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Found 3,503 results

  1. The BLUE connector is C1. Wire A = a RED wire. Connect it to an ORANGE wire that is HOT ALL OF THE TIME. (I connected mine to the ORANGE wire that gives power to the cigarette lighter, but it is recommended that you connect it to the ELEC. Fuse #2 constant +12V (top row, middle fuse).) Wire B = PINK/BLACK. Connect it to a wire that is HOT IN RUN. (I connected mine to one of the PINK/BLACK wire in my dash, but it is recommended that you connect it to CLUST. Fuse #9 switched +12V (3rd row, far right).) Wire C = BROWN. Connect it to the light on input. In my car I have a YELLOW wire in slot C10 but I think that that is exclusive to the digi-dash. I want to soy that there should be a YELLOW wire coming out of the headlight switch that should work. I know that on my dash, when the lights are on, and the display is at MAX, then it has no power in the wire, but when I adjust the lever down, the wire becomes hot, and dims steadily. I use a tester that is just a screwdriver looking thing that has a point at one end, and an alligator clip that you hook up to ground. Wire D = GREY. Connect this to one of the grey wire for illumination. I hooked mine up to the GREY wire that lights up the bulb for the cigarette lighter light. Wire E = BLACK/WHITE. This is a ground. Wire F = BLACK/GREY. This wire is not used. Wire G = YELLOW. Connect this wire to the LITE BLUE wire in the dash (You may not have this wire). This is your English/metric wire. In my car, I push a button on the dash to change it from English (MPH) to metric (KPH). When this wire is hooked up, it automatically changes the DIC display from one to the other when the E/M button is pushed on the dash. This is a wire that is not necessary for the DIC to function, so if you do not have the wire, then just leave it unconnected. Wire H = BLACK. This is a ground. I hooked this up to the BLACK wire connected to the cigarette lighter light. The BLACK connector is C2. Wire A is ORANGE. Connect this to the ORANGE wire coming out of the ALDL connector under your dash. This is your SERIAL DATA INPUT where the DIC will get the info for your gauges button. Wire B = DARK GREEN. Connect this to the DARK GREEN wire in the dash. This is your Vehicle Speed Input. In my car it is wire number D15. Wire C = PINK. Connect this one to the PURPLE wire in the dash. This is your vehicle Fuel sender wire. In my car it is wire number D13. Wire D = BLACK/GREEN. This is another GROUND. It is not used in the 91 model. Driver Info System was not available 92+. You will not find a new cutlass with one. If you put one in your car, then it will go where the storage cubbyhole is under the ashtray. The screw-holes for the 98 Regency’s DIC is identical the Cutlasses, so it will go there with no problem. If you get the DIC out of a Cutlass, then be sure to get the storage pocket as well. IF (OR WHEN) you get the HUD, then the control switch will go where the storage is. 89-90 cars got a little pocket in the empty space. HUD control panel was mounted above the headlight switch (below the dash pad). 91 cars got a little pocket if they didn't have HUD. Cars with HUD got the control panel instead of the pocket. Is your headlight switch up high next to the speedometer with the foglight switch next to the air vent? If so, then the HUD switch goes in the pocket. My car headlight switch is located next to the vent, with the foglight switch next to the speedo. (INT'L models also had the BASS BOOST switch as well as the foglight switch) But I will still put the HUD switch next to the DIC.
  2. Well, just a few minutes ago, my brother and I arrived home. I had just picked him up from work. I turned to back into the parking area across the street from my house. I put the car in reverse and began turning back in the other direction to straighten the car out. The steering wheel got very stiff, it felt as if I lost all power assist. The steering didn't act up before this. It made no moaning or grinding noises when this happened. I get the car parked and pop the hood. Reservoir is full, there is no puddle underneath the path of the car. I start it back up and turn the wheel back and fourth while my brother watches the steering pump. Wheel is equally stiff the whole time. He said the pulley is turning and there's no fluid shooting out. So does anyone know what the issue might be? The only problem I've had with the steering previously was in the winter, the pump moaned and squealed like a banshee until it warmed up. It never was abnormally stiff or losing any fluid whatsoever. Not long before it got cold, I drained the fluid out of the reservoir and replaced it with Lucas Power Steering Stop Leak, hoping that its conditioning properties would prevent any headaches in the near future.
  3. MaD

    Mufflers.

    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  4. I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the type of steering wheel that contains the radio and climate controll functions. The horn pads on these types of steering wheels alre well known to wear out and the horn will start beeping even when your not hitting the horn button. Most people just pull the fuse and that's it. Well, I have found a solution to this problem. The problem is that in between the horn contacts on both the left and right side of the steering wheel have this piece of material which is like a cardboard like material which compresses and literally crumbles away. When this happens, the horn contacts come in contact with one another and as a result, the horn starts beeping on its own. Well here is the fix... 1) Remove the horn pad 2) Pull back the left and right side of steering cover 3) Bend the contact pins straight and remove contacts 4) Go to your parts store and by a cork gasket making material. The type you would make your own gaskets out of 5) Trace your old pad onto the cork material and cut out 6) Reinstall the contact, contact cover, and horn pad Its a perfect fix. If you have any more questions let me know. I can also email pictures as well
  5. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  6. rich_e777

    5/8 inch to 1 1/4 inch radiator swap

    Hows it going guys, had to get a new radiator due to a leak, wont use any kind of stop-leak unless the manufacturer agrees to buy me a new car. So i of course order the bigger radiator from AZ, got it and installed it all the while distracted enough to forget to space the damn cooling fans and the drivers side fan ate a hole into the radiator. No problem, under warranty got another coming. What im wondering is if anyone has had this situation before and what was used to space the fans out slightly enough to clear the radiator and on any of the w-body 3100`s out there are any known to have fan shrouds? Figured some washers would be good enough, dont know. Kind of drunk and just wanting to talk cars i guess.
  7. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  8. I've had a couple PMs about this topic over this spring and summer. Since most convertible owners are getting the cars out of the garages. This was a new piece of NOS weather stripping about a year ago. They just don't last. So save your money and don't buy those E-bay NOS convertible weather strips. Figured I'd show how to fix this problem and give a lot of info on the way. I know this has been done before. No one has really done a complete write up on it. These are 1993+ Camaro/Firebird front window weather strips. You can buy these new or pull them at a local yard. There are several clips that hold these in place. Just put a flat screw driver down in between the window and the door and pry up. They should come off really easy. I paid 3 dollars for TWO of these at the local yard. You have plenty of material to do the job. There are clips that used to hold it onto the F-body car. I removed these so they weren't in the way. I took a flat head screwdriver and pried up on them and they came off. There are six rivets on this piece of weather stripping. I drilled them out to remove what they were holding. There are three of those metal bars on the back of the weather stripping. I removed so they would not be in the way of the window. You will need to remove the B pillar trim. It's about 6 screws. Have junk in the trunk? Remove it. To remove the piece of trim below the weather stripping, you will need to go in the trunk. There are three 9mm nuts that attach it to the car. The last one is a stretch. Once that is off you have a much better look at what your dealing with. You will need to drill out those rivets. Roll down the window! You do not want to let the drill bit hit the glass. I tossed in a rag in between the window and rivet. Raining outside. Tossed it up were it needs to go. The length of the factory weather stripping. Measure twice and mark your mark twice. Then drill once. Make sure it's in the right spot. You can see I have some rubber remaining in my drilled holes. I made sure I cleaned that out before I installed. That way you have a really nice fit and finish. Time for the pop rivet gun! Then pop in your new rivets. Now it's time to put the B pillar and trim back on. Old piece. New piece. And enjoy your new clean weather stripping. It looks a lot better than the old stuff.
  9. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  10. Got a 92 olds cutlass supreme convertible and a few years back the fog lights just stopped working. I notice a lot of the same cars on the road have their fog lights off so not sure if this is a normal problem or not. And yeah i know its not the sealed beams themselves because Ive changed them. Anybody got any pointers?? thank ya:thumbsup:
  11. Hey guys new to the forum. I have a 92 four door 3.1 lumina cream puff lol....it's pretty solid but the trans seems to not step down when slowing down. Hard for me to explain but let say I'm driving 40 mph then come up to a stop sign ect. After I stop its like in neutral...if I press the gas hard enough it will kinda slam into gear. Or if I'm driving and come up to a stop sign ect stop manually put it into netural then to drive works every time. Just extremely annoying.
  12. Nicutlass_Supremacy

    Low Voltage problem with low beam headlight

    I have an oldsmobile cutlass supreme 94 3.4L v6. The problem is that when I turn on the low beam headlight the voltage meter goes down almost to 8 volts but the thing is that when I switch to the hig beam the voltage goes up and turning other things also makes voltage change but sometimes it goes down. So I think that the alternator was bad and I made this test. With the car turn off I switch the lights on and nothing happend the voltage was good about 10 volts but suddenly when I change to low beam voltage drops and lights and everything almost went of. So I turn off the lights and the voltage went up again. I ve tried this several times and sometimes it happens and sometimes not. I think theres something wrong when I switch the headlamps because when they are off the voltage is good over 13 volts with the car on. I don t know what could cause such drain in the battery without blowing a fuse or something. What can I do? Thanks
  13. cessna

    93 lumina z34 AC problem

    ive got a 93 lumina with ac problems wont blow cold air, ac compressor seems to engage but secondary fan wont run when ac is engaged would that be a problem ? someone told me the fan should engage when ac is turned on or possible relay problem and therfore system wont run and cool .....any help with this trying to do what I can before taking to shop and getting screwed for something simple .
  14. Hi guys, I have a 97 cutlass supreme 3100 that cranks and starts but will not run for more than 10 seconds. The car starts up, idles high around 2k and drops off until it stalls quickly. The problem started a couple days ago when I was testing fuel pressure, to address a slight misfire, and a decent amount spilled out of the valve on the fuel rail and went on top of the cam sensor and leaked down to the 24x crank sensor. I replaced the cam sensor thinking that would solve the problem but it remains exactly the same. My understanding is the car should run but just poorly if it was the cam or 24x sensor. There are no other sensors in the area and the car ran ok before this. Could it be a problem with the pcm? If anybody has any ideas of what I should look into it would be appreciated. - John
  15. GP1138

    2015 June Meet Voting Thread

    Let's get the June meet set up! This is the voting thread for the date, but I want to see some discussion on location as well. I have no problem setting it up in Toledo again, I'll just call our normal RRI and set up the reservation, but I'm not opposed to any other location. If I don't see consensus on one location, I'll just set it up in Toledo again. Please VOTE FOR A DATE. The weekend with the most votes will win. I'll put a week deadline on this vote -- please vote by WEDNESDAY, MARCH 18. Edit: I decided to make it simple and not multiple choice so we get more of a definitive answer, I was just retarded and forgot to remove that text from the OP.
  16. John M

    Bad idle fixed 3.4

    I looked for the post I made asking for help on this issue ,but cannot find. The '95 Cutty would 'cam' at start up, (idle would bounce up to 3000+ and down low and would stall). Cold made this worse. Once engine warmed up problem went away. My mech found a vaccuum leak under the intake/plenum. I did not see the part, it was a special grommet under the top of the motor. It took days for the part to come in (rare?) My mech considers the 3.4 a rare engine, I don't. So not sure if the grommet fixed the problem or if taking it apart and putting it back together fixed it. It is fixed thankfully. Almost $600 though... Hope this helps someone else.
  17. Zeekiel Aussenseiter

    99 lumina p0440

    I picked this car up few months ago and got a evap leak malfunctioning code. I have already replaced gas cap and purge vent solenoid.I got the p0440 again.I noticed the rubber boots on the purge valve was letting air out. I changed then so there is no more gaping with smaller gauge rubber hose. Still waiting for my drivev cycle to complete. Any thoughts on what else could be the problem. And what is the drive cycle for evap system monitor contain me to do?
  18. GTPer

    GTP engine problems

    I have a 97 GTP that has had 3 different motors put in after the original started knocking. All the other three also started knocking but the second engine lasted a week, the other two not even a day. I don't know what the problem is. I don't believe all three engines were bad from the junkyard could they?. What could possibly be the problem? It's causing my mechanic too much work. And me too much waiting. I would really appreciate any feedback as to what the problem could be.
  19. Michael Savage

    California 2000 Alero Problem

    My cousin just rebuilt his 2000 Alero with the California EGR system, he removed it completely other than the normal system. Now it won't start, does he need a new computer without the California programing done to it? Or something else wrong? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  20. zjwflippers

    Interior lights come on when car shakes

    I"ve got a 97 GTP that I took to Vermont with me to go snowboarding yesterday, and the interior lights started coming on when I would hit a bump and turn off again when I would hit another bump. I eventually figured out that if I jerked the car to the right they would turn off (I'm not joking haha). Does anybody know what could be causing this? Earlier in the day I had been sitting in traffic for a good 30 minutes and the car overheated and the problem started occurring maybe 20 minutes after that, so I'm not sure if there'd be any relation there. Any help would be appreciated.
  21. Hello, I just bought an 04 GTP and of course 3 days later it now sputters VERY badly when pushed at full throttle, which I've done less than 10 times, but the 6 or so yesterday and today have got progressively worse. Seemingly zero problem at about 40% throttle and under, but if you floor it, it bogs down almost immediately. I was thinking fuel filter or cat, but since I'm new to these, I thought I'd ask a community of owners first! Thanks for your help and I hope to help others here one day once I get to know this car better.
  22. Don't let the title fool you, its not the simple pull off the wiper arm and re-positioning on the splines, been there and done that. On the 1994 Cutlass and probably other models there is a plastic wedge guide that allows for only one position, so I need to reposition these plastic guides. The problem is getting them off, an old thread I found BXX stated that these are also splined in and can be taken off but I am having a time figuring out how to do it without damaging the wiper linkage. That's why I haven't tried to yank them off like a bad tooth with some vice grips yet. There is also a fair bit of surface rust on everything under the shrouds and if its not to difficult I`d like to remove the linkage to deal with the rust. The manual makes it look easy but looking at the assembly in real life looks like a pain in the ass to get back in. Has anyone ever replaced that assembly in a 1st gen? I don't recall ever reading about that here.
  23. nystargazer

    engine missfires when warm

    i have a 98 olds intrigue with a 3800 when the motor warms up it starts to missfire also the low coolant light comes on but the coolant is full anybody know what the problem is?
  24. Hi. Today I started bleeding the brakes with my brother-in-law, after installing these days a new precharged accumulator. Started like its described in the haynes repair manual at the right front brake - all good. Then started bleeding on the right front brake. ( regularly checked the fluid level) But after approximately 15 minutes of bleeding, there is still air in the hose ? What could that be !? Currently Im pretty frusted with the brake problem.
  25. rich_e777

    1994 4T60 delayed engagment?

    Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
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