette adapter for my MP3 player like everyone else, but since it sounded so awful I wired it straight into the head. Still needed to have a cassette in there so that it would switch inputs, but then it started making this constant clicking sound and won't reverse or eject. Is there a way to get this thing out and make the clicking stop?
  6. Galaxie500XL

    LQ1 LIM Coolant Leak---again?!

    I've been losing a small amount of coolant the past few days. Before I left for work this morning, got out the flashlight, and began looking for leaks. Sure enough, I found coolant on top of the distributor stub. It's been less than 3,000 miles since I replaced the LIM because of this very thing...the surfaces were so clean, you could have eaten off of them, and I used Fel-Pro gaskets, and very carefully confirmed that the torque applied to the fasteners was done correctly... What could have gone wrong?
  7. So after some fidgeting around I finally found the perfect combo to get the rear plugs out. This can be done without removing anythings, without rocking the engine, without cutting the firewall lip. I did all three of my rear plugs in under 15 minutes, and the hardest part was just getting the wires back in because of the goofy plastic tubey thingy that they go in. Here's what you'll need: 1/2" socket wrench 1/2" 5" extension 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor 3/8" universal joint 3/8" 3" extension 3/8" extension connected to your spark plug socket Here's what you do: First remove the plug wire. You may have to use a little bit of force and some twisting and wiggling, but it can be done. With the socket and first extension already connected, lower it into the plug hole enough so that you can still hold it with one hand (and not drop it in). Once you have it down far enough for the second 3" extension to be down past the lip, pop it on to the first extension. Drop it a little further so you can get the U joint on. At this point you should be able to get the socket most of the way down onto the plug. You should be able to now pop the adaptor on, and then the 5" extension. Once you do this, it's pretty self explanatory. You'll have to loosen the plug and then reverse the process (removing each section), but then you should have your plug out, and installation of the new plug is reverse. Again, took me all of 15 minutes to do all three, and half that time was probably fighting to get the wires back on
  8. Does any one know where I can find convertible top seals and weather stripping for a 1992 olds cutty drop? All of mine are completely worn out and cracked. These are the only parts I am having a hard time locating even on the web. Thanks in advance.
  9. RobertISaar

    OBD2 conversion

    what all will i need to convert a 95 monte ls to OBD2 so i can actually tune the motor? i dont care for ABS, and dont have cruise control if it makes a difference. if you could, list a good estimate on price and how hard its going to be to do this. and are there any decent, cheap tuners out there?
  10. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  11. I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the type of steering wheel that contains the radio and climate controll functions. The horn pads on these types of steering wheels alre well known to wear out and the horn will start beeping even when your not hitting the horn button. Most people just pull the fuse and that's it. Well, I have found a solution to this problem. The problem is that in between the horn contacts on both the left and right side of the steering wheel have this piece of material which is like a cardboard like material which compresses and literally crumbles away. When this happens, the horn contacts come in contact with one another and as a result, the horn starts beeping on its own. Well here is the fix... 1) Remove the horn pad 2) Pull back the left and right side of steering cover 3) Bend the contact pins straight and remove contacts 4) Go to your parts store and by a cork gasket making material. The type you would make your own gaskets out of 5) Trace your old pad onto the cork material and cut out 6) Reinstall the contact, contact cover, and horn pad Its a perfect fix. If you have any more questions let me know. I can also email pictures as well
  12. rich_e777

    5/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch radiator swap

    Hows it going guys, had to get a new radiator due to a leak, wont use any kind of stop-leak unless the manufacturer agrees to buy me a new car. So i of course order the bigger radiator from AZ, got it and installed it all the while distracted enough to forget to space the damn cooling fans and the drivers side fan ate a hole into the radiator. No problem, under warranty got another coming. What im wondering is if anyone has had this situation before and what was used to space the fans out slightly enough to clear the radiator and on any of the w-body 3100`s out there are any known to have fan shrouds? Figured some washers would be good enough, dont know. Kind of drunk and just wanting to talk cars i guess.
  13. Out of curiosity, is anyone here running a battery in the trunk? I'm debating whether or not this is a worthwhile mod for me since I am planning on rewiring my car for amplifiers, and I also want to do a CAI, but I'm not wholly convinced. If anyone has pics, I'd like to see that as well.
  14. Heartbeat1991

    Dan's 1990 TGP Take 2

    For anyone not aware, I had bought a TGP in October, 2013 which had a few minor needs. I was chipping away at small projects. I bought a parts car a couple months ago. On July 21, 2014, my TGP burned out due to a PMIII accumulator failure. So now the parts car has become the fixer-upper. So I will update this tread as I finish little projects. It's not in horrible condition. I may sell it soon, as I found one with lower mileage that I might pick up. Here are some pics from when I brought it home : The closer one is the one that burned, the one towards the left is the one I have still.
  15. Greazzer

    2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue

    I am new to the forum, and I may have posted this in the wrong section. I am also trying to learn how to move around on the forum. Here is my question posted in the new member section. Any help please. My wife loves this car, so I am trying to fix it before it goes to the Pull-a-Part. Thanks in advance. [h=2]PLEASE, Help for 2001 Intrigue[/h] I have a 2001 Olds Intrigue. Looks like a bunch of stuff just went wrong at once. It has 215K miles on it. Is there anyone out there that has dropped the sub-frame? Are there any references or info out there on how to do this. I need to replace the water pump, valve cover gaskets, serp belt, and cross-over gaskets. I think it will be easier to drop everthing and work on it while I can easily access everything. I have access to a car lift and full auto shop, although I am not a mechanic by trade, but I have been working on cars for years. Any one, please any information. Time is a killer for me, so I would rather do things faster even if it involves something as exotic as dropping drivetrain. Thanks in advance.
  16. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  17. Ok, I am cleaning out the garage and basement, and just want these parts gone. I am open to all offers. If you make an offer, shipping will be calculated after. OEM GM 3.4L intake manifold gaskets Convertible top switch Oldsmobile alero/intrigue key cyl L67 supercharger coupler GM 6 disc ch changer magazines 2001 Grand Prix Dealer brochure LTZ/Z34 center cap 1st Gen Seat Belt Extender Headlight/HUD Switch OEM GM Z34 badges GM 10 disc changers. 1 - 97, 1 - 94. 2 door door handles inner parts PN found on them Gentex Mirror 267 Donnelly with map lights G6 mirror And for a really rare one, an Add-on On-Star attachment on a GNTX-177
  18. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  19. I picked it up from the original owner, little old lady... its been garaged most of its life, runs great .. and not a spec of rust on the car (its been here in Tucson since day 1) If I can find a nice set of 18" wheels I may put them on.. I have a speed shop here in Tucson, its a mod I could live with and swap back if I needed to as well easily enough. But the car is so original and un molested I would hate to change anything too far and ruin it. If I start driving it more and can put a babyseat in it correctly, I may install a HID headlight conversion too, since its all plug n play. THe car does need struts, they are pretty worn out.
  20. I'm trying to find out how many miles are on my digital cluster, so I just need to know what pins i need to power up to be able to view it, or the whole cluster since I've never powered up the whole thing. Thanks
  21. GOT2B GM

    Battery Recommendations

    Looking to replace my dead 5 yr old Optima red top in the TGP. Would like to stick with a gel battery vs the acid kind. Any recommendations? Walmart here wants $200 for a 720 CCA redtop Maybe I'll hold out to buy one on the drive home from Seattle in a couple weeks.
  22. RobertISaar

    Cheapish 5.25 recommendations

    so, the 5.25 4-way sony units I put in the MC in 2008ish were immediately crap, enough so that I sent the majority of the volume to the rear 6X9s just so I wouldn't have to listen to the front speakers lose all of their shit whenever something sub-150Hz came their way. the factory 5.25 were actually noticeably louder than what those were, along with not sounding like they were abused for years. so, I'm looking at stuff in the $30-40 range and I'm lost. I'm not going to deal with trying to place components in this car, there isn't anywhere I could place a tweeter and not have it look so out of place and still be effective at directing sound. I kind of doubt that i'll want/need them to be amplified to have at least the same apparent volume as the rears while sitting up front, so i'll probably end up with an inline cap("bass blocker") as a high-pass filter with whatever I end up with. so, $40 or less 5.25 composite speakers that aren't going to cause more aggravation than they're worth?
  23. ss427

    1992 LQ1 parts

    I have an LQ1 out of a 92 Z34 5 speed which I will be taking to the scrap yard sometime this week. If anybody wants anything off of it let me know. Selling stuff cheap.
  24. I parked a 1995 Cutlass with the 3.4 dohc in November 2012 with a full tank of gas, and also added Stabil to the tank. It's a convertible that I park (unheated garage) to keep out of the winter salt. It ended up sitting longer than I had planned. In a couple of months it's going to come out of storage. I'm hoping the Stablil bought me some time as far as the gas going stale, and that I can just start driving the car, burn down some of the old gas in the tank, and dilute the remaining old gas with fresh gas. Does anyone have any experience they can share about putting a vehicle that has not been driven for a couple of years back in service?
  25. zcg_cutlasssleeper

    1992 Cutlass Supreme S Tranny

    Hello y'all. I'm not sure who will read this because I am still trying to figure out how to use W-Body as I am new to the whole thing. But I'm going to ask on here if anyone knows about transmission coolers... The ones that are itty bitty and suppisably cools the tranny so hear related failure will not occur. I got a 92 Cutlass Supreme 3.1 btw. Any help would be much appreciated
×