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Found 183 results

  1. Hey guys, I found it long go, can't find it again. I'm looking for the torque specs for the transmission oil pan bolts for a '95 3.1 paired with a 4T60 in my Grand Prix. If there's some comprehensive resource with all of the torque specs for this combo, even better as I will likely need it in the future. The gasket has leaked since I got it a few years back and I'm finally tired of the driveway mess. I figured I'd replace the filter while I'm at it, it is as simple as drain pan, remove old filter, replace with new? Anything I need to look out for? TIA
  2. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  3. My car decided enough was enough, so it popped a head gasket. 3.4l lq1, 138000 miles. Here is the dilema: 1- I can sell it, for basically scrap value because engine issues and its a convertible in winter time and be out of a car. 2- fix it, but risk a main bearing or something bizarre go out in the next 5000 miles. 3- go all in and do a full engine rebuild to stock specs. Which ever option it is, it's going to be expensive. It burnt oil on start up, leaked a little oil over night so seals and stuff alike are on their way out. I need some more experienced advice on this matter, any input is appreciated.
  4. I pulled a few sets of speakers out of the Grand Prix I'm parting out. There is a pair of 6x9 Kickers, 4x6 Alpines, and 4x6 Pioneers. Picture with part numbers/ specs are below. I couldn't find much online about them; probably because they're older models. Would these be decent upgrades to the stock speakers in my Monte Carlo? I'd also let em go for cheap if someone wants to buy them as I can't imagine they're worth much. Also pulled this steering wheel control interface that I can't out anything about either. Anyone know anything about it or have any use for it?
  5. 89 Cutlass 2.8L, 229k miles. This is mostly an "I can't decide so I'm soliciting opinions" question. Car was dying intermittently and randomly (i.e. pull out of the driveway, it dies, but started right up). Also had IAC troubles when nothing seemed wrong with the IAC. Checked injectors, and these are the readings I got (after subtracting 0.3-ohms for lead resistance): 11.0 12.0 11.3 11.8 11.9 8.8 Saar found GM spec is something like 11.8-12.6 ohms. I found that same spec in my 94 FSM, but that's for SFI injectors. Not sure what acceptable range is for old 88-93 MPFI Multec injectors, couldn't find it in my 89 FSM. I've read SFI vs MPFI injectors are slightly different somehow, I so I kind of wonder if resistance specs may differ. Obviously one is clearly bad. 2 are lower than the 94 spec. Due to work and the fact the wife and I are now car-pooling and I'm stuck at work till 5:30 now, no way I'll be able to get used injectors locally. I'll have to buy new and they're at least $30/pop, probably closer to $35/each at Rockauto with their high S&H. The car has high miles, 229k, and tranny is dying a slow death (3rd gear slipping when cold). So I'm mainly looking at spending minimum $$$ to keep my heap on the road. Taking heapiness of the car into account and cost of new injectors, would you advise that I should replace the marginal 11.0 and 11.3-ohm injectors? I'd replace them all with new, but you know, old heap with dying tranny... also, the 12.0 ohm one is a replacement Standard FJ105 I put in back in 1997, so I think it's fine to replace in onesies. Made a poll, in case you don't want to say anything. EDIT: Another option, found "GB Remanufacturing" remanufactured injectors, set of 6 for about $86. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Reman-OEM-Pontiac-Fuel-Injectors-1989-1993-Grand-Prix-3-1L-OHV-/251735659889?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1989|Make%3AOldsmobile|Model%3ACutlass+Supreme|Submodel%3AInternational|Engine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.8L&hash=item3a9c9d5571&vxp=mtr Would be cheaper than buying 3 new ones.
  6. Hi, Can a GM from 1995 to 1998 be powered with a jump starter attached in place of the battery? If so, does anyone know a model name or certain specs to look for to jump start a 3.1 with a completely dead battery? I have a jump starter that I believed is good. A DMM reads 13+ volts between the clamps. However, I hooked it up to a 1995 Lumina and a 1998 Buick Century (also with the GM 3.1) in place of the battery and the cabin dome light wouldn't even come on. Is there something with the ECU/PCM that requires a battery to be installed? From doing a parasitic drain test, I know that when the Lumina is hooked up to a battery it will draw .01 to .1 amps for a few seconds, then .25 amps for a few seconds, then .001 amps thereafter. I didn't know if the ECU was performing a test of the battery at this time. I don't want to mistakenly throw out a good jump starter but it appears to have a very limited capacity. Thanks, Dave
  7. First, some of these questions may be answered here or elsewhere on the interwebz. I know this, and i am currently searching for answers to alot of these things already. I am just trying to expedite the process (or be lazy, however you want to call it is fine with me, lol). If its already posted up in here on another thread, and your going to tell me to f*** off, please at least include a link to the place where the answer is already covered along with your comment telling me to f*** off. It would be much appreciated. I have been absent from this forum for a few years, and there is alot of data to sort through. Now. On to brass tack's. Had two great deals fall into my lap. Have an 01 Century with a blown up 3100, while searching for a suitable replacement engine i stumbled onto a rolled over 98 Regal GS with a properly modified Supercharged 3800. I'm planning on swapping the powertrain of the Regal into the Century. Mechanically this is a no-brainer for me. however i am curious what i should expect as far as electronics go. engine bay: Will the wiring harness's/ECM's be plug and play? Dash/Gauges: The gauge cluster of the Regal was rebuilt (no dead displays! ) Will i have to reprogram anything when i put it in the Century? was there a different wiring harness used in the century that wouldnt allow certain gauges/displays of the Regal's guage to function...? Is the data depicting mileage stored within the gauge or is it stored in the BCM? Transmission: not swap or electronics related, but did these transmissions come from the factory with a limited slip diff? does anyone know the final drive ratio, as well as if there are any alternative ratios available..? also, is there a good no B.S. site showing all the factory specs of these cars (track performance) engine's (depicting internal differences between the N/A 3800 vs S/C 3800, like whether or not the S/C 3800 has forged pistons/crank/rods, etc) Better yet, is there a good site showing in detail the evolution of the Series 1 / Series 2 / Series 3.8L's? Thanks in advance for any help & input.
  8. First, some of these questions may be answered here or elsewhere on the interwebz. I know this, and i am currently searching for answers to alot of these things already. I am just trying to expedite the process (or be lazy, however you want to call it is fine with me, lol). If its already posted up in here on another thread, and your going to tell me to f*** off, please at least include a link to the place where the answer is already covered along with your comment telling me to f*** off. It would be much appreciated. I have been absent from this forum for a few years, and there is alot of data to sort through. Now. On to brass tack's. Had two great deals fall into my lap. Have an 01 Century with a blown up 3100, while searching for a suitable replacement engine i stumbled onto a rolled over 98 Regal GS with a properly modified Supercharged 3800. I'm planning on swapping the powertrain of the Regal into the Century. Mechanically this is a no-brainer for me. however i am curious what i should expect as far as electronics go. engine bay: Will the wiring harness's/ECM's be plug and play? Dash/Gauges: The gauge cluster of the Regal was rebuilt (no dead displays! ) Will i have to reprogram anything when i put it in the Century? was there a different wiring harness used in the century that wouldnt allow certain gauges/displays of the Regal's guage to function...? Is the data depicting mileage stored within the gauge or is it stored in the BCM? Transmission: not swap or electronics related, but did these transmissions come from the factory with a limited slip diff? does anyone know the final drive ratio, as well as if there are any alternative ratios available..? also, is there a good no B.S. site showing all the factory specs of these cars (track performance) engine's (depicting internal differences between the N/A 3800 vs S/C 3800, like whether or not the S/C 3800 has forged pistons/crank/rods, etc) Better yet, is there a good site showing in detail the evolution of the Series 1 / Series 2 / Series 3.8L's? Thanks in advance for any help & input.
  9. Misfire on cylinder 6; I pull engine apart, I find the intake rocker on cylinder 6 moves freely, because of the following. Not sure what happened here. [TABLE=width: 500] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] Decided to change the LIM gasket since I was in it, so I need to remove the push-rods, which requires loosening the rest of the rocker-arms. These seemed exceedingly tight to the point I was afraid that something might break...they seemed way tighter than the suggested 124 lb-in (below). I get replacement rocker-arm, I dig up torque specs. - 2003 Buick Century - valve rocker arm bolt - Consulting technical service bulletin "TSB 02-06-01-034" (just google'd it): Rocker arms:[TABLE=width: 250] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [TABLE=width: 25] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]Torque wrench used; you can see it's lb-in/Nm [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD] [/TD] [TD]The exact setting I used. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] In this engine, the exhaust push-rods are 6" and the intake push-rods are 5.x" (they're shorter). For cylinder #1, the push-rod closest to the drive belt is an exhaust (6") push-rod. I made sure they were in their correct positions, and finger tightened them. I then turn the engine over until cylinder 1 is TDC on compression stroke, so valves are fully closed. They're not adjustable, so I torque them both to the suggested 124 lb-in (or 14 Nm) using a brand-new, never-been-used torque wrench (came with calibration certification & all) until it "clicked". Tightening the first (exhaust) rocker seemed fine, I moved to the second (intake) and it started spinning...the bolt stripped the threads: For the final kick-in-the-nuts, I rotate the engine and pop goes the exhaust rocker, right out of the cylinder head, taking the aluminum threads with it. So now I'm needing to do a thread repair job on the first two rocker-bolt holes, out of two attempts at torqueing them to the correct (as far as I can tell) specs. I'm deathly afraid of doing this again. What the hell am I doing wrong here?!
  10. I found a site that gives specs (torque,fluids,ect), repair info, and diagrams. I located it on a sound forum while looking for diagrams. I logged into it and it seemed like it could be useful in some cases even though the diagrams still don't cover ALL areas of the vehicle. Here it is: http://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?authtype=ip,uid&profile=autorefctr Login: student Pass: watc Maybe it will be of use to someone here. Edit: Seems if you can't find a diagram for your car, just bump the year up a little. I searched a 94 regal instead of 91 and I found the diagram I needed!!!!
  11. anybody go the compression specs? I did some searching without much luck. I"ve got 2 cylinders way off left is front of engine 4 5 6 1 2 3 1 - 160, 103, 135, 142, 140 2 - 190, 200, 200 3 - 181, 156, 156 4 - 172, 171, 173 5 - 200, 181, 189 6 - 112, 125, 120 tested each three times didn't do the oil test, prob should've got coolent leaking out the front of cylinder 4 was just gonna through it back together with new gaskets cause owner wanted it running. didn't run all that bad before suprisingly. Now she wants it running right, so prob gonna do a compressed air test see if i can hear where she's leaking Not that serious cause with it torn down she thinks she wants a valve job and new piston rings anyways. anybody got good links for the specs or should i just join alldata?
  12. Alright, I'm shopping for some new aftermarket rims for my 94' Olds Cutlass Supreme. I'm not interested or like anything Discount Tire has so I'm looking at rims online. I want something you don't see everyday and that's not common on everybody's vehicle. TSW's to be exact. The rims they have don't match my OEM bolt pattern 5x115 size, so I need to get a wheel adapter with the correct bolt pattern. The bolt patterns they offer are: 5x100, 5x112, 5x114, 5x120. Which one would be the correct size and closet to 5x115 for my car? What depth of the wheel adapter should I go with? 1" is way too thick? I'm thinking 0.25" will be sufficient? Wheel hub Specs: Lug: 5 lug Bolt pattern - 5x115 Stud Size - 12x1.5 Hub Bore - 70.3
  13. Either remove the center cap or hub cap from your rim, and loosen the CV axle nut with the weight of the car on the wheel, or jack up the car, remove the wheel, and use a screwdriver inserted into the rotor as shown to hold the axle from spinning as you loosen the nut. A 1-3/8" socket works well for this. Remove the axle nut and washer once the wheel is off. Using a T-60 torx socket and a 1/2" drive breaker bar, loosen then remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts. Support the caliper off to the side so there isn't any strain on the brake hose. Unplug the ABS sensor. Unbolt the ABS connector bracket from the spindle (10mm bolt) Spray some penetrating oil on the 4 bolts pertruding out of the knuckle, holding the bearing into place. Remove the 4 bolts using a 15mm socket and extension combination. Remove the bearing. Reverse directions for re-installation. Ensure the ABS speed sensor is properly seated into the locating holes in the new bearing upon re-installation. Torque Specs: Bearing bolts are 50 ft / lbs Axle nut is 160 ft / lbs Caliper bracket bolts are 150 ft / lbs Lug nuts are 100 ft / lbs
  14. I will be replacing a bad front Timken bearing after less than 3 thousand miles. I may have over tightened the spindle nut since my torque wrench only goes to 150. I think I remember 179 ft lbs. Then, I read a thread that said 118 is the revised torque. I looked around Timkens web site to no avail. Anyone know for sure? Also, is there a procedure- like torque so far and spin, retorque and spin? It's a 94 CS 3100. Thanks.
  15. I came across a new company that is making some incredible looking subs for cheap money and figured i would spread the word on here. Does anyone have any experience with them? Im looking into a pair of the 15s and from what i can find online they are supposed to be a great bang for the buck but if one of the audio specialists on here could take a look at the specs and give me an opinion on them i would appreciate it Heres the link http://obsidiancaraudio.com/index.php?id=6
  16. I'm building a turbo 3400 for my 96 GP. I am looking at the Milzy Motorsports stg 1 turbo cam and the WOT-Tech street/strip turbo cam. From my understanding the Milzy cam does not need different length pushrods but the WOT-Tech does. So that would make the Milzy cam cheaper by over 100$. Specs on the cam's are pretty close other then duration is a good amount more on the exhaust on the WOT-Tech cam. Anyone have any dyno numbers or 1/4 times with either of those cams? Also does anyone know what the max lift stock heads on a 3x00? Thanks, Andrew B.
  17. Can anyone inform me what the Bolt Torque specs are for the upper torque strut to mount/bracket "dogbone", and the four mount bolts to the radiator support? I own a 97 Pontiac Grand Prix GT N/A Thanks
  18. I picked one up today in great shape at the junkyard. I have been wanting to remove my AC from the car for a while, since I rarely drive it and I am pretty sure the compressor is shot. The IC is about the same size as the condenser (i think that's what the radiator lookin part of the AC is called...lol) but anyway, I was planning on removing that, mounting the IC in it's place. Centering the radiator and running the charge lines to it. I would need new coolant lines and some redneck ingenuity to set it up, but I think it will work. I am just wondering if it is worth it and if I will see performance gains. If not I will put it on ebay for about $100 profit I can't find any specs on it, I will keep looking... part number is 9161207 a
  19. Got a 91 lumina euro (with 4spd auto+OD) with aprox 200k has had the heads milled for true surface from blown HG's other than that she's completely stock. The issues are it ran like absolute boar shit bucking 95% of the time we could never get a scan on it to see if it had any sensors malfunctioning because like a little leprechaun it would disappear before it made it back to the house and apparently not store the code(s). I know the speedo goes crazy suspecting the VSS as for the bucking i'm guessing either the CPS or an internal issue, but i have not performed a compression or leak down test. Also after we redid the topend it had a bit of piston slap on cold starts which is why i think it may be internal but hoping it's not. I'm just looking for suggestions on things to check.... proper fuel psi, sensors that can cause these issues (voltage specs would help), compression # etc etc feel free to voice ya'lls opinions! Thanks in advance.
  20. Does anybody happen to have front end alignment specs for a 96 GP SE coupe? We have an alignment rack at school but the motherfuckers that set it up didn't give us a key for the DB so we can't get in to get the specs.
  21. Stock AM/FM/Cass/CD NON Monsoon Concert Sound II Delco Radio. Awesome sounding stereo, I was just wondering if it was possible to purchase replacement speakers from a store like Wal*Mart and if anyone knew what the specs on the speakers are. The passenger side, and drivers side speakers are blown.
  22. Does anybody have an idea on this one? This started today out of the blue… (Fixed...see bottom of thread, it was the IAC valve) I have an ‘89 Grand Prix, 3.1… I turn the ignition over and it may fire but will not start. I give it some gas pedal and it will fire and start. I keep it at around 1,000 rpm and it will run fine, let off the gas pedal and it dies immediately. No spit or sputter, just dies. Today I replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pressure at the rail. I had the minimum psi specs with both the key on engine not running (40psi) and engine running (32psi). The air filter looks fine. I checked and cleaned the IAC valve. I have replaced the following items within the last 10,000 miles. Spark Plugs Plug Wires Ignition Coil Packs (3) EGR Valve Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) Oxygen Sensor Coolant Temp Sensor Throttle Position Sensor PCV Valve Air Charge Temp Sensor (MAT) ECM (Computer) Fuel Injectors (All 6) Any ideas where to start from here?? Thanks Guys!
  23. Well I was driving to my old work place to visit some old co workers and when I get there I get out and there are white paint specs all over the front of my car and windshield. Nothing I could do about it then cause it was dark and cold out. But tomorrow I want to get it off. Will it come of easily with hot soapy water with a microfiber towel? I don't want to scratch the paint.
  24. Hello I am a long time GM guy but have owned other brands. Currently have a '00 Olds Intrigue GLS I got used after owning a '00 Maxima SE 5 speed we bought new for a few years. Owning the maxima made you appreciate the Olds believe it or not. The 3.5 "short star" engine (was derived from specs of Northstar) is a gem! Too bad GM quit making them (said it was too costly to produce, that after just spending $ developing it - typical GM). Its been rock solid, revs freely. I have not done anything but change oil and it now has 155k on it. I'm avid DIY mechanic and am just am in process of replacing my lateral links in the rear end which the adjustable one BENT! It had a bit of rust on it, but nothing scary I thought. Bought a new rear end a salvage and replacing everything. Looked to see if that was a common problem and only saw the aftermarket trailing arms not the lateral links.
  25. I just pulled a strut tower cover for the first time and now see that caster/camber must be un-adjustable. So is that correct and is toe "0"? Its a 4 door. Thanks
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