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Found 414 results

  1. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  2. For Sale - Best offer For FFP poly Dogbones that were installed in a 1994 Cutlass Supreme 3100. Has been sitting in my garage since 2011 when car was sold. Forgot it was still in the garage sitting in a box. I'm preparing to move in 2 weeks and would like to get it to someone for them to enjoy. Don't know what the going rate for one of these is anymore, so make me a reasonable offer and it's yours. I'm also selling an AWeb RSTB (rear strut tower brace) for a 1st gen. Thanks!
  3. well folks my 3500 Lx9 swap into a 2000 buick century is done n runs great n very fast
  4. As many of you, whom have already meet me know I’m from Angola, NY. I’ve been hesitant to attempt hosting a meet, but after some positive feedback in Erie, I’m going to at least try in 2015. For those whom aren’t familiar with Angola it’s uniquely situated like an island in the middle of the E/B and W/B lanes of I-90. Aside from service vehicles it’s virtually inaccessible by road, you have to park on either side of the highway and then there’s a long pedestrian bridge on either side that’s full enclosed that you have to walk through to get to the Travel Center (the heart of Angola). Ideally we’re looking at the weekend of May 8th-10th for the meet. For simplicity and pictures. We should all meet in the Westbound parking lot. You need to go past the Travel Center, and get off at the next exit (57A Angola/Eden) and immediately get back onto the NY Thru way going in the opposite direction. Yes, this involves surrendering and then obtaining a toll card, if you do a U-Turn and do not have the appropriate card you will get charged even more tolls than you would otherwise and you will also be delayed. Everyone going through Erie (for example Pittsburgh, Cleveland, Toledo, etc) will need to go to the meet in this manner, it may sound confusing, but you’ll get home quicker if you do things this way. http://www.thruway.ny.gov/travelers/...tp-angola.html There’s a Sunoco gas station on site (both sides) and once you walk across the bridges to Angola, there’s McDonalds, LavAzza, Moe’s Southwest Grill, Auntie Anne’s, Cinnabon and McDonald’s is open 24 hours a day!! Loads of sitting room. Wifi access is limited to 30 minutes or so, and plenty of bathrooms. Entertainment: I’m used to it since I live there, but this place (I’m told) is 100% non-stop excitement if you haven’t been there before. You can visit the Eastbound parking lot and twin Sunoco, the trucks look as if they are going to crash into you on the bridges, and I’m hoping that we could have a few photographers like maybe Eric, Rich and Lizzie take some neat passing shots from the bridges with us all parading under. We’re a ways out, but I’d consider a group trip to “Gay Road†if there’s interest. Accomodations: My place is obviously a little too small for this kind of thing, and I can’t really get close to accommodating everyone. I’ve been in contact with Galen and he can rent & fuel a climate controlled trailer for about $700 a day. (Climate controlled is heated only) which is why we’d have to have the meet so early because otherwise it could get pretty hot in those things! So if there was 10 people at the meet it would be $140, there would be some outlets in the trailer, but most of the time we’d be outside partying at the picnic area or inside Angola. You’d have to bring your own air mattress and/or sleeping bag. Questions?? Everyone asks me if I can get discounts at any of the restaurants inside the travel plaza. No, I cannot, you have to actually work for those places to get the discounts, and even then, they only apply to you. Just because I live in the Travel plaza, doesn’t mean that I somehow automatically work there, I have another job that’s not fast food. Do you have to walk all of the way to the Travel Plaza on the highway median to get food?? Not really, there’s rotundas out by the parking lot and there’s vending machines there with snacks & drinks. The real advantage to getting drinks inside and walking the walk is that you can buy one cup from McDonald’s put your name on it and go back for free refills all weekend long. I guess that I’m putting this thread out there to generate ideas and for those are considering going to ask questions.
  5. I WOULD LOVE TO KNOW IF THERE ARE ANY OTHER FAST W BODY CARS HERE IN SOUTH FL I HAVE A 07 IMPALA SS WITH CARTUNING TURBO AND LOTS OF OTHER MODS
  6. Forgive me for the car being dirty in the pictures. I'll take care of that once it warms up around here. I've been pondering about repainting my Buick for some time now. The car was brought down from Arizona to Florida at the turn of the century. I remember first seeing her and how she shined bright white in the sun. Fast forward to the end of my Freshman year of highschool and the horror begins. It started on the roof of the car. A little patch of surface rust and some peeling paint. That would eventually take over the entire roof. The hood and trunk started to peel after the roof. The problem areas are on the top of the car but now there are issues starting on the tops of the rear quarters with peeling paint. I find this car intimidating to paint with the ammount of trim there is to remove and tape off. I'm also worried about having to pull the fixed glass and cleaning up any channels under them to kill any speck of rust. Knowing where I stand all the exterior molding will have to come off. If I had the tools and place to do it I'd give this car a full unibody strip and restoration, but right now that isn't feasable. I need an alternative to keep this car going untill I can get a place to do that. My questions are: >How to I remove the trim off the car? >What is the best kind of paint I should use for my situation? (If it be just a good primer, rattle can white, or full on pro paint job.) >Is removing fixed glass as intimidating as I think it is? >Do they even sell weather strip kits and the such for my car? As the days go on these rust issues haunt me. I wanna be able to clear this up till I can be able to do that restoration that I wanna do.
  7. Hi. My brakes are since I got the Regal pretty sluggish. I don´t no if this is normal for the anti lock system but its annoying. Issue: When I am braking you can hear the anti lock pump (slow driving on my yard) and the the car isn´t braking as fast as it should. Not like other cars, it needs approximately 0,5 sec till you feel that the brakes grap and the car slows down. --------------------------------------------------------- Should I first bleed the brake system ? New discs with new brake discs are ordered. Hope anybody can help me ? greetings HEMI
  8. Gibby

    TGP fueling issue

    Alright guys, slowly but surely making this a nice daily driver, I have one issue that just wont stay down though... Bought the car with 112000, replaced fuel filter right away. Fast forward to 120000 miles, car would sputter and die at idle, if I kept a little throttle it would stay running, ran great at cruze and WOT. So on a whim I replaced the fuel regulator, also found it had miss-matched injectors at that time so I replaced those with yellow tops. Car ran great after that, fast forward to 124000 miles, car starts sputtering and dying at idle again, still good at cruze and WOT. Friend and I put a fuel pressure gauge on it, read just under 30 psi with key on, book says 41-47. So we replaced fuel regulator again. Problem is once again fixed. Ok cool maybe just got bad regulator first time. Fast forward to 126000 miles, problem is back, have not checked fuel pressure again, but it has same exact symptoms still drives fine but sputters and dies at idle. Starting to think fuel pump is on its last leg and maybe it isnt the regulator at all.. Any ideas?? Thanks, Luke
  9. Hey.... So I am SICK of my current crap. To listen to the radio, I have to have the cassette player fast forwarding. It also has an awful background noise, but only when the engine is running. Results in a headache in 2.5 seconds. I have switched out the alt, no avail. I was told it was likely the amp....... 1.) Where is the amp, how do I fix it and/or what do I replace it with? 2.) Cassette player holder is stuck in the down position, how to fix? 3.) Anyone have the link handy for hooking up a 3.5mm jack to hook up a phone or iPod or something? I would enjoy this car 500% more if I could listen to something other than static/humming/hissing/whining
  10. I am having some body issues with this 94. Was wondering about the following: How can I replace the weather stripping around the exterior windshield and where could I get a replacement? Behind the Wheel where the bumper meets the rear quarter panel, what can I do (I am not a body guy), to some what fix or hide the damage from the rust? I also have this on the other side as well. Other than that, I have a fast top that goes down but closing the roof takes awhile. I have read that I just need to fill it with AT fluid while the top is down, then leave the cap off, cycle it a few times (gets the air out), then tighten the lid cap, cycle it a few times more, and I should be good to go. Thanks for any help! Much Appreciated!
  11. My GTP seems like it warms up too fast. After just a couple of minutes it gets up to 210 degrees easy(half way up the temp gauge). Then when sitting at a light goes up to 225ish. Then drops back down below 210 when driving again. Is this normal? It seems to high to me but I don't have much experience with a supercharged car. All other cars I've driven never go over halfway on the temp gauge but they have all been N/A. So I don't know if its normal or not
  12. 1990lumi

    dash cluster

    Was there a difference in dash clusters in the 90-94 luminas besides the 2 main ones one being max speed 85 the other 125 with oil temp coolant temp and tach...i am wondering because i had the first dash max speed 85 and swapped to the second style and my speed reads about 5x to fast i replaced because the chip in the old board fried out maybe when it fried it cooked my speed sensor?
  13. Why do people run these goofy things? The a pillar is already a blind spot so lets jus make it worse . Plus u have to look away from the road jus to look at the goofy things. I building some pods into my dash bezel below my cluster. My car isnt a fast and furious reject
  14. So when I bought my Turbo GP, the guy I bought it from said he had upgraded yellow injectors professionally installed. The purchase was a year ago, fast forward to today... I was replacing my fuel regulator when I came across the fuel injectors. They are two different part numbers, two different colors, and they arent even the same length!! LOL The shorter fuel injectors have extra O-rings on them to make them fit with the longer fuel injectors. So I guess I am asking which professional does this?? LOL
  15. Hi ! So my Buick will need new brakes for both axles. Are the power stop high performance brake set on rockauto are good or bad ? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1021093&parttype=13824 Everybody of my friends said that I should use EBC stuff, but I will not spend so much money because Im driving not very fast or a lot of miles every day with the regal. What do u think ? Thanks.
  16. I'm starting to run into some small issues with the VATS on the Lumina. Now I know you can disable it, but I want to make sure I'm heading in the right direction before I decide to do that or fix it, or whatever needs to be done. Anyways, it started a few weeks ago, in the morning my Security light would come on, and stay on my whole drive to work. After work, it was off and stayed off for a few days. Fast forward a week or so, and it came on again, same thing. Just in the morning, and that was it. Well it's done it now maybe 5 or 6 times, and each time it's been in the morning, and it's typically very cold. The first day it did it the temperature was -15. The most recent time it did it was this morning, it was less than 10 outside. My first thought was the key since it's the original, and I always use the same one. I can actually wiggle the resistor pellet, so I figured it was probably the culprit. Got my spare over the weekend, and I went to use it this morning. Well that was even worse. The car kept trying to stall (fuel cutout) but didn't, and was able to stay running, (but stumbilng for maybe 10 seconds) but the Security light stayed on for a few minutes. So, both keys have had issues. I don't really mind fixing the system if something needs replacing and isn't that expensive/time consuming, but I don't know where the best place to start is. I should also mention, (not sure if it makes a difference or not), but the ignition switch was replaced about 3 or so years ago... Any thoughts?
  17. So one of my buddies is willing to sell me a complete L67 in parts minus the Supercharger. Everythings in good condition,engine block has been cleaned up and everything but i need to put everything back together. He told me that i could take the heads which have bigger valves (I presume) with L36 pistons and L67 internals to make it stronger and add a comp cam kit also... Anyway you guys have any suggestions?? I'm not looking for something really fast... just something a little bit more fun! Thanks
  18. This might be petty, but I don't like how my DRLs run off the low beam headlights. I don't like how short the life span of the lightbulbs are, plus if I want to run a better-than-stock bulb (Silverstars or what have you), I don't want to them to burn out so fast. I know on the '04s (and maybe '05s), the turn signal bulbs are utilized as the DRLs and I like the way that looks better anyway. Would replacing the DRL module with one from an older GP shift the DRLs from the low beams to the turn signals? Thanks to anyone with any clues.
  19. My car is a 1994 3.8 regal and a freind of mine has a 94 Lumina 3.1. Mine sometimes has a lag before trans can pull away (only on first days pull away) . Im almost sure it is the convertor not getting charged with fluid fast enough, her Lumina has done it for years, but is so bad now that it can take 10 minutes to pull away, and now is always. I got an ATRA book on the 4t60 and i see that there is a thermostatic bi-metal valve (2 actually) . One of them regulates how much fluid is in side case depending on temp. So if its alittle off, maybe the fluid is getting pulled out of lower pan too much. It says that this trans will show HIGHER fluid when cold and that this is a function of the valve working. Im thinking about over filling alittle and see what happens. BTW, each car has very clean fluid so it cant be slipping clutches. I cant believe no-one else has seen this happen. thanks
  20. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong but this speedo will not read correctly no matter what I do! I set the tire size (205/70/15), and the gear ratio (3.29:1) and the sprocket ratio (1.121) and my speedo is still off! The PCM Cal file is GTP, and the tranny plate crossed as a Riviera L67, but I tried every other optioned gear ratio for that tranny and tried the overall ratio (2.93:1) and my speedo is at best 4% fast! At worst I got 8% faster. Is there something else I should be changing since this tranny and PCM were from different cars in the constants or something? http://www.gmtuners.com/transmission/1997_4T65-E.pdf
  21. I have two grilles for my Mercury... It fits rather well. lol So, Anyone know what kind of upgrades I can do to the Tanturd to make it an enjoyable (fast maybe) car?
  22. So, driving down the road tonight, the Speedo started jumping around, then zeroed out, and now won't shift into first, even manually. I can get it to manually shift from second to third, but no overdrive or first, and the Speedo will work when it wants, though lately, it has read wrong, and some days it is slow, others fast. Possible it is just a speed sensor? It is a 1994 cutlass convert with the 3.1 and I believe the 4T60E... Any help would be great, this is my daily driver... Thank you.
  23. vyper144

    Water Leak

    2002 Impala LS I have a leak, however, this one is NOT the passenger side, its NOT the cowl weatherstripping above the cabin air filter. (I learned that one the hard way...) This one is on my driver side... I have ruled out the sunroof drain hose 100%. I know that's not leaking, because I poured about 3 gallons of water down it and not one single drop of water inside the car. Currently: My car has NO carpet. I have pulled the foam back where this pocket is hidden behind. This is underneath the dash on the driver side. Now I have a theory that the plug that the sunroof drain hose goes through, leaks water. The really weird part about this issue is, you can't just pour water on the car and expect to see water flowing. The water pools up in the pocket, where the bolts for the bottom door hinge go through, and once its full, it begins overflowing. Now, after looking at the hinge, I really don't believe that the hinge is leaking, but the plug that the drain hose goes through is directly above, causing the rust you see in the video. My ultimate fear is that the plug isn't leaking... But the water is coming from somewhere above, running between the two panels (see where the plug that the sunroof goes around, there are 2 panels of metal that come together). If I seal around the plug, I'm just sealing water/moisture in between those two panels and waiting for the cancer to spread (fast). So I am turning this thread over to you, hoping you have some insight on the leak. VIDEO: Thanks guys!
  24. Hey there im new and just got my first W body car. A 1991 chevy Lumina Z34 originally bought from the Dale Earnhardt dealership in North Carolina. 91,000 Actual miles and Zero Rust anywhere on the car. Great interior and everything as well. I bought it for 1900 and i gotta say, coming from a 2002 Chryser Sebring LXI its not as fast on take off but MUCH faster on high end and its the only one in the area and is a real head turner. Looking to keep it running for a long time to come. But its nice to be here!
  25. Hey guys, finally got around to signing up on one of these boards. I have a 91 Regal Limited sedan, 3.8 TPI. The car has been super reliable for 8 years...already went through and fixed all the common electrical issues with these cars as they popped up over time. Cept the gauges, dem shits don't work lol. (except gas and volts) It's kind of burgundy colored or whatever the factory called that color. The car is my daily driver, love it, drives great and smooth. I have a WS6 as my weekend car so i'm not worried about getting the Buick to be epic fast but some more bolt ons would be cool. I like the fact that it runs down V6 mustangs and the rice crowd relatively easily. My roommate didn't take me seriously when i told him i'd pop his Scion tC 5-speed, but 2 car lengths later lol. The odometer doesn't always work anymore but approximate mileage is in the 220k neighborhood. Anyway that's my introduction i guess, what's up everybody
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