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Found 909 results

  1. This has been mentioned but never really discussed. A straight answer hasn't really been provided. I'm writing this for my Jaguar, but I think it has plenty of merit with our cars as well since many people install transmission coolers. There are 3 possible scenarios here. 1. Use the built-in transmission cooler in the radiator 2. Route the transmission cooler lines from the radiator, to the aux trans cooler, and back to the trans 3. Bypass the radiator and go straight to the aux trans cooler Obviously, we know that our transmissions heat up to the point where the stock radiator is not enough to cool them. Buck reported that under heavy driving, his 05 GTP's 4T65E-HD would hit 260 degrees F. We also know that heat kills transmissions, and that temperature is rather high. Therefore, it can be assumed that the stock radiator is insufficient in cooling the transmission. This is primarily because it cannot cool the transmission below what the temperature of the radiator is, which during a typical summer day will sit nicely around 190 degrees F. IIRC, our w-bodies won't switch on the primary fan until the temperature reaches 235 degrees F. Correct me if I'm wrong here. The transmission will only get hotter than that. If one routes the transmission cooler lines through the radiator and then to the aux trans cooler, the radiator does some slight bit of cooling, and the transmission cooler does the bulk of the cooling thereafter. In my experiences, with a large transmission cooler flush mounted to the condenser, the engine could be running at even 220 degrees F, and the transmission will stay steady at 190 degrees, so the cooler is obviously making a big difference. Obviously its less than ideal to flush mount the transmission cooler, and I'm working on that. My concern with this approach is that the transmission can potentially be cooler using only the aux transmission cooler, which brings me to my next point. How cold is too cold? I've read that someone called valvoline to ask them that question, and the response was flat out "30 degrees F." I'm not sure how much validity there is to that claim, since I've also heard from around here that you can run a transmission too cold. Well how cold is too cold? I don't want to hear guesses here, but rather constructive feedback. Would it be detrimental to bypass the radiator entirely and have the aux trans cooler take care of all of the cooling? Has anyone done this and reported back on their temperature readings in different conditions? Another thing to consider with this approach is that the car itself will run cooler as a result of not having the heat of the transmission lines going through it. In regard to the aux trans cooler, I'm referring heavy duty coolers in the $50-$60 range, built for RV's.
  2. Pictures speak for themselves: The task really wasn't that hard, just took my time. I strongly believe there is no way you can get the center axle nut off without an impact. It wouldnt budge with a 24 inch breaker but the impact twisted it off in about 45 seconds. I then used a two jaw puller from harbor freight ($13 for three) to push the axle out of the wheel bearing. Of course I sprayed everything down with PB blaster the night before to help with the rust. Since the spring is shaped like a cone I used two sets of spring compressors because I was paranoid. Here is how much I had to compress the spring to get the upper mount back on. If you have an impact, you don't need the special tool, just beat up on it with your 15/16 socket. I reused the isolator as it looked just fine to me. Getting the assembly out I was able to do just fine by myself, but since I'm not a big guy I needed a helper to get it back into the wheel well. Once I got the upper mount in it was a one person job again. If you're unsure about your bearing plate, I found a good test to be when the car is on the ground, grab the bearing plate and try to turn it side to side. It should move about 3/4 of an inch side to side. My drivers side was frozen solid, passenger moved freely like the new one does. Oh one final thing, before I started I made numerious marks with a sharpie on the spring, isolators, mounts and strut assembly so I could line everything up the first time. I'm sure I would have been pretty pissed if I had to do something over. What it looks like with the assembly out
  3. Please circle November 1st, 2014 in your calendar, that will be the last day to submit pictures. As per usual ediquette, if you have your car featured in the calendar you are expected to be buying one. I am looking into options for uber-big, uber-glossy calendars or the standard: Cafe Press regular calendars. More announcements & details to come along with an address to submit your photos to. Due to the rather large collection of photos that I have if you want one of my pics of your car (not someone elses), just contact me with the picture name. They are all numbered if you save one from the meet threads.
  4. I was thinking about adding a trans kit to my 4t60e. Any big benefits? http://www.transgo.com/products.php?prd=SK-4T60E-JR&homeinclude=catalog&category_id=105&parent_id=31&countdisplay=&start=&addcountview=Yes&product_id=220&prod_start=0
  5. First, I'd like to start off by thanking everyone that came out to the last meet despite the crappy weather. Think all but 1 person from the attendees list showed. That being said....mother nature owes us one big time. For that reason, I'm going to put together another Herrick Lake cookout meet real quick to hopefully make up for the weather disaster from this last one. How does June 27 work? Edit: June 27th is now confirmed. Official thread is here: http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/81416-Northern-IL-w-body-meet-XLIX-(Herrick-Lake-Wheaton)-June-27 Please remember to bring $5 to contribute to the cost of food and supplies.
  6. I got the basic Safe and Sound On-Star package on my 2008 LaCrosse. It started at 18.95 a month, then it went to 19.95 a month, and I just glanced at my statement and it has gone to 24.95 a month. I thought that maybe I hit the wrong button on line and accidentally updated. Nope. They have revised the plans and enhanced the basic one. That's a 25% increase - that's fairly drastic. Do you have On-Star? Any suggestions as to whether to keep it or drop it? I have AAA as it is.
  7. This is the big 3800 Gathering Meet in Greater Detroit Area. Admission is $10 - per vehicle. (Donated to Leader Dogs for the Blind Charity) Washrooms on site, admission is per vehicle. There is parking for non-W's or 3800 cars, it is across the street in a dirt lot. Location: 3500 Marais Ave. Royal Oak, MI 48073. They have prizes that you can buy tickets for, along with a hot dog cart type of vendor, and parking for approx. 150-200 W-body or 3800 vehicles, there's a thread in the pics section with some of my pics from last year. They also had a DJ, same thing (more strict than our meets absolutely no burnouts, but insanely well organized) http://www.wbody3800gathering.com/ Last year we got a group rate at a pretty decent hotel for around $80 a night, there was Friday night festviities too, and those of us who stayed at the hotel were up till around 5-6am on Sunday morning/Saturday night. Much of the group went to Woodward as well late night. I've already made my feelings clear on it to several individuals in our group, but I will re-state. We need to either steer clear of this weekend for our big meet, or merge with this meet for our big meet in June. Plan on arriving early, if last year is any indication, you will not be able to find parking for your Space Bobby car in the main lot after 12:00pm or so. Hope to see lots of people there.
  8. The front bumper has quite a bit of damage on my GP and the hood also has a big spot that needs attention. In order to address this and hopefully add some "flair", I am going to plasti-dip some hood/bumper stripes. If I like them enough, I might paint them. I took some pictures of possible stripes and am looking for some input on what anyone thinks will look best or if anyone has any suggestions. There's a good amount of gouges in the middle of the bumper, but on the passenger side, some damage extends to around where the middle of "PONTIAC" would be, so I'm trying to cover as much of that as possible. Please look at the pictures and tell me what you think. I know the lines aren't perfect, but I'll make sure they are before I plasti-dip it.
  9. Hello everyone, i am new to the site but I wanted to everyone know i am into Oldsmobile cars and parts big time, i own 4 cutlass supreme Convertibles ranging from 92 to95 and i have a lot of parts also have 4 coupes from 94 ,95,96 also lots of parts for them as well, reach out to me if you need anything mrfixit6886@hotmail.com
  10. A few months ago I purchased a 1994 Cutlass Supreme SL from a guy in Palmerton, PA. My first car was a 2002 Olds Alero sedan, had many memories in that little thing. Crashed into a tree and then I didn't have a car for a while, then graduation present time? Nope just one big one from my uncle and I got a 1997 GTI vr6, and man let me tell you what... ALWAYS LISTEN TO THE WISE. My father kept telling me it's not going to be worth it, but it's my dream car, why turn it down? Drove it for about 3 days out of the 9 months I had it due to repairs and the mechanic working about as slow as a rock. I love my cutlass and I hope to learn while on this forum.
  11. First off, anyone know the stock offset for the 17" and 18" wheels? I'm thinking about getting some 18's for the GP for summer. I would have to beat the rear fender lip in like i did on the Regal so the xlaces don't hit on big bumps, but not sure I want to do that to this car. Other option would be to have them machined for less offset, but would like something bigger. Even 18's don't look that big in the pictures I've seen. Plus I wouldn't mind going back to stock tire height since there still is a little wheel gap even with the lowering springs and I was told that if you change tire size in the computer on these that it'll mess up cruise. I don't really use it much, but I think that's a good compromise. I hate not having my speedo working correctly. I haven't looked a whole lot yet, but have looked at tire rack and discount tire and found pictures of 077's on them, but haven't really found anything I like yet and not sure I like 077's on them. I like them on 5th & 6th gens for sure. Anyone have any suggestions? I think I want polished wheels instead of black wheels, but I definitely don't want chrome or silver.
  12. I've got a 2008 base Buick LaCrosse with a 3800 Series III V6 and under 50,000 miles. I got an oil change last week. The next day, the check engine light went on. I was wondering what they might have messed with at the dealership that possibly loosened a connection or knocked out a sensor. It was purely a coincidence. I went to an auto parts store. They scanned it with the OBD II device as a courtesy and it kicked out code p0128. This means "Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature." I was thinking that, most likely, I would be replacing the ECT sensor (not an expensive sensor) or the thermostat was stuck open. Tonight, when I drove off, the checking engine light went off. And it has stayed off. When the light went on, we had had a cold snap. Today, it was about 20 degrees F warmer outside. I'm wondering if this had anything to do with it and if I can ignore the issue. What do you think? Have you had check engine lights that came off and then sort of went away? Also, have you heard of this particular issue and could it have been caused a big drop in the temperature outside?
  13. At this point I'm gathering interest. Of course our guest of honour will have to be healthy enough to make the trip. This November AMY will be turning 20 years young, and I want to celebrate. Considering a trip down to Erie. Same as usual stuff, Quaker & Steak 'n Lube (We might have to make a side trip and do some photos @ Nunzi's), I think that it's more of a sit-down and eat place whereas Quaker Steak won't mind people arriving to our party late and gradually. After or before Quaker Steak, we'll visit the infamous Big Woodie's Fireworks and Karate Supply store in desperate hopes of finding Al a new shirt. Hopefully this T-shirt has Big Woodie himself on it!! Then it's off to the Erie Insurance Arena - which I can assure just about all of you . . . will be nearly unrecognizable when we visit due to an insane amount of renovations, yes this would involve going to a hockey game. Can't make any promises, but we may run into Red Mustang Nunzi while there!! More details/confirmations to follow.
  14. Rather nervous here. I just had a big shock! The car is the 91 Regal Coupe I've posted about recently. It has a 3.1L multiport F engine, as written on what I understand to be the rear valve cover on top of the engine. I was tidying up the front lamp wiring, and was turning on the ignition (not running the engine) and the lamps to check stuff as I proceeded. Then I'd turn everything off and disconnect the battery. During one check (ignition on/parking lamps activated) there was a very loud bang in front of me, followed by smoke coming up from under the rear valve cover. I disconnected the battery very quickly, and just stood there in shock. It's not my car. When my heart rate had settled down, I connected the battery. The ignition and parking lamps were still on, just as before the bang. I went to start the engine.........it fired up no problem, running as sweet as ever. I left it it that and came in here for help. I haven't tested anything else yet. If anyone can suggest what might have happened, I'd be extremely grateful. I have no idea at all why this happened, or what might now be toast. There are some wires which run under the valve cover, so I checked the Haynes manual for enlightenment.........no joy there. Mainly, I'd like to know what electronic component(s) is/are under that valve cover. If I have to remove it I will, but would really rather not .
  15. So this is my third time spray painting something on a vehicle. My last project was the hood of my Jeep which came out decent and now the GP. I used rustoleum clean metal primer, flat black color and clear. I must have done something wrong in a couple spots I have some small cracks in the color that developed after sanding it...I couldn't reach the center of the roof very well, sanding there became difficult. Which left speckle/orange peel towards the center roof area and along the edge line (I got tired/lazy). Everything was done by hand which is very tiring. I also made a rather big mistake as I did not mask off the weatherstripping along the door/roof...whoops. Two flakes of old stripped paint flew up from in the weatherstripping, couldn't sand it out without burning through primer, so I decided to leave it. Turned out decent for a rattle can job took about 2hrs a day start week. I'm going to repaint the hood/louvers in a few weeks which should be easier as I don't have to tape off as much, though I don't know how to go about painting the louvers, yet. I'm guessing plastic paint?
  16. This morning I took my Regal out. It's a 96 coupe with approx. 67K on it. A couple of miles from the house it started loosing power and stumbling. So I did a U turn and headed home. On the way home I noticed that it would act like it wanted to shift hesitate and not shift, then do it again, and again ,and again. It would finally shifted at approx. 5k. And took forever for it to get there. When I got home I pulled the plug wires off of the coilpacks and noticed the bottom tower on the second and third coil was really corroded badly. I cleaned them up the best I can and took it for another drive. It ran good for the first 1/4-1/2 mile. Then it started the same thing. I'm going to replace the coilpacks and wires. Is this the shifting problem also? Or is the shifting problem the big problem and I found the bad coils in the process? And they are two separate problems? Thanks
  17. Hi all, I own a chevy lumina for 4 yrs. My oldest daugheter drove it 2 years and now her sis will drive it 2 more; Work done to it: New spark plugs/wires,transmission fluid/filter,new IAC,LIM gasket,dummy plug o ring,fuel injector o rings,2 new headlights,new taillight,new alternator, big group 78 battery,new belts/hoses,and 4 new yokohama tires. Bought from inlaws w/ 96000 now has 105000. I also have a 2012 toyota highlander and a 2007 toyotoa yaris. I also have a "fun" vehicle a 1999 dodge dakota club cab R/T w/ 55000 org miles. Lot of work done to the dakota too! The toyotas have been fine. Minimal work done to them.
  18. This week for my car has been a big problem, first I need to change a motor mount, next the engine started to run rough and now the high pressure power steering hose is leaking. So todays question is is there an easy way to change the high pressure power steering hose on the 3.4 dohc engine.
  19. CDN

    Seat questions

    My lumina is in need of a driver seat replacement, had a nice big tear in it when I got her and the foam is pretty shot as well. From what I have been reading, it is possible to use a passenger seat in place of the driver's seat. My first question is in a 99 Lumina, is it a simple matter of unbolt old driver's seat and drop in a passenger's seat? If not, do I have to swap the hardware under the seats or something? I know this has been asked before but I just want to make sure that I'm reading things right. If it's as simple as it sounds, not counting a stubborn nut or something, might be a easy enough project to take care of when I have some downtime. Thanks ~Ryan
  20. Just saw this thread where a guy with a 2000 Impala put C5 Corvette calipers on it. http://www.w-body.com/showthread.php/53204-2G-quot-Big-Brake-quot-Upgrades/page2 I have a spare set of C5 calipers in my garage (doesn't everybody??) and would love to use them on my '92. If I upgraded to Gen2 front spindles, which I've been planning to do for the past year already, would there be a bracket that would work to mount a C5 caliper? Thanks, DD
  21. I al now attempting on getting my fog light working in my car since I have never seen them work before. While finding out that my horn fuse blew I came across the fog light relay and I decided to check it out. When I flick the switch I hear the relay being thrown. Seeing that this portion of the fog light system works I am hoping that its just the bulbs that are burnt out all this time, probably for the past ten years. What I am wondering is how hard is it to change the bulbs as well as changing one of the fixtures? Are the fog lights on the 4 Dr models the same as the 2 Dr models? The glass lens on my driver side fixture is cracked. If that's all that is wrong with the fog lights ill be a happy camper. On that note how big is the difference with the fog lights being on as opposed to them being off or in my case broken? I am hoping that changing the bulbs in these are a lot easier then changing out headlight bulbs, what a mess that was. Also does anyone have experience in using LED bulbs in the high mount center brake light? I don't want to spend $10 per bulb for the normal ones.
  22. darkwolf45

    Crap

    So, I was driving my Cutlass last friday. Went to work, no issues. Ran a quick errand after work, nothing out of the ordinary. Headed over to the gym, perfect as always. Left the gym, turned the key, and the engine stuttered heavily for about 3 seconds and that was it. She would't turn over anymore. I had to tow it up to a mechanic I can trust, which was a colossal pain- took an hour to check out the dolly I had reserved the night before, and as luck would have it, the cable puller was justa few inches too short to hook up to the dolly and the car... With some help I finally got it loaded and started my trek out of the cities to get it looked at. Got there, and unloading it off the dolly the underside of the front bumper was scraped up pretty bad. In any event, we disengaged the starter motor and tried to manually turn the crankshaft, which would only go a quarter each direction... At this point, my best hope is that the timing chain broke. I don't have the know how to fix it myself, but more importantly I don't have the equipment to do it, so with the mechanic is stays while he takes it apart. If it's a timing chain, that's not a big deal, I can work with that, but if it's something worse, like a broken rod or something... Jebus.. Mechanic wants over $4k for a rebuilt engine, maybe $2300 for a used one. That is a bit out of my price range. I love this car to death, and have poured my blood sweat and tears into making it live again, but I don't know that I can put that kind of money into it.
  23. LukeZ34

    Hinge pins

    Any other convertible owners having problems with their doors closing? My drivers side door acts like the hinge pins bent or something. It closes hard, and opens hard, and it's scraping off the paint on the lower molding of the car. So it's certaintly sagging, but how do you go about fixing this? I'm compiling a big list of things I need to do to the car. When and if I sell the sammy, I'm gonna use that money on the cutlass to get it fixed up.
  24. "Sold" my one of my w body's on eBay yesterday, I haven't heard a pep from the buyer. I've made some big purchases and sold some big$$ items on eBay with mostly good success, and I've always made or had immediate contact after the sale. I have another person interested in the car with cash in hand, how long do I wait before I bail on the eBay sale? I know eBay has guidelines abt this subject, but I put deposit immediately after auction and ain't heard a thing. Thoughts?
  25. A little pissed off, thought the Regal came back with excess neg camber and now I realized today one of my rear tires is shot. So I'm going to order the rear adjustment tool so they can do it right. I understand it's for toe but it'll show them that there's adjustment to be had. The big question is which brand is better? The Northstar brand: Or the Goodson: The Northstar is three bucks more after shipping than the Northstar.
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