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  1. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  2. Hi everyone. I have a fixture for rebuilding the 1989/1990 Turbo Grand Prix, TSTE exhaust crossover (x-over) pipes. The original crossovers have bellow style flex joints that cracks and leaks, causing a rich running condition. All rebuilt ones come with a woven style flex joint that is the industry standard nowadays. Also, the original is encased with a molded steel heatshield that trapped moisture against the crossover, accelerating corrosion. Once rebuilt, the heat shield is no longer utilized, with no ill effects. $375 USD shipped anywhere in North America without core return. $300 USD shipped anywhere in North America with core return. (Effectively a $75 core charge - I'd prefer to receive your rebuildable core rather than charge the $75) I have had lots of seamless transactions with members on this board and, so have no worries. All shipments will include a tracking number. PayPal and money orders are my preferred methods of payment. Any questions, concerns or comments please feel free to PM me or email me at Matt
  3. I have a 93 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible that has the type of steering wheel that contains the radio and climate controll functions. The horn pads on these types of steering wheels alre well known to wear out and the horn will start beeping even when your not hitting the horn button. Most people just pull the fuse and that's it. Well, I have found a solution to this problem. The problem is that in between the horn contacts on both the left and right side of the steering wheel have this piece of material which is like a cardboard like material which compresses and literally crumbles away. When this happens, the horn contacts come in contact with one another and as a result, the horn starts beeping on its own. Well here is the fix... 1) Remove the horn pad 2) Pull back the left and right side of steering cover 3) Bend the contact pins straight and remove contacts 4) Go to your parts store and by a cork gasket making material. The type you would make your own gaskets out of 5) Trace your old pad onto the cork material and cut out 6) Reinstall the contact, contact cover, and horn pad Its a perfect fix. If you have any more questions let me know. I can also email pictures as well
  4. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  5. Just got my first w-body almost a week ago. It's a '99 GP se with the L32 engine option. 156K on the clock with a completly rebuilt tranny:biggrin: Got rid of my Toyota Land Cruiser and pulled the trigger on this one for $1,600. Replaced the front struts and mounts and will be doing a couple of checks on her to put her back up to snuff and hopefully do some upgrades. This car drives awesome. It reminds me so much of my last sports car!('85 IROC-Z) I had back in '99!!!! Times have changed and with a toddler and a 3mo old baby a sports car is not my best choice right now, but with this car I can play, have 4 doors, a huge trunk for the double stroller and I can upgrade!!!!! Have some sick thoughts about this car and hopefully I'll be able to do them as time progresses. Will be lurking and asking questions so please bear with me. Thanks and stay safe guys and gals... Marcos...
  6. If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions, want to be added to the attendees list or need more info, please reply in the other thread found-->HERE<--Do NOT reply in this thread, as the sole purpose of this one is to provide the official info & attendees list. Date: Saturday, June 27th Time: Noon - ?? Location: Herrick Lake Forest Preserve Butterfield Rd (Rt. 56) & Herrick Rd Wheaton, IL Map & Info *We will be in the parking lot/entrance off of Butterfield Rd. Cost: $5 gets you access to all the trans fats, high fructose corn syrup and sodium nitrate you can keep down! Attendees: RareGMFan (, GP40Chic ( Cully77 ( BrianG (, ClubGP) Matt Palm (, atj8 ( nos4blood70 (, + 2 guests Description: A gathering for local members, but the event is open to non-members/w-body owners as well. The event will consist of a meet and greet in the forest preserve parking lot, while we eat, drink and be merry. Please bring $5 to contribute towards the cost of food and supplies. I will provide everything needed for the cookout. Stats (for future reference) Attendance throughout the day: cars, people User names in red strike through = Did not make it. User names in blue = Not on list prior to meet, but showed.
  7. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  8. If you have any questions, concerns, suggestions or want to be added to the attendees list, please reply in the other thread found -->HERE<--Do NOT reply in this thread, as the sole purpose of this one is to provide the official info & attendees list. Date: Saturday, May 30th Time: Noon - ?? Location: Herrick Lake Forest Preserve Butterfield Rd (Rt. 56) & Herrick Rd Wheaton, IL Map & Info *We will be in the parking lot/entrance on Butterfield Rd. Cost: $5 gets you access to all the trans fats, high fructose corn syrup and sodium nitrate you can keep down! Attendees: RareGMFan (, GP40Chic ( gtpwhite ( Cully77 ( BrianG (, ClubGP) Euro (, Tim Lieb ( NTRCOOL ( dwhite832003 ( atj8 ( Description: A gathering for all local members, but the event is open to non-members/w-body owners as well. The event will consist of a meet and greet in the forest preserve parking lot, while we eat, drink and be merry. Please bring $5 to contribute towards the cost of food and supplies. I will provide all supplies for the cookout. Stats (for future reference) Attendance throughout the day: 9 cars, 9 people User names in red strike through = Did not make it. User names in blue = Not on list prior to meet, but showed.
  9. Anyone here ever done their own clear bra install? Most shops here want $500-$700 to install one, and I can get a quality kit online for less than $200. Just wondering if anyone has done it and what was your experience. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  10. Did some work on the TGP today, found an old remote radar detector under the bumper, and found all kinds of wires under the dash connected to nothing, also found some other concerning things that I have questions on. Shall we began? Found this under the dash that the radar detector was hooked into. Looks like stock wiring, says PED on it. Black wire is cut, what is this to??? Is there supposed to be a chime module here??? Found this under the dash, doesnt look stock is wired into my radio and my power antenna, maybe this is why power antenna no longer works... I feel like there is something missing here, am I wrong? Or should this just all be exposed like this?? Thanks for looking guys!
  11. Okay two questions here: 1) I bought an oil pan gasket (Fel-Pro) in which the included instructions say to use no additional sealers. However, the GM factory service manual says to apply sealer (ie: RTV) at certain spots. Which should prevail? 2) When I have the pan off, is there any harm in removing the lower bearing caps (ie: one at a time) to inspect the bearings for wear/scoring/etc.? Being sure, of course, to re-install and re-torque appropriately? As many here may know, I am doing a sort of 'experiment' with the engine in not changing oil for extreme distances/times and want to take some pictures to prove (or disprove, or prove that I'm an idiot) that very long oil changes (ie: 40k miles) can be done on these engines without chewing up the bearings or causing a sludge monster. Thanks.
  12. I have some more dumb questions if you do not mind. I need to get a new switch for my convertible top (I believe this is my problem); Does GM sell them and how much?, I saw one on Ebay for around 99.00 (that sounds crazy, but could be wrong) ------ Can I get a generic switch to fit inside the console? ------ How hard is it to rebuild the switch I currently have in the car? (One side of the switch button works, just not the other side). Thanks for all the help!
  13. As many of you, whom have already meet me know I’m from Angola, NY. I’ve been hesitant to attempt hosting a meet, but after some positive feedback in Erie, I’m going to at least try in 2015. For those whom aren’t familiar with Angola it’s uniquely situated like an island in the middle of the E/B and W/B lanes of I-90. Aside from service vehicles it’s virtually inaccessible by road, you have to park on either side of the highway and then there’s a long pedestrian bridge on either side that’s full enclosed that you have to walk through to get to the Travel Center (the heart of Angola). Ideally we’re looking at the weekend of May 8th-10th for the meet. For simplicity and pictures. We should all meet in the Westbound parking lot. You need to go past the Travel Center, and get off at the next exit (57A Angola/Eden) and immediately get back onto the NY Thru way going in the opposite direction. Yes, this involves surrendering and then obtaining a toll card, if you do a U-Turn and do not have the appropriate card you will get charged even more tolls than you would otherwise and you will also be delayed. Everyone going through Erie (for example Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Toledo, etc) will need to go to the meet in this manner, it may sound confusing, but you’ll get home quicker if you do things this way. There’s a Sunoco gas station on site (both sides) and once you walk across the bridges to Angola, there’s McDonalds, LavAzza, Moe’s Southwest Grill, Auntie Anne’s, Cinnabon and McDonald’s is open 24 hours a day!! Loads of sitting room. Wifi access is limited to 30 minutes or so, and plenty of bathrooms. Entertainment: I’m used to it since I live there, but this place (I’m told) is 100% non-stop excitement if you haven’t been there before. You can visit the Eastbound parking lot and twin Sunoco, the trucks look as if they are going to crash into you on the bridges, and I’m hoping that we could have a few photographers like maybe Eric, Rich and Lizzie take some neat passing shots from the bridges with us all parading under. We’re a ways out, but I’d consider a group trip to “Gay Road†if there’s interest. Accomodations: My place is obviously a little too small for this kind of thing, and I can’t really get close to accommodating everyone. I’ve been in contact with Galen and he can rent & fuel a climate controlled trailer for about $700 a day. (Climate controlled is heated only) which is why we’d have to have the meet so early because otherwise it could get pretty hot in those things! So if there was 10 people at the meet it would be $140, there would be some outlets in the trailer, but most of the time we’d be outside partying at the picnic area or inside Angola. You’d have to bring your own air mattress and/or sleeping bag. Questions?? Everyone asks me if I can get discounts at any of the restaurants inside the travel plaza. No, I cannot, you have to actually work for those places to get the discounts, and even then, they only apply to you. Just because I live in the Travel plaza, doesn’t mean that I somehow automatically work there, I have another job that’s not fast food. Do you have to walk all of the way to the Travel Plaza on the highway median to get food?? Not really, there’s rotundas out by the parking lot and there’s vending machines there with snacks & drinks. The real advantage to getting drinks inside and walking the walk is that you can buy one cup from McDonald’s put your name on it and go back for free refills all weekend long. I guess that I’m putting this thread out there to generate ideas and for those are considering going to ask questions.
  14. Finally found the source of the power steering leak on my '95 LQ1 Cutlass, it's definitely the pressure hose.. A couple of questions, I've searched the archives, and this looks like a fairly unpleasant job... 1. It looks like the combination of having an LQ1 and an automatic transmission makes this a tougher job..anyone found a good way to get to the fittings on the rack short of following the FSM, and dropping the subframe? I saw the recommendation of cutting the line, and using a socket, but it really doesn't look like I'd be able to get a 18mm socket and wrench on that without dropping the subframe.. 2. Would it make sense while I'm struggling to replace the pressure hose, to go ahead and replace the return hose at the same time? Any suggestions or tricks on how to best go about replacing these lines is very much appreciated...
  15. Hi all, I just inherited a 93 Cutlass Supreme S with under 8,000 miles. I took it directly to my trusty mechanic to go over it & get it checked out and make it road worthy again. I have been doing a lot of reading here and some of it is starting to make sense. I have some ST springs going on the front soon, GOT 2B GM RSTB and a few more upgrades going on soon also. Thanks in advance to all of the questions to come. Ken
  16. First, can a Mod please move this to the FAQ section. Thanks. For anyone that has a 5speed W-body, we all know about the situation with shift cables. They are hard to come by and condition is unknown. Well fortunately, if your looking for one, your problem has been solved. This is the cable that I had in the group buy: This cable is rated for 215lbs push and 620lbs pull. The length is the same as the stock cable. It is physically bigger around than the stock cable, so you will have to modify the body grommets for this to fit. Now how do you get one? You will need to contact this company: Here is a list of their locations with contact information to see which is closest to your location: Now that you know where to look, heres the info youll need to tell them. The part number for this cable is: 173-M-TT-2-59.75 Here is the e-mail from 01/08/2013 Since this was from 01/08/2013, expect prices to go up. Now the good thing about this cable is the end hiem joints can be changed. Shift cable for a 282/284, select cable for 282/284. If you have a different platform car, the last number ( 59.75" ) is the cable length. The J,N, etc platform cars use a shorter cable. Just measure your cable and give them that measurement instead of the 59.75" Now the bad part about this cable, since it is adjustable, youll need to mess with the adjustment, to make the shifts perfect/make it go into all the gears all the way. This will take a little time. Also, the end hiem joints are not perfect and might need some working with to make them fit. Everybody with a 282/284 equiped W-body, no need to worry about old shift cables. This will be the last one you buy. If anyone has any questions or wants more information, PM me. -Jason
  17. Forgive me for the car being dirty in the pictures. I'll take care of that once it warms up around here. I've been pondering about repainting my Buick for some time now. The car was brought down from Arizona to Florida at the turn of the century. I remember first seeing her and how she shined bright white in the sun. Fast forward to the end of my Freshman year of highschool and the horror begins. It started on the roof of the car. A little patch of surface rust and some peeling paint. That would eventually take over the entire roof. The hood and trunk started to peel after the roof. The problem areas are on the top of the car but now there are issues starting on the tops of the rear quarters with peeling paint. I find this car intimidating to paint with the ammount of trim there is to remove and tape off. I'm also worried about having to pull the fixed glass and cleaning up any channels under them to kill any speck of rust. Knowing where I stand all the exterior molding will have to come off. If I had the tools and place to do it I'd give this car a full unibody strip and restoration, but right now that isn't feasable. I need an alternative to keep this car going untill I can get a place to do that. My questions are: >How to I remove the trim off the car? >What is the best kind of paint I should use for my situation? (If it be just a good primer, rattle can white, or full on pro paint job.) >Is removing fixed glass as intimidating as I think it is? >Do they even sell weather strip kits and the such for my car? As the days go on these rust issues haunt me. I wanna be able to clear this up till I can be able to do that restoration that I wanna do.
  18. 1) What is my best bet to avoid buying the specific tool I read you need to install these I read some spark plug tool fits, is it a for sure fit? I just can't get down there enough to see anymore then the connector, so much oil. Thanks for any tips there! 2) Temp Fix: Can't I just put a 1/4th NPTF pipe socket with some teflon tape properly wrapped and then obtain tool + oil pressure switch? (I think I even have some in my tool box ~_~ otherwise a hardware store is walking distance, auto store is not. I know I know terrible to bypass the oil pressure switch for a few days however I've been ill and using taxi cab has been expensive- I could save the cost of the tool if I do this hack job repair as a temp
  19. 94 Cutlass convertible with 3.4L DOHC has been down a month, took weeks to get all the parts, and many hours of back-breaking work later, it's all back together. ...but it won't start. What caused it to die in the first place is the FPR went bad and it flooded everything full of fuel. Made a thread about it here: Went ahead and replaced spark plugs, valve cover gaskets, plug wires, plugs, oil manifold gasket, and lower intake manifold gasket while I was at it. Back to the problem: I had checked the fuel pressure before I put it back together. Ohm'd the injectors, all the same at 12.4-ohms. Just over 40psi with the pump running, nothing dripping out of any injectors, nothing coming out of the FPR vacuum line. I thought that part was fine. I noticed now the fuel pressure bleeds off pretty quick and then slows down at 10psi. Weird. What would cause this, if FPR doesn't leak? Usually means leaky injectors in my experience, but no fuel came out of them when I tested it earlier. Wish I'd checked pressure bleed off time when I had the fuel rail loose, but either I didn't think of it or it seemed normal enough I didn't notice. It kind of acts like it wants to start when I crank it, but it doesn't. I noticed a little bit of smoke underhood. Not sure where it's coming from, just like a light mist of smoke everywhere. Also, cranking sounds kind of weird. More whiney. Is it possible fuel getting in a cylinder could have made it jump time, like if it had been fuel hydrolocked and I didn't realize it? I take it this would show on a compression tester? I guess I'd need some kind of DOHC adapter to get a compression tester to fit. Is there any that is an ideal length for the 3.4 DOHC? I'm so frustrated and depressed. Sadly, this might be the end of the line for the car. I may have to junk it or sell it cheap and just buy something else. We were going to sell the car in the next year anyway, but I was hoping I could keep it running till we find something else. Oh well.
  20. Hello. New to the forums here.... i have a 2000 Pontiac boneville ssei with about 160k miles on it. Last week water pump went out. Changed that and also changed the famous plastic elbows that go to the intake. After I changed it something happened and I never had heat inside the car. Drove it for about 15 minutes before I Relized that. Went home and shut car off. It never read that it overheated on the gauges..... Once I shut car off I could hear it boiling in the radiator. Long story short the next day when I checked oil it had coolant in it and I could tell something was wrong because when I went to go drive it and see if I had heat, the car was missing... Which was clearly my plugs fouled out. So today I started tearing into the motor. I'm a first timer on this and just took it slow and took pictures. I have a few questions. Once I got to the lower intake it looked like it was slightly cracked , the gasket that is, and I wasn't sure if that was culprit or not. Also where the coolant passes into the head was full of a red sludge and the thermostat was a sligt color of red. Not sure what this build up is inside there. Anyways I already got this far I figured I better keep going and to be on safe side check the head gaskets. I tore the front head off and the valve cover on the edges inside I could see white where coolant n oil were mixed but the rockers and everything were just normal black oil looking.... Once I got the head off the two right side cylanders were full of coolant on the top. The first once was just clean an nothing in it. I just wanna make sure that nothing else could be bad. I am going to change head gaskets and all other gaskets hen I put it back together. Any and all ideas are greatly appreciated. Also before I tore it apart the car was smoking pretty bad and I could clearly smell antifreeze coming out of exhaust. I will try to post some pictures I took along the way. Thanks everyone
  21. Blew a line on my 1999 Buick Regal GS about 2 weeks ago. Well yesterday I got under the car and found out all the lines are looking bad. I want to replace them all. I did track down the line that blew goes to the RF wheel. My questions are: 1) Does anyone know if there is a routing path for them? 2) The brakelines connects to some electrical box from the reservoir and they have flexible braided lines. What is this? 3) Can I cut the line where the braided line runs behind the engine and flare it so I can keep the braided line part? 4) Is there rubber lines with the car? I check out and I couldnt see any. Not sure if any are hidden. Is there anything else I should know? I do know the bleeding procedure is RR, LF, LR, RF. I also cant stand how all the lines inter tangle to this electrical box.
  22. Hello everyone, I am trying to swap my 4T60E from my '93 Bonneville to a '94 Park Avenue. The Buick's transmission housing broke just before the differential so I cannot rebuild it and I am scrapping/parting out my Bonneville. Since they both have the 3800 coupled to a 4T60E I thought it would be a straight forward bolt-in swap but the wires are different colors and the plugs are different colors, one grey and the other is light blue. So two questions I am hoping someone can help with: 1: Can I rearrange the pins in the male plug to work? or 2: Can I swap the transmissions internal wiring harness to make it work? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  23. Tearstone Performance Solutions has moved websites to Tearstone Graphics ( We now offer a lot more decals and we are equipped to do custom decals. With our new graphics website we are now able to focus more on customizing decals such as the w-body decal - You can now add your name to the decal. You can also get them in any size as well. Single: Pair: We add more designs weekly. So, when checking out and if you don't see what you want, don't go somewhere else, let us know and we will get it. Any questions, let us know as well!
  24. Tonight the engine in my Cutlass let go. I was just driving around town, and it started banging very loudly, and then died. Once it cooled down, I tried to start it and it ran for a few seconds, very rough, and very loud. So, I'm screwed. I have a few questions. First, does anyone know or have experience with Jasper engines, or know what they cost? I live in the Pittsburgh area, and am also thinking a used engine. Anybody have a rough idea what a used engine install might be? I really love my car, and it is so clean, I can't stand the thought of getting rid of it. It has just about 145,000 on it, and before this, everything worked perfectly . I know some of you guys live in the Pittsburgh area, so if you know of any good shops to recommend, please let me know. I'm going to the shop tomorrow (I had it towed tonight) to see what they have to say, but I'm afraid I already know the answer.
  25. CDN

    Seat questions

    My lumina is in need of a driver seat replacement, had a nice big tear in it when I got her and the foam is pretty shot as well. From what I have been reading, it is possible to use a passenger seat in place of the driver's seat. My first question is in a 99 Lumina, is it a simple matter of unbolt old driver's seat and drop in a passenger's seat? If not, do I have to swap the hardware under the seats or something? I know this has been asked before but I just want to make sure that I'm reading things right. If it's as simple as it sounds, not counting a stubborn nut or something, might be a easy enough project to take care of when I have some downtime. Thanks ~Ryan
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