Addicted To Boost Posted May 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 It broke off right where the o-ring sits, and I did get the o-ring out, so there should be nothing holding it in there really. I just have nowhere to grab the rest of the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 My stock one came out of the motor just like it was new. 126k miles. strange how these things have problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Mine has 223k on it, and been living in a very hot and very dry climate for the last 18 years.. May or may not have something to do with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 29, 2009 Report Share Posted May 29, 2009 Doh. forgot this is a high mileage car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Â I went and fought with it for a good 4 hours this afternoon. I tried heating a very coarse thread screw red-hot and sticking it in there.. Then I tried threading it into the sensor.. and a combination of both with no luck. Â Question: If I had a cherrypicker to support the engine, and I dropped the frame cradle and dropped the engine oil pan, can I access the CKP from inside the engine? Or is the crankshaft completely in the way? Â Any other ideas? I really want to keep this car, but I'm running out of ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Do you have an engine lift at your disposal??? pull the motor. drill and screw it out. replace... reinstall motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 No, but I bet I can mingle with the local clubGP members and find one I bought the car from a former CGP member. I'm saving the engine lift for last resort, I'd like to get the sensor out without pulling the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 jack the car up, put it on jack stands  support the engine w/ a jack, lower the cradle, then lower the engine as needed to reach the sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Can I reach the sensor from inside the engine, or is the crankshaft in the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AWeb80 Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 not sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Ride Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I believe when the mechanic who was working on my old car broke the crank position sensor off that he took the oil pan off and got it out that way. Might be easier, good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy K Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 only TWO ways for a totally borked sensor to be removed... from the outside or from the inside. Â inside requires removal of the oil pan. the sensor can them be pushed out or broken apart until nothing is left. Â outside... requires extraction of the sensor reminants. I want to try this first... since pulling a 3.1 is really not that hard: drain coolant system and remove all hoses remove radiator remove downpipe bolts remove starter drop a/c compressor and ziptie to radiator support (or detach A/C line if discharged) remove flexplate cover (if present) loosen and remove flexplate to coverter bolts unfasten engine harness from body and c100 connector, ziptie it and the ecm on top of motor disconnect throttle, fuel, and vacuum hoses. remove driver's side mount bolts support transmission by pan remove bellhouse bolts lift! Â something like that. remind me to do that next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted May 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Alright, I may have to try to get it out from the inside then. Â Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 A couple buddies and I are going to use their engine hoist and pull the subframe and oil pan off to get it out. We'll see how soon it happens, as I'm going back to MN on Saturday for 3 weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5speedz34 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I would yank the motor.....messing with the subframe will cost you an alignment and getting it loose from the control arms or balljoints won't be fun IMO. Â If you can replace the knock sensor also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Get some gorilla tape and see if you get it to stick to the flat part of the sensor on the outside of the engine. Gorilla tape is some pretty sticky shit. Or maybe fabricate a little handle out of JB weld, stick it to the broken sensor, let it get hard, and pull it out. I have no idea what this looks like so I'm just spitballin'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 The sensor is snapped off half an inch inside the block. Tape is not going to work here. Â I already tried getting a sheetmetal screw red hot and sticking it in and pulling it out, and that didn't work either. That sucker is STUCK in there. The motor will have to be pulled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 The sensor is snapped off half an inch inside the block. Tape is not going to work here. Â I already tried getting a sheetmetal screw red hot and sticking it in and pulling it out, and that didn't work either. That sucker is STUCK in there. The motor will have to be pulled. Â All I can say is good luck then. Christ that sucks. Makes me wonder about my CPS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 The sensor is snapped off half an inch inside the block. Tape is not going to work here. Â I already tried getting a sheetmetal screw red hot and sticking it in and pulling it out, and that didn't work either. That sucker is STUCK in there. The motor will have to be pulled. Â What about the JB weld or some other epoxy, the only trick there would be to spray the shit out of it with degreaser and make sure it's as clean as possible first. You said something about coming back up to MN, I would try JB'ing something to it. Clean it up really good, apply the stuff really thick (careful not to get it where the sensor and block meet), and go to MN. When you come back, try and get it out. It should be set up really good by the time you get back. It can't hurt, unless you get it where the block and sensor meet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertISaar Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 how about a small chisel and hammer? i'm not sure how it looks at this point... Â and do you happen to have one of those seal pullers for removing the metal band from the tranny filter after you remove it, it might work... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tornado_735 Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 The sensor is snapped off half an inch inside the block. Tape is not going to work here. Â I already tried getting a sheetmetal screw red hot and sticking it in and pulling it out' date=' and that didn't work either. That sucker is STUCK in there. The motor will have to be pulled. [/quote'] Â What about the JB weld or some other epoxy, the only trick there would be to spray the shit out of it with degreaser and make sure it's as clean as possible first. You said something about coming back up to MN, I would try JB'ing something to it. Clean it up really good, apply the stuff really thick (careful not to get it where the sensor and block meet), and go to MN. When you come back, try and get it out. It should be set up really good by the time you get back. It can't hurt, unless you get it where the block and sensor meet. Â Hell, I fixed a gaping hole in the side of my transmission on my Land Rover with JB weld. That stuff is the bomb! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Meh I'm done with messing around with it. I'm pulling the motor when I get back to AZ. That will give me a chance to clean my engine bay and powertrain anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w-bodys_are_the_best Posted June 6, 2009 Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Meh I'm done with messing around with it. I'm pulling the motor when I get back to AZ. That will give me a chance to clean my engine bay and powertrain anyway Better throw a 282 in there while you're at it then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted To Boost Posted June 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2009 Meh I'm done with messing around with it. I'm pulling the motor when I get back to AZ. That will give me a chance to clean my engine bay and powertrain anyway Better throw a 282 in there while you're at it then If I can find one... there's supposedly a 91 CS International with a 284 in a Phoenix salvage yard... I'll have to see if Manic has any updates on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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