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Found 1,437 results

  1. Name all the TV shows and movies that you have seen that have w-body's in them. 1. (TV) In the heat of the night (Buick Regal cp) 2. (Movie) Serial Mom (Chevrolet Lumina) 3. (Movie) Josh and Sam (Pontiac Grand Prix cp)
  2. Well this is my first post but i'm already on my 3rd 3800 series motor car. 89 Bonneville SE, 97 Lesabre Limited and now my incredible W-Body 94 Regal Coupe. I got the opportunity to buy a little old lady's car and I took it. A 1994 Buick Regal with only 32,000 miles. The car has lived a very easy life being the routine grocery getter. Spending most of it's life in a heated garage. I have a ton of service records on the car and all the original paperwork and documentation. Best of all it has the 3800 motor in it. Really fun car to drive and I can't wait to get a new pair of tires and 5 spoke rims on it.
  3. There's a bulletin for it, but I left it at my dad's shop and I won't be there until Thursday. Is there anyone that could find it and send it to me? It's for my 98 Regal.
  4. Time to Sell my 91 Regal GS. I have owned this car for 16 years and gave it a fresh paint job about 13 years ago when i was in body school. Car is a 1991 Buick Regal GS 4 Seater with the series 1 3800 motor. It has 135,000 miles on it and runs strong. over the years I Have put alot of new parts in it, I have a folder a inch thick so contact me if you would like details. Price is $3500 obo. No low balls this car has been my baby for along time, no hurry to sell just want more space in my garage. I've attached photos contact me if you want more information or pictures of anything specific anything specific. I am located on the Wisconsin, Illinois, Iowa border. Thanks
  5. So a few days ago my starter went out at a gas station, didn't engage the flywheel just whined. Got it home, replaced the starter the next day, and it cranked right up but has a crazy loud noise/squeal/grinding noise. I don't know if this has anything to do with the noise, but I had to unbolt the AC compressor to get at the starter. It sounded like a super loud belt noise at first so I thought it was the AC pully was misaligned but after getting under the car and listening through a screw driver I'm convinced its a sound from the flywheel and the starter. I never heard of shimming a starter before today and I'm wondering if that has to do with it? Like the starter is just so close that the bendix drive shaft is hitting the flywheel? I looked and the clearance seemed a little tight but i'm not sure because this is the first time i've had a problem with replacing a starter and always just bolted it on and was done. Also I have examined the flywheel teeth before replacing the starter and they are all in good condition, and the starter is a new Duralast Gold... Anyways,,, here is the noise....
  6. Since it seems that we do have people that are unsure on how to access speakers, or take apart they're dashes, I figured I would go ahead and upload these. These are the only one's that I currently have. If I am missing some, either they are not available, or I totally forgot about that certain vehicle; Just let me know, and I'll let you know . If a guide is not available, and someone would like to make a nice write up, like the ones in the link, PM me the write up, and I will add it to this. Also, these are currently loaded onto Putfile, which has a 30 day experation, meaning 30 days from the last download, they delete the file off of the system. So... If someone that has a server would be kind enough to download all of these, then upload them to their own and PM me the links, I will glady update this thread. Hopefully this can be added to the FAQ or made a sticky. 88-94 Cutlass 95-97 Cutlass No available guide 88-91 Grand Prix 92-93 Grand Prix 94-96 Grand Prix 97-99 Grand Prix 00-03 Grand Prix 00-05 Impala 98-03 Intrigue 90-94 Lumina 95-99 Lumina/Monte Carlo 88-93 Regal 94-96 Regal 97-00 Regal 95-99 Riviera
  7. My dad made the comment that i should grab a second car so im not feeling rushed when wrenching on the monte. I agreed. Been poking around and actually found two nice cars i actually like. 2001 regal gs Pros-clean as hell, most parts interchange with my monte, ive actually wanted a regal for a while, will make a good candidate for a regal 2-door conversion idea i had(hehehe) Cons-they have a price a lil high on it, previous body repair. 2008 impala ss Pros-5.3 , good color scheme(red/black), eeven cleaner than hell, decent price, would b an eventual ls4 donor for monte after car is beat up and the trans dies Cons-little interchange with monte, before mentioned trans weakness, more expensive parts Kinda leaning towards regal even tho the impala is a better deal
  8. 127k. Originally a Texas car, no rust. Starts right up, runs and drives but has been sitting for almost a year. Interior is very clean and in good shape other than some rips on the leather driver's seat and a sagging headliner. Body damage on the right side. The sunroof, cassette player, a/c do not work at this time. I've had the car since 2009 and before that it was owned by an older woman. I have many extra parts from a '92 including 2 doors, hood, trunk, 4 extra alloy wheels and tires, bumper, lighting assembly, etc can be included depending on what you need. All parts are totally rust free. I also have a brand new OEM driver's door handle, fog lights and grille included. $900 Unique reliable car that needs a little work. Very close to road-ready condition. It will need to be towed and is located in Westchester County, NY
  9. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  10. 1) Lloyd Ultimats from my 98 Regal. They are a full set of front & rear mats in the light gray color. The fronts have the Buick tri-shield logo embroidered. Some of the securing tabs are broken. $100 shiped 2) 2 sets of rear GM splash guards for 06 GP. They are used and have a good bit of scraping on the bottoms. Fit front and rear. $10 3) Trailblazer SS MAF sensor (used). $50 4) Stock 3.8" supercharger pulley (used). $5 5) MSP CAI with powerstack cone filter (used). $125 The best looking CAI, IMO. 6) Overkill Motorsports PCM left open for tuning (used). $125 7) ZZP 3" downpipe with spun cat and rear flange (necked down to 2.5") $175 can include O2 sensor extension harness
  11. In an effort to preserve information about these cars and tuning, I figure I'd write this up. This information was figured out by the members of GrandPrixForums, but the thread that it's in is very long and full of off-topic posting. Overview: Owners may wish to delete the rear oxygen sensor in order to install a wideband in the factory bung location. In 2001+ cars, this causes a new cat diagnostic to run repeatedly, skewing fuel trims and negatively impacting fuel economy. Cause: Beginning in MY 2001 (and possibly some prior MY California emissions cars), GM added a cat diagnostic test in order to determine the efficiency and operation of both the catalyst and rear O2 sensor. This test works by richening the fuel trims to an extreme degree in order to saturate the catalyst, then waiting for the O2 to respond appropriately. It will run this test over and over during cruise until it is satisfied. Without a rear O2, the test never passes and fuel economy suffers. LTFT readings will also skew rich (high double digit LTFTs), causing tuning difficulties. O2 Simulators do not correct the issue because the PCM is expecting a specific response from the amount of fuel being dumped. Fix: Utilizing Tiny Tuner, this diagnostic can be disabled. As of April 2017, HPTuners still does not offer this ability. By and large, this patch is available for most 2011-2014 L36, L67, L32, L82, and LA1 OSIDs, but some may be missing. To disable the test, open your .bin in Tiny Tuner and navigate to the following: Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Enable Coolant Temp Stock is 20. Change to 285 (positive, not negative like the screenshot). Navigate to Diagnostics > Main > CAT Diagnostic Tests per Trip Stock is 18. Change to 0. This should disable the O2 diagnostic test going forward. Errata: The original version of this document (and the screenshots) suggest changing the enable temp to -285. This value is too low and would allow the diagnostic to run anyway. The diagnostic would run every time the car is driven until interrupted. After interrupted, the test would be suspended. Setting it to a high value that the car would never see prevents it from running at all.
  12. I am new to this forum, not new to these cars 2001 Lumina, Former fleet car. Very reliable. 2002 Intrigue GLS, former Florida Cadillac dealer upgrade loaner car. A somewhat odd duck, but they are nice and a lot of them were sold. 2001 Regal LS, former rental car (sold this one recently). Overall a very good car. All owned since they were about a year old with low miles when purchased. All driven regularly around the city and on long trips. Most common problems have been electrical switches and connectors as the cars have aged. Transmission issues typical with the type.
  13. This is my ride and recently toasted three speakers. Both rear and drivers door. Have replaced with Sony Xplod speakers but concerned the monsoon amp might do in this set. Any idea where the amp is located? Might bypass it and put in a new radio, my deck is loosing illumination! Mark Morgan
  14. Looks like after 14 years my 96 Regal needs new rear struts. The rubber bumpers are rotten and it and the dust shield have dropped down on the shock. I have read that the Monroe Sensa-Trac Strut will give the softest ride is this fairly accurate?
  15. It happens a couple minutes after starting, if I go in reverse or drive sometimes it'll stall out with out my foot on the gas. I changed plugs, wires, map sensor egr valve gasket, cleaned throttle body iac and egr, fuel pressure was normal, cant find vacuum leaks. Does anybody have an idea or have had this problem before? map sensor reads bad but I replaced it and tested the new one, code 33 is coming up, I used a multi meter at the plug and its getting 5 volts. Here's a video.
  16. just bought a floor shift model full digital cluster to replace my stock broken base cluster I moved pins around to make it work best I could since the junkyard one has no harness so far I have working both turn signal indicators(before left was out) high beam (before wasn't working) brake engine low coolant temp gauge(ran wire direct to new sender) oil gauge (still has switch so shows max) volts gauge( just replaced alternator stays in middle whole time) fuel(works way better than base one which was bouncing all over) eng/metric switch Not working Tach (ran c13 direct to orange on diag port and nothing) seatbelt light(I think that was yellow one) have about 5-6 extra wires and this cluster has a extra 8x2 plug I don't have Any ideas on the correct pinouts for this swap and why is the tach still dead Also my speedometer is way too fast and says 99mph at 75Mph (GPS Speed) it does this with both clusters...
  17. Anybody know the process of removing the power steering high pressure hose? I can see it down in the bay but I'm not sure of what all you gotta do to get it off. I hope this does not involve dropping the cradle in any way.
  18. Been looking for a new old stock coolant reservoir for a good while now, and I am unable to find one. I can find new tanks for older cars and newer ones, but none for mine. Been searching Ebay for weeks now with no luck. I would rather have a new one, but I will buy a used one just as long as there is a good view of the coolant level. The GM part number for the tank is 10239079. That part number fits Regal 91 through 93(3.1 only not sure), Cutlass Supreme 91 through 93, Pontiac Grand Prix 91 through 93, and Chevrolet Lumina 91 through 93. If you have a used one that is in good shape, or know where I could get a new one, then please let me know. Thanks
  19. No affiliation with this just came across it searching autotrader[bUICK[REG[]][]]&listingId=399816035&Log=0
  20. Hi: My 2008 LaCrosse CX came with all the power accessories on it (windows, locks, seats). My early 90s Regal did not (the locks were standard, but mine had manual windows and manual seats). I didn't want to deal with any hassles. My 84 Cutlass Supreme (RWD) had several problems with both the power windows and the power seat as it got older and I was not at all happy with that. Have the power accessories on W-bodies gotten better and more reliable? I would think so. Now even more basic cars like Chevy Cruzes and Ford Focuses come with power windows standard. Any feedback from folks with W-bodies from 1995 to 2005 as to how power accessories which you couldn't work around manually (such as windows) have been holding up? Thanks.
  21. Hi all, my wife and I have just purchased a 2000 Buick Regal LS. It replaced the rot box Pontiac grand am I had. I have worked on and driven a few 3800's before, just never owned one. I must say, this car is much more pleasant to drive than the grand am. (This is coming from a 24 year old no less)
  22. It's been awhile since I've been here. Family, work, etc = no time. Question on my 99 Regal. How do I disable the automatic lights? I'm OK with the DRL's being on but if they vanish with disabling the auto lights then that's fine too. Any insight is appreciated. Thanks.
  23. Hello fellaz, I just purchased my second Regal GS, and since I didn't mod my first one I plan on goin balls deep into this one. Anywho I bought the car knowing it needed a trans, but the price was one I couldn't refuse. I have a pretty good starting point. Super clean interior for a 98, only 122K on odometer, and a slew of new parts. Even already has a K&N cold air intake. Needless to say I'm on the hunt for my tranny first so any help would be greatly appreciated. Doesn't have to be low miles since I plan on rebuilding my original. Just wanna know the mileage and get a fair price. Also any modification ideas would be greatly appreciated. P.S what should I do before going to a smaller pulley on the SC?
  24. Hello everyone, new to here but been around the turbo buick world for awhile. Anyways I need some help getting info. I'm putting a 94 3800 supercharged engine in a 92 cutlass supreme coupe sl. I'm using the engine harness and computer from a 92 regal coupe with a n/a 3.8 to run it with a tuned chip. but I need the pinout for the c100 connector for the 92 regal and the 92 cutlass to get everything working. If someone has this info it would be greatly appreciated. I tried going to a local buick shop to get it but they wouldn't hand out the information.
  25. I have just purchased a 1997 Buick Regal. I am doing some repairs on it so I can drive it. The ABS light is on but when I try to read the codes the scan tool is unable to communicate with the ABS module. I checked the fuses and they are good, just looking for help on what else I should check. I used the search function to try and find similar problems but it came up empty.
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