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Found 464 results

  1. The ABS light on the dash has been on for awhile. A popped tire, I think, tore the RF ABS harness. I was too lazy to fix it right away. I had the same problem on a '92 Lumina--RF sensor harness open to road splash. What happens is that water gets inside the insulation of the broken wires, and corrodes the wire down towards the sensor, and up towards the engine compartment. The corroded wire can't be soldered, solder won't stick to it. And it's a mess to clean off with flux and heat. If the wire corrosion is only a few inches, you can cut the section out and splice to clean wire. In this case, the wire was rotted all the way down to the sensor connector, and all the way up to the engine compartment connector. I disconnected that section of the ABS harness at both ends, and opened it up for inspection. There was "no hope", so I visited my favorite Treasure Yard and grabbed a replacement harness complete with the bulkhead grommet that goes through the strut-tower. Wheel sensor end of ABS harness. Note corroded, blackened wire Engine compartment end of ABS harness, almost to the strut-tower grommet. Wire is still corroded black. Replacement harness from Treasure Yard, including grommet and retainer clip where it goes through the strut tower ABS repair entirely successful, I didn't even have to clear any codes. I got in, drove it, and the ABS warning light turned itself off. Scan tool shows all four wheel sensors providing the same vehicle speed to the ABS when I drive. Next repair was due to a plugged air conditioning drain nipple (Duckbill). The condensation wouldn't drain from the evaporator box. When I'd take a left turn, the condensation would slosh into the blower fan and make noise, and also produce "fog" from the A/C vents. If I'd gone under the car, found the silly little drain nipple very near the exhaust downtube, pulled it off and cleaned it, the water wouldn't have corroded the blower-motor resistor pack. Drain nipple, cleaned-out. Pulling this off the stub-pipe on the firewall released about a quart of water--condensation from the A/C evaporator. By the time I got around to attending to this, the resistor connector had corroded so bad I couldn't get it off of the resistor pack, and there was no current flow through the resistors--so the fan speed switch had "off", "off 1", "off 2", "off 3" and "High". Corrosion extends to the underside of the connector. I couldn't get the connector to release--it's corroded together. Getting at the resistors is a bitch. First I removed the interior hush panel on the far right side under the dash (two barbed connections hold it in place) and then there's three screws in the resistor pack WAY forward by the firewall, to the side of the blower motor. The resistor pack faces "up", so there's almost no tool clearance to put a 7/32 socket on the screws next to the firewall. Once I removed the corroded resistor pack I clipped the wire harness a few inches from the connector. Again, the Treasure Yard supplied a replacement resistor pack and connector, with eight inches or so of wire harness. I connected the replacement harness to the vehicle harness using a 4-prong weatherpack connector pair. I could have soldered the wires directly, or crimped them without a connector. Lastly, I decided that perhaps I should check the engine air filter. No special reason, but I know I haven't done it in years. Pulled an entire mouse-nest out of the filter box. Car would still go 70 mph +. There really didn't seem to be a problem with performance--but perhaps the next drive with a new filter will show improved performance I didn't know I was missing. I gotta stop procrastinating on vehicle maintenance. Each of these issues was made worse by not taking care of things right away. Next up: replace fuel filter, inspect spark plugs 'n' wires, inspect/replace radiator cap and coolant hoses.
  2. THREE complete TGP ABS master cylinder assemblies. $65 each.
  3. what all will i need to convert a 95 monte ls to OBD2 so i can actually tune the motor? i dont care for ABS, and dont have cruise control if it makes a difference. if you could, list a good estimate on price and how hard its going to be to do this. and are there any decent, cheap tuners out there?
  4. 1) Lloyd Ultimats from my 98 Regal. They are a full set of front & rear mats in the light gray color. The fronts have the Buick tri-shield logo embroidered. Some of the securing tabs are broken. $100 shiped 2) 2 sets of rear GM splash guards for 06 GP. They are used and have a good bit of scraping on the bottoms. Fit front and rear. $10 3) Trailblazer SS MAF sensor (used). $50 4) Stock 3.8" supercharger pulley (used). $5 5) MSP CAI with powerstack cone filter (used). $125 The best looking CAI, IMO. 6) Overkill Motorsports PCM left open for tuning (used). $125 7) ZZP 3" downpipe with spun cat and rear flange (necked down to 2.5") $175 can include O2 sensor extension harness
  5. Hello all, Having an issue with the buick. I lost abs after having some welding done in the vicinity of a rear abs plug that sits in the body. I am mostly certain the problem isn't the wire running to the sensor itself. Where does the wire run in the body? It isn't under the backseat that I see. Sorry about the bad image quality. My phone blows.
  6. I have a 93 regal with ABS I just replaced the brake lines and rear calipers in. I read on-line there is a specific procedure to bleed the brakes/abs system when the master cylinder runs dry. If anybody could tell what that is for my car it would be appreciated. Also on the replacement calipers it said I must adjust the parking brake or damage could occur. Are they talking about adjusting the parking brake at the equalizer or is there a separate procedure to do this? Thanks in advance!
  7. Does anyone have scan of this book? I found this manual in ebay.
  8. hey guys, my 04 grand prix started to sway a few weeks ago around 80-100kmh my tires had some play so i changed bearings ball joints tierods and sway links and even bought a new set of tires, im one of those guys with the infamous abs traction control messed up as well so im starting to think maybe now i got everything new and tightened up that im feeling the sway because traction control is off? or am i maybe due for some struts? they seem ok they dont klunk when i hit bumps and they release to original position quickly when i push down on the car, any ideas?
  9. Looking for a set of Lumina hood vents, keyword: "cheap". I will sandblast them so the paint can be really bad, as long as they are structurally sound, no broken tabs. Do not need drip pans. Please let me know price shipped to 32828. Thanks in advance!
  10. I have just purchased a 1997 Buick Regal. I am doing some repairs on it so I can drive it. The ABS light is on but when I try to read the codes the scan tool is unable to communicate with the ABS module. I checked the fuses and they are good, just looking for help on what else I should check. I used the search function to try and find similar problems but it came up empty.
  11. DTC C1221 LF Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal is 0 DTC C1225 LF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted DTC C1245 Right Front ABS Channel Does Not Move I'm assuming there's an issue with the front left wheel speed sensor. Since they're non-serviceable (yay, GM!), I've got a new wheel hub ready to go. Can someone confirm which side is the left and right? I figured the driver's side is the left side but I can't be too sure. I previously checked and the speed sensor is plugged in with no noticeable break in the wiring; however, I didn't check the resistance at the speed sensors. I'm going to do that before replacing the hub. C1245 has me a bit confused. I'm hoping this problem is in conjunction with the wheel speed sensor issue. Does anyone have more information?
  12. Imp558

    Eliminate ABS?

    A buddy of mine is building a Camero up and is purchasing a kit to eliminate ABS and do Line Lock at the same time. While I'm not particularly interested in line lock I do think it would be cool to remove the ABS and purchase a less expensive master cylinder for it. Does anybody know of a master/ proportioning valve from another vehicle that may be close enough to replace ours. I mean physically install.
  13. This part is designed really stupidly and the little tabs that I guess keep pressure on the ball to keep it from moving have broken. I really don't want to spend $300 on a new mirror. If anybody knows other solutions please let me know. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Light came on yesterday. I replaced the rear hubs maybe three or four hundred miles ago. I know I need to check the plugs wiring etc.. Anyway I was wondering what scan tool can read the abs? I have a code reader but it does not read the abs on this year car. I read that 96 - 98 have different type system. My code reader works fine for the check engine light etc.. but not for the ABS. Any other advice to find the problem would be appreciated.
  15. My anti-lock dash warning has come on since my recent alternator adventure. I checked the connector in the passenger wheelwell where I was in there working thinking I might have knocked it loose, but an R&R didn't eliminate the error. Is there a similar paper-clip method of doing diagnostics on the ABS for a '92?
  16. Got a 95 vert and engine light just came on. From researching its an obd obd2 reader does not fit the plug. I have been researching and seems I need a special cable and reader just for this. What is the cheepest route to go to get.this read. Saw a post I can by a cable and get sodtware for my laptop..will that work? Its a lq1 motor as well I was reading.that may make a difference. Also abs light on will the same reader read that? Thanks. Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
  17. Hello all! I finally decided to ditch the car payment and daily drive my black TGP. I've had the car since 2006 when I acquired it from family in the Seattle area. It was in FL (2008) briefly, but has since been in my parent's garage in IA. I originally bought hoping it would appreciate but we all know how that has gone.............. In September its relocating to Portland, OR. So instead of letting it sit, I'm going to drive it and sell when I can get an acceptable price. Its stock with the exception of a TGP 160 and K&N cone. It gets driven every few months in good weather and regular maintenance. It currently has about 53k. Only 2 issues: the tach and speedo gauges are off in reading the ABS light is on (its on its 2nd PM3, light has happened before but has gone off after driving a few weeks) we'll see when it gets out here You can see some 2008 photos in my album, hasn't changed since then. I'm sure I'll be on here regularly viewing and look forward to working with you!
  18. I've done a search here and have not found my exact problem. Here's the story, I took car (1993 Olds Custlass Supreme Vert) in to have low coolant sensor replaced, I'd bought the part intending to do it myself, but never got around to it, so took it in. The next day I went to start car and battery was pretty dead (not totally, but close enough. Have never had problems before, but as I don't know how old it was, put charger on it, got it started, took to Advance Auto Parts store, had battery tested, dead cell, had them replace. Started car and noticed the Anti-Lock ABS light was on, figured that the computer needed to reset itself, drove around and light did not go off, took back to store and asked them what gives, they stated they could not scan a car older that a 96, stated sometimes computer needs to reset it's self. So what do you guys, who know and love these cars think? On a side note: Horn does not work, Yes, I know that the pads in the steering wheel is often the problem, here's the question, has anyone here ever run a separate horn button and if so How? Many Thanks again guys, you are simply the best. Kaye
  19. Lately I've been having issues in the 04 where at low speeds (pulling into the driveway, or a parking spot) the abs kicks in for no apparent reason. In doing some google research it seems like it might be an abs sensor or an entire hub assembly, but I don't know where to start as far as pinpointing or diagnosing. Any one have any input?
  20. Anybody know what brake lines go where on the master cylinder of a 92 lumina non ABS ? Drivers side front is still attached but i think i might have the rear brake lines crossed. It's a four port master cylinder.
  21. I bought a used 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible. I've followed the boot instructions, including pushing the stiffened rear of the boot and tabs under the edge of the body, but the boot usually works loose at almost any speed. In researching the problem, I've come across some references that appear to refer to a molding that's around the edge of the body (trunk) under which the boot and tabs go. All I have is bare metal (actually, painted). It's just the edge of the trunk. Am I missing some kind of plastic molding or am I misreading the references? If I am not missing a part, is there a way of better securing the boot?
  22. Went to go but gas earlier as I was turning out of the driveway my brakes felt weird when I got down the mile to the end of my road I hit the brake and it Hissed and was stiff and the brakes didn't work. Stomped the E Brake and that didn't work, and the ABS light is on now. Fluid is full, and system isn't showing any codes. Gotta fix it tomorrow/today any ideas to check would be greatly appreciated for quick responses to check on.
  23. 93 sse Bonneville rusted brake lines took the lines off the abs pump a couple of weeks ago wrote down from front to rear of pump what line went ware cant find the paper there are 2 different size nuts 4 holes does anybody know from front to rear what line goes to which wheel thanks
  24. Replacing driver front wheel bearing but hit a snag: Do I need a bearing with the abs wire? My car has abs but all of the ones I am finding at rockauto, amazon, autozone, napa... do not have the wire and state abs N/A or are blank, all of the sites say it fits my car. Service manual states to use the wire. I would really like to get this one: There is a Timkin one at RA that states "Front; ABS Sensor Part Of Axle Assembly; 4-Wheel ABS" but the pictures do not show a wire. Is there a spot I plug the sensor into after taking it off the current one? I called autozone and they said I can buy a abs ring separate at $50, called napa and they said not a clue. Sorry bout starting the new thread, but the question does not apply as much to the previous tire rubbing thread I started and I wanted to make sure it is seen. Thanks
  25. So I have been working on my 2004 Imp aka the Sh1tb0x or moving forward: SkImpala Budget is about $200 a week for parts, I do all my labor with a jack and stands. So far I have Installed: -Solid front Swaybar 35mm doorman product -Vented front Rotors -KYB Strut plus front 4002 (wish i coulda had bilstein or even the adjustables, but 75 a peice was irresistible) I want to Install -17 or 18" wheels, steel with centercaps or aluminum WRC rally style wheels -Larger Rotors 12"+ -Dual piston or 4 Piston Caliper (possibly F body Conversion, or looking at Bonneville fronts) -Steel braided brake hoses -Steel Brake Lines (would love to find someone that bends and flares seamless stainless tubing with fittings to factory contour instead of bending some up myself.) -Strut Tower Connector front and rear -Solid Trailing Arms in rear -Solid Rear Swaybar and Links -Rear coil over struts (going with the KYB 4003 4004) I am Also Interested In -Possibly going with a larger Brake booster/master cylinder to move a larger amount of DOT3/4 Looking for some expert advice setting up a plan for the braking and suspension, I REALLY want to be able to slam the brakes and stop ASAFP PDQ Additionally, No ABS on this Imp for some reason.
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