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  1. I've decided that i'm going to do a junkyard thread and everytime I see something someone might be interested, i'm going to post on this. Also, feel free to put your stuff on this. I guess I figured i dont need a new thread everytime i go and find something. Thoughts? Any ways. I found Cutty International with HUD and burgandy interior. So, for those looking for HUD to match their interior, here it is. Brgandy HUD, and Switch and all brackets $40-45 plus shipping right/ passenger tail light $35 plus shipping
  2. This has been mentioned but never really discussed. A straight answer hasn't really been provided. I'm writing this for my Jaguar, but I think it has plenty of merit with our cars as well since many people install transmission coolers. There are 3 possible scenarios here. 1. Use the built-in transmission cooler in the radiator 2. Route the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, to the aux trans cooler, and back to the trans 3. Bypass the radiator and go straight to the aux trans cooler Obviously, we know that our transmissions heat up to the point where the stock radiator is not enough to cool them. Buck reported that under heavy driving, his 05 GTP's 4T65E-HD would hit 260 degrees F. We also know that heat kills transmissions, and that temperature is rather high. Therefore, it can be assumed that the stock radiator is insufficient in cooling the transmission. This is primarily because it cannot cool the transmission below what the temperature of the radiator is, which during a typical summer day will sit nicely around 190 degrees F. IIRC, our w-bodies won't switch on the primary fan until the temperature reaches 235 degrees F. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The transmission will only get hotter than that. If one routes the transmission cooler lines through the radiator and then to the aux trans cooler, the radiator does some slight bit of cooling, and the transmission cooler does the bulk of the cooling thereafter. In my experiences, with a large transmission cooler flush mounted to the condenser, the engine could be running at even 220 degrees F, and the transmission will stay steady at 190 degrees, so the cooler is obviously making a big difference. Obviously its less than ideal to flush mount the transmission cooler, and I'm working on that. My concern with this approach is that the transmission can potentially be cooler using only the aux transmission cooler, which brings me to my next point. How cold is too cold? I've read that someone called valvoline to ask them that question, and the response was flat out "30 degrees F." I'm not sure how much validity there is to that claim, since I've also heard from around here that you can run a transmission too cold. Well how cold is too cold? I don't want to hear guesses here, but rather constructive feedback. Would it be detrimental to bypass the radiator entirely and have the aux trans cooler take care of all of the cooling? Has anyone done this and reported back on their temperature readings in different conditions? Another thing to consider with this approach is that the car itself will run cooler as a result of not having the heat of the transmission lines going through it. In regard to the aux trans cooler, I'm referring heavy duty coolers in the $50-$60 range, built for RV's.
  3. I had been using a cassette adapter for my MP3 player like everyone else, but since it sounded so awful I wired it straight into the head. Still needed to have a cassette in there so that it would switch inputs, but then it started making this constant clicking sound and won't reverse or eject. Is there a way to get this thing out and make the clicking stop?
  4. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  5. Hello all, I still have my 1990 TGP, been driving it off and on but it mostly sits because PMIII has been acting up. I was wondering if there is still a place you can purchase any of these parts new? I would like to get a new pressure switch for it. If any of you have a good used one laying around I would take that off your hands as well though. I plan on also replacing all the relays on it. Motor is still good and so is accumulator. With my second Gen GTP blowing up the other day I am parting it out and might as well put all my efforts into this car. Thanks for any and all input!
  6. COMPLETE FOR PARTS - 1993 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible $800.00 Complete Must be towed from Lancaster, PA I've owned the car since 2012, and have since put over $6,000 in parts and repairs: New Convertible Top in 2012 New Kenwood Stereo & Speakers in 2012 Trailer Hitch & Wiring in 2012 New Plugs & Wires in 2013 New Radiator, Thermostat & Hoses in 2013 New Control Module in 2014 New Michelin Tires in 2014 (30% current wear) New Battery in 2014 New Air Conditioning Compressor in 2014 New Ignition Switch & Cruise/Wiper Controls in 2014 New R/H Power Mirror in 2015 3.1 Liter V-6 runs strong and burns no oil. Transmission shifts smoothly. Car has 129k miles. A few minor dents. No rust. The car passed PA Inspection in May, 2015. An electrical short in the wiring harness initiated a contained fire at the inside fuse box, which is beyond my ability to repair. Otherwise, everything was working fine. I will provide a salvage title.
  7. I have an oldsmobile cutlass supreme 94 3.4L v6. The problem is that when I turn on the low beam headlight the voltage meter goes down almost to 8 volts but the thing is that when I switch to the hig beam the voltage goes up and turning other things also makes voltage change but sometimes it goes down. So I think that the alternator was bad and I made this test. With the car turn off I switch the lights on and nothing happend the voltage was good about 10 volts but suddenly when I change to low beam voltage drops and lights and everything almost went of. So I turn off the lights and the voltage went up again. I ve tried this several times and sometimes it happens and sometimes not. I think theres something wrong when I switch the headlamps because when they are off the voltage is good over 13 volts with the car on. I don t know what could cause such drain in the battery without blowing a fuse or something. What can I do? Thanks
  8. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  9. Just replaced the Steering Wheel accessory switch 6 months ago, yesterday the Brake lights stopped working, Turn signals, and indicators on the cluster for them, brake light in back glass still works, fuses are all fine. before I switch it out again just wanting to verify more than likely it's a faulty switch, thanks ahead of time! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Can anyone tell me if a '94 3.4 LQ1 oil pressure/fuel pump switch will work with a '92 3.1, or if it even has one. Thanks, Steve.
  11. I want to wire my fog lights so that they not only come on with my headlights but can also be turned on when the headlights are off and off when the headlights are on. I'm assuming it'll require at least two relays but I'd like to only use one switch. A wiring diagram would be awesome but any help is appreciated.
  12. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  13. Help! I'm looking for a headlight switch for a 94 vert. Seems none are available everywhere I looked.
  14. I have some more dumb questions if you do not mind. I need to get a new switch for my convertible top (I believe this is my problem); Does GM sell them and how much?, I saw one on Ebay for around 99.00 (that sounds crazy, but could be wrong) ------ Can I get a generic switch to fit inside the console? ------ How hard is it to rebuild the switch I currently have in the car? (One side of the switch button works, just not the other side). Thanks for all the help!
  15. I have just in installed a new pump in my car. I drained the whole system and replaced it with clean ATF. As I would run the pump, I would push the down button on the switch and the top would raise to close. As I pushed The up bottom on the switch, the pump would do nothing. The top was down too begin with. So as I ran the pump and heard a gargling sound, then stop and add more ATF. So as I repeated those steps to get the top to close the top. It seemed the pump piece motor was working ok. Again I was pushing the down button too get the top to close. I had the car engine off and would push the up bottom on the switch but would not hear a thing. When I pushed the down button I heard the pump engage. I believe with my original pump I would have to push the up button on the switch several times until the pump would engage and when it did, it would close really really slowly and the fluid was at the right level in the resevoir. How can I and what electrical pieces do I need to test or replace to get my convertible back to working condition? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Do you want to update your dash of your 95-97 Cutlass? Check out what I found at They just came out with the Heater Control face overlay. I had them make the Console Shifter overlay for me. They will make any item you want. They did a very good job. The Headlight Switch is also a brand new product.
  17. Hi everyone. I have a '92 Cutlass Convertible. Late last year the battery began getting weak. After recharging a couple times, the battery finally wouldn't even hold a charge - that was late-January. The battery was almost five years old and had a useful life, so I bought a new one. No problems...until just a few days ago. I don't drive the Cutlass everyday as we have two other vehicles, so after a couple days of sitting, the car cranked slowly for a second before starting. Obviously, the new battery was getting weak! There are no obvious signs of a parasitic leak (no hood or truck light stuck on, no interior lights, etc.). I did a parasitic drain test today with my multimeter. At first, I was running around 1.50 amps. I disconnected the cables to the driver's side keyhole light and the seat belt connectors and it dropped to around .77 amps. Here's what's strange: opening and closing the door would give me different readings. Sometimes it was around .77 amps, then other times it was around .01 amps. I figured the switch in the door jamb might be bad, so I cleaned it up real good. Still, I'm getting around .75 amps most of the time, but sometimes .01 amps, changing as I open and close the door. Do you think the door jamb switch is bad? There doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong if it's clean - it's a simple switch. Any other ideas on what's causing the intermittent drain? If I pull the ELEC and CTSY fuses, I get .01 amps all the time. Thanks.
  18. hey guys just thought i would say hi here. i am having trouble with my 96 buick regal custom 3.1. i just replaced the multifunction switch and the flasher everything works but the left blinker. the front left works when the hazards are on and the back doesn't work at all except the brake lights. any advice would be great.
  19. For the longest time I've kept getting a code 39- clutch switch. I've replaced the switch with a brand new one, and the wiring is good. Why does this keep popping up? And is there a way to possibly disable that code so that it never pops up again? Also, the low coolant light kept flashing at me today while I was driving. The fluid level is fine, which makes me think the sensor is bad? Is that a fair guess?
  20. Every once in awhile my Cutlass doesn't want to start, I have full power to everything good battery, alternator and new starter. PNRD safety switch replaced last year. So its making me suspect the ignition switch and I`d like some ideas on how to go about testing it when the failure occurs by myself. Wanting to rig up a test light so that I can probe the terminals on the starter solenoid but this usually happens when I'm by myself and no remote start device. Any ideas for that would be cool, also interested in any locations inside the car for probing purposes. Another question would be about the sensor on the key (passkey? or I might be thinking something else) If the thing on the key or inside the cylinder doesn't connect or activate what happens when you turn the key ON but not ignition? Can you still get full power to everything just no engine start? Also I had 2-3 warning chimes after the engine was started the other day(not everytime) and I remember reading along time ago that was not a good thing but I cannot find anywhere what it means.
  21. Don't know if anyone can help me but here goes. My 1995 Buick Riviera was recently totaled in a parking lot by a drunk driver. My work let me take the 1997 Lumina 3.1 4 door to use. I insured and registered it and it runs great. Problem is the front seats are shot and I called numerous places and no one has a pair. One junkyard told me the only difference between GM seats from those years are the way the tracks bolt to the floor. Older cars have 4 bolts and newer cars have 2 bolts in back and a front hinge that secures the seat. He told me I could use newer Impala seats and all I would have to do is unbolt the track from my seats and put them on the impala seats and they will bolt right in. He claims all GM seats , even the buckets and split bench in front can interchange tracks because all the seats have the same bolt pattern, it's just the bottom tracks that secure the seat to the floorpan that is different. Could this be true because I found a 2002 Impala with the same color split front bench in flawless condition and if all I have to do is switch tracks Ill buy them right now. Thanks for any help. Bigbad1 Sorry I had to edit this , My lumina has cloth bucket seats in the front that touch each other. Not a split bench. Sorry.
  22. Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  23. 1) What is my best bet to avoid buying the specific tool I read you need to install these I read some spark plug tool fits, is it a for sure fit? I just can't get down there enough to see anymore then the connector, so much oil. Thanks for any tips there! 2) Temp Fix: Can't I just put a 1/4th NPTF pipe socket with some teflon tape properly wrapped and then obtain tool + oil pressure switch? (I think I even have some in my tool box ~_~ otherwise a hardware store is walking distance, auto store is not. I know I know terrible to bypass the oil pressure switch for a few days however I've been ill and using taxi cab has been expensive- I could save the cost of the tool if I do this hack job repair as a temp
  24. Mel87

    Blinker relay?

    Went to Dunkin Donuts this morning and noticed the my right blinker isn't blinking. Just a solid state on. When I got home I tried to diagnose it. The hazards will blink it, but when I use the blinker lever it wont. There are no bulbs out so it brought me to the conclusion of a bad relay maybe? I remember years ago it happened to my uncles Dodge truck. Would that be what it is and if so where is the relay located? Also it won't blink even with the headlights on.
  25. I am replacing the master switch and the steering wheel controls in the '06 and I was wondering if I had to take the door panel off and the steering wheel out to do them. Is there another way?
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