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Found 95 results

  1. For anyone not aware, I had bought a TGP in October, 2013 which had a few minor needs. I was chipping away at small projects. I bought a parts car a couple months ago. On July 21, 2014, my TGP burned out due to a PMIII accumulator failure. So now the parts car has become the fixer-upper. So I will update this tread as I finish little projects. It's not in horrible condition. I may sell it soon, as I found one with lower mileage that I might pick up. Here are some pics from when I brought it home : The closer one is the one that burned, the one towards the left is the one I have still.
  2. Not sure if this follows my manuals definition of delayed engagement for my transmission. Awhile back I replaced the neutral safety switch and then the starter and right about the time I took the switch off to clean and readjust it before replacing it I noticed that after starting it up and putting it in R or D it would act as if in N. I could feel the shift linkage move but the lurch from going from P to R or D would not present itself until after the engine ran for a few seconds(build up pressure?) then the trans would pick up on what the linkage was telling it to do. Fluid level is and should be OK, however even further back I replaced both the trans cooler lines at the same time and there is a 50% chance I have them backwards, In my mind if they were backwards something catastrophic would have happened by now but I've never reversed the flow of fluid to the transmission so I don't know what it would do. Before going any further the fluid is still red, unburned and the filter and fluid are WAY less than 15,000 miles. A small leak is present at one of the rubber to metal joints of the trans cooler line even after switching to the ring/screw style clamp vs the POS ones you have to use pliers on. Which leads me to think maybe I did get those lines backwards but surely I`d be seeing a massive amount of trans fluid on the ground or in the coolant if they were. Has anyone come across this issue or something similar before and what was done to remedy the problem? The manual has me thinking of the most complicated solution to the most complicated problem and that has very seldom been the case, always something simple that someone here thought of that I didn't (Long Island teas are my current drink of choice and forget they can sneak up on the unsuspecting) which is why this thread exists now.
  3. My Lumina has a burned out bulb. How hard is it to change?
  4. 94 3.4L DOHC, the Cannister Purge vacuum plastic line drops behind the engine and goes to a hose that goes under the vacuum booster. It's got a burned crispy spot from where it appears to have been resting either on the exhaust manifold or O2 sensor and it also touches the transaxle shift linkage. Doesn't really look like that's how this hose is supposed to be routed. I've zip-tied it to the evaporator pipes to get it away from the exhaust and gearshift linkage, but was just wondering if anyone knows how it's supposed to be routed and if you happen to have pics?
  5. Hey all, My '92 has developed a part-throttle, high-RPM 'hiccup' at 4000rpm and 5500rpm. It's a pretty harsh jerk that feels like the ignition is being shut off and turned back on. This started when I had nothing more than a slightly rough idle, and pulled my ICM and coils to take them in for testing. They all checked out, but when I was putting it back together I found a burned spark plug wire near the routing bracket under the front exhaust manifold. I replaced that wire with a spare I had, and put the rest of it back together. The idle smoothed out, but then this hiccup started happening instead. So I replaced all the spark plug wires last night, and it hasn't changed at all. The ICM was tested on some kind of ICM tester at Autozone, I tested the coil resistance myself, and it was the same on all 3 though I don't remember the exact reading. There are no codes. Last I checked, the plugs were in good shape, though I can't imagine how a plug would cause this. Anyone else ever experienced this before? The only other symptom is intermittent hot-stalling at stoplights, though I think that is a separate IAC problem.
  6. Currently my 284's select cable is a hook-style at the actual shifter. My question is, can this cable (the older-style, apparently mine is the newer style) be retrofit to use, or should I just sell/return it? I know there are probably others looking for this cable, which I found here: http://www.finditparts.com/t/250/manufacturer/general-motors//products/3184044/general-motors-10111584 Part number is correct, or at least it's burned into the cable sleeve. I guess mine is the newer style, but there's not a huge amount of information available on these.
  7. I have a 1999 Grand Prix GTP. Yesterday I drove an hour on the freeway upon getting home my car did not want to go in the drive way, it was like i was stuck in neutral. I went through the gears and reverse worked along with 2 and 1 but no D or 3. There where no signs of anything wrong. no rough or hard shifting or no shuttering what so ever and my fluid is not dark nor does it smell burned. Does anyone have any idea what went wrong or what may be broken ?...
  8. Two part question How do you change the light bulbs in the steering wheel buttons? More importantly, what all is supposed to light up in the interior? I know the steering wheel buttons are (see question above, I have 1/3 burned out). The lock/unlock button on the drivers side lights up, and the AQ9 controls, but not anything on the passenger side (window and lock buttons), nor do the window buttons on the drivers side. I don't recall if the mirror adjuster lights up or not
  9. Hey guys...question for you all. On my radio I have a few burned out light bulbs. Well, I've got a few other radios laying around, but for the life of me I cannot figure out how to get to the little bulbs to replace them!? I'm sure someone here has to know how to access them. Thanks!!
  10. i check the fuses and all four bubs work unless there dual and that part may have burned out ?
  11. Here's the video, the description pretty much describes the situation. The low oil sensor was unplugged from whoever changed the starter. So the previous owner filled it. Although it was full. And not just filled it... He FILLED IT. 9 Quarts of oil in there. Drained 4 and left 5 in. After taking out 6 OIL DRENCHED plugs, and sticking in some nice old ones I had handy, I got it running again. Ran really good! Burned a lot of oil out the exhaust! Then once it warmed up some it developed this ticking.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F0LmG3zp8I Being that is was way way way overfilled, and the pistons were slapping the oil around. I'm sure there was a bit of foam in the oil. Air isn't the greatest lubricator. Is it possible the foamy oil could have spun one of the cam bearings? :-( Is it worth replacing? The Alternator is bad, P/S is bad, The intake gaskets are shot, It needs a full tune up, A mysterious leak starting half way down the crank pulley, and the dist. drive o-ring is leaking pretty bad it looks like. Could this be just a bad exhaust manifold gasket??? Or is it a bad bearing or even a bad cam... It needs about $300 to $400 in repairs as of now, And if this ticking is going to be the death of the thing, I really would rather not put $300-$400 into a garbage engine... Thank you all. I really do appreciate the input from this forum, even the stupid simple input! (As most solutions are stupid simple ). -Tim EDIT--- If it's any help, the cylinder closest to the brake booster was the worst as far as the plug being oil soaked...
  12. I've had a burned out illumination bulb in my Cutlass for a long while, so I took it apart to fix... What I found is, as least to me kinda weird. I'm used to the plastic holders using a type 194 bulb, just pull out the bulb, and replace! The holders in my car are green, and the bulbs appear to have extremely long leads that wrap around the metal contacts. In other words, the bulbs don't seem to be replaceable without destroying the holder. Anyone seen this before, and would a '94 or earlier dash have the more normal bulb holders? If not, where do I find replacement bulb holders/bulbs?
  13. Im wondering whats the best brand to go with on the headlights? I replaced my drivers side dim about a year ago, and the other night it was burned out. I checked the wires on it, looked good, slammed the hood and it flashed on. I hit the light two times and it came on and has stayed on. The other four bulbs have never been replaced in the five years of owning the car. So what is the best brand that you guys have found that last? Oh, and i gotta say, i love the 3100 alternator mount location. had to change it this past weekend after it went out in the middle of an intersection. Only took about 10 min to pull, 10 min to drop new one in.
  14. Christmas night I was driving when the car made a strange noise and stopped accelerating. I pulled over and let it sit for a while before I ran it through the gears. A little later, it was able to creep home while still making a horrible noise. When I had it towed to my fathers house a week later, it seemed that things changed. The noise can now only be heard while in park or neutral. It pulls strong in all gears except revers which doesnt seem to engage at all. Fluids were at the proper level but did seem to be a bit burned. Anyone know what exactly the problem is? 1996 Monte Carlo Z34
  15. Well after 169k miles i think its rebuild time for this 4t60e. ive put 95 k on this car with no real problems. the engine runs well ,still on the factory original lim's. anyhow. shes slipping in 4th gear(overdrive) and today a little in first gear. if i give her a little shit the slippin' goes away(more throttle= more line pressure me thinks). its shifts through the gears fine and it stays in gear fine, reverse is instant. but when shifting into drive its about 3/4 of a second delayed. a little history on this trans,car. the prior owner was the county of san bernardino california (deserts, mountains hot temps, hills, and by the way the cars undercarrage looks it went offroad a few times. i got it in 2006 for $ 3500 (yeah i paid too much) it had 75k on it then. the county must haced servied the tranny at 50k or so (it had a FILTRAN filter) but it ran great and shifted perfect till about 2 months ago. i had noticed something odd about the shifting , it just didnt feel right. so i dropped the pan did a fluid/filter change(dex 3). now here it is a month later and its slipping and the fluid is darker and it smells burned. so ok then i suck out enough too add some lucas trans stuff. (it didnt help made it worse). last night i pumped most of that crap out and put in 5 new qts of dex 6. it was better for about a day now it slips again now in 1st. Sorryfor the long winded(gasbag) post. any ides or Prayers? for this 60e oh by the way no check engine light is on and no codes in the comp lee
  16. Kalgorn

    What is this?

    And why isn't it hooked up? I noticed it today while one of my roommates was filming videos of my car for a film project he's doing for school. We're making a commercial for the '92 Z34. It should be really good when it's done. We're going to have some voice overs done for it too, try to make it authentic. And hey, I got a free tank of gas out of it. I burned up about 2/3 a tank just today doing this and he filled it up for me a little while ago.
  17. So I have a 98 9c3 Lumina which came with ONLY an AM/FM radio. I went to U-Pull-It and got a CD unit out of a 2000 Grand Am. Came home, plugged it in, and it the radio worked but the CD player didn't. So, I took it back and swapped it out for a unit from a 98 Sunfire that was at least cosmetically identical... I believe it's the exact same P/N. This one works fine but it will only play store-bought cd's, not burned ones. My entire music collection is on my computer and in the past I've used my ipod, so I dunno what to do here. Am I boned? Are there any plug-n-play Delco CD units that will read burned cd's? Maybe I should just go with an aftermarket HU? Any help is appreciated. As you can see, I'm new to the forum. I'm new to the W-body world as well, as I've been a B-body guy in the past. This is actually the first car I've ever owned that wasn't RWD and V8.
  18. For awhile now (almost 2 years) I've been fighting a problem with the PCM freaking out in the summertime after an hour or so of driving. Today I was working on the car after running errands and quite by accident found the PCM is getting ridiculously hot when I burned myself on it. I subsequently found the vent to the box that encloses the PCM dangling behind the bumper. I need to know exactly where this clips so it gets the airflow it's supposed to. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about. This is only present on 1996 (OBDII) GP's. 1995 won't have it. Sorry if these are huge pictures. Here's the same thing for another view. This one is from a 96 Z34. That bracket behind the headlight where it mounts isn't present on GP's.
  19. So pretty much exactly last year I replaced my window motor because the old one was toast. The new one worked well until the last month or so it started being inconsistent. So, still under warranty I decided to replace it once again on Monday. Everything was working well. Yesterday I was driving home from work and noticed a burning smell... thought it might be coming from under the hood. Tried to roll up the windows and the drivers side (one I replaced) wouldn't go up! I still hadn't had time to put the door panel back on so I had easy access, wanted to see if maybe the harness was unplugged. Well, needless to say the motor was piping hot and actually burned my hand quite badly. I removed it and am getting a replacement. What could cause this to happen? Especially after 1 day of use! I'm concerned that something else is wrong and i'll just kill the replacement.
  20. This is on my 95 Regal, L27. This has been happening for a while now. While the car is in idle, there's a light puttering sound coming from the exahust, and its repetitive. If you listen for it, you'll hear it during the idle clips. Its a puttering sound that's very repetitive and predictable. The car pulls hard and has plenty of power, and there aren't any SES codes thrown. It idles decently well and doesn't fluctuate much at all. Any idea on what this could be? If you put your hand toward the exhaust, you can feel the exhaust blowing bursts of air during the puttering sounds. Try to listen for bursts of air. Is this normal? Magnaflow straight through muffler. 4-5 years old, 80-90k miles.
  21. I've taken my dash apart to put in the new factory stereo with CD in my '95 Cutlass Supreme. While I've got things apart, thought I'd tackle the burned out lights in the Electronic Climate Control. Found the right bulbs at Radio Shack, but now have a question. The ECC is in pieces on my desk, and I need to drive to Radio Shack to get the bulbs...will it hurt anything to drive the car with the Electronic Climate control out of the car? I'm pretty sure it's OK, but wanted to make sure...don't want to break anything else!
  22. Ok so today i decided since ive been putting around town in my 92 lumina 3.1 to final take her out of town and local area to peatone IL which ive been to many times in my old 2.2 reliant wagon. well made it up there pretty nice doing 65/70 MPH (im a bit of a lead foot). well i go in do my shopping and just hanging out drooling over the hemi chargers the mall has on display and i go out car cranks right over and im on my way and i stop at a stop sign and turn my blinker on and all that. well with my radio loud as usual i didn't notice the car had died out so i turn my radio down and look at the dash and am like did it really die out .well it did so i try to crank it back over to start it well it does nothing no cranking over at all tho i hear actuating so i pull the hood look around some not knowing anything about the GM 3.1 i burned myself on the exhaust manifold reaching for the coil pack. i made sure all were snug and got in and she started and made it home with no problems so idk i think this car hates me .
  23. Hi all, For a 97 CS with 3100 and 196k km, we have the generic Canadian Tire Power steering fluid, which is the green stuff, I used it to top up the reservoir over the last few years. I think the part number in the back of the bottle doesn't match the owner's manual, should that be a big problem. Lately I've noticed that when turning, slowly, I can hear a howling kind of noise, hard to explain. Otherwise the ps seems to work fine, for the most part, I heard about dumping dexron III ATF in, I'm not sure about that one. Another problem is with the turn signal, I did have a look at the write up on how to change it for the GEN 1, but I do not think it is the problem. As when I select to turn left or right at random times, the turn signal light will just stay stuck on. Until I manually cancel it. For example, I drive, try the left, gets stuck, move it to the right, works fine. And vice versa. The way to remedy it is keep using it and it works fine after. I'm pretty sure the blubs aren't burned out, could it be anything else? Could sparying some kind of electrical grease in the turn signal part help in any way? Thank you
  24. Hello. I was wondering if anybody can help me with my Cutlass problem? Its a 92, Engine 3.4 DOHC 120.000 miles, no fluid leaks, got tune up 2 years ago, got new IAC 4 weeks ago, trans fluid was changed 2 years ago,fluid level ok, no oil in water or water in oil, Was running great till some day after starting the engine idle run up to 3000 rpm. After parking the car for 2 days this high rpm stayed high for up to 20 min. If the car was driven every day it was just 4-5 min. After reading in this forum I changed the IAC. The change was, the idle still went to 3000, but only for about 20 seconds then it dropped to normal.I thought the problem was fixed. But NOW the car dont want to start anymore. Before it took just turning the key to start it, now I have to pump the gas pedal and when it starts it shakes and spits white smoke and smells from unburned gas. After it gets driven it runs ok and when it is warm it drives normal. But the start problems are every time now( when the engine is cold). Also the rpms when the car is coasting in D and about 35mph is 1000, usually that was around 1600, but it doesnt stall. Does anybody have an idea whats wrong with my engine suddenly? I love this car and it served me great the 6 years I own it now.Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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