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Found 716 results

  1. This is my ride and recently toasted three speakers. Both rear and drivers door. Have replaced with Sony Xplod speakers but concerned the monsoon amp might do in this set. Any idea where the amp is located? Might bypass it and put in a new radio, my deck is loosing illumination! Mark Morgan
  2. As we discussed in the last thread regarding how much wattage you can run on a factory system, we noticed that our factory 105 amp alternators are not capable of producing enough power to feed a JL Audio 1000.1 amplifier, with wiring and the alternator being the two key issues. To resolve the alternator issue, there are, fortunately, factory replacement options that we can embrace. Fortunately for us, GM used the same mounting points for multiple alternators . The common CS130 and CS130D used in many of our cars can be replaced with the GM CS144 (or CS-144). The CS144 amplifier comes in varieties that produce from 140 amps to 200 amps, with supposedly a 250 amp model also available. These can typically be found in larger cars and SUVs. The following link will outline the available models: http://www.alternatorparts.com/cs130...uv_upgrade.htm If anyone is considering running over 500W of amplifier power, you will certainly need to consider upgrading your alternator. I will be doing more research in the next few days on which cars you can pull these alternators from at a junkyard for cheap. If anyone has any particular range of models off the top of your head, please list them.
  3. Long story short, I have a laptop that functions perfectly aside from having a battery that doesn't batter. To spare some details, I reinstalled a fresh XP copy, tweaked some things, and got centrafuse mostly running how I want (other than some plugins and codecs for video). I have about 12 seconds until complete hibernate from button push, and about 15 seconds from cold start out of hibernate until music starts. My hurdles are switching it on and off. My plans are to get a DC-DC laptop adapter that's the proper voltage and whatnot (about $14 online), and then wire a cigarette lighter in somewhere so that it's easily disconnected. I haven't rewired anything yet since it's cold, but I'll probably run a thicker power wire to a distribution block, and then run my amp and this off of it. So, with the power mostly planned, here's kind of the setup I'm going for: If I hardwire it with a DC-DC plug, and then just have something "push" the button after a few seconds (after crank), that would do 100% of what I need it to. Basically this turn key on power comes on, utilizing remote wire in the same manner as an amp? 5-10 second delay to allow voltage spike from crank, crank and start button press once started (doesn't have to involve the 500rpm thing, 5-10 seconds will do the same thing, just on a timer instead of an rpm signal) the issue will be going into hibernate, having it retain power for maybe 30 seconds before cutting off turn key off maintain power, button push 30 second delay cut all power I'm open to thoughts and ideas. I know I can buy something to do all this, but why spend over $50 for something I should be able to do for less than $20? I may solder in a secondary power button lead off of the original, so that I can basically run a remote button somewhere if I need to for testing purposes. My goal is to use this primarily as a carputer, but maintaining it's laptoppiness. for reference, it's a celeron 2.4ghz processor, with 700 some megs of ram, so plenty to run audio and some decent video OH! I almost forgot! My plans to start are to run a cd HU in the foxglove, and maintain stock speaker setup, and just run this into the aux jack for now, so the only issue with this is finding the happy medium of two separate volume controls. And then of course I'll run a touchscreen in the stock HU location. I thought about putting it where the DIC is, but it's gonna be too difficult I think with the shifter
  4. Does anyone know the size and thread pitch of the bolt on the rear side of the LQ1 alternator? The one that goes through the bracket on the back of it... When I pulled my alt, the bolt was missing...
  5. okay so im putting a new HU in my 1995 cutlass with the uq3 6 speaker sytem. i got a sony cdx-gt705dx and i got the scosche gm035 wiring harness. i got everything wired up and first i try the set up without the factory amp connected. and only the front left speakers works and not very well...then i try with the amp connected and i get front left speaker working and only low end signal with lots of background noise in the two rears. front right speaker nvr comes on. i know that these speakers are wired all weird and the ohms are way over spec for this HU is there any easy way i can get these working with out having to rewire all the speakers? also should i keep the rear speakers wired up with both sets of connections or should i unplug one. is there a way i could rewire the factory amp plug to complete the speaker circuits normally?
  6. My headlights were dimming with my sub (500W RMS) and the battery cables were hacked when I bought it because I think a battery had exploded previously. I changed my cables to 4 ga and added a wire from the alternator to the fuse panel. It charges well (usually around 15.1V), but it was still dimming. I changed the wires out to 1/0 gauge and added one from the alternator to the battery. The chassis ground, I ran a wire directly from the top post (I use the side posts for the other cables except the amp cable). The lights don't dim as much and it charges up to 15.3V (15.5V is the upper limit for this car from what I read), but I am now getting the Battery Save Active display on the DIC. From what I read, it's supposed to do that if the voltage is low, but that's certainly not the case. It does jump around a lot on the DIC, but reads steady 14.7V at the battery. Anyone know why this would be happening? Nothing seems to suffer.
  7. Hey guys im having a issue with the car, car just died taking off from the gas station and i got no spark. I got a crankshaft Sensor and im trying to figure out where it is but we checked fuses and i noticed a fuse in spot 10 which is 15 AMP IGN ( Under hood fuse box) keeps blowing everytime i go to crank after i replaced it. Any ideas on what it could be besides possible bad wiring? I got no idea what the fuse is tied to.
  8. Hi guys, im new to the forums just got a 99 GTP supercharged Beautiful car needs alil work runs and drives fine just need some bodywork a motor mount and supercharger coupler. Got her stupid cheap. Would you believe the guy sold it to me for 500 bucks? Anyways, back to subject I bought the car with no head unit in it guy said wasnt working when he bought it. I put in an oem cd player from my grand am gt and radio is fine but no sound out of speakers. I noticed there were alot of speaker wires in the dash and under the carpet to the trunk area. I noticed he did have an aftermarket headunit in the and he wired the speakers individually to bypass the bose oem amp but the speakers are all connected to amp and harness to the radio is it possible the amp is bad is why i have no sound. How do i know the amp is working or on? The fuses are all good in glove box are there more i need to check?
  9. 1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 2 door. So, I open my passenger side door and the fuse panel on the dashboard is exposed, the piece of cardboard that have been glued on, fell off. Not my doing, but the previous owners. I discover the following fuse/wire issue. Does anyone have any idea why someone would do this? My gut is telling me this isn't safe, but I'm worried that if I disconnect it, my car won't start or something catastrophic will happen. Those wires are hooked into the only 25amp fuses on that particular panel. The wires run down into the dash and I can't see where they go from there. Thanks in advance for any information/suggestions/guesses.
  10. Hey.... So I am SICK of my current crap. To listen to the radio, I have to have the cassette player fast forwarding. It also has an awful background noise, but only when the engine is running. Results in a headache in 2.5 seconds. I have switched out the alt, no avail. I was told it was likely the amp....... 1.) Where is the amp, how do I fix it and/or what do I replace it with? 2.) Cassette player holder is stuck in the down position, how to fix? 3.) Anyone have the link handy for hooking up a 3.5mm jack to hook up a phone or iPod or something? I would enjoy this car 500% more if I could listen to something other than static/humming/hissing/whining
  11. today i was listening to some music on my sub power acoustik mofo 152x dual 2ohm voice coil wired to 1ohm and i started to hear a scratching noise so i figured i blew a voice coil but when i do a ohm reading on the wires going to the amp i still have a 1.3ohm resistance is there by chance that the voice coil windings are just coming off the tube and scratching the motor but still reading correct?
  12. We have a Delphi radio diagram for a 2004 Chevrolet impala but position B2 has no wire (supposed to be a yellow ignition wire 12V). We have a 12v orange wire hot off a 15amp fuse. Also have switch 12 V out white wire position B3. Missing 12V ignition source ignition/on. Please advise.
  13. Okay so I have being searching alot through all this forum about my factory bose system I have in my car. I really havent found the right answer as to what came with it. My car is a 1991 lumina z34 and I have speakers in the dash, in the doors and in behind the back seats. I have heard that the lumina z34 that came with the bose units eliminated the dash speakers. Well besides that I have a problem with it as well. The sound that comes out of them is like if the antenna is trying to find signal but my antenna is intact and there is absolutely no bass in them whatsoever. While driving or accelerating the sound goes higher but could sound really low at times as well. Distorted and muffled and just sound like crap really. Do you guys think my HU is toast or my amp?
  14. defflepp1

    BOSE stereo

    so i FINALLY got my 94 lumina running so now i can start to address some of the smaller problems. the biggest one at the moment is no radio. it has the BOSE stereo(amp underneath rear deck) the head unit works but I'm not getting any sound. so I'm trying to figure the best way to fix it. first thought was checking fuses, however i don't have the owners manual and can't find a fuse chart. if someone can post that i would greatly appreciate it if that does work i was thinking to try and replace the bose amp with an aftermarket one, using the factory wiring. is that possible? and obviously the last option would be to put an aftermarket head unit in the run all new wiring. if anyone has any advice i would greatly appreciate it
  15. Searched this forum but got no hits that helped. Home audio I understand. Car audio is a mystery to me. Have a single popped front speaker in my '92 Lumina Euro 3.4. No continuity through the voice coil. Original Delco AM/FM/Cassette in-dash unit. Speaker is apparently a 4 X 6 (2.5" depth) driver with whizzer cone, rated at 9.5 ohms according to the ink-stamp on the magnet assembly. I'm guessing the original Delco in-dash unit will wet it's pants when faced with a 4-ohm load. Other than grabbing another W-body speaker at the Treasure Yard, is there an aftermarket speaker pair that will: Sound at least as good as the OEM GM speaker Not blow up the OEM receiver/cassette deck Fit in the original plastic housing without hassle Preferably connects to the OEM wiring harness (I'll consider an adapter if needed.) Every aftermarket 4 x 6 speaker I see on Amazon lists 4-ohm impedance, or doesn't list the impedance, or has greater than 2.5" depth. [EDIT] The original speaker is much more shallow than 2.5 inches. More like 1.5 inches from magnet to mounting flange.[/EDIT]
  16. The volume knob on my JVC is acting up and I don't have my SWC's programmed properly and I want a new h/u for the Regal. I'm also having problems with my iPod again, so I'm looking for alternative methods for playing my music library. Also, I've been wanting a DVD since I got the car anyway. I had an Archos before, but it was way too slow, would freeze a lot and I had to return it defective a few times and I don't think that has changed. I bought a SanDisk Clip+ and loaded Rockbox on it and I can use that with my USB (high-power USB would definitely help), but am limited to 64GB without changing the SD card and I like to have all my music on my device so , but I can always keep the other cards in my wallet or something, which isn't ideal for me. Okay, so my JVC will only recognize the internal memory on the Clip+ and not the expandable, so hopefully the new one will. I also got an external usb-powered hard drive, formatted it to FAT32 and put my music on it, but I understand that even if the h/u reads it, it may take hours to load it up before I can use it, but I would like to get one that can read it. My current h/u cannot. Either way, I have it on a portable drive that I can hook up to any computer and it's small enough. What I'm also looking for is something that displays the folders and files on the USB like the one in my dad's GMC does and I can't find anything information so far about one that does so. Also, I would like for it to have Pandora and iPod control (if I ever get the fucker working), which most units have anyway. Some have MirrorLink, too, but my S4 isn't supported right now, only the S3. Front and rear USB is preferred, but not completely necessary and I'll be hooking up an amp for the front stage and for the sub, so I need sub output and front/rear and would like them to be of decent voltage. I need something that I can use my SWI-Jack for SWRC, too. I would like to keep it under $400 and would like to use my amazon store card. If anyone can help, I would greatly appreciate it. The main thing is if anyone knows a DVD (or maybe even a CD) h/u that displays folders and files of USB thumb drives.
  17. I'm in the middle of my amp and 6x9 install in my 96gtp. I was wondering how to get the carpeted part off of the rear deck, so I can install my aftermarket 6x9s. Thanks Sent from my MB886 using Tapatalk
  18. Did a few searches on the forum to see if anyone really knew about high output alternators on here. I've seen people mention swapping and doing a little bit of work to make them all good. So I figured I'd let you know my favorite place. They sell standard and high output alternators for many types of vehicles (as well as starters, bushings, gauges, etc..). The website is http://www.dbelectrical.com . I bought a 220 amp alternator and it bolted on with no problems. I've actually had it for about 2 years and never had a problem. Only reason I have it is because of my sound system and my lighting upgrades (no, nothing under the unibody). Prices are very affordable as well. The 220 for most w-bodies is just under $300. I paid about $50 for shipping and had it in a week. It's a heavy beast too.
  19. Hello, i can't seam to get tach to read, I have resoldered the board everything else works. Analog tach, oil, and amp. Digital mph, odometer,and fuel. I am sure there is a write up but am having trouble finding it. does anyone have any ideas? thanks
  20. sanyom9990

    Any help?

    [video=facebook;10151897915441173]https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151897915441173&l=1148040197380487677 link:https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10151897915441173&l=1148040197380487677 3100 sfi L82 194k making strange noises while warm or cranking
  21. This is for the normal GM plug, usually found in 88+ GM vehicles. This doesn't apply to the GM 32 pin, but I will post that info tomorrow. These wire colors are pretty much universal through the GM vehicles. BE SURE TO TEST YOUR WIRES. W-BODY.COM NOR I ARE RESPONSIBLE IF YOU FRY SOMETHING. Orange = 12v Constant/Battery Yellow = 12v Switched/ACC Black = Ground Gray = dimmer ground Brown = Parking lights Tan = Left front + Gray = Left front - Lt. Green = Right front + Dk. Green = Right front - Brown = Left rear + Yellow = Left rear - Dk. Blue = Right rear + Lt. Blue = Right rear - If you have the Monsoon or Bose system, you will need to tap into the amp turn on lead. The harness's that you buy do not have these leads, so you will need to tap behind the plug. Generally, the wire colors for the amp turn on lead are Pink or Dark Green. You can test with an inline fuse holder and wire. Connect one end to the amp turn on lead on your aftermarket deck (99% of the time blue or blue/white), and strip back a bit of the Pink or Green wire, and connect this end to it. If you hear sound, your in luck. No sound, keep checking. But, be sure to use the inline fuse holder. I generally use a 5 amp fuse for testing purposes, and replace with a 10 amp fuse once I have found the correct wire. Heres a picture for an example:
  22. I want to keep the factory cd/cassette radio with the steering wheel controls in my Cutlass Coupe. I really like the stock look, but I definately want to upgrade how the stock crappy system sounds. Obviously I want new speakers, but I want some more power too. Can an amp be mounted in the trunk, routed to the factory head unit, and work ok? I don't want to get crazy with subs, and additional speakers. I just want it to look stock inside the car, but sound a bunch better. Any thoughts on speakers?
  23. Hello all-- '94 Cutlass Supreme convertible with factory radio with cd player. Previous owner replaced the rear 6.5" speakers with something unknown and "better"... They must use up more juice because it doesn't seem balanced unless I have the radio controls heavily to the rear. Even so, with the top up I need to have the volume up 3/4 of the way for it to sound adequate. The sound quality is iffy at best and the CD player doesn't work. It definately needs to go. Limitations: Based on posts I've read here, I understand the factory alternator will not tolerate more than a 500W amp. I don't intend on getting into any bass competitions and I don't need to wake up the neighbors. I just want to be able to hear the radio and have decent sound quality. It's the 3.4DOHC and I also understand that alternator replacement is not easy...I don't want to get into that right now. What I have to work with: Years ago I bought a sound system I intended on putting into another vehicle and never got around to it. It includes two 10" Pioneer subwoofers, two Rockford-Fosgate T142C 4" cones, two pioneer 6x9 TSA6980R rear speakers, a Aiwa CDC X504MP deck and a 1000W Pioneer GM5000T amp. I was thinking of using the amp and one of the subwoofers for this setup. Not sure what the front speaker size is....obviously the 6x9's won't work. Should I piece something together out of this mess? Or, can someone reccomend a respectable setup that won't break the bank (or fry my alternator)? Thanks all, Scotty
  24. We've got the good ol' base model LE 92 Grand Prix and there's one in the local boneyard with the optional tach/voltage/oil gauge cluster. Our odometer is dead anyways and our shift indicator doesn't work so I have good reason to swap it for a replacement. Wonder if (as with other cars I've had) the cluster just swaps out and works (as it's prewired) or would I have to wire all sorts of stuff and add sensors?
  25. So i'm looking to upgrade my interior on my 1993 Z34. I've seen it done where the seats are installed, but I don't know if the power hooks up, but I want to confirm. Is there a power plug under the seats to hook up power seats or not? Also, can I tap into the blue/white wire on the stereo to make the factory amp run with an aftermarket deck? Any help appreciated!
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