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Brake light comes on when i hit the brakes, then goes off?!?


m0sh_man
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my brakes appear to be working alright, but when i hit the brakes the light comes on then after its pressed for a second or two it goes back off.

 

ive noticed that when i first push the brake that the car is slow to stop, then as soon as the light goes off it stops real fast, when the car is stopped and i push the brake hard i can hear something buzz which im assuming that its the ABS, but im not sure whats going on.

 

sorry for all the questions, im new to the w-body car I seen the 3.4L 5 speed GTP and i just had to have it, i knew it was rare.

I just want the car to be safe on the road.

 

matthew

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Is it the Brake or ABS light?

If brake light, the fluid is low and needs to be filled or you need a brake job.

If ABS, there's a more serious problem. Could involve a dying ABS module or pump.

Double check level and you may want to properly bleed the system so that there's no air in the lines.

 

- Erik

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its the brake light itself, I just replaced the drivers side rear rotor, and the pads on that side, the pad on it fell apart, the front pads are brand new, and the passenger side rotor is in good shape along with the pad. The ebrake works fairly well it could be tightened alittle.

 

Should i go around and re-bleed the whole system?

Is it possible that one of the caliper is leaking or something?

 

when i bought the car the fluid was full in the small side of the resevior, but the side that holds the most fluid was completly empty not exactly sure what that means.

 

let me know if you have any info,

 

im glad to know there is an ABS light and a brake light.

 

matthew

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when i bought the car the fluid was full in the small side of the resevior, but the side that holds the most fluid was completly empty not exactly sure what that means.

 

That means there is severe pad wear on the brakes.

The brake fluid level is an indication of when to replace brakes / components.

When the pad wear, the fluid compensates for the distance lost on the pads.

When needed, the system sucks in fluid so that the same amount of pressure is applied to the brakes.

If the mastor cylinder resivor is low or empty, replace the remaining three sides and fully bleed the system.

Old brake fluid can turn corosive if condensation, air or particles in the lines.

Those are my recommendations since you don't have previous history for the brake replacement.

 

- Erik

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thanks for the info, i pulled all 4 wheels off the car, and the front brake pads seemed to be almost new, i only looked at the outside part as i didnt take the calipers off, but what i seen looked nearly new, the rear passenger side looked to be about 50% or so, but i had to buy the rears in pairs so ill replace them and see what happens.

 

i understand the basic concept of how the brakes work and how the fluid levels work with pad wear, (ive owned over 30 cars and none were purchased new, and i do almost all my own work) the drivers rear pad was nearly gone, the metal rivits in the pad were eating at the rotor, i replaced the pads and the rotor, surprisingly the brake caliper was in great shape, the sliders on it were excellent, i removed the ebrake bolt from the back and removed the bracket, and pressed the piston back in, all worked out well, and the brakes stop well but the light comes on, but like i said the brake light comes on when i press the pedal, then it starts feeling like its braking hard and the light goes off when the brake feels strong. I dont feel safe driving a car that has ANY brake problems, i can feel safe with the speedo and alternator gauge not working at the moment, but the brakes are a definative must.

 

matthew

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More than likely it is your brake switch on the brake pedal that is faulty. Check the operation of the brake switch when the brake pedal is pushed down. You might need another person to watch the brake light or push the brake pedal while you are trying to look for the proper operation of the brake switch.

 

The brake pedal should push the "brake switch" to turn on the brake light. As the brake pedal is pushed down further, the brake switch should not release back without first releasing the brake pedal.

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More than likely it is your brake switch on the brake pedal that is faulty. Check the operation of the brake switch when the brake pedal is pushed down. You might need another person to watch the brake light or push the brake pedal while you are trying to look for the proper operation of the brake switch.

 

The brake pedal should push the "brake switch" to turn on the brake light. As the brake pedal is pushed down further, the brake switch should not release back without first releasing the brake pedal.

 

 

ill bet this is the problem, my brake pedal when i bought the car had a spring going from the pedal to the underside of the dash, this kept the pedal from sitting on the switch which would cause the brake lights to come on, who knows, ill give it a try.

 

matthew

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ill bet this is the problem, my brake pedal when i bought the car had a spring going from the pedal to the underside of the dash, this kept the pedal from sitting on the switch which would cause the brake lights to come on, who knows, ill give it a try.

 

The brake pedal switch will not affect a brake dash light.

That pedal switch turns on the rear tail-lamps only.

It's either something on the master cylinder or related to the ABS system.

I'm willing to bet it's a brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder resivor.

 

- Erik

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The brake pedal switch will not affect a brake dash light.

That pedal switch turns on the rear tail-lamps only.

It's either something on the master cylinder or related to the ABS system.

I'm willing to bet it's a brake fluid level sensor on the master cylinder resivor.

 

- Erik

 

what he said....my probe was the same way...the more the pads wore, the lower the the fluid in the resevoir would get when you pressed the pedal, once it gets below a certain level, the light goes off....top off the fluid and I would guess that you would be alright....

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