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Found 3,139 results

  1. So, I hear about these things all the time, I need them, but I've never seen a pic, and they're just about mythical. I finally picked some up today, and decided to post pictures of the final product. I need to know how exactly to install these things. Do you put the thing so it's straddling the top of the knuckle, or some other way?? The cat is my parents', his name is Chester.
  2. MaD

    Mufflers.

    Anyways, so, I was at Murray's last night and I started browsing the exhaust aisle. I became intrigued by the mufflers that they had there. (I didn't know mufflers were so cheap!, I was under the assumption they'd be around $200, don't ask why... (midas)...) So anyways, There was some no-name brand for like $20 and a couple of Dynomax ones (I suppose I've heard good things about them). I saw the Dynomax "Super Turbo" muffler, as well as their "Ultraflo welded" something or other. Now, The "super turbo" was roughly $40 and the other one was $60. Initially, I assumed the more expensive one would be the better one, but then I started reading the back of the box with all the flow-rates and I started to wonder if the UltraFlo's 1,440cfm flow-rate was indeed something I'm looking for.... After all, that's seems a bit excessive.. The Super Turbo, on the other hand, was flowing somewhere around 350cfm (That seems a little low). When I looked at the design, I could see why it was such a drastic difference. The innards looked like a "z" , while the Ultraflo's was simply a straight pipe with holes going through some fiberglass. Then, I started to realize, "I really don't know what all these numbers mean". So here I am. Ok, well, I know that to gain performance, you must lose some back-pressure, but if you lose TOO much back-pressure, performance suffers and if I remember correctly, this is bad for the engine. (Any truth to this?) Well anyways, the part that I'm stuck at is the "cut-off" point. I don't know exactly when perforrmance starts to degrade. Basically, I want to squeeze out as much perfomance as I can by putting a new muffler on. (My car is slow enough as it is) Oh, I don't care about sound at all, so if losing backpressure makes the car loud as hell, so be it. Ok, now, for what I already have. (I don't even know if this makes a difference) I have pretty much stock everything. Stock cat, stock 2 1/4 piping (it IS 2 1/4, right?) , etc. I do have a warm-air intake (It's a K&N cone filter) So that's great in getting the air IN, but it needs to leave too. I also have a FDP chip (not sure if that matters)... Oh, and I don't have head work or anything like that done. So pretty much bone stock. I AM looking to buy a 2.5in catco high-flow converter (or ANY high-flow converter) one of these days. And if I can find a nice, cheap place, I might go with a custom 2.5in catback. But for now, I just wanna put in a muffler. I DO wanna get that Ultraflo (which is 2.5in in/out), but again, I'm not sure if that would make me lose too much back-pressure/performance. Also, if it's NOT too much, if I ever get the 2.5inch complete exhaust, will it be too much then? Gah, sorry if this is hard to decipher. Hopefully someone knows what I mean. One last thing, there shouldn't be a problem welding the 2.5in muffler to my existing 2 1/4in piping, right? they can just use a reducer or something, right? Thanks, and sorry this is such a long post. -MaD-
  3. i'm gonna do one last suspension mod and that is put teh DOHC 34 mm bar in front....how do I do it? I can do the rear susp. in my sleep. The front....I know nothing about... I'm gonna do the engergy susp. poly bushings too
  4. The Cutlass Supreme convertible top is a standard two-piece design. According to convertibletopguys.com: “Almost all Ford, GM and Chrysler convertible tops install as two separate units. They are the main top and the rear window section. This is the original design since the thirties and the design is fundamentally unchanged until much later…The rear window section is often called the ‘curtain.’†The original top on Cutlass Supreme convertibles was double texture pinpoint vinyl. When replacing the top, though, you have several options when it comes to materials (the following material explanations are excerpted in large part from 1aauto.com with some notes added and irrelevant material removed): Single Texture Pinpoint vinyl: This is the most common replacement material used for Cutlass Supreme convertibles. This is a good, durable vinyl that matches the grain of many original tops from the 40's to the 80's. This material weighs 36 ounces per square yard. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Less expensive convertibles have been known to use this material. MOST aftermarket top seller's tout single texture vinyl as "the material the original OEM manufacturer used," when in fact most used double texture. To the untrained eye and hand it looks and may feel the same, but most cars that had a pinpoint vinyl top, built from the 40's to the 90's, used the double texture vinyl (Listed next). Although not the same, Single Texture Vinyl is still a good and commonly used replacement. It looks and feels nearly identical, will last almost as long, and for many restored vehicles that are garaged and covered, a single texture top could last 20 years or more if cared for properly. Double Texture Pinpoint vinyl (sometimes called Euro vinyl): 80% of Muscle cars and 40's - early 90's convertibles used double texture vinyl as the OEM material. The outside is a pinpoint vinyl while the inside is lined with cloth. Double texture vinyl weighs 38 ounces per square yard. The texture is a pinpoint texture nearly identical to single texture pinpoint vinyl. Double texture pinpoint costs a little more than the single texture pinpoint, however it is a more durable top and will last a few years longer. Single Texture Sailcloth vinyl: Many 90's convertibles such as Sebrings and Mustangs started using Sailcloth vinyl in place of pinpoint vinyl due to the fantastic texture. Standard interior color is black, gray interior cloth is available with some colors at an extra cost. The weight of Sailcloth vinyl is 36 ounces per square yard. Sailcloth vinyl material has a woven texture that resembles a "richer" cloth top. Color choices in Sailcloth vinyl are more limited than those in pinpoint vinyl. Stayfast Cloth: Stayfast is a tightly woven cloth canvas. The yarn is solution dyed BEFORE it is woven, creating a uniform color throughout. Domestic made or converted vehicles that came with a cloth top most likely used Stayfast cloth. Stayfast holds strong in both extremely hot and cold climates. Due to its richer look, Stayfast tops are more expensive. Stayfast color choices are limited and white is unavailable. Cutlass owners who want to give their car a more upscale appearance (and do not need or want a white top) have upgraded to a Stayfast top, and are almost universally pleased with its improved appearance/texture as compared to the original-style vinyl tops. When replacing the top, the window is almost always replaced as well. It is generally not recommended that you attempt to detach your existing glass window and try to re-use it. According to 1aauto.com: “Glass windows are bonded or heat sealed in to the vinyl or cloth surrounding them. It is very difficult to install just the glass in to a vinyl curtain and it will cost you about as much to have this done as it is for a brand new window and curtain. If your window and the attached fabric are in good condition, you can re-use them, but the vinyl may not match the new top.†It is possible to replace the top with one containing a plastic window, but this is not recommended, as plastic windows looks cheap, are very flimsy, and scratch easily. Please allow the Cutlass ‘vert to retain its dignity by using a glass-windowed top, and leave the plastic windows to the Geo and Cavalier ‘verts. When selecting a glass window with your new top, you will have the option of choosing one with or without a defroster. The headliner is usually re-used if still in acceptable condition. Same with the top pads and cables, though there is some difference of advice here. Some websites recommend new pads and side cables with every new top, and new rear cables with every other top, while other sites and installers say that the side cables and pads only need to be replaced when their condition warrants it. It’s up to you. Most convertible manuals indicate that the complete top install takes about 10 hours, 7 for the main top piece, and 3 for the “curtain†(the secondary piece that holds the window). Labor costs can range from $400 to $1000, depending on the installer’s hourly rate. Some shops may allow you to buy the top and bring it to them, but be aware that some will inflate their labor a bit to compensate for the lost profit from selling you the top through them, and also may not warranty the installation, since they can’t verify the quality of a top brought to them by a customer. This means that you would have to make sure it looked right before leaving the shop. Convertibletopguys.com give some excellent advice: “If you decide to "hire out" the job: * Go to your yellow pages. Look under "automobile seat covers, upholstery and tops." Select a couple of shops and visit or call them. You want to determine that is their policy to provide installation service on tops that are not purchased from the shop. * Many shops are dealers themselves and represent a top manufacturer and will not want to sacrifice this re-sale aspect of their profit. Be wary of any shop that disparages a product that it does not carry. Although it is true that quality can vary, no company should use "scare tactics" to get your business.†While it is highly recommended that you have the top installed by a professional, it is possible, with patience and the correct tools, to install the top yourself. Be aware that it will likely take an inexperienced installer several times longer than a professional. Convertibletopguys.com sells a universal two-piece top manual, and it is also possible to acquire an original GM instructional video for the Cutlass ‘Vert top that several have said was a real help when installing the top themselves. If you will be buying a top to take to an installer, or will be attempting the install yourself, you will need to decide where to get a top from. Here are just a few sources (that also represent a range of the brands available) that sell Cutlass ‘vert tops: Topsonline.com—They have the best prices found to this point, though their selection is a bit limited (for example, they don't offer sailcloth texture option). The tops they sell for the Cutlass 'Verts are EZ-on, the most widely sold brand. Their quality is considered to be good. Convertibletopguys.com—They sell tops as part of a kit that includes side cables and pads. Their tops are Kee Tops, supposedly a pretty premium brand (though one installer I contacted said that “they think a lot of their tops [because of the higher price] but I’ve never noticed that they were any better than EZ-onâ€). This site is well-known for their knowledge and customer service. Several have commented that they were pleased with their transaction. Kee tops are also sold on sears.com’s website here: http://auto.sears.com/Oldsmobile-Cutlass-Convertible-Tops/600025340-200743174-1994-10623.htm. 1aauto.com—Their tops are made by Acme Headliner, and are supposed to be pretty good quality. These tops, at present (3/09) are the ones most commonly seen on Ebay. EZsofttops.com—They also carry EZ-on tops. Their prices are higher than topsonline.com, but they have a wider selection, offering sailcloth tops in various colors, including the “Brite White†that is the correct color white color for Cutlass ‘verts. JC Whitney—They have historically carried Electron tops. Some sources say that this is the economy brand of convertible tops, though one installer I contacted did actually say they were is favorite because of how easy they are to install. Electron tops are also available through Electrontop.com and topsdown.com. Robbins Tops—arguably the highest end brand, they only sell the main top piece, not the curtain. Their tops are sold through regional distributors. Wherever you buy your top from, make sure it comes with a 5-year warranty. This is pretty much standard. If they don’t offer this, their tops are probably of lesser quality than average. Cylinders and pumps are still available from a few sources. One is http://www.hydroe.com/Oldsmobile_Cutlass.html. If anyone can think of anything else that is needed, let me know and I’ll modify this thread.
  5. Time to Sell my 91 Regal GS. I have owned this car for 16 years and gave it a fresh paint job about 13 years ago when i was in body school. Car is a 1991 Buick Regal GS 4 Seater with the series 1 3800 motor. It has 135,000 miles on it and runs strong. over the years I Have put alot of new parts in it, I have a folder a inch thick so contact me if you would like details. Price is $3500 obo. No low balls this car has been my baby for along time, no hurry to sell just want more space in my garage. I've attached photos contact me if you want more information or pictures of anything specific anything specific. I am located on the Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa border. Thanks
  6. I know I'm probably tiring you folks...but you've been such a help alreay, and I've now resolved almost all the issues my "95 convertible had when I bought it, and it's only been two weeks! Here's the issue...since fixing the Quad Driver module fault this weekend, I'm down to a single DTC showing on my scantool. The car runs great while cool, no codes at all, but a some point, once the car gets warm, the TCC is no longer locked, and the transmission shifts out of overdrive into 3rd gear. That's where things stay. At that point, the scantool shows a P0740 (TCC error), the "Service Engine Soon" light never goes on. I thought at first this could be an issue of the transmission going into "hot mode", but according to the factory service manual, this occurs at temps above 266 degrees. Warmest the scantool has shown the transmission fluid so far is 211 degrees. So far, I've not found any wiring issues...any suggestions?
  7. 127k. Originally a Texas car, no rust. Starts right up, runs and drives but has been sitting for almost a year. Interior is very clean and in good shape other than some rips on the leather driver's seat and a sagging headliner. Body damage on the right side. The sunroof, cassette player, a/c do not work at this time. I've had the car since 2009 and before that it was owned by an older woman. I have many extra parts from a '92 including 2 doors, hood, trunk, 4 extra alloy wheels and tires, bumper, lighting assembly, etc can be included depending on what you need. All parts are totally rust free. I also have a brand new OEM driver's door handle, fog lights and grille included. $900 Unique reliable car that needs a little work. Very close to road-ready condition. It will need to be towed and is located in Westchester County, NY
  8. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  9. This is my ride and recently toasted three speakers. Both rear and drivers door. Have replaced with Sony Xplod speakers but concerned the monsoon amp might do in this set. Any idea where the amp is located? Might bypass it and put in a new radio, my deck is loosing illumination! Mark Morgan
  10. Well, since the TGP had KYBs and the sleeves I have wont fit the Gabriels I have had on the CS, I had some time to play with the coilovers. Sure enough, the sleeves fit the KYBs no problem.. The mount has been the other thing that has kinda plagued me, so I was working on a custom mount when I discovered the mounts on the KYBs will WORK!! And they are prolly the best route to go with no modifications needed. So, I have the coilovers assembled and ready for the car. I have pics on my camera and will update in a couple hours with the simple step by step, the exact parts I used and links to buy them, and the cost of everything. Needless to say, the price will smoke Helds price anyday And quality over Helds, no difference, but the mount is better because its not so solid like Helds. The mount NEEDS to take some force instead of the strut rod directly tranferring it to the body. Using the stock mount justs adds a bit more needed cusion without sacrificing handling. I know Held uses a strut rod bushing in the upper mount. They are HARD as hell. -Bob
  11. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  12. Greazzer

    2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue

    I am new to the forum, and I may have posted this in the wrong section. I am also trying to learn how to move around on the forum. Here is my question posted in the new member section. Any help please. My wife loves this car, so I am trying to fix it before it goes to the Pull-a-Part. Thanks in advance. [h=2]PLEASE, Help for 2001 Intrigue[/h] I have a 2001 Olds Intrigue. Looks like a bunch of stuff just went wrong at once. It has 215K miles on it. Is there anyone out there that has dropped the sub-frame? Are there any references or info out there on how to do this. I need to replace the water pump, valve cover gaskets, serp belt, and cross-over gaskets. I think it will be easier to drop everthing and work on it while I can easily access everything. I have access to a car lift and full auto shop, although I am not a mechanic by trade, but I have been working on cars for years. Any one, please any information. Time is a killer for me, so I would rather do things faster even if it involves something as exotic as dropping drivetrain. Thanks in advance.
  13. I'm going to post here as well for easier searching. I was able to use the factory upper strut mount and bump stop by using some springs that have a 4 1/8" ID top and a 2 1/2" ID bottom. The springs are listed as "GM series" coil springs and are available from 250 to 600lb. The 250 and 300lb springs are 11" long. The 350lb and above springs are 10" long. The springs I used for my 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible were the springs rated at 300lbs /in. I ground down the factory upper spring isolator to make a tapered spacer (3/8" thick on one side and 1/8" thick on the other) to keep the spring parallel with the strut. Install the tapered spacer on the upper strut mount, then install the poly spring isolator and spring with thrust bearing, adjusting sleeve and nut. The guys at QA1 racing said to use never seize on the thrust bearing. I cut the bottom two rings off the bump stop. Parts List: (2) HAL-11HTBF300 springs $65.97 ea at summit racing (1) ENS-9-6101G Spring isolator $20.97 pr at summit racing. (1) HAL-7888-109 Thrust bearing kit $25.97 pr at summit racing. (2) COK-12452-H Coil over adjusting sleeve about $40/pr A1 Racing. (2) COK-12460 Coil over adjuster nut about $26/pr A1 Racing Total investment around $250 Wheels: 17X8 + 38 offset Tires: 255/45-17 Tire clearance at 1 3/4" drop. I've since went 2" drop and no tire rubbing on either the springs or the fenders yet. This is as low as I feel comfortable with so this is where I stop. 2" drop front. 2 1/2" drop rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Long story short, I have a laptop that functions perfectly aside from having a battery that doesn't batter. To spare some details, I reinstalled a fresh XP copy, tweaked some things, and got centrafuse mostly running how I want (other than some plugins and codecs for video). I have about 12 seconds until complete hibernate from button push, and about 15 seconds from cold start out of hibernate until music starts. My hurdles are switching it on and off. My plans are to get a DC-DC laptop adapter that's the proper voltage and whatnot (about $14 online), and then wire a cigarette lighter in somewhere so that it's easily disconnected. I haven't rewired anything yet since it's cold, but I'll probably run a thicker power wire to a distribution block, and then run my amp and this off of it. So, with the power mostly planned, here's kind of the setup I'm going for: If I hardwire it with a DC-DC plug, and then just have something "push" the button after a few seconds (after crank), that would do 100% of what I need it to. Basically this turn key on power comes on, utilizing remote wire in the same manner as an amp? 5-10 second delay to allow voltage spike from crank, crank and start button press once started (doesn't have to involve the 500rpm thing, 5-10 seconds will do the same thing, just on a timer instead of an rpm signal) the issue will be going into hibernate, having it retain power for maybe 30 seconds before cutting off turn key off maintain power, button push 30 second delay cut all power I'm open to thoughts and ideas. I know I can buy something to do all this, but why spend over $50 for something I should be able to do for less than $20? I may solder in a secondary power button lead off of the original, so that I can basically run a remote button somewhere if I need to for testing purposes. My goal is to use this primarily as a carputer, but maintaining it's laptoppiness. for reference, it's a celeron 2.4ghz processor, with 700 some megs of ram, so plenty to run audio and some decent video OH! I almost forgot! My plans to start are to run a cd HU in the foxglove, and maintain stock speaker setup, and just run this into the aux jack for now, so the only issue with this is finding the happy medium of two separate volume controls. And then of course I'll run a touchscreen in the stock HU location. I thought about putting it where the DIC is, but it's gonna be too difficult I think with the shifter
  15. WTB!!!! 1st gen rear fiberglass leaf spring or just the 2 center isolator bushings. I don't care on what it looks like I only need the bushings which have to be in decent condition. Ill pay for a whole leaf I dont care.. got to mount my Birchmount rear leaf asap. Spoon93@gmail.com -Jarek
  16. Hey- I just bought this 1998 Monte Carlo Z-34. It's driven great for about three thousand miles, and still runs OK. It throws a code for a small leak in the evaporative emissions canister. Probably the line is rotted. Where, exactly is the thing? It's not where my 1996 W-body manual says. My Buick GS rotted out around the right rear trailing (holding?) arm. No one would fix it. thanks for any replies, I know it's been a long time since I posted last. Mike
  17. Heartbeat1991

    4T60HD

    I am in the process of rebuilding Galen's TGP transmission. He had no 4th gear. After taking it apart, it's obvious why. The 4th gear clutch was all tore up. I never seen one like that before. But I don't have a lot of 4T60 experience either. The clutch material was gone. It was all metal to metal. The confusing part is that the clutch teeth were bent up pretty bad and the whole things seems to have been spinning in the outside of it's carrier. ( See pics ). I have yet to do much digging for parts. . .But, does anyone know if that clutch career is going to be ok to re-use? And what caused this? What else should I be looking for? It seems to me that something had to have been bound up to cause this. But I have no idea how.
  18. Nicutlass_Supremacy

    Low Voltage problem with low beam headlight

    I have an oldsmobile cutlass supreme 94 3.4L v6. The problem is that when I turn on the low beam headlight the voltage meter goes down almost to 8 volts but the thing is that when I switch to the hig beam the voltage goes up and turning other things also makes voltage change but sometimes it goes down. So I think that the alternator was bad and I made this test. With the car turn off I switch the lights on and nothing happend the voltage was good about 10 volts but suddenly when I change to low beam voltage drops and lights and everything almost went of. So I turn off the lights and the voltage went up again. I ve tried this several times and sometimes it happens and sometimes not. I think theres something wrong when I switch the headlamps because when they are off the voltage is good over 13 volts with the car on. I don t know what could cause such drain in the battery without blowing a fuse or something. What can I do? Thanks
  19. GP1138

    Ways You'd Improve the 1st Gen W

    It's 1986 - you've been transported to the past, and miraculously, you're on the GM-10 project, that is supposed to help revitalize GM's image, and bring them back from possible financial ruin. Knowing all you know now about how the cars have aged, what are some things you think would improve the overall quality of these cars in fifteen years? Do you think they survived the years they were meant to survive without falling apart terribly? This is with an understanding of both quality control's effect on the bottom line... it's hard to keep these things on a budget. Also I'm aware that GM did fix these things in the newer "1.5" gen W's. I'd do the following: Strengthen the brakes - less problematic rear calipers Use different materials to cover Lumina and Cutlass dashpads Design the turn signal switches differently in the square columns (I'm not an engineer, but perhaps better quality metal on the contacts) Glass headlights throughout the line, no plastic that can fade and discolor I'll think of more, but I figured it was an interesting idea to write on.
  20. hey guys, my 04 grand prix started to sway a few weeks ago around 80-100kmh my tires had some play so i changed bearings ball joints tierods and sway links and even bought a new set of tires, im one of those guys with the infamous abs traction control messed up as well so im starting to think maybe now i got everything new and tightened up that im feeling the sway because traction control is off? or am i maybe due for some struts? they seem ok they dont klunk when i hit bumps and they release to original position quickly when i push down on the car, any ideas?
  21. you all know how to do it so i'm not going into full detail but i'm trying to make my own clear corners here are some pics . before you guys go and tell me that it looks like dog shit remember its a rough try just trying to figure some things out before i make a good set here are some pics
  22. 94 olds vert

    ST lowering springs

    New in box! I have all 4 of them. They are for 1.5 gen cars, but the fronts will fit on 1st gens. Should give about 1.5 inches of drop. $40+shipping Let me know your zip code and I will try my best to get a quote for the shipping cost.
  23. Deacon

    Looked over fix causes problems.

    So late last year (2014), I had to several fixes all at once on my '95 GP SE. New hoses new radiator new alternator and a couple of small things here and there. I got all the parts and completed everything in a weekend. Afterwards, she was running just like she was before only with no leaking and more power <grunt, grunt, grunt>. Then I noticed my gas mileage dropping like a rock. I went from an avg of 22mpg to around 18mpg. At first I was baffled how anything I replaced could affect mileage so I did some research and couldn't really find anything. I even went and had the plugs and wires replaced. It was dead of winter in Michigan and I don't have access to a garage. I decided to tackle the simplest thing first. I had replaced my gad cap with a locking unit. So I decided to put the old one(original) back on, wait and see what happened. First tank of gas, my mileage jumped back up to about 19 mpg. After a while it has continuously climbed and is now around 21.59 mpg. Of course it all depends on my driving habits and stop and go traffic vs highway. So it just goes to show you, check the simple things first. Or Keep It Simple Stupid. Thats my story and I'm sticking to it.
  24. Hi everyone. I want to say thank you to all of you who have helped me directly and indirectly over the years with keeping my vehicles on the road. The reason for this thread is that I almost lost my family in an accident yesterday. Someone decided to blow through a stop sign and T-bone my car with 4 passengers and myself in it. We were all shaken up but my sister-in-law got the full brunt of the pickup. I tried to pound the gas to avoid him (Red Explorer) but it was too late. She was released from the hospital last night with no broken bones or internal injuries other than taking a 4000lb-plus-line-backer to the side. My girlfriend was in the front passenger seat is a bit beat up and her daughter was in the rear sitting on the hump with my cousin sitting behind me. I was doing 45kph down an incline and he was doing 20-30kph accelerating into me and the impact spun me 180* through the intersection. I may shit on GM products but I have to say that if it wasn't for the stance, fat arse and beefy build of this car (apparently there was a rollover last year with the same intersection in the same fashion). Things would be much worse. Take care everyone and thanks for everything. I am happy that I have family alive and well on both sides of the monitor. =) Cheers -Steve
  25. kushfabreakfast

    98 GS soon to be a GSX clone

    Hello fellaz, I just purchased my second Regal GS, and since I didn't mod my first one I plan on goin balls deep into this one. Anywho I bought the car knowing it needed a trans, but the price was one I couldn't refuse. I have a pretty good starting point. Super clean interior for a 98, only 122K on odometer, and a slew of new parts. Even already has a K&N cold air intake. Needless to say I'm on the hunt for my tranny first so any help would be greatly appreciated. Doesn't have to be low miles since I plan on rebuilding my original. Just wanna know the mileage and get a fair price. Also any modification ideas would be greatly appreciated. P.S what should I do before going to a smaller pulley on the SC?
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