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Found 558 results

  1. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to convertibletopguys.com: “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from 1aauto.com with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to 1aauto.com: “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. Convertibletopguys.com give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. Convertibletopguys.com sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops: Topsonline.com—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good. Convertibletopguys.com—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on sears.com’s website here: http://auto.sears.com/Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Convertible-Tops/600025340-200743174-1994-10623.htm. 1aauto.com—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay. EZsofttops.com—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than topsonline.com, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through Electrontop.com and topsdown.com. Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is http://www.hydroe.com/Oldsmobile_Cutlass.html. If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  2. Looking for a set of 91-93 cutlass coupe or convertible seat belts for the doors. The plastic belt retainer cover on the bottom of the door has ripped on both doors and I'd like to find ones in good condition and in charcoal. Also looking for door mounted speaker mounts with covers in charcoal as well. shipping is to 18704
  3. Ok, I am cleaning out the garage and basement, and just want these parts gone. I am open to all offers. If you make an offer, shipping will be calculated after. OEM GM 3.4L intake manifold gaskets Convertible top switch Oldsmobile alero/intrigue key cyl L67 supercharger coupler GM 6 disc ch changer magazines 2001 Grand Prix Dealer brochure LTZ/Z34 center cap 1st Gen Seat Belt Extender Headlight/HUD Switch OEM GM Z34 badges GM 10 disc changers. 1 - 97, 1 - 94. 2 door door handles inner parts PN found on them Gentex Mirror 267 Donnelly with map lights G6 mirror And for a really rare one, an Add-on On-Star attachment on a GNTX-177
  4. GOT2B GM

    Battery Recommendations

    Looking to replace my dead 5 yr old Optima red top in the TGP. Would like to stick with a gel battery vs the acid kind. Any recommendations? Walmart here wants $200 for a 720 CCA redtop Maybe I'll hold out to buy one on the drive home from Seattle in a couple weeks.
  5. Heartbeat1991

    Seat Belt Buckle

    I am looking for a TGP tan rear seat female seat belt buckle. Anyone have one they can part with?
  6. Hello all, I am wondering if anyone can direct me to where the rear power window fuse/relays are? I knew that the passenger side rear windows motor was probably on its way out (it was going up and down slowly), the drivers side rear window operated very smoothly...now all of a sudden neither window will go down no matter if I push the main controls near the drivers seat or the controls for each window in the backseat...I'm not sure what the issue could be...Iocated the fuse panel (inside the glove box) and also both fuse panels underneath the hood, however, I am not seeing anything in regards to the rear power windows. Is there any other place that there may be a fuse box located? When I push the buttons from the drivers seat all I seem to hear is a "clicking" sound and that's it...I'm sure that both motors couldn't have just gone out at the same time without warning...am I missing something? Thanks in advance. Trey
  7. Hi everyone. I want to say thank you to all of you who have helped me directly and indirectly over the years with keeping my vehicles on the road. The reason for this thread is that I almost lost my family in an accident yesterday. Someone decided to blow through a stop sign and T-bone my car with 4 passengers and myself in it. We were all shaken up but my sister-in-law got the full brunt of the pickup. I tried to pound the gas to avoid him (Red Explorer) but it was too late. She was released from the hospital last night with no broken bones or internal injuries other than taking a 4000lb-plus-line-backer to the side. My girlfriend was in the front passenger seat is a bit beat up and her daughter was in the rear sitting on the hump with my cousin sitting behind me. I was doing 45kph down an incline and he was doing 20-30kph accelerating into me and the impact spun me 180* through the intersection. I may shit on GM products but I have to say that if it wasn't for the stance, fat arse and beefy build of this car (apparently there was a rollover last year with the same intersection in the same fashion). Things would be much worse. Take care everyone and thanks for everything. I am happy that I have family alive and well on both sides of the monitor. =) Cheers -Steve
  8. biggyfries

    Upholstery disassembly??

    I have a 94 Culass Convert with ultra low miles, its loaded with the 3.4 engine, and it is a jewel, but it was driven by the previous owner's 16yo son, and he allowed a lot of things to go haywire, --I have been addressing the flaws one at a time and the next item on my list is to fix the driver's seat cover. It is showing very little wear on the usual spots on the edges of the bolsters of the seat, but oddly the small horizontal seam at the top of the seat-back has come unstitched. What I'd like to do is separate the seat back from the seat cushion. I presume the hinge can be taken apart or separated in some way. Once I have the seat halves separated I want to remove the leather seatback uphostery, turn it inside out and re-stitch the seam by hand (many years ago I was a leather worker hobbyist and made many nice items by stitching by hand) So who can tell me how to take the seat apart to that point so I can work on the seat back itself? Can I remove it from the seat cushion by simply prying the hinge apart, leaving the lower cushion bolted in place? I would go out and try to figure it out myself but its raining and the car is in a garage elsewhere. I hope someone has taken the upholstery apart and knows how to do this job. Any advice will be appreciated.
  9. So I recently acquired Luminapower92s Maui blue Z34 and am in the process of putting the interior back together and j/y around here have apparently ran out of early 90s 2 door w-bodies to pilfer parts from, specifically luminas. So here is what I am currently after at the moment: Gray carpet in decent shape Center console (grey) Ill add more as I need it, but these are the essentials I need to get the interior back together. TIA
  10. Jackisback

    New Guy

    Hi Good people. I'm new to this. See what I can learn and teach what I know . At this time I had 3 Gp a 94 se 2door a 95 gtp 2 door and a 96 gtp 2 door all white. My 94 I had the longest. I put in a later 3.4 ohv motor and been driving it about two years. My 95 got from a kid who needed to sell because it was not running and he was moving and needed it gone.Runs good now but needs work. 96 I just got Was sold for scrap because of broken door handles and the owner father didn't like her racing it.Its the cleanest one of the three. Leather seat are bad but it runs like new and drives great. Got to get to sleep now will check back soon.Happy motoring to all:dance:
  11. HEMI-V8

    Unknown wire under passenger seat

    Hey guys. Today I had the demand to clean the carpet under the seats and additional cleaning and lube the seat mechanic. So on the passenger side I have seen a unknown cutted wire with full voltage on. Does anybody know for what this wire is ? It is stock ? Thank´s. Johannes from germany.
  12. Hi everyone. I have a '92 Cutlass Convertible. Late last year the battery began getting weak. After recharging a couple times, the battery finally wouldn't even hold a charge - that was late-January. The battery was almost five years old and had a useful life, so I bought a new one. No problems...until just a few days ago. I don't drive the Cutlass everyday as we have two other vehicles, so after a couple days of sitting, the car cranked slowly for a second before starting. Obviously, the new battery was getting weak! There are no obvious signs of a parasitic leak (no hood or truck light stuck on, no interior lights, etc.). I did a parasitic drain test today with my multimeter. At first, I was running around 1.50 amps. I disconnected the cables to the driver's side keyhole light and the seat belt connectors and it dropped to around .77 amps. Here's what's strange: opening and closing the door would give me different readings. Sometimes it was around .77 amps, then other times it was around .01 amps. I figured the switch in the door jamb might be bad, so I cleaned it up real good. Still, I'm getting around .75 amps most of the time, but sometimes .01 amps, changing as I open and close the door. Do you think the door jamb switch is bad? There doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong if it's clean - it's a simple switch. Any other ideas on what's causing the intermittent drain? If I pull the ELEC and CTSY fuses, I get .01 amps all the time. Thanks.
  13. Not pleased...not pleased at all. Filled with ineffectual rage, like Ben Stiller in the first part of Mystery Men... So, I'm about to go to work late due to snow...and I decide to wait for the plow to finish on my cul-de-sac street before I go...and while turning around, the freaking truck backs into my windshield! Drivers side, knocks hole in it...messes up windshield trim as well, and also screws up the top door edge black trim as well as putting a minor dent on the edge of the door frame. Glass on the dash and floor...seat...door panel. Cardboard over the hole for now. So...is that door trim the same piece on all 1st gen W coupes? Anyone have a black piece that will fit a 94 Regal GS coupe?
  14. 92cutlasssupreme3.1

    Backup lights

    Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the shift lever slightly passed its seat will activate them. Issue within the last few weeks. Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  15. 92cutlasssupreme3.1

    Backup lights

    Hello W body family. 92 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme, 3.1L. 161,123 miles >The column shift only sometimes activates my backup lights. I found that tapping, wiggling or holding the column shift lever activates them... Do you know what I need to do to fix this? Switch in column? or on trans? Thanks. Joe.
  16. Was wondering if some 2000-2005 2nd Gen Monte Carlo seats will direct swap into my 2000 Buick Century 2nd Gen? I've found a great deal on some and I want to make sure they'll fit before I press the GO button.
  17. pwmin

    Heated Seat Issue

    The switch seems to work just fine as it lights up and all that, but I'm not getting and significant heat from my seat heaters. What would be the best thing to look at to try and figure it out? Is there a common problem with these? It had a code when I first bought it, but it had other BCM codes that went away when I put a proper battery in it and I erased all of them.
  18. So I finally felt froggy this weekend and decided to take off the interior door panel of my 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE while the door was still closed. That was fun. After playing around for a while with the inner and outer rods to open the door I discovered that I need a new latch/lock assembly, a new exterior door handle rod and just to even things out a new exterior door handle. BTW, I have electrics locks and windows. My first question is, is there a way to take out the inner metal skin from the outer metal skin so I can get to the inner workings of the door easier? I was taking a closer look and it appears that the two are welded together. I already know that I'm going to have to remove the seat belt assembly. Tanks for any info in advance.
  19. cdn_olds_94

    New guy from Canada...

    Hi all. My name is Douglas, and I've just aquired a 1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible. She's a solid car that was in storage for the last year. It's missing the boot cover and a rear ash tray from the right rear seat. I'm hopping that I can find the missing parts on this board and get some help and make some new friends along the way. Will post some pictures later. Thanks for letting me join the fun. Douglas.
  20. Hello all! I finally decided to ditch the car payment and daily drive my black TGP. I've had the car since 2006 when I acquired it from family in the Seattle area. It was in FL (2008) briefly, but has since been in my parent's garage in IA. I originally bought hoping it would appreciate but we all know how that has gone.............. In September its relocating to Portland, OR. So instead of letting it sit, I'm going to drive it and sell when I can get an acceptable price. Its stock with the exception of a TGP 160 and K&N cone. It gets driven every few months in good weather and regular maintenance. It currently has about 53k. Only 2 issues: the tach and speedo gauges are off in reading the ABS light is on (its on its 2nd PM3, light has happened before but has gone off after driving a few weeks) we'll see when it gets out here You can see some 2008 photos in my album, hasn't changed since then. I'm sure I'll be on here regularly viewing and look forward to working with you!
  21. Mark 97 Cutlass Coupe

    Convertible back seat question

    Is the bucket seat/full seat rear seat set up an option, or year specific? I think every 95 has a full seat, but I just saw a 93 on ebay with a full rear seat. Is the rear trim on the quarter panels the same regardless of seat style? So, could you change the buckets to a full rear seat just using a coupe rear seat? Thanks.
  22. CDN

    Seat questions

    My lumina is in need of a driver seat replacement, had a nice big tear in it when I got her and the foam is pretty shot as well. From what I have been reading, it is possible to use a passenger seat in place of the driver's seat. My first question is in a 99 Lumina, is it a simple matter of unbolt old driver's seat and drop in a passenger's seat? If not, do I have to swap the hardware under the seats or something? I know this has been asked before but I just want to make sure that I'm reading things right. If it's as simple as it sounds, not counting a stubborn nut or something, might be a easy enough project to take care of when I have some downtime. Thanks ~Ryan
  23. I have another post going concerning identifying the wires for the power driver seat from a 1997 Grand Prix http://www.w-body.com/forum/index.php?topic=83026.0 It took a bit of looking but I found the owners manual online and discovered the seat has lumbar support I have 6 wires going to the seat wiring harness 2 are larger gauge black and orange and when I put 12v to them, the "up/down/front/back" worked There are four additional small gauge wires: pink, light blue, black w/white stripe, and smaller orange If you figure lumbar support and the seat belt warning minimum, I might also have heated seats! If anyone has the wiring diagram, it would be GREATLY appreciated if you could help me figure this out Thanx in advance Paul
  24. I want to change my 3.4 to a 3.1 in my 1993 Grand Prix GTP. Does any body know what I need to do this? My 3.4's valve seat dropped with only 29,000 on it and did a lot of damage. It was installed seven years ago and is a Jasper remanufactured engine. So I' am looking to have a 3.1 installed, something a little easier to work on. I need some advice on the matter so if you can help I would appreciate. Thanks
  25. northcarolinaman

    Seat Belt Buckle for Lumina Z34

    The seat belt buckle on my Lumina Z34 works "sometimes". I think I may need a new one (light gray with red plastic button at the top). Can anyone give me any advice on how to fix this one or find one in good condition? Thanks, Tom
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