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Found 1,422 results

  1. I needed a new battery for a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass with the 3.4 L engine. the "book" called for a group size 78 battery. The battery is 10 3/16" long, and fits in the tray, but there doesn't seem to be enough room for the windshield washer fluid container, which fits over the battery. I cannot seem to wedge the washer fluid container into position. The previous owner had a smaller battery in the car, probably a group 75, which is 9 1/16" long, and I was able to get the washer fluid container in the car with no problems using that battery. Was I spoiled by the smaller battery, and gave up to easily when the washer fluid tank wouldn't go back in place with the bigger battery? Are you supposed to "work the washer container" a bit to get it in place, or is a group size 78 battery too big for this space?
  2. I've got a '95 Olds Cutlass Supreme with an L67. I have cooling fans from a 2000 GTP on it; however, I'm a bit baffled about the way they operate. Both fans run on the low-speed setting. On the high speed setting, only the fan on the passenger's side runs. Is this correct? I checked the voltage on the driver's side fan motor, and it drops to 0 when on the high speed setting. It seems like both fans should run on the high speed setting to me (although I do not know the way the system works). I have had cooling problems with this thing since I put it together last August. It stays cool as long as it's not idling still for >20-30 min. I just replaced the original 3.1 radiator with a radiator with 3 additional rows (when counting vertically). The core of my original radiator was 34 rows tall, while the newly installed one was 37. The radiator shop I purchased the radiator from claims that these 3 additional rows provide the same cooling efficiency with the stock 5/8 inch core width as a radiator with the stock number of vertical rows (34) with a 1 inch core width. This new radiator did help the problem, but I would still rather have both fans running on the high speed setting. That would ameliorate it completely I think. Have you guys with stock early 2000s GTPs observed the way the fans work? Thanks, Andy
  3. I have a 91 GTP 5 speed that has a couple of problems. First is that it dies if the rpms are somewhat high and I suddenly press the clutch. It basically goes from whatever rpms it was on to 0 rpms and dies. The second one is that once it dies after 2 or 3 times the engine is pretty slow cranking up and will eventually not start. Looks and sound like if the battery was dying. I have replaced the battery and starter, checked the alternator and it shows okay. What could be the problem? I'm hoping that someone here has had the same issues
  4. ive got a 93 lumina with ac problems wont blow cold air, ac compressor seems to engage but secondary fan wont run when ac is engaged would that be a problem ? someone told me the fan should engage when ac is turned on or possible relay problem and therfore system wont run and cool .....any help with this trying to do what I can before taking to shop and getting screwed for something simple .
  5. Hi: My 2008 LaCrosse CX came with all the power accessories on it (windows, locks, seats). My early 90s Regal did not (the locks were standard, but mine had manual windows and manual seats). I didn't want to deal with any hassles. My 84 Cutlass Supreme (RWD) had several problems with both the power windows and the power seat as it got older and I was not at all happy with that. Have the power accessories on W-bodies gotten better and more reliable? I would think so. Now even more basic cars like Chevy Cruzes and Ford Focuses come with power windows standard. Any feedback from folks with W-bodies from 1995 to 2005 as to how power accessories which you couldn't work around manually (such as windows) have been holding up? Thanks.
  6. I have a 1992 Cutlass Supreme S with the base model digital instrument cluster without the tachometer. It is flickering on and off, and some times just stays off and some times it works fine. It's going to need repair or replaced since these clusters are known to have problems. Can anybody recommend a repair facility that is able to repair the cluster? I will be able to remove the cluster myself and install it. When I bought the Cutlass , the owner told me that the cluster needed repair, and that he had bought a cluster, and tried to fix it, but it did not work. He gave me the spare cluster when I purchased the car. I just took a good look at it, and I know why it did not work. It is the international version cluster with tachometer made in Japan by Denso. I guess I can try to sell the international cluster to somebody that needs one because I don't want to go through all the hassle of rewiring and adapters.
  7. Recently had multiple problems with windshield wipers and washer motor on 1992 Lumina Euro 3.4. I think this should apply to all '94--older W bodies, though. Last fall, the windshield washers quit squirting fluid. I ignored it. Figured the washer fluid was empty, or frozen, and "I'll fix it later". Sometime in January, the wipers quit working. OK, that got my attention. Family matters kept me from fixing the problem--too busy flying back and forth to California to work on the car. Car is now fixed, photos re-sized and hosted, etc. Time for the write-up. Fixed wipers first. Wiring was intermittent at the wiper switch. Remove under-dash panels, remove steering wheel, remove "turn signal" stalk, remove "Hazard Flasher" button, remove horn contacts, pop three screws. Worst part is routing the wire harness under the steering column, and even that isn't too bad. Result: Wipers work, even on delay/pulse. WASHER still does not spray fluid. Replacement wiper switch came from NAPA, Test WASHER motor. Seized. I can apply power and ground to the motor, the motor does not turn or pump. Scavenge tested-good WASHER motor (and washer bottle) from another vehicle. WASHER still does not work. Check for power and ground at two-wire harness connector for washer pump, near battery. Ground is OK, but there is no power to the motor when the washer switch on the "turn signal" stalk is rotated. Turns out that the WIPER motor is also used to pass-through the power to the WASHER motor. If the circuit board for the WIPER motor is defective, the circuit for the WASHER motor can be incomplete. The circuit board is discontinued by GM. I cannot find a source for rebuilt or aftermarket WIPER circuit boards. Rebuilt WIPER motors do not ship with the circuit board. The circuit board is Treasure Yard Only so far as I can tell. Theory: Defective WASHER motor led to failure of electronic components on WIPER motor circuit board. Went to the Treasure Yard looking for a WIPER motor and circuit board. They sell the wiper motor only as an assembly with the wiper transmission and mounting bracket as an assembly. Discover that the wiper motor (with delay wipers) may be interchangeable from '89 to '98 on some W-bodies, but the TRANSMISSION IS DIFFERENT. Treasure Yard sells me a wiper motor/wiper transmission assembly from a 1995 vehicle. I am fixing a '92. Removal of WIPER motor/transmission from '92: 1. Remove wiper arms by removing plastic cover over pivot. Remove nut holding arm. Remove hose for washer from nearby nipple. Wiper arm may be lifted, and a small drill bit installed through slot near hinge so that arm is held up away from glass. I used an adjustable battery terminal puller to get arm to release from tapered, splined pivot shaft. Wiper arms then lift off of pivot shaft. Helps to have the hood about half-way open. 2. Remove two plastic retainers (straight-blade screwdriver), and a small fistful of sheet metal screws from black-painted metal trim piece. Trim piece also has "rubber" seal to windshield that is often damaged by windshield wipers. Black paint typically flakes off, can be easily cleaned and re-painted. 3. Remove small fistful of sheet-metal screws from black plastic "grille" that screens air for heater/defroster. Disconnect washer hose from nipple on firewall. Remove "grille" assembly. Careful, it's likely to fold-up in the middle. Mine was already broken from clumsy windshield installer years ago. 4. Remove two or (maybe) three screws from black plastic shield over wiper transmission. Shield protects the actual air entry for the blower fan, so that rainwater coming off of windshield doesn't enter passenger compartment via the blower fan. 5. Remove two electrical connectors from wiper motor. They are locked in place with two green tabs which have to come out before the connectors can be unlatched. 6. Remove six bolts through the six rubber grommets of the wiper transmission. 7. Cleverly twist/lift/yank the wiper motor and transmission from vehicle. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. (I've always wanted to say that.) Original wiper motor dated [19]"92 012". New wiper motor dated "04 04 [19]95" And again, on the motor itself: 92, and the part number also. Newer motor, different part number, but completely interchangeable with the '92 motor. I put the '95 motor/circuit board onto the '92 transmission. Fits and works wonderfully. So again, the wiper motor interchanges, but the transmission does NOT. Cover, nut, and washer hose to be removed. Plastic retainer for metal shield (one of two retainers) Washer motor and power connector. Blue wire is ground, red wire is power. [i have at least one more photo to post, and perhaps adding some additional info--but--I wanted to get this started while I had some time.]
  8. I have a 97 GTP that has had 3 different motors put in after the original started knocking. All the other three also started knocking but the second engine lasted a week, the other two not even a day. I don't know what the problem is. I don't believe all three engines were bad from the junkyard could they?. What could possibly be the problem? It's causing my mechanic too much work. And me too much waiting. I would really appreciate any feedback as to what the problem could be.
  9. So late last year (2014), I had to several fixes all at once on my '95 GP SE. New hoses new radiator new alternator and a couple of small things here and there. I got all the parts and completed everything in a weekend. Afterwards, she was running just like she was before only with no leaking and more power <grunt, grunt, grunt>. Then I noticed my gas mileage dropping like a rock. I went from an avg of 22mpg to around 18mpg. At first I was baffled how anything I replaced could affect mileage so I did some research and couldn't really find anything. I even went and had the plugs and wires replaced. It was dead of winter in Michigan and I don't have access to a garage. I decided to tackle the simplest thing first. I had replaced my gad cap with a locking unit. So I decided to put the old one(original) back on, wait and see what happened. First tank of gas, my mileage jumped back up to about 19 mpg. After a while it has continuously climbed and is now around 21.59 mpg. Of course it all depends on my driving habits and stop and go traffic vs highway. So it just goes to show you, check the simple things first. Or Keep It Simple Stupid. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
  10. I came across an issue recently which has left me with some questions. My friend has a 2001 Impala 3800. We replaced the motor when he got it and replaced many gaskets including from the LIM up. This was a handful of years ago and used plastic gaskets. I later did another LIM gasket job on a 97 LeSabre when my mother bought the car, knowing of the gasket issues and at that time used the Fel-Pro metal gasket and using Haynes manual torque specs. Fast forward to today when my friend tore apart the intakes on the Impala to find trouble with the LIM itself. After sitting for ~2 years, the car had even more problems than when it was parked. The LIM gaskets were plastic on the outside with whatever synthetic rubber gasket in the middle and more plastic in the middle. This plastic swells and bows inward, pulling the gasket material with it. I guess from the car sitting so long, the nasty old coolant eroded the LIM around one of the coolant ports and had to be replaced because it would never seal again. Today at the junkyard while grabbing an injector the car had aluminum LIM gaskets which turned out to be the Delco's. Now these Delco gaskets have the same fatal flaw as the other gaskets! They have plastic on the inside around the ports that showed swelling around the coolant ports. It has been so long since I did the Fel-Pro's on the LeSabre that I don't remember it having plastic inside, and I can't really tell by pics, it just looks all black. So here is the burning question - Is there a change in torque spec for the metal gaskets? I know on the 3500 LX9 it had little metal inserts around the bolt holes to avoid over torquing, but I really don't remember if they changed the torque spec there either. The car we unbolted at the junkyard had bolts on fairly tight (no thread locker), whereas all of the other LIM jobs I have done had many bolts roughly finger tight (if that). I wasn't sure if maybe there was a revision to the torque specs along with the new gasket design. I see there is a TSB 634708 revised lower intake manifold installation. However, I only see the heading description and everywhere I look I don't see the details. I have searched around a bit trying to find information, but everyone is using the same torque, many quoting the same Haynes manual as I used when fixing the LeSabre. Without knowing the details of the TSB, I can't be certain that this isn't going to be happening again. I would rather get both these cars squared away now with the right gaskets and torque specs and not have to deal with coolant getting into these engines. If anyone has access to the TSB and can tell me what it says, if anything, about the torque specs, then it would be greatly appreciated.
  11. I have just purchased a 1997 Buick Regal. I am doing some repairs on it so I can drive it. The ABS light is on but when I try to read the codes the scan tool is unable to communicate with the ABS module. I checked the fuses and they are good, just looking for help on what else I should check. I used the search function to try and find similar problems but it came up empty.
  12. Hi everyone. I have a '92 Cutlass Convertible. Late last year the battery began getting weak. After recharging a couple times, the battery finally wouldn't even hold a charge - that was late-January. The battery was almost five years old and had a useful life, so I bought a new one. No problems...until just a few days ago. I don't drive the Cutlass everyday as we have two other vehicles, so after a couple days of sitting, the car cranked slowly for a second before starting. Obviously, the new battery was getting weak! There are no obvious signs of a parasitic leak (no hood or truck light stuck on, no interior lights, etc.). I did a parasitic drain test today with my multimeter. At first, I was running around 1.50 amps. I disconnected the cables to the driver's side keyhole light and the seat belt connectors and it dropped to around .77 amps. Here's what's strange: opening and closing the door would give me different readings. Sometimes it was around .77 amps, then other times it was around .01 amps. I figured the switch in the door jamb might be bad, so I cleaned it up real good. Still, I'm getting around .75 amps most of the time, but sometimes .01 amps, changing as I open and close the door. Do you think the door jamb switch is bad? There doesn't seem to be much that can go wrong if it's clean - it's a simple switch. Any other ideas on what's causing the intermittent drain? If I pull the ELEC and CTSY fuses, I get .01 amps all the time. Thanks.
  13. Hey all An upgrade to the most recent version of VB has broken the original default visual theme we had. The company that created the theme is no longer in business, so we must find a new one. In the mean time, this dark colored theme is the only one I had installed that worked properly, despite some visual kinks that I've found. Please be patient as I work through these problems. Luke
  14. Hi guys, I'm having a problem with my 1993 3800 series I buick regal. The car was sitting for 6 weeks and when I returned it has noticeable power loss and has a horrible shudder/missfire when shifting into overdrive. The car sounds fine at idle and drives ok in drive but still lacks power. I have read that it could different things, ignition system, tps, fuel injectors/pump, torque convertor, etc. Any ways to rule any of these problems out or personal experiences would be appreciated. Thanks, John
  15. My '95 GP SE has a reoccurring problem every couple of years or so. About 2 years ago I was having problems getting it started and then one day the whole electrical system just spazed out on me. While I was driving no less. Luckily I was coming to a stop at the time. I took it to a garage and he told me there was rust built up in the underside of the fuse boxes under the hood. After I got it back, it started every time, until now. This morning I tried to start it and it started doing the same old thing, 'click', nothing. So, has anyone else experienced this? I'm in Michigan where the weather goes from cold to rainy to sunshine, in one day. What is the best way to not only fix this, but hopefully prevent this from happening again in 2 or so years? I pretty mechanically inclined and have done several repairs/maintenance to my beast (rotors, brakes, radiator,alternator.). But this is electrical and I'll admit, I'm somewhat intimidated. At the same time, I'm eager to take non new challenges and learn something new. TIA.
  16. Arkin

    1993 LQ1 -> L27

    hello from Ukraine, people I'm new here, as I'm new with W-body. Bought a 1993 Z34 coupe. Got some issues with my DOHC - it starts really tough, we thought we got starter or battery problems but when took off the transmission and tryed manually rotate the engine - it revealed there is some point where we have to apply much strength to pass it, then it goes smooth, but then again that tough point. We are going to open the engine to see what's up there of course but I keep a Plan B in mind. Plan B : we got a 1994 Trans Sport in town, 3.8L, so are there any issues to bolt that 3.8 into my coupe? I can get the engine and all stuff under the hood including computer. By the way, do I got a 4t60 or 4t60E in 1993 z34? thanx
  17. OK, need help. I need to lay this out and get feedback as proof both of these garages are idiots, so here it goes, the complete story. 94 3.4. May 2013, broke serpentine belt, towed to garage. Replaced water pump, thermostat, belt, pulleys. Was told I had head gasket problems. Was leaking coolant somewhere when I picked up my car. Drove car to another garage, asked for pressure test to confirm. I was told there was a broken inlet valve on the bottom of the radiator, no way a pressure test could have been done on it to get to I had a bad head gasket. Took back to first garage, demanded they put radiator in my car, they did, no further leaks, no overeating problems, nothing. Drove all summer 2013 in 100+ heat with a/c going most days, top up or down. No problems of any kind. Parked it end of October for the winter. February, needed to use it to go pick up a dining room table with my trailer (it's got a factory installed trailer hitch), warmed it up, turned on the heat, blew nothing but cold air, froze my butt off for the 8 mile round trip. Parked it again for the rest of the winter. Saved up the money to get the "supposedly" blown head gaskets and decided to go ahead and have timing belt replaced at same time since it had been about 50K miles since being replaced, took it back to the garage that did the initial work with the water pump, radiator, etc., on August 31st. After 4 weeks and a lot of delays, got my car back on September 29. All seemed well. Drove for exactly 2 weeks. Went out one Monday morning to start it to go visit my brother in the hospital, it died. Tried again, it died. Got out to raise hood, oil all over my garage floor. Called garage to come get it, told them it looked like they might not have put my oil filter on tight or something, they towed it back to their garage. Called me the next day and said the oil sending unit was leaking, and oh by the way, you have a water leak. apparently they had let me leave the garage the first time, with a bad hose and didn't bother to replace it or even tell me about. After another 2 weeks, they were going to bring my car to my home since I had no way to come get it. So, manager was driving it to me, got about a mile from the store, overheated. towed it back to their garage. After another 7-10 of trying to figure out what was wrong, asked me if they could have it towed to another garage to get "correctly" diagnosed. A couple of days later, I get a phone call stating that the 2nd garage determined my heads had cracks in them and apparently the machine shop either missed it or something, so they were going to buy new heads for my car at their expense and fix it. Another week goes by. Winter is here, I have no ride, so they rent me a car to drive saying my car would be ready in a few days. Another week goes by. The 2nd shop is now telling them, they apparently repaired my heads, after I was told I was getting new ones, and now the block has pin holes in it, it's had them for over 2 years, and it's all "my fault" and the first garage isn't responsible for fixing my car as now my "piece of junk" car (their words) needs a whole new engine at a cost of over $6000. Next thing I know, my car is sitting in their parking lot torn down, they won't put it back together as "they won't be held responsible for it" and my rental car is yanked from me. So I am back on foot, no car, and their claims department is trying to say that for 2 years, my car has had pin holes in the block, can't be repaired, and they aren't going to do anything about it. Called today to find out when someone is going to put my car back together, waiting to hear that now. So, I need some professional opinions. Here is what I think. First garage that told me I needed head gaskets, replaced gaskets, let my car leave with a bad water hose, sent car to garage they have a "relationship" with (they send business back and forth), who are telling them I have been knowing driving my car for 2 years with a bad block, which is a lie. They repaired my heads apparently, put my car back together, guess what, still got hot I guess, so now instead of them standing behind that they told the first garage, the heads had cracks, now it's the engine block has pin holes and they aren't touching it again. Thoughts? And I guess I am going to have to sue them to get something done.
  18. Car is 2000 Lumina, recently ive been having problems getting the car to start. The battery is fully charged, my lights are bright and everything works but when I turn the key it doesnt crank. Sometimes I wait a while and then it cranks and starts fine. I was left stranded Saturday, I tried everything, moving the cables, moving the steering wheel and shifter. I have 2 keys and tried them both. Have heard could be ignition with the chip key or starter solinoed. Thought I would check here first since ive always gotten the best advice on here
  19. I honestly don't know if there is a problem here, but I thought I would throw this out and see what everyone thinks. My 95 GP SE interior fan seems to be running real slow on the first 2 settings and then really high on the last 2. Maybe it's just me but it seems I get barley any air or coming out like gang busters. I usually have to turn it on the 3rd setting just to really feel anything.
  20. I've gone through the wiring diagrams in the Haynes manual but have come to a dead end. I'll write a quick outline of what's going on. Ignition off and parking lights switched on: The front turn lights come on, both sides. Ignition on, parking lights off, and activating left and right turn signals: Left and right work properly. Ignition on, parking lights on, and activating left and right turn signals: The signal lights work on both sides, but never go fully off because they are lit by the parking light. It seems that something is using the turn lights to find an earth, but when I take out all the turn bulbs, I find nothing that has stopped working. Here's the dead end...... In the Haynes manual wiring diagrams, I see that there is only ONE park/turn bulb. Its function seems to be determined by either a park-turn relay or by a 'module' with diodes in it. I assume that this bulb functions as a parking light (sidelight in GB English) until the indicator is activated, when it indicator bulb. When the signal is cancelled, it goes back to being a sidelight/parking light.....I assume, still. But on our Regal, there are TWO bulbs in the plastic lamp units next to each headlamp, not just one. The four bulbs in these two units are orange. There is evidence of someone having worked on all the front lamp wiring.....plastic connectors, sticky tape and so on. I will take all this crappy re-wiring off and re-do it properly, but first I need to know: What is the original setup of the front park/turn lights system on this model? What should be happening? It's a 91 Regal Coupe Limited, 3.1 engine. Has someone possibly taken turn/parking lamp units (with dual bulbs) from a different model and tried to bypass the park/turn relay/module, and failed miserably? I can pop round to the auto electric chap if necessary and translate the English into Polish for him, but it makes sense to ask here first to get as well-prepared as possible. Cheers!
  21. So I finally felt froggy this weekend and decided to take off the interior door panel of my 1995 Pontiac Grand Prix SE while the door was still closed. That was fun. After playing around for a while with the inner and outer rods to open the door I discovered that I need a new latch/lock assembly, a new exterior door handle rod and just to even things out a new exterior door handle. BTW, I have electrics locks and windows. My first question is, is there a way to take out the inner metal skin from the outer metal skin so I can get to the inner workings of the door easier? I was taking a closer look and it appears that the two are welded together. I already know that I'm going to have to remove the seat belt assembly. Tanks for any info in advance.
  22. For the past 4 weeks have been having problems with key fob not locking of unlocking doors or trunck. This problem comes and goes. It wasn't until the problem first started that I realized that I didn't have a key to the doors or trunk (that will be taken care of today). Before you ask, I have put new batteries in both remotes. I've done searches here and can not find where to look for the internal part (receiver) for the remote locks on a vert. Any ideas on what to look for and where? Also, just a side note. I had the engine replaced on this car about 3000 miles ago (new crate engine). Since that time the low coolant light comes and goes, it is not low on coolant nor does the engine run hot or warm, It's just that in the past 4 weeks (maybe tied to the lock problem) it's on more than it's off. Suggestions. Many Thanks Kaye Just FYI. I had a new top and cylinders installed back in April. Love this car
  23. I tried to search first, but it wasn't that helpful. Anyways, I've got a 4T60E that, when cold, doesn't like to shift from 2nd to 3rd. When manually placed in those gears, there is still some hesitation, and when it warms up, the problem becomes less frequent. The transmission was rebuilt at 172,000, and currently has around 114,000 on it after the does not throw any codes. Any help would be greatly appreciated, is this might determine the fate of its outcome...(daily driver to parked).
  24. I have a 95 GP SE with 2 problems that I need help diagnosing. #1. When I'm driving, especially at slower speeds, I can hear only what I can describe ar a rubbing sound coming from the right front tire. At highter speeds <25 it feels as if the tire has a flat spot on it. #2. When I hit a bump, the rear left side sounds as if the strut is going to come out of the trunk. Even on uneven flat smooth roads the unevenness of the concrete, I can hear a little noise. I've checked the upper mounts and everything seems to be fine. I also checked the bounce of the car and strut stops the car from moving like is should. TIA for your input.
  25. My sister has a 1994 Olds Cutlass 3.1. The transmission will not go into reverse or shift out of first gear. Checked the trans fluid. Level is fine at op temp. Color is brown.
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