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Found 2,933 results

  1. Ok any of you that have owned a 60 degree V6 such as the 3100 or 3400 will be familiar with this tube, it runs from the rear valve cover to the intake tube just in front of the throttle body. If you are like me you have probably attempted Teflon tape and or RTV to keep the valve cover end in with not much luck. I have searched for a rubber grommet without success and for years it has just rested in place. Well at the beginning of the year I was working on a GAGT with a 3400 and came up with a nice solid airtight fix. This is what is getting replaced, don't throw it out just yet, you will need part of it. You will need that tube ^ 2. Permatex Ultra black RTV 3. 1 FT of PVC hose 19/32, this will be cut to fit approximately. 4. 1x FORD PVC elbow AutoZone P/N 47032 Tools include a hack saw or serrated cutting tool for cutting the factory tube without bending or breaking it, a file or sandpaper for removing a lip on the PVC elbow and something to cut the 19/32 hose, it also helps to have the ICM/coil pack assembly removed. First get your engine ready for the mod/repair by removing the ICM assembly(I will assume you the reader can do this in your sleep, if not consult your repair manual you NOOB!){this is a joke we all started somewhere} Next locate your purchased FORD elbow and proceed to remove this ONE lip. The one on the side pointing UP in the pic, the other end can be worked into the 19/32 hose for an airtight bond without anything. I used a file and enjoyed a cold beer while doing so. Also note the flat "washer" area of the elbow where my thumb is, this is where you put the RTV and fix it to the rear valve cover. Now once the elbow is filed and the other end in the hose find the original tube and cut off the elbow that fits into the air intake tube. You can make the cut exactly at the elbow. That part fits right into the 19/32 hose. Place your newly created assembly into the rear valve cover and eyeball where you need to make your cut at the intake tube, then RTV the Ford elbow to the rear vale cover and insert the other end into the intake tube then let the RTV cure for about an hour. Pretty self explanatory but feel free to ask any questions should they arise. Update after relocating images! After several months everything holds up quite nice. Ive removed the air intake tube several times since this and the rear valve cover end stay nice and secure.
  2. i'm gonna do one last suspension mod and that is put teh DOHC 34 mm bar in front....how do I do it? I can do the rear susp. in my sleep. The front....I know nothing about... I'm gonna do the engergy susp. poly bushings too
  3. So I have been trying to trace a front end clunk ever since I've had my 99 Regal and have yet to be successful at all. I realize that this is a common problem with a lot of 2nd gens so I'm starting a poll to see what the most common cause of clunking was. It seems like it does it whenever the car is cornering and it hits a bump or something. It's more noticeable when the car has more than just one person in it. It is driving me insane!!! So far I have replaced: -outer tie rod ends -all 4 struts, springs, and mounts -all 4 motor mounts -both front control arms with new ball joints and bushings. Did this twice, first with Moog, then with ACDelco parts thinking this was the culprit. -front sway bar with 34mm bar and polyurethane bushings. I have also greased the Intermediate Steering Shaft(ISS) multiple times because it seemed to help the first time. I cheaped out on the tie rods last time so now the next thing I'm gonna do is replace all 4 tie rods with Moog problem solvers and hopefully they'll last the rest of the life of the car. I'm contemplating replacing the subframe with an aluminum subframe and new subframe bushings. I'm also considering replacing the steering rack while I'm at it and switching out the ISS for a junkyard shaft. Any ideas? If you had this problem on your car and fixed it, please vote what the cause was.
  4. 1) Lloyd Ultimats from my 98 Regal. They are a full set of front & rear mats in the light gray color. The fronts have the Buick tri-shield logo embroidered. Some of the securing tabs are broken. $100 shiped 2) 2 sets of rear GM splash guards for 06 GP. They are used and have a good bit of scraping on the bottoms. Fit front and rear. $10 3) Trailblazer SS MAF sensor (used). $50 4) Stock 3.8" supercharger pulley (used). $5 5) MSP CAI with powerstack cone filter (used). $125 The best looking CAI, IMO. http://www.3800performance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=AI 6) Overkill Motorsports PCM left open for tuning (used). $125 7) ZZP 3" downpipe with spun cat and rear flange (necked down to 2.5") $175 can include O2 sensor extension harness
  5. FAQ section maybe????? can put up instaalling instruttions too, but real easy one youve gotten it out 1st off... i most likely missed alot of steps, and ill will add as questions are answered, ect ect ect...... and check my spelling later too IT IS possible to remove your transmission without removing the subframe Alright, since i recently replaced took the Transmission out of my car, ill explain what i did. (getrag 284 transmission) NOTE this was with a 5-speed transmission, and i DID NOT have to drop the whole Subframe 1. I started off by Removing the battery from the car/ and removed the drive side brace (felt it was easiest that way) and i removed the hood off the car for more room 2. I took all the lines off the turbo, and then used a 13mm (or 1/2") rachet wrench to remove the bolts from the downpipe (5 of them) and then the 4 on the x-over pipe. the turbo has to be removed to acess the transmission bolts. 3. i then took off my x-over because i decided to header wrap it up real nice to keep the engine cool everything else is already done so it was planned 4. jacked up the front of the car on the subframe and used an impact to remove the front tires 5. put jackstands (3) on the frame of the car (not the subframe on the driver side) 6. removed the brake calipier from the driver side front rotor. and tied it to the hood hinge 7. (driver side) removed/ seperated the ball joint from the control arm, and then remove the strut from the car by taking the 3 strut bolts off (1/2") from the strut tower 8. Drained the transmission fluid 9. unpluged all sensors ect on the transmission, and removed the shifter cables from the bracket. 10. put a jack stand under the tranny, left 1 bolt in the tranny slightly loosened and removed all the rest (18mm) 11. removed dogbones from the top of the engine, leaving them on the dogbone mounts 12. went back underneath and removed the bushings from the driver side., had it jacked right the control arm on the subframe 13. slowly lowered the jack and the engine and tranny went on a nice angle. 14. removed 4 bolts off the tranny mount 15. removed that last bolt on the tranny 16. pulled and pulled until the tranny finally break loose from the engine 17. slid the tranny out the wheelwell.
  6. I've had a couple PMs about this topic over this spring and summer. Since most convertible owners are getting the cars out of the garages. This was a new piece of NOS weather stripping about a year ago. They just don't last. So save your money and don't buy those E-bay NOS convertible weather strips. Figured I'd show how to fix this problem and give a lot of info on the way. I know this has been done before. No one has really done a complete write up on it. These are 1993+ Camaro/Firebird front window weather strips. You can buy these new or pull them at a local yard. There are several clips that hold these in place. Just put a flat screw driver down in between the window and the door and pry up. They should come off really easy. I paid 3 dollars for TWO of these at the local yard. You have plenty of material to do the job. There are clips that used to hold it onto the F-body car. I removed these so they weren't in the way. I took a flat head screwdriver and pried up on them and they came off. There are six rivets on this piece of weather stripping. I drilled them out to remove what they were holding. There are three of those metal bars on the back of the weather stripping. I removed so they would not be in the way of the window. You will need to remove the B pillar trim. It's about 6 screws. Have junk in the trunk? Remove it. To remove the piece of trim below the weather stripping, you will need to go in the trunk. There are three 9mm nuts that attach it to the car. The last one is a stretch. Once that is off you have a much better look at what your dealing with. You will need to drill out those rivets. Roll down the window! You do not want to let the drill bit hit the glass. I tossed in a rag in between the window and rivet. Raining outside. Tossed it up were it needs to go. The length of the factory weather stripping. Measure twice and mark your mark twice. Then drill once. Make sure it's in the right spot. You can see I have some rubber remaining in my drilled holes. I made sure I cleaned that out before I installed. That way you have a really nice fit and finish. Time for the pop rivet gun! Then pop in your new rivets. Now it's time to put the B pillar and trim back on. Old piece. New piece. And enjoy your new clean weather stripping. It looks a lot better than the old stuff.
  7. GOT2B GM

    Vert shirts

    Shirts / hats / jackets by gryfan
  8. I'm going to post here as well for easier searching. I was able to use the factory upper strut mount and bump stop by using some springs that have a 4 1/8" ID top and a 2 1/2" ID bottom. The springs are listed as "GM series" coil springs and are available from 250 to 600lb. The 250 and 300lb springs are 11" long. The 350lb and above springs are 10" long. The springs I used for my 1994 Cutlass Supreme Convertible were the springs rated at 300lbs /in. I ground down the factory upper spring isolator to make a tapered spacer (3/8" thick on one side and 1/8" thick on the other) to keep the spring parallel with the strut. Install the tapered spacer on the upper strut mount, then install the poly spring isolator and spring with thrust bearing, adjusting sleeve and nut. The guys at QA1 racing said to use never seize on the thrust bearing. I cut the bottom two rings off the bump stop. Parts List: (2) HAL-11HTBF300 springs $65.97 ea at summit racing (1) ENS-9-6101G Spring isolator $20.97 pr at summit racing. (1) HAL-7888-109 Thrust bearing kit $25.97 pr at summit racing. (2) COK-12452-H Coil over adjusting sleeve about $40/pr A1 Racing. (2) COK-12460 Coil over adjuster nut about $26/pr A1 Racing Total investment around $250 Wheels: 17X8 + 38 offset Tires: 255/45-17 Tire clearance at 1 3/4" drop. I've since went 2" drop and no tire rubbing on either the springs or the fenders yet. This is as low as I feel comfortable with so this is where I stop. 2" drop front. 2 1/2" drop rear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Ended up with another Gen 1 (not complaining). After my asshole roommate blew up the engine in my Mark VIII a friend gave me this... 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme coupe. Clearcoat is gone on the hood and tops of the fenders and front bumper. The passenger side body kit needs to be repainted as well. There is also minor damage to the passenger side from when the previous owners hit a deer. Not going to go crazy with the mods on this one until I get the title (should be in another 2 weeks). I do have a list of planned mods (mostly stuff I had done to my previous cutlass's... HUD, ATC, cleaning it up, ETC).
  10. RobertISaar

    Cheapish 5.25 recommendations

    so, the 5.25 4-way sony units I put in the MC in 2008ish were immediately crap, enough so that I sent the majority of the volume to the rear 6X9s just so I wouldn't have to listen to the front speakers lose all of their shit whenever something sub-150Hz came their way. the factory 5.25 were actually noticeably louder than what those were, along with not sounding like they were abused for years. so, I'm looking at stuff in the $30-40 range and I'm lost. I'm not going to deal with trying to place components in this car, there isn't anywhere I could place a tweeter and not have it look so out of place and still be effective at directing sound. I kind of doubt that i'll want/need them to be amplified to have at least the same apparent volume as the rears while sitting up front, so i'll probably end up with an inline cap("bass blocker") as a high-pass filter with whatever I end up with. so, $40 or less 5.25 composite speakers that aren't going to cause more aggravation than they're worth?
  11. So this door handle chromer in the Citation X-11 group on Facebook (not much further explanation needed really...) is telling me that there were 12 TGPs actually sold in Canada and they were available through 1991 instead of the GTP. Mind you, this is the same guy that says the THM-125 3 speed used in the Grand Prix was fully electronic. Also, the Corsica came with 5x115 hubs in front and 5x100 hubs in the rear. We got to talking TGPs because he bought the drivetrain from one. He lives in Canada. It's so funny that I had to share. Total door handle chromer - a person that thinks they know everything when in reality doesn't know half as much as they think they do.
  12. Someone put a video on Youtube concerning changing the front struts on a W-body. First one I've seen so far, and fairly well done. Only comment I'd make is that I personally used a bit of silicone grease to make the upper mount go back in properly. And not really sure if its necessary to drain the oil off. The theory presented, that leaving some oil to act as a coolant, is an interesting one (although not sure if its true!). If anyone has any doubts as to how easy the fronts are to change, watch that video, and any doubts should quickly dissipate.
  13. Just got my first w-body almost a week ago. It's a '99 GP se with the L32 engine option. 156K on the clock with a completly rebuilt tranny:biggrin: Got rid of my Toyota Land Cruiser and pulled the trigger on this one for $1,600. Replaced the front struts and mounts and will be doing a couple of checks on her to put her back up to snuff and hopefully do some upgrades. This car drives awesome. It reminds me so much of my last sports car!('85 IROC-Z) I had back in '99!!!! Times have changed and with a toddler and a 3mo old baby a sports car is not my best choice right now, but with this car I can play, have 4 doors, a huge trunk for the double stroller and I can upgrade!!!!! Have some sick thoughts about this car and hopefully I'll be able to do them as time progresses. Will be lurking and asking questions so please bear with me. Thanks and stay safe guys and gals... Marcos...
  14. Anyone have the part number for the front bar? Thanks
  15. [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: row1, bgcolor: #485165]I purchased the assembly from Rockauto Moog #513179 in May 2014 and it's bad already. I had one replaced by the dealer under warranty 4 years ago and it's still going strong. I'm getting the Moog part replaced under warranty, but for my future bearing needs I think I'll be using the dealer.[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [/TR] [/TABLE]
  16. darklotus42

    need help with cutlass stereo install

    okay so im putting a new HU in my 1995 cutlass with the uq3 6 speaker sytem. i got a sony cdx-gt705dx and i got the scosche gm035 wiring harness. i got everything wired up and first i try the set up without the factory amp connected. and only the front left speakers works and not very well...then i try with the amp connected and i get front left speaker working and only low end signal with lots of background noise in the two rears. front right speaker nvr comes on. i know that these speakers are wired all weird and the ohms are way over spec for this HU is there any easy way i can get these working with out having to rewire all the speakers? also should i keep the rear speakers wired up with both sets of connections or should i unplug one. is there a way i could rewire the factory amp plug to complete the speaker circuits normally?
  17. jake91

    Front end clunk 2003 GTP

    So as im sure a lot of you have seen on FB i have this clunk in the front of my car. The noise seems to originate on the passenger side. I happens one single time on every initial acceleration from a stop. It also happens intermittently over large bumps like gutters and speed bumps, and on rear rare occasions full lock turning.. This clunk is loud I've had a cd skip while playing once or twice Now this started right after a lot of suspension work. I replaced control arms, ball joints, swaybars, endlinks, and lowered the car. I did reuse the old struts and mounts as they were less than 30k miles and 2 years old, i also installed shorter dogbones to make sure the downpipe doesn't hit the swaybar (clunking happened before shorter dogbones so thats been ruled out). Ive had a inspection done on all the replacement part and they all seem to be installed and tightened correctly Motor mounts were replaced 2 years ago but were replaced with stock hydraulic mounts, and both cv axles are spewing grease, but both of those usually have different symptoms than what I'm experiencing. Let me know what you think Thanks Jake
  18. Hi, I am looking for a LOWER front valence in very good to Excellent condition. Putting it on a 1989 red TGP. Dont mind painting it of course. I just bought the car(was just delivered from Maine today). This is my first 'WANTED' ad that I have posted...so not sure if I can post my phone#
  19. I know it's a long shot, but just in case any of you guys hitting yards happen across them, I'm looking for a 3rd gen SPO front lip. They clip in (and maybe some double sided tape), and were available on the 06-08's with the special appearance package. They all can be had new, but I figure I'd throw this out there. There's also a rear bumper one, but that's secondary, still on my list though also there's a slightly different spoiler, but that's last on the list
  20. I just got the original boot. I have never used one so I am not really sure how it is suppose to fit. So I thought I would take some photos and get your opinions. The front of the boot to the interior made sense with the Velcro and 4 buttons. But the rear, I really have no idea. Thanks for any guidance!
  21. Hi everyone. I want to say thank you to all of you who have helped me directly and indirectly over the years with keeping my vehicles on the road. The reason for this thread is that I almost lost my family in an accident yesterday. Someone decided to blow through a stop sign and T-bone my car with 4 passengers and myself in it. We were all shaken up but my sister-in-law got the full brunt of the pickup. I tried to pound the gas to avoid him (Red Explorer) but it was too late. She was released from the hospital last night with no broken bones or internal injuries other than taking a 4000lb-plus-line-backer to the side. My girlfriend was in the front passenger seat is a bit beat up and her daughter was in the rear sitting on the hump with my cousin sitting behind me. I was doing 45kph down an incline and he was doing 20-30kph accelerating into me and the impact spun me 180* through the intersection. I may shit on GM products but I have to say that if it wasn't for the stance, fat arse and beefy build of this car (apparently there was a rollover last year with the same intersection in the same fashion). Things would be much worse. Take care everyone and thanks for everything. I am happy that I have family alive and well on both sides of the monitor. =) Cheers -Steve
  22. Hey anyone have any ideas why both dash speakers would quit working rear speakers work good is there a fuse that might control this or a possible wire that fell off .....its all stock and has never been tampered with ???? t
  23. The front bumper has quite a bit of damage on my GP and the hood also has a big spot that needs attention. In order to address this and hopefully add some "flair", I am going to plasti-dip some hood/bumper stripes. If I like them enough, I might paint them. I took some pictures of possible stripes and am looking for some input on what anyone thinks will look best or if anyone has any suggestions. There's a good amount of gouges in the middle of the bumper, but on the passenger side, some damage extends to around where the middle of "PONTIAC" would be, so I'm trying to cover as much of that as possible. Please look at the pictures and tell me what you think. I know the lines aren't perfect, but I'll make sure they are before I plasti-dip it.
  24. Ok new to the forum but not to the search feature. I can't seem to get a straight answer on gen 2 struts. I race this car on a 1/4 mile banked track and it rolls over on the right front sidewall bad. We are allowed 2 degrees of camber in the right front but the factory strut can't be modified. Will a second gen control arm and strut with knuckle work with my CV axle and subframe?
  25. Hey guys, so I went to a junkyard today and noticed that this '95 GP has 215/60R16 tires in the front, and 225/60R16 tires in the back. Is this how they came stock? My own '94 GP was this way when I bought it. Is it okay to run this setup? I've never owned a first gen so this is new to me. Thanks!
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