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Rocker panel replacement big problems


bonnie1990se

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Where to start? Okay, I have a 2004 Buick Regal GS and the rocker panels on both sides were rusted all the way up to the metal teeth where the plastic cladding graps on. Also rusted bady where both fenders where the rocker panel cladding extends to. The body man removed what was left of the rocker panels like I mentioned all the way past the stainless steel teeh or tracks where the cladding attaches itself to. The rail was removed and bent.

 

I have had a few issues with the bodyman telling me things and I want to ask people on this board for their opinion. The bodyman said the rocker panels can not be reinstalled with the original push rivet plastic clips on the bottom of the rocker cladding so he used screws and pop rivets. The stainless steel rail that attaches to the rocker panel before the plastic cladding can be put back is not properly aligned to the rocker panel and he didn't remove the rivets that were originally used to secure the rail to the rocker panels so now the plastic cladding is not firmly in place . Another issure is when he welded the fender where the rocker panel meets the fender he must have done it incorrectly because now both fenders stick out a bit.

Sorry for the long post. He also didn't prime the new rocker panels, just sprayed them with rocker guard.

 

I also have a major area rusted out under the drivers seat and the bodyman said he needs to mig weld new sheet metal in that area but he said it might burn the carpet in the car. What do you guys suggest? Body adhesive?

 

Please give me some advice. Thanks

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Sounds like you need a new car. That rust will never go away, and even with all the work being done, itll come back down the road. But do it the best way, its to cut and replace metal. And when you do that, you have to weld in place. Some body shops use the adhesives because it is quicker, and they just slap the panels on. Some of the adhesives today are strong enough to be called structural adhesives, but Id still rather have panels welded, not adhesive use. IMHO.

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When I found my rocker panels were turning into corn flakes, I knew it was the beginning of the end. It's like stage 4 cancer for these cars. Matter of time.

 

My gut tells me that rocker guard on bare metal will actually trap water and make the rust return with a vengeance.

 

The best option I can think of would be to pull up the carpet, have the floor welded, and coat with POR-15.

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Unprotected/untreated 2nd gen W bodies are notorious for rotting away all thru the rockers/hidden trunk areas if one lives in the *winter salt belt*,

 

In your position, one has to ask themself...."How much is this car worth to me?"

Given the extent of the deterioration you may be better off cosmetically & financially looking for another of the same (assuming that you like this particular model) rather than spending umpteen dollars to repair this one only to have it begin to show rust somewhere else.

It's one thing to be in the position of having the experience & tools to do this sort of work yourself at a considerable money savings, it's another thing altogether to have to spend hard earned money on a bodyshop and the car not survive because there is cancer elsewhere that you have not come across.

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  • 3 months later...
Sounds like you need a new car. That rust will never go away, and even with all the work being done, itll come back down the road. But do it the best way, its to cut and replace metal. And when you do that, you have to weld in place. Some body shops use the adhesives because it is quicker, and they just slap the panels on. Some of the adhesives today are strong enough to be called structural adhesives, but Id still rather have panels welded, not adhesive use. IMHO.

 

Yeah I have to agree...

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A picture would be worth a thousand words here. Sounds like you're already a little bit pregnant with this. I don't know a lot about bodywork but agree with the previous posters, to be effective the old rust has to be cut out and new metal welded in...

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