UA-65274002-1 Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'coolant'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Site Related
    • Announcements and News
    • New Member Introductions
  • General W-Body Discussion
    • FAQs and Technical Information
    • General
    • Powertrain
    • PCM Tuning
    • Brakes/Suspension/Steering/Wheels/Tires
    • Car Audio
    • Appearance/Car Care
    • Member's Rides
    • Events
  • Specialty Forums
    • Turbo Grand Prix
    • Cutlass Supreme Convertible
  • Classifieds
    • W-body For Sale/Trade
    • W-body Wanted
    • Links and deals
    • W-body Auction Watch
    • Other For Sale or Trade / Wanted

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL











Found 962 results

  1. I've been losing a small amount of coolant the past few days. Before I left for work this morning, got out the flashlight, and began looking for leaks. Sure enough, I found coolant on top of the distributor stub. It's been less than 3,000 miles since I replaced the LIM because of this very thing...the surfaces were so clean, you could have eaten off of them, and I used Fel-Pro gaskets, and very carefully confirmed that the torque applied to the fasteners was done correctly... What could have gone wrong?
  2. Need a new coolant tank, or a way to clean the one I have. Can find new tanks for older model Cutlass and later model Cutlass, but I can not find a new one for a 92 Cutlass Supreme. All I can find is tank caps. It's so dirty and stained, that I can only see the coolant level on the full hot mark. Is it worth even trying to clean it, and what is the best way to do it? If it can be cleaned, I will for dang sure put work into it to save a dollar. Edit: Should have put this topic in General I think.
  3. Hello all! I have a problem that I am hoping some of you can give me some insight on. Also I hope this is in the correct forum, I wasn't sure if it was supposed to be the powertrain or the general.. Anywho... I have a 1993 Grand Prix 3.1, and today it decided to increase pressure in the coolant system, and caused a small leak in the upper radiator hose, and the metal coolant rail from the water pump to (not sure where). We pulled up, I opened the hood and found them spraying bad and causing smoke. I understand that I will have to replace both, but my question is this, why did they BOTH go at the same time? I think I have it narrowed down to a plugged radiator or a bad water pump (though I could be completely wrong. Anywho, let the engine cool after finding the leak, I replaced the thermostat really quick and topped off the coolant, and turned it over. I opened the upper radiator hose air valve and nothing came out. Waited, revved the engine, nothing came out. So I squeezed the hose, held it, and closed the air release in hopes to help. Re-opened, again nothing happened. Opened the radiator cap while running (yes I know I am incredibly stupid for doing this), and it looked low, so I added coolant, took a few drops (almost literally) and closed it up. Waited, still nothing from the air release in the upper hose. Tried squeezing upper and lower hoses, and nothing happened, didn't look like the water even moved, can normally see it in the coolant reservoir and hose, but nothing this time. I ended up turning the car off and calling it some colorful names before I gave up and went inside. Before this I had the issue of it randomly overheating, one day it would be fine idling, or sitting in a drive-thru, the next day it would begin to overheat in a drive-thru. I replaced both relays for the dual cooling fans thinking that was a good place to start. Didn't help, I picked up the thermostat to try, and then all of this happened. It is worth noting the temperature never got over 240 degrees (according to the gauge cluster anyway), and usually runs about 200 or less even under high load. I am so lost at this point, the only thing I could think of was a clogged radiator which would stop coolant from moving, or a bad water pump which didn't move the water. I'm fairly desperate too since my Wife starts a new job Tuesday and this is our only vehicle. Tomorrow I think the plan is a new water pump ($20) to see if that works, and the new upper radiator hose (unless you guys say differently) I cannot find a parts store that has the metal line, and no one knows what it is called either. If you know the part I would appreciate the name, but would rather have figuring out the pressure issue first..
  4. Someone put a video on Youtube concerning changing the front struts on a W-body. First one I've seen so far, and fairly well done. Only comment I'd make is that I personally used a bit of silicone grease to make the upper mount go back in properly. And not really sure if its necessary to drain the oil off. The theory presented, that leaving some oil to act as a coolant, is an interesting one (although not sure if its true!). If anyone has any doubts as to how easy the fronts are to change, watch that video, and any doubts should quickly dissipate.
  5. Been looking for a new old stock coolant reservoir for a good while now, and I am unable to find one. I can find new tanks for older cars and newer ones, but none for mine. Been searching Ebay for weeks now with no luck. I would rather have a new one, but I will buy a used one just as long as there is a good view of the coolant level. The GM part number for the tank is 10239079. That part number fits Regal 91 through 93(3.1 only not sure), Cutlass Supreme 91 through 93, Pontiac Grand Prix 91 through 93, and Chevrolet Lumina 91 through 93. If you have a used one that is in good shape, or know where I could get a new one, then please let me know. Thanks
  6. Yeah one more cooling fan thread, but I couldn't find the answers by reading through the old ones. A few weeks ago I noticed the Cutlass would get hot while stuck in traffic and I had assumed it was the design of the water pump impeller being inferior, but its actually my fans that are not activating at the right temperature. I have confirmed power at the relay and also purchased a new one just in case. I have jumped the fans off the battery and they also activate when full AC is on I have changed the coolant temperature sensor on the thermostat housing. They still do not come on normally, Is there something I`m missing or forgot to check and can anyone point me in the direction of what to try next? This is on the 1994 Cutlass 3100
  7. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hello Everyone! It has been a long time since I have posted on this forum. I was unemployed for at least 4 months, and during the first month of unemployment I overheated the Chevy Lumina, and I had it towed home to prevent further damage. I bought a second vehicle as the new job was going to have a longer commute time. The Lumina has sat in the garage, and I have wondered if it was worth to fix, or send it to the junk yard. I decided to keep it, and learn from what I did wrong, and so the adventure has been fun. I have removed the heads, and had them checked, cleaned and surfaced. The Lower Intake manifold gaskets were completely blown. I noticed the lower intake manifold had pitting around the coolant jackets, and I bought another one from a yard to prevent possible failure when I put everything back together. While I have the motor torn completely down. I am wanting to know how to remove the oil pan, and replace the gasket. I have read some people have suggested pulling the motor out. I am optimistic as I have read someone managed to tilt the pan in order to remove it. I have pulled the 10MM bolts that are around the pan, but still finding a way to get at the bolts on the side of the pan. The pan sits on the mount. I am looking for suggestions on the best way to continue forward to remove it. Does anyone have a write up? I have removed the A/C compressor, the Starter, the transmission bracket, Starter Fly-Wheel Cover, oil-filter windage tray, and the passenger side motor mount is un bolted. Pictures to follow soon.
  9. i have a 98 olds intrigue with a 3800 when the motor warms up it starts to missfire also the low coolant light comes on but the coolant is full anybody know what the problem is?
  10. Hello everyone, I am having a very small coolant leak from the bypass pipe that runs from under the throttle body to the top of the water pump housing. It is leaking from the connection where the heat hose assembly connects to it just above the water pump housing. I have had to replace the gasket that connects this pipe to the water pump housing before and it was no issue. I was wondering if anyone has any information of where I can find this pipe. I have look all over, and have been unsuccessful. Its for a 89 Grand Prix with the 2.8L.
  11. So guys I have had a minor coolant leak but today it got really bad I filled up the radiator and overfill tank then drove around for about 30 minutes all that time there was coolant dripping leaving huge puddles in the places where I stopped I parked it and turned it off and there was a hiss near the thermostat and coolant leaking off the bottom of the car seeming like it was comming from the back of the engine there is also NO indication of oil and coolant mixing. Do you Guys have any ideas? GM 3.1 V-6 58,000 miles
  12. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  13. my daughters 93 Grand Prix is overheating. The fans will not cut on at all. I have run it in my driveway until at the red and no fans. When I cut the AC on the fans will not come on either. Even if I put AC at max and blower on high no fans. I can jumper them and they will come on so the fans are good. Could this be the temp sending unit? Also her blower motor has stopped working as well. Putting the blower motor on high does nothing, the blower does not blow any air. Could this be why the coolant fans are not coming on when I put the AC on max and the blower motor on high? Just throwing that out there. Any ideas appreciated.
  14. I'm using the term "HACK" as a parlance of our times, as in "LIFEHACK." This is a little trick I stumbled upon whilst flushing the coolant on my Impala. I purchased a Prestone Flush & Fill Kit and cut the heater hose that connects to the coolant pipe running to the top of the water pump housing. I then installed the garden hose tap across the breach in the heater hose. After flushing out the old coolant, I used the newly installed heater hose tap to fill the back side of the motor. I found that this drastically cuts down on the amount of bleeding that needs to be done when refilling the cooling system. Instead of filling the radiator and waiting for the thermostat to open, then refilling the radiator and bleeding both bleeders over and over and over again, adding coolant through the heater hose tap gets you "7/8ths" of the way full. Give it a try, it'll definitely save you time, and frustration!!!
  15. I have a 1997 Cutlass Supreme that gets too hot when idling after the car has been driven. The temp gauge stays on the line during highway driving and if it starts to overheat in traffic it cools down once moving again. The problem seems to be the radiator fans do not come on when they should but occasionally they will come on and one always comes on when I put the A/C on. Also the fan motors are brand new and this problem existed before I changed them. Any ideas what would cause this? The only thing I can think of is the coolant temp sensor is not reading correctly. Thanks for the help!
  16. I've got a 2008 base Buick LaCrosse with a 3800 Series III V6 and under 50,000 miles. I got an oil change last week. The next day, the check engine light went on. I was wondering what they might have messed with at the dealership that possibly loosened a connection or knocked out a sensor. It was purely a coincidence. I went to an auto parts store. They scanned it with the OBD II device as a courtesy and it kicked out code p0128. This means "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." I was thinking that, most likely, I would be replacing the ECT sensor (not an expensive sensor) or the thermostat was stuck open. Tonight, when I drove off, the checking engine light went off. And it has stayed off. When the light went on, we had had a cold snap. Today, it was about 20 degrees F warmer outside. I'm wondering if this had anything to do with it and if I can ignore the issue. What do you think? Have you had check engine lights that came off and then sort of went away? Also, have you heard of this particular issue and could it have been caused a big drop in the temperature outside?
  17. For the longest time I've kept getting a code 39- clutch switch. I've replaced the switch with a brand new one, and the wiring is good. Why does this keep popping up? And is there a way to possibly disable that code so that it never pops up again? Also, the low coolant light kept flashing at me today while I was driving. The fluid level is fine, which makes me think the sensor is bad? Is that a fair guess?
  18. kissmyss

    Coolant Elbows

    My alternator tensioner started getting weak, so I replaced it with one I purchased from ZZP. When I purchased the tensioner, I also purchased the coolant elbows from ZZP. I went on a road trip, when I returned I noticed coolant leaking on the ground and the leak was coming from the elbows. I didn't think I would have to change the O rings these before installation, I thought it only applied to the Doorman elbows. Luckily no damage occurred from the lack of coolant. I upgraded to the Doorman aluminum elbows and yes I replaced the O rings before installation. ZZP elbows after removal, notice how the O rings are compressed flat. Here are the aluminum elbows that were installed and a picture of one that was installed. I couldn't get a clear picture the other one. I also replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses. Getting to the lower hose clamps wasn't easy, but I got it done and now all is as it should be.
  19. I've searched the forum for an answer to my specific question, but couldn't find an answer, so here's my situation/question: I'm reassembling the top end on my 97' Olds GM 3100 V6, after being determined to replace ALL gaskets (timing cover, LIM, UIM, oil drive, etc) to prevent oil/coolant leaks. The quick disconnect pipe fitting that threads into the back side of the thermostat housing had a plastic fitting inside of it, and like others here on the list, when I removed the metal pipe from it at disassembly, the internal plastic parts came out in pieces. I pulled the pipe out, cleaned off the end of it, and set it aside for reassembly. I purchased a new pipe fitting that has all the new plastic internals, but here lies my question: How do I go about installing the pipe back into the fitting? Do I need to remove the quick disconnect plastic piece from the new fitting, slide it onto the end of my pipe, and then try to insert the pipe and plastic piece back into the metal it as simple as leaving the plastic quick disconnect sleeve in the metal pipe fitting and pushing the heater pipe into it until it clicks or something? I can't find anything that says how to specifically reassemble this. A second question I need to put some sort of RTV on the end of the pipe before I try to reinstall it, or is there an internal o'ring (like mentioned in other posts) that will automatically seal once the pipe is installed? I want to do this right and only once! Thanks in advance!
  20. --- coolant temp sensor 3 wire, same goes right to hot, pegs out temp gauge, within seconds for starting, 3 wire senor is new and ohms fine looking for eng wire diagram 3.1L J code eng 2003 GP
  21. Hello. New to the forums here.... i have a 2000 Pontiac boneville ssei with about 160k miles on it. Last week water pump went out. Changed that and also changed the famous plastic elbows that go to the intake. After I changed it something happened and I never had heat inside the car. Drove it for about 15 minutes before I Relized that. Went home and shut car off. It never read that it overheated on the gauges..... Once I shut car off I could hear it boiling in the radiator. Long story short the next day when I checked oil it had coolant in it and I could tell something was wrong because when I went to go drive it and see if I had heat, the car was missing... Which was clearly my plugs fouled out. So today I started tearing into the motor. I'm a first timer on this and just took it slow and took pictures. I have a few questions. Once I got to the lower intake it looked like it was slightly cracked , the gasket that is, and I wasn't sure if that was culprit or not. Also where the coolant passes into the head was full of a red sludge and the thermostat was a sligt color of red. Not sure what this build up is inside there. Anyways I already got this far I figured I better keep going and to be on safe side check the head gaskets. I tore the front head off and the valve cover on the edges inside I could see white where coolant n oil were mixed but the rockers and everything were just normal black oil looking.... Once I got the head off the two right side cylanders were full of coolant on the top. The first once was just clean an nothing in it. I just wanna make sure that nothing else could be bad. I am going to change head gaskets and all other gaskets hen I put it back together. Any and all ideas are greatly appreciated. Also before I tore it apart the car was smoking pretty bad and I could clearly smell antifreeze coming out of exhaust. I will try to post some pictures I took along the way. Thanks everyone
  22. OK, need help. I need to lay this out and get feedback as proof both of these garages are idiots, so here it goes, the complete story. 94 3.4. May 2013, broke serpentine belt, towed to garage. Replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, pulleys. Was told I had head gasket problems. Was leaking coolant somewhere when I picked up my car. Drove car to another garage, asked for pressure test to confirm. I was told there was a broken inlet valve on the bottom of the radiator, no way a pressure test could have been done on it to get to I had a bad head gasket. Took back to first garage, demanded they put radiator in my car, they did, no further leaks, no overeating problems, nothing. Drove all summer 2013 in 100+ heat with a/c going most days, top up or down. No problems of any kind. Parked it end of October for the winter. February, needed to use it to go pick up a dining room table with my trailer (it's got a factory installed trailer hitch), warmed it up, turned on the heat, blew nothing but cold air, froze my butt off for the 8 mile round trip. Parked it again for the rest of the winter. Saved up the money to get the "supposedly" blown head gaskets and decided to go ahead and have timing belt replaced at same time since it had been about 50K miles since being replaced, took it back to the garage that did the initial work with the water pump, radiator, etc., on August 31st. After 4 weeks and a lot of delays, got my car back on September 29. All seemed well. Drove for exactly 2 weeks. Went out one Monday morning to start it to go visit my brother in the hospital, it died. Tried again, it died. Got out to raise hood, oil all over my garage floor. Called garage to come get it, told them it looked like they might not have put my oil filter on tight or something, they towed it back to their garage. Called me the next day and said the oil sending unit was leaking, and oh by the way, you have a water leak. apparently they had let me leave the garage the first time, with a bad hose and didn't bother to replace it or even tell me about. After another 2 weeks, they were going to bring my car to my home since I had no way to come get it. So, manager was driving it to me, got about a mile from the store, overheated. towed it back to their garage. After another 7-10 of trying to figure out what was wrong, asked me if they could have it towed to another garage to get "correctly" diagnosed. A couple of days later, I get a phone call stating that the 2nd garage determined my heads had cracks in them and apparently the machine shop either missed it or something, so they were going to buy new heads for my car at their expense and fix it. Another week goes by. Winter is here, I have no ride, so they rent me a car to drive saying my car would be ready in a few days. Another week goes by. The 2nd shop is now telling them, they apparently repaired my heads, after I was told I was getting new ones, and now the block has pin holes in it, it's had them for over 2 years, and it's all "my fault" and the first garage isn't responsible for fixing my car as now my "piece of junk" car (their words) needs a whole new engine at a cost of over $6000. Next thing I know, my car is sitting in their parking lot torn down, they won't put it back together as "they won't be held responsible for it" and my rental car is yanked from me. So I am back on foot, no car, and their claims department is trying to say that for 2 years, my car has had pin holes in the block, can't be repaired, and they aren't going to do anything about it. Called today to find out when someone is going to put my car back together, waiting to hear that now. So, I need some professional opinions. Here is what I think. First garage that told me I needed head gaskets, replaced gaskets, let my car leave with a bad water hose, sent car to garage they have a "relationship" with (they send business back and forth), who are telling them I have been knowing driving my car for 2 years with a bad block, which is a lie. They repaired my heads apparently, put my car back together, guess what, still got hot I guess, so now instead of them standing behind that they told the first garage, the heads had cracks, now it's the engine block has pin holes and they aren't touching it again. Thoughts? And I guess I am going to have to sue them to get something done.
  23. aaaaamartin

    ECM Trouble

    Hi everyone, newbie, first post to the forum. there is very odd things going on with the car's electronics lately. It's a Regal 1990 3.1MPFI 2-Door Limited using the underhood 1227727 ECM. With ignition on, engine off the SES and Low Coolant light both show a nervous flicker. They are supposed to be steady on, but they do flicker 5 out of 10 times, and sometimes the are both of completely. Sometimes coolant light is off, ses light is on and #1 fan engages. (Limb home???) Any ideas what this could be? Thnaks in advance Martin
  24. I have had my convertible sitting in the garage for the past few weeks. I noticed a few drops of oil and alittle coolant to the side of the oil. Dumb question is there a sealant I can add to the engine to keep it from leaking?
  25. Light is on all the time . I have 1994 cutlass quad 4. Where is the sensor? does anyone know part #?
  • Create New...