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Found 955 results

  1. This has been mentioned but never really discussed. A straight answer hasn't really been provided. I'm writing this for my Jaguar, but I think it has plenty of merit with our cars as well since many people install transmission coolers. There are 3 possible scenarios here. 1. Use the built-in transmission cooler in the radiator 2. Route the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, to the aux trans cooler, and back to the trans 3. Bypass the radiator and go straight to the aux trans cooler Obviously, we know that our transmissions heat up to the point where the stock radiator is not enough to cool them. Buck reported that under heavy driving, his 05 GTP's 4T65E-HD would hit 260 degrees F. We also know that heat kills transmissions, and that temperature is rather high. Therefore, it can be assumed that the stock radiator is insufficient in cooling the transmission. This is primarily because it cannot cool the transmission below what the temperature of the radiator is, which during a typical summer day will sit nicely around 190 degrees F. IIRC, our w-bodies won't switch on the primary fan until the temperature reaches 235 degrees F. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The transmission will only get hotter than that. If one routes the transmission cooler lines through the radiator and then to the aux trans cooler, the radiator does some slight bit of cooling, and the transmission cooler does the bulk of the cooling thereafter. In my experiences, with a large transmission cooler flush mounted to the condenser, the engine could be running at even 220 degrees F, and the transmission will stay steady at 190 degrees, so the cooler is obviously making a big difference. Obviously its less than ideal to flush mount the transmission cooler, and I'm working on that. My concern with this approach is that the transmission can potentially be cooler using only the aux transmission cooler, which brings me to my next point. How cold is too cold? I've read that someone called valvoline to ask them that question, and the response was flat out "30 degrees F." I'm not sure how much validity there is to that claim, since I've also heard from around here that you can run a transmission too cold. Well how cold is too cold? I don't want to hear guesses here, but rather constructive feedback. Would it be detrimental to bypass the radiator entirely and have the aux trans cooler take care of all of the cooling? Has anyone done this and reported back on their temperature readings in different conditions? Another thing to consider with this approach is that the car itself will run cooler as a result of not having the heat of the transmission lines going through it. In regard to the aux trans cooler, I'm referring heavy duty coolers in the $50-$60 range, built for RV's.
  2. Ok so i picked up my 2000 GTP with doing mostly local driving i did not notice tell recently that my 4th gear is no there. So i have had two thoughts 1st beang to pull the trans out of my 2002 gtp and swap into my 2000. Or 2nd is rebuild the 4th gear without pulling the trans completly out. This being said i am not sure which option is better, so i am wondering if anyone has a parts list of what i will need to get to rebuild the 4th gear in my 2000. Any Info would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Guys
  3. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  4. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  5. Hey guys new to the forum. I have a 92 four door 3.1 lumina cream puff's pretty solid but the trans seems to not step down when slowing down. Hard for me to explain but let say I'm driving 40 mph then come up to a stop sign ect. After I stop its like in neutral...if I press the gas hard enough it will kinda slam into gear. Or if I'm driving and come up to a stop sign ect stop manually put it into netural then to drive works every time. Just extremely annoying.
  6. Hello y'all. I'm not sure who will read this because I am still trying to figure out how to use W-Body as I am new to the whole thing. But I'm going to ask on here if anyone knows about transmission coolers... The ones that are itty bitty and suppisably cools the tranny so hear related failure will not occur. I got a 92 Cutlass Supreme 3.1 btw. Any help would be much appreciated
  7. Must Sell Price reduced to 5500.00 OBO. Selling for what I have in it. Hi all. I am listing this to see if there is any interest. It's a 1991 Grand Prix GTP with 5 speed manual transmission. 66 Thousand miles. Blue with gray cloth interior. Sun roof, HUD, Power windows and Locks. I am in Pa. I will post pictures as soon as I can.
  8. Hey guys I was bored at work and was cruising the forums and and found in the section for the TGP a Shift kit XK1 for $30.79 is the part# listed. Now is this shift kit specific to the transmission family or is it a generic kit? That is the question that needs to be answered. also they have a really nice Rebuild kit for it, 753034 Is called a super kit $399.79 Does it have the extra clutch plate that is needed? Not sure I might have to email them and find out. I am just throwing this out there. Input on anyone that has used Rockauto for stuff like this let everyone know. I bought the Transmission Governor and it was the correct one so far so good there.
  9. COMPLETE FOR PARTS - 1993 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible $800.00 Complete Must be towed from Lancaster, PA I've owned the car since 2012, and have since put over $6,000 in parts and repairs: New Convertible Top in 2012 New Kenwood Stereo & Speakers in 2012 Trailer Hitch & Wiring in 2012 New Plugs & Wires in 2013 New Radiator, Thermostat & Hoses in 2013 New Control Module in 2014 New Michelin Tires in 2014 (30% current wear) New Battery in 2014 New Air Conditioning Compressor in 2014 New Ignition Switch & Cruise/Wiper Controls in 2014 New R/H Power Mirror in 2015 3.1 Liter V-6 runs strong and burns no oil. Transmission shifts smoothly. Car has 129k miles. A few minor dents. No rust. The car passed PA Inspection in May, 2015. An electrical short in the wiring harness initiated a contained fire at the inside fuse box, which is beyond my ability to repair. Otherwise, everything was working fine. I will provide a salvage title.
  10. I have a 94 GP 3100 4t60e. Is this model year trans able to use a 97 gasket, with the imbedded steel rather than just the cork? I'm guessing there was a slight design change in the trans gaskets?
  11. Heartbeat1991


    I am in the process of rebuilding Galen's TGP transmission. He had no 4th gear. After taking it apart, it's obvious why. The 4th gear clutch was all tore up. I never seen one like that before. But I don't have a lot of 4T60 experience either. The clutch material was gone. It was all metal to metal. The confusing part is that the clutch teeth were bent up pretty bad and the whole things seems to have been spinning in the outside of it's carrier. ( See pics ). I have yet to do much digging for parts. . .But, does anyone know if that clutch career is going to be ok to re-use? And what caused this? What else should I be looking for? It seems to me that something had to have been bound up to cause this. But I have no idea how.
  12. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  13. Hey guys, I found it long go, can't find it again. I'm looking for the torque specs for the transmission oil pan bolts for a '95 3.1 paired with a 4T60 in my Grand Prix. If there's some comprehensive resource with all of the torque specs for this combo, even better as I will likely need it in the future. The gasket has leaked since I got it a few years back and I'm finally tired of the driveway mess. I figured I'd replace the filter while I'm at it, it is as simple as drain pan, remove old filter, replace with new? Anything I need to look out for? TIA
  14. Hello Everyone! It has been a long time since I have posted on this forum. I was unemployed for at least 4 months, and during the first month of unemployment I overheated the Chevy Lumina, and I had it towed home to prevent further damage. I bought a second vehicle as the new job was going to have a longer commute time. The Lumina has sat in the garage, and I have wondered if it was worth to fix, or send it to the junk yard. I decided to keep it, and learn from what I did wrong, and so the adventure has been fun. I have removed the heads, and had them checked, cleaned and surfaced. The Lower Intake manifold gaskets were completely blown. I noticed the lower intake manifold had pitting around the coolant jackets, and I bought another one from a yard to prevent possible failure when I put everything back together. While I have the motor torn completely down. I am wanting to know how to remove the oil pan, and replace the gasket. I have read some people have suggested pulling the motor out. I am optimistic as I have read someone managed to tilt the pan in order to remove it. I have pulled the 10MM bolts that are around the pan, but still finding a way to get at the bolts on the side of the pan. The pan sits on the mount. I am looking for suggestions on the best way to continue forward to remove it. Does anyone have a write up? I have removed the A/C compressor, the Starter, the transmission bracket, Starter Fly-Wheel Cover, oil-filter windage tray, and the passenger side motor mount is un bolted. Pictures to follow soon.
  15. Gibby

    LQ1 drag car?

    Hello all, I recently lost my L67 drag car, it decided to implode at 7000 rpm. Before you ask me what I was thinking, it was fully balanced and had an SFI balancer on it... anyways it is toast. I found a straight, low mile grand prix with an LQ1. I was going to pick it up do as much weight reduction as I can and use it as a bracket racing car, 13.xx times would be cool, but the point is for it to be reliable and consistent. I guess my question is, am I crazy for wanting to do this? Will the LQ1 put up with the constant abuse if I keep up on maintenance?? With weight reduction, (all interior, and everything else I dont need) will the transmission hold up (automatic)? What are your thoughts?
  16. OK i hate FWD on cars, especially cars that are suppose to be RWD to begin with. So i want to change that in my 1994 Cutlass Supreme 3100. I would love to drop some serious muscle in it like a 455 out of an old firebird or a 454 out of a chevelle, but a 3.8 V6 with turbo or a supercharger would be awesome. So i need to find out if a W-body frame will support a rear end and possibly a transmission like in the corvette. Or can i pull the rear end and transmission off a S-10 or a camaro and it will be wide enough? Anybody have any ideas? Frame Diagrams for W-Body and G-Body and whatever kindof body they used for the 94 camaro(J-Body?) Mid Engine RWD sounds good to, whichever will be easier.
  17. would a 440-T4 from a lesabre t type be plug and play with my tgp? i thoughts are possible try and pick this transmission up for cheapish and beef it up to swap into the tgp. any info would be much appreciated! thanks in advance.
  18. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  19. pshojo

    VIN number help

    Can anyone tell me what the transmission gear ratio would be for 2G4WB52KXT1402287 ?
  20. Hi all. A friend of a friend needs her input shaft replaced, or so I gather. The car stopped accelerating on the highway, she pulled over, and the engine revs but the car won't move. She had it towed to the local stealership, and they told her "it needs a new pipe that connects the engine to the transmission" They want a pretty decent chunk of change to fix it. She has relayed a request for me to fix it for her cheaper. What's the consensus? What is easier/cheaper/better? New input shaft or just replace the entire trans?
  21. Finally found the source of the power steering leak on my '95 LQ1 Cutlass, it's definitely the pressure hose.. A couple of questions, I've searched the archives, and this looks like a fairly unpleasant job... 1. It looks like the combination of having an LQ1 and an automatic transmission makes this a tougher job..anyone found a good way to get to the fittings on the rack short of following the FSM, and dropping the subframe? I saw the recommendation of cutting the line, and using a socket, but it really doesn't look like I'd be able to get a 18mm socket and wrench on that without dropping the subframe.. 2. Would it make sense while I'm struggling to replace the pressure hose, to go ahead and replace the return hose at the same time? Any suggestions or tricks on how to best go about replacing these lines is very much appreciated...
  22. I am now the owner of a 93 olds, white, white top, and ruby red interior. The car was for sale on eBay needing a transmission, windshield, and top had a split. Emailed the guy and got a buy it now price of $1000. So I bought it and drove out to ft smith, Arkansas on Saturday. Car is really clean. Just needs a lot of lil things. I will be posting a wanted list here shortly. Pictures will be posted tomorrow. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  23. I have been gathering info on the 88-96 cars lately. Specifically the manual transmission cars, I know that they produced them but I have only seen a handful. So I'm wondering if anybody knows exactly what trims came manual and with what motors? They did an interior revamp in 94 or 95, did they continue the manual transmission after that? Ive also heard that some were getrag 284's as well as 282's, Was there specific models that designated what transmissions each car got? Im really just looking for info right now, and thought I might as well ask here first.
  24. I have a 2005 Grand Prix and I need to change the radiator. How can i remove the the transmission cooler lines??
  25. So I need to replace the transmission in my GP. It's a '94 SE 3100 v6 w/ the 4t60e. I'm assuming i can use any 4t60e from any W body from '94-'95 as long as it is equipped with the 3100 v6. I could be wrong about that though? What are some things I should look for in a junkyard transmission, other than low(ish) miles. I was going to drop the pan in any trans I deem may be suitable for my car to look for excessive clutch material or any abnormalities (burnt fluid, chunks of metal, etc). I was also going to replace all shift solenoids for added insurance. Thanks in advance guys!
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