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Found 478 results

  1. I've been losing a small amount of coolant the past few days. Before I left for work this morning, got out the flashlight, and began looking for leaks. Sure enough, I found coolant on top of the distributor stub. It's been less than 3,000 miles since I replaced the LIM because of this very thing...the surfaces were so clean, you could have eaten off of them, and I used Fel-Pro gaskets, and very carefully confirmed that the torque applied to the fasteners was done correctly... What could have gone wrong?
  2. If you have a lq1 with aftermarket exhaust and sound clips of it can you please post it? And tell what kind of exhaust setup it has. So that way I know what it sounds like so I could decide easier what exhaust I want on mine.
  3. I have an LQ1 out of a 92 Z34 5 speed which I will be taking to the scrap yard sometime this week. If anybody wants anything off of it let me know. Selling stuff cheap.
  4. GPX

    Sticky Suggestion

    I'd love to see a sticky about engine swaps into 1st Gen cars. You know, something that covered engines and transmissions that are feasible and the relative ease or difficulty of and expected gains from each swap. For instance, I'd love to have an LQ1, but swapping one into my '95 GPSE is probably a stupid idea, but someday, I'd like a motor in there that can generate some serious excitement! It is a Pontiac after all. With these cars all being so old, and newer, better engines available for relatively cheap, it would be great if a person could find all this info in one place to help with decision making. I know I've read threads touting the merits of LA1 and L67 swaps, but there's the LX9 to consider, and probably others. And is turbocharging a complete custom (read: cost prohibitive) proposition? I once again look to the wisdom of the many gurus on the forum...
  5. Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the bolt on the rear side of the LQ1 alternator? The one that goes through the bracket on the back of it... When I pulled my alt, the bolt was missing...
  6. My car decided enough was enough, so it popped a head gasket. 3.4l lq1, 138000 miles. Here is the dilema: 1- I can sell it, for basically scrap value because engine issues and its a convertible in winter time and be out of a car. 2- fix it, but risk a main bearing or something bizarre go out in the next 5000 miles. 3- go all in and do a full engine rebuild to stock specs. Which ever option it is, it's going to be expensive. It burnt oil on start up, leaked a little oil over night so seals and stuff alike are on their way out. I need some more experienced advice on this matter, any input is appreciated.
  7. Gibby

    LQ1 drag car?

    Hello all, I recently lost my L67 drag car, it decided to implode at 7000 rpm. Before you ask me what I was thinking, it was fully balanced and had an SFI balancer on it... anyways it is toast. I found a straight, low mile grand prix with an LQ1. I was going to pick it up do as much weight reduction as I can and use it as a bracket racing car, 13.xx times would be cool, but the point is for it to be reliable and consistent. I guess my question is, am I crazy for wanting to do this? Will the LQ1 put up with the constant abuse if I keep up on maintenance?? With weight reduction, (all interior, and everything else I dont need) will the transmission hold up (automatic)? What are your thoughts?
  8. Can anyone tell me if a '94 3.4 LQ1 oil pressure/fuel pump switch will work with a '92 3.1, or if it even has one. Thanks, Steve.
  9. Finally found the source of the power steering leak on my '95 LQ1 Cutlass, it's definitely the pressure hose.. A couple of questions, I've searched the archives, and this looks like a fairly unpleasant job... 1. It looks like the combination of having an LQ1 and an automatic transmission makes this a tougher job..anyone found a good way to get to the fittings on the rack short of following the FSM, and dropping the subframe? I saw the recommendation of cutting the line, and using a socket, but it really doesn't look like I'd be able to get a 18mm socket and wrench on that without dropping the subframe.. 2. Would it make sense while I'm struggling to replace the pressure hose, to go ahead and replace the return hose at the same time? Any suggestions or tricks on how to best go about replacing these lines is very much appreciated...
  10. It's time to ask a fuel injector question of my own. This is the situation with my '94 Cutlass LQ1. At 150K an injector or many started leaking, dumping fuel in the intake while car was off. I either had to crank a long time or floor the gas pedal to lean it out enough to get it started Not having a way to figure out which were leaking I replaced all of them with remanned by Autoline (bad decision). It ran perfect for a month then started cranking longer sometimes. Within a 6 months 1 failed resulting in an intermittent violent surge at idle (400- 1500 a few seconds then die. Thought it was a vacuum leak. I did find a couple of small ones with no resolution. I finally took it to the dealership, they found the faulty injector. They said anything less than 12 ohms was considered faulty. One measured 11 ohms. Then again this was for a '94 lQ1. the injector was replace under warranty, but labor was a lot. I wish I would have bought NEW ones, I still might just to be done with it. It still cranks a while sometimes. This is happening again. I talked them in in to replacement under warranty or money back. Anybody have experience with: GB manufacturing (reman) Standard automotive (new) Accel (new) 23lb/hr. Thanks for your input.
  11. So I've noticed since I started driving the Cutlass again that the car is giving me a whopping 10 MPG in MIXED driving... I'm almost scared to know what it would do in real downtown city driving. Anyways, I hooked up tunerpro to the car, and I'm not getting any codes. The only thing I do see is the computer actually affirming me that I'm getting 10mpg. That's what the dash on tunerpro says. At times I get lucky and it will jump to 12 or 14 but most of the time it's 10. This is interstate driving, where usually, I would get 18-20MPG. It used to be that when the car was in 4th gear and doing 70, I got 23mpg, but that's no longer the case. No matter the speed, it's giving me 10mpg. I have switched the TPS out thinking it was that, but no avail. No codes set, no vacuum leaks, tried seafoaming it, that didn't help. I'm at a loss. The interesting part is that I do smell a sweet honey like smell after turning the car off. I sometimes do also notice the engine a bit sluggish around the 2000rpm mark, but resolves itself if I floor it to 3000rpm. After that it acts normal but will feel sluggish if I go back to 2000rpm. I do have a datastream from the time I ran it with tunerpro, but don't know how to attach. All help is appreciated.
  12. Arkin

    1993 LQ1 -> L27

    hello from Ukraine, people I'm new here, as I'm new with W-body. Bought a 1993 Z34 coupe. Got some issues with my DOHC - it starts really tough, we thought we got starter or battery problems but when took off the transmission and tryed manually rotate the engine - it revealed there is some point where we have to apply much strength to pass it, then it goes smooth, but then again that tough point. We are going to open the engine to see what's up there of course but I keep a Plan B in mind. Plan B : we got a 1994 Trans Sport in town, 3.8L, so are there any issues to bolt that 3.8 into my coupe? I can get the engine and all stuff under the hood including computer. By the way, do I got a 4t60 or 4t60E in 1993 z34? thanx
  13. I notice when I turn on the car or turn it off, I get a leak from the cooling system. At first I thought it was the heater hose quick disconnect, but turns out it may be somewhere else, somewhere further down. I notice the leak from the edge of the subframe and it runs down, but don't know where does it fall to the subframe. I don't see anything wet in front of the front valves, I just know its' a moderate leak and it happens every now and then. It's not an everyday thing. Where could this intermittent leak come from? All help is appreciated.
  14. Hi, got the "service engine soon" light intermittent, checked code #15 and replaced the coolant sensor. Still got the "service engine soon", now permanent and code #15 after working on it all day! What could possibly be wrong? Car is my 1991 GP LQ1. Thank you!
  15. Got a 95 vert and engine light just came on. From researching its an obd 1.5...my obd2 reader does not fit the plug. I have been researching and seems I need a special cable and reader just for this. What is the cheepest route to go to get.this read. Saw a post I can by a cable and get sodtware for my laptop..will that work? Its a lq1 motor as well I was reading.that may make a difference. Also abs light on will the same reader read that? Thanks. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  16. Hey all, My '92 has developed a part-throttle, high-RPM 'hiccup' at 4000rpm and 5500rpm. It's a pretty harsh jerk that feels like the ignition is being shut off and turned back on. This started when I had nothing more than a slightly rough idle, and pulled my ICM and coils to take them in for testing. They all checked out, but when I was putting it back together I found a burned spark plug wire near the routing bracket under the front exhaust manifold. I replaced that wire with a spare I had, and put the rest of it back together. The idle smoothed out, but then this hiccup started happening instead. So I replaced all the spark plug wires last night, and it hasn't changed at all. The ICM was tested on some kind of ICM tester at Autozone, I tested the coil resistance myself, and it was the same on all 3 though I don't remember the exact reading. There are no codes. Last I checked, the plugs were in good shape, though I can't imagine how a plug would cause this. Anyone else ever experienced this before? The only other symptom is intermittent hot-stalling at stoplights, though I think that is a separate IAC problem.
  17. so i have been looking around and i found a couple of w's with some crazy shit done to the motors,but none have been of the 3.4 i was wondering if anyone has found or has heard of some crazy shit that some has actually done to the 3.4 that kinda blew your mind? if found or seen pics plz post.
  18. Hey all. Just joined up. Been around the dub bodzz for a long time. Had a couple Luminii, a Cutlass Supreme, and and Intrigue. Just unloaded the intrigue with 275,xxx around thaanksgiving. I used to hang out here a lot. But that was then. Now I drive a cobalt. But I long for a yello Z34 with the LQ1/284 combo. Good to be back.
  19. Hello, ive got a 1993 cs with the 3.4l in it. I put it in storage last august and didnt touch it until last month. It ran fine other than a purge valve before I put it away. Before I took it out I did a purge valve, upper and lower intake, valve covers, egr, tps, iac, tranny flush and filter, alternator, and other small stuff. Now that I have it out and driving it is seems very very sluggish. Wont accelerate like it used too, when I punch it its almost like its not down shifting. Also when coasting the idle fluctuates alot (500-1500rpm) it has the symptoms of a bad cat but I put a magnaflow one on it last summer. Its stumping me and any help would be very appreciated. Thank you!
  20. So my SES light on my 1994 Cutlass Supreme has been on for a while and I actually had to buy a new laptop to diagnose it because my old one was giving me problems. I'll eventually fix that one but that's another story/another time. Anyways, I'm having an issue where P0117 is triggering the SES light. Tunerpro says the code is "Low Coolant Level" but upon checking the dashboard on TP, my coolant temperature is at -38F, which is absurd considering it's 70F outside. On the car's gauge cluster, the temperature gauge is reading normal, the engine isn't heating up past the 200F mark nor has it actually overheated. On the other hand the fans are always on, which I assume is because the computer isn't receiving the real coolant temp. Upon further searching, I found out the code is triggered by the ECT. With that new piece of information my question now is... where is the ECT located on the LQ1 and how hard is it to get it out and swap it; assuming the sensor is truly bad and not simply disconnected. If I have to lift up the plenum, do I need to change the "o" ring again? All help is appreciated!
  21. 1994 lumina LQ1, it currently has a weird idle. on start up(cold or hot doesn't matter) it revs to about 2000 then slowly comes down to about 800. ANY slight tap of the gas and it revs up to about 1500 then slowly back down. at first i thought it was a vacuum leak but, 1 i replace all vacuum lines with new hoses and 2 using the carb cleaner method i didn't find any leaks. so then i unplugged the IAC valve and that seemed to fix the problem. with it unplugged it doesn't spike up with a tap of the gas and the idle seems more stable. now i just replaced the IAC last november could it have gone bad that quick? between now and then i don't think its been driven but a couple hundred miles. is there a way to test the IAC? any help would be really appreciated
  22. I have researched a lot of threads on coolant leaks and related stuff for the 3.4 Dohc on this forum, and I hear the LQ1 is a pain to air bleed. So I was wondering if anyone has ever actually made a post listing what to do to properly bleed this system so u can get all the air out of it. Thanks P.s. I've used the search function to no avail Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
  23. Reride

    Radiators

    I own two '94 LQ1 CS's both are w/ AC & automatics. One has a very skinny radiator and the other has a radiator that is almost three times as thick. Would there be a powertrain option that would require a larger radiator or is this just a cooling option?
  24. drifty

    Ditching my Lq1

    Hey guys, I just came over from the grand prix forums, this summer I am swapping in an l67 into my 95 GTP. I am wondering if I will be able to keep my current hud and info center (tripometer, gas mileage, etc) or if I will have to swap these out from the donor car?
  25. I have another thread that talks about my trans issues, but as of now I don't know what it can be. It's in the powertrain section. Anyways, since I don't know what exactly it is, I'm going to assume I have to do a trans swap until I get time to have my car checked out by the village idiot... and yes I'm referring to the incompetent mechanics in my area who never seem to know what the fuck an Oldsmobile is.... much less a car on a GM W chassis. Before I sidetrack, I want to know, what transmissions can interchange with the 1994 Cutlass Supreme with an LQ1 engine? Does OBDII play any roles in what I can and cannot swap, or are they interchangable? Remember, I'm not doing the swap, the village idiot is so it has to be plug and play. Did the other W bodies with the LQ1 have different gearings, or are they all the same? Anyways all help is appreciated. Side note: Anyone in the DC area know a competent mechanic? I know there's a guy here that lives in Northern VA that owns a Celebrity and a Lumina, but I don't seem him around as much.
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