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Found 656 results

  1. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  2. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  3. As we discussed in the last thread regarding how much wattage you can run on a factory system, we noticed that our factory 105 amp alternators are not capable of producing enough power to feed a JL Audio 1000.1 amplifier, with wiring and the alternator being the two key issues. To resolve the alternator issue, there are, fortunately, factory replacement options that we can embrace. Fortunately for us, GM used the same mounting points for multiple alternators . The common CS130 and CS130D used in many of our cars can be replaced with the GM CS144 (or CS-144). The CS144 amplifier comes in varieties that produce from 140 amps to 200 amps, with supposedly a 250 amp model also available. These can typically be found in larger cars and SUVs. The following link will outline the available models: If anyone is considering running over 500W of amplifier power, you will certainly need to consider upgrading your alternator. I will be doing more research in the next few days on which cars you can pull these alternators from at a junkyard for cheap. If anyone has any particular range of models off the top of your head, please list them.
  4. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  5. I am not a fan of these and the GTP I just bought has them on, they look great and work fine they are currently on the car now and it is my daily. I am looking for $65 shipped for them, I know how much they sell for new and honestly I have had issues with them on LSx cars and they left a bad taste in my mouth. I am putting stock coil packs on. I will get pics tonight when I get home.
  6. So a whole pile of work later, the paperweight is running and back on the road. I've got two issues with it though. First is the vents; with A/C on, i'm getting air from both the floor and the dash vents. When I'm on the throttle at all, the airflow shifts more towards the floor, and anything like heavy throttle pushes it all the way to the floor. From what I know of the system, that means a vacuum leak, so where should I start looking for it? Second issue is a low idle in drive. According to the tach, i'm right at 500 when idling, and the car has a bit of a vibration along with a voltage drop from the alternator. I'm thinking that the two are connected, though I would have expected a vacuum leak to give a high idle. If it helps, the last repair done was an ECM replacement. Thoughts, advice appreciated! Edit: Cruise control isn't right either. It tries, but can't keep the car up to speed. It's doing something though, because ifI turn it off, the car does suddenly slow down a lot quicker. It's almost like i have some vacuum but not much. Now I'm wondering if maybe I have one of the vacuum lines in the wrong port?
  7. I have a 91 GTP 5 speed that has a couple of problems. First is that it dies if the rpms are somewhat high and I suddenly press the clutch. It basically goes from whatever rpms it was on to 0 rpms and dies. The second one is that once it dies after 2 or 3 times the engine is pretty slow cranking up and will eventually not start. Looks and sound like if the battery was dying. I have replaced the battery and starter, checked the alternator and it shows okay. What could be the problem? I'm hoping that someone here has had the same issues
  8. For those whom have had the pleasure or lack of pleasure with dealing with Vats issues. I'm just wondering if I can get some details. 50% of the time that I put the key into the ignition and turn to accessory, the car dies completely won't even try to start. Doors lock/unlock with hard snap (indicating good battery life) 100% of the time. The battery installed is not even a year old (straight out of AJAM), I had the car die once while running but the challenge seems to be 100% getting power in accessory and then she'll turn over (and turn over strong). Any ideas?? I'm going to take a wire brush to the terminals and pretty much everything else tonight if I have a moment (I haven't been feeling well so not much is getting done lately).
  9. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  10. My car decided enough was enough, so it popped a head gasket. 3.4l lq1, 138000 miles. Here is the dilema: 1- I can sell it, for basically scrap value because engine issues and its a convertible in winter time and be out of a car. 2- fix it, but risk a main bearing or something bizarre go out in the next 5000 miles. 3- go all in and do a full engine rebuild to stock specs. Which ever option it is, it's going to be expensive. It burnt oil on start up, leaked a little oil over night so seals and stuff alike are on their way out. I need some more experienced advice on this matter, any input is appreciated.
  11. dingles9

    A/C not working

    I recently purchased a 92 bonneville se. This is my first gm. I'm having issues with the a.c. system. My biggest concern is a fuse missing from the a.c. slot under the passenger side footwell. There isn't a fuse or wires going to it. I do not have climate control. Could this be my issue?
  12. I have already introduced myself thru the "New Members" section. By the responses have received so far with a couple of ?'s I have asked I'm really stoked about getting the wife's Buick back into shape! A little backround; She bought her Gran Sport new in 1990 from the now defunct Saeger Buick in Columbus Ohio. She drove it for 15 years and 168k well maintained miles. It was her 1st new car and was (is) very proud of it. Even though it's a 3100 and not the 3800 it was fairly sporty. We have owned large dogs and have a house with maintenance issues. When it was time to look at a new ride she wanted a bigger vehicle to accommodate dogs and builing materials. She bought a GMC Envoy in 2005. I expected that she would trade/sell the Buick. WRONG!! She had a senti-MENTAL attachment and wanted to hang on to it, So........ In 2005 was parked out by the garage under the "protection" of a car-cover. Perhaps she thought it would be an occasional use car?? Well, it was never used again. Roll forward to present day. I am into vintage VW's and have restored a couple. We have an annual car show that features a different make/model each year. The 2015 feature is the 50th anniversary of Buick Gran Sport. She would like me to clean it up an show it as an original owner survivor. I'm not as familiar with the intricacies of "modern" cars and the associated electronics but now her Regal is 25 years old and qualifies for "Historic" vehicle status here in Ohio. If you have made it this far thank you. I will post up my progress and pictures here. Thanks for all the help! As she sat On Stands ready to dig in Interior is pretty clean More to come.....
  13. Made a thread about engine issues, but sourced an engine. Topic is no longer needed anymore.
  14. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  15. Hi All, Never been a member of a forum before, so take it easy on me. I have a 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix that is starting to have some issues. I thought I might be able to get some help in this forum. I am a stay at home mother & wife. Live in Missouri, 1 child about to graduate high school and go off to college. Not sure what else to say. Hope to get some answers to the weird stuff my car has started doing, and maybe make some friends along the way. Talk to you all soon.
  16. So took the vert out and tried to.lower the top, but only one side would work. The passanger side is not really moving. Does this sound like a cylinder went out or is there something else to check. I hear the pump and the driverside works. Thanks.
  17. Hello, I have a creaking noise coming from the passenger side front suspension. The noise appeared about three days ago. The noise is only heard when making a sharp right turn at a low speed, at the moment when the weight of the car shifts from the passenger side to the driver side. There are no handling or driveability issues. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  18. Sorry about the other post, tapatalk app didn't use the screen name I had typed in, instead it just used my old email screen name. But anyway, I'm from Fairborn Ohio, and a few weeks ago I bought a 1998 Monte Carlo ls with a little over 200k miles on it from a friend for $460 as a second car. Other car being a 1991 Ford Festiva with a 1.6l swap, and a 5 speed. The Monte Carlo does have some rust issues I plan to get fixed. (Rust doesn't scare me!) Like the rear strut towers are rusted through, but my friend already offered up someone to weld them up. I got quite a few plans for this Monte, and I have a brother that knows the 3100 l82 inside and out, he's even done the 3.4 top end swap to his Malibu. First things first though, the rust needs fixed before I dump any amount of money into it. Pics coming shortly.
  19. One thing I have noticed since my car was new, over 7 years ago, is that the rear tires bowed out a little bit. You could see this when approaching the car from the rear. I was told it was normal, by both the dealer and by tire stores. I never studied Grand Prixs or Monte Carlos of the same year to see if the tires did that. That seemed to be the case on some LaCrosses. The tires wore well for the first 30,000 miles and I'm sure I knocked out the alignment somewhere along the way. They are wearing faster now. I will need to replace them and get an alignment at the same time. I sure didn't get the 60,000 miles advertised for this OEM tire. My last W-body's original tires went 80,000 miles. Question: Is this bowing out of the rear tires normal for some W-body makes? Is this the sort of situation where shims will need to be added when I get a 4 wheel alignment? I've never seem them insert shims during a wheel alignment on any car I've owned. "Bonus" question: If you were going to go into some high quality Michelin tires, would you also replace the struts or do that a little later? I've heard OEM struts typically last 50,000 to 60,000 miles, on average. Your input is highly appreciated. Thanks!
  20. Hi everyone! I've owned a 94 cutlass 3.4 for about 8 months now and practically everytime I've search a question about my car it brings me to this site so why not join? Absolutely love my car and looking forward to learning more from the forum here. I do have some interesting issues that have been boggling me for a while now so looking forward to seeing if anyone can help as well!
  21. Ok need some help and Ill try to be as detailed as i can. 3.1 with 113k miles, having idle misfires and misfires at any rpm. Give it more gas trys to cover it up but its there. Checked spark plugs they all looked perfect, i replaced them anyway. I also replaced the spark plug wires. when you let off the gas it bucks and surges hard. in drive at a stop it feels like it will die but doesnt just idles missing . Theres no water or antifreeze in the oil. Theres good fuel pressure. No signs of vacuum leaks. New fuel filter . New air cleaner. Heres the snag I have run down on my budget for this car and I have enough to get a new ignition module or coil packs but not both. I really dont want to just keep throwing parts at the car. I know check for codes , plugged the code reader in and its not throwing any codes at all. Which boggles the mind with such pronounced misfiring. No codes. So which direction should i go or am i missing something? please help this is our only vehicle and I hate driving it in such condition. Thanks in advance.
  22. For a while now i have had a surging problem with my grand prix (usually around 17-2400 rpms while under load like going up a hill) and i just chose to ignore it. Until it started to stall out randomly the other night. So far i have change the Coil packs, ignition module, crank position sensor, camshaft position sensor and i am still having the same issues. I finally got a better scan tool and was able to read a Camshaft position sensor fault and while watching the live data stream i noticed the RPMs on the sensor would jump all over the place while at a consistent rpm. Even after i changed the sensor the same problem remained. So I am starting to think it might be the wiring from the Camshaft sensor to the PCM. Was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas? thank you for your time.
  23. Forgive me for the car being dirty in the pictures. I'll take care of that once it warms up around here. I've been pondering about repainting my Buick for some time now. The car was brought down from Arizona to Florida at the turn of the century. I remember first seeing her and how she shined bright white in the sun. Fast forward to the end of my Freshman year of highschool and the horror begins. It started on the roof of the car. A little patch of surface rust and some peeling paint. That would eventually take over the entire roof. The hood and trunk started to peel after the roof. The problem areas are on the top of the car but now there are issues starting on the tops of the rear quarters with peeling paint. I find this car intimidating to paint with the ammount of trim there is to remove and tape off. I'm also worried about having to pull the fixed glass and cleaning up any channels under them to kill any speck of rust. Knowing where I stand all the exterior molding will have to come off. If I had the tools and place to do it I'd give this car a full unibody strip and restoration, but right now that isn't feasable. I need an alternative to keep this car going untill I can get a place to do that. My questions are: >How to I remove the trim off the car? >What is the best kind of paint I should use for my situation? (If it be just a good primer, rattle can white, or full on pro paint job.) >Is removing fixed glass as intimidating as I think it is? >Do they even sell weather strip kits and the such for my car? As the days go on these rust issues haunt me. I wanna be able to clear this up till I can be able to do that restoration that I wanna do.
  24. Boss got an 06 caddy cts 3.6, 6-speed the other day that hes thinking on parting out. Needs an engine, has passkey issues etc etc. Looks showroom fresh. What parts can I use? Any of the clutch related components compatable with an f40 or a 284? Already planning on snagging the shift knob, boot, and center console
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