rich_e777 Posted July 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2014 So looks like I`ll have some more Cutlass time coming up and I'm going to work on this and my suspension build. I really think I need to grab another transaxle to swap vs trying to fix my current one for now. I know its been asked before but I cannot find where, surely there are different gear ratios for al the 4T-60Es out there and Im wondering which one would be the best to grab. And how much does one weigh? And would anyone happen to know when/IF the electrical connection was changed between the years. Also I go and start it up 2-3 a week and tinker around under the hood. I have come to suspect that disconnecting the negative and reconnecting will allow my trans to shift much like unplugging the modulator, shifting, then replugging. This has me thinking maybe the problem is electrical instead of mechanical. So say if the connector is unplugged what would happen if the trans is shifted, will it go into gear? Schurkey- went to have that leak down test done and the consensus among the guys at the shop was that the engine was running way to smooth to suspect a lack of vacuum to the trans. The one that knows transmissions thinks the input shaft seal is rolling/failing making the problem almost intermittent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nas Escobar Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 I'm with Rich_e777 on this one. What's the difference between the 4T60E's? I remember something about the 3.1 LH0 having a lower gear ratio or something to that extent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 surely there are different gear ratios for al the 4T-60Es out there and Im wondering which one would be the best to grab. Define "gear ratios". The transmission gear ratios are all the same. Final-drive gear ratios vary with vehicle model and options. Changing the final drive will require computer tuning. There's a chart on this site somewhere with the various final-drive ratios and the vehicles that they came in. I don't remember where I saw it, but it exists. And would anyone happen to know when/IF the electrical connection was changed between the years. The wiring absolutely was changed over the years. Seems my '93 was a 1-year-only trans wiring system. Schurkey- went to have that leak down test done and the consensus among the guys at the shop was that the engine was running way to smooth to suspect a lack of vacuum to the trans. The one that knows transmissions thinks the input shaft seal is rolling/failing making the problem almost intermittent. I took a vacuum reading of the UIM modulator line and got a fluctuating(non-steady, needle just wiggles back and forth with no pattern) reading from IIRC 14Hg-19Hg There's clearly SOMETHING wrong with that engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted July 26, 2014 Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 w-body 3.1/3100 are all 3.33, all LQ1 are 3.43. difference is 3%, which is nearly undetectable to the driver, the PCM might complain about it. with a car with the 3.33 set turning 2000RPM, a 3.43 car would need to be spinning 2060RPM to match speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted July 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2014 (edited) Thanks for the replies you guys, That cleared up the questions. Almost. My manual has several different model codes for the 4T-60, would getting a different model number mean I would need to splice or rewire my male connection on the harness for it to work? My trans model is CMW, Edited July 26, 2014 by rich_e777 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rich_e777 Posted April 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Getting closer to having my trans rebuilt, and wondering is there any parts that could be more reliable or stronger vs what will come with the professional rebuild kit? Also as far as quality goes is there one I should go for before going for the ones I can order through AutoZone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schurkey Posted April 4, 2015 Report Share Posted April 4, 2015 Getting closer to having my trans rebuilt, and wondering is there any parts that could be more reliable or stronger vs what will come with the professional rebuild kit? "Rebuild kits" come with the wear parts (clutches, steels, bands), and seals/gaskets. There won't be any hard parts, and those are the ones you'll need to be "more reliable or stronger". Talk to a local trans shop, ask what they're installing in the transmissions to make them better-than-new. An internet search for high-performance 4T60 parts would be a good plan. I'd start at the Transgo website first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redgrandprix Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 You can get alto red eagle clutches, adjustable vac modulator and intense-racing has a 3rd clutch piston with more surface area, im sure transgo has a shift kit. Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted April 5, 2015 Report Share Posted April 5, 2015 3400-95-modified on 60V6 has played around quite a bit with his 4T60E, if I had a question of what is available, he would be the first person I would send a message to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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