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Found 976 results

  1. Hey_everyone Please_don't_mind_the_underscores_I_can't_use_the_space_bar_when_i'm_using_Microsoft_Edge_browser. I_have_an_06_Grand_Prix_GT.__Sometimes,_when_I_am_at_a_red_light_with_my_foot_on_the_brake_I_feel_a_vibration_in_the_steering_wheel.__When_I_let_off_the_brake_and reapply_pressure_it_will_go_away.__It_looks_like_my_brake_fluid_is_at_an_acceptable_level,_just_not_sure_what_to_check_next. Strange, now my space bar works. Thanks!
  2. The Haynes manual for my 1997 Lumina describes a secondary procedure for bleeding the brakes, and I don't understand it's purpose. 1) After the first bleeding process is complete, and the pedal feels soft, perform the following warning light test five times without touching the brake pedal. Then repeat the bleeding procedure. Warning light procedure: 1) Turn car on. 2) Watch ABS warning light for ten seconds. 3) If the warning light turns off after three seconds turn the car off. 4) Repeat five times, and then bleed the brakes again. Why is the secondary bleeding procedure necessary? Kindly, Fej
  3. I have a 93 regal with ABS I just replaced the brake lines and rear calipers in. I read on-line there is a specific procedure to bleed the brakes/abs system when the master cylinder runs dry. If anybody could tell what that is for my car it would be appreciated. Also on the replacement calipers it said I must adjust the parking brake or damage could occur. Are they talking about adjusting the parking brake at the equalizer or is there a separate procedure to do this? Thanks in advance!
  4. So the title pretty much says it, the fluid is coming from the brake piston and is all over the pad and the disc. I always seem to have leaky rear brakes regardless of the brand of re-manufactured or new (when they where available) parts. is there something better i am just missing? and can the tool that is used for re setting the ebrake be rented at a parts store? thanks
  5. It's 1986 - you've been transported to the past, and miraculously, you're on the GM-10 project, that is supposed to help revitalize GM's image, and bring them back from possible financial ruin. Knowing all you know now about how the cars have aged, what are some things you think would improve the overall quality of these cars in fifteen years? Do you think they survived the years they were meant to survive without falling apart terribly? This is with an understanding of both quality control's effect on the bottom line... it's hard to keep these things on a budget. Also I'm aware that GM did fix these things in the newer "1.5" gen W's. I'd do the following: Strengthen the brakes - less problematic rear calipers Use different materials to cover Lumina and Cutlass dashpads Design the turn signal switches differently in the square columns (I'm not an engineer, but perhaps better quality metal on the contacts) Glass headlights throughout the line, no plastic that can fade and discolor I'll think of more, but I figured it was an interesting idea to write on.
  6. Hi. Today I started bleeding the brakes with my brother-in-law, after installing these days a new precharged accumulator. Started like its described in the haynes repair manual at the right front brake - all good. Then started bleeding on the right front brake. ( regularly checked the fluid level) But after approximately 15 minutes of bleeding, there is still air in the hose ? What could that be !? Currently Im pretty frusted with the brake problem.
  7. So looked but cant find a answer. Will a gen 2 cradle bolt in to a 95 vert? I wanna upgrade suspension and brakes and would be alot easier with the gen 2 cradle? Anyone swapped them? Whats needed? Assuming cradle, and everything attached, struts, control arms, etc? They are plentyful in the yards even the aluminum ones just wondering.
  8. Need to get the front wheels off the ground to do the brakes, problem is the pinch welds are rusted and will easily give. I've tried to find a alternate central lifting point online but haven't been successful. The whole underside is quite rusted, so where would be a safe place to jack up the car and put the jack stands? Pics or diagrams would be helpful too if anyone has them, thanks in advance
  9. My '95 GP SE has a reoccurring problem every couple of years or so. About 2 years ago I was having problems getting it started and then one day the whole electrical system just spazed out on me. While I was driving no less. Luckily I was coming to a stop at the time. I took it to a garage and he told me there was rust built up in the underside of the fuse boxes under the hood. After I got it back, it started every time, until now. This morning I tried to start it and it started doing the same old thing, 'click', nothing. So, has anyone else experienced this? I'm in Michigan where the weather goes from cold to rainy to sunshine, in one day. What is the best way to not only fix this, but hopefully prevent this from happening again in 2 or so years? I pretty mechanically inclined and have done several repairs/maintenance to my beast (rotors, brakes, radiator,alternator.). But this is electrical and I'll admit, I'm somewhat intimidated. At the same time, I'm eager to take non new challenges and learn something new. TIA.
  10. Hi. My brakes are since I got the Regal pretty sluggish. I don´t no if this is normal for the anti lock system but its annoying. Issue: When I am braking you can hear the anti lock pump (slow driving on my yard) and the the car isn´t braking as fast as it should. Not like other cars, it needs approximately 0,5 sec till you feel that the brakes grap and the car slows down. --------------------------------------------------------- Should I first bleed the brake system ? New discs with new brake discs are ordered. Hope anybody can help me ? greetings HEMI
  11. Hey guys, it's been a while since I've posted, and my situation has been upgraded a tad since the last post. I'm currently in the 3rd week of the North Slope job I finally got, and I'm feeling a bit dizzy with the money I'm making up here. So far I'm being good and following my 2 year plan to throw the majority of my finances at student loans, but being single and no kids, I'm hoping to be able to blow about $1,000/month on the Lumina over the next year to accomplish the pimping. That's approximately $12,000 on my 1991 Lumina Euro - covering suspension, wheels and tires, brakes, body and engine. I've got a 3.4 sitting in the '92 Z34 I found in a junkyard, and will be working on that in the near future, but the Euro is my DD when I'm in the real world, and I want to complete the suspension upgrade before starting anything else. My ultimate goal for this car is to firstly - force each and every member of my family, and friends who have repeatedly told me to sell the thing over the years to admit it's a f****** beast, and second - improve the suspension to near bulletproof so I can drive it down for a tour of the lower 48 next year - and not overly worry about how much I'm racing it. I'm hoping to wring as much power as possible out of the 3.4, and I'd like to have a suspension that laughs at the g-forces, but gives a decent ride as well. I will of course be doing, and have done a lot of research on 'traditional' upgrades, but I haven't seen a lot of threads covering what you all would attempt if money wasn't a deciding factor. I don't get a lot of free time while I'm working, and I'm hoping for some ideas that I can pursue and set in motion, to be completed or installed over my R&R. I don't care if we're talking about conversions, modifications, bolt-on, or whatever. If you've ever had a "It would be so badass to do _________" moment, I would very much like to hear about it. I've got the inclination, and now, luckily, I've got the finances to pursue it if it's feasible. Hell, even if it's not feasible throw it out there. Thanks in advance p.s. I get to write off any tools I purchase, so specialized tools aren't a problem.
  12. Is it as hard as it looks, or is there a easier way of going about it. I got as far as removing everything up to the brakes before the bugs got too much for my son and I. What a stupid place to put the alternator.
  13. So a couple weeks ago, the engine in my 94 Cutlass has had a notable but small shake at idle, as if it wanted to turn off. It disappeared as I would accelerate. I checked the spark plugs and cables, and all seemed good, so my next step was to check the vacuum lines. I noticed the brake booster vacuum hose felt frail and would make a whistle every time I pressed the brakes. I naturally looked for a hose to replace the old one, and in between that was when the shake got worse. The last time I drove the car, the SES light turned on and triggered P1405 - EGR 3. That same day, I swapped the hose but it was after the fact that it turned on the SES light. So now I'm at a loss. I thought it had to do with that vacuum line but turns out while that fixed the whistle when I pressed the brakes, I'm still having a shake on the engine, as if it were a misfire. The weird part is that it stumbles when I floor it until 2500 rpm, then the engine revs easier but still feels a bit restricted. So I'm at a loss here since searching brings up nothing except for things for Ford, which interesting enough P1405 is a common issue on Ford EGR's and it usually ends up being a "DPFE SENSOR", but nothing comes up for that code for a GM car. So with that said, where should I look, or should I replace the EGR?
  14. I think I remember reading somewhere that the front strut is an insert, and the whole thing that the wheel/brakes attach to does not need to be removed? Is that true? Anyone know how it is done, and if it is a DIY kind of job?
  15. Just saw this thread where a guy with a 2000 Impala put C5 Corvette calipers on it. I have a spare set of C5 calipers in my garage (doesn't everybody??) and would love to use them on my '92. If I upgraded to Gen2 front spindles, which I've been planning to do for the past year already, would there be a bracket that would work to mount a C5 caliper? Thanks, DD
  16. Hi ! So my Buick will need new brakes for both axles. Are the power stop high performance brake set on rockauto are good or bad ? Everybody of my friends said that I should use EBC stuff, but I will not spend so much money because Im driving not very fast or a lot of miles every day with the regal. What do u think ? Thanks.
  17. Hello I am new guy with a 01 Old Intrigue Low Low milage 50,000 miles I got it with 40,000. EBS Brakes, Spectre panel Filer
  18. Hello - Been in to Olds my whole life - have owned a '92 Supreme Convertible since around 1996 - hasn't been on the road in about 11 years but fortunately has been safe in a garage. Dragging it out to start getting it on the road to enjoy the warm weather. Among the needs are new front and rear glass and brakes all around. Has anyone here sourced a replacement dash pad for these? They seem to all loosen / shrink / curl around the defroster outlet under the windshield. Any pointers will be appreciated! Thanks, Gordon
  19. Went to go but gas earlier as I was turning out of the driveway my brakes felt weird when I got down the mile to the end of my road I hit the brake and it Hissed and was stiff and the brakes didn't work. Stomped the E Brake and that didn't work, and the ABS light is on now. Fluid is full, and system isn't showing any codes. Gotta fix it tomorrow/today any ideas to check would be greatly appreciated for quick responses to check on.
  20. I have just been handed an 89' Grand Prix that has in the past had over heating problems. it's still pretty cold outside where I'm at so it hasn't had the problem. we changed the thermometer twice and that wasn't it. It was also brought to my attention that there is leaking coming from under the car. it had a red-ish tint to it and it's towards the front end of the car, nothing seems to be wrong performance wise. there's just leaking and over heating in the warm weather. also noticed the battery voltage bobs up and down when the turning signal is on and when I apply the brakes, I figure it's just an alternator. and finally yesterday, happening for the first time, I had it in park and running and it sounded like it was trying to rev and my foot was no where near the gas. HELP
  21. I have a '93 Cutlass Supreme convertible with power brakes but they are not working correctly. It takes a lot of force to the brake pedal & has increased the stopping distance considerably. Any thoughts?
  22. I know this is a fairly common problem. My brakes lights don't go off without pulling up on the pedal. I've searched, but I haven't found a solution to the problem. There isn't any sort of adjustment on the linkage. What needs to be done to get the pedal to return all the way up and turn off the brake lights?
  23. So I have been working on my 2004 Imp aka the Sh1tb0x or moving forward: SkImpala Budget is about $200 a week for parts, I do all my labor with a jack and stands. So far I have Installed: -Solid front Swaybar 35mm doorman product -Vented front Rotors -KYB Strut plus front 4002 (wish i coulda had bilstein or even the adjustables, but 75 a peice was irresistible) I want to Install -17 or 18" wheels, steel with centercaps or aluminum WRC rally style wheels -Larger Rotors 12"+ -Dual piston or 4 Piston Caliper (possibly F body Conversion, or looking at Bonneville fronts) -Steel braided brake hoses -Steel Brake Lines (would love to find someone that bends and flares seamless stainless tubing with fittings to factory contour instead of bending some up myself.) -Strut Tower Connector front and rear -Solid Trailing Arms in rear -Solid Rear Swaybar and Links -Rear coil over struts (going with the KYB 4003 4004) I am Also Interested In -Possibly going with a larger Brake booster/master cylinder to move a larger amount of DOT3/4 Looking for some expert advice setting up a plan for the braking and suspension, I REALLY want to be able to slam the brakes and stop ASAFP PDQ Additionally, No ABS on this Imp for some reason.
  24. My TGP made my trip home from work interesting. Brakes quit working while on freeway, brake light came on and I had very minimal braking power. Pump no longer engaged. The next morning(I made it home safely) brakes worked again just fine. Is this a relay? Pressure switch? There are no leaks, and accumulator is new.
  25. So, my passenger side brake light is disfunctional. I replaced the bulb when a friend told me it was out. Weird thing is that it lights up normal with running lights, and flashes with the blinker on, but doesn't light up the second filament when I hit the brakes. Is the blinker function just an interruption of the first filament? Both bulbs had both filaments intact, so I'm not sure where to go from here. Also, fuse 23 (stop lamp) is good.
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