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Found 615 results

  1. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  2. I was thinking about adding a trans kit to my 4t60e. Any big benefits?
  3. I literally just need a few small parts to have 100% everything I need to do August's 5 speed swap. I need: clutch fluid reservoir, preferable with hose, but I can take care of that. Rubber grommets to go on the firewall plus the metal retaining ring, this is for 282. the grommets for a 284 are probably not compatible due to the larger shift and select cable sizes. I'll have to 100% verify that. 284 retaining ring is the same part. let me know how much shipped to 16001 Thanks -Chris
  4. Hey guys I was bored at work and was cruising the forums and and found in the section for the TGP a Shift kit XK1 for $30.79 is the part# listed. Now is this shift kit specific to the transmission family or is it a generic kit? That is the question that needs to be answered. also they have a really nice Rebuild kit for it, 753034 Is called a super kit $399.79 Does it have the extra clutch plate that is needed? Not sure I might have to email them and find out. I am just throwing this out there. Input on anyone that has used Rockauto for stuff like this let everyone know. I bought the Transmission Governor and it was the correct one so far so good there.
  5. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  6. I have a floor shift column with destroyed shaft bearing and i also have a column shift column that is mint. Both are from 97 monte carlos. My question is can i use the column shift column to fix the floor shift column? Thanks
  7. So I need to replace the transmission in my GP. It's a '94 SE 3100 v6 w/ the 4t60e. I'm assuming i can use any 4t60e from any W body from '94-'95 as long as it is equipped with the 3100 v6. I could be wrong about that though? What are some things I should look for in a junkyard transmission, other than low(ish) miles. I was going to drop the pan in any trans I deem may be suitable for my car to look for excessive clutch material or any abnormalities (burnt fluid, chunks of metal, etc). I was also going to replace all shift solenoids for added insurance. Thanks in advance guys!
  8. First, can a Mod please move this to the FAQ section. Thanks. For anyone that has a 5speed W-body, we all know about the situation with shift cables. They are hard to come by and condition is unknown. Well fortunately, if your looking for one, your problem has been solved. This is the cable that I had in the group buy: This cable is rated for 215lbs push and 620lbs pull. The length is the same as the stock cable. It is physically bigger around than the stock cable, so you will have to modify the body grommets for this to fit. Now how do you get one? You will need to contact this company: Here is a list of their locations with contact information to see which is closest to your location: Now that you know where to look, heres the info youll need to tell them. The part number for this cable is: 173-M-TT-2-59.75 Here is the e-mail from 01/08/2013 Since this was from 01/08/2013, expect prices to go up. Now the good thing about this cable is the end hiem joints can be changed. Shift cable for a 282/284, select cable for 282/284. If you have a different platform car, the last number ( 59.75" ) is the cable length. The J,N, etc platform cars use a shorter cable. Just measure your cable and give them that measurement instead of the 59.75" Now the bad part about this cable, since it is adjustable, youll need to mess with the adjustment, to make the shifts perfect/make it go into all the gears all the way. This will take a little time. Also, the end hiem joints are not perfect and might need some working with to make them fit. Everybody with a 282/284 equiped W-body, no need to worry about old shift cables. This will be the last one you buy. If anyone has any questions or wants more information, PM me. -Jason
  9. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the shift lever slightly passed its seat will activate them. Issue within the last few weeks. Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  10. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  11. Boss got an 06 caddy cts 3.6, 6-speed the other day that hes thinking on parting out. Needs an engine, has passkey issues etc etc. Looks showroom fresh. What parts can I use? Any of the clutch related components compatable with an f40 or a 284? Already planning on snagging the shift knob, boot, and center console
  12. 94 3.4L DOHC, the Cannister Purge vacuum plastic line drops behind the engine and goes to a hose that goes under the vacuum booster. It's got a burned crispy spot from where it appears to have been resting either on the exhaust manifold or O2 sensor and it also touches the transaxle shift linkage. Doesn't really look like that's how this hose is supposed to be routed. I've zip-tied it to the evaporator pipes to get it away from the exhaust and gearshift linkage, but was just wondering if anyone knows how it's supposed to be routed and if you happen to have pics?
  13. Alright, so I had this problem last year but it went away after it got warm and I forgot about it until now that the problem came back. When it's cold outside it's relatively hard to shift the car. As in, the lever is hard to move. It feels like something is binding or something. If the car has been in the warm garage over night it's fine, but after sitting outside for a while it's hard to shift again. I'm assuming something needs to be lubed. Just wondered if anyone has any ideas what though? Something in the column I'm guessing?
  14. :dunno: I just got my Cutlass last month & it has a few issues. Hope I can solve them here. My tranny don't shift into OD anymore. It did, for about 3 weeks it did fine. I did a complete tune up today. When i'm driving in OD it stays in 3rd. when I let off the gas it just acts like it's in neutral, There is a whining noise, Sounds like it could be coming from the TC. Any help will be Greatly Appreciated!
  15. I tried to search first, but it wasn't that helpful. Anyways, I've got a 4T60E that, when cold, doesn't like to shift from 2nd to 3rd. When manually placed in those gears, there is still some hesitation, and when it warms up, the problem becomes less frequent. The transmission was rebuilt at 172,000, and currently has around 114,000 on it after the does not throw any codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated, is this might determine the fate of its outcome...(daily driver to parked).
  16. My sister has a 1994 Olds Cutlass 3.1. The transmission will not go into reverse or shift out of first gear. Checked the trans fluid. Level is fine at op temp. Color is brown.
  17. This morning I took my Regal out. It's a 96 coupe with approx. 67K on it. A couple of miles from the house it started loosing power and stumbling. So I did a U turn and headed home. On the way home I noticed that it would act like it wanted to shift hesitate and not shift, then do it again, and again ,and again. It would finally shifted at approx. 5k. And took forever for it to get there. When I got home I pulled the plug wires off of the coilpacks and noticed the bottom tower on the second and third coil was really corroded badly. I cleaned them up the best I can and took it for another drive. It ran good for the first 1/4-1/2 mile. Then it started the same thing. I'm going to replace the coilpacks and wires. Is this the shifting problem also? Or is the shifting problem the big problem and I found the bad coils in the process? And they are two separate problems? Thanks
  18. Hey all, I apologize if this has been posted beforehand. I have my 98 Chevy Lumina 3.8L vehicle. The question is simply this: Whenever I turn the A/C on the engine makes a higher pitch whine that also changes with the speed of the engine. - It's not a squealing noise from a loose or contaminated belt. - I've checked the tensioner and it seems to be tight enough. - As stated above the whine is throughout the entire rpm range except for maybe the last 500-700rpm just before the shift, then the engine sounds more like it does when the A/C is off and accelerating. Which sounds like it may be a vacuum issue. Or possibly something else. I realize that the engine noise changes slightly because of the A/C strain on the system, but it does seem to be higher than it normally should be. If someone could help point me in the right direction in determining the source of the sound from the A/C being turned on that would be great! If more if is needed please let me know.
  19. 1990 cutlass ME9: transaxle, auto 4 spd, THM 440, T4 driving along slips hard shift into 3rd followed by no 3rd. Car just revs like crazy. If i put it in first and second it works fine but if i put the selector in d or od it just doesnt go. I have a new filter and gasket i was going to put in. Any ideas? This is the stock trans rebuilt about 44k ago. i was going to look at a 91 international two door guess not now.
  20. So this morning my TGP caught fire. The Hydac accumulator doesn't thread far enough into the PMIII housing to hold it well enough under pressure. I installed the accumulator about 4-5 months ago or so. I heard a loud thump this morning as it finally blew off the housing. It hit the crossover, leaving a decent dent in it, and landed on the trans shift linkage. The resulting brake fluid leak caught fire on the down pipe. I could not get the fire out, and by the time the fire department got there, it was too late to save it. I removed the freshly rebuilt turbo this afternoon. It seems to be unaffected by the fire. The engine and trans also seem to be largely ok. I will hook my spare harness to it this week and make sure it runs before I pull it out, along with the rear suspension. That's about all that can be saved. Sad Day. .
  21. Alright, I'm stumped. The Lumina has been making a clunking noise when I shift into reverse. Well, not when I shift, but once I start to move after shifting. It only does it after I shift into reverse, and I can get it to do with with my foot on the brake and pressing the accelerator as well. It drives fine, shifts fine and smooth, and makes no noise whatsoever when shifting as I'm driving. It's only one clunk after it starts to move in gear. The motor mount is only a couple years old, the CV axle was just replaced, as was the trans mount. The dog bone mounts are original, but the noise seems to be coming from the trans itself. You can tell the noise is coming from the drivers side. Anyone have any other ideas or things I should look for?
  22. So instead of hijacking that other thread, I'll be making my own. I've been having this issue for the longest of time, I think as far back as the LIMG issue I had. So usually, I'll start the car, and drive. IF I wait for the engine to heat up to 150ish, and jump on the high way, I usually have a minute of 4th gear before being kicked back down. The most I've been able to drive the car on 4th gear is 4 hours, and I notice this issue gets worse in the summer than in the winter. So naturally since discovering tunerpro, I check the PCM to see what the computer is doing. That's when my suspicions were confirmed. The PCM is not recognizing 4th gear and will drive up to 3rd gear only. I usually notice if I drive around the city, I can get the car to go into 4th gear in the speed it normally would (40-45) but I can't maintain it past 50mph. I've then come to realize that there's 2 codes that get stored but never trigger the SES light. Those 2 codes are: P0740 TCC and P0755 SSB. At a certain point, I was storing the code for the neutral safety switch, but hasn't been a problem since I replaced it. P0755 has come up fairly recent, but there are times where I trigger P0740 to be stored in the computer. None of the trans codes force the light on so that's the interesting part. At this point, I'm considering the TCC solenoid and the 3-4 Shift Solenoid are failing at the least and I may have to swap the torque converter at the most. So with that being said, where should I go from here?
  23. 03monteSS

    4t65e woes

    So where to begin. I have a 2003 Monte Carlo SS (L36 3800 Series 2) which has just recently started giving me issues. There are about 167,000 miles on the car. I am getting code P1811 (max adapt, long shift). Previously, on very rare occasions the car had kicked like a mule coming out of first gear when hot. After doing some research I ordered a whole new set of solenoids (1-2, 2-3, EPC and TCC) because from what I can gather that is the most common cause of this. I fear that I may have waited too long though because recently I ran into a more severe problem. While driving on the highway I had a very harsh/long upshift from 2nd to 3rd gear. I heard an audible click as the transmission engaged into third gear, and the check engine light started flashing and then went out. Also at this time I got a whiff of something that smelled like rotten eggs. After this happened I got off the hwy asap and the car was sluggish downshifting as well. Since this happened I have parked the car. Also I checked the transmission fluid, it is clean and not burnt. I soon plan to be dropping the pan to check for any pieces. If I'm lucky I got away without breaking anything. My plan of attack so far, assuming I don't have large chunks of metal/clutch in my pan is going to be to replace the solenoids and see how it works after that. What I am wondering specifically is are there any tests I can do short of driving the vehicle (I really don't want to do that right now and risk further damaging the transmission) to see whether anything has physically failed inside the transmission? At this point I really don't have the money to spend on rebuilding the transmission in this car, and I'm on the fence as to weather I should attempt one of the accumulator shift-kits in hope of fixing this problem.
  24. Hey guys its been a long time. I have a question on some of the shift kits I found and want some input you guys. So I found for the 4t65e tranny was the thrasher, trans go, and the ZZP. I not sure on which i should get so I did a bit of research and found that the trans go, and the thrasher shift kits are both the spring type and the ZZP is a valve type (not to sure what to call it). So seeing that i was thinking if or will it be ok to run the thrasher or trans go with the ZZP. And if not a good idea which would be the better one to go with.. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  25. Imp558

    OBD-II Tuning

    Does anybody know how to log shift points with HPT VCM Scanner? Or better yet have a config file that does so?
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