Upgrade Time! Help?

[Rick]

There's never a worry of DOA with ebay. You are protected by ebay's buyer protection, and you have I think 3 weeks to file a dispute if your item is defective.

 

Those amps look great. Pioneer electronics are generally decent. Their head units are some of the best, their speakers are not so great but generally "ok", and their subs are mediocre. Their amps are good and those certainly look like a good deal. They're both CEA-2006 compliant, which means they will deliver their rated power. No gimmicks or overrating here. I think going with those is a safe bet.

 

I would go with the Polk speakers. I have heard that those particular Infinity speakers run a bit hot and I very much enjoyed my Polks for the last 4 years. Those are essentially identical and will take quite a bit of abuse. Can't stress enough though, you're going to need to seal your doors very well.

 

I snapped another photo of my door before I put it back together. I did end up covering the hole on the top left with eDead, but before I covered it, I stuffed a few layers of fiberglass insulation in there to the side of the window rail to absorb some more of the sound. Its not a lot, but it did make a bit of a difference. To seal the large hole on the right, I cut a piece of 3.5" thick fiberglass insulation and placed that over the hole to absorb and block more of the sound.

 

Shoot me a PM if you want my phone number and I can be available to answer questions when you start installing.

 

Yeah, and im sure my Dad knows all the ins and outs of eBay, I help him run his side business so thats how im selling my computer items. 11,000 Feedback definitely seems to help sell items quicker haha.

 

Out of curiosity, is either of those amps better in your opinion then the other? All I know is the 5500 is the one that took over the 5400, but other than that they seem virtually alike. The reviews for the 5400 however are exceptionally better from the sites I read. Just want your final input on these as I will likely be putting a purchase in for them tonight.

 

Yeah that sounds good, especially since I have been leaning to those Polks all along even before I heard how much you liked them while they were in your set-up. A problem I just realized is if I use the eDead80 on the door panel the inside will be un-accessible. Does this adhesive reapply after removal? My guess is likely not...on my driver door my key hole doesn't work which might mean I need a new assembly or the latch is disconnected like my last car(pain to repair). This isn't a huge issue as I usually dont lock my car, or if I do I unlock via the passenger side but if I ever think of reselling that could be an issue. Hmm, guess the question is to repair now or continue unlocking from passenger side. I cant believe I forgot about that, didn't even think that it would be covered up after the eDead80 is applied.

 

Im going to also post a picture up when I can to give you an idea of what my door panel looks like right now if you have any pointers or recommendations, etc.

 

Another question on the amplifier, both require 8guage wire to the amp. Does this mean the current lead wire from the battery I have that I can splice it and connect it to a 8 gauge wire and put an inline fuse into the 8 gauge running to the amp and everything is fine? I would want to try and test it on the stocks to make sure that the amplifier works without any issues.

 

Thanks!

 

Finally seeing some progress, despite how small it is at least im getting closer.

 

Edit: Asked my Dad what we did last time to fix the failing key unlock on the door and he said last time the metal bracket was non existent and we had to force it back into place. So tomorrow after my finals that will give me hopefully a good four hours of sunlight to try and assess the problem and hopefully fix it. Once you reply back with your recommendation on the amplifier out of the two I will be pulling the trigger on either or either tonight or tomorrow so I will frequently be checking back for a reply.

Edited December 20, 2011 by Rick

[xtremerevolution]

Yeah, and im sure my Dad knows all the ins and outs of eBay, I help him run his side business so thats how im selling my computer items. 11,000 Feedback definitely seems to help sell items quicker haha.

 

Out of curiosity, is either of those amps better in your opinion then the other? All I know is the 5500 is the one that took over the 5400, but other than that they seem virtually alike. The reviews for the 5400 however are exceptionally better from the sites I read. Just want your final input on these as I will likely be putting a purchase in for them tonight.

 

Yeah that sounds good, especially since I have been leaning to those Polks all along even before I heard how much you liked them while they were in your set-up. A problem I just realized is if I use the eDead80 on the door panel the inside will be un-accessible. Does this adhesive reapply after removal? My guess is likely not...on my driver door my key hole doesn't work which might mean I need a new assembly or the latch is disconnected like my last car(pain to repair). This isn't a huge issue as I usually dont lock my car, or if I do I unlock via the passenger side but if I ever think of reselling that could be an issue. Hmm, guess the question is to repair now or continue unlocking from passenger side. I cant believe I forgot about that, didn't even think that it would be covered up after the eDead80 is applied.

 

Im going to also post a picture up when I can to give you an idea of what my door panel looks like right now if you have any pointers or recommendations, etc.

 

Another question on the amplifier, both require 8guage wire to the amp. Does this mean the current lead wire from the battery I have that I can splice it and connect it to a 8 gauge wire and put an inline fuse into the 8 gauge running to the amp and everything is fine? I would want to try and test it on the stocks to make sure that the amplifier works without any issues.

 

Thanks!

 

Finally seeing some progress, despite how small it is at least im getting closer.

 

Edit: Asked my Dad what we did last time to fix the failing key unlock on the door and he said last time the metal bracket was non existent and we had to force it back into place. So tomorrow after my finals that will give me hopefully a good four hours of sunlight to try and assess the problem and hopefully fix it. Once you reply back with your recommendation on the amplifier out of the two I will be pulling the trigger on either or either tonight or tomorrow so I will frequently be checking back for a reply.

 

The amps look identical, and were perhaps different series of the same amp. For example, the Kenwood KAC-7203, 7204, and 7205 are virtually the same amp, although they look different and have a different shell. I'm guessing this might be what happened here. Either way, they both look good. If it were me, I'd get two of the one with the better reviews.

 

The eDead 80 can be removed. You'll see what I'm talking about when you apply it. Its similar to gum. Ever stepped in gum before? It kinda sticks. Granted, it also stretches while this doesn't. The material consists of butyl rubber, which is similar in consistency but not in elasticity to gum, and a thin layer of foam, I believe aluminum. The rubber has an adhesive layer so you peel off the wax paper and just stick it on. Once its on there long enough, you can get it off, but its unlikely that you'll be able to re-attach it. Not that it matters too much, its not very expensive.

 

If you're concerned about the keyhole thing, you shouldn't be. If your door is anything like mine, that will be the section through which the rods go through, and that large opening cannot be patched. That's why I used a 3.5" thick sheet of fiberglass insulation to cover it, as the fiberglass absorbs and blocks sound very well. Its about the best you can do with our cars short of buying the closed cell roll from SDS which is much more expensive.

 

With regard to the amp power, you will need a distribution block. Something like this would work:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-800

 

You will also need some 8 gauge wire. Make sure its OFC (oxygen-free copper), not CCA (copper clad aluminum)! CCA will be much cheaper, but trust me, I've used it enough times to know to stay away from it.

 

You will need to make sure you get your grounds set up correctly. This is VERY important. A bad ground is like the Achilles heel of a sound system. Here's the kind of stuff I use (in the gauge I need):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-GAUGE-AWG-COPPER-UN-INSULATED-1-4-RING-CRIMP-CONNECTOR-TERMINAL-QTY-10-/220906540834?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item336f0e4f22#ht_2314wt_952

 

I can show you some pictures of the process you need to take, but the general idea is that you strip the wire of the amount that would go inside that ring, then put about 4-6 pieces of thin solder that you cut from a roll inside the end terminal. Then, you light a torch, MAPP or Propane, place it somewhere securely or have someone hold it, and with pliers holding the terminal, you slide the wire inside. Once its snug, you move it over the torch flame and keep pressure against the terminal on top of the wire. You'll know when the solder melts. Once it does, wire will slide further into the terminal a bit. Remove the terminal from the flame, blow on it or spray it with some water to cool it down, and you now have a permanent terminal attached. Sand off an area of the car's sheet metal to bare metal and use a bolt (nut and bolt) to secure the terminal to the sheet metal for the ground.

 

I have pictures of all of this if you need them, or I can explain it better on the phone. Either way, you'll need some of those terminals for your grounds.

[Rick]

The amps look identical, and were perhaps different series of the same amp. For example, the Kenwood KAC-7203, 7204, and 7205 are virtually the same amp, although they look different and have a different shell. I'm guessing this might be what happened here. Either way, they both look good. If it were me, I'd get two of the one with the better reviews.

 

The eDead 80 can be removed. You'll see what I'm talking about when you apply it. Its similar to gum. Ever stepped in gum before? It kinda sticks. Granted, it also stretches while this doesn't. The material consists of butyl rubber, which is similar in consistency but not in elasticity to gum, and a thin layer of foam, I believe aluminum. The rubber has an adhesive layer so you peel off the wax paper and just stick it on. Once its on there long enough, you can get it off, but its unlikely that you'll be able to re-attach it. Not that it matters too much, its not very expensive.

 

If you're concerned about the keyhole thing, you shouldn't be. If your door is anything like mine, that will be the section through which the rods go through, and that large opening cannot be patched. That's why I used a 3.5" thick sheet of fiberglass insulation to cover it, as the fiberglass absorbs and blocks sound very well. Its about the best you can do with our cars short of buying the closed cell roll from SDS which is much more expensive.

 

With regard to the amp power, you will need a distribution block. Something like this would work:

 

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=265-800

 

You will also need some 8 gauge wire. Make sure its OFC (oxygen-free copper), not CCA (copper clad aluminum)! CCA will be much cheaper, but trust me, I've used it enough times to know to stay away from it.

 

You will need to make sure you get your grounds set up correctly. This is VERY important. A bad ground is like the Achilles heel of a sound system. Here's the kind of stuff I use (in the gauge I need):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-GAUGE-AWG-COPPER-UN-INSULATED-1-4-RING-CRIMP-CONNECTOR-TERMINAL-QTY-10-/220906540834?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item336f0e4f22#ht_2314wt_952

 

I can show you some pictures of the process you need to take, but the general idea is that you strip the wire of the amount that would go inside that ring, then put about 4-6 pieces of thin solder that you cut from a roll inside the end terminal. Then, you light a torch, MAPP or Propane, place it somewhere securely or have someone hold it, and with pliers holding the terminal, you slide the wire inside. Once its snug, you move it over the torch flame and keep pressure against the terminal on top of the wire. You'll know when the solder melts. Once it does, wire will slide further into the terminal a bit. Remove the terminal from the flame, blow on it or spray it with some water to cool it down, and you now have a permanent terminal attached. Sand off an area of the car's sheet metal to bare metal and use a bolt (nut and bolt) to secure the terminal to the sheet metal for the ground.

 

I have pictures of all of this if you need them, or I can explain it better on the phone. Either way, you'll need some of those terminals for your grounds.

 

Okay, on Amazon they have a combo deal with the 4-8AWG Distribution box and this item..( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER ). It appears it has plenty of the ring crimp connectors like you linked on eBay along with 8 gauge wire for the ground and power cables. Seems like a good deal to me, for both the distribution box and the "kit" is a total of $18. Doesn't seem terribly bad since with shipping on parts express the distribution box alone would be around $10 with shipping. Figured it would be easier ordering everything at once on amazon too. What do you think?

 

Second question would be, where do you think the best location of the amp for the component speakers in the door would be?

 

Third question, for the "inline fuse" is that what the fuse holder in that kit is for?

 

Thanks! Off to bed...nothing like 4 hours of sleep before a major final!

[xtremerevolution]

Okay, on Amazon they have a combo deal with the 4-8AWG Distribution box and this item..( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FKP7TY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER ). It appears it has plenty of the ring crimp connectors like you linked on eBay along with 8 gauge wire for the ground and power cables. Seems like a good deal to me, for both the distribution box and the "kit" is a total of $18. Doesn't seem terribly bad since with shipping on parts express the distribution box alone would be around $10 with shipping. Figured it would be easier ordering everything at once on amazon too. What do you think?

 

Second question would be, where do you think the best location of the amp for the component speakers in the door would be?

 

Third question, for the "inline fuse" is that what the fuse holder in that kit is for?

 

Thanks! Off to bed...nothing like 4 hours of sleep before a major final!

 

That kit is cheap because it is. BOSS is crap. I'm willing to bet you that's not even 8AWG spec, but a thick jacket with a thin wire, and I'll bet you even more its CCA, not OFC. I've never seen a cheap kit include OFC. I would pick up the wire separately and perhaps even the distribution block from knukonceptz.com. If you were on a really tight budget, you could get the knukonceptz CCA wire, which is actually an oversized wire that's larger than the AWG spec to partially make up for the fact that its OFC. For trunk installs, it would probably work for you if you're on a budget crunch. Here's the OFC and CCA wire. The price difference isn't too enormous. Personally, I'd just go with the OFC wire. For the record, KNU wire is known to be very high quality and is as large or larger than its AWG spec. I don't buy my wire from anywhere else.

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX8R

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA8R

 

I did buy my wire from a different place once. Got some Pyramid brand OFC wire, specifically labeled OFC copper 4AWG. You figure if they say 4AWG then its actually 4AWG. I paid $50 shipped for 100ft of it, which is cheaper than even KNU's 8AWG wire. When it arrived, I compared it to my 4AWG spec wire and my 8AWG spec, and the wire was actually closer to 6AWG. Definitely not 4AWG. However, it was indeed copper and not CCA, so I got a great deal on it either way, but the point is that you need to know what you're buying and many companies will fudge their advertising numbers. They'll say its 4 gauge when in reality its a very thick jacket and a 8 or 6 gauge wire.

 

The inline fuse is indeed the fuse holder that the kit comes with. You can usually get those very cheap, and they do have them cheap on partsexpress.com. They're only there to protect you from electrical fires in case of a short circuit. I'd put one on the 4 gauge wire before the distribution block. The amps also have their own fuses.

 

Some people put amps under their seats. If they fit, more power to you, but make sure they have adequate ventilation. On my install I did 4 years ago, I mounted the amps to a carpeted board and mounted it to the sheet metal behind the seats. Either way, do not mount them directly to metal. Mount them to a board and make sure the screws you use don't go completely through the board. The idea is that you're trying to prevent grounding the amp chassis.

 

[Rick]

That kit is cheap because it is. BOSS is crap. I'm willing to bet you that's not even 8AWG spec, but a thick jacket with a thin wire, and I'll bet you even more its CCA, not OFC. I've never seen a cheap kit include OFC. I would pick up the wire separately and perhaps even the distribution block from knukonceptz.com. If you were on a really tight budget, you could get the knukonceptz CCA wire, which is actually an oversized wire that's larger than the AWG spec to partially make up for the fact that its OFC. For trunk installs, it would probably work for you if you're on a budget crunch. Here's the OFC and CCA wire. The price difference isn't too enormous. Personally, I'd just go with the OFC wire. For the record, KNU wire is known to be very high quality and is as large or larger than its AWG spec. I don't buy my wire from anywhere else.

 

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX8R

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KCA8R

 

I did buy my wire from a different place once. Got some Pyramid brand OFC wire, specifically labeled OFC copper 4AWG. You figure if they say 4AWG then its actually 4AWG. I paid $50 shipped for 100ft of it, which is cheaper than even KNU's 8AWG wire. When it arrived, I compared it to my 4AWG spec wire and my 8AWG spec, and the wire was actually closer to 6AWG. Definitely not 4AWG. However, it was indeed copper and not CCA, so I got a great deal on it either way, but the point is that you need to know what you're buying and many companies will fudge their advertising numbers. They'll say its 4 gauge when in reality its a very thick jacket and a 8 or 6 gauge wire.

 

The inline fuse is indeed the fuse holder that the kit comes with. You can usually get those very cheap, and they do have them cheap on partsexpress.com. They're only there to protect you from electrical fires in case of a short circuit. I'd put one on the 4 gauge wire before the distribution block. The amps also have their own fuses.

 

Some people put amps under their seats. If they fit, more power to you, but make sure they have adequate ventilation. On my install I did 4 years ago, I mounted the amps to a carpeted board and mounted it to the sheet metal behind the seats. Either way, do not mount them directly to metal. Mount them to a board and make sure the screws you use don't go completely through the board. The idea is that you're trying to prevent grounding the amp chassis.

 

 

I have always known BOSS as a brand was very low quality for their speakers and head units, I was unsure about their "packages". Thanks for that insight though, if im not mistaken the only different between OFC and CCA wire is that CCA has a lower conductivity which in turn means the resistance of that wire would be higher, unless the CCA was 2x the size of the OFC wire to make the resistance even?

 

How many feet of the OFC 8gauge wire do you think I would need? As I mentioned before I have the 4guage wire running from the battery to the trunk. It also looks like the guy used those soldering crimps you suggested for connecting to the battery terminal.

 

Would something like this work for it then?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=070-660

Do you know what power of a fuse I would need?

 

I have a feeling that I will be unable to fit it under my seat, I however do have a fair amount of room under the dash near the passengers feet, im not sure if its feasible to mount there though.

 

If I get two amps I just run the 4guage to the distribution box and then run two wires to the two amplifiers? I have a feeling for now I will just be getting the one amplifier until money allows for a second and a subwoofer setup(Probably around January and at least after New Year). But I will be ordering the pair of DB5251 speakers, the distribution box, the inline fuse(linked above if you think it is a good choice), the eDead80(probably around 25sqft you thought?), the set of crimps you linked, and however much you suggest of the 8 gauge wire I should purchase. If im missing anything right there feel free to chime in.

 

Also, for the blue remote turn on wire for the amp, what type of wire do I need for that?

 

I think I will mount the amplifier to the backside of my seat, I want to say the back side is some sort of particle board? Very hard, not metal however. Otherwise I could always mount it next to my convertible pump, or would that cause interference from the wires?

 

Instead of the eDead80 could this be a better alternative? Getting two quarts would be approx 25sqft. Adheres to Plastic and metal, also have a paint gun here at the house.

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=452

Edited December 21, 2011 by Rick

[Garrett Powered]

I have always known BOSS as a brand was very low quality for their speakers and head units, I was unsure about their "packages". Thanks for that insight though, if im not mistaken the only different between OFC and CCA wire is that CCA has a lower conductivity which in turn means the resistance of that wire would be higher, unless the CCA was 2x the size of the OFC wire to make the resistance even?

 

How many feet of the OFC 8gauge wire do you think I would need? As I mentioned before I have the 4guage wire running from the battery to the trunk. It also looks like the guy used those soldering crimps you suggested for connecting to the battery terminal.

 

Would something like this work for it then?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=070-660

Do you know what power of a fuse I would need?

 

I have a feeling that I will be unable to fit it under my seat, I however do have a fair amount of room under the dash near the passengers feet, im not sure if its feasible to mount there though.

 

If I get two amps I just run the 4guage to the distribution box and then run two wires to the two amplifiers? I have a feeling for now I will just be getting the one amplifier until money allows for a second and a subwoofer setup(Probably around January and at least after New Year). But I will be ordering the pair of DB5251 speakers, the distribution box, the inline fuse(linked above if you think it is a good choice), the eDead80(probably around 25sqft you thought?), the set of crimps you linked, and however much you suggest of the 8 gauge wire I should purchase. If im missing anything right there feel free to chime in.

 

Also, for the blue remote turn on wire for the amp, what type of wire do I need for that?

 

I think I will mount the amplifier to the backside of my seat, I want to say the back side is some sort of particle board? Very hard, not metal however. Otherwise I could always mount it next to my convertible pump, or would that cause interference from the wires?

 

Instead of the eDead80 could this be a better alternative? Getting two quarts would be approx 25sqft. Adheres to Plastic and metal, also have a paint gun here at the house.

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=452

 

 

those fuses are a pretty outdated design. you should try a ANL style large blade fuse. those are all I use anymore.

 

go to ebay though. you should get one for well under 10 bucks shipped there.

Edited December 21, 2011 by Garrett Powered

[Rick]

those fuses are a pretty outdated design. you should try a ANL style large blade fuse. those are all I use anymore.

 

go to ebay though. you should get one for well under 10 bucks shipped there.

 

Something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-8-Gauge-AWG-Ga-Mini-ANL-Fuse-Holder-MIDI-Free-Fuse-/200690313578?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eba13296a

I am confused on knowing what amp fuse I would need..

[xtremerevolution]

I have always known BOSS as a brand was very low quality for their speakers and head units, I was unsure about their "packages". Thanks for that insight though, if im not mistaken the only different between OFC and CCA wire is that CCA has a lower conductivity which in turn means the resistance of that wire would be higher, unless the CCA was 2x the size of the OFC wire to make the resistance even?

 

How many feet of the OFC 8gauge wire do you think I would need? As I mentioned before I have the 4guage wire running from the battery to the trunk. It also looks like the guy used those soldering crimps you suggested for connecting to the battery terminal.

 

Would something like this work for it then?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=070-660

Do you know what power of a fuse I would need?

 

I have a feeling that I will be unable to fit it under my seat, I however do have a fair amount of room under the dash near the passengers feet, im not sure if its feasible to mount there though.

 

If I get two amps I just run the 4guage to the distribution box and then run two wires to the two amplifiers? I have a feeling for now I will just be getting the one amplifier until money allows for a second and a subwoofer setup(Probably around January and at least after New Year). But I will be ordering the pair of DB5251 speakers, the distribution box, the inline fuse(linked above if you think it is a good choice), the eDead80(probably around 25sqft you thought?), the set of crimps you linked, and however much you suggest of the 8 gauge wire I should purchase. If im missing anything right there feel free to chime in.

 

Also, for the blue remote turn on wire for the amp, what type of wire do I need for that?

 

I think I will mount the amplifier to the backside of my seat, I want to say the back side is some sort of particle board? Very hard, not metal however. Otherwise I could always mount it next to my convertible pump, or would that cause interference from the wires?

 

Instead of the eDead80 could this be a better alternative? Getting two quarts would be approx 25sqft. Adheres to Plastic and metal, also have a paint gun here at the house.

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_24&products_id=452

 

The difference between OFC and CCA is greater. To start, CCA will have a higher voltage drop. To compare CCA needs to be 0/1 gauge in order to have the same voltage drop is a 2AWG OFC wire. That's a pretty large difference.

 

The other difference is oxidization. The reason why CCA is copper clad is because it would otherwise oxidize very quickly, and it turns out that the copper cladding doesn't really last all that long. Quick story here; 3 years ago I upgraded my engine bay wiring with 0/1 gauge KNU CCA wire. I felt pretty badass and it worked well for a while. Early this year, my car started having trouble starting. I would crank they key and hear a click, then try again, and it would start. It was strange, but it worked. A few days later when I went to church, my car wouldn't start. I checked all of my wiring briefly to make sure it was all still secure and I figured my starter was bad. I hit the solenoid with a hammer hoping to dislodge it, and somehow the terminal broke off. GREAT. Problem is, starters are like $150. I ended up finding a closeout sale on rockauto, for $90, had it shipped 2 day, and went to replace it. In 26 degrees with a tarp on the ground in the parking lot, I replaced my starter in under 30 minutes. Tried to crank my car over again, NOTHING. I then went over and tried to yank hard on all of my power wires. 5 seconds of wiggling the chassis to block ground wire and it broke loose, and I don't just mean it came out of the crimp, I mean I had 3/4" of wire sticking out of the crimp, and the CCA wire broke off INSIDE the jacket. After removing it, I found 3 more places in the wire where the wire was extremely stiff (keep in mind, this wire is advertised as being ridiculously flexible). Turns out it had oxidized as well. CCA + engine bay = BAD NEWS. It does not hold up well to humidity and heat changes. In fact, contractors have been getting sued the last 10 years for using CCA in homes for wiring because it starts to oxidize and overheat, causing electrical fires. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra few cents on OFC.

 

I'm not sure how much you'll need. Are you wiring up just the trunk area? If so, 10 feet or so should do it. If you're wiring other places, you'll have to use your best judgment. Don't forget about grounds.

 

For the remote wire, anything works. In the past, I've split old 20 or 22 gauge speaker wire. It really doesn't matter what you use here.

 

Correct. you run the 4 gauge into the distribution block, and then 8 gauge wire from there on out. If you shop around, you could probably find a fused distribution block so you don't need the inline fuse.

 

I'd go for 30 feet of edead. Keep in mind, you'll also want to add some around your rear speakers as those panels will resonate too. You probably won't need to do a whole lot of sealing there, but you will need to reduce panel resonance.

 

That sprayable stuff won't do. Remember what I said about your door looking like swiss chese? You need to cover up the holes. You don't see the holes in my door because I covered them up already. You'll need some kind of material to seal the backwaves from the front waves, not just deaden the panels.

 

As for the fuses, a fuse is a fuse, seriously. Its there to protect you from a short circuit and nothing else. I use two AGU fuses in my fused distribution block and I can't say there's anything wrong with doing it that way. Unless anyone can give me a reason to believe that one is better than the other (aside from ANL fuses having a generally higher capacity), you can use either one.

 

You could run something like this if you wanted to. Its a fused distribution block, one 4AWG in, two 8AWG out:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-OUT-BIG-AGU-FUSE-DISTRIBUTION-POWER-BLOCK-4-8-AWG-GAUGE-RT14-US-SELLER-/260916325620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfd32cf4#ht_1808wt_1163

 

$6 and you'd need to pick up a couple of fuses. Match the fuses to what's on your amp and you'll be good to go. I don't think you're pulling enough current to need an ANL fuse.

Edited December 21, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

The difference between OFC and CCA is greater. To start, CCA will have a higher voltage drop. To compare CCA needs to be 0/1 gauge in order to have the same voltage drop is a 2AWG OFC wire. That's a pretty large difference.

 

The other difference is oxidization. The reason why CCA is copper clad is because it would otherwise oxidize very quickly, and it turns out that the copper cladding doesn't really last all that long. Quick story here; 3 years ago I upgraded my engine bay wiring with 0/1 gauge KNU CCA wire. I felt pretty badass and it worked well for a while. Early this year, my car started having trouble starting. I would crank they key and hear a click, then try again, and it would start. It was strange, but it worked. A few days later when I went to church, my car wouldn't start. I checked all of my wiring briefly to make sure it was all still secure and I figured my starter was bad. I hit the solenoid with a hammer hoping to dislodge it, and somehow the terminal broke off. GREAT. Problem is, starters are like $150. I ended up finding a closeout sale on rockauto, for $90, had it shipped 2 day, and went to replace it. In 26 degrees with a tarp on the ground in the parking lot, I replaced my starter in under 30 minutes. Tried to crank my car over again, NOTHING. I then went over and tried to yank hard on all of my power wires. 5 seconds of wiggling the chassis to block ground wire and it broke loose, and I don't just mean it came out of the crimp, I mean I had 3/4" of wire sticking out of the crimp, and the CCA wire broke off INSIDE the jacket. After removing it, I found 3 more places in the wire where the wire was extremely stiff (keep in mind, this wire is advertised as being ridiculously flexible). Turns out it had oxidized as well. CCA + engine bay = BAD NEWS. It does not hold up well to humidity and heat changes. In fact, contractors have been getting sued the last 10 years for using CCA in homes for wiring because it starts to oxidize and overheat, causing electrical fires. Do yourself a favor and spend the extra few cents on OFC.

 

I'm not sure how much you'll need. Are you wiring up just the trunk area? If so, 10 feet or so should do it. If you're wiring other places, you'll have to use your best judgment. Don't forget about grounds.

 

For the remote wire, anything works. In the past, I've split old 20 or 22 gauge speaker wire. It really doesn't matter what you use here.

 

Correct. you run the 4 gauge into the distribution block, and then 8 gauge wire from there on out. If you shop around, you could probably find a fused distribution block so you don't need the inline fuse.

 

I'd go for 30 feet of edead. Keep in mind, you'll also want to add some around your rear speakers as those panels will resonate too. You probably won't need to do a whole lot of sealing there, but you will need to reduce panel resonance.

 

That sprayable stuff won't do. Remember what I said about your door looking like swiss chese? You need to cover up the holes. You don't see the holes in my door because I covered them up already. You'll need some kind of material to seal the backwaves from the front waves, not just deaden the panels.

 

As for the fuses, a fuse is a fuse, seriously. Its there to protect you from a short circuit and nothing else. I use two AGU fuses in my fused distribution block and I can't say there's anything wrong with doing it that way. Unless anyone can give me a reason to believe that one is better than the other (aside from ANL fuses having a generally higher capacity), you can use either one.

 

You could run something like this if you wanted to. Its a fused distribution block, one 4AWG in, two 8AWG out:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-OUT-BIG-AGU-FUSE-DISTRIBUTION-POWER-BLOCK-4-8-AWG-GAUGE-RT14-US-SELLER-/260916325620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfd32cf4#ht_1808wt_1163

 

$6 and you'd need to pick up a couple of fuses. Match the fuses to what's on your amp and you'll be good to go. I don't think you're pulling enough current to need an ANL fuse.

 

That helped clear up a little of the CCA VS OFC, all in all its a few dollars if that were talking about on >10ft. Yes, I am just wiring the trunk area.

 

After I made that post I realized that, I think that liquid may do very well however on the floor of the car if you removed the seats, carpet, console, etc. However thats far out of my reach, but an interesting thought. I used to also be a member of 60degreev6 and while I was looking around in their audio section I noticed a few postings about RAAMATT, who I guess was also a former member. The material he sells seems to get exceptionally well reviews along with his customer support is top notch from what I have read. I also read his How-To on his website, which did help a lot on what you were trying to explain to me about how the material needs to be applied. Now I virtually have no further misunderstandings(right now at least, ha) on the sound deadening application process. He also incorporated a interesting idea of adding a structure behind the large gaps in a door panel by putting almost a aluminum mesh and threaded to the door to allow for better application. I am not sure if you have any opinions on the RAAMATT I am talking about, but if you do feel free to let me know.

 

Thats what I was asking was what the fuse needed to match, so that makes sense.

 

Oh, and before I forget. I dont believe I already asked you this, but if I did sorry, but when applying the sound deadener do you want everything to be already installed such as speakers hooked to amplifier, esentially everything in working order before applying it?

 

Thanks again for all the help!

Edited December 21, 2011 by Rick

[xtremerevolution]

That helped clear up a little of the CCA VS OFC, all in all its a few dollars if that were talking about on >10ft. Yes, I am just wiring the trunk area.

 

After I made that post I realized that, I think that liquid may do very well however on the floor of the car if you removed the seats, carpet, console, etc. However thats far out of my reach, but an interesting thought. I used to also be a member of 60degreev6 and while I was looking around in their audio section I noticed a few postings about RAAMATT, who I guess was also a former member. The material he sells seems to get exceptionally well reviews along with his customer support is top notch from what I have read. I also read his How-To on his website, which did help a lot on what you were trying to explain to me about how the material needs to be applied. Now I virtually have no further misunderstandings(right now at least, ha) on the sound deadening application process. He also incorporated a interesting idea of adding a structure behind the large gaps in a door panel by putting almost a aluminum mesh and threaded to the door to allow for better application. I am not sure if you have any opinions on the RAAMATT I am talking about, but if you do feel free to let me know.

 

Thats what I was asking was what the fuse needed to match, so that makes sense.

 

Oh, and before I forget. I dont believe I already asked you this, but if I did sorry, but when applying the sound deadener do you want everything to be already installed such as speakers hooked to amplifier, esentially everything in working order before applying it?

 

Thanks again for all the help!

 

The liquid stuff would work if you removed the carpet and etc, but that's quite a bit of work. Its up to you if you ever want to go that far. I haven't found a need yet.

 

RAAMATT is excellent stuff. The reason I didn't recommend it is price. Have you looked through the website yet to see what the prices are? From my understanding, you were on a budget, so I provided you the most cost effective way to do a decent job given your budget. You're more than welcome to buy the RAAMAT stuff and I'd even recommend it if you had that kind of budget, but you're needing to seal up holes in your doors as well as deaden vibrations that cause panel resonance. eDead40 and eDead80 isn't the best stuff out there by any means, but from my experiences, it does the job fairly well and is very affordable.

 

Usually, I apply sound deadener first. I apply it to the speaker mounting pods inside and out to make those a bit thicker, I apply it to the doors, the rear deck, and anywhere else that might rattle or resonate when I'm playing music. All in all, I think I've gone through a good 160 square feet of eDead over the cars I've worked on including my own. Remember, you are trying to achieve two things with this stuff:

 

1. reduce panel resonance

2. seal the doors to separate the backwaves of the speaker from the frontwaves

 

The 2nd objective will require you to reinforce your baffle (speaker mounting pod) as much as possible as well as the area around it. Install is everything in car audio. I can make a set of cheap Cadence comps (which are actually not half bad) in a properly installed door sound better than a set of high end Focal or Morel comps in a poorly installed door. Your sound system is only as good as your install, and I've seen people spend $500 on a set of front components and completely ignore the need for proper sealing, deadening, and reduction of panel resonance. If you want your speakers to sound decent, this is something you need to put a good deal of thought and effort into. The results will be nothing short of impressive.

 

Another thing I want to mention, as an added measure, you should space out your amplifiers from the board using spacers to keep them cooler. Some amps have heat issues in the summer when flush mounted to a board. You can get them in plastic/nylon at most home improvement stores in a variety of sizes. Here's how mine looked:

 

[Rick]

The liquid stuff would work if you removed the carpet and etc, but that's quite a bit of work. Its up to you if you ever want to go that far. I haven't found a need yet.

 

RAAMATT is excellent stuff. The reason I didn't recommend it is price. Have you looked through the website yet to see what the prices are? From my understanding, you were on a budget, so I provided you the most cost effective way to do a decent job given your budget. You're more than welcome to buy the RAAMAT stuff and I'd even recommend it if you had that kind of budget, but you're needing to seal up holes in your doors as well as deaden vibrations that cause panel resonance. eDead40 and eDead80 isn't the best stuff out there by any means, but from my experiences, it does the job fairly well and is very affordable.

 

Usually, I apply sound deadener first. I apply it to the speaker mounting pods inside and out to make those a bit thicker, I apply it to the doors, the rear deck, and anywhere else that might rattle or resonate when I'm playing music. All in all, I think I've gone through a good 160 square feet of eDead over the cars I've worked on including my own. Remember, you are trying to achieve two things with this stuff:

 

1. reduce panel resonance

2. seal the doors to separate the backwaves of the speaker from the frontwaves

 

The 2nd objective will require you to reinforce your baffle (speaker mounting pod) as much as possible as well as the area around it. Install is everything in car audio. I can make a set of cheap Cadence comps (which are actually not half bad) in a properly installed door sound better than a set of high end Focal or Morel comps in a poorly installed door. Your sound system is only as good as your install, and I've seen people spend $500 on a set of front components and completely ignore the need for proper sealing, deadening, and reduction of panel resonance. If you want your speakers to sound decent, this is something you need to put a good deal of thought and effort into. The results will be nothing short of impressive.

 

Another thing I want to mention, as an added measure, you should space out your amplifiers from the board using spacers to keep them cooler. Some amps have heat issues in the summer when flush mounted to a board. You can get them in plastic/nylon at most home improvement stores in a variety of sizes. Here's how mine looked:

 

 

Well shipping costs aside, 28sqft of eDead80 costs $56.00 and 28sqft of RAAMAT costs $40.00, this is all excluding shipping costs. So I guess that is why I am partially confused since RAAMAT seems to be the superior product and is offered at a lesser price. Maybe you can take a look at this incase im making some sort of calculation wrong here.

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=786{SALT}4a7d1ed414474e4033ac29ccb8653d9b

 

http://www.raamaudio.com/products/Ensolite-IUO-Peel-and-Stick.html

 

The eDead80 should be $2.00 per sqft, versus 14sqft of RAMMAT for $20.00.

Per sqft RAMMAT costs $1.43(rounded)

 

As of right now it appears I am going to get all the necessary equipment EXCEPT for the sound deadening material as of now. Right now I have $210 with numerous more items waiting to sell so I figure I will get a jump on it and start assembling the amplifier and running wires to and from it so that when I have the cash for the sound deadening material(*within a week or two) that will be all I need to apply to finish the front sound system of the car. That, and it will allow me to ensure that the amplifier is running A-Okay and that there are no issues before everything is sealed up.

 

Looks like this is what I will be ordering either late tonight or tomorrow...(Just c\p email I sent my Dad)

Distribution Box with Fuse inside, need to purchase separate fuses that match the amplifiers value.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-OUT-BIG-AGU-FUSE-DISTRIBUTION-POWER-BLOCK-4-8-AWG-GAUGE-RT14-US-SELLER-/260916325620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cbfd32cf4#ht_1808wt_1163

 

10FT of Power/Ground wire 8Gauge

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX8R

 

Amplifier

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pioneer-GM-5400T-Amplifiers-Free-Shipping-/310365485770?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item4843397aca#payId

 

Speakers

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB5251-5-25-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0PFA0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324368300&sr=8-1

 

Guy on Forum suggested these for terminal connections and grounding with the soldering, may be possible in lower quantities at lowes or home depot?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8-GAUGE-AWG-COPPER-UN-INSULATED-1-4-RING-CRIMP-CONNECTOR-TERMINAL-QTY-10-/220906540834?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&vxp=mtr&hash=item336f0e4f22#ht_2314wt_952

 

Total Cost...

Dist Box w/ Fuse: $8.00

10FT OFC 8Gauge Wire:$7.00 Plus Shipping

Amplifier:$51.00

Speakers:$102.00

Crimp Connectors:Max $7 for 10

...Total is less then $180 with a guess on the shipping of wire of $4.00

 

When Cash allows I plan on getting around 28/30sqft of sound deadening material...

either of these two:

http://www.raamaudio.com/products/Ensolite-IUO-Peel-and-Stick.html

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=786{SALT}4a7d1ed414474e4033ac29ccb8653d9b

That will be between $50-$70.

 

Thanks also for the mention about the spacers for the amp, hadn't even crossed my mind. That will be nice especially since Missouri weather can get very humid and very hot easily in the mid 100's with extreme humidity.

[xtremerevolution]

Well shipping costs aside, 28sqft of eDead80 costs $56.00 and 28sqft of RAAMAT costs $40.00, this is all excluding shipping costs. So I guess that is why I am partially confused since RAAMAT seems to be the superior product and is offered at a lesser price. Maybe you can take a look at this incase im making some sort of calculation wrong here.

 

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?products_id=786{SALT}4a7d1ed414474e4033ac29ccb8653d9b

 

http://www.raamaudio.com/products/Ensolite-IUO-Peel-and-Stick.html

 

The eDead80 should be $2.00 per sqft, versus 14sqft of RAMMAT for $20.00.

Per sqft RAMMAT costs $1.43(rounded)

 

As of right now it appears I am going to get all the necessary equipment EXCEPT for the sound deadening material as of now. Right now I have $210 with numerous more items waiting to sell so I figure I will get a jump on it and start assembling the amplifier and running wires to and from it so that when I have the cash for the sound deadening material(*within a week or two) that will be all I need to apply to finish the front sound system of the car. That, and it will allow me to ensure that the amplifier is running A-Okay and that there are no issues before everything is sealed up.

 

Looks like this is what I will be ordering either late tonight or tomorrow...(Just c\p email I sent my Dad)

 

Thanks also for the mention about the spacers for the amp, hadn't even crossed my mind. That will be nice especially since Missouri weather can get very humid and very hot easily in the mid 100's with extreme humidity.

 

You're comparing two entirely different products made for two entirely different purposes. The RAAMAT you looked at there is something you'd line the inside of your door with to absorb sound waves, and perhaps use to also seal your door, but it won't reduce panel resonance or vibration. Its a foam, not a butyl rubber based product that absorbs vibrations. A complete RAAMAT install uses the ensolite foam in addition to their RAAMAT BXT layer:

 

http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html

 

So when you put those two together, you can see how the cost starts to easily exceed what you're looking at. Again, you need to seal as well as dampen vibrations. For a one step solution, its hard to do it for any cheaper. When used correctly, RAAMAT is a superior product, but its going to raise your install cost a bit.

 

Hope that makes more sense.

[Rick]

You're comparing two entirely different products made for two entirely different purposes. The RAAMAT you looked at there is something you'd line the inside of your door with to absorb sound waves, and perhaps use to also seal your door, but it won't reduce panel resonance or vibration. Its a foam, not a butyl rubber based product that absorbs vibrations. A complete RAAMAT install uses the ensolite foam in addition to their RAAMAT BXT layer:

 

http://www.raamaudio.com/products/RAAMmat-BXT-II.html

 

So when you put those two together, you can see how the cost starts to easily exceed what you're looking at. Again, you need to seal as well as dampen vibrations. For a one step solution, its hard to do it for any cheaper. When used correctly, RAAMAT is a superior product, but its going to raise your install cost a bit.

 

Hope that makes more sense.

 

Makes much more sense. I went back and re-read this more carefully (http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%252dTo.htm) and the first time I missed the picture of the BXT Layer on the exterior of the door and only noticed their foam layer above it. In perspective now I can see how the eDead80 is far less expensive. This is exactly why I come to the forums before making most of my purchases; especially if I don't know too much in the area im buying from otherwise I would be completely backwards right now with all the wrong parts ordered haha.

[xtremerevolution]

Makes much more sense. I went back and re-read this more carefully (http://www.raamaudio.com/pages/How%2dTo.htm) and the first time I missed the picture of the BXT Layer on the exterior of the door and only noticed their foam layer above it. In perspective now I can see how the eDead80 is far less expensive. This is exactly why I come to the forums before making most of my purchases; especially if I don't know too much in the area im buying from otherwise I would be completely backwards right now with all the wrong parts ordered haha.

 

Yeah, once you add the BXT layer, its not as cheap. I've discovered that its always better to ask for advise before spending hard earned money, and that applies to me as well. I've learned my fair share this year and saved myself a lot of headache by asking for advice first.

[Garrett Powered]

yep that CCA wire is dog shit. I cant believe I accidentally bought some from ebay a little while ago and didn't realize it. I was mad.

[xtremerevolution]

yep that CCA wire is dog shit. I cant believe I accidentally bought some from ebay a little while ago and didn't realize it. I was mad.

 

Yeah. I do have to shamefully admit that I use the KNU CCA wire in my trunk where its more temperature and moisture controlled, but I bought it before I had that problem and before I knew better. The moment I see a single problem, I'm gutting it all and replacing it with OFC. At least the KNU CCA wire is oversized to the point where I have a pretty hard time fitting it into any AWG spec terminals or distribution blocks.

 

My engine bay now uses all OFC.

[Garrett Powered]

yeah I bought that fuse holder but haven't used it. I got a kicker ANL fuse holder I found in my stash and used instead. I might not use that ebay crap ever now that I think about it. don't know why I said to go there... parts express cheap cable I bought was at least made of copper.

 

I cant believe ebay lets them have pictures of cars and stereos in the ad as if it was actually car stereo wire. it needs to say ALUMINUM WIRE in the title.

[xtremerevolution]

yeah I bought that fuse holder but haven't used it. I got a kicker ANL fuse holder I found in my stash and used instead. I might not use that ebay crap ever now that I think about it. don't know why I said to go there... parts express cheap cable I bought was at least made of copper.

 

I cant believe ebay lets them have pictures of cars and stereos in the ad as if it was actually car stereo wire. it needs to say ALUMINUM WIRE in the title.

 

Yeah, ebay has become one of the worst places to buy and sell anything that's new. Its pretty annoying how poorly their listings are written. They did it to themselves though, muscling out the little guys. PartsExpress is my first stop for accessories. I usually get their speaker wire for $7.xx for 100ft of 18gauge OFC (which at under 15 feet is more than you'll ever need in a car with the exception of the sub), and KNU is my choice for power wire.

[Rick]

Yeah, ebay has become one of the worst places to buy and sell anything that's new. Its pretty annoying how poorly their listings are written. They did it to themselves though, muscling out the little guys. PartsExpress is my first stop for accessories. I usually get their speaker wire for $7.xx for 100ft of 18gauge OFC (which at under 15 feet is more than you'll ever need in a car with the exception of the sub), and KNU is my choice for power wire.

 

I'm not sure if I would go as far to say that, as long as you carefully read the listing descriptions your fine buying things new. My rule is if it doesn't list important specifications such as what is included with the purchase or things like CCA or OFC wire I send the vendor a email and don't make a purchase until my questions are verified. Then again, I'm probably used to seeing my Dads items on eBay which are well written so maybe I have a slight bias. Not to get too far off-topic haha.

 

Amplifier has been ordered due to low quantities last night(guy sold 3 yesterday) and should be ordering the wiring, crimps and distribution box today. About to go out and start vacuuming the inside of the door out, there is quite a lot of crap in it that has built up over the last 15 years. If the sun stays up long enough too ill probably be running the blue remote turn on wire to the trunk so when the amp gets here ill have a little head start. Ill get you that picture of the door too finally like I've been saying.

[xtremerevolution]

I'm not sure if I would go as far to say that, as long as you carefully read the listing descriptions your fine buying things new. My rule is if it doesn't list important specifications such as what is included with the purchase or things like CCA or OFC wire I send the vendor a email and don't make a purchase until my questions are verified. Then again, I'm probably used to seeing my Dads items on eBay which are well written so maybe I have a slight bias. Not to get too far off-topic haha.

 

Amplifier has been ordered due to low quantities last night(guy sold 3 yesterday) and should be ordering the wiring, crimps and distribution box today. About to go out and start vacuuming the inside of the door out, there is quite a lot of crap in it that has built up over the last 15 years. If the sun stays up long enough too ill probably be running the blue remote turn on wire to the trunk so when the amp gets here ill have a little head start. Ill get you that picture of the door too finally like I've been saying.

 

Ebay has been in a downward spiral ever since they got a taste of the almighty dollar. It became severe when they raised their fees last year. For standard small sellers (which is the community that made eBay what it is today), the final value fees went up from 3.75% to 9%. Paypal fees are 2.9% + $0.29. To make matters worse, there is ZERO seller protection. You can sell a guy a built transmission, and he can file a significantly not as described dispute, send you back his busted transmission, and he'd win the case because Paypal always favors the buyer. How do I know? Its happened before. You can send out a $300 car amp to someone and they can send you back a 2 liter bottle of water and walk away with your amp. The only payment I accept from people via paypal is paypal gift, which by using, you waive your right to file a dispute.

 

I'm guilty of taking advantage of this system, but for a different reason. A guy in Florida sold me a laptop. It was a 15.4" laptop. He put it in a flat rate USPS box with NO packaging. The edges actually bulged out because the box was too small. It arrived with several cracks in the casing. I told him how much it would cost to repair it and he refused to give me a partial refund. I filed a paypal dispute for a damaged item, and had to send it back to get a refund. Keep in mind, I lost $20 on the return shipping and a couple of hours of my time, which (not to be a snob) is not free. I replaced his good hard drive with a broken one and gave him a cracked screen and kept the good one for the trouble he caused me and time and $20 I had to pay to return the piece of crap he didn't package correctly. He messaged me back with threats that he'd sue and I never heard from him since then. I then regretted that I hadn't taken a shit on the keyboard and closed the lid before sending it out. It is THAT easy to screw someone on ebay.

 

I'm sure your dad felt it when they raised the fees. 12% is a huge chunk to take out of someone's sale, and that includes the shipping cost. So, when I have to buy something, I give eBay as little of my money as possible.

Edited December 21, 2011 by xtremerevolution

[Rick]

Ebay has been in a downward spiral ever since they got a taste of the almighty dollar. It became severe when they raised their fees last year. For standard small sellers (which is the community that made eBay what it is today), the final value fees went up from 3.75% to 9%. Paypal fees are 2.9% + $0.29. To make matters worse, there is ZERO seller protection. You can sell a guy a built transmission, and he can file a significantly not as described dispute, send you back his busted transmission, and he'd win the case because Paypal always favors the buyer. How do I know? Its happened before. You can send out a $300 car amp to someone and they can send you back a 2 liter bottle of water and walk away with your amp. The only payment I accept from people via paypal is paypal gift, which by using, you waive your right to file a dispute.

 

I'm guilty of taking advantage of this system, but for a different reason. A guy in Florida sold me a laptop. It was a 15.4" laptop. He put it in a flat rate USPS box with NO packaging. The edges actually bulged out because the box was too small. It arrived with several cracks in the casing. I told him how much it would cost to repair it and he refused to give me a partial refund. I filed a paypal dispute for a damaged item, and had to send it back to get a refund. Keep in mind, I lost $20 on the return shipping and a couple of hours of my time, which (not to be a snob) is not free. I replaced his good hard drive with a broken one and gave him a cracked screen and kept the good one for the trouble he caused me and time and $20 I had to pay to return the piece of crap he didn't package correctly. He messaged me back with threats that he'd sue and I never heard from him since then. I then regretted that I hadn't taken a shit on the keyboard and closed the lid before sending it out. It is THAT easy to screw someone on ebay.

 

I'm sure your dad felt it when they raised the fees. 12% is a huge chunk to take out of someone's sale, and that includes the shipping cost. So, when I have to buy something, I give eBay as little of my money as possible.

 

Yeah, I have heard things like that. Someone did that when my Dad sold his last computer parts, was someone over-seas which made it even harder. Guy basically filed a Paypal dispute and won. Heard him have numerous other occasions like this, but luckily printer parts are not a high-theft item. Yeah I remember hearing about the percentage increase which was frustrating for me because around that time I was trying to offload my old computer parts like how I am right now.

 

They also changed their rating system, if your not given 5 stars for everything you are penalized essentially. Im not sure exactly how much, but I know when my dads average dropped by .1 it was a fairly large knock. Were talking going from 5/5 Star average to 4.9/5Stars.

 

Just in case you didn't know, ALWAYS take pictures of all serial numbers or identification numbers on electronics. I'm sure you already knew of this, but there are many people who buy certain items who buy DOA/Broken items and will claim it arrived that way. They will then send you back the broken part and keeping the good part. Unless you have pictures of the identification numbers you really are screwed, but then again if the buyer really wants to he can always file a dispute etc and generally most sellers dont see it as worth the time to file a counter against them.

 

I hate getting things inadequately packed...I have always packed things to where they are very tight. Dad tells me if you can hear anything rattling around in a box you need more paper/peanuts/etc because if it gets damaged paying to have it shipped back out to them cancels all profits.

 

Back to the sound system...I'm about to upload a few pictures of the door panel. I'm also a little confused on which wire is the remote wire for the amp, I would assume a 2011 Model Pioneer would have it. I'm going to try reading the manual though. The previous owner really bought some long RCA wires. I didn't realize how much I bundled up behind the stereo but there's a good 10-12ft behind the stereo in addition to it running from the stereo to the trunk. Not sure of brand or whether it is OFC or CCA but it says High Performance on the wire sleeve.

[xtremerevolution]

Yeah, I have heard things like that. Someone did that when my Dad sold his last computer parts, was someone over-seas which made it even harder. Guy basically filed a Paypal dispute and won. Heard him have numerous other occasions like this, but luckily printer parts are not a high-theft item. Yeah I remember hearing about the percentage increase which was frustrating for me because around that time I was trying to offload my old computer parts like how I am right now.

 

They also changed their rating system, if your not given 5 stars for everything you are penalized essentially. Im not sure exactly how much, but I know when my dads average dropped by .1 it was a fairly large knock. Were talking going from 5/5 Star average to 4.9/5Stars.

 

Just in case you didn't know, ALWAYS take pictures of all serial numbers or identification numbers on electronics. I'm sure you already knew of this, but there are many people who buy certain items who buy DOA/Broken items and will claim it arrived that way. They will then send you back the broken part and keeping the good part. Unless you have pictures of the identification numbers you really are screwed, but then again if the buyer really wants to he can always file a dispute etc and generally most sellers dont see it as worth the time to file a counter against them.

 

I hate getting things inadequately packed...I have always packed things to where they are very tight. Dad tells me if you can hear anything rattling around in a box you need more paper/peanuts/etc because if it gets damaged paying to have it shipped back out to them cancels all profits.

 

Back to the sound system...I'm about to upload a few pictures of the door panel. I'm also a little confused on which wire is the remote wire for the amp, I would assume a 2011 Model Pioneer would have it. I'm going to try reading the manual though. The previous owner really bought some long RCA wires. I didn't realize how much I bundled up behind the stereo but there's a good 10-12ft behind the stereo in addition to it running from the stereo to the trunk. Not sure of brand or whether it is OFC or CCA but it says High Performance on the wire sleeve.

 

The manual should have a pinout diagram of the wires that tells you which one is which. I'm guessing by RCA wires you mean the ones that went to the old amp? If that's what you mean, its most likely copper. I've never seen a CCA signal wire. Its the power wire that you'd be most concerned with.

 

I have something going on at church tonight so it may take me a bit to look at those pictures, but I'll get to them eventually.

[Rick]

The manual should have a pinout diagram of the wires that tells you which one is which. I'm guessing by RCA wires you mean the ones that went to the old amp? If that's what you mean, its most likely copper. I've never seen a CCA signal wire. Its the power wire that you'd be most concerned with.

 

I have something going on at church tonight so it may take me a bit to look at those pictures, but I'll get to them eventually.

 

No worries, I need to study for my AP Finals anyway and install new anti-virus software. On my laptop it came with "Windows" Anti-Virus which ran out after a year, as of yesterday. Now it is NON-stop popping things up telling me my computer is at risk, that I have trojans bla bla bla. I find it hard to believe in one day this all would of happened, and a coincidence that my anti-virus software ran out, seems like a scheme for me to buy it but I may be wrong. Just going to install AVG 2012 edition that we bought but never got around to installing, otherwise I dont think I can take these constant pop ups anymore haha.

 

Yeah the manual states:Blue/White:Connect to system control terminal of the power amp or auto-antenna relay control terminal. Hmm..so that would be why my antenna that is broken powers on every time I turn the keys. Might read the manual in full, theres a lot I still dont even know about it, mainly the iPod controls through USB though.

[Garrett Powered]

my computer guy says to get Avast because AVG bogs down your computer now. not sure though, it may be that is just for the free version

[Rick]

my computer guy says to get Avast because AVG bogs down your computer now. not sure though, it may be that is just for the free version

 

I personally have always used AVG, if I still was as big of a nerd as I used to be I would know all the advantages and disadvantages of the different virus software...but I haven't touched a desktop in over a year and most of that information is long gone :\ On the plus side my Dad bought the family version so it's free, cant really complain lol.

 

Well, earlier it was nice out so instead of wiring in the day time I decided to fix the convertible top pin that flew out, I spent a good 15 minutes trying to get the C clamp to sit in a spot and not slide off the metal(two unever surfaces). Got frustrated, tryed to get out of the car while being frustrated and forgot I have a convertible...which means the seatbelt runs along the ground to the front, well I tripped in my nice express jeans right to mud. Better then concrete I suppose? Asked Dad to take a look, second try in under maybe 2 minutes at most he had it. Then the best part, my mom moved all my items I left on the ledge, one of them was an E-Clip which is probably lost, in the vacuum who knows. Run to lowes, get home. The E-Clip works. Sundown was right then, figured I would just do the wiring another day. Some reason I felt motivated to finish it at 8:30PM, pitch black out. None the less, got the wire spliced, connected it to the blue/white wire from the harness to the stereo and ran it through the dash, under the plastic piece on edge of door, through the back panel, and then behind the back seat into the trunk. Took roughly a hour and a half because there is a stripped wire on the plastic piece making running the wire more time consuming then necessary. Im sure doing it at night definitely didn't make it go any quicker. Im just happy all those wires are in the trunk and ready to be hooked up to the amp.

 

Im also not sure how I didnt notice there wasn't a memory card in the camera, but there wasn't. I put the card in tonight and will snap a few pictures tomorrow of the door, dash, and the wire install, I personally think it looks clean.