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Found 960 results

  1. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  2. Long story short, I have a laptop that functions perfectly aside from having a battery that doesn't batter. To spare some details, I reinstalled a fresh XP copy, tweaked some things, and got centrafuse mostly running how I want (other than some plugins and codecs for video). I have about 12 seconds until complete hibernate from button push, and about 15 seconds from cold start out of hibernate until music starts. My hurdles are switching it on and off. My plans are to get a DC-DC laptop adapter that's the proper voltage and whatnot (about $14 online), and then wire a cigarette lighter in somewhere so that it's easily disconnected. I haven't rewired anything yet since it's cold, but I'll probably run a thicker power wire to a distribution block, and then run my amp and this off of it. So, with the power mostly planned, here's kind of the setup I'm going for: If I hardwire it with a DC-DC plug, and then just have something "push" the button after a few seconds (after crank), that would do 100% of what I need it to. Basically this turn key on power comes on, utilizing remote wire in the same manner as an amp? 5-10 second delay to allow voltage spike from crank, crank and start button press once started (doesn't have to involve the 500rpm thing, 5-10 seconds will do the same thing, just on a timer instead of an rpm signal) the issue will be going into hibernate, having it retain power for maybe 30 seconds before cutting off turn key off maintain power, button push 30 second delay cut all power I'm open to thoughts and ideas. I know I can buy something to do all this, but why spend over $50 for something I should be able to do for less than $20? I may solder in a secondary power button lead off of the original, so that I can basically run a remote button somewhere if I need to for testing purposes. My goal is to use this primarily as a carputer, but maintaining it's laptoppiness. for reference, it's a celeron 2.4ghz processor, with 700 some megs of ram, so plenty to run audio and some decent video OH! I almost forgot! My plans to start are to run a cd HU in the foxglove, and maintain stock speaker setup, and just run this into the aux jack for now, so the only issue with this is finding the happy medium of two separate volume controls. And then of course I'll run a touchscreen in the stock HU location. I thought about putting it where the DIC is, but it's gonna be too difficult I think with the shifter
  3. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  4. When I turn on the A/C or the heat I can hear the blower turning on (quite loudly if it's on 3 or 4) but no air comes out of the vents. If I put my hand near defroster vent it feels slightly cold or hot depending on the setting but no air coming out. Any ideas on how to fix the issue? Thanks.
  5. Ok, so a quick question on voltage regulation. I suspect I know the answer, but if anyone can confirm I'd appreciate it. I've been having an issue for a bit with voltages. when cool / cold out, the voltage shoots up to 15-15.5+ (confirmed on a DVM). Now that it's been hot lately, I've been running the A/C and that causes voltages to run 12.5-13 after just 10 minutes of driving. So my question is what performs the voltage regulation; is that internal to the alternator, or is that done by the ECM? I'm hoping ECM, but I'm thinking it's the alternator...
  6. [video=youtube;UsMlsDgMXJM] I have a bad rattling sound coming from the driver side of my car somewhere. Anyone else have this issue? The rocker panel trim cover seems more loose on this side than the passenger side. It's driving me nuts and I can't figure out exactly what's causing it.
  7. I have a 91 GTP 5 speed that has a couple of problems. First is that it dies if the rpms are somewhat high and I suddenly press the clutch. It basically goes from whatever rpms it was on to 0 rpms and dies. The second one is that once it dies after 2 or 3 times the engine is pretty slow cranking up and will eventually not start. Looks and sound like if the battery was dying. I have replaced the battery and starter, checked the alternator and it shows okay. What could be the problem? I'm hoping that someone here has had the same issues
  8. Basics- 96 Lumina 109k, 3100. Car has all new fuel lines, AC Delco fuel pump, fuel pump relay, new gas tank and new filler neck. I intermittently get this P1441 code when the car is cold and driven past 20 mph. It comes and goes as it pleases. I've done some research online but I'm not sure where to go in terms of diagnosis. Also- unsure if this is related. I am having a hard start issue once the car is up to operating temperature. When the car is cold, I have no issue at all. Would like to straighten this out if possible. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  9. Hey, W family. 1st & foremost...can't wait for the W-Body Nationals this year! 2ndly, my 92 3.1 is sputtering, sometimes to the point of stalling abruptly and spontaneously when hot. Some days it's perfect. Some days, it'll want to leave you stranded. My 1st thought was the new pos Airtex fuel pump is failing, because it has been whining loudly like a vacuum cleaner when hot. Now, I'm thinking FPR. It's showing 43 PSI w/key on, 37 at idle. When I pull the vacuum line to the FPR, 43 PSI again. Am I on the right track here to replace the FPR? Thanks!
  10. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone can direct me to where the rear power window fuse/relays are? I knew that the passenger side rear windows motor was probably on its way out (it was going up and down slowly), the drivers side rear window operated very smoothly...now all of a sudden neither window will go down no matter if I push the main controls near the drivers seat or the controls for each window in the backseat...I'm not sure what the issue could be...Iocated the fuse panel (inside the glove box) and also both fuse panels underneath the hood, however, I am not seeing anything in regards to the rear power windows. Is there any other place that there may be a fuse box located? When I push the buttons from the drivers seat all I seem to hear is a "clicking" sound and that's it...I'm sure that both motors couldn't have just gone out at the same time without warning...am I missing something? Thanks in advance. Trey
  11. I looked for the post I made asking for help on this issue ,but cannot find. The '95 Cutty would 'cam' at start up, (idle would bounce up to 3000+ and down low and would stall). Cold made this worse. Once engine warmed up problem went away. My mech found a vaccuum leak under the intake/plenum. I did not see the part, it was a special grommet under the top of the motor. It took days for the part to come in (rare?) My mech considers the 3.4 a rare engine, I don't. So not sure if the grommet fixed the problem or if taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. It is fixed thankfully. Almost $600 though... Hope this helps someone else.
  12. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  13. Made a thread about engine issues, but sourced an engine. Topic is no longer needed anymore.
  14. Hey guys im having a issue with the car, car just died taking off from the gas station and i got no spark. I got a crankshaft Sensor and im trying to figure out where it is but we checked fuses and i noticed a fuse in spot 10 which is 15 AMP IGN ( Under hood fuse box) keeps blowing everytime i go to crank after i replaced it. Any ideas on what it could be besides possible bad wiring? I got no idea what the fuse is tied to.
  15. Hello everyone, I am having a very small coolant leak from the bypass pipe that runs from under the throttle body to the top of the water pump housing. It is leaking from the connection where the heat hose assembly connects to it just above the water pump housing. I have had to replace the gasket that connects this pipe to the water pump housing before and it was no issue. I was wondering if anyone has any information of where I can find this pipe. I have look all over, and have been unsuccessful. Its for a 89 Grand Prix with the 2.8L.
  16. 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door. So, I open my passenger side door and the fuse panel on the dashboard is exposed, the piece of cardboard that have been glued on, fell off. Not my doing, but the previous owners. I discover the following fuse/wire issue. Does anyone have any idea why someone would do this? My gut is telling me this isn't safe, but I'm worried that if I disconnect it, my car won't start or something catastrophic will happen. Those wires are hooked into the only 25amp fuses on that particular panel. The wires run down into the dash and I can't see where they go from there. Thanks in advance for any information/suggestions/guesses.
  17. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  18. 1. The biggest issue is that occasionally it just won't start. It will act like it's going to turn over, then it won't, or it will start, runs the rpm's really low and die. If I sit for about 45 minutes, it will just start out of the blue. The mechanic says he thinks it's the fuel pump, but he can't get it to repeat the issue anytime he has it in the shop. I have found if I keep the gas tank over 1/2 full it doesn't do it. 2. Today I had a 2nd key made for the car. I went to make sure it worked, it wouldn't start the car. (I've never had this problem with a store made key.} I started the car with my factory key, it started right up. I shut it off, used the store made key & it started right up but the Security Light came on & stayed on the entire way home. About 2 miles. When I got home I shut it off, turned it right back on with the store made key, Security Light still on. Not even 10 minutes later my daughter went to leave with the store bought key & it wouldn't work. Has anyone ever had this happen? I have never seen the Security Light come on, let alone stay on, nor had a store made key not work. Thank you in advance for any advice you can give me. Anyone know the best way to clean your headlight covers? Mine are getting pretty nasty & making it hard to see at night. Thanks again, Jennie.
  19. Good morning. I have been having an on going issue with my 91 Regal with a 3.8. The radio "whines" with my engine RPMs. I have new AC Delco plug, wires, and coils. Is this a common problem with older cars ? I do still have the factory radio and such. Thanks
  20. I know much has been posted on the topic, but I just wanted to mention that I am one who has ran through the gamut of troubleshooting steps for correcting the multiple misfiring issue. Mine ended up being the ICM. Replaced it with the slightly cheaper Valucraft ICM, she ran like new. Less than a year later, the wonderful P0300 misfiring came back. Had it start happening in the middle of my trip home from work. Parked it, let it sit overnight. Next day, problem was fine until I drove it for approx. 15 minutes, then it was back. It did this two more times before it finally became a permanent issue. I decided to swap out the ICM FIRST this time, and its back to running like new now. Just wanted to share this so that others know: 1. An ICM can fail again within a year or less of being replaced. 2. Especially if you go w/ the cheaper Valuecraft ICM I bought the cheaper one again (much to my chagrin) as at the time I was only 90% sure it was the problem. If you ever get in this boat, spend the extra $30 and get the Duralast (or AC Delco) one. Regards
  21. I honestly can't tell if the Passkey 2 system in my 1998 Monte Carlo is bad and in a bypass mode if that is even possible. Or if it has been physically bypassed at a certain time in the car's life. When I pulled the cluster out to reinstall the Chg Oil Soon bulb, I noticed the security bulb had been pulled, so I swapped a bulb into its socket, and when the car is on and started, it just stays lit. Never had any issue with it starting at all. I would think if it was bypassed, the light wouldn't be on at all since the system would just be tricked into thinking the proper key WAS in the ignition. But also confused because if it was just a fault in the system, it usually strands people, and the car is unusable until repaired, or bypassed. Unless there is a rare fault that happens where it just disables the security and allows the car to start regardless if the resistance on the key pellet is correct. I only ask this as I bought 2 keys off ebay, seller says not to go off Ohm readings to figure out the key number, but that is what I did anyway, since the multimeter reading perfectly matched the design resistance of a particular numbered key. But if the system is faulty, or bypassed then reguardless of what key number I ordered, they should all work.
  22. Hey, I've got a '91 GTP 3.4 with 220k on it. It has an intermittent lifter tick when hot. All of the lifters clatter for the first 1/2 second before quieting down during a cold start, which is quite common from what I've read (had a 95 Z34 which did the same thing). After 15-20 miles of highway driving, I hear a lifter ticking (on the front band it sounds like) after I slow down and then engine is idling. It will quiet down and then get louder as I drive. If I allow the engine to cool for a bit, it gets over this problem. Any of you guys have this problem? I put a new set of Victor Reinz lifters in this thing to fix this issue, but it didn't change it much. I'm running syn. 10-30. Oil pressure is well within the acceptable range, according to the service manual. Do the oil temperatures get particularly high in this engine?
  23. Hey everybody, 94 cutlass supreme 3.4. When I get on the gas it accelerates fine up until about 5500 RPMs. At this point regardless of what gear it's in the car stops gaining power, engine gets noticeably louder, and the check engine light comes on. Nothing else seems to be affected and the car still drives fine besides this issue. After I have turned the car off and back on the check engine light goes away. Any ideas where my top end power is going?
  24. For a while now i have had a surging problem with my grand prix (usually around 17-2400 rpms while under load like going up a hill) and i just chose to ignore it. Until it started to stall out randomly the other night. So far i have change the Coil packs, ignition module, crank position sensor, camshaft position sensor and i am still having the same issues. I finally got a better scan tool and was able to read a Camshaft position sensor fault and while watching the live data stream i noticed the RPMs on the sensor would jump all over the place while at a consistent rpm. Even after i changed the sensor the same problem remained. So I am starting to think it might be the wiring from the Camshaft sensor to the PCM. Was wondering if anyone else had any other ideas? thank you for your time.
  25. I've got a 2008 base Buick LaCrosse with a 3800 Series III V6 and under 50,000 miles. I got an oil change last week. The next day, the check engine light went on. I was wondering what they might have messed with at the dealership that possibly loosened a connection or knocked out a sensor. It was purely a coincidence. I went to an auto parts store. They scanned it with the OBD II device as a courtesy and it kicked out code p0128. This means "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." I was thinking that, most likely, I would be replacing the ECT sensor (not an expensive sensor) or the thermostat was stuck open. Tonight, when I drove off, the checking engine light went off. And it has stayed off. When the light went on, we had had a cold snap. Today, it was about 20 degrees F warmer outside. I'm wondering if this had anything to do with it and if I can ignore the issue. What do you think? Have you had check engine lights that came off and then sort of went away? Also, have you heard of this particular issue and could it have been caused a big drop in the temperature outside?
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